Troubleshoot of the gas furnace inducer
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- 2 types of inducers are described. The 80% AFUE furnace and the 90% AFUE furnace inducers are shown. design and construction are covered. Symptoms of failures and reasons for failure along with replacement instructions are covered.
This video is part of the gas furnace series of training videos made to accompany my website: www.grayfurnaceman.com to pass on what I have learned in many years of service and repair. If you have suggestions or comments they are welcome.
If you are a homeowner looking to repair your own appliance, understand that the voltages and fuels used can be lethal and can cause a fire or explosion. Know your limits.
ive watched a lot of your furnace videos and your knowledge and efforts on this subject is unmatched. thank you for making these videos!
+tecnolover2642 Thanks for the support.
GFM
Thank you. This is the only logical explanation I have found so far to explain why these fail. Now I can shell out $150 every 10 years with less exasperation. Well done.
Agreed.
GFM
That seems to be the story for many things these days cheaper made and not very universal,plastic and heat do not seem to get along so well,im not surprised they would crack so easy,i have not run across many plastics that will hold up to heat! thanks for the info,great video
I love watching this man explain systems....A no bullshit schooling and I always learn something....Thank you sir once again.
Welcome
GFM
Have watched several of your videos now, and you really do a great job explaining everything. Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise!
drumrgirl61 Thanks for the support.
GFM
Good info! Thanks. My 80% inducer motor is screaming. It was impossible to tell where the sound was coming from and now I know it was the front bearing.
You are VERY good at explaining things! Thanks for taking the time to make these videos!
thanks man, this helped me learn more about inducers.
new apprentice so things are stressful when I don't know everything yet :/
Welcome
GFM
Silicone. The replacement gasket of choice. Yes it is ok. Thanks for commenting. GFM
Actually they are quite simple to replace. Most have several screws and an electrical plug to remove. When installing the new one, if a new gasket is not included use high temp silicone to seal it to the heat exchanger. Good luck.
GFM
Check the gas input. Sometimes if the furnace is overfired, the inducer overheats. Over fire will also damage the heat exchanger. Hope this helps.
GFN
3000 rpm/ without a load. With the inducer wheel.many variables...good vid.thx.
I have a Goodman furnace from the 90's or so I would guess since it has a shaded pole inducer motor. This week the igniter went out so I replaced that. Then a few days later the inducer motor wouldn't kick on at all. I checked the exhaust vent and pressure switch vacuum hose for blockages but everything was clean. Next I pulled the inducer motor itself and it also was clean as well as the port for the vacuum hose to the pressure switch. It also spun freely and the bearings all ran smoothly and with no play. I did notice that the gasket on the limitting plate had a lot of dry rot. So I put some high temp silicone on there to replace it thinking that the loss in pressure around the inducer housing may be just enough to not allow the pressure switch to function within range. I reinstalled it and it ran smoothly for a couple of days when it quit running again. This time when I powered the furnace on the inducer motor would flinch but not rotate all the way. Again this is a shaded pole motor and there is no capacitor for it. I checked the inducer motor for power and it was not getting any power. I checked for 24v from the thermostat to the control wire on the circuit board and that was good. It was about this time I noticed a small humming/buzzing noise coming from the control board which is still flashing the pressure switch failure code. Upon closer inspection the noise appeared to be a relay on the board very close to the power leg and common wire blade terminals feeding the inducer motor. I am ordering a new circuit board as this appears to be the issue that is preventing power from getting to the inducer motor. I probably could find the relay and replace it but I am not well practiced at desoldering and resoldering in small circuit board components also the circuit board is very corroded and is probably the original so there is no telling what may fail next. Circuit board component failure is definitely another cause of inducer motor failure. I didn't see this topic covered in the video but nonetheless your video(s) were very helpful in ruling out the other more common issues.
What a bummer that one can not simply replace the plastic fan ring. Thanks to your videos, I recently found my problem. The fan split. I wired and JB welded it together, so it is running...but I guess I will have to replace the whole inducer assembly. For now, it got me out of a pinch. I can assume the all plastic inducer isn't cheap.
Great videos! I have learned a lot.
+Badboy7357 The reason for the assembly is the assembly runs at about 3000 RPM and is balanced as an assembly.
GFM
What price could you offer for a Goodman Furnace inducer assy, part# B4833001? All plastic.
+Badboy7357 I don't sell parts. Sorry.
