This and the intake removal one are perfect how-to videos, really helped. No annoying background music, notes the size of the tools needed, explains those pesky clips. Couldn't ask for more, thanks. Oh, a 3/8 drill bit works for those dowel pins, tapping on the pointy end. I have so many in the drawer it's no loss to damage one.
Perfect. My wife’s alternator quit last week, so this is my first alternator to replace myself. I actually did find that common problem of the bolt backing out on the alternator pulley, so thank you for mentioning that
Great. Thank you for a great detailed video. The Turbo (XC70 T6) is definitely easier - just the 10 bolts holding the manifold, a handful of connectors and large intake hose clamped to the plastic pipe. Easy removal and no required access from the bottom of the engine. Keep up the great work sharing your knoweldge and tips with us!!!!
Thanks so much for posting that video. I was referred to this on a forum because I couldn't get old the alternator back in (removed to tighten the gear bolt and replace the clutch) in with pins projecting out of the body. After viewing the video I took the alternator to Lowes to find a bolt by inspection that would work to insert the pins, ended up getting a 5" x 3/8" hex bolt to use as a tool, worked well. Putting the alternator back on via that method was less than a 10 min job.
I have a 2012 XC60 with 125,000. The warning charging light came on and the pulley had spun loose too. Your video saved me. Great instructions and directions. I went ahead and installed a new alternator and I'm sure I saved at least $1000 compared to what the dealer would charge for a new alternator. I did crack the Engine Coolant Recovery Tank Hose at the base of the elbow ($30) I have a clamp and electrical tape until I can order the new hose. I appreciate all the hard work putting videos like this online.
@@TheVolvoGuy Happy New Year. Thanks so much for your videos. My 2012 XC60 keeps throwing the P0430 system catalyst system efficiency below threshold, bank 2. I’ve tried different additives but I works like to change or clean the O2 sensors. There aren’t any videos on UA-cam. Any tips? Thanks
This just happened with my wife's truck. We all thought it was the alternator only. Come to find out it was the clutch not the pulley. We replaced the bolt on the clutch and tightened to specs! You just saved me a ton of money! Thanks my man!
Man it took me a while to find this video. You should rename it. Volvo s60 alternator replacement. I have seen countless videos for my S60 but not as deep and thoroughly explained as yours. 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Really appreciate your putting this on UA-cam. Did the job yesterday on my 2012 T6. The manifold video helped too though thankfully the steps to remove the manifold on the T6 are easier. Plus I ended up cleaning the throttle body and replacing all the gaskets. Keep up the excellent work! PS - the advice of getting a 5” hex bolt that’s 3/8” worked perfectly to hammer back in the metal sleeves.
You should include Land Rover LR2 in your title description. It has the same Volvo motor in it. I have a 2010 LR2, and this video (and the intake manifold removal video) was way more informational and helpful than anything I found on UA-cam about Land Rovers. Might get you some more views and subs. Oh, and I really appreciate your help. Thanks!
Great channel,Great tutorials. Bought my wife a dis-inflationary 10-XC90 3.2 .The 10th day of ownwershio it started the upset that would be identifiedas typical bad Alternator. It was not but engine gear bolt just sitting in the cavity .The alternator appears new . The process was complete ,red loctite was attempted,but other little things were not done. +didnt let loctite set +didnt hold gear on bolt torgue tightening sequence +used old,exsisting bolt IT was running fine for 6 days 2nd repair +Bolt out again,gear spinning freely +Gear was held +Old Bolt was used & tighten again It was runnning for another 6 days 3rd repair +New bolt(green loctite used) +Gear held tight & (Held on bolt torque) +Lettng loctite set 12hours+ Car will be started up tommorrow mid morning Job was completed 2hours two men,3rd same project. 1st time 3hours+ any idea's or guidance?
Newly Subscribed as i have been twisting on Volvos for some time and in the market for a 3.0 T6. Your doing a great service and really enjoy the effort. Good job and thank you.
Good thing the reman alternator come with the pulley on the unit. Never saw any other video mention the 2 pins that should be moved to the replacement unit
Getting my alternator replaced on my 2007 Volvo XC90 V8 at 170,000 miles . Its one heck of a job. I guess the brushes have worn out inside the voltage regulator. I am curious to see once we disassemble the old one.
The problem start with the both (triangle symbol and the battery symbol light came on and both were red') car drove for 5min then died in nearby Gas station thank god for that Thanks to your video it was the bolt that was loose like you said to check before you replace any parts i used my finger to check and i noticed i could turn it clockwise and counter clockwise Was able to return both the new alternator and pulley All we did was replace the bolt WITH LOCK TIGHT GLUE just to be safe i Its been 3days now and Truck is running and charging perfect " thanks a gain)))))
Hello Volvo Guy. First off, thank you for sharing the information on this common problem (from what I've read, being a Volvo newbie and all). Second, thank you for answering my question in the comments. Had to search a bit, but I found them! Thanks again, keep up the good work! Cheers, John
i have an 07 xc90 3.2 190k and the "power system service urgent" warning msg came on today and windows/seats etc stopped working. My scanner showed charging volts was normal at 14 but then it went to 16 and then 17V after a couple minutes! Found the small coolant hose above the intake had coolant seepage residue all over it so it must have dripped straight down onto the alternator and shorted something. I yanked the intake (NOT FUN) and will try replacing just the VR to see if problem goes away. If not, new alternator.
at 4:54 you mention replacing the pulley and bolt and a special tool and a torque to reinstall. what is the part number for the special tool and what is the torque? also, should I polish the shaft before I reinstall the pulley? thanks!
Thanks for the great video! I have a question about the pulley you are showing at 4 minutes into the video. On my car I can spin it as well as the alternator with the engine off. Im assuming its not supposed to do that. I'm getting a loud squeal coming from there when I run the engine. Also the battery doesn't seem to be charging. I'm thinking that pulley may be the culprit. Do you have any videos of changing this pulley out? When I looked up the part I think it was called the alternator clutch gear and flange screw. You also mentioned there were special tools for this install. Do you have the part numbers for the tools?
Been looking for a video for this exact thing! Thank you so much for you indepth video i had a loose bolt and tighten it and 5hats all it took. Put it back together and runs perfect. Thank you so much
I would like to watch you replace the the pulley on the idler pulley side. I have a loud sound and sure enough that pulley is locked up. It’s a 2008 Volvo S80 T6.
Excellent video. You sir, have earned yourself a new subscriber. Will save a FORTUNE over going to the dealer or even an indie shop. I can't imagine how much Alldata says to charge for this one. Lol
Hi, Great videos and help 😊 My xc70 has thrown the "urgent charging system" warning for a few years... just occasionally. Can't recall if the battery idiot light comes on. Anyway, i used to think it was the 'loose pulley bolt' situation, but after all these years i'm thinking it should just spin free by now and require the bolt to be torqued. (i did have batteries dying, but just needed the Sirius/satellite jumper). What could cause the warning to pop up so randomly, infrequently. Also, could the decoupled pulley be the problem? Does anything happen if that fails? 🤔 thx
Thank you. I have recorded a video for it am going to check and see if I have it. My phone broke and lost about 10 videos I recorded. Am trying to save some money to by a camcorder with tripod. Hopefully soon.
