I have a 2010 V70 R Design and I love your videos. They are very detailed which gives me great confidence in working on my car. I know it's very time consuming to do these videos but it would be amazing if you did more videos like drive belt replacement , starter replacement , axle replacement and just anything like that. You are doing a great job of saving people money. It's $900 to replace drive belt and water pump is one example. Again I know it's hard to do these videos so any help is bigger than you probably know. Thank you for what you do.
I've been trying to figure out why my 2015 s60 has been absolutely swallowing oil with no leaks under the car or noticeable in the engine bay thank god I found this video
100% spot on and here's what I can tell you from my personal experience - 52000 miles 2012 S60 T6 AWD w Polestar upgrade - let me first say I love this S60 Volvo in the T6 configuration and with the Polestar upgrade it's fast as h-ll and handles outstandingly well with DWS06+ high contact Continental tires - I also owned a new 2011 C30 2.5l T5 FWD (traded-in July, 2013), a new 2011 C70 2.5l T5 FWD with Polestar upgrade (sold July, 2022 to Carvana for more than half what I paid for it in 2012) and a new 2012 fully loaded S60 T6 R-Design AWD - this was a CHERRY and I wish I kept it but way too expensive to buy-out at the time (lease return Sept. 2015) -- generally speaking I liked all the cars I've owned from Volvo, but each one of them had its own set of issues. None crushingly expensive, but definitely required out-of-pocket spend and ALWAYS a hassle with the service department at the dealership - every time it's a full on battle so you have to have some internal fortitude and FACTS. That always gets them. On all of them #1 top problem - RDR "Low-battery" - on previous models it came and went and wasn't a big issue since they were daily drivers - with current S60 car at 40000 miles after sitting a bit during the pandemic - which led to replacing a perfectly good battery and an additional low-battery sensor, because my service dealer in NJ misdiagnosed the parasitic draw as a battery problem and a damaged sensor $600 US - subsequently after researching and learning about ongoing RDR problems and still experiencing low-battery with the new battery, I contacted VOLVO USA and after a month of complaining they authorized an electric system troubleshooting diagnostic and replacement RDR at no charge, but by that time the second battery was already damaged at 50000 miles so I just replaced it myself for half the dealer cost since they would not honor any warranty on the battery and they wanted to prorate the cost -- #2 AOC pump at 51000 miles - service dealer would not clean or rebuild the old one and the new replacement was $1300 US (total ripoff) -- #3 all emblems fell off, but no charge since there was an active recall on them -- #4 seat belts getting stuck randomly, but also no charge since there was an active recall on them -- #5 exterior window trim fading and spotting, no recall and service dealer wanted $1100 US to replace so I bought black trim sealer from Amazon for $25 US and fixed it myself -- #6 A/C compressor at 32000 miles but was still under one or more warranties so no charge - #7 yellowed and hazed headlights 51700 miles - I refurbished them but still looked cosmetically wrong even though they were about 90% cleaned up - since the rest of the car is immaculate I bought a pair of new ones for $1375 US and installed them myself - really easy #8 warped rotors - the original Volvo installed rotors are absolute garbage thankfully all were under warranty except for my current car which I upgraded to a set (4) of high quality German made rotors.
Sorry you had to deal with all that unfortunately dealerships don't have good techs and they nor willing to pay to have good techs but unfortunately I have seen S60's with all the problems in one vehicle and that is overwhelming.
@@TheVolvoGuy The main issue is the lack of proper training, lack of timely technical/service bulletins, or reviewing these bulletins by mechanics, and troubleshooting skills - the RDR was there for a while but the mechanics didn't know about it or they were just sloppy - there's always the possibility that the service manager also just ripped me off and he was unpleasantly surprised when he got a call from Volvo US with my complaint - in the end he had to do the proper job anyway so it evened out - there are so many times when I go into the shop for even basic maintenance and I now doublecheck everything they do (if I can) before I pay them (like oil level after oil change and making sure everything is tight and clean in the engine bay)
My T6 had a Lean code. I replaced both Oxygen sensors, No help. It started squealing so I found That the EVP was leaking. I found the diaphragm with the cap online. Cap was included because they break. It took about two minutes to crack the cap off, lay the diaphragm in place and push the new cap on. Fixed for about $25.
I have the v60 2012 the car has been parked for afew months and there is a water leak both driver and passenger side if u can help what is causing it or where the water is coming from the car does not have sunroof thanks
Hi I have checked windscreen that seems fine water comes in from elsewhere.Noticed some water in boot.Also if you know the locations of all holes which can cause this I would check every single one to sort this out thanks
I am trying to add a comment for the PCV Diaphragm issue specified at @5:52 everywhere I can because it baffled the crap out of me, and plenty have searched for it, without getting good info. If you replace the PCV diaphragm, or the entire oil catch can, and your "new" pcv "Honks" or "Kazoos" it's air slipping past the diaphragm because it's either 1. Not pressed on right from the factory (or you yourself didn't press it on all the way) or 2. The factory installed diaphragm is "too" flexible (seen on several from Volvo recently). It actually takes a LOT more expected force to completely press the diaphragms onto the oil catch than is apparent, and many are coming FROM suppliers not pressed on all the way. So it will just honk, or make a kazoo noise, as the engine sucks in air past the incorrectly installed diaphragm. Again, that might not seem like a big thing, but they're coming from supplies, including VOLVO, not pressed on correctly
I've just bought a '15 v60 t6 premier + and added the polestar optimization to her. She's low miles, 44k km's (27k miles). This was a good video to know what to watch out for. My previous car was an 04 v70 2.5t with over 250k miles.
This content is most informative. I am looking at P3 Volvos to replace my SAAB wagon; and I have narrowed my search to a V60 Cross Country with the 2.5L, a XC60 T6 AWD, or XC70 T6. The oil consumption issues have been a real worry for me but you have done an excellent job at explaining the root cause and the required fix. You have a new subscriber.
Watching this again after two yrs. Doing my pcv and AOC next week. Other than money not hard jobs. . I wish I could get my battery drain sorted but other than that happy with the p3 and glad you have one too that I am lucky enough to watch you work on. Thanks.
@@TheVolvoGuy I did my best too do a full parasitic drain test and came up with lots of fuses causing trouble; I may have done it wrong, not sure what you mean by check the radio. I could not even find it.... think its under the seat or something. Any guidance would be appreciated. Right now I have all the fuses pulled from the car to stop doing the battery....
@@TheVolvoGuy YV4940BZ7D11473D8. I am not a pro mechanic by any means and bought all sorts of electronic tools like amp clamp and multi meters to figure this out. So frustrating and such a great car. And it only has 76k on it. Thanks for checking on it.
I have a 2017 Volvo s60 T6. I am hearing a low rumble type noise. Only happens when driving, continues after rolling down hill in neutral. Seems to be related to suspension.
Cool video. The oil consumption sucks 😄 Volvo said to get a new engine but just refilling the oil sounds better to me. Another thing to add is the HVAC blower fan howl, annoying thing that is lol
@@sbellosa from what I’ve seen on UA-cam, you can replace the blower motor because it becomes loose. But in that same video there was a screw that they had missing. I’ve never tried to fix it but I wonder if maybe that screw falls out over time and makes it howl 😆
The PCV was used on several other European car brands and had a design issue that caused engine oil consumption and piston ring damage. The PCV box was replaced with an improved design. The XC60 had windshield leak issues in the first years, leaking on electronics under the dash. The biggest XC60 problem was the automatic transmission, it would start having a delayed and harsh engagement when shifted from P to D, internal seal fault, not repairable. The Behr cabin blower also has a short lifespan on all P3 cars, and unfortunately Volvo placed the blower in the middle of the dash, difficult to access and also requires a specific tool for removal.
Good info... I've got 2015 xc70 t6 that has that whistling. I attributed it to a pulley or tensioner. I'm Gina check that PCV valve tonight. I think i have that battery drain too. Austin. Great info. Thank you.
Excellent breakdown of some of the issues that affect the various models. Really appreciate your efforts ;) Have now subscribed and will take a look through your other videos.
I have a 2013 S60 T5 AWD. Only 40,000 miles after 10 years (but is driven regularly up to operating temps). I change my oil annually or 2500 miles which ever comes first hoping to avoid ring clogging and subsequent high oil consumption (presently burns zero oil). Did a 3-stage drain/fill on the tranny at 38,000 +. Just had timing/serpentine belt & tensioner replaced due to age, not miles. Going to ride her out as long as possible. Only issue has been a intermittent, but persistent steering wheel shake that begins about 55MPH and seems to go through a cyclic phase of coming/going. Inspection found nothing and wheels are fine and balanced.
Hi, this might be an early sign of driveshaft or wheel bearing failure. It's not too bad and you can keep driving until it gets worse or more pronounced. Wheel bearing while make a whining noise, driveshaft will make a clicking noise. Could also be warped brake disks or a slight imbalance in the wheel (yes, I know you said u got it balanced but the only balance one axis). Might wanna get that checked by a professional - as that's cheaper than the other two options.
I have a 2012 S60 T5 and my piston rings failed at 98K which caused a misfire which cracked the cylinder head. Found a low mileage used engine and had it installed.
For Certified cars purchased on or after November 1, 2018, the Certified by Volvo provides a 5-year/unlimited-mile exclusionary coverage from the original in service date of the car. Vehicles that were originally sold as Certified Pre-Owned prior to November 1, 2018, the Certified Pre-Owned warranty provides 7-year/100,000-mile coverage.
Just subscribed. Great information. I'm watching your videos to get myself educated on Volvo. I'm currently looking at a 2010 XC60 T6 AWD with 140k miles. Took it for a test drive today and drove very well. Engine sounded very good, no weird noise. Only problem is the AC is not working. I have 2 questions, what is your opinions on high mileage cars especially this XC60? Is the AC in these cars problematic and what could be the issue? Thanks Keep up the good work!
If i would to take a guess 🤔 on the A/C I would say its the compressor the clutches fails on them. But as far as the engine on that they do hold up very good if you keep up with the maintenance. Make sure the drive belt and pulleys have been changed.. thank you.
