Hey, thanks for all of your great vids! Lots of well explained info. I replaced HSI after breaking the old one while trying to clean. My pilot light would still not light. I did lots of little trouble shooting (exhaust vent clear, drain lines clear, sucked on hose going to pressure switch, etc.) and still got Soft Lockout code. I called in HVAC guy and he tested voltages and figured it was the smart valve. In a last attempt after he left, I unhooked the pilot line that goes into the gas valve. powered up and after inducer moter was on heard click on valve, then propane came out of that port. Shut down and took the pilot assembly out, removes HSI and blew compressed air through the pilot line and stick a needle down the flame end. Back together and all fired up as supposed to! Thanks GFM!!
GFM - Thanks for the videos. They have proven quite useful. Adding this story to the thread for two reasons: 1) so that others that may have similar symptoms have an idea what to look for/check and 2) to request your input on whether I have over-fixed my issue. :-) Symptoms: #1. Loud, irregular clicking in the gas line leading into the furnace when the furnace is attempting to heat. #2. Furnace cycling - all 4 burners ignite, remain lit for 20-30 seconds, then shutdown. HSI heats up, pilot lights, burners don't lite... just a brief "puff" of gas being ignited. Repeat another 2 times for a total of 4 attempts, then the unit goes into safety shutdown. During each attempt to ignite, the clicking sound in the gas pipe can be heard. IFC error code: 6 flashes + 2 flashes Attempts to troubleshoot: 1. My Arcoaire has one of the integrated flame sensor/HSI/pilot assemblies (awful design when it comes to cleaning/repair). I used a very fine emery board to clean the flame sensor, being very careful not to touch the HSI. Reattached the unit...same results. 2. Contacted local gas utility to test pressure at the meter. Confirmed pressure was below normal, but not significant. Gas tech adjusted pressure accordingly. Initiated call for heat... same results. 3. Pressure switches appeared to be operating properly, but I didn't jumper them to test (in hindsight, I should have done this). At this point I opted to call in a professional. We discussed the issue and he did some troubleshooting. He indicated that the Honeywell Smart Valve solenoid was failing/had failed. Sadly, a $300+ part. He replaced the valve and the unit began to operate (and the multiple clicks heard in the pipe ceased). About 1 hour later, the unit stopped working again. This time the IFC has 3 LED flashes... indicating a pressure switch issue. Tech came back and determined that the condensate line was plugged. Cleared that out and things started working again. All has been fine since then. The question I have is, given the condensate line blockage, could that have been the actual root cause, meaning the smart valve replacement was unnecessary? Thanks, Brian
+Brian Pearson I don't think so. These controls had a lot of problems with the circuit board in the gas valve. They would make intermittent contact which would cause the problem you have described. GFM
If the pilot is yellow and lazy, I would clean the pilot assembly. You can adjust but it will probably not help. And yes the adjustment screw is under the phillips cap. Hope this helps. GFM
I don't think there was a flame rollout with that furnace. But the fan door was off. I agree the smart valve was not the best idea but sometimes we don't have the option of actually replacing the furnace and we do have to repair. Thanks for the comment. GFM
The problem I'm having was the pilot would not light at first so I replace the pilot assembly after that the pilot would light but 20 seconds later the glow stick would glow again and then shut down never firing up the Jets. I ordered a used gas valve hoping that would correct the problem but I'm having the same issue. I changed the transformer because I noticed a power drop when it glowed thinking it wasn't getting enough voltage but that didn't correct it either. After seeing your video I'm thinking I might have a bad pilot assembly that's not sending the signal back to the gas valve letting the valve know it's lit. Hoping to find out before I order a new gas valve thinking I got a bad one.
I dont know of any am stand furnaces that used the smart valve. Is there a pilot tube? If not, it is a direct ignition where the main burner is lit by the HSI. If the HSI comes on and the burner does not come on, Look for gas supply problem, If all valves are on, you have a problem with either gas valve or control board. Hope this helps. Let me know. GFM
I have a standing pilot furnace. I replaced the bad gas valve. The new one was different from the obsolete original. At first it lit ok. 2 weeks in, now there is a violent explosion when the burners light. What could be the cause?
First, be sure the gas input matches the model plate info. If ok, watch the ignition from the pilot. Does the pilot light any of the burners? Does the gas valve energize but nothing ignites? Partial ignition could mean dirty burners/ flame spreaders. Is the pilot located close to the burner? GFM
If you have cleaned the flame rod on the pilot, and it still does not work, the valve assembly has failed. Be careful cleaning the flame rod as the HSI is right there an d is easy to break. Hope this helps. GFM
I'm getting 4 flashes on my SV9541. According to the troubleshooting chart, the limit switch is open. Everything ignites and the burners come on, but it short cycles before getting to desired temp. I also notice that the stick igniter steadily glows throughout the whole heating cycle and does not shut off Do I need to replace the smart valve? Help please it's cold in here lol!!
thanks alan johnson, well after my commens, I remove the polite flame rod off and seen that it looks new (but i know its not) i cleaned it , an put back on and was going to repairman , but tried it again and is working fine. thanks for responce
Question I have a Honeywell SV9501M2528 if I put the IGNITION SYSTEM CONTROL SWITCH to the off position my hot surface ignitor lights up but of course pilot & burner do not light, the switch being off prevents that, But then when I switch it to on inductor fan kicks on but hot surface ignitor never starts glowing? Is my Smart valve bad or could it be something else? thanks..
Thanks for this video. Helped me figure out that my pilot line was plugged up. It wasn't allowing the propane to get through and light. All I was getting was the glow and no fire. I removed the line hit it lightly with some compressed air and reinstalled. fired up the first time. Your video allowed me to see how it should look when functioning properly. Thanks again.
Having trouble with a HEIL DC90, it short cycles. Everything works but it will only run about 5 mins Max, then just runs inducer till it fires again. Cleaned and checked but didn't understand flame sensor part with gas line Soo assumed it was rollout and cracked exchanger. Now think I need to try and clean the flame sensor which I still don't see what part it is
My furnace light the pilot then doesn't light the main burner. I replaced the flame sensor assembly thinking that's what it was and that did not work. Any suggestions?
I think I need to adjust my pilot flame, it will fluctuate many times until it stays lit when furnace is cold, if multiple restarts in morning to bring up temps it will light every time, after an overnight cool cycle that first time it takes multiple attempts and just HSI will be glowing and draft fan running. Manual says remove cap to access adjustment, only saw phillips screw with gasket near pilot feed, is that the cap they refer to?
The troubleshoot is pretty much if the ignitor lights the pilot and the main burner does not come on with a new pilot assembly, the valve has failed. You might check the plug going into valve for tight. Also make sure all ground wires are tight. There is a youtube vid on repairing the electronics, but I am reluctant to get that involved. There can be safety issues. As for gunk in the line, it would take a lot of gunk. Unfortunately, smart valves have a reputation for failure. GFM
American Standard Freedom 80 Single Stage furnace model AUD060C936K3, does it come with a smart valve? When I turn on the heat, I can see the igniter glow red hot for about 20 seconds, but I don't see the spark click or gas valve open.
Gfm, hey I'm working on an icp furnace everything checks out but main burners only stay lit between 5 and 10 seconds..I cleaned everything on pilot assembly with steel wool but still doesn't go.
If the unit has an electric pilot and the pilot moves away from the flame rod after the burners light, you may need to shield the pilot assembly to keep the flame on the flame rod. You could also have a failing ignition control. GFM
@@brokensmile8487 Most failures of this type can be traced to failure to sense flame. If there is a flame rod in the pilot flame be sure the flame is blue and covering the flame rod. You could also clean the flame rod with sandpaper. GFM
@grayfurnaceman I just want to say, your videos are great and they've helped tremendously. What is the best way to check these flame sensor on these smart valves? Is it the same process as other flame sensors?
