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Zimnicki Guitars
United States
Приєднався 10 вер 2016
This channel primarily features videos related to instrument construction. I have been building fretted instruments--mostly guitars--since the late 1970s. My goal with this channel is to share information, both with would-be instrument builders and with my customers, as well as others who are curious about how guitars, mandolins and ukuleles are put together. The subject matter and the specific instrument often vary from one video to the next, depending on what is on my bench on the day I choose to record.
This channel also features recordings of instruments I have built over the decades. While not exhaustive, there is a sufficient sampling of different instruments to allow people to hear the results of my work.
This channel also features recordings of instruments I have built over the decades. While not exhaustive, there is a sufficient sampling of different instruments to allow people to hear the results of my work.
Building a Soprano Ukulele, part 10
I am nearing the end of this series. Here is a short video where I carefully remove the masking tape from the fretboard and show what steps I take in an effort to avoid chips along the edges. Next, I recheck my bridge placement from before I applied the finish, and finally, i glue the bridge to the soundboard using yellow wood glue.
www.zimnicki.com
www.zimnicki.com
Переглядів: 129
Відео
Installing Strings on a 12- or 14-Hole Classical Guitar Bridge
Переглядів 16414 днів тому
I made this video for the benefit of some of my customers, but anyone who is curious about the 12/14 hole approach may find it interesting. The advantage of this double-hole design lies in the fact that the strings form a sharper angle from the tie block to the saddle. This is because the string is locked in place at the back of the tie block, rather than being secured by a set of loops on the ...
Making a Smooth and Shiny Nitrocellulose Lacquer Finish : Soprano Uke Building, part 9
Переглядів 56828 днів тому
In this video, I show all of the steps involved in creating a smooth, durable lacquer finish, from spraying to buffing, including working on the small details around where the fretboard extends over the soundboard. I failed to talk about the high potential for break-throughs during the sanding process, but they are always a very real concern. If I do manage to sand through the lacquer while try...
Egmond Solid Body Guitar, Conclusion
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Місяць тому
George Harrison, Paul McCartney and Brian May all played Egmond guitars at some point in their careers. Made in Holland, this Egmond solid body guitar from the middle of the 20th century was a garage sale find and was brought to me to restore to playable condition. In the first episode, I removed the neck and found it had been shimmed with a penny and a piece of steel. This may have been a modi...
Dutch Lutherie at its Finest? The Egmond Solid Body Guitar, part 1.
Переглядів 2,7 тис.Місяць тому
I recently did some work on a 1960s era Egmond solid body guitar, made in Holland. These don't appear to have been built with quality as their top priority, although a lot of very successful guitarists played them, at least early in their careers. This particular guitar had a significant problem with the alignment of the bolt-on neck, as will as delamination of the the multi-layered plywood body.
Soprano Ukulele Building, part 8: Bridge Location with Compensation
Переглядів 236Місяць тому
Accurate location of the bridge is essential to the intonation of any fretted instrument. This is as true on ukuleles as it is on guitars. In this video, I discuss the difference between the theoretical location of the bridge (specifically, the saddle) and the actual location in order to achieve the best intonation possible. Through years of experience I have found that compensating the saddle ...
Soprano Ukulele Building, part 7:Filling Wood Pores with Epoxy Resin
Переглядів 209Місяць тому
The first step in applying the finish is to fill the pores in the wood. I generally accomplish this with an epoxy resin. Traditional wood fillers tend to stain the wood, which doesn't happen with the epoxy. This resin sands off of the surface pretty easily, leaving the pores filled and the surface bare, but not discolored.
Making a Soprano Ukulele Bridge
Переглядів 2192 місяці тому
The design of the bridge on a ukulele is very important. If too heavy, it can greatly effect the volume and responsiveness of the instrument because there is not a lot of string tension driving the soundboard. This is particularly true of the diminutive soprano uke. In this video, I show the steps in making a simple, light weight bridge of koa. www.zimnicki.com
Magnatone Solid Body Guitar Bridge and Set-up
Переглядів 5802 місяці тому
Magnatone electric guitars were made for several decades, ending in the mid 1970s. I had never had one in my shop, but then someone brought me four of them, all needing setups. What they required was standard setup adjustment: truss rod, fret leveling, etc. I found the bridge on these guitars to be unique and worthy of a little video. The bridge moves back and forth, held only by string tension...
Building a Soprano Ukulele, part 4b: finishing the channels and gluing the bindings
Переглядів 1572 місяці тому
Using Spanish Heel construction, the body cannot be routed for binding channels as one approaches the neck end. This final bit has to be accomplished by hand. I use a knife to carefully excavate the last bit of the channel. This short video shows that process.
