You’ve done a great job on this guitar, I’m going to be looking at your video again when I’m ready to finish my third guitar... thanks for posting this...
The most consideration is how many coats applied and the thickness of each coat. 320 Is a bit course for final sanding. Too easy to break through or leave enough for continued sanding and polishing. Nice to leave some for later in case you need to remove a scratch
How many coats of lacquer did you put on the guitar, before you sanded with the 320 grit, what is the LUBRICANT you use! Did you go right to the 1000 grit and not use any lacquer after the first use of 320 grit? Did you put another coat of lacquer on the guitar AFTER you totally finished??
I sprayed it about 15 times, but keep in mind that my "coat" may be different than someone else's. The viscosity of the lacquer, the setting of the nozzle, the type of gun, and the speed at which the gun is moved all effect how much lacquer is deposited in a "coat." I use mineral spirits as the lubrication. After 320 grit I move to 400, then 600, finally 1000. No, I don't spray any more lacquer after sanding and buffing. Thanks for watching.
Good video demonstration, thanks. How would you go about removing micro bubbles that formed on the tip of the headstock of an electric guitar as a result of a drop that was touched by my finger. I was thinking of this being the last layer before final sanding and budding. Is it possible to make a decent enough “repair” job without accidentally damaging the metalic colour under the oil based polyurethane lacque? Thx
I don't know how to work with polyurethane. If it were nitrocellulose, I would sand lightly then spray one or two very thin coats-- mostly thinner, notch lacquer.
I don't think 500 grit would be aggressive enough to level the lacquer.. The finer grits of sandpaper remove the scratches of the coarser grits, so by the time I start buffing, I am only dealing with the finest grit I used, which is generally 1000. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for the compliment. No, I don't sand between coats because the solvents in the lacquer cause the newest spray to melt into the previous layers. Technically, there is only one coat of lacquer on the guitar since all of the separate sprays melt together into one continuous film, unlike urethane finishes where the coats remain mostly separated from one another. However, this probably isn't the answer you are hoping to see. I pass my spray gun over the guitar 12 to 20 times, depending on how the film builds. Bear in mind that there is no standard measure for each of these "coats." The amount of lacquer that gets onto the guitar with each spray depends on a number of variables including how much I thin the lacquer, before spraying it, the size of the spray pattern, how much I open the nozzle on the gun, and how fast I move my hand as I am spraying.
@@zimnickiguitars311 Thank-you for your generous reply and your work is absolutely beautiful :) Do you have a target thickness of the completed finish?
@@kedocom No, I don't. I try to keep the finish as thin as possible without sanding or buffing through it. Having been doing this for so many years has taught me how to recognize when I have put on enough lacquer. I honestly don't know how thick the finish is when I am done.
@@zimnickiguitars311 I sprayed a drum with about 15 to 20 coats of nitro. I had some corks filling the holes that I then removed. They were flush with the rest of the drum, so I was not getting edge build up on them. I carefully sliced the lacquer from the cork fillers and miced them. Turns out that after the flash off and shrink back after 4 weeks (and nitro does shrink back pretty significantly as you know) the measured thickness was about .005". That's 5 thousands of an inch. A piece of copier paper is .003" After sanding and buffing, I would guess I dropped it to about .003" or .002". Pretty thin. But oh so pretty. Sanding is great because you are removing material evenly. If one tried to just buff, the finish would not be as even and the danger of buff thru is higher. Heat build up when buffing is a concern for the less experienced buffer. Cool video.
I usually use Stewmac nickel silver fret wire. I like the kind that is 0.050" tall and either 0.080 or 0.100" wide, depending on the guitar being fretted.
You’ve done a great job on this guitar, I’m going to be looking at your video again when I’m ready to finish my third guitar... thanks for posting this...
Thank you very much!
It really does look gorgeous!!😊
Thank you!
Sweet guitar and thanks for showing how to sand and buff lacquer. I wasn't sure if you could.
Thanks for watching
Love the BRW....beautiful work, Gary😎
Thank you, Chuck
Great job, Gary.
Thanks Rob. It was fun learning to use the software.
The most consideration is how many coats applied and the thickness of each coat. 320 Is a bit course for final sanding. Too easy to break through or leave enough for continued sanding and polishing. Nice to leave some for later in case you need to remove a scratch
Great results!
Thank you!
And thanks for watching.
Some Swingin' buffing dance ya got there fella!!