@@brokensmile8487 You can't check the performance of the flame rod. You can clean it but be careful, the hot surface ignitor is very close and fragile. Now, for probable reality. The control inside the gas valve assembly has probably failed. Means a new assembly. GFM
@grayfurnaceman I guess they have a harness you can hook up to the igniter port on the gas valve and runs it in series with the igniter assembly and that will check the performance. There is also a harness for the control side. They are 150 dollars though. I ended up cleaning the flame sensor and all is good. The harness would be a good investment considering a gas valve could be replaced when the flame sensor could be the culprit.
Having a issue with this smart valve, pilot lights main burners come on and stays on for a few minutes blower doesn't run until after the main burners go out, then repeats sequence, GFM what do you think could be the issue?
I was having issues a few months ago - HSI was not coming on. Service company came, replaced pilot assembly, everything worked fine. Now I'm having the same issue - thermostat calls for heat, HSI will not come on. I can light the pilot with a lighter at that point, and the furnace will kick on, but it won't light on its own. Can you think of a reason why I would have two HSIs go bad in a span of a few months?
@@grayfurnaceman yes have gas pilots comes on and goes out than comes on and goes out over and over. Thought rectification problem cleaned sensor,checked ground and polarity.Hell I even checked phasing of transformer.I was thinking bad smart valve but not 100 percent sure.Was hoping you could guide me on this one.
Question: 1 of the burners on my SEER 13 Bryant HVAC is not lighting - off until after several automatic starts (e.g., 3-10 attempts). Cleaned rods between nozzles & combustion chamber. The Right assembly has 2 rods (ignition source?) , center nozzle has no rod. Left nozzle has 1 rod (flame sensor?). Unfortunately, Left nozzle takes several automatic light off attempts to fire up. What Is the likely problem? Thanks! Tim
I have a Smart Valve SV950M 2056. Turn on furnace , you hear the valve open and sometimes the the burners light and sometimes they don"t. Shutoff the stat and turn back on and it will light. All wire connections look ok check all i could. Do i need a new valve?
I am dealing with a ultra 90 that ignites but I don't believe the main gas line is coming on because the burners do not light. but the fan will come on and just blow air which is cold do to the burning not lighting.. any suggestions
+Omar Hill If the pilot comes on but no main gas, the flame rod may be dirty. You can clean it with sandpaper but be very careful. There is a small hot surface ignitor close to it that is easily broken. Hope this helps. GFM
I've just replaced the smart valve on my furnace, and I can get it to light, but the pilot flame is larger than it should be, it's more yellow flame, and isn't getting all sucked up by the fan , causing it to start to burn the furnace up. On the smart valve there's a pilot flame adjuster, but we either adjust it to too big, or too small, and it can't light. Are we missing anything? We're replacing the pilot gas tube assembly today, hoping that's it. We noticed a small kink in the aluminum tube for the pilot, not sure if that's affecting it.
+Matt Spaulding I would clean the pilot assembly. The yellow indicates a dirty pilot. Be careful not to damage the the hot surface ignitor. Hope this helps. GFM
I have a Comfortmaker model ntg9075fga2 (dated 1997) with Honeywell smart valve. The system does not heat but I can see the HSI glowing but no flame in the pilot. I cleaned the HSI and the pressure switch is good and I can hear the gas valve click but no flame either in the pilot or in the main chamber. Is the gas valve bad? The draft inducer works fine and if I put the thermostat in Fan ON, the blower works well too. All the pressure switch ports are in good condition. I also have a gas water heater next to the furnace. It works no problem. It seems there is no gas flow to the furnace burner. Please help. David
+grayfurnaceman Thank you very much for your response. After watching your another video "A look at Smart Valve operation", I realized that the tube from the gas valve to the pilot burner may be bad. I took it out last night and found out that at the tip of the tube, there is a corn shaped valve (.25 in by .5 in). It stuck to the tube wall due to the condensation and rust. I cleaned the tube and get rid of the rust. After reassemble the HSI unit, the system works fine. The gas valve is good. However without your video, I would not think about the clog of the HSI gas supply line. Your videos are very good and thanks a lot for your excellent videos. I think many people have learn a lot and save a bunch of money from our video.
I have problem with Fan running continuously and no light on LED on honeywell smart valve. Replaced fan control board and didn't fix it. limit switches show continuity. Is this a smart valve problem needing replacement?
Original Honeywell gas valve was replaced with a new Honeywell vr8304m3509 and Original Honeywell Ignition Control Board S8610U3009 was also replace. Everything looks to be wire correctly 24v coming into Ignition Control Board. Still have no pilot. The gas valve only has on and off no pilot markings. I checked the spark wire with my meter looks ok. Only thing I didn't change yet is pilot unit. Q: Do I have to light up gas pilot with a matches or should it light on it's own. HELP PLEASE, thanks in advance
question, I have a sv9500 gas valve, when hsi glows the main burners immediately lite and it pops back,,,, no pilot and flame sense first !!!! I'm thinking the gas valve has failed.... what is your opinion?
grayfurnaceman I was on your other video, this is what I have. Smart valve with glow coil, then the flame sensor and igniter and what looks like igniter pilot. And it is Behind the burner casing. This was replaced on March 21, 2011 before I bought this house in June 2012. I called the man that put it in, his name and sticker was on the furnace said new HSI assembly (this failed when previous own was in Fl. causing the pipe in the kitchen to burst flooding half the house). I should have never bought it. Anyway He told me what he put on, I just couldn't remember, I remembered smart? then found on Internet smart valve and this is exactly what I have. All in one piece everything, glow coil, then the flame sensor and igniter and what looks like igniter pilot. it's insane. How does one clean this flame sensor that can't alone be removed? I told him in bad place, he suggested a long skinny screwdriver and try to gently scrape to clean off carbon. I had a friend over and managed to get two screws off to loosen part but in reality that burner case has to come off to really get to it. I was skeptical of using a screw driver to clean, but that's what he told me to use because it's hard to get to. The more I read the more terrified I become. Some say could be gas valve or high voltage problems, circuit boards. My God, I don't have the money. This part alone is expensive enough, it should come with warranty to last more than 4 years. I have never used the air since I've lived here, I hate air. So only really used for 2 winters and the start of this one. What puzzles me after we did this Friday eve. and he put back screws, still not cycling right. Then like I told you on other video one day it worked fine like it's suppose to for almost 4 hours, thermostat clicks, a second click off furnace within 15 seconds you hear flames then blower is on. 20 seconds then heats to temperature...etc. then off. Then it went back to long long time to ignite. Well from I want to say 9:30 - 10:30PM Friday all through Sat. I left house for 7 hours at 4:30, but when I got home 11:30PM I sat until the thermostat clicked and it still was working fine. Then just before 1:00AM it went to exhaust fan running and again long ignite time and at present the same. I don't understand. How could it work fine for so long, then again go back to bad. I'm terrified I will have to replace this all in one HSI assembly again. New in March 2011, is this all they last? Could it be a timing or something worse? If I had the money obviously would just call for service. Hopefully friend will be willing to come back to get the burner case apart to really expose this whole thing but we can't test anything else. I know he is scared he'll touch igniter, it will break then it will be shot. Why on earth would they make this all in one piece. How can one clean flame sensor properly, again without this one part being able to come off. I'm infuriated and upset. The prior owner had $$$, I don't. Sorry for the extensive comment. And just NOW it cycled normal again, Fast. Thermo clicked, you hear the second one from furnace then hear flames come on, then blower on. What is happening? Please explain what all this sounds like. Why does it work right, then back to not right? This is so confusing and upsetting. Friend thought it was thermostat to begin with, could it be this? One heating and cooling place near me said they didn't think it was this or circuit board. Could it be gas valve problem? Sequencey within the gas valve?Wire Connection?? I guess it could be anything. Like I said the more I read and come across the more terrified I become. I just don't get it. Cycling right, not cycling right. Back and forth????? Furnace says Comfortmaker RPJ II but it has Honeywell parts. Friend says this is newer furnace. Whatever, it is making this women a nervous wreck. I just now edited because I realized you answered it on other video, two things you can think of, Flame Sensor or the Gas Valve itself, the electronics are in valve. So I apologize, now I am really sick. We have nothing to test all these things. My friend isn't a furnace service person. If we can successfully get the burner plate off and clean sensor without breaking igniter but after it still runs fine then doesn't I'm in big trouble.
