Best video I've seen on the topic. Shortest video with most detail. Skips all the unnecessary chit chat and gets straight to the point. Thank you for added detail on removing the different types of electrical connections. Well done. Other video posts can take a lesson from this one.
Dude this video is fantastic. No unneeded talk, very helpful on sensor locations and what EXACTLY is needed to get the job done. Explanations of what to do and why are on point. Very Good video editing as well. I wish others did the same.
Well I like to personally say this was a very good presentation of removal alternator but I like to recommend that you install a grand new gates belt for the alternator and check all your other lines and sensors in that area because this is the best time to do this while you're in the area. I also like to recommend my personal idea if you remove something install brand new that way you won't have to worry about it breaking down when you put it back together. Also if possible for the alternator I will install brand bolts and know the torque value for all of your nuts and bolts that you going to install. Just from personal experience I had an alternator bolt come out after a new install. I like to investigate the area of repair not just focusing on the repair itself but the whole area so you can remove all sensors and replace them with new sensors. Also recommend replacing any gaskets that you remove especially if your car has over 150,000 miles
I would like to say my THANK YOU VERY MUCH for this video. I have a 2007 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD and Louetta Auto charged me 1300 dollars to replace my alternator. I went to Autozone and bought a new one for 250 bucks. I have no experience in car maintenance despite my Eng. degree, I never disassembly any part of any car ever. With your video and a good set of tools I could replace the alternator without any issue. Was difficult find the 2 bolts in the botton and unplug all sensors but finally I made it. Thanks you again, you helped me a lot. Cheers !!!!
Ronan Vilarinho I received error code w warning to service power system after completing replacement per your video. Any suggestions. 2008 Volvo xc 90 awd. Thanks Tony
Best. Video. Ever. One of those connectors has had me stuck for 45 minutes (#5 in your video). Showing how each connector releases was brilliant, and just made my day. Now I can finally get the manifold out!
@@jayunkaymail5454 Yeah, so I actually got stuck there. Whoever last worked on this part had oriented the hose clamp so it wasn't accessible from below or above. It basically required removing the radiator or having really long, stretchy, thin arms. We got hit with a snow storm before I could finish, so I had a local shop do it. But assuming you've got the clamp released, I think you should be able to get it loose with some work. Sometimes it just takes a bit of force to get a coupling lose after removing the clamp. All things considered, getting to this was a PITA, but if you've gotten this far I think you can do it. Wiggle, pull, struggle. Good luck!
Thanks for posting this video. I’m about half way through changing my wife’s alternator and your guide to sensor locations and methods for removal is greatly appreciated. I’m sure you saved me a few broken connectors.
Same procedure for my wife's 2007 V70 3.2. Got the charging system failure message and most of that era seem to be the loose bolt on the engine side coupler sprocket. Going to dig in this weekend. Thanks for the very clear and concise video. Not a stranger to Volvo as we're on our 4th and 5th consecutive and I DIY all of them. Still, the intake manifold was a mystery and there is very little to no information on Volvo from about 2007 on. Thanks again.
Wow, what an excellent video. You handled that with ease. Very impressive for someone who has never even worked on a Volvo SUV before. I have a 2008 xc90, and some things are easy on it, others hard. This video however makes it look easy. I will be use this video as a guide when I tackle this job come spring. Thank you! Just subscribed!
You saved me alot! Car died while going to work. had it towed home and the thought of towing to the repair shop was expensive, not to mention I had this issue 6 months ago. Well I found out my mechanic "fixed" this problem last time. And to make things worst they broke one of my connectors which took me 3 hours to disconnect because I had to remove the RTV they used and I had to unhook it with a small tool, of course it was the hardest one to reach. Any how, I don't recommend removing the oil cap while removing the cover, debris can fall inside and I covered the intake openings while I was working on the alternator.
One other thing, there is a small rectangular rubber "gasket" on connector 5 that fell out when I disconnected it, it is clear so easy to miss when it does. And I found that Connector 4 and Vent tube was easier to remove after I unbolted the intake and shifted it.
Great Video. Amazingly detailed content, yet it was short and to the point. The only thing I would add would be the torque specifications for all the bolts. You could use icons like you did with the sensors, so you don't have to lay another audio track.
@@Royce1982 I don't recall the torque specs, but (IIRC) they are bolt specific and year specific. I called my local Volvo dealer's service department and they were polite enough to supply the torque specs for each bolt. I was working on a couple of different vehicles' alternators at the time so I may be getting them confused.
