This is why people hate building PCs these days
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- Опубліковано 7 тра 2023
- Getting ready to build a watercooled PC? Keep these things in mind!
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The inevitable "my friend shattered the glass when closing it after cleaning" video is going to be absolute gold!
@Lurch it'll become a test bench and *probably* be better off
So, we hate tempered glass now?
Give it five years, the trend will finally die...
Only for people to crave it once more!
@@pieceofschmidtgamer there's no way we'd go back to solid panels other like fine meshes/screens so I'd say it's here to stay unless we go to open air cases
Man how the fuck am I going to ship that by the way
Let us say in theory you were moving in a year. How are you going to ship your computer? I've seen so many horror stories of prebuilts and I've got multiple hard drives on top of that, yes ship btw because literally mailing it to myself seems cheaper.
@@pandemicneetbux2110 send the computer and take the glass separate :tm: also TG is stronger than a lot of people think. It's rarely the thing broken when pcs getting shipping damage, actually.
Daughter walks in ,"Hey Dad who you talking to?" As Im telling you to use the MSI board. I think it looks great.
Dragon gang lessssgooooooo 🤣
She thinks pop's a little over the hill 🤣
@@brahtrumpwonbigly7309 My rig is.
@@Superagent666 I actually have an Asus board. But the Msi just looked right.
@@floydwegienka6582 Asus has just taken L after L recently
I absolutely love when these kind of videos include largely uncut segments of the thought process. It feels more real and less like a problem-free tutorial.
does gpu sag piss you off?
I love the time when motherboards had three standard sizes and they would just fit in any case of the correct standard and bigger cases.
Then you have Dell and HP purposely making standoff locations a non standardized size so you CANT use their case with aftermarket parts.
that sort of anti consumer practice should be illegal lmao @@southpark159753
@@southpark159753 Jokes on them, I never wanted to use their trash cases
Outside of certain server makers, they still for the most part do.
@@southpark159753 That's why we have drills, tappers, spare wires/connectors, and stand-offs. Then what you just described is no problem at all.
This is EXACTLY the kind of videos I love. The planning and problem solving that nobody records because it's either annoying or people think nobody wants to watch it is my favorite thing to watch.
Well personally I wish they would >> through his decision monologues and just summarize what he is gonna do and why, instead of us having to sit through his brainstorming. Nothing is as irritating as someone else's indecisiveness.
@@Firepulserhe's monologuing because this is what goes through anyone's mind when making decisions, his advantage is he's got all that gear to try out whereas we're just left with a what if. The monologue is an essential part of this video. Just skip to the end
DMC 2 sucks like Dark Souls 2 sucks!!
@@Edd211 Dark Souls 2 definitely did not suck. If you found it too hard try a magic build or walkthrough. You are sooooooooo missing out on some amazing bosses, environments and experiences. I honestly almost feel sorrow for you if you end up missing out. BTW, I've played all From Software games.
Oh yeah, try fitting a USB 3.0 case cable to the side mounted port on an ATX board in a mid tower case when the drive cages can't be removed.
the reservoir needs to have an E-tank image on it. This will make your friend happy, trust me.
Yes, this.
Hope Jay sees this, that is such a good idea!
Commenting to help him notice
After buying all the components, a friend of mine got sick of case shopping and mounted the motherboard, power supply, and hard drives on his bedroom wall with standoffs. He also had a box fan always on blowing on the computer. To make it glow, he put led lighting behind each component. Looked really unique once finished.
Also makes upgrades easier than ever. I like it.
If I were to make a "desktop" computer, that's what I'd do too. But I doubt I'd buy anything but a laptop now because I like to take my computer with me.
I need to see what this looks like
@@quillaja You do serious gaming outside of the home?
@@bricaaron3978 More likely needs a laptop and would rather invest in a good laptop over a PC. Different needs.
I think this type of video is my most favorite one. Because all the thinking how you could do this and that and which parts you could use and what not is also something my mind crosses so often when looking at my PC and seeing that while fitting parts live inside a case is something that, especially for me, starts the mentioned thinking process what to do and how to do it next. Great video and as always, keep up the great work!
I love it. You asked for suggestions, but I have question/suggestion - a suquestion… Is there a smaller version of the mega man figurine? I feel like a smaller figurine would make the case feel more like a bigger mega man level (if you do the pipes like you said)
So much fun watching this series. Can’t wait to see how it ends up!