+Longshotsblues There is not much I can tell you. The 3 things you can do is be sure the pilot light is blue and touching the flame rod, clean the flame rod, and replace the gas valve. The intermittent nature of your problem is common for this control. You can try contacting Honeywell to see if they will help. Don't hold your breath on that one. GFM
+grayfurnaceman Thankfully got a friend of a friend who has been doing HTG and Cooling for over 20 years. Ironically it was in good run mode which is a good thing but better if bad mode for him to be here. He checked pressure said gas valve is fine, cleaned a little more of flame sensor (as I said it's in back of burners case) with screw driver, the man who put that 4 in 1 part in had also told me screwdriver as well to get to it. But today this man did not think it was even that. He is convinced it is the Pressure Switch causing it to run good then not not good. He took off one of hose and sucked trying to get any dust I guess. Anyway for your opinion not that I don't trust him, I do. He came here with a doctors bag full of things. He didn't come here for his health. He was doing me a big favor at no charge. But in your experience from all I've explained can it indeed be this pressure switch letting it run like it should, at times for a long time then all of a sudden to not running good. He said if it continued to go back to bad he could get the switch at wholesale price, again just me paying for the part he is not charging me for coming here. Hopefully it will not cease to function completely. If it go to bad again, I'm just going to have him get one. He doesn't live close, in-fact about 3 hours away. He comes down every couple of weeks about 40 miles from me. Anyway do pressure switches cause this insanity. And TY for your replies. I feel bad questioning him, he sounded like he exactly knew what he was talking about but then we get second doctors opinions.
I’m getting power to my ignitor but no glow. But if I give it 24v from transformer it glows Why won’t it work from the smart valve coming out even though it has power going to it
Hello. I have this same problem. New smart valve SV9501M2528 as well as new ignitor assembly. Replaced both 6 months ago. I have power from the board to the valve and 24v from the valve to the ignitor, and it will not glow. All other safeties and pressure switch check out ok. Is this ghost voltage im reading then?
I have a friend that has a comfortmaker HVAC system FBF075B12G1 and the gas unit will come on stay on for a moment then shut off, then the pilot will light and you can hear the solenoid actuate then click off and the pilot light will go off without lighting the main burners - I think it is the gas valve however I want to make sure before I order additional parts - your thoughts would be appreciated.
If you are sure the main gas solenoid has energized and there is no gas flow, either the gas valve has failed or there is no gas available. Hope this helps. GFM
The only thing I can think of is if the furnace is cycling too often. Filters clean, blower clean? The furnace should cycle in cool temps for between 5 and 10 minutes. If it is cycling 2 to 4 min, and the thermostat is mechanical, the anticipator is set incorrectly. Check the thermostat anticipator playlist. Hope this helps. GFM
409290c HW SV9500 Replaced smart valve and igniter, unit started to burn then cut off after approximately 5 min. Now it will not ignite but fan is working any ideas?
I used a jumper wire on the blower fan that is off to the side of the main fan and has been working perfectly. Will try to get picture up to show which connectors need to be jumped for future reference.
model #N8MPN050B12A1 Comfort Maker gas furnace with Honeywell smart Valve SV 9641m4510...Furnace lights up for 2 sec goes out, replaced smart igniter does same thing, replace smart valve, wiring harness and pilot assembly.. unit does same thing...any ideas?
Suzette Millar There is a possible pressure switch shutting off when the burners light. You can jumper the pressure switch to see if it works then. Caution: if it works, the pressure switch is not the problem. DO NOT LEAVE THE PRESSURE SWITCH JUMPERED. I would be looking for a cracked heat exchanger.GFM
I changed my gas valve and the ignitor is turning red but doesn't turn on at all now it did turn on several times but now Nothing, do you know what the problem could be thanks
The pilot is lighting and the igniter is clicking away , but no main flame . It has a new gas valve and new main board . The ignition box has also been replaced??
Comfortmaster 90 about 10 years old. Repairman diagnosed bad honeywell smart valve. I replaced and thought problem was fixed, but..on comes inducer fan, then ignitor and then pilot, but no fire. I think you call this not "proving" pilot. What do I do next?
+Jeff Stander Did he clean the flame rod on the pilot assy? They can be cleaned to get a better signal but you must be very careful not to damage the ignitor. Hope this helps. GFM
I ended up re-positioning the pilot so the flame was about 1/2" lower and now it operates much better, it was too far away and draft was affecting it, service tech thought heat exchanger had small rupture causing the pilot to be drawn into furnace and being blown out, I just moved it a bit... this was after I installed a new smart valve, the solenoid for the pilot was malfunctioning on the original one.
If you have a Honeywell smart valve, and the ignitor glows, but the pilot flame does not come on, either you have no gas available or the gas valve has failed. GFM
This is the same exact problem I am currently having (I think). I hear the click and call for heat, inducer fan starts spinning, I see the surface ignitor glow red and the pilot ALWAYS lights. About half the time the burner will ignite and stay on until the house reaches temp. 25 percent of the time it ignites but only stays on temporarily (may range from 10 minutes to an hour) and 25 percent of the time the burner won't light at all and I have to keep shutting it down and turning it on and hope that it ignites. Does this sound familiar?? Sound like I need to replace the SmartValve?@@ramonlara563
You can't beat the IFC these days I have heard that the smart valve is a good idea for it's time but they have had lots of recalls with the board that controls the hot surface ignition I've seen that happen with the ICP brands alot.
hello GFM I have a Heil furnace mid efficacy I'm having the some issue with a costumers furnace furnace is firing intermittently lights pilot most of the time burners some times (for long and short periods of time) Iv checked gas pressure 3.7, checked wiring connections all tight I'm the 2ed tech on site previous tech replaced smart valve, igniter/flame sensor combo and fan control board. now I'm in there and recommended replacement but customer has dumped a lot of money in this thing and is hoping there is something else any thoughts
Paul Rowe I got the mod#. Some of these smart valve units had problems with the inducer pulling the flame off the pilot. Mostly these things are a pain. You might try checking the restrictor plate. Hope this helps. GFM
I know this is an old video but wanted your opinion if you have time. 80% unit with smartvalve. Igniter glows, pilot comes on, all 3 burners kick on for 15 seconds and then they turn off and cycle and this repeats. Tried a new flame rod assembly and got the same result. What do you think?
@@grayfurnaceman I just found a broken exhaust pipe, the hole was hiding on the back side, pretty large. Pulled the elbow to replace and got a few inches of crispy hornets and their nest... gonna clean the exhaust and replace the elbow before the valve... Haha, wow.
exact same problem hear, pilot lights but not getting gas to burners. 24v everywhere but orange wire which I believe is the main gas voltage to open gas to burners. don't want to buy pilot assembly, then turn around and get valve. is there anything else I can check to 100 percent make sure that the flame sense is failing or just the valve?