Thank you A LOT. My 2012 T6 S60 has the belt noise problem related to the breath box. Made the test with the dipstick and it worked. I'm going to replace the diaphragm and hopefully it will work!!!! 🤞🏽
Great video, I've been looking into the AWD V60s available on the used market this has been extremely helpful. Pretty disappointing that the 5 cylinders look to be the least reliable engines in these cars
P2 and P3, the driver's door wire harness is vulnerable to wire-jacket stripping, copper metal-fatigue breakage, short-circuits between wires, etc. The factory zip-tie is too severe & inflexible as a restraint, and is the root cause of wire chafing. It should be replaced with a softer cable-bundle restraint (velcro strap or electrical tape). Prevention is your best option, as repairing these wires poses a major headache.
First off, thank you for taking your time to make these informative videos. I have a 2016 T5 2.0. I had the original plugs changed out at 65k. The car now has 88k and started to experience some engine hesitation which led to the “reduced engine power” mode. The cel came on and then I read the codes which where p0300 along with 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304. I cleared the codes then the P0304 kept showing. I swapped coils around to see if it was a bad coil on #4. That didn’t resolve the issue. Decided to pull the plugs, and on #4 the plugs electrode was mostly gone along with a piece of ceramic. Replaced all 4 plugs with ngk iridium. No cel, but under hard acceleration I experience a few misfires before she takes off and runs smooth. I’m thinking that the broken plug might have done more damage. I’ve heard of these problems from other owners, but curious why the plugs had this happen. Is it something deeper than just plugs. Thinking it might be a bigger problem. What would your thought be. Kinda nervous about keeping the car now, even though we love it. Also, from what I’ve read, it seems like the problems have been fixed with the 17 model year, is that correct?
I have always stuck with dealer parts as far as replacing the plugs. But we also did have problems with fuel injectors we would replace the injector on the cylinder that still shows a misfire after replacing the plugs and switching the coils over if the misfire does not move with the coil.
Hello, love your channel, I have a 2010 XC60 T6 I think B6304T2 with passenger side, front cam leak, below engine mount. What kind of repair am getting into? thanks!
Great videos. I am a fan. You have helped me out considerably. Thank you I have an XC 60 2012. I noticed a leak coming from one of the metal power steering lines under car. How hard is it to replace the lines? What is involved.
YEP...we were a victim of #6 on our 2013 S60 T6. Due to tight spaces, and an exceptionally uncooperative hose connection, it was a nightmare to replace. But I only spent $255 (including buying a new floor jack) to do it myself versus $1,200 to have the local dealership do the work!
Great summery video: I have 09 S80 T6. The AM radio has lot of static noise. What could be issue? FM works perfectly fine. 209k miles on it, no oil consumption. Drive strong. Thank you.
Was thinking of purchasing a 2013 S60 T5 with 125k, what do you think. Currently have a 99 S70 2.4 non turbo with 320k, the best running car I’ve ever owned as far as mileage. The interior not so much, cheap plastic is falling apart, leather holding up surprisingly well, clear coat has failed and peeling, no rust, a Midwest car. Also an 04 V70R with a miss in cylinder 3 that I haven’t been able to figure out yet. Runs incredibly rich from no combustion in that cylinder from low compression. Need to do a leak down test next and see if that turns anything up. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks. Loved the video!
Thanks for the video, very helpful, had to fix a few of those on my XC60 T6 2010, I got the low oil warning every now and then, but its always when its on its max level (bad reading) or above (its the wife car, very short trips only, car barely gets warm, so I suspect I get fuel in my oil that doesn't evaporates, so it raises the level.) when I draw a little oil out it tends to vanish. not sure if replacing the oil level sensor will help, as I suspect that warning is not only for low oil but oil quality or over max warning as well
Its more likely a bad level sensor this sensor will not trigger the light for high oil level. You got to drive that vehicle on high RPM for a little bit to clear some of the carbon build up as well not warming up the engine good before driving not a good thing for that motor specially of its a very short trips.
@@TheVolvoGuy Thanks a lot! I make my wife wait at least a minute+ till the engine is warm and the RPMs on idle went down to 650+-. also I make her wait 1 minute before shutting the engine
Watching you talk about the b5254t belt reminds me of my co worker when he changed the ac clutch on a p1 chassis and not the belt. Belt got torn apart into the timing. Guess things happen!
It happens a lot on the b5244t engines one time a shop replaced the head and the belt got it fixed and never replaced the belt tensioner and 70 miles after the repair it happened again.
Update Oct. 2023: The engine suddenly started burning a quart every 200 miles and losing power. The engine has 76k miles and the mechanic says it needs a full rebuild. I traded it in for a BMW. My 2013 S60 has all of these issues. The only real way to fix oil consumption is an engine teardown and rebuild (new rings and possibly pistons). I found that using an engine flush product and switching to Liqui Moly 5W-40 worked to reduce oil consumption to around 1 liter/2500 mi. Before using the engine flush product it burned quite a bit more oil. This will definitely be my last Volvo. Needing an engine teardown and rebuild after 70k miles is unacceptable. I will just keep pouring more oil into it, and if it eventually breaks down, I'll just junk the car. Volvos are priced like German luxury/performance cars but have the build quality of a cheap econobox.
@@gofastclad974 I used Liqui-Moly engine flush. It worked well enough to get an extra year out of the car, but any Volvo with this engine is on borrowed time.
I have a volvo s60 '12 1600 diesel D2 and with the first start of the day the engine goes out and starts again but when I press the gas a little it is fine. What could be wrong?
Thank you for all the helpful information. Can you please do a review on the new 4cylinders specifically the T5 eco in the 2015 S60 and V60? I’m very close to buying one but heard some mixed reviews. Keep up the awesome content.
i have a 2015 s60 premier eco and I love it its super fun to drive but there will be costly repairs im at 85000 miles and ive had to replace nearly everything in the engine bay except for the motor itself and the turbo
OMG I don't even know how I forgot about that lol you are 100% right. Strut bearing fail a lot and we replace them daily it completely slipped my mind that should be one of the most common problems.
Hi: Can you please tell me the recall campaign # for the Volvo Decals(front grill/steering wheel). Also, do you know about recalls of the chrome trim inside the steering wheel (peeling/sharp edges). “Great Vids” Thanks
TJ#31750 for the airbag I can not find the one for the front grill, but if you call your local dealership, they should be able to help. Plus, it's not that much money to begin with.
I appreciate this video. By the time I found it I had already learned about some of these issues, but not all. I was never one too interested in trying to work on a car, but after buying a used XC60 T6 and putting a lot of miles on it, I no longer had any other choice. I realize now that the first repair I paid for-replacing the alternator, might have been only a bolt problem. I can’t find much information on a replacement catalytic converter. My mechanic( I’ve done a lot to my car, but I’m not able to work on the exhaust system.) He replaced it with an AM cat and my car runs terribly unless I’m going at least 50. An OEM CAT IS 1400-1700 and he thinks I may have no choice if I want my engine to run right. ( I’ve had a few intermittent cat not running efficiently codes, but I drive at high speed for long periods. Are there any specific AM cats that are reasonably priced that will do the job right on my car?
@@Skessu Thank you for responding. I just had an old recall issue taken care of at the Volvo dealership and they mentioned all of the Volvo owners who had to come in with AM cats that weren’t working well. Your response gives me hope that I might not have to get an OEM cat after already spending money on the parts and labor for an AM one.
@@badmuddafadda not sure what AM cat is exactly but you often see these spacers installed with aftermarket downpipes that of course have a cat that has fewer cells. Search ELEVATE REAR O2 SENSOR SPACER FOR DOWNPIPE for example Edit: oh just AM, aftermarket
@Darkstar Star I personally do not know of any aftermarket that worked it either does not fit right or check engine light comes on, but I really do not hear about the ones that work.
@@Skessu I ended up putting on a spacer, I’ve been dealing with this for months. I’m beginning to think my mechanic changed out the cat because the Volvo cats can be worth up to $400 in scrap.
I own a 2013 S60 T5 and am having issues with extremely high oil consumption. I got the PCV, oil trap, drive belt changed. I was hoping changing the PCV would have fixed the issue but it did not. This is what my mechanic had to say : "Do an engine flush and oil pan service. Looks like the old PCV box brought a lot of condensation into the oil pan. An oil pan decarbonizing and cleaning, and resealing would be the best bet. We can monitor the levels after adding new oil to it." I'm at 171k kilometres and use Castrol Edge 5W30 engine oil and change oil every 7000-7500 kms I'd greatly appreciate it if you could provide me with your suggestion on this. Thank you very much in advance!
@@TheVolvoGuy ive had two of the five cylinder engines on the s40 and the s60. They both ate oil especially after 60k miles. About a quart every 1500 miles. Ive done more research than I care to admit. These engines eat oil. Turbos eat oil. its what they do. The engine tolerances are likely loose to save on friction which causes oil consumption.I had the piston rings redone under warranty on my s40. still ate oil. I had PCV valve redone on my s60, still eats oil. There is no leak. Its a problem I will accept if nothing else goes wrong but inevitably I have to believe this can cause problems elsewhere.
I have a 12 s60 and everything works great I have replaced timing belt/ serp and pulleys spark plugs and ignition coils as well as fuel injectors however I still have a small start up issues the rpm goes high and although my engine runs smooth I can hear a small suction near the oil dipstick as well oil filler should I just replace the whole pcv box
Drive belt tensioner failed this summer on my 2013 V70 D4 (five cylinder motor). The first symtoms was that the battery failed to charge even though it was in good condition. I would get "system will get shut down in 2 minutes" on my dash just seconds after stopping the car, even after 2h drives. When the belt finally gave, I first got everything lit up on my dash like a Christmas tree. Despite a failing belt, the car managed up a hill and to the safe side of the road before I lost engine power. Fortunately, the teared auxiliary belt did not get caught up with the timing belt which is would have been catastrophic for the engine as seen in this video. Volvo for some reason don't provide a proper guard or separator between the auxiliary belt and the timing belt, which is why this can be a huge risk to your engine. This was on the news in Sweden a couple of years back. Volvo responded that they have changed the belt change intervalls but not something I have heard from them. Anyway, I had belt and tensioner replaced but if someone knows why they fail so often it would be nice to hear your theories. Great engine in general however and it can take a beating for sure!