Thank you for such a great detailed video. Do you have info on the pulley and bolt you mentioned at 4:15 in this video? Mine is free spinning like you mentioned with going through the intake with a pry bar to see if it spins…
The piece at the 5:14 mark has been locked with thread locker instead of being replaced, now it’s stuck and it sounds like the barrens are messed up (if there are any barrens) . I’m not sure what holds it to the pulley on the other side of the timing housing
Friction holds the pully on the shaft due to the shape and design, which is why when it slips, it has to be replaced. Now, the shaft that comes out of that unit does ride on bearings inside, and we have seen some problems with them.
Hello glad I found this video! Helping a friend do theirs on their 2011 XC60 tomorrow & had a couple questions. 1. Hope & pray that pulley isn't spinning but if it is, can I not try tightening that center bolt down? If worth trying, what is torque spec? 2. Saying that's good, also wondering torque specs for 4 bolts that hold alternator, & 12 bolts for intake manifold. Thanks a bunch in advance if you'd be so kind as to take time to answer my questions!
Hi, thanks for video. Like in the video we will have to replace the pulley and bolt for a 2011 xc60 t6 could you possibly help me find the part. Having a hard time finding part and tool needed. Thanks
Great video. About to tackle this soon. I would like a little more info on the decoupler pulley. Mechanic quoted me stupid high on an alternator job saying that he believes the decoupler pulley also needs changed. He quoted me $1600. I'm about to have the car towed back to my house to do myself. Just want to know what i woulc potentially be getting my self into with the pulley and seal. I was going to buy an alternator kit and decoupler/seal kit from FCPEuro.
Very clear explanation and sharp video. I am a layman w/2008 lr2 with possible timing chain or tensioner issue. How can the chain be easily checked for looseness?
Great video. I have all the bolts out and it moves a little but it does not want to come loose. Any suggestions? I don't want to try and lubricate it or hit it with a rubber hammer. I don't see those dowel pins.
I figured it out. It was those alternator spacers/sleeves that were corroded. I was able to actually save them to reuse. Are they absolutely necessary?
Hi, Just had new (After-market) Alternator fitted. Everything work fine for exactly one week and then back to having Battery Symbol + Warning (!)Triangle on again with "No Charge" message being displayed. Any ideas?
Thanks for the video it was very helpful. I replaced my alternator on 2009 s80 3.2 . When I took the alternator off the gear was loose. I thought I got it tight. Well you know the problem. Alternator is not spinning because of the gear loosen up again. So I'm going to have to take it apart again. What tools do I need to fix and tighten the gear. Thank you Paul T Brown
hi. i need to do my alternator which this video is a lot of help but my question is i have 2012 xc60 3.2 and i have pressure building up in my engine to the point where when i remove my oil cut its wants to blow it upwards i believe it has something to do with my pcv system but im not exactly sure if you have any suggestions i would greatly appreciate it. thank you
Thanks for a great video, very clear in explaining the steps and noting special elements that make it easier. I'm interested in the special tool for the for the installation of the toothed drive pully on the alternator side of the gear housing. The bolt backed out on my car thus I need to replace per your guidance. Can you advise what the tool # is for the installation tool?
Great video. Thanks for the heads up on having to pull off the pully from the old to the new alternator. Any recommendation on getting that plastic cover for the pully that you have to remove? Also any recommendations on where to get those 6 rubber gaskets that need to be replaced?
Great video. For the pulley on shaft what tool do you use for proper installation? I have a 2012 Volvo XC60 that i installed an alternator. But i notice that pulley was loose so i tighten it . But when i finish install my battery is not charging. Any tips is much appreciated
thanks great videos i have freelander 2 I6 need to replace thermostat and check for water leak under inlet manifold do i need to remove this inlet manifold
thanks again for this, i have everything ready and am just waiting on the bolt to arrive. Can you send me the torque specs for the pulley bolt and the intake bolts? thank you in advance.
are you still taking questions on this channel? My XC90 is getting high mileage (240K) and will likely be doing this alternator/belt/seal job soon. My engine is leaking oil in a couple of places now. It also burns or uses 3 quarts between oil changes.
2011 lr2 have what sounds like a noisy pulley around my ac compressor area. Almost sounds similar to a slight rod knock motor is completely healthy and sound is independent from rpm. Would the pulley under the ax compressor be a culprit ? Have replaced the idler and tensioner on that main belt system the noise still persists.
What happens if you don't have anything to push the dowel pins back in to the engine? Can you install it with them just staying flush on the alternator?
Hello, what and awesome video thanks so ,much. I need to tighten the clutch gear that is mounted to the engine. I cannot find the torque spec for the M10x30 bolt. I looked everywhere and only found the torque spec for the alternator pulley. If you know the specification please share it. Thank you in advance. Tom
@TheVolvoGuy i removed my alternator seal and dowels were missing. That bolt also was red loctited in. I think there was a subpar alternator job done in the past. Do you have any idea where i can find those dowels or how important they are?
Happy new year!! I have some questions. I need to replace ac compressor. But I can’t find low pressure and high pressure port on my 2008 xc70. Are there hidden somewhere?
Thank you, one on the service port high pressure is by the power steering bottle on the passenger side, the low pressure line is under the wipers Cowell not hard to get to.
Hi. Ref the alternator pulley, is there a seal inside that can leak? Because I have an oil leak from there, as far as I can see. I replaced the seal on the other side, towards the AC compressor, but I still have a leak from that area.
I final got the intake manifold removed after some fiddling per my post on that video. I have the issue you mentioned around the 5:00 mark that the sprocket (pulley) bolt on the engine side has come loose. Your mentioned in the video to contact you for more info on replacing the sprocket, bolt and the tool needed. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
@@TheVolvoGuy You mention that a special tool is needed. I'm assuming that's to hold the pulley while you tighten the bolt. Is this not needed? Also, are there any torque spec's for the pulley nut, alternator bolts, and manifold bolts?
@@gregpaprocki9765 yes the tool is to hold the pulley if you can get the bolt tight without it that would work I will get you the torque specs for that bolt.
Great video! Do you have a video on replacing a timing chain? I have a 2013 S60 T6 R design that I was planning on doing, but I can't find anything on the internet about replacing a timing chain
Thanks for the detailed timing chain videos, I just finished watching them all. After talking to my local Volvo mechanic I've decided to wait on the timing chain as there's no issues with it currently, but I am replacing the auxiliary belt, tensioner and idler pulley as well as the water pump. My question is, the water pump is as straight forward as it looks right? (No special tools, I don't have to pull the outer timing cover etc) I have a 2013 S60 T6 R-Design
@thevolvoguy The drive on the right is super sloppy, it is like the bearings are worn out. For the life I me I cannot figure out how to replace them. Do I have to pull the timing cover? Any help would be much appreciated!.