Sorry, I missed your question. Clean the flame rod. Careful here, the hot surface ignitor is close to the flame rod on the pilot and is delicate. Hope this helps. GFM
thanks for the info, I should have mentioned I already cleaned flame rod. still does not work. I'm going to replace the flame rod igniter assembly and see if that takes care of it. I do it on Sunday. I'll let you guys know how it went. I appreciate all the feedback. thanks again to GFM
Saw a furnace just like this and it would light and run just fine. However, on one of the burners the flame could come back toward the orfice and make a little pop. Do you think that might have been a heat exchanger problem?
Please help, I have a suspended garage furnace/heater i guess, Honeywell VR8205 with an electronic igniter that supposed to come on via thermostat, gas supply is on, power is on computer board green light is flashing normal, thermostat is switched to heat and on the on position but no numbers(Temp Reading) is not displaying, nothing is coming on,can someone please help winter is coming, Thank You, Yours Truly,, Frustrated.
I have a Armstrong Furnace with a Honeywell SV9520H valve. The system will only run for about 7 minutes. It will go through 4 cycles and then stop and flash a code 6. Each cycle will be about 30 seconds of burner followed by 30-40 seconds off. The blower fan comes on.
There are only 2 parts to the smart valve system. The pilot assembly and the gas valve/flame safety control. The only other possible problem I can think of would be low gas pressure. If gas pressure is ok, (if you have other gas appliances, and they are running ok,) pressure is ok. So, short answer, probably the gas valve assembly. GFM
The flame looks a little lighter in color than it actually is. Getting a camera to reproduce a blue flame is pretty tough. If that's what you were talking about. GFM
First clean the burners. Then, if that does not work, watch the flame very closely. If ,when the fan comes on, there is any change in the flame suspect a cracked heat exchanger. Be sure when doing this, the fan cover is on. Merry Christmas. GFM
Hi GFM - I have a similar furnace. It comes on and runs ok, but the gas valve has some chatter / clicking noises. While running and close to shutting off. it clicks very fast and shuts down. Any ideas of a simple fix, or does it need a replacement (value or electronics)? Thx!
In this bad board scenario would you be able to jump 24v straight to the SV and get it to fire and run properly therefore proving the bird being the issue?
Check for voltage to the igniter- could be loose or bad wires/plugs. Compare ohm readings of hsi to recommended reading- could be bad hsi. Make sure safeties are closed, follow sequence of operations.
thanks great video i am going nuts my furnce waz working fine until burners start working intermitent until finaly die so the smart valve was replace then while disconecting the electric heaters i notice! the hsi did not turn pilot, i used a lighter and everithing works perfect am feeling like kick it hard! who knows what may be wrong may be trasformer or hsi (it glows red to softh orange ) i really feel mad at midnight when i need to manually turn it on having a hsi is wonderfull!!
+grayfurnaceman i did replace the hsi its working now- the old one did glow red but looking at ur video i notice my did not glow as much, so i did replace it and at about two seconds it turn pilot (the ohms were 3.82 at 200ohms ) so it was pretty good but good enought
Each flame stream should go to the corresponding hole, not hit the wall which causes over heating the chamber. The over heating sensor will shut the furnace down. Fix the burner!
I just ordered one yesterday for a customer. Had 120 coming in from board but was not going to inducer. Green light was on. Nothing would happen whatsoever. Will see what happens with the new valve.
Can't stand the smart valve. Had an issue with one in the field last year that was not sending voltage to the igniter. I replaced it and it worked until 5 days later. Came back out and this time the main burners weren't coming on. I cleaned the flame sensor and the main burners came on. I cycled 3 times, all fine. 2 days later, I got another call from the customer. Still a flame sense issue. I replaced the igniter and flame sensor assy. It worked for another week. Got called AGAIN and finally determined the brand new smart valve was faulty. A month later, I had another faulty brand new one. I wish honeywell would pay for my time and gas driving back and forth to the supply house. These both were the 4510 model.
@@grayfurnaceman Finally took it apart today. Found a black piece of ribbed hard brittle piece lodged in the burner. Cleaned everything well. Put back together. Now when it fires it makes a tiny peutt noise. Since new ,it's never been that quiet. Thank you very much. 😃
+Andrew Ramos I would use a match or lighter placed close to where the pilot gas comes out of the pilot. It should either light or the lighter flame should be ruffled from the gas flow. No flow, check the orifice in the pilot. GFM
So much information in just 3 minutes. Got to watch the video like 100 times
Hey, thanks for all of your great vids! Lots of well explained info. I replaced HSI after breaking the old one while trying to clean. My pilot light would still not light. I did lots of little trouble shooting (exhaust vent clear, drain lines clear, sucked on hose going to pressure switch, etc.) and still got Soft Lockout code. I called in HVAC guy and he tested voltages and figured it was the smart valve. In a last attempt after he left, I unhooked the pilot line that goes into the gas valve. powered up and after inducer moter was on heard click on valve, then propane came out of that port. Shut down and took the pilot assembly out, removes HSI and blew compressed air through the pilot line and stick a needle down the flame end. Back together and all fired up as supposed to! Thanks GFM!!
rushangus Glad it worked
GFM
GFM - Thanks for the videos. They have proven quite useful. Adding this story to the thread for two reasons: 1) so that others that may have similar symptoms have an idea what to look for/check and 2) to request your input on whether I have over-fixed my issue. :-)
Symptoms:
#1. Loud, irregular clicking in the gas line leading into the furnace when the furnace is attempting to heat.
#2. Furnace cycling - all 4 burners ignite, remain lit for 20-30 seconds, then shutdown. HSI heats up, pilot lights, burners don't lite... just a brief "puff" of gas being ignited. Repeat another 2 times for a total of 4 attempts, then the unit goes into safety shutdown. During each attempt to ignite, the clicking sound in the gas pipe can be heard.
IFC error code: 6 flashes + 2 flashes
Attempts to troubleshoot:
1. My Arcoaire has one of the integrated flame sensor/HSI/pilot assemblies (awful design when it comes to cleaning/repair). I used a very fine emery board to clean the flame sensor, being very careful not to touch the HSI. Reattached the unit...same results.
2. Contacted local gas utility to test pressure at the meter. Confirmed pressure was below normal, but not significant. Gas tech adjusted pressure accordingly. Initiated call for heat... same results.
3. Pressure switches appeared to be operating properly, but I didn't jumper them to test (in hindsight, I should have done this).
At this point I opted to call in a professional. We discussed the issue and he did some troubleshooting. He indicated that the Honeywell Smart Valve solenoid was failing/had failed. Sadly, a $300+ part. He replaced the valve and the unit began to operate (and the multiple clicks heard in the pipe ceased).
About 1 hour later, the unit stopped working again. This time the IFC has 3 LED flashes... indicating a pressure switch issue. Tech came back and determined that the condensate line was plugged. Cleared that out and things started working again. All has been fine since then.
The question I have is, given the condensate line blockage, could that have been the actual root cause, meaning the smart valve replacement was unnecessary?
Thanks,
Brian
+Brian Pearson I don't think so. These controls had a lot of problems with the circuit board in the gas valve. They would make intermittent contact which would cause the problem you have described.
GFM
If the pilot is yellow and lazy, I would clean the pilot assembly. You can adjust but it will probably not help. And yes the adjustment screw is under the phillips cap. Hope this helps.
GFM
I don't think there was a flame rollout with that furnace. But the fan door was off. I agree the smart valve was not the best idea but sometimes we don't have the option of actually replacing the furnace and we do have to repair. Thanks for the comment.