Make separate loops, one red one blue
actual simp
Ok so for the mega man question mega man figures are really rare and expensive so I think the smallest will be the 1 inch or darts/4 inch nel and they would cost u a 100+
As a Megaman fan it would be sick if the reservoir could look like an E Tank from the games (specifically from the X games). I understand that it’s a huge amount of effort, but I think that would blow your friend’s mind.
3D printer go brrrrrr hahaha
Or even one of the upgrade capsules. That would be exceptional
It was great hearing your story about the tube popping off. I need to fix my $8k build after I had mine pop off after about a year of use. Best advise for anyone doing hardline pipes is check the connections every few months at least near the beginning.
Another great video. Love your on the spot / spur thought process and overcoming issues and solutions, and you mention the technology - and then stop .. and then actually explain the tech / idea due you experience and exposure ... so you learn .. and you see your thought process .. pure brilliant for the user at all levels approach :) Thank you
PCPartpicker has some helping sections and warnings when you put your build together using their platform...it comes in handy with BIOS revisions and CPU compatibility also, which will save some head banging also.
that's such a helpful site.
It's helpful but not perfect. Especially CPU cooler height.
Sure, that Dark Rock Pro 4 will fit fiiiinnnnnne.
Agreed it is helpful even to those of us that have been out of PC building and tech sphere for a few years.
@@TheSolidSnakeOil it can't do all the work for you, but it will do a lot of it.
It's not the be-all, end-all of pc building sites, but it is certainly one of the best. It's still lacking a few things that would otherwise make it a total one-stop site for pc building. They don't keep track of the RAM + Motherboard compatibility and that's a huge oversight, especially since the motherboard manufacturers are pretty open about what their boards will or won't support. Nothing sucks like ordering everything, getting the parts home, and realizing that the super-nice RAM sticks you bought won't work and the only motherboard available that _can_ use them will wreck your budget.
It also lacks some basic specs for monitors, like color gamuts, cable interface VERSIONS, and matte/glossy. But I can forgive that, because at least it's not an issue on the system building side.
A Megaman themed PC would be AWESOME! I can't wait to see this when it's finished
finished? you must be new here.
get a smaller megaman as gfx card support
@@oIdsteve nah it takes him forever but he eventually finishes projects... sometimes
@@Mack_Dingo Def a great idea. I'd say MM since he has X already. But seems he's basing the pipes off of Quick Man's stage, the force beams.
the problem solving and insights to help people who definitely wouldn't be able to just mess around and try out parts is great to see. that said, i'm probably never going to do a watercooled build bc it seems like it ends up being more headache than it's worth (and i was thinking this like 5 years ago, and it's only gotten even wilder with the modern stuff)
Not really that bad, just have to be patient with it while you're putting it together and you likely want to put parts in that you plan on having for 6 or 7 years. Wouldn't do it if you were the kind of person to get the new Nvidia x060/x070 every year. In the middle of replacing my recently deceased Titan X Pascal with a 4090 and I've been taking my time with my acrylic tubing runs.
Water cooling is definitely not necessary. If I didn't have a kid, I wouldn't even be using a case to be honest. The entire industry tries and conditions people into thinking they NEED a certain level of stuff to be able to play video games. I've done the great majority of my adult video-gaming with onboard graphics. I played league of legends when it was popular, call of duty, Ark, Path of Exile. I've played most of them both with and without boosted gfx and besides occasionally having to turn down the settings compared to if I had a card, I don't notice any difference in the amount of fun I have. Meanwhile my friends, who insist on having stunning graphical experience are overheating, overvolting, or having compatibility issues and other such things from trying to put a $600 new gen gfx card in a $600 previous gen pc all in the name of trying to do the same thing I'm doing (play games). I've also used 100% stock cpu coolers in every one of my personal builds. My last build (hand me down for my kid) has the heatsink and fan held together with a ziptie from when I tried to remove it for a good cleaning. The HSF was welded to part of the cpu and I had to pry it apart, breaking the plastic. I also bent half the pins getting cpu out. Got it all back together, that thing is going on 7 years old now and it runs minecraft and hundreds of thousands of other good games. PC gaming can be one of the cheapest hobbies around. I'd build a lower TDP rig if I actually ever felt like I need watercooling. Most of you guys seem to be packing enough heat in your systems that I could make some virtual machines and we could both game on it at the same time with framerate beyond what our eyes can even reasonably handle...