The reason is the tensioner it self not the belt, I had a customer had the belt go and took out the timing belt and another shop replaced the cylinder head and the belt but they didn't replace the tensioner and with in a week the same thing happened again. I replace the tensioner between 60 and 75k miles
@@TheVolvoGuy Right, it's quite pointless to only change the belt on these but why does the tensioner get stuck in the first place? Great video by the way.
I also found a common problem with the T6 models where the strut mount bearing goes bad, I had 2 t6 models and both strut mounts had to be replaced at around 140.000 155.000 km. also common problems with these particular models
I have a 2013 S60 T5 AWD (this is the 5-cyl turbo engine). The oil level does drop on this vehicle far faster than I'd anticipate considering the number of miles we put on it weekly. There is no sign of smoke coming from the exhaust, but I have noticed that oil is leaking from the back side (turbo side) of the engine as well as around the base of the oil filter housing. Not enough to drip on the ground, but oil is leaking. There is also a faint burning oil smell in the cabin after running the car and coming to a stop, which I'm guessing means that oil is leaking onto exhaust components and burning/smoking. Any thoughts on the likely causes of the unexpected oil level drop? The first gear clutches in the Aisin trans have also given up and I need to replace the transmission so I thought I'd have whatever additional work that needs to be done taken care of while its in the shop. Fun!
I really admire your knowledge- i am not the mechanic but i had s40 and had to replace the breather case,on my xc90 i had awd issues and learned how it works and bought cracked vida dice fixed it myself,on my xc70 had oil consumption and found the problem it was seals on brake booster and also.had missfire on 6 valve it was that sensor for the oil on top forgot the name. I am wondering if my xc70 Volvo 2008 has siri radio as i don't have that bow at the back. I do believe i have power drainage. Pls let me know and thank you for your videos very helpful
Great video, very informative and overall enjoyable. I myself own a 2009 Volvo V70 2.5T, it's been running great except for one issue. Whenever I floor it, it seems to hesitate a few times before it accelerates hard, the problem hasn't always existed, as it ran incredibly smooth when I first got the car. Those issues are only existing when I floor it, not when let's say I am in neutral and rev it. Not sure what the issue could be. Any tips? Edit: The car does not show check engine light
I would check the things are under the most stress when you go wide open throttle, like fuel pressure spark plugs coils make sure you have good air flow restrictions in the intake air filter so on and so forth.
@@TheVolvoGuy Air flow isn't the issue. Thanks, I've been noticing the car runs a bit rough in idle, slight misfire perhaps? I may have the same issue as another guy in the comment field. I really appreciate your help
Have a 2009 s80, 3.2, so far so good. But I have a short/broken wires, in the drivers door wire harness that runs between the door and the body. Wires get worn from opening and closing, as well as age where the coating starts to come off. Can't seem to find the actual wire that's bad, and removing the clip on the door is impossible, which makes it that much more difficult to see. Suggestions?
Great video and very helpful. Looks like the PCV / oil separator is bad on my XC60. I've seen just the round diaphragm for sale and folks on forums talking about saving $$ and just breaking off the old diaphragm and replacing this rather than the entire part. Does this work? Thanks
@@TheVolvoGuy Morning.i wanted to follow up. I replaced the oil separator/ PCV assembly ($60 @ Partsgeek.com). The sqealing noise went away immediately (the diaphragm was torn). The long term fuel trim also dropped back to normal levels (35 down to 3+/-). Unfortunately, the P0420 codes continues. Any suggestions for finding the cause?
What is the best 2015 s60 model to get? t4 turbo, t5 or t6? I have a twin-turbo 02 s80 and at some point I'll need to replace it and I like the looks of the s60 and the digital displays in the '15 and newer.
I own a 2017 Volvo S60 T5 with the 2.0 I4 turbo, I've only seen the issue with the screen system locking up and restarting itself after a few minutes. I have seen this issue twice in 21k miles of driving in the 1 year I have owned it so far. I have hit 40k miles and will be watching for these issues (except for the AWD since of course, my model does not have AWD, same with the timing belt slaughter on I5s) Great video, thanks! With regards to the automatic transmission fluid, I hear mixed opinions on the frequency of servicing it, or if you should have the fluid cycled at all. I do almost all of these miles under 50MPH in the city. My low gears see a lot of stop and go action. I use the eco mode when possible, not for the mileage, but because I want the transmission to go easy on itself. I want a long life out of this transmission. What do you think about the fluid, and other ways to protect my transmission? I have not noticed any issues with shifting thus far, but of course, proactive maintenance is superior to reactive. Thanks!
I love watching g this video and keeping on top of these issues. My front strut bearing seems to scrape and probably failing and wanted to mention. Not sure it’s a common problem. Also rear spring broke fairly early miles
PCV and AWD pump got me 😩… as well as a myriad of other issues. (Driveshaft, water pump, vacuum booster, wheel bearing, I needed a new down pipe because flex pipe went bad, rear bushings, etc) oh I have a s80 T6 09
Hey Volvo guy! I’m seeing you’re still responding to some comments if you wouldn’t mind giving me some advice. I already ran into a bad pcv valve and replaced it with no problems about 6 months later, I happened to check my plastic engine cover and saw oil coming up through the bolts that hold it on, after I removed the plastic cover I saw dried oil around the coil packs also. I removed the packs and 4 of the 5 plugs where flooded with oil, I replaced the plugs and cleaned all the oil and less than a week later checked again and ran into the same problem, I’m assuming it’s the problem you mentioned around 11:00. Do you know how to safely seal the valve cover? I’m aware Volvo says it’s not supposed to be removed because it supports the cams but I’d like to fix it myself and not replace or have a dealership do so.
Great site I’ve been a long time Volvo owner. Currently a 2016 XC70 P3 with 70 K miles original owner. Just ordered a new belt tensioner / belt based on your recommendation. Oil consumption issues .Do you think it wold benefit owners to stay away from the 10k changes ? I have done changes about @ 6.5 K and thinking of every 5k . Thoughts ? No oil issues to date.
5k with full synthetic oil is what I always do no matter what. You don't have to change the filter every 5k you can do the filter every 10k but the oil 5k is what I do.
I've seen mass airflow sensor problem, oil shortage and belt tensioner problem already, with my car. I only bought it 2 weeks ago, V60 late 2015 with 2016 specs. My first Volvos were so enjoyable for me, this third one is putting me off already.
@@TheVolvoGuy IF I had seen your video before I bought it, it would have really helped me. My first was S40 from 2010, then R-design V50 from 2012. Both did more than, 200K before I sold then, not a single day of trouble. I travel a lot unfortunately, so I need a reliable and fuel efficient car, which the S40 and V50 have convinced me Volvos are.
I have a 2011 S60 D3. I have an intermittent radio problem. I can get in and start the engine and it's OK,then other times, the screen is on but no sound. I have to switch off, open the driver door,close it and re start and it sometimes works straight away, other time I have to repeat the process. Any ideas to what's causing this will be much appreciated???
What about the slow charge issue, have this on the v60 and have seen quite many people on the great google mentioning it. Ie: I drive 60 miles and the battery charges 4 to 5 percent.
Got a question, I bought a 2002 Volvo S80 about 3 days ago. It drives wonderful, not really having problems with anything. It's a 2.4, no turbo or anything, with 170HP. Is there anything I have to keep in mind, check on, etc.?
@@TheVolvoGuy 10 years. Oh. I had mine replaced around 2011 or so at 101,000 miles. I have 173K now and wasn't thinking I had to change it. I'll do so in a few months.
Hello Volvo Guy. Thank you for your posts. I have an 2009 XC70 3.2 and just had the auxillary belt, a/c compressor, water pump, tensioner and related parts replaced at 273,000 km. Idles smoothly, no new sounds, no stumble at any speed, nothing obviously different except the trip computer is jumping all over without my manual scrolling. THIS however is the shocking part... I've been keeping a fuel log from day one manually calculating litres purchased and odometer reading since the last fill. I've been consistently getting a low of 7 L/100 km highway and high of 13 L/100 km in town. Today after getting the car back from the dealer's shop (CAD4,600 later) I got 15 L/100 km for the first time in 15 years. Any suggestions where I should start looking?
Hey Volvo guy! You are the best person to answer this. I am looking to buy a 2013 s60 t6 with 140000km. Seems to be well maintained. Is it reliable to last me a long time as a daily driver? Thanks
Great summary: I have 2009 S80 T6 Awd. I have red flashing park brake light with electric parking brake service required and park assistant system required. But both functions are working fine. What could cause the warning messages? I checked all wires, nearby grounds. I did not see anything broken or loose. Thank you
When I bought my XC60 T6 I noticed the oil was a bit low and immediately did an oil change. Less than 1500 miles later, about 1.5qts from the full mark. I'm hoping this doesnt accelerate. I'm ok with it staying steady.
Thank you so much for this information. I just had the ring replacement on our 2015.5 V60CC (5 cyl). Have you had any updates on whether the material change sufficiently addressed the oil consumption issue? I will be on the lookout for the tensioner problem. How much should it be to proactively replace it?
If you check out his previous videos he had a seperate topic on the oil ring design, and basically the old ring design got clogged up easily, but the new ones seemed to be ok. Also do you have a diesel or gas engine?
Great information here. I actually found this video while looking for more information on the PCV pump issue that I'm having on my 2011 S60 T6. Wondering your opinion on this-is there anything in the PCV box that goes bad besides the diaphragm? I'm seeing aftermarket diaphragm/cap units are being sold instead of the whole assembly. Saves a ton of money, but do you feel that's an effective fix?
Thank you 👍🏻 excellent video information 💯ℹ️ My V60 dashboard has just displayed "soot filter full" I think this will cost a lot of...you know what 😢 Cheers 👍🏻
How is the new 4 cyl v60 t6? I wanted to know about the reliability with engine transmission I'm looking to buy a used under 60,000 miles/ 100,000kms. I was hoping you would do a video on them as your videos are very informative.