GFM
Does the inducer motor come on? Can the pilot be lit with a match? If it lights with a match, the HSI has probably failed. Hope this helps.
GFM
The problem I'm having was the pilot would not light at first so I replace the pilot assembly after that the pilot would light but 20 seconds later the glow stick would glow again and then shut down never firing up the Jets. I ordered a used gas valve hoping that would correct the problem but I'm having the same issue. I changed the transformer because I noticed a power drop when it glowed thinking it wasn't getting enough voltage but that didn't correct it either. After seeing your video I'm thinking I might have a bad pilot assembly that's not sending the signal back to the gas valve letting the valve know it's lit. Hoping to find out before I order a new gas valve thinking I got a bad one.
I dont know of any am stand furnaces that used the smart valve. Is there a pilot tube? If not, it is a direct ignition where the main burner is lit by the HSI. If the HSI comes on and the burner does not come on, Look for gas supply problem, If all valves are on, you have a problem with either gas valve or control board. Hope this helps. Let me know.
GFM
I have a standing pilot furnace. I replaced the bad gas valve. The new one was different from the obsolete original. At first it lit ok. 2 weeks in, now there is a violent explosion when the burners light. What could be the cause?
First, be sure the gas input matches the model plate info. If ok, watch the ignition from the pilot. Does the pilot light any of the burners? Does the gas valve energize but nothing ignites? Partial ignition could mean dirty burners/ flame spreaders. Is the pilot located close to the burner?
GFM
If you have cleaned the flame rod on the pilot, and it still does not work, the valve assembly has failed. Be careful cleaning the flame rod as the HSI is right there an d is easy to break. Hope this helps.
GFM
I'm getting 4 flashes on my SV9541. According to the troubleshooting chart, the limit switch is open. Everything ignites and the burners come on, but it short cycles before getting to desired temp. I also notice that the stick igniter steadily glows throughout the whole heating cycle and does not shut off Do I need to replace the smart valve? Help please it's cold in here lol!!
Replace it.
GFM
thanks alan johnson, well after my commens, I remove the polite flame rod off and seen that it looks new (but i know its not) i cleaned it , an put back on and was going to repairman , but tried it again and is working fine. thanks for responce
Problem with ignition on timing ended up being the gas valve. Replaced valve and furnace functions correctly. Thanks guys.
Question I have a Honeywell SV9501M2528 if I put the IGNITION SYSTEM CONTROL SWITCH to the off position my hot surface ignitor lights up but of course pilot & burner do not light, the switch being off prevents that, But then when I switch it to on inductor fan kicks on but hot surface ignitor never starts glowing? Is my Smart valve bad or could it be something else?
thanks..
The smart valve assembly has probably failed. The entire assembly must be replaced.
GFM
Thanks for this video. Helped me figure out that my pilot line was plugged up. It wasn't allowing the propane to get through and light. All I was getting was the glow and no fire. I removed the line hit it lightly with some compressed air and reinstalled. fired up the first time. Your video allowed me to see how it should look when functioning properly. Thanks again.
Welcome
GFM
Having trouble with a HEIL DC90, it short cycles. Everything works but it will only run about 5 mins Max, then just runs inducer till it fires again. Cleaned and checked but didn't understand flame sensor part with gas line Soo assumed it was rollout and cracked exchanger. Now think I need to try and clean the flame sensor which I still don't see what part it is
How can you check flame sensor in this thing?
You can't. It was designed as a cheaper ignition control that is essentially throw away.
GFM
so if the ignitor comes on and so does the pilot, but the main burner never comes on, is the ignitor failing or the actual valve? or what? thank you
My furnace light the pilot then doesn't light the main burner. I replaced the flame sensor assembly thinking that's what it was and that did not work. Any suggestions?
I think I need to adjust my pilot flame, it will fluctuate many times until it stays lit when furnace is cold, if multiple restarts in morning to bring up temps it will light every time, after an overnight cool cycle that first time it takes multiple attempts and just HSI will be glowing and draft fan running. Manual says remove cap to access adjustment, only saw phillips screw with gasket near pilot feed, is that the cap they refer to?
The troubleshoot is pretty much if the ignitor lights the pilot and the main burner does not come on with a new pilot assembly, the valve has failed. You might check the plug going into valve for tight. Also make sure all ground wires are tight. There is a youtube vid on repairing the electronics, but I am reluctant to get that involved. There can be safety issues. As for gunk in the line, it would take a lot of gunk. Unfortunately, smart valves have a reputation for failure.
GFM
American Standard Freedom 80 Single Stage furnace model AUD060C936K3, does it come with a smart valve?
When I turn on the heat, I can see the igniter glow red hot for about 20 seconds, but I don't see the spark click or gas valve open.
Gfm, hey I'm working on an icp furnace everything checks out but main burners only stay lit between 5 and 10 seconds..I cleaned everything on pilot assembly with steel wool but still doesn't go.
If the unit has an electric pilot and the pilot moves away from the flame rod after the burners light, you may need to shield the pilot assembly to keep the flame on the flame rod. You could also have a failing ignition control.
GFM
So, I got a furnace that is lighting the pilot but the main burners never light. Gas valve?
@@brokensmile8487 Most failures of this type can be traced to failure to sense flame. If there is a flame rod in the pilot flame be sure the flame is blue and covering the flame rod. You could also clean the flame rod with sandpaper.
GFM
@grayfurnaceman I just want to say, your videos are great and they've helped tremendously.
What is the best way to check these flame sensor on these smart valves? Is it the same process as other flame sensors?
@@brokensmile8487 You can't check the performance of the flame rod. You can clean it but be careful, the hot surface ignitor is very close and fragile.
Now, for probable reality. The control inside the gas valve assembly has probably failed. Means a new assembly.
GFM
@grayfurnaceman I guess they have a harness you can hook up to the igniter port on the gas valve and runs it in series with the igniter assembly and that will check the performance. There is also a harness for the control side. They are 150 dollars though. I ended up cleaning the flame sensor and all is good. The harness would be a good investment considering a gas valve could be replaced when the flame sensor could be the culprit.
Having a issue with this smart valve, pilot lights main burners come on and stays on for a few minutes blower doesn't run until after the main burners go out, then repeats sequence, GFM what do you think could be the issue?
If the burners are on more than 45 seconds before the fan comes on, the fan board is not operating properly. Probably needs replacement.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman thanks for the feed back was leaning towards a board issue, really appreciate the response back.
I was having issues a few months ago - HSI was not coming on. Service company came, replaced pilot assembly, everything worked fine. Now I'm having the same issue - thermostat calls for heat, HSI will not come on. I can light the pilot with a lighter at that point, and the furnace will kick on, but it won't light on its own. Can you think of a reason why I would have two HSIs go bad in a span of a few months?
My hsi turn on but pilot valve not open I change gas valve but same problem
Pilot lights than goes out immediately,then repeats.Please share your thoughts.
Do you have gas supply? Other gas appliances work ok?
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman yes have gas pilots comes on and goes out than comes on and goes out over and over. Thought rectification problem cleaned sensor,checked ground and polarity.Hell I even checked phasing of transformer.I was thinking bad smart valve but not 100 percent sure.Was hoping you could guide me on this one.
@@grayfurnaceman and yes other gas appliances working fine
@@robertcherry4971 That's almost certainly the gas valve. It comes as an assembly.
GFM
Question:
1 of the burners on my SEER 13 Bryant HVAC is not lighting - off until after several automatic starts (e.g., 3-10 attempts).
Cleaned rods between nozzles & combustion chamber.