Making a Classical Guitar Rosette, part 3: Assembly
Переглядів 3282 місяці тому
Here is the final video on how I build a mosaic rosette for a guitar. Typically such rosettes are used on classical guitars, but they can certainly be used on steel string guitars, as well. In this video, I use the tiles that were made in the previous two videos and assemble them inside of the ring that I routed into the soundboard. The inner and outer borders of the mosaic tiles are completed ...
Making a Classical Guitar Rosette, part 2
Переглядів 4232 місяці тому
Here is the second video on building a mosaic rosette for a classical guitar. In this video, I taper the assembled "log" of veneer sticks, then cut the log into 2 mm thick segments and arrange them in a circle where they will form the main body of the completed rosette.
Making a Classical Guitar Rosette, Part 1
Переглядів 2592 місяці тому
I started building a mosaic-style classical guitar rosette and thought that it would make an interesting short series of videos. The main body of the rosette is formed by assembling a series of very thin wooden sticks in a particular pattern, then slicing them into fine tiles and joining them side by side in the empty soundboard ring that is routed out. In this case, I used sticks that were 1mm...
Building a Soprano Ukulele, part 5: Frets and Neck Shaping
Переглядів 2543 місяці тому
This is the last video I will have for this instrument before I do the finish. In this video, I install the frets. After that, I shape the neck using rasps and scrapers.
Archtop Guitar Building: Closing the Body
Переглядів 7904 місяці тому
Archtop Guitar Building: Closing the Body
Small Steel String Guitar, part 12: The Final Chapter
Переглядів 2645 місяців тому
Small Steel String Guitar, part 12: The Final Chapter
Making the Bone Nut and Saddle for a Steel String, Multi-Scale Guitar
Переглядів 1805 місяців тому
Making the Bone Nut and Saddle for a Steel String, Multi-Scale Guitar
Small Steel String Guitar, part 10. Buffing, bridge gluing, and bridge pin fitting
Переглядів 3915 місяців тому
Small Steel String Guitar, part 10. Buffing, bridge gluing, and bridge pin fitting
Nitrocellulose Lacquer Guitar Finishing: Sanding the Tight Spots
Переглядів 4325 місяців тому
Nitrocellulose Lacquer Guitar Finishing: Sanding the Tight Spots
Changing Strings on Archtop Guitar: Keeping the Ball Ends in the Tailpiece
Переглядів 8515 місяців тому
Changing Strings on Archtop Guitar: Keeping the Ball Ends in the Tailpiece
1927 Martin Guitar Restoration, part 7: BAR FRETS
Переглядів 3546 місяців тому
1927 Martin Guitar Restoration, part 7: BAR FRETS
1927 Martin Guitar Restoration, part 6: Building and Installing a New Bridge
Переглядів 4646 місяців тому
1927 Martin Guitar Restoration, part 6: Building and Installing a New Bridge
1927 Martin Guitar Restoration, part 4: Repairing Some Challenging Back Cracks
Переглядів 7126 місяців тому
1927 Martin Guitar Restoration, part 4: Repairing Some Challenging Back Cracks
1927Martin Guitar Restoration, part 3: Removing the Neck
Переглядів 6357 місяців тому
1927Martin Guitar Restoration, part 3: Removing the Neck
1927 Martin Guitar Restoration, part 2: Fixing a Difficult Soundboard Crack
Переглядів 1,4 тис.7 місяців тому
1927 Martin Guitar Restoration, part 2: Fixing a Difficult Soundboard Crack
Try a sandstone marker don't know if it will work but worth a try
Great video demonstration of Gary's precise, detailed, workmanship quality and artisanship.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for the video, Gary! Very helpful for a noob!
.thanks for letting me know, Dave. I'm glad it helped.
your hands look like they hurt ask me how I know . what a work of art
Thanks a lot. My hands don't hurt too much. Yet.
I’ve only done French polish finishes. This video made me decide to try out lacquer. Nice work!
Thank you!
You could of used a 90 degree handle with a large flathead bit for the truss rod, not that clunky screwdriver. And the way you use that sharpening stone is NOT what someone would call fret leveling. You don't even bother masking the fretboard while doing the so-called "crowning". Yeah, it's a crap guitar, but do it properly if you're going to do it at all. That's guitar rape, not restoration. Thumbs down
Nice video. Very interesting Gary.
@mvecellio1 thanks Mike.
Very interesting. Happy New Year!
@billywhizz7928 thanks. Happy new year to you, too.
I just finished watching parts 1 through 12 consecutively and thoroughly enjoyed every minute :) I have subscribed, and I have one question. What would it cost to have a guitar like this built for me personally?
I'm glad you enjoyed the series! Thank you for taking the time to watch the videos and for subscribing to my channel. A guitar just like this one costs $7500.
