This video was super helpful. I am just learning the craft and I sand through water-based top coats every time I attempt traditional wet sanding. I love the super assilex abrasives and the tip about only going to 90-95%. Can’t Thank you enough.
Most useful video ever!!!!!! No one talks about finishing process as deep as you do here and it is a real joy to finally get those priceless informations! Thank you very much!!!
I sanded trough the final clear coat and the 2 lower layer of my 2K waterbased clear Zweihorn Duocryl Highgloss now came trough. Today I buffed it as much as I could but cannot get rid of these witness lines. Now your statement „don‘t worry about these lines“ let me hope… But I wasn‘t successful to find an answer how to buff these lines away. Everywhere the answer seems to lead to another final coat. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
THANKS SO MUCH! I am just finishing lacquering my mahogany Les Paul junior guitar body. I brushed on ‘bright tone’ water based polyurethane lacquer. I tried my best to be patient with thin layers but I unfortunately ended up with some drips on the side. I’ll use your 400 grit sandpaper strategy to erase those then move to 600 grit as you suggested. I’ll try to send you photos as I progress. I greatly appreciate your advise. Btw, I bought some polymerized tung oil to do the neck. I don’t like high gloss on guitar necks- my favorite is fender’s satin finished maple necks. I’ll try to use this expensive tung oil product to impart a smooth satin finish on this mahogany neck.
I appreciate how meticulous Chris is in every aspect of his work. The level of detail, different product testing, variations/maturing of processes and methodologies, and honest observations make these video priceless.
Perfect timing! I’ll be level sanding a Solarez ICBINL finish later today (don’t worry I have watched that video several times as well). You’re insights have been invaluable and have certainly kept me motivated at times. It is very easy to get discouraged when you first start going down the rabbit hole that is finishing! Thanks for sharing your experience!
His works of art are absolutely amazing Sadly he is not taking commissions at the moment I wish he was, absolutely one of the best in the field, my eyes don’t lie
I've been building guitars for about 3 years. Chris's tutorials are the best. I personally think that level sanding with a water-based clear is the most frustrating step by far. Dry sanding seems to lessen sanding through. I've also found that doing a wet sand with 1000 or even 1500 grit prior to full cure helps a ton.
Thanks for all of the useful tips. I’m going to be venturing into my first attempt at dry sanding in a few days, here’s to hoping I have that magic touch! 😁
The secret is in the abrasives. I use Super Assilex and Buflex from Eagle Abrasives to do my dry sanding. Use a hard sanding block for leveling and a soft foam block for polish sanding.
I'm apprehensive on the whole process lol... got my earlexx paint system in a box, solarez icbinl, buffing machine in a box, manzere block buffing compounds... :o
I bought an Earlex and ended up returning it. I didn't like the airflow when I wasn't actually spraying. I was prepared to pay whatever it took to get a nice gun. I bought the small 4oz .8mm gun from Harbor Freight just to finish the guitar I was working on. That was 6 guitars ago. I love it.
Also, when I use a random orbital sander to smooth a flat surface, I use a higher grit. Instead of a p600, I use a p800. This helps avoid sanding through, but still aggressive enough to smooth
GeeeEeeezus, I have only built one guitar from a kit and I don't intend to ever build another. I just want to get a good shiny finish. This is way above my paygrade.
Was going to ask why you don't use the lower grades of Super Assilex, but after looking at their site, realized they have a gap right at your preferred P600 level sanding. they have: K240 = P280 K360 = P400 K600 = P800 etc... Maybe you can convince them to make a P600 equivalent.... Thanks for all your videos
On guitars like this with the carve from the cap layer down into the underlying layer, do you find that it's difficult to achieve a shallow angle without affecting the clean border the cap creates? Is there a minimum angle you would recommend? I want to do this using a pretty shallow/wide cove router bit
Hey mate, slightly off topic, i just opened a new container of i cant believe its not lacquer, brush on. Is it supposed to be a paste or liquid. i've has it sat there for about 6 months, sealed, and its a soft gel. does this product have a short shelf life. i will contact my supplier on monday. Paul in Australia. P.S. love the channel.
This video was super helpful. I am just learning the craft and I sand through water-based top coats every time I attempt traditional wet sanding. I love the super assilex abrasives and the tip about only going to 90-95%. Can’t Thank you enough.
Most useful video ever!!!!!! No one talks about finishing process as deep as you do here and it is a real joy to finally get those priceless informations! Thank you very much!!!
Glad it was helpful!