Same downshift problem. Just bought a '12 @ 64k. Once the transmission comes to temp, it goes away. I will be changing fluid and doing the module update. My '13 S60 did not do this. My '13 blew up at 124k- stuck open fuel injector that resulted in major compression loss in multiple cylinders.
This video is most useful thing I've watched on these cars. My girlfriend has a 2009 S80 with the NA 3.2 I6. I have a really confusing problem with the radio head unit. I can only bring up the options for music (aux,radio,etc) but they are all grayed out and I'm unable to use anything. It's hard to explain but it's like in a video game where a main menu selection is locked and the lettering is grayed out. Pressing any other button gives me a picture with a volvo car saying "high performance sound system" or something, I can't remember exactly. Would this be a module failure? Would I need to take this to a volvo dealership? Any reply helps, thank you so much!!
I've replied with the VIN a few times and for some reason it keeps deleting. I Commentied it again just now but if it doesn't stay on there, is there any other way i can contact you?
Good morning brother. I replaced my tensioner. Same deal you said it all! Hey I have an oil pressure sensor switch I need to put on there? I can't find the location online so I can't decide if I can do it my self or pay the $190 I was quoted to install it
Thank you for the very educative videos. 1. could you kindly do a video on(2011 XC-60 T6 ) serpentine belt change and tensioner.2. I changed the spark plugs (OEM) at 80,000 miles and found 3 of the plugs the threads were oil stained. no obvious signs of burning oil. the car runs fine. any suggestion -the piston rings are bad ? help appreciated.
Did the serpentine belt tensioner get updated for 2014? Is it less of a problem on those as long as done at a reasonable maintenance interval? Great video! Loved seeing they make a sticker for the airbag emblem!
Do you have a video of anything on a 2011 s60 T6 awd ac compressor? My ac isn’t blowing cold air, so I tried one of the recharge kits but it doesn’t sound like my compressor is turning on… anything helps!
Hello there and thanks you for the videos you do. Can you explain a little bit more about the T6 work to be done to eliminate oil consumption. Mine is with 203k mikes and just noticed about a quarter use every 3k miles. Also the pcv was changed when car had 175k.
So I have a 2014 Volvo S60 T5 Premier with 98,600 miles. I've already replaced the drive belt and tensioner, but I know I'm gonna need to replace the timing belt soon (how many miles could I SAFELY go past 100,000 miles before the timing belt breaks?). Anyways, I have noticed that my car burns a very tiny amount of fuel. I've only driven like 2,500 miles since my last oil change, but I have had to add a 1/2 quart of oil to my car. Is this a normal amount of oil to be "used" for a car my age and with my mileage? People on Google seem to suggest that it is normal, but what do you think? Also is there anything I should look out for since my car is almost at 100,000 miles now? Thank you!
I have a 2012 Volvo s60 T5 with about 71,000 miles on it. I bought it Jan 2022. About 6-8 months after I bought it, I noticed that it would sort of kick back at me when I would slow or accelerate. I'm not sure how to explain it very well, essentially, whenever I would slow down to an intersection and stop then accelerate once the light changed, there would be a kick back sensation like the car had a bit of a struggle. Its been a few months since that began and it has decreased and does it very randomly now. Sometimes when I'm accelerating up a hill then approach a stop sign and then accelerate again to drive through the intersection it does the same thing. I apologize for my lack of better explanation, I am certainly ignorant to cars. It's just strange how the car did this for about 1-2 weeks very often then significantly decreased and now does it at very random times. Has anyone else experienced this?
Hello, So this problem is common with we have seen it I have the same exact T5 S60 and the first step would be to check and see if there is a TCM S/W update available, if you send me your VIN I can find out for you. After the S/W, then we clear the transmission adaptations and fuild counters, and we do adaptation test drive. My S60 improved like 95%.
I have a 2014 S60 T5 that's giving error code P0441. I'm thinking it's either the EVAP purge valve going bad or the Leak Detection Pump. Is there a way to tell which one has gone bad, and if so how would I go about replacing the part?
Hello, I have a 2013 s60 with T5. Started using oil at 160,000 miles. Should I do piston replacement? Or PCV and reseal cam cover? Any luck running seafoam in engine to clean up oil control rings? Great video!!!
did you ever get this resolved? my 2013 started eating oil like crazy at about 115k miles. 5 quarts about every 1000 miles. I think im gonna have to sell it, I want a P2 but theyre all like 10k right now, which is the same price I paid for my P3.
@@laurenfox8971 I used Berrymans B12 on the top of the pistons to soak them overnight and then in the oil at idle for 15 min Then changed the oil. I have not used oil for 2,000 miles it worked perfectly!
Pistion rings problem you have to rebuild the engine or replace it which they cost a lot of money 3500 or more if you can find one. P2 5 cylinder engine are the best they made.
@@TheVolvoGuy thank you! PCV was literally replaced a few days ago after it failed and CEL came on 2 weeks ago. One of the worst sounds I've ever heard.
Hi Volvo guy. I have a 2011 XC70 SI6 2WD, new to me last Fall. I want to do some basic maintenance. If I only do the belt tensioner, decoupler pulley, idler pulley, and belt (not the water pump) do I have to drain the coolant? Any feedback is appreciated!
@@TheVolvoGuy Thank you. Volvo Vida says drain the coolant before removing "accessory drive component bracket" (operation 21585-3) Do I even need to remove that bracket to access the idler and decoupler pulley? Thanks again!
2016 s60 5cylinder turbo owner here. I think you just solved my problem for me I’m tearing it all apart now😂
What is going on with it?
Problem #1 1:53 Problem #2 3:10 Problem #3 3:49 Problem #4 5:56 Problem #5 7:25 Problem #6 8:16 Problem #7 8:36***** Problem #8 10:38 ***(TURBO)
Thanks
Thanks.
I have a 2010 V70 R Design and I love your videos. They are very detailed which gives me great confidence in working on my car. I know it's very time consuming to do these videos but it would be amazing if you did more videos like drive belt replacement , starter replacement , axle replacement and just anything like that. You are doing a great job of saving people money. It's $900 to replace drive belt and water pump is one example. Again I know it's hard to do these videos so any help is bigger than you probably know. Thank you for what you do.
I've been trying to figure out why my 2015 s60 has been absolutely swallowing oil with no leaks under the car or noticeable in the engine bay thank god I found this video
Thank you.
100% spot on and here's what I can tell you from my personal experience - 52000 miles 2012 S60 T6 AWD w Polestar upgrade - let me first say I love this S60 Volvo in the T6 configuration and with the Polestar upgrade it's fast as h-ll and handles outstandingly well with DWS06+ high contact Continental tires - I also owned a new 2011 C30 2.5l T5 FWD (traded-in July, 2013), a new 2011 C70 2.5l T5 FWD with Polestar upgrade (sold July, 2022 to Carvana for more than half what I paid for it in 2012) and a new 2012 fully loaded S60 T6 R-Design AWD - this was a CHERRY and I wish I kept it but way too expensive to buy-out at the time (lease return Sept. 2015) -- generally speaking I liked all the cars I've owned from Volvo, but each one of them had its own set of issues. None crushingly expensive, but definitely required out-of-pocket spend and ALWAYS a hassle with the service department at the dealership - every time it's a full on battle so you have to have some internal fortitude and FACTS. That always gets them. On all of them #1 top problem - RDR "Low-battery" - on previous models it came and went and wasn't a big issue since they were daily drivers - with current S60 car at 40000 miles after sitting a bit during the pandemic - which led to replacing a perfectly good battery and an additional low-battery sensor, because my service dealer in NJ misdiagnosed the parasitic draw as a battery problem and a damaged sensor $600 US - subsequently after researching and learning about ongoing RDR problems and still experiencing low-battery with the new battery, I contacted VOLVO USA and after a month of complaining they authorized an electric system troubleshooting diagnostic and replacement RDR at no charge, but by that time the second battery was already damaged at 50000 miles so I just replaced it myself for half the dealer cost since they would not honor any warranty on the battery and they wanted to prorate the cost -- #2 AOC pump at 51000 miles - service dealer would not clean or rebuild the old one and the new replacement was $1300 US (total ripoff) -- #3 all emblems fell off, but no charge since there was an active recall on them -- #4 seat belts getting stuck randomly, but also no charge since there was an active recall on them -- #5 exterior window trim fading and spotting, no recall and service dealer wanted $1100 US to replace so I bought black trim sealer from Amazon for $25 US and fixed it myself -- #6 A/C compressor at 32000 miles but was still under one or more warranties so no charge - #7 yellowed and hazed headlights 51700 miles - I refurbished them but still looked cosmetically wrong even though they were about 90% cleaned up - since the rest of the car is immaculate I bought a pair of new ones for $1375 US and installed them myself - really easy #8 warped rotors - the original Volvo installed rotors are absolute garbage thankfully all were under warranty except for my current car which I upgraded to a set (4) of high quality German made rotors.
Sorry you had to deal with all that unfortunately dealerships don't have good techs and they nor willing to pay to have good techs but unfortunately I have seen S60's with all the problems in one vehicle and that is overwhelming.
@@TheVolvoGuy The main issue is the lack of proper training, lack of timely technical/service bulletins, or reviewing these bulletins by mechanics, and troubleshooting skills - the RDR was there for a while but the mechanics didn't know about it or they were just sloppy - there's always the possibility that the service manager also just ripped me off and he was unpleasantly surprised when he got a call from Volvo US with my complaint - in the end he had to do the proper job anyway so it evened out - there are so many times when I go into the shop for even basic maintenance and I now doublecheck everything they do (if I can) before I pay them (like oil level after oil change and making sure everything is tight and clean in the engine bay)
My T6 had a Lean code. I replaced both Oxygen sensors, No help. It started squealing so I found That the EVP was leaking. I found the diaphragm with the cap online. Cap was included because they break. It took about two minutes to crack the cap off, lay the diaphragm in place and push the new cap on. Fixed for about $25.
My 2012 v60 D3 had none of this problems, best car i have ever owned. Now it has almost 300.000km on it
I have the v60 2012 the car has been parked for afew months and there is a water leak both driver and passenger side if u can help what is causing it or where the water is coming from the car does not have sunroof thanks
@@HM-yp8pv seal at the top of windshield. Windscreen needs to be resealed.
