Brewing Beer with Easy Brew 50L All-In-One Automatic Brewing System (Fresh NEIPA)
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- It’s time to brew beer again, together with my cousin Enrico. In this video we are going to use his Easy Brew 50L all-in-one automatic brewing system to brew a fantastic New England IPA. It is a programmable RIMS system which makes this homebrew adventure a breeze. For this New England style IPA (NEIPA) we will use a ton of the following hops - Cascade, Mosaic, Citra and Galena. I am going to show you the entire beer brewing process: crushing the grains, mashing, filtering, boiling with hops, cooling, fermenting, bottling and not skipping the most important step: tasting the freshest beer I have ever tasted. The recipe is based on the book DIY Dog from the world famous Scottish brewery BrewDog. It is an improved version of the recipe that we brewed in the previous beer brewing video. See links below for more info about the beer.
This NEIPA recipe: www.tonyneedshobbies.com/reci...
Previous recipe: www.tonyneedshobbies.com/reci...
Brewers Friend priming sugar calculator: www.brewersfriend.com/beer-pr...
BrewDog’s recipe book DIY Dog: www.brewdog.com/uk/community/...
Contents of this video:
00:00 - Intro
01:01 - NEIPA Ingredients
02:12 - Mashing
03:36 - Filtering and sparging
04:15 - Boiling with hops
04:58 - Cooling wort down
05:19 - Fermenting
06:41 - Dry hopping
06:54 - Bottling
08:43 - Outro
About me:
My name is Tony. I am a guy from the Netherlands who speaks bad English with an even worse Dutch accent. I like to try out new hobbies and create stuff. The things I like to do are very random so I try to try out as many hobbies and crafts as possible and take you with me on that journey by making these video's.
Visit my personal website at www.tonyneedshobbies.com/
Follow me on Instagram: / tonyneedshobbies
All music from Epidemic Sound:
Blacktop Banks - A New Girlfriend
Fox Drop - How Many Times
#Homebrew #NEIPA #RIMS - Навчання та стиль
GREAT job with using the step mash brewing method. The brewing method produces fairly consistent pseudo, ale and lager. Under modified, low protein, malt should be used for step mashing.
I'm not sure if you know what goes on during the mashing cycle at different temperatures because the conversion rest was skipped.
Conversion occurs at 60 to 63. During conversion Beta turns simple sugar, glucose, into fermentable, complex types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose, which are the types of sugar needed for producing ale and lager. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place, due to maltose. Maltotriose is responsible for natural carbonation. Priming sugar and CO2 injection aren't needed for carbonating when conversion occurs. The high temperature rest denatured Beta.
Alpha is active at 56 and saccharification occurs. Also, a type of proteolytic enzymes activates that chops up Beta Glucan. Alpha is responsible for liquefaction, saccharification, dextrinization, and gelatinization. Alpha liquefies simple starch, and when that happens, glucose, and depending on the temperature of the mash, more or less, sweet tasting, nonfermenting types of sugar are released. The higher the temperature, sweeter tasting, lower ABV beer is produced. The higher the temperature, the quicker Alpha denatures. When the homebrew was produced dextrinization, and gelatinization didn't occur because the steps that cause the occurrences was skipped. Dextrinization, and gelatinization provides body and mouthfeel in beer. Flaked grain provides sludge.
A type of heat resistant, complex starch called amylopectin contains the ingredients that provides body and mouthfeel in beer. Amylopectin is the starch that makes up the tips of malt, and it is the richest starch in malt. Amylopectin contains A and B limit dextrin, which are tasteless, nonfermenting types of sugar, and pectin. Limit dextrin, pectin, and a type of protein provides body and mouthfeel.
When the homebrew was made the temperature wasn't high enough to open up the heat resistant, starch, where it would enter into the mash liquid, before Alpha denatured, and the starch was thrown out with the spent mash. To take advantage of amylopectin the Hochkurz and triple decoction brewing methods are used, where mash is boiled a few times. When Alpha liquefies amylopectin, dextrinization and gelatinization occur. The only time dextrinization occurs in the infusion method happens when simple starch contains a 1-6 link in the starch chain, which is extremely, rare.
To determine the quality of malt, a malt spec sheet comes with every bag of malt. A malt spec sheet is used before a brewer purchases malt. Listed on a spec sheet are level of malt modification (Kolbach), and percentage of protein. To distinguish malt, suitable for making whiskey, from malt that produces ale and lager, both numbers are very important. Malt, 40 Kolbach and lower is under modified. The percentage of protein should be less than 10 percent in malt. Under modified, malt is richer in enzyme content than high modified, malt, and low protein, malt contains more sugar. Weyermann produces under modified, low protein, malt. Gladfield base malts are under modified. When a recipe doesn't mention the malthouse that made the malt, the malt spec sheet can't be obtained. Malt spec sheets from every malthouse are online.
Mash out isn't needed in the infusion method, unless, it's used for thinning down the mash with hot water. The high temperature saccharification rest lasting one hour denatured enzymes. The high temperature at mash out reaches the temperature that amylopectin bursts and the starch enters into the mash liquid at the time when Alpha denatured, which causes starch carry over. Mash out is used in the decoction method, where starch carry over is less of a concern.
Depending on the length of time that it takes for mash temperature to reach each temperature step, and depending on the volume of hot extract that passes through the grain bed throughout the brewing process a condition called over sparge occurs, which extracts tannin. If 1Lt. per minute hot extract recirculates through a grain bed for one hour, it is equivalent to sparging a grain bill based on producing 20 to 30Lt. of beer with 60Lt. of water. Tannin extraction is a time, temperature, pH thing, and that's why vorlauf is kept within 10 minutes.