The Right assembly has 2 rods (ignition source?) , center nozzle has no rod. Left nozzle has 1 rod (flame sensor?).
Unfortunately, Left nozzle takes several automatic light off attempts to fire up.
What Is the likely problem?
Thanks!
Tim
I have a Smart Valve SV950M 2056. Turn on furnace , you hear the valve open and sometimes the the burners light and sometimes they don"t. Shutoff the stat and turn back on and it will light. All wire connections look ok check all i could. Do i need a new valve?
David Campagnola Probably. If the pilot proves, and the gas valve does not open, the assembly has failed.
GFM
I am dealing with a ultra 90 that ignites but I don't believe the main gas line is coming on because the burners do not light. but the fan will come on and just blow air which is cold do to the burning not lighting.. any suggestions
+Omar Hill If the pilot comes on but no main gas, the flame rod may be dirty. You can clean it with sandpaper but be very careful. There is a small hot surface ignitor close to it that is easily broken. Hope this helps.
GFM
I've just replaced the smart valve on my furnace, and I can get it to light, but the pilot flame is larger than it should be, it's more yellow flame, and isn't getting all sucked up by the fan , causing it to start to burn the furnace up. On the smart valve there's a pilot flame adjuster, but we either adjust it to too big, or too small, and it can't light. Are we missing anything? We're replacing the pilot gas tube assembly today, hoping that's it. We noticed a small kink in the aluminum tube for the pilot, not sure if that's affecting it.
+Matt Spaulding I would clean the pilot assembly. The yellow indicates a dirty pilot. Be careful not to damage the the hot surface ignitor. Hope this helps.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman Again, what do we clean it with? A rag, sandpaper, steel wool, alcohol. vinger?
+Whatatay T Sandpaper will do.
GFM
Can u adjust the pilot? Had one burning the top cabinet!
Most gas valve have a pilot adjustment screw.
GFM
I have a Comfortmaker model ntg9075fga2 (dated 1997) with Honeywell smart valve. The system does not heat but I can see the HSI glowing but no flame in the pilot. I cleaned the HSI and the pressure switch is good and I can hear the gas valve click but no flame either in the pilot or in the main chamber. Is the gas valve bad? The draft inducer works fine and if I put the thermostat in Fan ON, the blower works well too. All the pressure switch ports are in good condition. I also have a gas water heater next to the furnace. It works no problem. It seems there is no gas flow to the furnace burner. Please help.
David
+David Li Assuming that gas is available, the valve has probably failed.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman
Thank you very much for your response. After watching your another video "A look at Smart Valve operation", I realized that the tube from the gas valve to the pilot burner may be bad. I took it out last night and found out that at the tip of the tube, there is a corn shaped valve (.25 in by .5 in). It stuck to the tube wall due to the condensation and rust. I cleaned the tube and get rid of the rust. After reassemble the HSI unit, the system works fine. The gas valve is good. However without your video, I would not think about the clog of the HSI gas supply line.
Your videos are very good and thanks a lot for your excellent videos. I think many people have learn a lot and save a bunch of money from our video.
+David Li Welcome
GFM
I have problem with Fan running continuously and no light on LED on honeywell smart valve. Replaced fan control board and didn't fix it. limit switches show continuity. Is this a smart valve problem needing replacement?
Original Honeywell gas valve was replaced with a new Honeywell vr8304m3509 and Original Honeywell Ignition Control Board S8610U3009 was also replace. Everything looks to be wire correctly 24v coming into Ignition Control Board. Still have no pilot. The gas valve only has on and off no pilot markings.
I checked the spark wire with my meter looks ok. Only thing I didn't change yet is pilot unit. Q: Do I have to light up gas pilot with a matches or should it light on it's own. HELP PLEASE, thanks in advance
Are you getting a spark?
GFM
How do you look for control voltage problem?
I did a couple of videos on low voltage troubleshooting that may help: ua-cam.com/video/eBYunyrImf0/v-deo.html
GFM
question, I have a sv9500 gas valve, when hsi glows the main burners immediately lite and it pops back,,,, no pilot and flame sense first !!!! I'm thinking the gas valve has failed.... what is your opinion?
I think I would get rid of that one immediately! Very dangerous.
GFM
Sounds like a bad heat exchanger. Its kind of like running your car in an inclosed garage. Call a repairman for conformation.
grayfurnaceman I was on your other video, this is what I have. Smart valve with glow coil, then the flame sensor and igniter and what looks like igniter pilot. And it is Behind the burner casing. This was replaced on March 21, 2011 before I bought this house in June 2012. I called the man that put it in, his name and sticker was on the furnace said new HSI assembly (this failed when previous own was in Fl. causing the pipe in the kitchen to burst flooding half the house). I should have never bought it. Anyway He told me what he put on, I just couldn't remember, I remembered smart? then found on Internet smart valve and this is exactly what I have. All in one piece everything, glow coil, then the flame sensor and igniter and what looks like igniter pilot. it's insane. How does one clean this flame sensor that can't alone be removed?
I told him in bad place, he suggested a long skinny screwdriver and try to gently scrape to clean off carbon. I had a friend over and managed to get two screws off to loosen part but in reality that burner case has to come off to really get to it. I was skeptical of using a screw driver to clean, but that's what he told me to use because it's hard to get to. The more I read the more terrified I become. Some say could be gas valve or high voltage problems, circuit boards. My God, I don't have the money. This part alone is expensive enough, it should come with warranty to last more than 4 years. I have never used the air since I've lived here, I hate air. So only really used for 2 winters and the start of this one.
What puzzles me after we did this Friday eve. and he put back screws, still not cycling right. Then like I told you on other video one day it worked fine like it's suppose to for almost 4 hours, thermostat clicks, a second click off furnace within 15 seconds you hear flames then blower is on. 20 seconds then heats to temperature...etc. then off. Then it went back to long long time to ignite. Well from I want to say 9:30 - 10:30PM Friday all through Sat. I left house for 7 hours at 4:30, but when I got home 11:30PM I sat until the thermostat clicked and it still was working fine. Then just before 1:00AM it went to exhaust fan running and again long ignite time and at present the same.
I don't understand. How could it work fine for so long, then again go back to bad. I'm terrified I will have to replace this all in one HSI assembly again. New in March 2011, is this all they last? Could it be a timing or something worse? If I had the money obviously would just call for service. Hopefully friend will be willing to come back to get the burner case apart to really expose this whole thing but we can't test anything else. I know he is scared he'll touch igniter, it will break then it will be shot. Why on earth would they make this all in one piece. How can one clean flame sensor properly, again without this one part being able to come off. I'm infuriated and upset. The prior owner had $$$, I don't. Sorry for the extensive comment. And just NOW it cycled normal again, Fast. Thermo clicked, you hear the second one from furnace then hear flames come on, then blower on.
What is happening? Please explain what all this sounds like. Why does it work right, then back to not right? This is so confusing and upsetting. Friend thought it was thermostat to begin with, could it be this? One heating and cooling place near me said they didn't think it was this or circuit board. Could it be gas valve problem? Sequencey within the gas valve?Wire Connection?? I guess it could be anything. Like I said the more I read and come across the more terrified I become.
I just don't get it. Cycling right, not cycling right. Back and forth?????
Furnace says Comfortmaker RPJ II but it has Honeywell parts. Friend says this is newer furnace. Whatever, it is making this women a nervous wreck.
I just now edited because I realized you answered it on other video, two things you can think of, Flame Sensor or the Gas Valve itself, the electronics are in valve. So I apologize, now I am really sick. We have nothing to test all these things. My friend isn't a furnace service person. If we can successfully get the burner plate off and clean sensor without breaking igniter but after it still runs fine then doesn't I'm in big trouble.