@@thmswalters To each their own, I see no problem in letting those of us who spend the money have our fun with powerful hardware. I also don't see the problem in going the opposite direction if that's what you want to do. Personally I am impressed with the level of asceticism you're at. But really, nobody thinks they _need_ a water cooling loop to play video games, the conditioning of needing a "certain level of stuff" is usually self-imposed by the individual when it happens. By that I mean people have a budget and a performance goal usually, and some people have a performance goal that is always high and will always try to get the best hardware to reach that level.
My current PC is 8 years old, GTX 970 and a heavily overclocked i5, provided stunning graphical experiences but new games are just asking too much for it to keep up even at reduced settings. So after 8 long years I am finally upgrading with mostly secondhand parts to an RTX 3080 system. I used to say the same thing, seeing all these people with the newest hardware always complaining about games not running right while my 970 was error-free, but I can't deny my excitement to finally be running a computer that is powerful by modern standards again. You're right that the fun in video games is not as correlated to what's in the PC case as most people make it out to be, but nobody is going to deny that prettier graphics at higher framerates will always be a better gameplay experience than lowering the settings and running at a lower framerate.
While I only just worked up the courage to get an AIO, I don't think I'd ever get a custom loop. But I gotta say, watching your troubleshooting style vids like this eases the mind a bit.
Love this stuff
It did?? For me it just reinforced not to try this, unless you have tons of time&money... Do you have spare MBs around "just in case?", well neither do I.
Actually, for those out there who read this, the best way to make sure fittings don't pop off over time is to pressurize the loop at the maximum steady state temperatures. Here is how you do it. Fill and bleed the loop until microbubbles are gone from the reservoir. Do not fill the reservoir all the way during this time. Once the loop is bled, benchmark the heat generating components simultaneously with an open port on the reservoir. Once the loop reaches steady state, wait about an hour, finish filling the reservoir, let run for another 10-20 minutes to re-reach steady state with the new water volume. Then simply screw back in the cap to the open port. By pressurizing the loop at it's maximum temperature instead of doing so at the lowest temperature as is typically the case, you won't ever have more pressure than the loop can handle. By doing it this way, you also are likely to catch it during this initial testing if a tube was cut even just a mm too short.
Ohh nice cuz hot water has more volume than cold or room temperature one so sealing the loop while the water is still hot will creat a bit of vacuum and even if the system runs at maximum there wouldnt be any extra preasure to force open any connection point .
@@kaszas272HU Essentially. Yes. The change in volume is the result of the increased molecular activity and reduced density when heated.
Or just get a decent air cooler, they are as effective and have way less failure points
@@ilmisxx2 Also no danger of destroying your 5k dollar PC when one of those water tubes pops off.
@@ilmisxx2 I believe a good water cooling setup can be a little cooler, but the main benefit is noise level. I do personally think the added work/risk to components isn't worth it, but a fair number of people do.
I love these build vlogs, they always provide food for thought when starting new builds of my own. Thanks for the video!
A 90 degree case will take care of the sagging issue because the card is mounted vertical.
I’m still using mine 2nd built 10 years old system just upgraded now and then and still running great.
Good idea for straighten the graphics card sagging. I don't have 3d printer filaments, but I could use some acetate sheets or the like.
Anyway I remember older PC cases having a support for full size expansion boards. Even the original IBM AT had them. Microchannel boards had this solved using a plastic extender for shorter cards that fitted in a slot, and for longer card the PCB was resting on it.
Another solution, seen normally on 4U rackmount case is to have a bar crossing the case and adjustablelockers holding the boards.
I'm now approaching my 100th build as an indy builder, and I still haven't done a custom loop. Lol. I had an offer from a guy that would have been probably 3 grand in profit, which is huge for me (I'm lucky if I hit 50k a year between my full-time job and pc building), and was still like, yeah... no. I just don't want the headache. To me it just reminds me of when I used to do sprinkler and plumbing jobs... but with much worse fittings. But I love watching videos of other people doing it.
Thanks for showing us the process for planning out the build!
Always good content Jay. This video gave me the idea to mark my tubes with a red sharpie where it will be just barely covered by the fitting. If it starts to slide out at all ill be able to see it from a mile away and tighten it back up.
upgrading can be a mess too, replaced my 1660 super with rx 6600 xt and it blocked 3 of the 4 sata ports so I had to disconnect my 2x 500gb game storage ssds and replace with a single 2tb. At some point will have to swap out the 512gb nvme boot with at least a 2tb as well...
Thanks for showing us how to shove objects into holes Jay. 👍
Alright im new to pc building i just built my first machine about two weeks ago and ive been trying to decide if I should put a figure in my case lol, and damn! as a huge mega man fan I love the idea of making it "like a mega man level". Excellent work.