It's better to use boiling water infusions for maintaining mash temperature, and for reaching each temperature step, than it is to recirculate hot extract for a long period of time.
Hi Michael, Wow that is an impressive long comment full of interesting knowledge that I didn't have yet. That is appreciated! This will definitely be studied the next time I will do a step mash! Cheers!
Man if you think I am going to read all that your are absolutely right haha, I just brewed my first batch today, I tiny 1 gallon one, I have a Looot to learn, thank you very much
Great video, Thank you! That looks amazing.
Hi Mark, thanks! It tastes amazing too, and be sure to drink it quickly to maintain the fresh hop aroma's from the dry hopping. Really appreciate your comment, it keeps me going. Cheers, Tony!
I really enjoyed this!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video
Hope you dont mind some constructive feedback tho. Your NEIPA looks severely oxidised in the end (as well as the one you showed during the mashing process). You can see that when transferring into the fermenter it looks way brighter than the final product. Your grain bill also look pretty standard for a NEIPA, and unless you've used a dark munich, it should sit around 7/8 SRM at the end, which we can see it clearly doesnt.
Having watched the whole video, I think your packaging process is the culprit - NEIPA are notorious for being super sensitive to oxidation and you have to be super careful if you're bottling instead of kegging, and you've pretty much exposed the whole batch to a lot of oxigen.
Here's my suggestion. Skip the bottling bucket, and add the priming sugar directly to each bottle. You can do this by measuring it with a syringe or by using carbonation drops. Then, using your bottling wand, fill one bottle at a time and cap it right away. Don't leave they hanging in there waiting, because it will ruin your oxigen-sensitive beer.
Another thing, but not related to this, is that your dry-hop schedule is a bit "extended" - it has been shown that you should limit your dry-hop contact time to 5 days, maximum 7, before you start getting those grassy flavours. You mentioned one and a half week of contact time, which honestly, is not that common.
I think you can significantly increase the quality of your NEIPAs by taking these suggestions into account.
Cheers
Thanks, Nuno! I love constructive feedback cause it makes the results of my projects more enjoyable!
I have been wondering a while why the end product (when tasting) looks a bit gray/"dirty". If this is caused by oxidation then it doesn't hurt to try to take some precautions to work around it, as you suggest. Thanks for taking the time to teach me! The taste of the beer is really good though, especially in the first month, after which the hoppy freshness wears off a bit. Maybe it's a good idea to take these changes (as well as dry hop schedule) into account and brew up a batch to see the differences...
Again, many thanks for the feedback!
Cheers, Tony
@@TonyNeedsHobbies Prior to moving over to kegs I used a small amount of ascorbic acid in NEIPAs when bottling to minimize oxidation and ruining the beer.
Hi Hannes, van you specify the amount you used? Sounds like an interesting experiment! Thanks for the tip! Tony
@@TonyNeedsHobbies for a batch of 20L you only need like 0.2 g of the stuff.
Thanks! Will try it next time 😃
Great video! I've got a question. How many litres do you lose through evaporation during boiling using the all in one brewing system? Cheers!
Thank you Victor! It depends on the boil time. For this system the evaporation rate we calculated is between 1.5 and 2 liters/quarts (or 0.4 to 0.5 gal) per hour. Happy brewing and cheers, Tony
Hello, loved the video, where did you get those fermenters
Thank you very much David. I got those at the local homebrewing store in the Netherlands, where I live. Basically they are just food safe buckets with a silicon ring to seal the lid tightly to the bucket. The specific store where I got them is Braumarkt.com. They do ship internationally within Europe. Hope that helps. Happy brewing and cheers, Tony
Am i the only one that thinks at Dexter when seeing the plastic wrap covering on the walls?
Hahaha that's so funny! I'm not really sure what the idea behind the plastic wrap was again - have to check with my cousin - but I don't think/hope he was expecting much blood during the brewing session... Cheers!
Hi Tony, top video! Zou je dit product aanraden? of denk je dat je voor die prijs beter andere producten kunt gebruiken.
Hi Teun, goede vraag! Dit is de ketel van mijn neefje, zelf heb ik al veertig batches gebrouwen op een wat meer "hands-on" set bestaande uit allemaal losse onderdelen. Al met al ben je dan net wat minder geld kwijt maar het is wel meer werk tijdens het brouwen. Dat gezegd hebbende moet je met zo'n automatische ketel nog steeds best wat in de gaten houden, zodat bijvoorbeeld het wort niet te snel doorpompt. Dan kan het onderin droog komen te staan en aanbranden aan het verwarmingselement. Zo zijn er meer dingetjes die je goed in de gaten moet houden. Maar het werkte zeker goed en het resultaat was erg smakelijk. Mocht je willen vergelijken met hoe ik normaal brouw, daar staat ook een filmpje van op mijn kanaal: ua-cam.com/video/V2uDBmNx7jc/v-deo.html
Bedankt voor het kijken en proost!
@@TonyNeedsHobbies Bedankt voor je duidelijke antwoord Tony, hier heb ik zeker wat aan!
Hey Tony. Is er een mogelijkheid om met je in contact te komen? Had wat vragen over die houten zeep mallen.
Hey Simone, jazeker! Via Instagram chat? 😉 @tonyneedshobbies