+Longshotsblues There is not much I can tell you. The 3 things you can do is be sure the pilot light is blue and touching the flame rod, clean the flame rod, and replace the gas valve. The intermittent nature of your problem is common for this control. You can try contacting Honeywell to see if they will help. Don't hold your breath on that one.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman Thankfully got a friend of a friend who has been doing HTG and Cooling for over 20 years. Ironically it was in good run mode which is a good thing but better if bad mode for him to be here. He checked pressure said gas valve is fine, cleaned a little more of flame sensor (as I said it's in back of burners case) with screw driver, the man who put that 4 in 1 part in had also told me screwdriver as well to get to it. But today this man did not think it was even that. He is convinced it is the Pressure Switch causing it to run good then not not good. He took off one of hose and sucked trying to get any dust I guess. Anyway for your opinion not that I don't trust him, I do. He came here with a doctors bag full of things. He didn't come here for his health. He was doing me a big favor at no charge. But in your experience from all I've explained can it indeed be this pressure switch letting it run like it should, at times for a long time then all of a sudden to not running good. He said if it continued to go back to bad he could get the switch at wholesale price, again just me paying for the part he is not charging me for coming here. Hopefully it will not cease to function completely. If it go to bad again, I'm just going to have him get one. He doesn't live close, in-fact about 3 hours away. He comes down every couple of weeks about 40 miles from me. Anyway do pressure switches cause this insanity. And TY for your replies. I feel bad questioning him, he sounded like he exactly knew what he was talking about but then we get second doctors opinions.
+Longshotsblues A pressure switch could cause the problem.
GFM
Could there be gunk in the line where I put the valve in?
I’m getting power to my ignitor but no glow.
But if I give it 24v from transformer it glows
Why won’t it work from the smart valve coming out even though it has power going to it
You probably have a ghost voltage from the control. Voltage but no amperage. Common failure in smart valves. Replace the valve system.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman thank you
Hello. I have this same problem. New smart valve SV9501M2528 as well as new ignitor assembly. Replaced both 6 months ago. I have power from the board to the valve and 24v from the valve to the ignitor, and it will not glow. All other safeties and pressure switch check out ok. Is this ghost voltage im reading then?
I have a friend that has a comfortmaker HVAC system FBF075B12G1 and the gas unit will come on stay on for a moment then shut off, then the pilot will light and you can hear the solenoid actuate then click off and the pilot light will go off without lighting the main burners - I think it is the gas valve however I want to make sure before I order additional parts - your thoughts would be appreciated.
If you are sure the main gas solenoid has energized and there is no gas flow, either the gas valve has failed or there is no gas available. Hope this helps.
GFM
Thanks I ordered a new valve
Your videos are great
Thanks for your help
The only thing I can think of is if the furnace is cycling too often. Filters clean, blower clean? The furnace should cycle in cool temps for between 5 and 10 minutes. If it is cycling 2 to 4 min, and the thermostat is mechanical, the anticipator is set incorrectly. Check the thermostat anticipator playlist. Hope this helps.
GFM
409290c HW SV9500 Replaced smart valve and igniter, unit started to burn then cut off after approximately 5 min. Now it will not ignite but fan is working any ideas?
Rhett Cody Is there a manual rest rollout switch open? They usually have a red button.
GFM
I used a jumper wire on the blower fan that is off to the side of the main fan and has been working perfectly. Will try to get picture up to show which connectors need to be jumped for future reference.
model #N8MPN050B12A1 Comfort Maker gas furnace with Honeywell smart Valve SV 9641m4510...Furnace lights up for 2 sec goes out, replaced smart igniter does same thing, replace smart valve, wiring harness and pilot assembly.. unit does same thing...any ideas?
Suzette Millar There is a possible pressure switch shutting off when the burners light. You can jumper the pressure switch to see if it works then. Caution: if it works, the pressure switch is not the problem. DO NOT LEAVE THE PRESSURE SWITCH JUMPERED. I would be looking for a cracked heat exchanger.GFM
The pressure switch port on inducer was partially clogged, shutting off burners when lit. Cleaned port unit working now..
Thanks very much!!!
I changed my gas valve and the ignitor is turning red but doesn't turn on at all now it did turn on several times but now Nothing, do you know what the problem could be thanks
Does your system use the Honeywell smart valve?
GFM
I replaced my gas valve and still no joy . It lite off once and never again . The pilot lights and the igniter klicks but no main flame ???
The flame rod in the pilot assembly could be dirty. Clean with sandpaper. Very careful, you can break the HSI.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman cleaned with some sand paper but still no joy
The pilot is lighting and the igniter is clicking away , but no main flame . It has a new gas valve and new main board . The ignition box has also been replaced??
Comfortmaster 90 about 10 years old. Repairman diagnosed bad honeywell smart valve. I replaced and thought problem was fixed, but..on comes inducer fan, then ignitor and then pilot, but no fire. I think you call this not "proving" pilot. What do I do next?
+Jeff Stander Did he clean the flame rod on the pilot assy? They can be cleaned to get a better signal but you must be very careful not to damage the ignitor. Hope this helps.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman What do you clean it with? A rag, sandpaper, steel wool, alcohol?
+Whatatay T Sandpaper will do. Very careful of the glow stick. It is delicate.
GFM
I ended up re-positioning the pilot so the flame was about 1/2" lower and now it operates much better, it was too far away and draft was affecting it, service tech thought heat exchanger had small rupture causing the pilot to be drawn into furnace and being blown out, I just moved it a bit... this was after I installed a new smart valve, the solenoid for the pilot was malfunctioning on the original one.
My igniter comes on but my burners won't do you think I have a bad gas valve
If you have a Honeywell smart valve, and the ignitor glows, but the pilot flame does not come on, either you have no gas available or the gas valve has failed.
GFM
grayfurnaceman my ignator comes on and my flame to but my burners won't if I light them by hand they will but not strong
Sounds like a bad gas valve to me.
GFM
grayfurnaceman I thank you for all your information
This is the same exact problem I am currently having (I think). I hear the click and call for heat, inducer fan starts spinning, I see the surface ignitor glow red and the pilot ALWAYS lights. About half the time the burner will ignite and stay on until the house reaches temp. 25 percent of the time it ignites but only stays on temporarily (may range from 10 minutes to an hour) and 25 percent of the time the burner won't light at all and I have to keep shutting it down and turning it on and hope that it ignites. Does this sound familiar?? Sound like I need to replace the SmartValve?@@ramonlara563
Can the main valve sometimes come on at same time as the pilot?
No. If the unit has an intermittent pilot, the pilot must prove before main gas can come on. You could have a stuck gas valve.
GFM
I have seen smart valves on 90% furnaces.
You can't beat the IFC these days I have heard that the smart valve is a good idea for it's time but they have had lots of recalls with the board that controls the hot surface ignition I've seen that happen with the ICP brands alot.
hello GFM I have a Heil furnace mid efficacy I'm having the some issue with a costumers furnace
furnace is firing intermittently lights pilot most of the time burners some times (for long and short periods of time) Iv checked gas pressure 3.7, checked wiring connections all tight
I'm the 2ed tech on site previous tech replaced smart valve, igniter/flame sensor combo and fan control board. now I'm in there and recommended replacement but customer has dumped a lot of money in this thing and is hoping there is something else any thoughts
Paul Rowe Is it an 80% or 90%?
GFM
Paul Rowe I got the mod#. Some of these smart valve units had problems with the inducer pulling the flame off the pilot. Mostly these things are a pain. You might try checking the restrictor plate. Hope this helps.