@thevolvoguy just replaced alternator. Still not getting proper charging voltage. Digging deeper and I'm reading to need to possibly reset bms. Any tips or ideas?
Great Job, Thank you, do you change the intake casket when you do open this, also I have the 2012 XC70, I had an alignment and they told me that the rear tire Camber is out and they are not able to adjust to specs, I have changed the rear control arms and they told me the same thing on the second alignment, what is your opinion, mine that the place I took it to don't understand this car
2010 XC 60, alternator seems to be on the outs. Vehicle died on the highway (battery not getting charge warning popped up), couldn't turn it over and get going again. Once the A/C and fan were going it fired up. Not sure if it's the pulley, but I'd like to see how to test that.
Is the alternator special pulley tool the same as the tool for the decoupler pulley driving the other accessories? I have that one. Thanks for the great videos!
Great video! You keep saying throughout the comments section that if that clutch gear bolt has backed off, you need to replace the pulley along with the bolt. Is it REALLY necessary to replace the pulley? Can't you just retighten the bolt with some loc-tite as you mention? If it IS absolutely necessary to replace the pulley, how do you get the old one off? Is it just held in by that one bolt, and after removing the bolt you can just pull it off by hand? Or do you need some kind of removal tool? Thank you
When the bolt is torqued The pulley is held on to the shaft by friction lock When the pulley spins due to the bolt back and off it caused damage to the pulley and it's highly recommended to be replaced If you're removing an old one yes you will need a tool to pull the old pulley off the shaft.
I researched a bit more and see that they are the counterhold tool (9997258) and puller (9997259) to remove and replace the 30750136 (clutch gear) and 982817 (flange screw). Can you point me to these tools or anyone you know that might have them? Or have you found a way to remove the clutch gear without the specialty tool?
It comes out the bottom it is not the easiest radiator I have done. Also the bumper have to come out. Send your email and I might be able to help you out.
So my alternator is not charging and I can spin the coupling no problem. so guessing the bolt/ Alternator Clutch Gear are toast. On a forum somebody mentioned "The likely root cause of this is that the free-wheel clutch on your alternator has failed and needs to be replaced" Car has 104k miles. Is this possibly true, is there a way to test?
@@TheVolvoGuy yes. And I can see the internals of the alternator moving. If I replace just the gray gear and it's bolt do I need a special tool for just those?
@@mattlikesbikes you will need a tool to hold the gray gear while you torque the bolt. You will need a new bolt and the gray gear and a dab of lock tight.
great video, but i have some questions. i changed the alternator and the battery. voltage test on the battery with car off is now 12.9 V and with the car on the voltage is 13.6 V. that is with a brand new battery and alternator. isn't the alternator supposed to be putting out at least 14.2 V? what could be wrong now?
@@TheVolvoGuy ok, i thought that might be what was happening. I read that somewhere. while I have your attention, why does that bolt back out of the coupler on the engine? I cleaned up the inside surface and on the shaft and then used some lock tight to put the bolt back on. i want to make sure that bolt doesn't come loose again.
hi everyone trying to get some information on a 2008 Land Rover LR2. What is the name of the pulley the alternator fits up against that the bolt loosens and stops the alternator from charging. Also what is the tool needed to hold the pulley
The tool number is 999 7258 you can use a belt oil wrench tool as well. The pully part number is 30750136 the bolt is 982817 this is Volvo part numbers
I would have the same questions as many others. What is the tool for holding the decoupling pulley. I can't seem to find the right search words to find it on my own.
Hey guys I have a 2011 Volvo s60T6AWD and when the car is at regulator temp and I accelerate slow at 600 to 800 RPMs it creates a lout rattle. Can it be that the alternator coupler bearing gone bad ? I had my wife accelerate and bring the RPMs to no more than 800rpms and I can see the belt that goes on the alternator move sideways just a bit. I want to replace but before doing so I would like some info if I should replace the alternator pulley like in this video?
If you remove the alternator make sure the pulley is ok, to be honest with you I never seen a noise caused by the alternator belt it might be you alternator bearing but with me not being there and hearing the noise it is hard for me to pin point it.
Hi, Do you have any videos on how to remove the fuel rail with the injectors? It looks like the last one on the left side, below the torque mount, is impossible to remove without removing the engine mount. Sorry for the off topic.
You have to lower the engine by loosening the 3 bolts for the motor mount. Make sure not to drop it too much you can use a floor jack to support the engine if you do that then you can remove the engine mount completely.
@@TheVolvoGuy Thank you for the quick reply. Is there anything else I should be careful of after this, or it should be straight forward? Also, do you know the torque value for re-tightening the engine mount bolts?
Awesome video, Sir! Do you normally see the coupler spinning when the engine is running? I'm assuming the answer is yes, but checking to confirm. What is the diameter and length of the alignment bolt you used?
@@TheVolvoGuy is it super difficult without the special tool ? Like if I don’t have it, what is my other option ? I’m starting in the morning 8AM central
I own a 2010 XC60 T6 R-design and I just replaced the alternator as per your video. But when I started the car it hunts and will not idle and when it tries to settle on idle it runs rough and hunts one more time and then it dies????? It is a 150 amp alternator.
@@TheVolvoGuy I had been having a problem with charging the battery and a test revealed that it was the alternator. I'm embarrassed to say that I could not get the throttle body to cooperate, then upon trying today (07/17/21) it just slipped together by itself. Also THANKS for your quick responce.
@@TheVolvoGuy I love my car but I still can't start it. I'm 73 and I can't wrench on it with humidity in the 80%, just about killed myself. But I have always loved a challenge.
Can I buy the manifold gasket and the alternator pulley removing tools from you ,,,or can you give me the numbers for the part ,,,,,my daughters 2011 xc60 3.2 is giving a message “charging failure service urgent “” there is a smell of burn coming from the alternator so I’m assuming is going bad ,thanks so much
After putting everything back together and jump starting the new battery, I have reduced engine performance code, check engine light and traction control temporarily off. I tried letting it run for awhile and restarting it 3 times. Any other ideas? Unfortunately I let someone borrow my code reader yesterday.
Check the throttle connector. Also, I have seen a new noun dealer alternator to be bad out of the box. Make sure you have good charging voltage with the engine running.
Hello Volvo guy I have a 2008 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD with 173,000+ miles. Recently I replaced the timing cover seal with help from your video because I was having a bad oil leak. I am still noticing oil on the alternator side not much but some. Do you have any idea if the alternator side seal is known to leak oil? With 173,000+ miles on mine should I just go ahead and replace it? What is the part number? And do I need any special Volvo tools? Thanks I look forward to hearing back from you.