GFM
+Badboy7357 mine cost around $ 200 a Lennox 90% lasted about 14 years .The drain for the inducer fan was clogged causing the fan to be full of water. Once I fixed the clogged drain pipe for the inducer motor i.e bad install had very little fall, about a year later the inducer fan stopped working .
Thanks for the reply. I re-glued the plastic fan wheel with super glue. JB weld didn't hold. The two cracks were exactly opposite of each other so maybe the balance is good. Been running for days now with no indications of a fault, and is quiet. Hoping to make it to spring before having to buy a new inducer. Then I will just hold onto it until the original fails again.
I think you did a good job on the video. keep them comming. I am looking at replacing a Coleman trailer house inducer motor assembly but it is nothing like theones in your video
I get these furnaces as I find them in the junk pile. When I find one I will do a series on it.
GFM
Wow mine was getting power and humming so I took it off to look and found that a bird had made its way into the outlet and was killed by the inducer. Must have been like "ooh warm" and then "WTF! WTF!" lol
+Jon R That's about it.
GFM
First time I needed the 80% furnace heard the inducer wind up and then heard a "klunk" and stopped. (HINT: always kill the power. Usually will find a switch near or on the furnace). Power off, could spin the inducer manually with a small rub sound. Took down the info off the old and googled it to make sure of the part & if I was running the latest version (always a good idea, as the manufacturer fixes issues). Found I had XXXXX-00 and they were up to XXXXX-04. Used Amazon so i could see customer feed back. Prices were anywhere from $90 to $250. Went with the $100 that was XXXXX-04 that had good reviews. When removed, the cage on the old one was destroyed (made out of sheet metal). The new one had a much better constructed cage and 4 screw install (be gentle with the vacuum hose. They are expensive and special) . Turned up the heat then went to furnace, flipped on the switch and have heat. Good Luck
The early 80% inducers had many corrosion problems.
GFM
I am sure there are many different types, but the hoses I have seen are silicone rubber. Exactly the same tubing used for model airplane engine fuel line...which I have plenty.
Thanks Guy, you just saved me 625 dollars, I almost got ripped off..Thanks for the post
Welcome
GFM
how did it save you that
An HVAC tech will try to charge you $2,000 to replace the inducer, pressure switches, flame sensor, and igniter. Watch these great vids and DIY all day folks.
Great video production and informative. Thank you.
Can the motor be disconnected from the fan to allow it to be replaced without replacing the entire unit?
In most cases, it is impractical to replace the motor only. The fan may be impossible to remove without damaging it, and the inducer assembly is balanced as a unit, and may vibrate if replaced.
GFM
In defense of the plastic inducers, they used to use galvanized and had rust problems. As is normal, the plastic wheels had a lot of problems, especially the first few years. I have not seen as many failures lately. It would be nice if proper testing for longevity were well done. Thanks
GFM
I have a Trane XE90 that is short-cycling... It DOES ignite--but only runs normally (fast-continuous flashes) for about 4 minutes or so... after which the burners cut off and I get an error code of 4 flashes (thermal protection device open) for about 2 minutes... It was also getting to where it would lock-out (2 flashes) intermittently, and cleaning the flame rod seems to have corrected that. (BTW, thanks for your video about that!!) Unfortunately the problem where burners are only staying on for 4-ish minutes at a time is still unresolved... Checked filters (clean)... registers (open/unobstructed)... Best I can tell the inducer motor is running; it's hot to the touch and I'm hearing a noise that's kind of rattle-y. (At least I'm *pretty* sure that's where the noise is coming from.) In the video above you mentioned oiling the older (80%) inducer, but not the 90% style like I have... Do you think oiling might help in this case? (If so, where would I add it?)
drumrgirl61 The high temp lockout should mean there is an airflow problem. Look for dirty blower wheel, air conditioning coil plugged or ductwork problems. If the inducer motor is not vibrating, there is probably no problem with the inducer wheel (sometimes the fall apart). You can add oil to the shaft next to the bearing (inside). Hope this helps.
GFM
grayfurnaceman Thanks for replying! I'll try the oil... So far I've not found any info on how to gain access to the blower wheel or a/c coil, but will keep looking. It may turn out to be more disassembly than I want to try myself...
Turns out the RPM's are the same. Fasco replaced part # 7021-10048 with part # A169. Their website says that the new part spins at 2800 RPM, but when the part arrived it says 3060 RPM on the motor-- just like the old one. Everything looks identical. I'm gonna go with it.
As for the gasket... Just use red high temp silicone, right? Or do I need to pick up a gasket from a local supply house?