It's a common problem on these models.
Resealed mine last year.
Hi I have checked windscreen that seems fine water comes in from elsewhere.Noticed some water in boot.Also if you know the locations of all holes which can cause this I would check every single one to sort this out thanks
300k Holy shit
Amazing.
I am trying to add a comment for the PCV Diaphragm issue specified at @5:52 everywhere I can because it baffled the crap out of me, and plenty have searched for it, without getting good info. If you replace the PCV diaphragm, or the entire oil catch can, and your "new" pcv "Honks" or "Kazoos" it's air slipping past the diaphragm because it's either 1. Not pressed on right from the factory (or you yourself didn't press it on all the way) or 2. The factory installed diaphragm is "too" flexible (seen on several from Volvo recently). It actually takes a LOT more expected force to completely press the diaphragms onto the oil catch than is apparent, and many are coming FROM suppliers not pressed on all the way. So it will just honk, or make a kazoo noise, as the engine sucks in air past the incorrectly installed diaphragm. Again, that might not seem like a big thing, but they're coming from supplies, including VOLVO, not pressed on correctly
Absolutely, I have seen that many times, that is why it's always necessary to inspect your parts before installing them.
Really enjoyed the information as I own 5 volvos at this time. Look forward to all your upcoming vids. Thanks
You are welcome
I've just bought a '15 v60 t6 premier + and added the polestar optimization to her. She's low miles, 44k km's (27k miles). This was a good video to know what to watch out for. My previous car was an 04 v70 2.5t with over 250k miles.
I own a 2007 xc70 2.5t I have 320k miles on it now. Love it.
This content is most informative. I am looking at P3 Volvos to replace my SAAB wagon; and I have narrowed my search to a V60 Cross Country with the 2.5L, a XC60 T6 AWD, or XC70 T6. The oil consumption issues have been a real worry for me but you have done an excellent job at explaining the root cause and the required fix. You have a new subscriber.
Thank you
@@6speedcreed204 My 9⁵ Aero wagon has been faithful but I need something that rides smoother and quieter on the roads of Washington state.
xc70 t6 will make you happy:)
@@6speedcreed204 what did you end up choosing?
What did you end up choosing?
Watching this again after two yrs. Doing my pcv and AOC next week. Other than money not hard jobs. . I wish I could get my battery drain sorted but other than that happy with the p3 and glad you have one too that I am lucky enough to watch you work on. Thanks.
Did you check your XM radio? For the battery drain?
@@TheVolvoGuy I did my best too do a full parasitic drain test and came up with lots of fuses causing trouble; I may have done it wrong,
not sure what you mean by check the radio. I could not even find it.... think its under the seat or something. Any guidance would be appreciated.
Right now I have all the fuses pulled from the car to stop doing the battery....
@@pgreenx send me your VIN please
@@TheVolvoGuy
YV4940BZ7D11473D8. I am not a pro mechanic by any means and bought all sorts of electronic tools like amp clamp and multi meters to figure this out. So frustrating and such a great car. And it only has 76k on it. Thanks for checking on it.
You are absolutely right on all of these issues.I am Volvo mechanic and I’ve seen it all
I have a 2017 Volvo s60 T6.
I am hearing a low rumble type noise. Only happens when driving, continues after rolling down hill in neutral. Seems to be related to suspension.
@@TheHandleOnUA-cam @wheel bearing??What’s the mileage
@@igo470 39k
@@igo470 it was from Conneticut and I assume the coastal area because front rotors were replace and the back have a lot of rust.
It’s unusual that 39k miles car have any suspension or wheel bearing issues.
Cool video. The oil consumption sucks 😄 Volvo said to get a new engine but just refilling the oil sounds better to me. Another thing to add is the HVAC blower fan howl, annoying thing that is lol
I've had 4, currently have two xc70's 2014,2015, and they ALL get the Howl!!
Any solution? Thx.
@@sbellosa from what I’ve seen on UA-cam, you can replace the blower motor because it becomes loose. But in that same video there was a screw that they had missing. I’ve never tried to fix it but I wonder if maybe that screw falls out over time and makes it howl 😆
@@Mauzy0x00 right. if you replace the blower motor you're going to get all the screws back in. I'll get into it and let you know. Thx.
@@sbellosa please do!
Sorry, I didn't see this in time.
The PCV was used on several other European car brands and had a design issue that caused engine oil consumption and piston ring damage. The PCV box was replaced with an improved design. The XC60 had windshield leak issues in the first years, leaking on electronics under the dash. The biggest XC60 problem was the automatic transmission, it would start having a delayed and harsh engagement when shifted from P to D, internal seal fault, not repairable. The Behr cabin blower also has a short lifespan on all P3 cars, and unfortunately Volvo placed the blower in the middle of the dash, difficult to access and also requires a specific tool for removal.
I had to replace my cabin blower last year and they had to take off both my doors and the entire dash, such a pain in the ass for a simple fix
@@jackberry4203 How much did you pay? I bought an AM part and new spark plugs and my mechanic switched out the blower motor & plugs for $600.
Sorry, I didn't see this in time.
Good info... I've got 2015 xc70 t6 that has that whistling. I attributed it to a pulley or tensioner. I'm Gina check that PCV valve tonight. I think i have that battery drain too. Austin. Great info. Thank you.
Excellent breakdown of some of the issues that affect the various models. Really appreciate your efforts ;) Have now subscribed and will take a look through your other videos.
Leak detection pump is 3 torques screws, 2 hose clamps, 1 electric clip and a game of tetris. Saved $1000 over dealership...
Amazing
I have a 2013 S60 T5 AWD. Only 40,000 miles after 10 years (but is driven regularly up to operating temps). I change my oil annually or 2500 miles which ever comes first hoping to avoid ring clogging and subsequent high oil consumption (presently burns zero oil). Did a 3-stage drain/fill on the tranny at 38,000 +. Just had timing/serpentine belt & tensioner replaced due to age, not miles. Going to ride her out as long as possible. Only issue has been a intermittent, but persistent steering wheel shake that begins about 55MPH and seems to go through a cyclic phase of coming/going. Inspection found nothing and wheels are fine and balanced.
Hi, this might be an early sign of driveshaft or wheel bearing failure. It's not too bad and you can keep driving until it gets worse or more pronounced. Wheel bearing while make a whining noise, driveshaft will make a clicking noise. Could also be warped brake disks or a slight imbalance in the wheel (yes, I know you said u got it balanced but the only balance one axis). Might wanna get that checked by a professional - as that's cheaper than the other two options.
Thank you VolvoGuy really appreciate your videos! Helping a lot with diy jobs:)
Welcome.
Haven’t posted in a while. One of my favorite channels.
Thank you am in a middle of moving and other things hopefully soon
@@TheVolvoGuy glad to know you’re still here. Looking to open my own Volvo repair facility and your videos make life easier
@@carlitoneici4552 anything you need i got you.
@@TheVolvoGuy thank you 🙏🏼 a ton. I’m on a mission to save as many p1’s p2’s p3s as possible
I have a 2012 S60 T5 and my piston rings failed at 98K which caused a misfire which cracked the cylinder head. Found a low mileage used engine and had it installed.
Those engines are expensive
For Certified cars purchased on or after November 1, 2018, the Certified by Volvo provides a 5-year/unlimited-mile exclusionary coverage from the original in service date of the car. Vehicles that were originally sold as Certified Pre-Owned prior to November 1, 2018, the Certified Pre-Owned warranty provides 7-year/100,000-mile coverage.
Thank you.
Just subscribed. Great information.
I'm watching your videos to get myself educated on Volvo.
I'm currently looking at a 2010 XC60 T6 AWD with 140k miles. Took it for a test drive today and drove very well. Engine sounded very good, no weird noise. Only problem is the AC is not working.
I have 2 questions, what is your opinions on high mileage cars especially this XC60? Is the AC in these cars problematic and what could be the issue? Thanks
Keep up the good work!
If i would to take a guess 🤔 on the A/C I would say its the compressor the clutches fails on them. But as far as the engine on that they do hold up very good if you keep up with the maintenance. Make sure the drive belt and pulleys have been changed.. thank you.
Thanks for your response. What is your take on "lifetime" fluid in the automatic transmission? Thanks
Thank you A LOT. My 2012 T6 S60 has the belt noise problem related to the breath box. Made the test with the dipstick and it worked. I'm going to replace the diaphragm and hopefully it will work!!!! 🤞🏽
Hope ot worked out.
@@TheVolvoGuy It did!!! Thanks a lot!!!!
@@DanMaverick22 you are welcome. Thank you.
I’ve had both of the inline fuses on the positive battery cable fail, seems fairly common as well from what I can gather from the forums
Great video, I've been looking into the AWD V60s available on the used market this has been extremely helpful. Pretty disappointing that the 5 cylinders look to be the least reliable engines in these cars
Yeah unfortunately due to multiple problems they are but as long as you take care of them with oil changes and other thing they run good.
P2 and P3, the driver's door wire harness is vulnerable to wire-jacket stripping, copper metal-fatigue breakage, short-circuits between wires, etc. The factory zip-tie is too severe & inflexible as a restraint, and is the root cause of wire chafing. It should be replaced with a softer cable-bundle restraint (velcro strap or electrical tape). Prevention is your best option, as repairing these wires poses a major headache.
First off, thank you for taking your time to make these informative videos. I have a 2016 T5 2.0. I had the original plugs changed out at 65k. The car now has 88k and started to experience some engine hesitation which led to the “reduced engine power” mode. The cel came on and then I read the codes which where p0300 along with 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304. I cleared the codes then the P0304 kept showing. I swapped coils around to see if it was a bad coil on #4. That didn’t resolve the issue. Decided to pull the plugs, and on #4 the plugs electrode was mostly gone along with a piece of ceramic. Replaced all 4 plugs with ngk iridium. No cel, but under hard acceleration I experience a few misfires before she takes off and runs smooth. I’m thinking that the broken plug might have done more damage. I’ve heard of these problems from other owners, but curious why the plugs had this happen. Is it something deeper than just plugs. Thinking it might be a bigger problem. What would your thought be. Kinda nervous about keeping the car now, even though we love it. Also, from what I’ve read, it seems like the problems have been fixed with the 17 model year, is that correct?