Thanks. I've been rehearsing it for many years.
How many coats of lacquer did you put on the guitar, before you sanded with the 320 grit, what is the LUBRICANT you use!
Did you go right to the 1000 grit and not use any lacquer after the first use of 320 grit?
Did you put another coat of lacquer on the guitar AFTER you totally finished??
I sprayed it about 15 times, but keep in mind that my "coat" may be different than someone else's. The viscosity of the lacquer, the setting of the nozzle, the type of gun, and the speed at which the gun is moved all effect how much lacquer is deposited in a "coat."
I use mineral spirits as the lubrication.
After 320 grit I move to 400, then 600, finally 1000. No, I don't spray any more lacquer after sanding and buffing.
Thanks for watching.
Good stuff!
Thanks Jeff!
Good video demonstration, thanks. How would you go about removing micro bubbles that formed on the tip of the headstock of an electric guitar as a result of a drop that was touched by my finger. I was thinking of this being the last layer before final sanding and budding. Is it possible to make a decent enough “repair” job without accidentally damaging the metalic colour under the oil based polyurethane lacque? Thx
I don't know how to work with polyurethane. If it were nitrocellulose, I would sand lightly then spray one or two very thin coats-- mostly thinner, notch lacquer.
Have you ever thought about starting at 500 rather than 320? Doing so could eliminate a lot of time at the buffing wheel.
I don't think 500 grit would be aggressive enough to level the lacquer.. The finer grits of sandpaper remove the scratches of the coarser grits, so by the time I start buffing, I am only dealing with the finest grit I used, which is generally 1000. Thanks for your comment.
Wonderful shine! How many coats of lacquer did you start with and any sanding between coats?
Thanks for the compliment. No, I don't sand between coats because the solvents in the lacquer cause the newest spray to melt into the previous layers. Technically, there is only one coat of lacquer on the guitar since all of the separate sprays melt together into one continuous film, unlike urethane finishes where the coats remain mostly separated from one another. However, this probably isn't the answer you are hoping to see. I pass my spray gun over the guitar 12 to 20 times, depending on how the film builds. Bear in mind that there is no standard measure for each of these "coats." The amount of lacquer that gets onto the guitar with each spray depends on a number of variables including how much I thin the lacquer, before spraying it, the size of the spray pattern, how much I open the nozzle on the gun, and how fast I move my hand as I am spraying.
@@zimnickiguitars311 Thank-you for your generous reply and your work is absolutely beautiful :) Do you have a target thickness of the completed finish?
@@kedocom No, I don't. I try to keep the finish as thin as possible without sanding or buffing through it. Having been doing this for so many years has taught me how to recognize when I have put on enough lacquer. I honestly don't know how thick the finish is when I am done.
@@zimnickiguitars311 I sprayed a drum with about 15 to 20 coats of nitro. I had some corks filling the holes that I then removed. They were flush with the rest of the drum, so I was not getting edge build up on them. I carefully sliced the lacquer from the cork fillers and miced them. Turns out that after the flash off and shrink back after 4 weeks (and nitro does shrink back pretty significantly as you know) the measured thickness was about .005". That's 5 thousands of an inch. A piece of copier paper is .003" After sanding and buffing, I would guess I dropped it to about .003" or .002". Pretty thin. But oh so pretty. Sanding is great because you are removing material evenly. If one tried to just buff, the finish would not be as even and the danger of buff thru is higher. Heat build up when buffing is a concern for the less experienced buffer.
Cool video.
@@jimflys2 thanks for the insightful comments. I'm glad you like the video.
what rpm did you use for buffing?
The arbor spins at about 800 rpm.
4:46 "to ensure that the guitar doesn't end up being SLAMMED to the floor by the spinning wheels". Been there, done that.
sadly....
Hi, which frets do you recommend ? I need to change them, too low ! Thanks
I usually use Stewmac nickel silver fret wire. I like the kind that is 0.050" tall and either 0.080 or 0.100" wide, depending on the guitar being fretted.
Could you tell me the name of the polishers that I use in the video, thanks
They came from StewartMacDonald.
Beautiful job, its a shame that the first person to play it will ruin it with their sweaty paws.
Thanks a lot! Hopefully it won't get ruined. One of the nice things about lacquer is that it is durable.
Thanks for watching.
I don't get it ;-;
i am aysha hussain i lear at school mucic
hi