I really enjoyed your video. I stopped building in 2018 after Hurricane & Power surges blew up 5 computers in my home. Two of which were ASUS MB in ANTEC cases. Costing me about $350 - $400 each. I bought some DL380eGen8 Servers, and run them in the NON OPTIMAL cooling mode. They are 70dba noise level measured 18 inches from face of server. But have dual power supplies, hot swap SAS drives, eight hot swap cooling fans, and quad Gigabit NICs. I run them 24/7 for years with no worries. I get email notification when drive failure is eminent, and can replace drives without powering down. Yes the e5-24XX series CPU's are eight or 10 cores, but have two threads per core... dual CPU's provide plenty of computing power without exceeding 2.5G CPU speeds, and are relatively cheap to replace or change. You can plug in a video card but not a SUPER one...ide, not Eide. Windoz , FreeBSD, Linux, pretty nice. With a full complement of 12 drives (used) I spend less than $600.
just put a pc together tonight, it is time consuming although I had to wait for the argb fans to arrive until evening, but I cleaned and repasted everything then I cabled everything and fitted radiator cpu block then graphics and had to configure bios and insert 8 pin power because I forgot I upgraded to 11th gen intel, eventually after many non posts holding the power button to switch and putting all bios to automatic I got post, ran sfc, ran dism and chkdsk then defrag, 6 hours of the day, but its all working, at great temps, thanks to you all on YT also. 👍❤
I think adding something futuristic/ system stats for the suit on to the glass will be super cool! Could do it using etching cream so it only really shows up when the computer is glowing ❤
Or some kind of UV ink maybe add a blacklight
Since that is Mega Man X, then Chill Penguin could be an enemy and stay in the same color scheme, match the frosted tubes, and low temps of a loop.
Thanks you gave me a great idea on what style I'll use to follow up my current Red Baron build
with those threaded fittings i had a similar failure in the past. the best idea i think is to inspect them and re-tighten them every 6 months. or alternative you could use some locktight screw glue on the threads. but take a not permanent version of the glue! (they are available in different strenghts).
Just built my first PC this past weekend. Watch many of your videos leading up to it, as i was pretty intimidated. Got everything hooked up, and running within 2 hours!👍
it takes a lot more than two hours
@@nopenope7088 took me 2 hours 14ish minutes I timed it. My case is also big, Asus gt501, so it was easy to work in, and the fans all came pre installed.
Jay's (and other creators') videos make it seem more complicated because they are dealing with small cases, large components and usually accessories or water cooling that most people would rather not utilize.
A casual builder would rather have a mid to full tower so access is easy and there isn't much planning to be done.
@@nopenope7088 2 hours seems super doable for a first build to me.
@@nv_takeout if you say so. it took me a full night to get my formd t1 build finished last month.
I’d go with cross flow rads and have some nice bends, you can definitely get creative with them. Also I’d recommend giving Primochill’s metric fittings a shot, they are quite unique as they use a single large beveled o-ring to seal the tubes. Have fun with it, that’s ultimately the best part of the process.
you want flow here's your god damned flow🤣
I just did a lian li v3000 build using two cross flows, and I love them. Those rads made the plumbing incredibly simple, one 420mm mounted up top, which feeds right into a 420mm in the front, and then down back into the reservoir. Best flow, best performance, and quietest system I've ever built.
I built my first custom loop system about 7 or 8 months ago. Jesus christ, I was not prepared.
Great everything....except the tower.
Tower did not go with the loop (it was only intended for the tower manufacterer's own loop) so I had to use a mounting bracket and take up some fan slots and really make the whole thing feel a little janky. Add to this the anxiety when dealing with water right above my PSU. Yikes. Anyway, its been working great for this last end of the year but setting it up was hell....
Kinda wanna build another one next year tbh....
The computer that I have been using for over the last three years is one that I had bought all of the parts and put it together myself. I call it the Cooler Master Masterbox Black Beauty (love Green Hornet TV show) 101 (since it is my first build). What I done was used PC parts picker website to pick all of the needed parts. I also checked the website of the motherboard to make sure that the RAM that I was buying would work for the motherboard that I was buying. Then when I had all of the parts I put it together as I was instructed by your videos which was first to build a test bench. When I got that working then I put it in the case to test all all reaming parts to make sure they were working. When I got that working I did the final cable management. After that it has been running fine for the last 3+ years.
honestly I think it would be cool if you look at the levels from the NES era where alot of times the foreground and background had heavily contrasting colors... you could paint the motherboard tray and everything on that "plain" in a similar pattern to the background from one level (like say its red as the main color or whatever) and then have a vinyl cut and placed on the glass as the "foreground" of the level, so itd give it a big sense of depth of foreground vs background. then maybe the outside of the case could stay white but possibly have small blue accents resembling little design cues from the figurine .