The Volvo Guy I used the Volvo tool 9997265 to replace the timing cover seal on the belt side. Is it the same tool for the Alternator side seal? I found part number 30711317 as Alternator side seal. Is that correct seal?
Sooo... my pulley was loose, exactly as you described. Any information you can provide about replacing the pulley and bolt would be greatly appreciated. I'm having a hard time finding the part.
@@TheVolvoGuy Thanks for the quick reply, man. I'm going to head over there on Monday. I do everything through a mom and pop here in Dayton, because my local Volvo Dealership is hot garbage and has tried to scam me out of thousands of dollars in the past. I found a few places online that have the pulley, but no mention of the bolt anywhere.
Also, if you hadn't made this video and the one about the intake, I don't know how long it would have taken to get that intake manifold off... thank you for your service to the Volvo community!!!
Great video... After watching this and the intake removal video, I feel confident to DIY on my S80 3.2. I've never done this kind of task before. plan to replace my alternator this weekend.. Any suggestions on where I can find or purchase a tool that you use on the reinstall to align those two bottom bolts?
Thank you. There is no tool really the best way to do it is to find a long bolt to be small to fit through the holes and big enough to push the pins. If you have any other questions let me know. I can send you the one I have.
The tool to install the dowels on the two bottom bolts is 303-1255 on the Land Rover LR2 service manual. You can ask any dealer for one or order one from the JLR tools web site.
Can you please do a video on the serpentine belt....I tried to change mine and I got it off most of the way but I could not get the belt off the bottom pulley which I think that's the water pump pulley....does that pulley have to come off in order to get the rest of the serpentine belt off?
Volvo guy...I figured out the serpentine belt issue....the part of your video about the bolt that sometimes backs out and has to be retorqued...what is the torque value and could you tell me the tool to hold the pulley in place and what that pulley is called so I can find a replacement......also on the dowel pins...you mentioned you made those line up bolts to push the dowel pins back in the block...could you tell me what size and length bolts you used to push the dowel pins back into the block......
This and the intake removal one are perfect how-to videos, really helped. No annoying background music, notes the size of the tools needed, explains those pesky clips. Couldn't ask for more, thanks. Oh, a 3/8 drill bit works for those dowel pins, tapping on the pointy end. I have so many in the drawer it's no loss to damage one.
Thank you, and also thank you for the drill bit trick that is amazing. I'm sure someone can use that trick.
Who put background music on a car repair
Perfect. My wife’s alternator quit last week, so this is my first alternator to replace myself. I actually did find that common problem of the bolt backing out on the alternator pulley, so thank you for mentioning that
Super helpful!
Great. Thank you for a great detailed video. The Turbo (XC70 T6) is definitely easier - just the 10 bolts holding the manifold, a handful of connectors and large intake hose clamped to the plastic pipe. Easy removal and no required access from the bottom of the engine. Keep up the great work sharing your knoweldge and tips with us!!!!
Thanks so much for posting that video. I was referred to this on a forum because I couldn't get old the alternator back in (removed to tighten the gear bolt and replace the clutch) in with pins projecting out of the body. After viewing the video I took the alternator to Lowes to find a bolt by inspection that would work to insert the pins, ended up getting a 5" x 3/8" hex bolt to use as a tool, worked well. Putting the alternator back on via that method was less than a 10 min job.
I have a 2012 XC60 with 125,000. The warning charging light came on and the pulley had spun loose too. Your video saved me. Great instructions and directions. I went ahead and installed a new alternator and I'm sure I saved at least $1000 compared to what the dealer would charge for a new alternator. I did crack the Engine Coolant Recovery Tank Hose at the base of the elbow ($30) I have a clamp and electrical tape until I can order the new hose. I appreciate all the hard work putting videos like this online.
Thank you.
@@TheVolvoGuy Happy New Year. Thanks so much for your videos. My 2012 XC60 keeps throwing the P0430 system catalyst system efficiency below threshold, bank 2. I’ve tried different additives but I works like to change or clean the O2 sensors. There aren’t any videos on UA-cam. Any tips? Thanks
@Gregory Glover unfortunately you have a faulty catalytic converter, replacing O2 sensor or additives will not fix it.
@@g-groovie it's worth trying the laquer thinner cleaning trick on the catalytic before changing it
This just happened with my wife's truck. We all thought it was the alternator only. Come to find out it was the clutch not the pulley. We replaced the bolt on the clutch and tightened to specs! You just saved me a ton of money! Thanks my man!
Hi sir, how much torque did you use to tightened the clutch bolt on the alternator?
I'm prepping to replace alternator in a 2011 XC60 tomorrow, I'll be back with the good news, video has me feeling very optimistic
Let me know if you have any questions.
Man it took me a while to find this video. You should rename it. Volvo s60 alternator replacement. I have seen countless videos for my S60 but not as deep and thoroughly explained as yours. 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
You are the man top of the line my brother ❤😊some of these people shouldn't post videos you but u are the best
Thank you.
Really appreciate your putting this on UA-cam. Did the job yesterday on my 2012 T6. The manifold video helped too though thankfully the steps to remove the manifold on the T6 are easier. Plus I ended up cleaning the throttle body and replacing all the gaskets. Keep up the excellent work!
PS - the advice of getting a 5” hex bolt that’s 3/8” worked perfectly to hammer back in the metal sleeves.
Great video. Explained expertly with advice from experience. I learned a lot.
Thank you.
Thank you.
You should include Land Rover LR2 in your title description. It has the same Volvo motor in it. I have a 2010 LR2, and this video (and the intake manifold removal video) was way more informational and helpful than anything I found on UA-cam about Land Rovers. Might get you some more views and subs. Oh, and I really appreciate your help. Thanks!
Of course thank you.
@@TheVolvoGuy by the way, you kinda sound like Brad Pitt. lol
@@wildwetz lol never heard this one before haha
Great channel,Great tutorials. Bought my wife a dis-inflationary 10-XC90 3.2 .The 10th day of ownwershio it started the upset that would be identifiedas typical bad Alternator. It was not but engine gear bolt just sitting in the cavity .The alternator appears new . The process was complete ,red loctite was attempted,but other little things were not done.
+didnt let loctite set
+didnt hold gear on bolt torgue tightening sequence
+used old,exsisting bolt
IT was running fine for 6 days
2nd repair
+Bolt out again,gear spinning freely
+Gear was held
+Old Bolt was used & tighten again
It was runnning for another 6 days
3rd repair
+New bolt(green loctite used)
+Gear held tight & (Held on bolt torque)
+Lettng loctite set 12hours+
Car will be started up tommorrow mid morning
Job was completed 2hours two men,3rd same project.
1st time 3hours+
any idea's or guidance?