Is your part a factory replacement? Are you just replacing the motor? Inducers are not one of the parts I generally would use general replacement parts for. If you are replacing just the motor, balancing may be a problem. If the RPM is too low, the pressure switch may not make. As for problems down the road, I dont know. Let me know.
GFM
I guess I am fortunate. A few drops of Hoppe's gun oil and they run for years. Metal fan units.
Great video GFM
Generally, no. The practice of replacing the press switch with the inducer is ok but usually not necessary.
GFM
Helpful video. I have the exact same inducer on the right side there. I repalced my last one myself due to grinding annoying sound at start up. 3 years later now, having a noise problems again. Is it possible for these bearings to be shot so quickly?
Thanks for the info!
yes i have the same one and it just went out it was replaced 3 years ago!,sucks!
Hey Gary! Love your videos. Hey, I have a tempstar and I think I have figured out its the inducer. Nothing will turn when all calls for heat, just a click. The pressure switch worked when a sucked on it. Plugged the leads from the motor to electrical cord, just a hum - nothing else. Is there anything else I should check first? Nothing else works on the furnace, which makes sense.
thanks again nice video
+Phil falzone sr Welcome
GFM
I have an Older Dayton furnace with a bad inducer. The bad original inducer in the unit is a Fasco with an RPM of 3450. Many of the new inducer replacements for this old part have an RPM of 3350. Can I go with the new part with the lower RPM or will I have to find an older used duplicate with the same RPM? I was just wondering if the replacement part will generate enough CFM to trigger the pressure switches. Thank you for all of your great teaching efforts. Everything you do here is greatly appreciated.
It should work ok.
GFM
@@electriccar3253 Thank you very much for the reply. I greatly appreciate your help.
helpful video
Hi Great Video! Thank you. Would a symptom of a failing induction motor be an increasing amount of time between the start of the induction motor and the start of the pilot/flame/ignition? It used to take about 20 seconds. Now with new heating season it can take as long as 4 minutes. It is not consistently the same amount of time. It varies from 50 sec to 4 min and seems to be getting longer. Thanks Much
+Jean Lens Probably not. Pilot could be getting dirty or the pilot flame rod is dirty. Hope this helps.
GFM
Unfortunately, it comes attached to a new inducer. I would run it without until it dies. Hope this helps.
GFM
run it without what what are you talking about
It should not. Does it have oilers? If so it should be oiled each season. If the furnace is overfired it may be overheating the inducer. You can check the furnace firing rate. check out this vid. "Service the 80% gas furnace. Check the firing rate by clocking the meter part 10" I cant give you the address because youtube wont let me put it in the response.
GFM
Good vid !! As always.. what about restricter plates with btu's etc.
I'm not an expert. But 10 years ago I got Central Air. Is that why my motors - inducers go out significantly quicker?
And or should I get a new furnace with a motor accustomed to blowing near all year round? My furnace works, (the motor is the only thing that needed replacing) but is 30 years old.
First, inducers only operate with the furnace.
All circulating motors are designed for continuous operation.
GFM
Unfortunately, these are factory specific parts for most furnaces. I dont mean to discourage experimentation, but these are high liability parts. Use the factory part for this one. Most inducers should last 10 or more years.
GFM
Just replaced the flu assist on American Standard 90% was only 4 years old
good vid
Great video GFM. Had to order an assembly for an 80% furnace on Friday.
thanks for this...
I have the same furnace xv90 changed the board wasn't getting 120 to the inducer flashed 3 times which I have a new inducer aswell , but the igniter won't heat up. I can see in the flue there was a mice there and died I'm going to try to clean both pipes and see if that is the issue , and blow all the lines aswell
+Ricardo Rios That will cause the failure.
GFM
Ya think I'm not getting enough vacuum I didn't seal the inducer just cause I thought with the new board and switch it'd fire right up but I'm going to seal it b
Clean all the lines test the pressure switches hopefully it runs
Ordered a replacement inducer. Everything about it is identical except the RPM's. The new one spins a few hundred slower. Friend of mine is an HVAC tech. He says it will work, but cause me problems down the road. However, I can't find one that is a closer match. Your advise?
Hi, I am Very thankful your posting and i wanna to ask that My furnace is working but the combustion air inducer seem like very very hot when the prowler is on. I am afraid that is abnormal or is fine? Do I need to change it?
If it is not making noise or has stiff bearings, it's ok.
GFM
I broke the plastic wheel similar to the one on the back side of the 80% furnace blower you have there. Are there replacements for that? Its a Tempstar Furnace Exhaust Inducer Motor.