I was thinking the same thing. Print out something on laminate/adhesive that could cover the extra exposed white of the mobo tray and other exposed portions of the case. Could also cover the back of the case excluding fans with the same material to really make it immersive.
could also do orange coolant to match the lava and cover msi dragon with the Megaman dragon
I love my MSI MPG Z790 EDGE mobo! It was easy to install and has been great to work with! It was also nice that they had a white-ish version to complete my "white-out" build! :D
Agreed. Just finished a new build this week and I'm really happy with the board. XMP on 7200 MT/ s DDR5 worked straight away.
My last PC build was inside a Tower 900. I was initially planning on putting a 13" old monitor on the bottom face up and have it acting as a disco floor for a Monster High doll spinning on a water line central striper pole just to be ridiculous. But eventually went with a different theme. Sometimes crazy theme ideas are just fun to attempt. Mega man seems like a fun one too.
Your videos are great, we can see your experience while you are talking, and we appreciate you showing up and posting consistently. I just bought a 3XS system and will learn from your vids how to install windows and go through bios 😅
Hey Jay, how about doing a etching into the EK distro? Painted or Vinyl wrap maybe? Also...have you ever looked in the EK-Loop Vertical GPU holder? Mounts to the motherboard, for extra strength. Looking good so far, the loop is half the battle....Don't for get the drain.😎
I used to think the same thing as you about time spent in the radiator but I got it explained to me in a way that makes a ton of sense. Basically because water cooling is a closed loop it doesn't really matter how much time is spent in the radiator because it's about time spent in the loop as a whole. The more flow you have the faster water cycles between the waterblock and the radiator and the faster heat gets transferred. The temperature deltas involved are TINY so the water in the loop is almost entirely the same temperature (the temperature delta across the loop will typically only be a couple degrees at most). More time spent in the radiator means it takes longer for the water to complete one full cycle of pump to waterblock to radiator and back again, so it cancels out. Basically assuming your radiator isn't undersized and has sufficient airflow, and your waterblock is properly mounted, the single best thing you can do to improve temperatures is increase flow rate.
Flow rate and the room temperature. 😂
Oh, man. I've been in some heated arguments about this over the years...
Heat transfer scales with temperature-difference. If you've got an ambient temperature of 20C and water entering the radiator at 40C is cooling to 30C, halving the flow so each bit of water spends twice as long in the radiator should mean it cools to around 25C - if the temperature difference is halved at time X then it should be halved again at time 2X. If you're treating low water temperature as the goal then this might seem like a good thing, but the real goal is moving heat away from the processor. When you're removing 150% as much heat per bit of water but from only half as many bits of water, you're only removing 75% as much heat.
The same thing happens at the processor end. The fastest heat transfer is when each bit of water first hits the hot thing. That bit of water will slowly soak up more heat if it stays longer, but nowhere near as much as the next bit will in its initial surge. The faster your flow rate, the faster each bit gets out of the way of the next bit's initial surge, and the faster that bit gets through the radiator and back around for another initial surge.
I really love your channel.
The videos are like sitting down and listening to a friend talk.
i'm not even half way through and this is one of my favourite build videos so far. It's a fun journey.
If you use a red fluid, you can make the tubes look like lasers being fired from either direction. Or, like the clip you showed, of them coming out of the sides to be dodged by megaman as he fell.
What about using the shortest motherboard standoffs you can find? I’ve seen some that are at least a mm shorter than normal, at least a mm shorter than the standoffs Corsair uses on their cases anyway. There’s enough room for the IO shield to move that much, and hopefully the card won’t be against the glass.
This might be stupid, but the first thing I thought of regarding the GPU and glass panel clearance:
Why couldn't you use some kind of spacers or even a thin rubber strip (like weather-stripping) to make the glass panel sit a little further out?
Watercooling planning is important to get it done right.
It's a lot easier now than it was in the early 90's when you hade to use household water plumbing gear to hook a huge outboard water cooler to your PC, so you could overclock your 486 and make it run 40% faster! It's like horsepower on a car, the more power you put in, the less the increase makes a difference, and you don't get nearly as much out of overclocking modern processors as you could much older ones.
