Dayton Um18 - Jtr s1 - Harbottle audio m18vs
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2021
- *recorded by phone but did not work out the way i wanted it to, sorry for the bad video*
dayton audio um-18 in flat back 4 cube sealed box, JTR s1 in its sealed box and the harbottle audio M18vs in its sealed box.
audio was turned off for video at the end for copyright reasons.
JTR is powered by its speaker power sp2400 amp, the dayton and harbottle both off 1 channel on a NX6000 amp so they were sealing equal power.
Now this is how subwoofer reviews should be done. Very nice job. Showing drivers/boxes and the driver movements. Very well done indeed.
Thank you! Much appreciated
The best subwoofer is not the one that rattles and shake your whole room but it’s the one that gives precise bass without distortion
That’s why it’s best to pick a LDLC drivers! But there’s tons of options out there. There is no such thing as “the best”
@@thebrowncinema Bass is the thing that is personal preference some might like loud and some prefer only kick in when needed
@@thebrowncinemawell yea, I mean, the difference between like a $300 Ultimax 18 and a like a $5000 Harbottle, or however much it costs. I mean, 🤷🏻♂️
I enjoyed this , Great video .
Awsome video! Looking forward to hearing your thoughts of the sound quality and what one gives the most lowest frequency and what one you feel more
I’ve played with them a bit but in the middle of some things so it may be a few weeks!
Just ordered eight of the Ultimax 18". I got one awhile back and did distortion measurements on it, it's a fantastic driver.
That’s awesome! What are your plans? All sealed or ported? 8 of them will be a ton of output!
@@thebrowncinema I have this grand plan of building a manifold system in the attic and making them infinite baffle... however, that's probably going to be too much work so more likely they will be in large sealed boxes instead. I'll use miniDSP to EQ them and probably only use them for about 25 Hz and below. I'll use multiple MCM 15" woofers in open baffle for 25 Hz to 80 Hz.
8??? Wow! Would an 18" Dayton sealed compare to a ported Svs or Monolith?
@@justinmanny86 I haven't tried the SVS or Monolith but I'm not a big fan of ported subs. To me the best quality bass is open baffle, 2nd best Infinite baffle, 3rd sealed, and ported is a distant 4th. I recently put in an additional four 18" Ultimax's so now there are twelve in the room. I suspect they could do structural damage if I really pushed them.
I like the Harbottle Audio driver the most just based off of looks. Looks sexy.
It’s a really nice driver! My first ever with a neo magnet. It’s so light in weight!
Hi Brown Cinema, the um-18 box from the tour you did like 5 months ago looks different to this (the one in this video is asymmetrical). Did you dismantle the previous one? Also, can you please share the dimensions of the previous one? I want to make one that's symmetrical at the front baffle
That’s correct the one in this video is the parts express flat pack. The one from previous video was a custom one I made for the dimensions that worked for me. I actually built 2 new boxes that I will be doing a video of soon!
@@thebrowncinema awesome, I have modelled the um-18 on winISD and I'm comfortable with anything between 5cuft to 6.5... but I don't want to use parts express flat packs because of that asymmetry hahah. What made you change to this one?
@@DesmondKarani I run 4 cube after displacement for my sealed subs. I just built 2 modified some what full Marty’s. They are 11cubes tuned to 11hz. I’m painting them tomorrow so will make a video of them very soon.
@@thebrowncinema Was the front baffle triple baffled or duo baffle in the previous DIY? It looked sleek with the UM a bit recessed
@@DesmondKarani they are all double baffled. The jtr was the only triple baffle
Oh heck yeah!
Nice video which is the best choice for a home cinema and playing music?
Out of those my favourite was the harbottle. The um18 is a good driver don’t get me wrong. The jtr is good also but being an older model and not able to turn off the built in dsp sucked and that’s why I sold it. The harbottle sounded amazing but like the um18 you need to pair it with an amplifier
So they are all good, these are a bit expensive for me I'm getting 2 spl 150 they should be a big upgrade from the r 120 SW the rear ported ones
@@glengatt3941 yes in their own way.
Would be awesome to see how the ultimax compares to the other, much more expensive subwoofers. I'm thinking about getting the another sealed sub such as the harbottle to pair with my SVS PB-13 Ultra (running in sealed mode).
The um18 can keep up. It will just run out of steam before the others. The more expensive drivers have more xmax and low distortion. So the um18 will start to compress while the other drivers will keep going. If your going to do multiple subs then I like to recommend the um18. But if your looking for something powerful and only can do 1 or 2 subs the harbottle is an amazing sub!
I do have 2 of my um18’s in porter boxes now that I will be showing in a video soon!