Newly Subscribed as i have been twisting on Volvos for some time and in the market for a 3.0 T6. Your doing a great service and really enjoy the effort. Good job and thank you.
thank you
Good thing the reman alternator come with the pulley on the unit. Never saw any other video mention the 2 pins that should be moved to the replacement unit
Yeah, it's important to line up and hold the alternator
Getting my alternator replaced on my 2007 Volvo XC90 V8 at 170,000 miles . Its one heck of a job. I guess the brushes have worn out inside the voltage regulator. I am curious to see once we disassemble the old one.
Hope it worked out.
The problem start with the both (triangle symbol and the battery symbol light came on and both were red')
car drove for 5min then died in nearby Gas station thank god for that
Thanks to your video it was the bolt that was loose like you said to check before you replace any parts
i used my finger to check and i noticed i could turn it clockwise and counter clockwise
Was able to return both the new alternator and pulley
All we did was replace the bolt WITH LOCK TIGHT GLUE just to be safe i
Its been 3days now and Truck is running and charging perfect " thanks a gain)))))
Good work you saved yourself a lot of money a lot of shops would of replaced your alternator as well.
Hello Volvo Guy. First off, thank you for sharing the information on this common problem (from what I've read, being a Volvo newbie and all). Second, thank you for answering my question in the comments. Had to search a bit, but I found them! Thanks again, keep up the good work! Cheers, John
No problem thank you.
i have an 07 xc90 3.2 190k and the "power system service urgent" warning msg came on today and windows/seats etc stopped working. My scanner showed charging volts was normal at 14 but then it went to 16 and then 17V after a couple minutes! Found the small coolant hose above the intake had coolant seepage residue all over it so it must have dripped straight down onto the alternator and shorted something. I yanked the intake (NOT FUN) and will try replacing just the VR to see if problem goes away. If not, new alternator.
at 4:54 you mention replacing the pulley and bolt and a special tool and a torque to reinstall. what is the part number for the special tool and what is the torque? also, should I polish the shaft before I reinstall the pulley? thanks!
303-1278 and 303-502 from any Jaguar-Land Rover dealer. The LR2 has the same engine.
Thanks.
Sorry, I didn't see your comment.
Thanks for the great video! I have a question about the pulley you are showing at 4 minutes into the video. On my car I can spin it as well as the alternator with the engine off. Im assuming its not supposed to do that. I'm getting a loud squeal coming from there when I run the engine. Also the battery doesn't seem to be charging. I'm thinking that pulley may be the culprit. Do you have any videos of changing this pulley out? When I looked up the part I think it was called the alternator clutch gear and flange screw. You also mentioned there were special tools for this install. Do you have the part numbers for the tools?
my car is making the same noise did u ever figure it out
Sorry, I did not see your comment.
Been looking for a video for this exact thing! Thank you so much for you indepth video i had a loose bolt and tighten it and 5hats all it took. Put it back together and runs perfect. Thank you so much
No problem at all.
I would like to watch you replace the the pulley on the idler pulley side. I have a loud sound and sure enough that pulley is locked up. It’s a 2008 Volvo S80 T6.
I might have on one of my cylinder head removal.
Excellent video. You sir, have earned yourself a new subscriber. Will save a FORTUNE over going to the dealer or even an indie shop. I can't imagine how much Alldata says to charge for this one. Lol
Thank you sir.
Hi, Great videos and help 😊
My xc70 has thrown the "urgent charging system" warning for a few years... just occasionally. Can't recall if the battery idiot light comes on. Anyway, i used to think it was the 'loose pulley bolt' situation, but after all these years i'm thinking it should just spin free by now and require the bolt to be torqued. (i did have batteries dying, but just needed the Sirius/satellite jumper). What could cause the warning to pop up so randomly, infrequently. Also, could the decoupled pulley be the problem? Does anything happen if that fails? 🤔 thx
Thank you. The light could come on for many different reasons it could be the alternator the control wire or battery voltage.
Do you have a video of how the replace PCV breather box for 3.0 inline 6 turbo.
By the way I love your your video and work. Keep it up. Thank you
Thank you. I have recorded a video for it am going to check and see if I have it. My phone broke and lost about 10 videos I recorded. Am trying to save some money to by a camcorder with tripod. Hopefully soon.
I have been a mechanic 30 years
You video is very good. Except
What is the torque for the two gears
And did you use any product, lock tight?
Thank you for such a great detailed video. Do you have info on the pulley and bolt you mentioned at 4:15 in this video? Mine is free spinning like you mentioned with going through the intake with a pry bar to see if it spins…
If it is spinning you have to replace the pully and the bolt.
The piece at the 5:14 mark has been locked with thread locker instead of being replaced, now it’s stuck and it sounds like the barrens are messed up (if there are any barrens) . I’m not sure what holds it to the pulley on the other side of the timing housing
Friction holds the pully on the shaft due to the shape and design, which is why when it slips, it has to be replaced. Now, the shaft that comes out of that unit does ride on bearings inside, and we have seen some problems with them.
What is the torque specs for the bolt
@@TheVolvoGuy what is the torque specs for the bolt
40nm@@jtsautomotiveandeverything480
Hello glad I found this video!
Helping a friend do theirs on their 2011 XC60 tomorrow & had a couple questions.
1. Hope & pray that pulley isn't spinning but if it is, can I not try tightening that center bolt down? If worth trying, what is torque spec?
2. Saying that's good, also wondering torque specs for 4 bolts that hold alternator, & 12 bolts for intake manifold.
Thanks a bunch in advance if you'd be so kind as to take time to answer my questions!
Great video as always
Thanks.
Hi, thanks for video. Like in the video we will have to replace the pulley and bolt for a 2011 xc60 t6 could you possibly help me find the part. Having a hard time finding part and tool needed. Thanks
You will need 999 7258 counter hold and the bolt you get from the dealer part number 982817 the pulley number 30750136.
Great video. About to tackle this soon. I would like a little more info on the decoupler pulley. Mechanic quoted me stupid high on an alternator job saying that he believes the decoupler pulley also needs changed. He quoted me $1600. I'm about to have the car towed back to my house to do myself. Just want to know what i woulc potentially be getting my self into with the pulley and seal. I was going to buy an alternator kit and decoupler/seal kit from FCPEuro.
Can we please get a video on replacing the very common to fail lower engine mount/torque arm?
Very clear explanation and sharp video. I am a layman w/2008 lr2 with possible timing chain or tensioner issue. How can the chain be easily checked for looseness?
No other way other than removing the outer timing cover.
Great video. I have all the bolts out and it moves a little but it does not want to come loose. Any suggestions? I don't want to try and lubricate it or hit it with a rubber hammer. I don't see those dowel pins.
I figured it out. It was those alternator spacers/sleeves that were corroded. I was able to actually save them to reuse. Are they absolutely necessary?
Yes, they are needed to hold the alternator tight since the bolts are going to hold the alternator from moving up or down.