My inducer motor is leaking condensate on the seams of the black housing. Should inducer be replaced?
You can try silicone sealer on the seams but understand there may be cracks in the housing. This would, of course, necessitate replacement.
GFM
Question: Should I be replacing the pressure switch at the same time I replace the inducer? Thanks!
The motor on the left is cat 4 furnace and the one on the right is cat 1 furnace?
Correct. All inducers for cat 4 furnaces are plastic to avoid rust.
GFM
My plastic Fabsco has a Small dia plastic "Flow Reducer"(Flat plastic with smaller hole) Plastic-riveted to the center, apparently to redirect/focus air flow over the Heat Exchanger. This is the part that failed on mine and I'm sure it happens often, It is not protected from the heat because it is so flimsy and "added-on." It disintegrated and took out the fan wheel(Irreparable). Then, it is not sold with the Fabsco, you have to purchase it separately, from a separate supplier, and back-ordered. MY fan arrived first, and furnace was out in cold weather so I tried it. Cycle is wrong and furnace ineffective, so I assume it's essential. Why wouldn't they make it out of stainless or something? ANYONE have any other ideas, we're cold.
I wonder if I could use the GAsket-Maker/sealer in addition to the plastic rivets so that it would be firmly attached to the thicker/cooler plastic of the Inducer shell, maybe forestall it's eventual disintegration.
First, I would be sure the furnace is not over fired. Anything you can do to keep it mounted solidly may help.
GFM@@paularmstrong9915
thanks for the info. quick question…i have an 80% type inducer. i have bought a new one off amazon. will it come with a new gasket or do i just need to add red silicone around the border and screw holes to seal it? thanks
It may or may not come with a gasket. I have gotten them both ways. The border and screw holes is fine for silicone.
GFM
The reason they went to draft motors is because they went from ribbon burners , to inshot burners , it had nothing to do with flue temp. Also the 90 % draft motor DOES NOT condense , condensation happens in the flue , then runs down the flue, past the draft motor, into a drain trap, condensation also happens in the secondary heat exchanger , and also drains into a drain trap .
Well, I have to differ here. Carrier was the first to go to inducers and inshot burners in the early 1980s. And certainly the inshot burner will not work without induced draft. However, most manufacturers continued with ribbon burners both with induced and natural draft units up until around 1990. The high efficiency heat exchangers reduced the draft temps to around 200F. This low of temp would not draft effectively, so the inducer was used as a helper to the draft. I am not sure where you got the condensation happening in the the inducer. It just must deal with condensate.
GFM
Hmmm. I have 3 Coleman furnaces all with the SAME burner, 1 without the motor and 2 with. They all use the same flue. The one without the motor also does not have any electronics. It is a standing pilot.
can the motor be replaced on the fan motor inducer ?
Cool
so where could i purchase one of the all metal type of inducer motors
Hello quick question I have a Duncane furnace its saying that pressure switch is stuck open. The inducer wont come or nothing. I replace the pressure switch in the hose. The inducer is getting 110 but wont come on.
The most common problem here is the bearings in the inducer motor have seized.
GFM
I was told what the inducer did and I was wondering why they keep running. I was under the impression that they only ran for a few moments.
Inducers, when used with early furnaces (before integrated furnace controls) would run continuously if the burner did not light.
Modern furnaces will shut down the inducer if the pressure switch does not make or there is no flame.
The other time it would run continuously would be if the high limit opens.
GFM
I got a blinking red light after it runs for about 5 minutes. The door panel says that it is a relay short . I checked the pressure switch, the eye probe , and small safety switches and everything seams to be working. I can't figure it out?
What brand and model number?
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman G5RA series high efficiency up flow horizontal gas furnace. Induced draft 80+afue
@@grayfurnaceman I also just replaced the the blower fan to 1 stage from a 3 stage no ac.
what is the purpose of the Gasket in between metal part of the fan
Its there to seal the intake of the fan so that only air is drawn from the heat exchanger.
GFM
I Just ordered the fasco A143 looks like the metal one in your vid. It does not come with a gasket and i was told by the company that i dont need one. I did scrape one off the old one. Do i need a gasket or can i use rtv or would it be fine with no gasket or sealant ?
motown427 I always use RTV.
GFM
thanks
I just replaced my 80% inducer with a Fasco OEM. It didn’t come with gasket and when I removed the old inducer the original gasket near the exhaust was so brittle it just crumbled. Couldn’t have been doing much over the past few years. I installed the new one without the exhaust gasket...do you see any issues coming? What can I use as a replacement?