I have always stuck with dealer parts as far as replacing the plugs. But we also did have problems with fuel injectors we would replace the injector on the cylinder that still shows a misfire after replacing the plugs and switching the coils over if the misfire does not move with the coil.
And the the problem was fixed in 2017 as far as the oil consumption.
Hello, love your channel, I have a 2010 XC60 T6 I think B6304T2 with passenger side, front cam leak, below engine mount. What kind of repair am getting into? thanks!
The emblem was a recall item? My dealer charged me for it! Not a lot of money but still…
Great videos. I am a fan. You have helped me out considerably. Thank you
I have an XC 60 2012. I noticed a leak coming from one of the metal power steering lines under car. How hard is it to replace the lines? What is involved.
You would need a lift to do it and drop the rear of the front sub frame
Great videos, thankyou for taking the time to do these videos and explain things.
You are welcome
YEP...we were a victim of #6 on our 2013 S60 T6. Due to tight spaces, and an exceptionally uncooperative hose connection, it was a nightmare to replace. But I only spent $255 (including buying a new floor jack) to do it myself versus $1,200 to have the local dealership do the work!
Great summery video: I have 09 S80 T6. The AM radio has lot of static noise. What could be issue? FM works perfectly fine. 209k miles on it, no oil consumption. Drive strong. Thank you.
That is a common problem we have seen we had to replace the radio for that problem.
Was thinking of purchasing a 2013 S60 T5 with 125k, what do you think. Currently have a 99 S70 2.4 non turbo with 320k, the best running car I’ve ever owned as far as mileage. The interior not so much, cheap plastic is falling apart, leather holding up surprisingly well, clear coat has failed and peeling, no rust, a Midwest car. Also an 04 V70R with a miss in cylinder 3 that I haven’t been able to figure out yet. Runs incredibly rich from no combustion in that cylinder from low compression. Need to do a leak down test next and see if that turns anything up. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks. Loved the video!
Thanks for the video, very helpful, had to fix a few of those on my XC60 T6 2010, I got the low oil warning every now and then, but its always when its on its max level (bad reading) or above (its the wife car, very short trips only, car barely gets warm, so I suspect I get fuel in my oil that doesn't evaporates, so it raises the level.) when I draw a little oil out it tends to vanish. not sure if replacing the oil level sensor will help, as I suspect that warning is not only for low oil but oil quality or over max warning as well
Its more likely a bad level sensor this sensor will not trigger the light for high oil level. You got to drive that vehicle on high RPM for a little bit to clear some of the carbon build up as well not warming up the engine good before driving not a good thing for that motor specially of its a very short trips.
@@TheVolvoGuy Thanks a lot! I make my wife wait at least a minute+ till the engine is warm and the RPMs on idle went down to 650+-. also I make her wait 1 minute before shutting the engine
My left ear loved this!!
Good to hear.
Watching you talk about the b5254t belt reminds me of my co worker when he changed the ac clutch on a p1 chassis and not the belt. Belt got torn apart into the timing. Guess things happen!
It happens a lot on the b5244t engines one time a shop replaced the head and the belt got it fixed and never replaced the belt tensioner and 70 miles after the repair it happened again.
Any chance on doing a video on how to do an engine swap?
Maybe if I do one.
@@TheVolvoGuy At least the Piston rings and the correct piston rings to buy, I am not ready to give up the Swedish mafia just yet!
Update Oct. 2023: The engine suddenly started burning a quart every 200 miles and losing power. The engine has 76k miles and the mechanic says it needs a full rebuild. I traded it in for a BMW.
My 2013 S60 has all of these issues. The only real way to fix oil consumption is an engine teardown and rebuild (new rings and possibly pistons). I found that using an engine flush product and switching to Liqui Moly 5W-40 worked to reduce oil consumption to around 1 liter/2500 mi. Before using the engine flush product it burned quite a bit more oil.
This will definitely be my last Volvo. Needing an engine teardown and rebuild after 70k miles is unacceptable. I will just keep pouring more oil into it, and if it eventually breaks down, I'll just junk the car. Volvos are priced like German luxury/performance cars but have the build quality of a cheap econobox.
Which engine do you have in your 2013 s60?
@@Thisisoscar_ The 5 cylinder 2.5 liter turbo
Same engine and running into the same oil consumption issue. What engine flush products did you use?
@@gofastclad974 I used Liqui-Moly engine flush. It worked well enough to get an extra year out of the car, but any Volvo with this engine is on borrowed time.
@@DragonBuilds why are there volos with 150k plus miles with the same 2.5t engine?
I have a volvo s60 '12 1600 diesel D2 and with the first start of the day the engine goes out and starts again but when I press the gas a little it is fine. What could be wrong?
Thank you for all the helpful information. Can you please do a review on the new 4cylinders specifically the T5 eco in the 2015 S60 and V60? I’m very close to buying one but heard some mixed reviews. Keep up the awesome content.
Thank you. I will start working on this week.
i have a 2015 s60 premier eco and I love it its super fun to drive but there will be costly repairs im at 85000 miles and ive had to replace nearly everything in the engine bay except for the motor itself and the turbo
Jack Berry what engine do you have on your s60. I have one with the 2.0
I have the 2.0
The strut bearing on s60 v60 always fail. I replaced them on both my s60 and v60cc
OMG I don't even know how I forgot about that lol you are 100% right. Strut bearing fail a lot and we replace them daily it completely slipped my mind that should be one of the most common problems.
Hi:
Can you please tell me the recall campaign # for the Volvo Decals(front grill/steering wheel).
Also, do you know about recalls of the chrome trim inside the steering wheel (peeling/sharp edges).
“Great Vids”
Thanks
TJ#31750 for the airbag I can not find the one for the front grill, but if you call your local dealership, they should be able to help. Plus, it's not that much money to begin with.
I appreciate this video. By the time I found it I had already learned about some of these issues, but not all. I was never one too interested in trying to work on a car, but after buying a used XC60 T6 and putting a lot of miles on it, I no longer had any other choice. I realize now that the first repair I paid for-replacing the alternator, might have been only a bolt problem. I can’t find much information on a replacement catalytic converter. My mechanic( I’ve done a lot to my car, but I’m not able to work on the exhaust system.) He replaced it with an AM cat and my car runs terribly unless I’m going at least 50. An OEM CAT IS 1400-1700 and he thinks I may have no choice if I want my engine to run right. ( I’ve had a few intermittent cat not running efficiently codes, but I drive at high speed for long periods. Are there any specific AM cats that are reasonably priced that will do the job right on my car?
As far as I know many aftermarket cats need a spacer on the stock lambda sensor to work properly
@@Skessu Thank you for responding. I just had an old recall issue taken care of at the Volvo dealership and they mentioned all of the Volvo owners who had to come in with AM cats that weren’t working well. Your response gives me hope that I might not have to get an OEM cat after already spending money on the parts and labor for an AM one.
@@badmuddafadda not sure what AM cat is exactly but you often see these spacers installed with aftermarket downpipes that of course have a cat that has fewer cells. Search ELEVATE REAR O2 SENSOR SPACER FOR DOWNPIPE for example
Edit: oh just AM, aftermarket
@Darkstar Star I personally do not know of any aftermarket that worked it either does not fit right or check engine light comes on, but I really do not hear about the ones that work.
@@Skessu I ended up putting on a spacer, I’ve been dealing with this for months. I’m beginning to think my mechanic changed out the cat because the Volvo cats can be worth up to $400 in scrap.
I own a 2013 S60 T5 and am having issues with extremely high oil consumption. I got the PCV, oil trap, drive belt changed. I was hoping changing the PCV would have fixed the issue but it did not.
This is what my mechanic had to say :
"Do an engine flush and oil pan service. Looks like the old PCV box brought a lot of condensation into the oil pan. An oil pan decarbonizing and cleaning, and resealing would be the best bet. We can monitor the levels after adding new oil to it."
I'm at 171k kilometres and use Castrol Edge 5W30 engine oil and change oil every 7000-7500 kms
I'd greatly appreciate it if you could provide me with your suggestion on this. Thank you very much in advance!
If you have a oil consumption problem more likely it is your piston rings very common problem on this engine.
@@TheVolvoGuy ive had two of the five cylinder engines on the s40 and the s60. They both ate oil especially after 60k miles. About a quart every 1500 miles. Ive done more research than I care to admit. These engines eat oil. Turbos eat oil. its what they do. The engine tolerances are likely loose to save on friction which causes oil consumption.I had the piston rings redone under warranty on my s40. still ate oil. I had PCV valve redone on my s60, still eats oil. There is no leak. Its a problem I will accept if nothing else goes wrong but inevitably I have to believe this can cause problems elsewhere.
@@TheVolvoGuy Thank you for your valuable input. Do you think after changing the piston rings the car would last me a long time?
@@scenicgopi it should we really don't see much problems with the engine except for the oil consumption.
@@JayJohansson my mechanic also suggested a new turbo. Wondering if that is necessary.
I have a 12 s60 and everything works great I have replaced timing belt/ serp and pulleys spark plugs and ignition coils as well as fuel injectors however I still have a small start up issues the rpm goes high and although my engine runs smooth I can hear a small suction near the oil dipstick as well oil filler should I just replace the whole pcv box
Yes I would
Drive belt tensioner failed this summer on my 2013 V70 D4 (five cylinder motor).
The first symtoms was that the battery failed to charge even though it was in good condition.
I would get "system will get shut down in 2 minutes" on my dash just seconds after stopping the car, even after 2h drives.
When the belt finally gave, I first got everything lit up on my dash like a Christmas tree.
Despite a failing belt, the car managed up a hill and to the safe side of the road before I lost engine power.
Fortunately, the teared auxiliary belt did not get caught up with the timing belt which is would have been catastrophic for the engine as seen in this video.
Volvo for some reason don't provide a proper guard or separator between the auxiliary belt and the timing belt, which is why this can be a huge risk to your engine. This was on the news in Sweden a couple of years back. Volvo responded that they have changed the belt change intervalls but not something I have heard from them.