I have used a drill bit, which is round, for punching the 2 dowels into the block.
Que bien es my ilustrativo y aprendi, el problema son las herramientas especiales. Me puede decir que parte del alternador estaba dañado?
Sorry, can you translate?
Great job on going through the process and making the job easier and I will definitely keep you updated on how it went t/y
Thanks for the vid. So when you tap your bolt tool in . that's placing the dowels into the block?
That's correct
Hi, Just had new (After-market) Alternator fitted. Everything work fine for exactly one week and then back to having Battery Symbol + Warning (!)Triangle on again with "No Charge" message being displayed. Any ideas?
After market alternators do not communicate very well, and when the ECM can not communicate with the Alternator control module, the light pops up.
@@TheVolvoGuy Thank you for replying. However, it's not just the light being on, it is definitely not charging.
Thanks for the video it was very helpful. I replaced my alternator on 2009 s80 3.2 . When I took the alternator off the gear was loose. I thought I got it tight. Well you know the problem. Alternator is not spinning because of the gear loosen up again. So I'm going to have to take it apart again. What tools do I need to fix and tighten the gear. Thank you
Paul T Brown
There is not much tool needed but replace the pulley and use a new bolt and some lock tight.
hi. i need to do my alternator which this video is a lot of help but my question is i have 2012 xc60 3.2 and i have pressure building up in my engine to the point where when i remove my oil cut its wants to blow it upwards i believe it has something to do with my pcv system but im not exactly sure if you have any suggestions i would greatly appreciate it. thank you
Usually, we get extra vacuum, but you could try to replace the pcv box on top of the engine.
Great video. I have to do the same thing. I would to put in a order for the special tools I will need
You will need to order it from the dealer or Volvotechinfo.com
It was a great video, Question sir, How much torque to use on the alternator clutch bolt? Thank you in advance.
45 nm
Thanks for a great video, very clear in explaining the steps and noting special elements that make it easier. I'm interested in the special tool for the for the installation of the toothed drive pully on the alternator side of the gear housing. The bolt backed out on my car thus I need to replace per your guidance. Can you advise what the tool # is for the installation tool?
Yes I will get you the tool number I would use couple of drops of lock tight.
There are two tools for the pulley, one is 303-1278 Aligner, Timing Cover and the other is 303-502, Socket, Flywheel Bolt.
Great video. Thanks for the heads up on having to pull off the pully from the old to the new alternator. Any recommendation on getting that plastic cover for the pully that you have to remove? Also any recommendations on where to get those 6 rubber gaskets that need to be replaced?
Great video. For the pulley on shaft what tool do you use for proper installation? I have a 2012 Volvo XC60 that i installed an alternator. But i notice that pulley was loose so i tighten it . But when i finish install my battery is not charging. Any tips is much appreciated
Is the alternator spinning and if yes what is the voltage output from the alternator?
Alternator spins then slow down and doesnt spinn for 10 second then it starts to spend again 🙄
@@GSXRIDER09 it's never supposed to stop spinning
thanks great videos i have freelander 2 I6 need to replace thermostat and check for water leak under inlet manifold do i need to remove this inlet manifold
Yes you can I know people who have done it with out removing the intake on a volvo.
thanks again for this, i have everything ready and am just waiting on the bolt to arrive. Can you send me the torque specs for the pulley bolt and the intake bolts? thank you in advance.
45nm, I will double-check. I know it's in the comments somewhere lol.
are you still taking questions on this channel? My XC90 is getting high mileage (240K) and will likely be doing this alternator/belt/seal job soon. My engine is leaking oil in a couple of places now. It also burns or uses 3 quarts between oil changes.
2011 lr2 have what sounds like a noisy pulley around my ac compressor area. Almost sounds similar to a slight rod knock motor is completely healthy and sound is independent from rpm. Would the pulley under the ax compressor be a culprit ? Have replaced the idler and tensioner on that main belt system the noise still persists.
What happens if you don't have anything to push the dowel pins back in to the engine? Can you install it with them just staying flush on the alternator?
What special tool do you need for transmission side pulley
6:19
Hello, what and awesome video thanks so ,much. I need to tighten the clutch gear that is mounted to the engine. I cannot find the torque spec for the M10x30 bolt. I looked everywhere and only found the torque spec for the alternator pulley. If you know the specification please share it. Thank you in advance. Tom
It is 40Nm
Thank you for this video and the one with the intake. Question, the pulley is part of the transmision? I can't find a part number for it. Thank you.
The drive pully is part of the engine, lookup alternator drive pully.
@TheVolvoGuy i removed my alternator seal and dowels were missing. That bolt also was red loctited in. I think there was a subpar alternator job done in the past. Do you have any idea where i can find those dowels or how important they are?
Happy new year!! I have some questions. I need to replace ac compressor. But I can’t find low pressure and high pressure port on my 2008 xc70. Are there hidden somewhere?
Thank you, one on the service port high pressure is by the power steering bottle on the passenger side, the low pressure line is under the wipers Cowell not hard to get to.
The Volvo Guy thanks a lot. Seems like you know everything about volvo👍😁
@@JoeSushiMaster71 I work on Volvos every day...
@@JoeSushiMaster71 and you are welcome
The Volvo Guy no wonder you are so good😁，always thank you master.
Hi. Ref the alternator pulley, is there a seal inside that can leak? Because I have an oil leak from there, as far as I can see. I replaced the seal on the other side, towards the AC compressor, but I still have a leak from that area.
I final got the intake manifold removed after some fiddling per my post on that video. I have the issue you mentioned around the 5:00 mark that the sprocket (pulley) bolt on the engine side has come loose. Your mentioned in the video to contact you for more info on replacing the sprocket, bolt and the tool needed. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
You have to replace the bolt and the pulley on the engine side you can use some lock tight if you want.
@@TheVolvoGuy You mention that a special tool is needed. I'm assuming that's to hold the pulley while you tighten the bolt. Is this not needed?
Also, are there any torque spec's for the pulley nut, alternator bolts, and manifold bolts?
@@gregpaprocki9765 yes the tool is to hold the pulley if you can get the bolt tight without it that would work I will get you the torque specs for that bolt.
@@TheVolvoGuy can you please advise a torque spec for this bolt?
Thank You
@@stanislavkodak492 which bolt?
Please kindly advise the torque of the loosing blot. Thank you so much.
which bolt you need the torque specs for?
Great video! Do you have a video on replacing a timing chain? I have a 2013 S60 T6 R design that I was planning on doing, but I can't find anything on the internet about replacing a timing chain
Yes I do.
@@TheVolvoGuy awesome I'll check it out!
Thanks for the detailed timing chain videos, I just finished watching them all. After talking to my local Volvo mechanic I've decided to wait on the timing chain as there's no issues with it currently, but I am replacing the auxiliary belt, tensioner and idler pulley as well as the water pump. My question is, the water pump is as straight forward as it looks right? (No special tools, I don't have to pull the outer timing cover etc) I have a 2013 S60 T6 R-Design
@@isaiahmoore626 that is correct you just unbolt it an bolt the new one on. No special tools or anything else
Helpful Indeed👍🏿
Thank you.