@@thebrowncinema thanks for the note. I was thinking about pairing a UM18 with my SVS in hopes of getting a more even response in the room and some more tactile response. Ive hearn pairing a ported sub with a sealed can create some issues so maybe doing 2 UM18s instead and selling my SVS would be a better option.
@@garethmorris2042 it can be tricky. I mix porter and sealed but I’m using the same drivers so it’s a little easier. Budget wise you can do 2 um18’s sealed and an amp for pretty cheap compared to many others. Just make sure to use a minidsp to tune the subs!
@@thebrowncinema so would you recommend 1 harbottle over 2 um18's?
And when you say it will compress do you mean in the low frequencies or at higher spl?
@@Techdiscussed in that case I would prob get 2 um18’s If there was no plan on getting a 2nd harbottle. For the price of the harbottle I can build 2 um18’s. So the more cone area will win plus the bonus of being able to have 2 subs in 2 different locations. The um18 will compress in spl.
So.. which of the 3 is loudest, cleanest, lowest response? Same power going in? Best bang for buck?
Tough question kind of lol. The jtr’s amp had a built in house curve that I couldn’t turn off. The amp would clip easily also, not sure why maybe boosted to much. Bang for the buck would have to be the Dayton 100%. But I tell people that ask me, If you had to buy 1 sub and only use 1 sub. The harbottle is amazing! I use it on my main floor off 400watts and it rocks (in the future I’ll get the speaker power 2400 amp for it). But if you want to do multiple subs and on a budget, then the um18’s is where it’s at. I’ve actually changed it up a bit since this video and I’ll be doing a new video soon just been super busy!
Great video. I'm looking forward to hearing the comparison. One thing that is very different between the three subs is the ability of the 18vS to be crossed over up in the 100 to 200 Hz range with the mains.
That’s a good idea. I should run sweeps up to 250hz and see how they do! I always ran them but only checked to 120hz.
What model did you like best
Sorry for the late replay. I don’t always get notifications when someone comments.
I personally like the harbottle the best. Not to say the other 2 are bad. But I do enjoy the harbottle more!
@harbottleaudio
Hi there.i built a full dual marty x2 with um18 (custom)
But now I'm planning to try out sealed.
I'm not after high spl or super lows just the cleanest sounding over all. Is it Worthing trying x2 um18 sealed?.
Yes I think so. I preferred the sound of sealed from them. I used multiple so I still got tons of low bass. But I would say it’s worth trying out for sure!
@@thebrowncinema thank you. Yeah my old setup were dual 15 paradigm and liked the sealed sound. Can't imagine what an 18 sealed will do. Can't wait to start build.
What measurements did you use?
@@almiragustin2262 mine were close to a 21” cube. I just made them 4 cft. But to be able to fit under my screen.
@@thebrowncinema what's your opinion on copying jtrs2 but running um18x2? Dual 18's
@@almiragustin2262 I tried to sim them on winisd once but got a weird response as I was thinking of doing that. Better off making them singles and stacking them. That way if you ever want to change it up they are already single subs
where can i find the specs of JTR RS1 driver? I would like to buy that driver and build a custom closed box, drive it with an external amplifier (I have to figure out which one to put) and give all the parameters with the Trinnov Altitude processor, do you think it is possible to get such a setup and it sounds great?
For sure. This was the s1 so the older model from the rs1. The rs1 is built by jtr as far as I know. You can contact them to see if you can buy the driver but not sure if they would do that. You can look into stereo integrity for drivers or harbottle audio. They sell raw drivers. For amps look into speaker power. That’s who jtr uses for their subs. Big power from plate amps.
Im looking at doing the same. You would need to hunt for a Behringer Inuke nu12000 dsp it is 2500 watts rms 2 ohm stable. That thing will run a pair of the Neo 3.7's.
@@TheWaheed233 ahh yes that’s correct they were using fi drivers. I’m not sure if they still do or not though.
But I know the stereo integrity drivers would be easy to get. Then choose an amp or choice. Simbossen, speaker power, something that makes lots of power. Might be had to find that behringer though
@@thebrowncinema Fi drivers are still being used they are updated versions with a different magnet.
Anyway nice video I enjoyed watching it.
Which would you say sounds the cleanest?
@@TheWaheed233 ahh that’s good to know! I wonder if fi would sell those drivers then.
The harbottle I felt was the cleanest.
The jtr I felt was a bit at a slight disadvantage as I couldn’t take their in house “tune” off the amp. The jtr was still very clean but when I tried to push both hard the jtr would clip easily in my setup. I ended up selling it for that reason as I didn’t want to purchase a new amp or send it off. I’m still debating an amp for the harbottle but leaning towards a speaker power plate amp
Harbottle only used wood screws? What the FUCK?
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