I sanded trough the final clear coat and the 2 lower layer of my 2K waterbased clear Zweihorn Duocryl Highgloss now came trough. Today I buffed it as much as I could but cannot get rid of these witness lines. Now your statement „don‘t worry about these lines“ let me hope…
But I wasn‘t successful to find an answer how to buff these lines away. Everywhere the answer seems to lead to another final coat.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
THANKS SO MUCH! I am just finishing lacquering my mahogany Les Paul junior guitar body. I brushed on ‘bright tone’ water based polyurethane lacquer. I tried my best to be patient with thin layers but I unfortunately ended up with some drips on the side. I’ll use your 400 grit sandpaper strategy to erase those then move to 600 grit as you suggested. I’ll try to send you photos as I progress. I greatly appreciate your advise. Btw, I bought some polymerized tung oil to do the neck. I don’t like high gloss on guitar necks- my favorite is fender’s satin finished maple necks. I’ll try to use this expensive tung oil product to impart a smooth satin finish on this mahogany neck.
I appreciate how meticulous Chris is in every aspect of his work. The level of detail, different product testing, variations/maturing of processes and methodologies, and honest observations make these video priceless.
Perfect timing! I’ll be level sanding a Solarez ICBINL finish later today (don’t worry I have watched that video several times as well). You’re insights have been invaluable and have certainly kept me motivated at times. It is very easy to get discouraged when you first start going down the rabbit hole that is finishing! Thanks for sharing your experience!
His works of art are absolutely amazing
Sadly he is not taking commissions at the moment
I wish he was, absolutely one of the best in the field, my eyes don’t lie
Thanks for that including the reference to the Super Assilex product.
Love those erasers!
I second the recommendation for dry sanding with the Kovax sheets. They're amazing.
Thanks, looking forward to the polishing episode!
I've been building guitars for about 3 years. Chris's tutorials are the best. I personally think that level sanding with a water-based clear is the most frustrating step by far. Dry sanding seems to lessen sanding through. I've also found that doing a wet sand with 1000 or even 1500 grit prior to full cure helps a ton.
Very helpful info, thank you. Also, such a beautiful guitar, love the concept!
That's a beautiful guitar Chris!
Thanks for all of the useful tips. I’m going to be venturing into my first attempt at dry sanding in a few days, here’s to hoping I have that magic touch! 😁
The secret is in the abrasives. I use Super Assilex and Buflex from Eagle Abrasives to do my dry sanding. Use a hard sanding block for leveling and a soft foam block for polish sanding.
@@HighlineGuitars Good to know. I’m all stocked up!
I'm apprehensive on the whole process lol... got my earlexx paint system in a box, solarez icbinl, buffing machine in a box, manzere block buffing compounds... :o
I bought an Earlex and ended up returning it. I didn't like the airflow when I wasn't actually spraying. I was prepared to pay whatever it took to get a nice gun. I bought the small 4oz .8mm gun from Harbor Freight just to finish the guitar I was working on. That was 6 guitars ago. I love it.
Thx! Your explanations are really great and helpful.
Also, when I use a random orbital sander to smooth a flat surface, I use a higher grit. Instead of a p600, I use a p800. This helps avoid sanding through, but still aggressive enough to smooth
Great video. Very informative. Thanks!
this is a masterclass!
GeeeEeeezus, I have only built one guitar from a kit and I don't intend to ever build another. I just want to get a good shiny finish. This is way above my paygrade.
Was going to ask why you don't use the lower grades of Super Assilex, but after looking at their site, realized they have a gap right at your preferred P600 level sanding.
they have:
K240 = P280
K360 = P400
K600 = P800
etc... Maybe you can convince them to make a P600 equivalent....
Thanks for all your videos
I also prefer to do my initial level sanding with paper on a firm block. I can level better that way. From 800 up, I'm just reducing scratches.
beautiful guitar.
Some people are just great at what they do....
How affective does this work on guitars with thick polyurethane clear coat and binding? Does it present any challenges not scene with this example?
On guitars like this with the carve from the cap layer down into the underlying layer, do you find that it's difficult to achieve a shallow angle without affecting the clean border the cap creates? Is there a minimum angle you would recommend? I want to do this using a pretty shallow/wide cove router bit
The angle doesn't matter. What matters is how flat the glue surfaces are and how well you clamp the two pieces together.
@@HighlineGuitars Great, thanks for the reply. My drum sander and big box of clamps should take care of it then.
Hey mate, slightly off topic, i just opened a new container of i cant believe its not lacquer, brush on. Is it supposed to be a paste or liquid. i've has it sat there for about 6 months, sealed, and its a soft gel. does this product have a short shelf life. i will contact my supplier on monday. Paul in Australia. P.S. love the channel.
Liquid. Sounds like UV got to it.
Any reason you're not into using Mirka abrasives for your dry sanding? I'm curious, as they seem to last longer and clog less than other abrasives.
Because Super Assilex is way better.
Would you recommend using the Kovax paper to remove paint over poly clear coat?
I don't know. I don't do that sort of work.
Anyone know if it is good to buff and polish without putting clear in the guitar body ? Mine it's only sanded and painted
Lacquer only for me.
Same for me.