Why did the new alternator have black lacquer (exposure to heat?) on its stator windings? Was it a remanufactured one?
@thevolvoguy The drive on the right is super sloppy, it is like the bearings are worn out. For the life I me I cannot figure out how to replace them. Do I have to pull the timing cover? Any help would be much appreciated!.
@thevolvoguy just replaced alternator. Still not getting proper charging voltage. Digging deeper and I'm reading to need to possibly reset bms. Any tips or ideas?
Did you install new gasket rings for the intake manifold?
Whats isl the torque spec on the bolt that gets loose on the pulley?
Sorry, I didn't see this in time.
@@TheVolvoGuy No problem, your video was helpful.
Thanks. Great video...if I don't have a "secret tool" can I just pull those peices off and tap them into the new alternator?
Yes you can but you have to tap pins back in
Great Job, Thank you, do you change the intake casket when you do open this, also I have the 2012 XC70, I had an alignment and they told me that the rear tire Camber is out and they are not able to adjust to specs, I have changed the rear control arms and they told me the same thing on the second alignment, what is your opinion, mine that the place I took it to don't understand this car
If the gaskets look okay and not dry i reuse them. As far as the alignment check the trailing arm bushings.
Could you give more details about the pulley of the alternator, my LR2 pulley is back out a little bit, how I can replace it with that special tool
sorry I did not get back to you sooner. do you still need the Info?
2010 XC 60, alternator seems to be on the outs. Vehicle died on the highway (battery not getting charge warning popped up), couldn't turn it over and get going again. Once the A/C and fan were going it fired up. Not sure if it's the pulley, but I'd like to see how to test that.
You have to see if charging voltage is normal when the engine is running
Is the alternator special pulley tool the same as the tool for the decoupler pulley driving the other accessories? I have that one. Thanks for the great videos!
yes the tool that hold the pulley is the same.
Great detailed video- thank you! Do you have info about the pulley and bolt replacement you mentioned at 4:15 in this video?
Thanks for the video! What’s the name of the tool you use at to lock the pulley in place?
It's just a conter hold tool
Great video! You keep saying throughout the comments section that if that clutch gear bolt has backed off, you need to replace the pulley along with the bolt. Is it REALLY necessary to replace the pulley? Can't you just retighten the bolt with some loc-tite as you mention?
If it IS absolutely necessary to replace the pulley, how do you get the old one off? Is it just held in by that one bolt, and after removing the bolt you can just pull it off by hand? Or do you need some kind of removal tool? Thank you
When the bolt is torqued The pulley is held on to the shaft by friction lock When the pulley spins due to the bolt back and off it caused damage to the pulley and it's highly recommended to be replaced If you're removing an old one yes you will need a tool to pull the old pulley off the shaft.
@@TheVolvoGuy which tool? Do you have a part number to reference? Awesome video, this is the exact issue with my 2014 S60 T6
I researched a bit more and see that they are the counterhold tool (9997258) and puller (9997259) to remove and replace the 30750136 (clutch gear) and 982817 (flange screw). Can you point me to these tools or anyone you know that might have them? Or have you found a way to remove the clutch gear without the specialty tool?
@@jasongallia I think I listed the tools in my description
I been watching all your video, I need to know how to remove the rediator of T6 Turbo
It comes out the bottom it is not the easiest radiator I have done. Also the bumper have to come out. Send your email and I might be able to help you out.
Dude this was most helpful, ty big time for making and sharing. Have you any guidance on XC70 2009 32 6 cyl timing belt / serpentine replacement?
You are welcome. Sorry, I didn't see this in time.
very educative. Thank you regrads
Thank you.
So my alternator is not charging and I can spin the coupling no problem. so guessing the bolt/ Alternator Clutch Gear are toast. On a forum somebody mentioned "The likely root cause of this is that the free-wheel clutch on your alternator has failed and needs to be replaced" Car has 104k miles. Is this possibly true, is there a way to test?
So with the engine off can you spin the alternator either direction?
@@TheVolvoGuy yes. And I can see the internals of the alternator moving. If I replace just the gray gear and it's bolt do I need a special tool for just those?
@@mattlikesbikes you will need a tool to hold the gray gear while you torque the bolt. You will need a new bolt and the gray gear and a dab of lock tight.
@@TheVolvoGuy any reason to question the integrity of the alternator clutch as suggested by a swedespeed forum response?
@@mattlikesbikes you can inspect it once you remove the alternator it should lock one way and spin free the other way.
great video, but i have some questions. i changed the alternator and the battery. voltage test on the battery with car off is now 12.9 V and with the car on the voltage is 13.6 V. that is with a brand new battery and alternator. isn't the alternator supposed to be putting out at least 14.2 V? what could be wrong now?
Thank you.
Was the alternator after market? Or from the dealer? And when the engine is running do you have charging system fault?
@@TheVolvoGuy its an aftermarket alternator. do not have a charging system fault with the engine running.
@@mickeyflowers then you should be okay the ECM (engine control module) controls the charging voltage.
@@TheVolvoGuy ok, i thought that might be what was happening. I read that somewhere. while I have your attention, why does that bolt back out of the coupler on the engine? I cleaned up the inside surface and on the shaft and then used some lock tight to put the bolt back on. i want to make sure that bolt doesn't come loose again.
@@mickeyflowers more likely it was never torqued properly to start with. But with some lock tight it will be okay.
hi everyone trying to get some information on a 2008 Land Rover LR2. What is the name of the pulley the alternator fits up against that the bolt loosens and stops the alternator from charging. Also what is the tool needed to hold the pulley
The tool number is 999 7258 you can use a belt oil wrench tool as well. The pully part number is 30750136 the bolt is 982817 this is Volvo part numbers
I would have the same questions as many others. What is the tool for holding the decoupling pulley. I can't seem to find the right search words to find it on my own.
The tool number is 999 7258 counter hold. You can buy at volvotechinfo.com under special tools its 28.77
Hey guys I have a 2011 Volvo s60T6AWD and when the car is at regulator temp and I accelerate slow at 600 to 800 RPMs it creates a lout rattle. Can it be that the alternator coupler bearing gone bad ? I had my wife accelerate and bring the RPMs to no more than 800rpms and I can see the belt that goes on the alternator move sideways just a bit. I want to replace but before doing so I would like some info if I should replace the alternator pulley like in this video?
If you remove the alternator make sure the pulley is ok, to be honest with you I never seen a noise caused by the alternator belt it might be you alternator bearing but with me not being there and hearing the noise it is hard for me to pin point it.
How do you replace the valve cover gasket on a T6 3.0t engine without removing the engine? Thx.