Also the inducer assembly housing, not the motor, seems to be getting very warm. Is that usual? I’m guessing it is but any information on that for piece of mind?
Use high temp red silicone. It is normal for it to get quite hot.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman thanks for the quick response! Is it mandatory foe the gasket or would it run fine without it?
@@seankirkendall7031 Like I said, use the red silicones a gasket.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman thank you so much! Should I use it for both the exhaust gasket and as the gasket behind the inducer, replacing the felt oem gasket? How much of the silicon do you recommend using?? Thanks again!
@@seankirkendall7031 Exhaust sealing is not necessary. It is used as a replacement for original gasketing. About a 3/8" bead should work well.
GFM
GFM - Out of curiosity on a 80% furnace do you know what is the average temperature at the burners and the average temp coming through the inducer (exhaust).
I don't have really accurate numbers but at the end of the burn you should have about 1400F. The inducer will have about 200 to 250F. Hope this helps.
GFM
Can you replace only the blower wheel of the inducer if the motor is fine?
You can try if it is a metal inducer and wheel. Plastic, no. Usually, the wheel will not come off the shaft, and if you get it off, you usually will bend the shaft. Good luck.
GFM
grayfurnaceman mine was plastic so no choice.. I bought a new inducer, thanks for replying 👍
motor on inducer is getting hot and not blowing as storng as it use to !
Big Doe If it slows, the pressure switch will shut off the burner.
GFM
will a inducer make a rollout switch kickoff if bad on a 90% furnace ?
Big Doe Generally no. I would expect this to be a heat exchanger problem.
GFM
GFM, great video. Just subbed to your channel. I have an 80% inducer motor just like you had in your video. Can you suggest where to order another one? Mine is going out I'm afraid. Thanks in advance. Jeff
I don't recommend any sellers. The only advice I can give is get one that is a factory replacement inducer assembly. Do not buy the motor separate from the inducer itself as the unit is usually balanced as a unit. Hope this helps.
GFM
Thanks GFM
I am very sorry to bother you, but I've ran across a few of your sites and thought it was worth a shot to ask you about something. Hopefully, you're willing and able to help. Earlier tonight, I told my husband that there was a tinking sound in the furnace fan. I didn't feel comfortable taking anything apart to look inside the fan, so I waited for him to get home. I told him about it, he went downstairs and a few minutes later when I got down there with him, he had disconnected the draft inducer by mistake! He put it back together and now all of a sudden we're getting the 3 flashing light that means pressure switch open with inducer on. We tried blowing and sucking into the hose. Worked for a few seconds, but then burners went out (safety feature) and error code came right back. As of right now, my husband sucked on the hose continuously, fired up the furnace and left that end of the hose off. We have heat again, but obviously we no longer have our important safety feature of the pressure switch function detecting the negative pressure. So my question is, how do we fix the pressure switch, when it only started acting up after my husband disconnected the draft inducer? I think it has to do with losing suction when he broke the seal, but I'm not an expert like you and am only guessing here. I appreciate your time and any help you can provide us with. Thank you very much. (Oh and the original problem with "tinking" sound was a piece of masking tape that somehow got in the fan.)
Laura Leighton Your problem here may be leaking vacuum where the inducer mounts to the heat exchanger. I would remove the inducer and seal the joint with high temperature silicone. If that fails, be sure the fitting where the sensing tube attaches to the inducer is clear. If it still does not work, you may have damaged the switch by sucking too hard on it and it will have to be replaced. Hope this helps.
GFM
Mine is starting to hum. Do you think that's a motor bearing issue or something else?
Usually the only failure with these type motors are bearings. However, if the blower wheel is breaking up it will vibrate. Hope this helps.
GFM
grayfurnaceman It turns out the plastic fan caps over the blower shaft end and that piece broke off and was stuck between the fan blades causing excessive vibration. Had I known, I would have at least taken it apart and removed the piece before the new motor arrived. When on, it sounded like sitting on a commuter jet near the engine. After replacing, I took a look at the bearings and they seem to be fine. I suppose I now have a temporary replacement if the new one ever acts up. Thanks for response and the video!
Enigma758 Too bad about the caps.
GFM
grayfurnaceman I was able to purchase a replacement, online, for $130 and it arrived within a few days so no problems. The old once will still work in a pinch so I'm keeping it as a spare. Your video provided me with some confidence that it was a simple fix (took only 15 minutes) so thanks for that.