That's what he said 🤣
Jay, just one thing that was bugging me:
Will the CableMod adapter fit for the GPU power? Seems awfully close to the glass as is, so I would check the fitting to make sure for peace of mind.
My first and last liquid cooling system was Coolermaster Aquagate Max. I got it new for about $200 in 2007 and used it daily. The pump in that system lasted for 13 years. It was first on a Core 2 Quad 6600 then an AMD FX 6300 and last a Ryzen 5 3600. I had to zip tie the water block to the 3600 and it still worked great.
Crossflow heat exchangers are generally preferred and more efficient fluid dynamically e.g. turbo vehicle intercoolers, faster flow, less lag, less energy spent in getting from one side to the other etc.
Agreed about the RGB hate, if it's done tastefully and not just rotating rainbows everywhere, it can really nicely accentuate what's in the case :)
I spend most of the time to build a computer just researching all the components and addressing compatibility concerns. In fact, more time than the actual build and configuration to completion is spent on this research. As time goes on it's getting harder because of all the technical diversities. Can't say I like the case you chose, but the number of fans looks good. Used Supermicro MB on the last build. Been good so far.
For the hardtubing.
To avoid tube loose, degrease them.
When using your hand grease has been applied to the rim of the tube.
I had a server running with hard tubing and i just "leave it at his life" for 5 years without issues.
I've never purged it, never looked at it during this period
It had short and extended warm-up periods depending on the project I worked on and even some mining towards the end.
Dual Xeon 130W and GPU
I am kinda new on this channel, but I really like your content man. Always really helpful. Thanks for this, keep it up!
This is the kind of stuff that reminds you it only takes 30 minutes to assemble a basic system, but it takes hours to go through all the details like cable routing and setting up lighting, let alone getting into anything custom.
Love your vids❤
I have an Ichill RTX 4080 and have the exact same issue with the block touching the side glass on my O11D, there is bugger all room. I actually leave the bottom left corner out of the clip to alleviate any pressure, it's not noticeable unless you look closely at it.
A good thing though is that I have absolutely no sag, the card is solid and that's without the side glass fitted.
Cant find the next vid for this cool build. Just one where all the cooling is done?
asus's quality control these days really leaves much to be desired. all 3 of the asus products i've received over the last two years have been defective and their customer support always tries to find a way out of helping you, whether it be rma or general troubleshooting. my current build has an x470 board in it, it doesnt work properly but still WORKS period. bought a laptop back in late 2022 that arrived DOA with a specific type of issue, so i sent it back and got a replacement that had the same specific issue, so i sent it in for an rma in which asus customer support tried to tell me that my warranty was expired despite having the laptop in my possession less than 48 hours and including the purchase invoice to prove it. after escalating the issue to asus's CEO office (or so the website said) they finally agreed to rma it under warranty and it turned out to be a board issue so they replaced it and sent it back, and even though it's "fixed" it still causes issue every now and again. definitely steering clear of asus for a while, especially for my 7800x3d build coming up
Jay, I don't know how you do it. You're one of my first channels I started following back in maybe 2010 or so. I have now reached supreme pc op status, I don't watch for "how to builds" anymore, I watch because it's nostalgic. This channel is a benign eddie out of the flow of more turbulent times. Thanks for that.
Well this makes me feel old. I've been here since the early days before he quit his day job. In my mind that was just a few years ago!
i used to watch j2c linus techdeals etc too, wiser to not drag anyone
Went from Asus to gigabyte years ago.
Went with the Hyte Y60 case. Wonderful case to work with that is a vertical mount. But of course it won't hold the RTX 4090 with it's 3 slot space.
Three fan bays are nicer.
Being new to glass cases like there, that's requires more costs for cable adapters to hide them. That's about another $100 in costs.
So much trial and error needed with these nice glass cases.
Putting things in cases is neat. Figure, space fighter, etc.
Yes, always check your measurements when building or upgrading.
I thought it would be nice to upgrade my graphics card only to find out it wont fit the current case I was using.
So I had to rebuild my machine into a new case that I wasn't planning on. :)
if you plan to use the same memory SSD, should you wipe them before upgrading?
@unknownGoblin Depends on what you're upgrading. If it's only a video card or ram, then no, but if it's a whole new system, then yes, of course.
I like the direction this build is going already. Suggwestion... is it possible to use shorter motherboard stand offs to maybe gain a few fractions of space off the glass side?
That is a good suggestion.