Rather than chase the bottom mounting bolts & bushings for the intake manifold, I superglued the bushings to the manifold and inserted the bolts with rubber bands to hold them in while installing the manifold. Also if you get a voltage Low or High message, it would be a good idea to disconnect the battery cable that is under the hood at the B+ terminal that runs to the alternator to protect your battery.
Thank you for a very detail tutorial. Volvo alternator design is very interesting. $600 for a volvo alternator is a crazy price plus if you paid the dealer to do it will be even more.
Thank you Russ.. I don't even look at the thumbs up or down..... My memory is not the best so it's for my future reference and if it helps others along the way, then fantastic. Thank you for the compliment.
Lone Star Mini thanks for making the video. I’m in the middle of doing my alternator and my floor jack is dead and it’s midnight. Nobody is open to sell me a new one lol. I’m too fat to fit under the car and can’t get to the underside of the plastic skid plate! Should’ve probably just paid a shop to do it. ☹️
@@russjordan243 just had the exact same issue with changing the shocks on My suburban where my floor Jack died. I had to pull out the actual Jack that came it’s the car and use some lumber and cinder blocks .... managed to get it done.... I’ve now been watching videos how to fix my floor jack
Lone Star Mini lol I was too lazy to figure out the regular jack. After you get used to the floor jacks you just don’t wanna crank on something anymore.
Thanks; very helpful..our alternator and overrunning clutch was good; ultimately found the decoupling drive bolt was extremely loose on the engine side
I have a XC90 2011, I hope I run into similar stuff, the weird thing is my alternator is making a wining noise so I do not know if is the bearings on it or the whole thing is out
Thank you so much for this video. I was able to change out my alternator using this tutorial and it cleared my "Power System Service" warning and "over voltage" warning as well. So thorough, clear and helpful.
I wonder how similar this is to the XC70? Can the alternator be removed without taking off the manifold (like it one is doing the belt/idler replacement) ?
There are guide sleeves in the two bottom bolts. Did you replaced those and installed four new bolts? I just ordered a reman alternator (180 Amp) for my 2008 XC90. It's whining and more than likely the bearing or the pulley.
I am getting the charge system warning on the dash 2011 S80. Also the battery light. It's -14 and can work on the car. Had to bring it to a shop to get the alternator replaced. Did the AC Delco stand the test of time ????? Only one I can find around here is a Napa Power rebuilt unit for $500 tax inc. Good video .
Hey Now David, Yes, my AC delco is still running strong as I've had good luck with them (knock on wood). I'm sure the Napa items are good too, but make sure it's exactly the same. Thanks for the complimenet.
@@LoneStarMini The closest mechanic around me is a Ford dealership. The shop will be replacing the alternator with a reman unit. Since it's Ford getting the part for me and doing the job, it will come with a 2 year warranty. Normally I would never bring it to a Ford shop, but when your car is going to die from running on only the remaining battery power, your options are limited.
Thanks,changed mine with your help,with same number alternator but my "power system service urgent"and little battery are still lit, called a volvo repair shop was told after market alternators dont always communicate with car.is that true or does it take time to turn off ,alternator is charging at 13.5-14,and i installed a new battery,help again
Well. I've heard that said, but have never experienced it myself. Can't honestly say, but I also purchased the iCarSoft Vol V2.0 code reader which allows you to clear codes, etc.. I did not need to clear any code with the AC Delco alternator so I'm not sure. The 13.5-14 Volts is a good reading though. anything below 13, I would begin to question it. FYI.. I keep the old alternator and have a local shop rebuild/refurbish it. Therefore I'm ready when this happens again. It's much cheaper this route..
@randy My drive side gear bolt was loose. Any idea on how to hold the gear or rest of the system so that I can torque it down? When I try to tighten, it just drives the rest of the accessories.
Have u had any issues with the aftermarket alternator you purchased? I was reading a volvo forum and everyone was insisting you have to get a genuine volvo alternator or youd have issues. I'm wondering what your experience has been so far?
I found it on amazon but when I check vehicle fitment it says it wont work with the 2008 3.2 I have. That's weird I would think 2014 and 2008 would have same alternator since we both have same engines. It's the same exact vehicle as far as I know
Thanks a lot for this video! With this video I could fix this typical problem in Volvo T6 3,2 liter gasoline engine with alternator pulley bolt loosening in my Volvo XC70 (2008)! The only thing I needed (except hard work) was a bolt lock glue!
@@LoneStarMini it's not. I had to give a blood sacrifice to get it in there today. I've done the I5 ones. They're a dream compared to the v8. There's just no room to work.