Anyway, I had belt and tensioner replaced but if someone knows why they fail so often it would be nice to hear your theories.
Great engine in general however and it can take a beating for sure!
The reason is the tensioner it self not the belt, I had a customer had the belt go and took out the timing belt and another shop replaced the cylinder head and the belt but they didn't replace the tensioner and with in a week the same thing happened again. I replace the tensioner between 60 and 75k miles
@@TheVolvoGuy Right, it's quite pointless to only change the belt on these but why does the tensioner get stuck in the first place? Great video by the way.
@@ChaotiX64 it's the self tensioning spring that fails.
I got one, the little volvo logo on steering wheel actually, peels off and it looks like ass
Agreed
@@TheVolvoGuy , me too!
I also found a common problem with the T6 models where the strut mount bearing goes bad, I had 2 t6 models and both strut mounts had to be replaced at around 140.000 155.000 km. also common problems with these particular models
Yes you are correct that one completely escaped me.
Loads of great info. Can you provide any insight on the 2.0 liter 4cyl diesel (SPA)and maybe the 2.4 liter 5cyl diesel?(P3)
I have a C70 and my son has a S60 diesels, both are 2-litres 5-cyl engines, don't know about the 4-cyl diesels !
Those are different engines. He talks about petrol mostly.
Own a 2009 V70 with the S6. Luckily haven’t had any of these issues.
Amazing
I have a 2013 S60 T5 AWD (this is the 5-cyl turbo engine). The oil level does drop on this vehicle far faster than I'd anticipate considering the number of miles we put on it weekly. There is no sign of smoke coming from the exhaust, but I have noticed that oil is leaking from the back side (turbo side) of the engine as well as around the base of the oil filter housing. Not enough to drip on the ground, but oil is leaking. There is also a faint burning oil smell in the cabin after running the car and coming to a stop, which I'm guessing means that oil is leaking onto exhaust components and burning/smoking. Any thoughts on the likely causes of the unexpected oil level drop? The first gear clutches in the Aisin trans have also given up and I need to replace the transmission so I thought I'd have whatever additional work that needs to be done taken care of while its in the shop. Fun!
I really admire your knowledge- i am not the mechanic but i had s40 and had to replace the breather case,on my xc90 i had awd issues and learned how it works and bought cracked vida dice fixed it myself,on my xc70 had oil consumption and found the problem it was seals on brake booster and also.had missfire on 6 valve it was that sensor for the oil on top forgot the name. I am wondering if my xc70 Volvo 2008 has siri radio as i don't have that bow at the back. I do believe i have power drainage. Pls let me know and thank you for your videos very helpful
If you give me your VIN I can find out if your xc70 came with it.
Great video, very informative and overall enjoyable. I myself own a 2009 Volvo V70 2.5T, it's been running great except for one issue. Whenever I floor it, it seems to hesitate a few times before it accelerates hard, the problem hasn't always existed, as it ran incredibly smooth when I first got the car. Those issues are only existing when I floor it, not when let's say I am in neutral and rev it. Not sure what the issue could be. Any tips?
Edit: The car does not show check engine light
I would check the things are under the most stress when you go wide open throttle, like fuel pressure spark plugs coils make sure you have good air flow restrictions in the intake air filter so on and so forth.
@@TheVolvoGuy Air flow isn't the issue. Thanks, I've been noticing the car runs a bit rough in idle, slight misfire perhaps? I may have the same issue as another guy in the comment field. I really appreciate your help
Have a 2009 s80, 3.2, so far so good. But I have a short/broken wires, in the drivers door wire harness that runs between the door and the body. Wires get worn from opening and closing, as well as age where the coating starts to come off. Can't seem to find the actual wire that's bad, and removing the clip on the door is impossible, which makes it that much more difficult to see. Suggestions?
Remove the door off the vehicle its not hard
Really looking forward to your SPA chassis video!!!
Hello, your channel is damn good. I bought a 2.5ft v70 2011 to replace my 3.2 s80 2007 (in Paris in 2024, you won't be able to drive
Normally here we don't change the tensioner, unless we see a problem, but I change mine every 60k miles no matter what.
Great video and very helpful. Looks like the PCV / oil separator is bad on my XC60. I've seen just the round diaphragm for sale and folks on forums talking about saving $$ and just breaking off the old diaphragm and replacing this rather than the entire part. Does this work? Thanks
I have never tried to do that so I can not tell you if it works or not. I did not even know they have that part available.
@@TheVolvoGuy Thanks for getting back. I purchased a new oil separator box which includes the PCV diaphragm. I'll see if this remedies the situation.
@@TheVolvoGuy Morning.i wanted to follow up. I replaced the oil separator/ PCV assembly ($60 @ Partsgeek.com). The sqealing noise went away immediately (the diaphragm was torn). The long term fuel trim also dropped back to normal levels (35 down to 3+/-). Unfortunately, the P0420 codes continues. Any suggestions for finding the cause?
@@georgesarapa3651 this is a CAT code most likely you have a bad C.A.T
@@TheVolvoGuy the cat is more likely to foul from the faulty PCV, yes?
What is the best 2015 s60 model to get? t4 turbo, t5 or t6? I have a twin-turbo 02 s80 and at some point I'll need to replace it and I like the looks of the s60 and the digital displays in the '15 and newer.
T6 3.0T or get 2017 model year. Or 14 with T6 3.0T
I own a 2017 Volvo S60 T5 with the 2.0 I4 turbo, I've only seen the issue with the screen system locking up and restarting itself after a few minutes. I have seen this issue twice in 21k miles of driving in the 1 year I have owned it so far. I have hit 40k miles and will be watching for these issues (except for the AWD since of course, my model does not have AWD, same with the timing belt slaughter on I5s) Great video, thanks!
With regards to the automatic transmission fluid, I hear mixed opinions on the frequency of servicing it, or if you should have the fluid cycled at all. I do almost all of these miles under 50MPH in the city. My low gears see a lot of stop and go action. I use the eco mode when possible, not for the mileage, but because I want the transmission to go easy on itself. I want a long life out of this transmission. What do you think about the fluid, and other ways to protect my transmission? I have not noticed any issues with shifting thus far, but of course, proactive maintenance is superior to reactive. Thanks!
Transmission fluid volvo has no intervals unless you tow, but every 70k, you can drain the transmission and refill
@@TheVolvoGuy Thanks, 76k still going perfect 😃👍
I love watching g this video and keeping on top of these issues.
My front strut bearing seems to scrape and probably failing and wanted to mention. Not sure it’s a common problem.
Also rear spring broke fairly early miles
PCV and AWD pump got me 😩… as well as a myriad of other issues. (Driveshaft, water pump, vacuum booster, wheel bearing, I needed a new down pipe because flex pipe went bad, rear bushings, etc) oh I have a s80 T6 09
Very common problems with age on that S80.
Hey Volvo guy! I’m seeing you’re still responding to some comments if you wouldn’t mind giving me some advice. I already ran into a bad pcv valve and replaced it with no problems about 6 months later, I happened to check my plastic engine cover and saw oil coming up through the bolts that hold it on, after I removed the plastic cover I saw dried oil around the coil packs also. I removed the packs and 4 of the 5 plugs where flooded with oil, I replaced the plugs and cleaned all the oil and less than a week later checked again and ran into the same problem, I’m assuming it’s the problem you mentioned around 11:00. Do you know how to safely seal the valve cover? I’m aware Volvo says it’s not supposed to be removed because it supports the cams but I’d like to fix it myself and not replace or have a dealership do so.
To do that, you need special tools to set the timing. The engine will have to be disassembled to reseal that Camcover, not any easy job.
Great site I’ve been a long time Volvo owner. Currently a 2016 XC70 P3 with 70 K miles original owner. Just ordered a new belt tensioner / belt based on your recommendation.
Oil consumption issues .Do you think it wold benefit owners to stay away from the 10k changes ? I have done changes about @ 6.5 K and thinking of every 5k . Thoughts ? No oil issues to date.
5k with full synthetic oil is what I always do no matter what. You don't have to change the filter every 5k you can do the filter every 10k but the oil 5k is what I do.
I've seen mass airflow sensor problem, oil shortage and belt tensioner problem already, with my car. I only bought it 2 weeks ago, V60 late 2015 with 2016 specs. My first Volvos were so enjoyable for me, this third one is putting me off already.
Stay way from 15 16 MY not so great.
@@TheVolvoGuy IF I had seen your video before I bought it, it would have really helped me. My first was S40 from 2010, then R-design V50 from 2012. Both did more than, 200K before I sold then, not a single day of trouble. I travel a lot unfortunately, so I need a reliable and fuel efficient car, which the S40 and V50 have convinced me Volvos are.
Great videos
And information, I was having some issues just seeing if you could help me out.
How can I help?
I have a 2011 S60 D3.
I have an intermittent radio problem.
I can get in and start the engine and it's OK,then other times, the screen is on but no sound.
I have to switch off, open the driver door,close it and re start and it sometimes works straight away, other time I have to repeat the process.
Any ideas to what's causing this will be much appreciated???
This was common we start by updating the S/W for the audio system, some times the RDAR when locks up cause the system to freeze.
What about the slow charge issue, have this on the v60 and have seen quite many people on the great google mentioning it. Ie: I drive 60 miles and the battery charges 4 to 5 percent.
Have not seen this problem before. First time hearing about it.
Great video! Anything I should look for on a 2012 XC60 R-Design with 130K. Looking at it in 2 days.
It's a T6 you should be okay
Got a question, I bought a 2002 Volvo S80 about 3 days ago. It drives wonderful, not really having problems with anything. It's a 2.4, no turbo or anything, with 170HP. Is there anything I have to keep in mind, check on, etc.?
Oil changes every 3-5k miles and replace the timing belt every 120k or 10 years.
@@TheVolvoGuy 10 years. Oh. I had mine replaced around 2011 or so at 101,000 miles. I have 173K now and wasn't thinking I had to change it. I'll do so in a few months.