Mega Man theme idea: if you go normal rads, not cross flow, you could have the action figure hanging from the tube going across the top.
Then make the vertical fans on the side panel be a ladder with an enemy on them.
One of Mega Man’s arms are holding on the tube while the other is pointing at the enemy.
Funny thing I realized when planning my upcoming build: I'll (try to) be using the Asus Prime AP201 case for mATX, which has a LOT of positive reviews. However no one really seems to talk about the PSU plug issue I believe it might have. The power connector extension has an angled plug for the psu, which means, you have to take into consideration the orientation of the socket on your PSU. Some reviewers said "well, you just have to mount the PSU so it pulls air from the inside" but there are some PSUs which have the socket turned 90 degrees, and some also have that 90 degree socket at the very edge of the PSU, which would then result in the side panel not being closable. Extremely odd and specific issue and because I'd like to use an ATX3.0 PSU the only one I could find with the correct orientation of the socket was the Thermaltake ToughPower.
does anyone know when Asus (and possibly other manufactures) moved the RAM slots a little bit closer to the CPU socket? went to add my R1 universal and found that it hangs over the RAM, it had about 2mm clearance from all RAM slots on my z97 board but on the z590 (both are Asus maximus boards, formula and hero respectively) it hangs over buy about 3mm
My biggest struggle with pc building is cable management. No matter how hard I try, I can never get it right
Isnt that hard. Cable goes into closest hole and you pull it through as much as possible. Who cares what it looks like behind the panel. You are the only person who will ever see that and rarely at that. I havent opened the back of my case in a couple years.
Can you use smaller standoffs behind the motherboard? That might give you the extra millimeter or two you need to keep it off the glass.
Your trick for the sagging GPU just helped me locate and fix a rattle in my rig (technically mine was the PCI wifi/bluetooth card bracket rattling instead of my GPU). Thank you, sir.
I literally just started building in the NZXT H9 Flow right before watching this video. Running a EVGA Supernova 1000 P3, ROG Strix B650-A (Wifi 6E), G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32G (6000), Ryzen 7800X3D, waiting on NZXT Kraken Elite 360, Samsung 980 Pro (2TB) (going to start fresh on this drive), and going from a EVGA 3070ti FTW to an ASUS TUF 4090 OG OC. Also got my Secretlab Titan Evo XL. I think it is funny that this is the video that popped up for me for first to watch after just building in it even though the video is 9 Months Old. Love your videos and now I need to find someone to buy my old system. Thinking of Holding onto the EVGA 3070 TI FTW, Bought it right before they did the press release of not making cards anymore.
P.S. Cable management was way easier than the O11D.
Jay, you should use shorter spacers between the motherboard and the mounting plate because at the moment it looks like the motherboard bends when you close the side panel.
The main thing you need to look out for is your CPU and Motherboard being compatible and making sure your graphics card fits your case with your radiator thickness if you have one.
I have a Cooler Master HAP 500 case, they don't make a GPU too large for it yet, and once they do, I can chop the eight 5 1/2" drive bay down or just remove it, now that I have NVME's and a few 3 1/2" SSDs! It's not like I don't have 4 additional 5 1/2" hot swap bays in the front I can get 8 SSD's into, and all kinds of extra space elsewhere.
so quick question why didnt you just switch the case out for a semi bigger one with more volume 011d etc
Preach on the EATX dilemma. I built an absolute bleeding edge rig recently with the MSI X670E Godlike, and finding a case that would support what I wanted to do with the watercooling and rad placement was a massive pain. I ended up going with the Corasair iCue 7000X and still had to come from the bottom and across with the 24 pin (luckily it's cablemod extension so at least the cable looks nice). Vert mounting the GPU was also a pain because the standoffs for the riser cable is meant to only support Corsair riser cables and *at the time* Corsair still only had PCIe Gen 3 risers, so I ended up taking a Cable Mod one and whittling away at the elongated screw slot until it would fit with the standoff placement. Ugh.
Desktops have become so much easier to build than they were 20+ years ago.
9:45 my MSI 760 ancient MOBO over 10 years of rough use and dragging it around in a suitcase on trains and only using 3 mounting screws never had an issue
sadly none of the anti sag methods worked with my gfx card + case combo but lian li makes a subtle anti-sag bracket that screws into the mobo so its out of the way
I would like to see a build with a focus on silence and performance. So NO RGB stuff, and no compromises because the system should look good when you look in from the side. For example, with a case like the silenced Fractal Design Define 7.
it's the preparation H build ???and now don't for get to apply it LOL
Like in electronics, serial resistence is just added together, parallel drops by reciprok value (math) if your pump can supply enough water at very low pressure, you will be fine, all about flow capacity
Far out, look at the size of that computer warehouse ! You guys are real lucky over there in the US. We don't have stores with so much choice here in Australia.