They don't make Ovations like they used to.
Thanks for watching
Very nice! But Gretsch NEVER used brass nuts, It was always bone or bone with a zero fret!
Good to know, thanks.
Where do you get the nitrocellulose lacquer?
I use the Gloss Instrument Lacquer from Seagrave Coatings Corp.
Where do you get your 1x1 mm veneer sticks? Do you buy them somewhere or do you cut the sticks yourself? If you do cut them yourself, how do you do so?
I got them from japarts.ca. They have a pretty wide selection in the "rosette" section of their website. Shipping from Japan cost just as much as the rosette sticks, but I don't know of any alternative.
@zimnickiguitars311 Thank you so much for the info!
@systemglitch1523 happy to help!
Beautiful, bravo!
@billywhizz7928 thank you!
5:19 made my heart stop. Man that buffer has a lot of torque.
There's always a risk that the instrument will be slammed to the shop floor. I have only had that happen one time though, thanks to my lightening fast reflexes.
Great work! How many coats of lacquer over what period of time? How often do you sand through the finish and have to do another round? For me it happens too often.
It happens too often for me, too! I don't keep track, but probably on around half of my instruments I end up having to do a little bit of air brushing. I rarely need to spray the entire thing. As far as coats go, that's a difficult question simply because the amount of lacquer that is applied with each spray depends on 1) the viscosity of the material, 2) the spray pattern of the nozzle, and 3) the speed at which my arm moves. Technically, it is all just one coat since the new material melts into the older stuff. However, you probably want to know that I generally spray every other day for 4 days and on each of those 4 days, I point my spray gun at the instrument 5 times. This ends up building just enough of a film to let me sand and buff without many breakthroughs. I don't sand between sprays unless I see something in the finish.
@@zimnickiguitars311 Thank you so much! That is very helpful. I am interested in learning more about your spraying. If you are willing to share details. Gun, psi, nozzle tip size etc. Also what lacquer you prefer and how you mix or thin it. Once again thanks for ALL your videos.
@@mikekeystonefl I use an HVLP system from Apollo. Being HVLP, there is no psi setting. It uses a #2 nozzle, in Apollo nomenclature, but I don't know how that compares to a compressed air system's gun. I prefer Seagraves Coating's Gloss Instrument Lacquer. I comes ready to spray; doesn't need to be thinned.
Super job ! When you set your Iron to heat up the bridge, what setting did you have it on? What Tuner App are you using Gary ? Thanks !
@rickhenry8760 I think the iron was at the middle setting, but I have no idea what the temperature would be. I use an app called Guitar Tuna. I'm glad you liked the video, thanks for letting me know.
Thank you , excellent instructional video 📷 . Don't have a band saw , but I have a machete. God Bless You!
Thanks 👍
They do make angled flat head and phillips . Every hardware store sells them.
Sounds like the fine side of your stone isn't as flat as the coarse side.
You wasted your time mate
I'm not sure that brand new Egmonds were ever in playable condition. My first guitar was an Egmond Rosetti Solid Seven, a hollow electric despite it's name. It was dreadful. Lacking a truss rod, the action was nearly 1/2" at the 20th fret. A flat, unradiused fretboard. Feeble pickups, it was the same model that Paul McCartney and Rory Gallagher once had, and it is a miracle that it did not deter them from guitar playing forever. An abomination of a guitar.
@donerskine7935 😀 not a fan, huh? The one I worked on definitely seemed to have been built with lowest possible cost as a priority.
@@zimnickiguitars311 My guitar was not so much a guitar, more a crime against humanity.
I know what you mean! My first guitar was an Egmond by Rosetti Airstream 2. Pretty dreadful really, but you have to start somewhere. A friend of mine who knew a lot more about guitars than me (I knew nothing at all) did some work on the action and fitted a micromatic bridge, because the intonation was awful, and it became bearable. I saved up some money, got rid of it and bought a Burns Split Sonic, sold that and bought a 1958 Strat, which obviously I should have kept, but sold it in 1974 for £135 to raise some money towards a house deposit!
It's a very nice build whoever did it, not crazy about the swimming pool route but nice work none the less
Bitte🙏nichts daran machen, ist ein Original Fantastisch Gitarre, Saiten Lage nach unten und gut. 🎸😊
@@southsidearno7141 danke
Personally I would have binned it but, good job rescuing this guitar.
@@NotExpatJoe thank you.
Notable players used these for lack of better guitars.
@@reijerlincoln yes, certainly in times before they were well known.
Great work. 👍 Hope the owner gives it a good clean!
Thank you very much. I'm afraid that a good cleaning might end up removing most of the remaining finish!