Hello Volvo Guy. Thank you for your posts. I have an 2009 XC70 3.2 and just had the auxillary belt, a/c compressor, water pump, tensioner and related parts replaced at 273,000 km. Idles smoothly, no new sounds, no stumble at any speed, nothing obviously different except the trip computer is jumping all over without my manual scrolling. THIS however is the shocking part... I've been keeping a fuel log from day one manually calculating litres purchased and odometer reading since the last fill. I've been consistently getting a low of 7 L/100 km highway and high of 13 L/100 km in town. Today after getting the car back from the dealer's shop (CAD4,600 later) I got 15 L/100 km for the first time in 15 years. Any suggestions where I should start looking?
Hey Volvo guy! You are the best person to answer this.
I am looking to buy a 2013 s60 t6 with 140000km. Seems to be well maintained. Is it reliable to last me a long time as a daily driver?
Thanks
Change the oil every 3-5k and you will be just fine.
Great summary: I have 2009 S80 T6 Awd. I have red flashing park brake light with electric parking brake service required and park assistant system required. But both functions are working fine. What could cause the warning messages? I checked all wires, nearby grounds. I did not see anything broken or loose. Thank you
One of the parking brakes might not be working, so it's hard to know what is going on without scanning it.
@@TheVolvoGuy thank you. the vida says lost communication between BCM and EPB, CEm and EPB; pbm received Invalid data from cem
New 4 cyl engines have same issues.Oil consumption,failing accessory belt tensioner,pcv box and crankshaft seal leak oil
Yes they do.
When I bought my XC60 T6 I noticed the oil was a bit low and immediately did an oil change. Less than 1500 miles later, about 1.5qts from the full mark. I'm hoping this doesnt accelerate. I'm ok with it staying steady.
When you change your oil next time take it on the high way and drive it on high rpms around 3-3500 for good 5-10 minutes it will help clean the rings.
Thank you so much for this information. I just had the ring replacement on our 2015.5 V60CC (5 cyl). Have you had any updates on whether the material change sufficiently addressed the oil consumption issue? I will be on the lookout for the tensioner problem. How much should it be to proactively replace it?
If you check out his previous videos he had a seperate topic on the oil ring design, and basically the old ring design got clogged up easily, but the new ones seemed to be ok. Also do you have a diesel or gas engine?
Great information here. I actually found this video while looking for more information on the PCV pump issue that I'm having on my 2011 S60 T6. Wondering your opinion on this-is there anything in the PCV box that goes bad besides the diaphragm? I'm seeing aftermarket diaphragm/cap units are being sold instead of the whole assembly. Saves a ton of money, but do you feel that's an effective fix?
I have never tried this fix by just replacing the diaphragm. But if it is cheap enough to try and see how it goes I would give it a shot and see.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you 👍🏻 excellent video information 💯ℹ️
My V60 dashboard has just displayed "soot filter full" I think this will cost a lot of...you know what 😢
Cheers 👍🏻
How is the new 4 cyl v60 t6? I wanted to know about the reliability with engine transmission I'm looking to buy a used under 60,000 miles/ 100,000kms. I was hoping you would do a video on them as your videos are very informative.
Thank you I will do one on the 4cylinder engines.
Same downshift problem. Just bought a '12 @ 64k. Once the transmission comes to temp, it goes away. I will be changing fluid and doing the module update. My '13 S60 did not do this. My '13 blew up at 124k- stuck open fuel injector that resulted in major compression loss in multiple cylinders.
@@JiandiP yes my 12 s60 had the same transmission problem and the S/W update and adaptation reset took care of it.
This video is most useful thing I've watched on these cars. My girlfriend has a 2009 S80 with the NA 3.2 I6. I have a really confusing problem with the radio head unit. I can only bring up the options for music (aux,radio,etc) but they are all grayed out and I'm unable to use anything. It's hard to explain but it's like in a video game where a main menu selection is locked and the lettering is grayed out. Pressing any other button gives me a picture with a volvo car saying "high performance sound system" or something, I can't remember exactly. Would this be a module failure? Would I need to take this to a volvo dealership? Any reply helps, thank you so much!!
Can you give me the VIN for the vehicle? I need to see if that vehicle have RDAR.
I've replied with the VIN a few times and for some reason it keeps deleting. I Commentied it again just now but if it doesn't stay on there, is there any other way i can contact you?
Thank you so much. SO helpful.
What about when it runs rich?
That means you have problem with fuel delivery or air delivery.
Would you be able to let me know where the heater core lines are located to do a core heater flush for a 2010 XC60. Tyia
Get hold of me on patron, and I can email you all the info you need.
Do you have a video on how to diagnose and fix the purge system leak detection pump code?
I do not have one sorry.
Good morning brother. I replaced my tensioner. Same deal you said it all! Hey I have an oil pressure sensor switch I need to put on there? I can't find the location online so I can't decide if I can do it my self or pay the $190 I was quoted to install it
It's probably easier to have them replace it, unless you have the tools already then you might save some money.
I have a 2001 s60 2.4 NA and looking to upgrade to p3 platform. Any advice on which engine to get? Options are t5, t6 and d5
@Alex Kotr am not familiar with the D5 motors but if I have to choose between T5 or T6 I would get the T6
@@TheVolvoGuy For performance or reliability?
Thank you for the very educative videos. 1. could you kindly do a video on(2011 XC-60 T6 ) serpentine belt change and tensioner.2. I changed the spark plugs (OEM) at 80,000 miles and found 3 of the plugs the threads were oil stained. no obvious signs of burning oil. the car runs fine. any suggestion -the piston rings are bad ? help appreciated.
As long as you are not losing oil then you should be okay. When have oil consumption you will be losing oil.
@@TheVolvoGuy THANK YOU GREAT EDUCATIONAL VIDEOS. REAGARDS
Did the serpentine belt tensioner get updated for 2014? Is it less of a problem on those as long as done at a reasonable maintenance interval? Great video! Loved seeing they make a sticker for the airbag emblem!
If you have a 4 cylinder engine then yes but 5 cylinders no. But it seams to be less of a problem on the 14s
Do you have a video of anything on a 2011 s60 T6 awd ac compressor? My ac isn’t blowing cold air, so I tried one of the recharge kits but it doesn’t sound like my compressor is turning on… anything helps!
I hope it's all good now.
Hello there and thanks you for the videos you do. Can you explain a little bit more about the T6 work to be done to eliminate oil consumption. Mine is with 203k mikes and just noticed about a quarter use every 3k miles. Also the pcv was changed when car had 175k.
What year is your T6?
This is fantastic information seriously.. Thank you
Great video as usual, thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you for the info brother it’s very helpful
No problem you are welcome.
So I have a 2014 Volvo S60 T5 Premier with 98,600 miles. I've already replaced the drive belt and tensioner, but I know I'm gonna need to replace the timing belt soon (how many miles could I SAFELY go past 100,000 miles before the timing belt breaks?). Anyways, I have noticed that my car burns a very tiny amount of fuel. I've only driven like 2,500 miles since my last oil change, but I have had to add a 1/2 quart of oil to my car. Is this a normal amount of oil to be "used" for a car my age and with my mileage? People on Google seem to suggest that it is normal, but what do you think? Also is there anything I should look out for since my car is almost at 100,000 miles now? Thank you!
The timing belt is due at 10 years or 120k miles. Its not normal to burn that much but I have seen worst.
I have a 2012 Volvo s60 T5 with about 71,000 miles on it. I bought it Jan 2022. About 6-8 months after I bought it, I noticed that it would sort of kick back at me when I would slow or accelerate. I'm not sure how to explain it very well, essentially, whenever I would slow down to an intersection and stop then accelerate once the light changed, there would be a kick back sensation like the car had a bit of a struggle. Its been a few months since that began and it has decreased and does it very randomly now. Sometimes when I'm accelerating up a hill then approach a stop sign and then accelerate again to drive through the intersection it does the same thing. I apologize for my lack of better explanation, I am certainly ignorant to cars. It's just strange how the car did this for about 1-2 weeks very often then significantly decreased and now does it at very random times. Has anyone else experienced this?
Hello,
So this problem is common with we have seen it I have the same exact T5 S60 and the first step would be to check and see if there is a TCM S/W update available, if you send me your VIN I can find out for you. After the S/W, then we clear the transmission adaptations and fuild counters, and we do adaptation test drive.
My S60 improved like 95%.
@@TheVolvoGuy do you have to change the transmission fluid too?
I have a 2014 S60 T5 that's giving error code P0441. I'm thinking it's either the EVAP purge valve going bad or the Leak Detection Pump. Is there a way to tell which one has gone bad, and if so how would I go about replacing the part?
The purge valve if you blow air into it with it disconnected it should not leak any which is should be closed.
Hello, I have a 2013 s60 with T5. Started using oil at 160,000 miles. Should I do piston replacement? Or PCV and reseal cam cover?
Any luck running seafoam in engine to clean up oil control rings?
Great video!!!
did you ever get this resolved? my 2013 started eating oil like crazy at about 115k miles. 5 quarts about every 1000 miles. I think im gonna have to sell it, I want a P2 but theyre all like 10k right now, which is the same price I paid for my P3.
@@laurenfox8971 I used Berrymans B12 on the top of the pistons to soak them overnight and then in the oil at idle for 15 min Then changed the oil. I have not used oil for 2,000 miles it worked perfectly!
The T5 you will have to remove the pistons clean and replace the rings that is the only way. If the PCV box is bad then replace that as well.
Pistion rings problem you have to rebuild the engine or replace it which they cost a lot of money 3500 or more if you can find one. P2 5 cylinder engine are the best they made.
@@TheVolvoGuy thank you! PCV was literally replaced a few days ago after it failed and CEL came on 2 weeks ago. One of the worst sounds I've ever heard.
Hi Volvo guy. I have a 2011 XC70 SI6 2WD, new to me last Fall. I want to do some basic maintenance. If I only do the belt tensioner, decoupler pulley, idler pulley, and belt (not the water pump) do I have to drain the coolant? Any feedback is appreciated!
No. There is no need to drain coolant
@@TheVolvoGuy Thank you. Volvo Vida says drain the coolant before removing "accessory drive component bracket" (operation 21585-3) Do I even need to remove that bracket to access the idler and decoupler pulley? Thanks again!