GFM
grayfurnaceman 80%
I know this is an old video but wanted your opinion if you have time. 80% unit with smartvalve. Igniter glows, pilot comes on, all 3 burners kick on for 15 seconds and then they turn off and cycle and this repeats. Tried a new flame rod assembly and got the same result. What do you think?
This is probably a failure of the gas valve assembly.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman thats what I was afraid of. Oh well, cheaper than a new furnace but my next one will absolutely not be smart valve. Thank you!
@@grayfurnaceman I just found a broken exhaust pipe, the hole was hiding on the back side, pretty large. Pulled the elbow to replace and got a few inches of crispy hornets and their nest... gonna clean the exhaust and replace the elbow before the valve... Haha, wow.
Ended up being a completely blocked vacuum port on the induction motor. Thanks!
hello, can you help the pilot comes on for about 90 sec. then shuts down, (pilot fails to prove) ? main gas does not start at all,
exact same problem hear, pilot lights but not getting gas to burners. 24v everywhere but orange wire which I believe is the main gas voltage to open gas to burners. don't want to buy pilot assembly, then turn around and get valve. is there anything else I can check to 100 percent make sure that the flame sense is failing or just the valve?
Sorry, I missed your question. Clean the flame rod. Careful here, the hot surface ignitor is close to the flame rod on the pilot and is delicate. Hope this helps.
GFM
Clean the flame rod on the pilot. Careful, the hot surface ignitor is very close and is delicate.
GFM
i did clean the flame rod, and it works great thanks
thanks for the info, I should have mentioned I already cleaned flame rod. still does not work. I'm going to replace the flame rod igniter assembly and see if that takes care of it. I do it on Sunday. I'll let you guys know how it went. I appreciate all the feedback. thanks again to GFM
Saw a furnace just like this and it would light and run just fine. However, on one of the burners the flame could come back toward the orfice and make a little pop. Do you think that might have been a heat exchanger problem?
Worst part is I replaced the gas valve last year. Do you have a video on how to test it. It's a heil by the way about 15 yrs old.
Please help, I have a suspended garage furnace/heater i guess, Honeywell VR8205 with an electronic igniter that supposed to come on via thermostat, gas supply is on, power is on computer board green light is flashing normal, thermostat is switched to heat and on the on position but no numbers(Temp Reading) is not displaying, nothing is coming on,can someone please help winter is coming, Thank You, Yours Truly,, Frustrated.
I have a Armstrong Furnace with a Honeywell SV9520H valve. The system will only run for about 7 minutes. It will go through 4 cycles and then stop and flash a code 6. Each cycle will be about 30 seconds of burner followed by 30-40 seconds off. The blower fan comes on.
There are only 2 parts to the smart valve system. The pilot assembly and the gas valve/flame safety control. The only other possible problem I can think of would be low gas pressure. If gas pressure is ok, (if you have other gas appliances, and they are running ok,) pressure is ok. So, short answer, probably the gas valve assembly.
GFM
The flame looks a little lighter in color than it actually is. Getting a camera to reproduce a blue flame is pretty tough. If that's what you were talking about.
GFM
my furnace kicks on i can hear it come on and the air coming through but there is no pilot light. how do i fix it?
I need a lot more than that. Gas furnace? How old, manufacturer, model number.
GFM
First clean the burners. Then, if that does not work, watch the flame very closely. If ,when the fan comes on, there is any change in the flame suspect a cracked heat exchanger. Be sure when doing this, the fan cover is on. Merry Christmas.
GFM
Hi GFM - I have a similar furnace. It comes on and runs ok, but the gas valve has some chatter / clicking noises. While running and close to shutting off. it clicks very fast and shuts down. Any ideas of a simple fix, or does it need a replacement (value or electronics)? Thx!
Mostly, that is a control board failure or thecoznncetions from the gas valve to the board. Hope this helps.
GFM
In this bad board scenario would you be able to jump 24v straight to the SV and get it to fire and run properly therefore proving the bird being the issue?
The flame has an interesting look when it shoots into the heat exchanger
how many volts is the HSI getting
It runs on 24 volts.
I have no igniter glow at all. Replace valve and still nothing. Have 24 volt to valve in, but nothing to pilot even after replacing valve
Check for voltage to the igniter- could be loose or bad wires/plugs. Compare ohm readings of hsi to recommended reading- could be bad hsi. Make sure safeties are closed, follow sequence of operations.
thanks great video i am going nuts my furnce waz working fine until burners start working intermitent until finaly die so the smart valve was replace then while disconecting the electric heaters i notice! the hsi did not turn pilot, i used a lighter and everithing works perfect am feeling like kick it hard! who knows what may be wrong may be trasformer or hsi (it glows red to softh orange ) i really feel mad at midnight when i need to manually turn it on having a hsi is wonderfull!!
+Pedro Flores I would try cleaning the pilot assembly. Be careful around the HSI, it is fragile. Hope this helps.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman i did replace the hsi its working now- the old one did glow red but looking at ur video i notice my did not glow as much, so i did replace it and at about two seconds it turn pilot (the ohms were 3.82 at 200ohms ) so it was pretty good but good enought
Each flame stream should go to the corresponding hole, not hit the wall which causes over heating the chamber. The over heating sensor will shut the furnace down. Fix the burner!
The ignitor was broken I replaced it with a new one and I bought a new smartvalve and nothing.
Is there power to the smart valve?
I just ordered one yesterday for a customer. Had 120 coming in from board but was not going to inducer. Green light was on. Nothing would happen whatsoever. Will see what happens with the new valve.
My igniter is not glowing
First, check continuity of the ignitor.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman ended up being the pressure switch.
Can't stand the smart valve. Had an issue with one in the field last year that was not sending voltage to the igniter. I replaced it and it worked until 5 days later. Came back out and this time the main burners weren't coming on. I cleaned the flame sensor and the main burners came on. I cycled 3 times, all fine. 2 days later, I got another call from the customer. Still a flame sense issue. I replaced the igniter and flame sensor assy. It worked for another week. Got called AGAIN and finally determined the brand new smart valve was faulty. A month later, I had another faulty brand new one. I wish honeywell would pay for my time and gas driving back and forth to the supply house. These both were the 4510 model.
I agree with your condemnation of the smart valve.
GFM
thanks for sharing...
That was it!!! Thanks
+Jeff Stander Glad it helped.
GFM
i'm a fan
I get a boom in mine once and in awhile.
That's probably a delayed ignition. Start with cleaning the burners and pilot assembly.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman
Will do ty
@@grayfurnaceman
Finally took it apart today. Found a black piece of ribbed hard brittle piece lodged in the burner. Cleaned everything well. Put back together. Now when it fires it makes a tiny peutt noise. Since new ,it's never been that quiet. Thank you very much. 😃
Anything under 1 amp and ignitor is bad amp meter is better the trying to light it
yes ,
Are you sure the gas is turned on?
GFM
+grayfurnaceman yes sir , it seems to me like it's not sucking out the gas
Have you checked to see if there is flow through the pilot tube?
GFM
+grayfurnaceman how do I do that
+Andrew Ramos I would use a match or lighter placed close to where the pilot gas comes out of the pilot. It should either light or the lighter flame should be ruffled from the gas flow. No flow, check the orifice in the pilot.
GFM
Mine won't even come on. All I hear is a click. I
In Canada I must say I cannot believe what I just paid for one of these. 850 Bucks. SV9641... Rip off.
Sounds like you paid list +.
GFM
mod H8Mpn100F14A1 Manufacture date aug 2004
Nothing smart about a smart valve!!!! LOL
T&N Services LLC. That is true.
But it did work fine all last winter. I'm stumped.