I have a local AC Delco dealer where’s love however I bounce prices off Amazon and other online reps. Shouldn’t be difficult to find. Please note: if you still have the original alt, keep it and find a place in town to have it restored. I wish I had kept mine
How long do guys estimate this job will take armed with the great information and gotchas that Randy provided? I'm going to need to do one myself very soon. Thanks!
Robert Kim I think if took me 2-3 hours without any info. I think it can be done in 1.5 hrs if you’re the non mechanic like myself. Removing the electrical connectors was the hardest part for me. When ppl tell me X-hours, I double it
@@LoneStarMini Great. That's good to know. I guess there's not too many gotchas other than those tricky connectors. Looks pretty straighforward. Do you have to jack up the front of the car to get to the bottom bolts?
Cannot say honestly as this is our first Volvo SUV. While replacing the alternator was not hard, it definitely took more time than the typical alternator. wish I could offer more...
Lol you can get to about everything under the hood eventually with out pulling the engine but once you’re halfway in you’ll want to rip out all the hoses pull it out throw it on the ground poor gas on it set it on fire and let out a primal scream. But if you like searching the internet to solve your weekly Volvo problem and like the challenge of a good puzzle and constant price shopping to avoid Volvo money grabs you’ll love these cars I still *ucking do but I don’t know why. The old b230 brick and 5 cylinders are great and fun to fix but this ford Land Rover bs is a little ridiculous and the new Chinese crap I am sure I will never own good luck fixing you super turbo generator powered Chinese four cylinder! Just go buy a Lamborghini probably cheaper in the long run. On the plus side maybe now that they’re Chinese maybe all the bearings will stop failing pretty funny how alot of Volvo bearings seem to fail in the worst spots and two replace they usually want you to buy the full $$$$ unit I really hate the mf ers but they’re cars are so pretty even though they dent like Play dough. I guess I just love punishment. VOLVO for the masochist in all of you.
Randy Almand I received error code w warning to service power system after completing replacement per your video. Any suggestions. 2008 Volvo xc 90 awd. Thanks Tony
This sounds like something with your battery. Make sure cables going to battery have solid connections assuming you removed them when replacing the alternator. Otherwise, check your battery or have it checked. With that said, I'm not proficient with my Volvo so I too would have to do further research. I hope the best for you!
Lone Star Mini Thanks for your reply. I went out and checked the connections at the battery which I did detach & reset as part of the job. They were tight.
Hey there, I am attempting to replace the alternator in my 2009 XC90 3.2 2WD. I am having trouble locating/accessing the lower manifold bolts. I removed the panel underneath but the oil pan buts right up to a cross member of the frame leaving no room to access the bottom of the engine. Is there another way to get to those bolts? I can't find a video where anyone else has had that issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
HI Jeremy, I cannot say whether or not the 2009 is exactly that same as the 2014, but fast forward to 6:55 on my video.. that is where the two bolts are on the lower intake manifold... yes, they were awkward to reach, but not terribly difficult.
@@LoneStarMini, hey thanks for the quick response! Out of curiosity, did you access the lower bots between the cross member of the frame and the radiator or did you go through an opening between the oil pan and the cross member? The reason I ask is I have seen other videos going through this process where different year XC90's seem to offer a more favorable configuration.
I just found a video on how to remove the skid plate under the radiator, I believe that will work. Thanks again for the prompt response. Much appreciated!
@Jeremy U , I had the same exact problem on my '08 XC90. At first I was going to remove the skid plate under the radiator but after looking more I don't know that it would make much more room given it appears it is the fan that is creating the blockage. I ended up getting the bolts out. I had to pretty much feel around by touch and using a wobble extension, short handle ratchet, and 8mm socket plus a whole lot of patience got them both out. Probably took an hour over all just because I had to do everything by feel, it is really tight in there and had zero line of sight to the bolts.
agreed.. changing out the alternator and "belt" is certainly a horrible design, especially when given they are components that will require replacement more often..
Best video I've seen on the topic. Shortest video with most detail. Skips all the unnecessary chit chat and gets straight to the point. Thank you for added detail on removing the different types of electrical connections. Well done. Other video posts can take a lesson from this one.
Appreciate the positive feedback.. and I'm glad it may have been helpful.
Dude this video is fantastic. No unneeded talk, very helpful on sensor locations and what EXACTLY is needed to get the job done. Explanations of what to do and why are on point. Very Good video editing as well. I wish others did the same.
Well I like to personally say this was a very good presentation of removal alternator but I like to recommend that you install a grand new gates belt for the alternator and check all your other lines and sensors in that area because this is the best time to do this while you're in the area. I also like to recommend my personal idea if you remove something install brand new that way you won't have to worry about it breaking down when you put it back together. Also if possible for the alternator I will install brand bolts and know the torque value for all of your nuts and bolts that you going to install. Just from personal experience I had an alternator bolt come out after a new install. I like to investigate the area of repair not just focusing on the repair itself but the whole area so you can remove all sensors and replace them with new sensors. Also recommend replacing any gaskets that you remove especially if your car has over 150,000 miles
Couldn’t have done this without your video. Thank you so much!