You know metal expand under heat, make sure that the glass don't shatter if you have that GPU against the glass.
Unlikely, since the difference is usually less than 20c, especially on the part that’s near the glass that’s going to be basically the same as water temp.
Was thinking the same thing myself.
Murphy's law says it will explode into a thousand pieces one day and the user will have no idea why.
A low spec MSI board is way better than the other Brands Crap
I just built my first pc, i5 13600k, RTX 3080-ti, Msi pro Z690-A motherboard, 32gb ddr4 Viper dims, Msi A1000G PSU, ID-Cooling AIO, 2x 1gb m.2 sad in Sauron case. Radiator hit the ram at the top so installed it at the front, graphics card would not fit in so had to move the bottom rad fan to inside the front case so I have one pushing and one pulling, lucky there was room. Spent two weeks going through specks and measurements. Ended up with two extra fans because of the AIO move.
Do you a finished product video for this build, interested to see how turned out. Thanks.
Ive a Lian Li air case thinking it would be designed for installing a top end CPU HSF and it has a 155mm clearance and pretty much every HSF is 155 or more so it leaves you with with about 2 options
if it was 2 -5 cm wider it could fit every top end HSF but as it is you can only fit a couple of HSF or a aio water cooling which makes the whole thing point less into having a case with high airflow
@jaytwocents i build my own pc a couple months back and have come across the most frustrating thing when it comes to sound. i have looked all over and just cant find the solution, i run a two monitor set up and now have if i click on one monitor there is one sound volume, then when clicking on the second monitor it has a different sound volume. is there a setting i am missing that will stop this?
I have the H9 flow and bought the vertical bracket its nice, but if you put the fans in the top there is no route for the cords to go, and if you put a rad up there, the compartment is to small for the panel to go back on.
Yes it touches, but that partially addresses the sagging issue. Think about it. by lining up the card because it was sagging the CASE fixes the sag issue.
Been watching your vods for a few months now and i love you you explain things. I was wondering do you build custom computers for people? Do you have a website? I currently have an omen 30L and looking into building a new PC for gaming and converting the omen to a streaming machine.
Is there any concern with any thermal transfer into the glass with it touching the block of the gpu?
Very entertaining and fun to watch. Thanks for posting this.
@5:13 you discuss support for GPU, yet the lead up shots when you unpackage the vertical mount, it had an adjustable brace already on there that pushes off the rad.
This is why I use a Air Cooling System by Noctua for some many years without any issues to cool down the system. I always use a full tower case.
My #1 problem -wrong size case. Water coolers can be so wide and long. There should be a -case isn't big enough check for this part.
That was Mega Man 2, Quick Man stage!
Do you lay out the mobo, video card, RAM and power supply first and then fit the cooling - or fit the cooling and build the components around it? Do you mount drives where ever they fit? I've only done a couple basic builds on my GigaByte UD-H Z170 board and an ASRock Z68 that lasted about 6 months.
maybe use washers between the glas and the case. so you get 1mm more space. and some more airflow cause its not uptight closed case.
I had exactly the same lack of clearance in the Cooler master HAF700 and a Alphacool Core block. They push the mobo tray so far forward because of the PSU fitment. It states 166mm air cooling clearance and I think the Alphacool Core was 165mm!. The case is Huge, like 500x500x280mm huge and you think you fit anything in it.
I also had the same problem reThe GPU being way too close to the mobo, in fact the Power cable overhung the ram slots, making it iompossible.
I solved by finding a a surface mounted open bench GPU stand. That has magnetic feet and I placed one small bolt through the floor of the case just to stop it from moving.
Just goes to show that they don't consider every eventuality when they design and test.
lol its funny you specifically talk about the lines at the connectors in the back blocking connectors from fully seating. This causing someone putting a pc together to think the graphics card is having an issue when its really the connector. i got the antec df700 and this exact thing happened. i got a new rx 7600 for my daughters pc, and as i was plugging in the power cable to the card, i put alittle too much pressure and heard a pop. nothing looked damaged, but then it wouldnt post and my motherboards vga light was illuminated. so i thought i broke it. come to find out, it was just that small metal strip blocking me from fully seating the connector.