I have posted videos online for that its the same procedure with the engine in the car.
Hi,
Do you have any videos on how to remove the fuel rail with the injectors? It looks like the last one on the left side, below the torque mount, is impossible to remove without removing the engine mount. Sorry for the off topic.
You have to lower the engine by loosening the 3 bolts for the motor mount. Make sure not to drop it too much you can use a floor jack to support the engine if you do that then you can remove the engine mount completely.
@@TheVolvoGuy Thank you for the quick reply. Is there anything else I should be careful of after this, or it should be straight forward? Also, do you know the torque value for re-tightening the engine mount bolts?
Awesome video, Sir!
Do you normally see the coupler spinning when the engine is running? I'm assuming the answer is yes, but checking to confirm.
What is the diameter and length of the alignment bolt you used?
Yes you will see it spinning. I honestly never Measured it.
The "Special tool" Do I NEED it or is it just helpful to get the hole open a bit more for the bottom bolts ?
The tool helps to push the pins back in the block.
@@TheVolvoGuy is it super difficult without the special tool ? Like if I don’t have it, what is my other option ? I’m starting in the morning 8AM central
@@IICockyENT not hard at all you can do it with out it.
I own a 2010 XC60 T6 R-design and I just replaced the alternator as per your video. But when I started the car it hunts and will not idle and when it tries to settle on idle it runs rough and hunts one more time and then it dies????? It is a 150 amp alternator.
What was the reason you replaced the alternator? And did you plug the throttle body back all the way in?
@@TheVolvoGuy I had been having a problem with charging the battery and a test revealed that it was the alternator. I'm embarrassed to say that I could not get the throttle body to cooperate, then upon trying today (07/17/21) it just slipped together by itself. Also THANKS for your quick responce.
Glad to help.
@@TheVolvoGuy I love my car but I still can't start it. I'm 73 and I can't wrench on it with humidity in the 80%, just about killed myself. But I have always loved a challenge.
I been watching all your video, I need to know how to replace water pump on 09 s80 3.2
As soon as I get a chance I will do. Thank you
Awesome mechanic work ,,,and explaining how is done.... it’s the same for a 2011 xc60 3.2 ?
Thank you. And yes it is the same way.
Can I buy the manifold gasket and the alternator pulley removing tools from you ,,,or can you give me the numbers for the part ,,,,,my daughters 2011 xc60 3.2 is giving a message “charging failure service urgent “” there is a smell of burn coming from the alternator so I’m assuming is going bad ,thanks so much
Hey brother where can I find the pully and the bolt from ?? Are they the same pully as the Alternater side ?? Please send me a link 🙏
Dealership, I don't know of any other place. The dealership can provide you with the part numbers, and then you search those numbers online.
After putting everything back together and jump starting the new battery, I have reduced engine performance code, check engine light and traction control temporarily off. I tried letting it run for awhile and restarting it 3 times. Any other ideas? Unfortunately I let someone borrow my code reader yesterday.
The new battery that I replaced before realizing the alternator was bad is holding 12.3 volt charge with engine off.
Check the throttle connector. Also, I have seen a new noun dealer alternator to be bad out of the box. Make sure you have good charging voltage with the engine running.
Hi , do you have the torque spec for the decoupler gear screw? Didn't find it in the comments or internet yet . Thanks
It is 40NM
Hello Volvo guy I have a 2008 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD with 173,000+ miles. Recently I replaced the timing cover seal with help from your video because I was having a bad oil leak. I am still noticing oil on the alternator side not much but some. Do you have any idea if the alternator side seal is known to leak oil? With 173,000+ miles on mine should I just go ahead and replace it? What is the part number? And do I need any special Volvo tools? Thanks I look forward to hearing back from you.
We have seen them leak and it is a reverse lip seal watch my video on the lip seal it will need a special tool to install it.
The Volvo Guy I used the Volvo tool 9997265 to replace the timing cover seal on the belt side. Is it the same tool for the Alternator side seal? I found part number 30711317 as Alternator side seal. Is that correct seal?
@@salvadortomas9521 I would have to look it up. the tool is different the same concept but different size.
The Volvo Guy there isn’t much information about it that’s why I’m asking. It’s my wife’s daily driver so I need to know before taking it apart.
@@salvadortomas9521 send me your email and I can email you some information on Monday.
Sorry, previous query relates to Volvo V70 Mk3 /D5
No problem
Sooo... my pulley was loose, exactly as you described. Any information you can provide about replacing the pulley and bolt would be greatly appreciated. I'm having a hard time finding the part.
I would go to a volvo dealer replace the pulley and the bolt.
@@TheVolvoGuy Thanks for the quick reply, man. I'm going to head over there on Monday. I do everything through a mom and pop here in Dayton, because my local Volvo Dealership is hot garbage and has tried to scam me out of thousands of dollars in the past. I found a few places online that have the pulley, but no mention of the bolt anywhere.
Also, if you hadn't made this video and the one about the intake, I don't know how long it would have taken to get that intake manifold off... thank you for your service to the Volvo community!!!
@@dwightschrute08 if you like I can buy them for you and ship them to you I know some dealers do that and makes look bad unfortunately
@@dwightschrute08 no problem and good luck.
Great video... After watching this and the intake removal video, I feel confident to DIY on my S80 3.2. I've never done this kind of task before. plan to replace my alternator this weekend..
Any suggestions on where I can find or purchase a tool that you use on the reinstall to align those two bottom bolts?
Thank you. There is no tool really the best way to do it is to find a long bolt to be small to fit through the holes and big enough to push the pins. If you have any other questions let me know. I can send you the one I have.
The tool to install the dowels on the two bottom bolts is 303-1255 on the Land Rover LR2 service manual. You can ask any dealer for one or order one from the JLR tools web site.
Not sure if the bolt backed out on me. Gap at the pulley is about an 1/8" from where it seats? Is the pulley supposed to be about flush?
It's not supposed to be flush.
What's the special tool that let you tighten the bolt for the head gear that turned the alternator
Sorry do you still need help?
Why the need for the locating pin tool?
Can you please do a video on the serpentine belt....I tried to change mine and I got it off most of the way but I could not get the belt off the bottom pulley which I think that's the water pump pulley....does that pulley have to come off in order to get the rest of the serpentine belt off?
What engine you working on si6 T6? And what model?
Volvo guy...I figured out the serpentine belt issue....the part of your video about the bolt that sometimes backs out and has to be retorqued...what is the torque value and could you tell me the tool to hold the pulley in place and what that pulley is called so I can find a replacement......also on the dowel pins...you mentioned you made those line up bolts to push the dowel pins back in the block...could you tell me what size and length bolts you used to push the dowel pins back into the block......
My engine is a 3.2 inline v6 non turbo
2011 Volvo S80 3.2 inline v6
What do you think about the quality of refurbished alternators from NAPA?
A lot of problems,