Enigma758
In a pinch just go outside where the vent terminates and tape the suction end on a wet/dry shop vac to the end of the furnace vent and turn it on..Lol. This will pull enough to close the pressure switch and make the furnace fire. The shop vac will collect the condensation and the exhaust on the shop vac will vent the flue gases.
I'm getting water in my pressure switch vacuum hose. What could be causing that?
There a couple of reasons this could happen. If the furnace is in an area that is less than 55F. The pressure switch has a small hole in the diaphragm to bleed air into the tubing to keep moisture cleared. Some of them just do it for no apparent reason.
GFM
What kind of oil? My inducer is making horribke noises. Will take 2 days to get new one, so if i could keep this on goin hat long, it'd be swell.
Troglodad Oil it with whatever you have to make it work.
GFM
Replacing a 80% inducer. There is a white thin gasket. Looks like wool or something. It is in bad shape. Can I take that out and use RTV or some high temp silicone instead?
I always used RTV.
GFM
Thanks! On applying the RTV, do you tighten the screws down all the way right after applying? Or should you barely tighten them till a little bit comes out the sides, wait an hour, then fully tighten. I have used RTV for auto stuff and that usually how I would do it but not sure if that is the method you use.
I have always just tightened them down. It may be different with sheet metal.
GFM
I have an American Standard aud080c936j1 furnace. My inducer motor won't run at all so i don't get any ignition. What would be the reason for this?
Charles Roberts Does the motor turn if you rotate it by hand? No rotation, bad inducer. The motor should be hot. If the motor is cool and does not rotate, you could have a pressure switch stuck on or the control board may not be sending power to the inducer. Hope this helps.
GFM
Thanks for the info I had a furnace man come out and he had it running in about 10 minutes.
Charles Roberts HEY!!! BUT WHAT WAS THE ACTUAL PROBLEM?
+GFM - My inducer fan is not running but if i suck on the vacuum tube, the gas will ignite. So, how do I determine if its the motor on the fan (the rotor turns freely), OR the RELAYSWITCH? I originally thought it was the motor as it was hot while not running, but when I checked the relay, it clicks but doesn't seem to supply 120V at the black line to the motor. The multimeter will jiggle but won't go to 120V but it may be something else locking it out at this point. Suggestions?
too bad you don't have a grease insert for the bearings.
i have a question. my new inducer isn't creating enough vacuum to trigger the vac control switch. what can i do?
Ok, the pressure switch would not make so you replaced the inducer. Most inducer problems do not involve the inducer. Venting blockages are the first thing to look for. Blocked pressure switch tubing, blocked tubing fitting, failed pressure switch. Hope this helps.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman thanks for getting back to me. The inducer is new (oem) and pressure switch is new. Recommended as an oem replacement. On their own the furnace won't fire up. But if I put the tubing in my mouth and create a vacuum she'll fire up. Do I have a leak somewhere? Where should I look?
Thanks Bud
Have you checked the vent?
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman will do tomorrow. I'm also thinking that the felt gasket they provided for the inducer may be not making a tight seal. That's another job for tomorrow.
@@grayfurnaceman Hi, somehow I lost the message thread to our conversation. I did check the vent and as you suggested there was a bee's nest causing a blockage. All working perfectly now. Thank you so much for your help.
👍🏼
Thanks
GFM
I'm getting a loud buzz that starts 30-60 seconds before the main blower kicks on. Inducer shot? DIY replacement job or should I bite the bullet and call a tech? Thanks
Send a video to Grayfurnaceman@gmail.com
GFM
So I replaced the inducer motor (full assembly, not just motor) but still have the same loud buzz. Any ideas?
I would trace it using a screwdriver to the ear.
GFM
I just had a tech leave my house and he said it's going to cost $501 to replace the inducer.
You have a cheap one. If it was variable speed, it would cost $700+. There is no real cheap way to do this. You can sometimes buy the inducer yourself but it still is expensive. If you try to replace the motor without replacing the wheel and housing, you will probably damage the blower wheel removing it, and it will probably vibrate when you are done because the blower is balanced as a unit. Sorry I could not give you better news.
GFM
grayfurnaceman
Great video, I was looking for a way to save money, plan on doing it myself, mine runs around $325, I started looking for just the motor, but I'm sure glad I watched your video first. I guess I will just bite the billet and do it the right way, thank you.
I would say you were Rheemed! LOL
Thanks for your video! It helped me troubleshoot and repair my own furnace. Here's what my issue was (drainage block, code 31 as the pressure switch was fooled by the water condensation) and how I fixed it: ua-cam.com/video/waozj5jUAsU/v-deo.html