Wow! This brings back a lot of happy memories. I am 72 now, and my very first electric guitar in about 1966 was an Egmond Airstream, it looked identical to that guitar. I have tried to find information about it but there doesn't seem to be much out there.
@bobfrankish8883 Thanks for watching, I'm glad you enjoyed it. Sorry I don't have more information about the guitar and its history.
For shure it looks to me that if someone has prepaired the neck for slide playing action. I have seen this quite some times. It is the easy way instead of making a higher nut...
Yes, after I finished the video, it did occur to me that someone may have set up the guitar for slide playing. Thanks for your comment.
I'm curious why you used thinned hide glue instead of ca glue to glue the laminates. Would ca glue be a bad choice for that?
@bradleyclosson5042 CA glue would have set too fast and I would not have been able to work it deep into the layers by squeezing and releasing the body. Also, I'm not sure that ca would have held up over time. I gets brittle. Lastly, the surface clean-up would be a lot more difficult with ca glue.
That bridge is something else. It's ability to "rock" is kind of random and sloppy, compared to how Bigsby bar bridge or a Fender offset would be. Neat guitar though.
I don't know if the bridge was built that way strictly for cost consideration, or if they had to be careful of patent infringements, or something else. I works, but it certainly isn't very stable.
it was a 50.00 guitar.
That is easy to believe. They built a serviceable, guitar that could be available to a lot of people.
thats a nice guitar
Thanks for watching.
@@zimnickiguitars311 i am looking forward to the next one :)
@jamesjohanson5675 perhaps in a day or two. Thanks
Interesting. Thank you. 👍
@billywhizz7928 thanks for watching.
I remember Grinnell Bros on Woodward in Detroit. Thanks for watching!
Grinnell's had horrible Crestwood guitars when I was a kid. Amazing how much better cheap guitars are now.
Thanks for sharing! It’s just like my 1978 KAY SG. Plywood body and beechwood neck. I always figured it was from Japan. We got it at Grinnell Brothers Music store in the Pontiac Mall. Remember Grinnell Brothers?
handy little router
Yes!
Great to see more progress! 👍
Thanks! 👍
Is a 3mm adjustment standard for all ukuleles, or just sopranos? It would seem that the longer the scale length, the less impact on the angle of attack of the string, when fretted up the neck.
I find that 3 mm works for all of the usual ukulele scales even though there is about a 6" difference between the soprano and the baritone size.
So on a Uke have you ever experimented with either a compensated saddle for intonation? Or an “8 hole” bridge so the string wraps around and over the saddle?
I try to keep the bridge as simple as possible and an 8 hole wrap around bridge would be fairly complicated. There is not a lot of difference in the diameter of the 4 strings, so there, so a slanting saddle to compensate individual strings isn't really necessary. I have made them with compensated saddles sometimes, but have not noticed any difference in intonation.
That back looks like a Martin from the 1920s. What a great set of wood.
@@alsguitars5127 Madagascar rosewood.
Wow, the wood looks lovely just with the filler freshly applied, a great preview of the finished instrument! You have now officially made me want a ukulele! I've seen a few struggle with pore filling but your method looks simple yet effective.
@billywhizz7928 thank you! Pore filling is always a pain, but this is the best method I have found.
Great looking bridge. I especially like the zero-clearance gig used to cut the saddle slot. Much safer that way. Great job.
@mvecellio1 thank you, Mike.
Great work. Looking forward to seeing it in finish.
Thank you. It's beautiful under the finish, but I won't be getting to that video for a few weeks. Please stay tuned!
I enjoyed that, thank you. An "interesting" bridge! Great paint job too!
@@billywhizz7928 classic 60s!
Thank you for posting these video
@@5barkerstreet you are welcome! Thank you for watching.
Thats a rocking bridge, same idea as the bridge on my jaguar. I understand the idea behind it but not a fan. The more i use the whammy bar the more the intonation goes out of wack. I finally gave up and wrapped aluminum tape aroung the post of the bride to take all the slop out and just gave up on the whammy bar. I thought a roller brige might help but never got that far. Cool guitar though!
@brianlachapelle8757 so it's supposed to move with the whammy bar, then return to its original position? I know these sorts of bridges have been used on different brands of guitars, but this is the first one I've seen. Thanks for the information.
Do you not suppose that pre-checking the neck without the fretboard on to see if the neck has a hump would have been easier to sand straight at least equal to the space that.your veneer strip was taking up... and then if needed alson removing some from the backside of the fretboard, and maybe deepen the trussrod pocket instead of having to remove the frets and sand the fretboard top?...
Very strange bridge. I almost would want to swap it out with a modern bridge. That is what I had to do with my father's Fender Music Master. Thanks for letting us see this guitar.
Thanks for watching!
That guitar could be in every surf band and surfer movie made. A real classic !
Definitely!