I would like to say my THANK YOU VERY MUCH for this video. I have a 2007 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD and Louetta Auto charged me 1300 dollars to replace my alternator. I went to Autozone and bought a new one for 250 bucks. I have no experience in car maintenance despite my Eng. degree, I never disassembly any part of any car ever. With your video and a good set of tools I could replace the alternator without any issue. Was difficult find the 2 bolts in the botton and unplug all sensors but finally I made it. Thanks you again, you helped me a lot. Cheers !!!!
Awesome.. glad the video was helpful!!
Ronan Vilarinho I received error code w warning to service power system after completing replacement per your video. Any suggestions. 2008 Volvo xc 90 awd. Thanks Tony
@Ronan Did the battery 🔋 light turn off on your dashboard after u installed the new alternator?
Best. Video. Ever. One of those connectors has had me stuck for 45 minutes (#5 in your video). Showing how each connector releases was brilliant, and just made my day. Now I can finally get the manifold out!
How did you remove intake air duct that connects to the throttle body? I have the clamp loosen but it won't disconnect.
@@jayunkaymail5454 Yeah, so I actually got stuck there. Whoever last worked on this part had oriented the hose clamp so it wasn't accessible from below or above. It basically required removing the radiator or having really long, stretchy, thin arms. We got hit with a snow storm before I could finish, so I had a local shop do it.
But assuming you've got the clamp released, I think you should be able to get it loose with some work. Sometimes it just takes a bit of force to get a coupling lose after removing the clamp. All things considered, getting to this was a PITA, but if you've gotten this far I think you can do it. Wiggle, pull, struggle. Good luck!
Glad it was of use and helped out..
Thank you so much for the video, it was very helpful to me to complete alternator replacement job on my 2010 XC90!
Glad it was helpful!!
Thanks for posting this video. I’m about half way through changing my wife’s alternator and your guide to sensor locations and methods for removal is greatly appreciated. I’m sure you saved me a few broken connectors.
Thank you for letting me know it was of use to you.. glad it helped
Five years on ... still super helpful. Thanks!!
Absolutely vest video ever made. Thanks so much.
Thanks
Thanks, great video. Unfortunately my HOA would consider this a major repair, which I can't do on premises so I'll have to take this to my mechanic.
If you have garage space.. It really doesn’t need much room as it is not like you’re taking the car apart.. all the best
Installing the alternator is the easy part damn all the other stuff is crazy
Excellent video. I particularly appreciate the time you took to show the details for the various electrical connectors. That was really helpful!
YuDaMan glad it was useful to you!!
Same procedure for my wife's 2007 V70 3.2. Got the charging system failure message and most of that era seem to be the loose bolt on the engine side coupler sprocket. Going to dig in this weekend. Thanks for the very clear and concise video. Not a stranger to Volvo as we're on our 4th and 5th consecutive and I DIY all of them. Still, the intake manifold was a mystery and there is very little to no information on Volvo from about 2007 on. Thanks again.
Erwin Roman certainly... glad that the video is offering help to others.
Wow, what an excellent video. You handled that with ease. Very impressive for someone who has never even worked on a Volvo SUV before. I have a 2008 xc90, and some things are easy on it, others hard. This video however makes it look easy. I will be use this video as a guide when I tackle this job come spring. Thank you! Just subscribed!
Thanks Bruce.. Removing the electrical connectors are/were the hardest for me. Everything else is straight forward. All the best on your DIY...
You saved me alot! Car died while going to work. had it towed home and the thought of towing to the repair shop was expensive, not to mention I had this issue 6 months ago. Well I found out my mechanic "fixed" this problem last time. And to make things worst they broke one of my connectors which took me 3 hours to disconnect because I had to remove the RTV they used and I had to unhook it with a small tool, of course it was the hardest one to reach. Any how, I don't recommend removing the oil cap while removing the cover, debris can fall inside and I covered the intake openings while I was working on the alternator.
Glad the video was useful... have had similar problem with dealer mechanics and it’s tough to get them to own up...
@@LoneStarMini Not to mention they probably would have charged me to replace the connector.
One other thing, there is a small rectangular rubber "gasket" on connector 5 that fell out when I disconnected it, it is clear so easy to miss when it does. And I found that Connector 4 and Vent tube was easier to remove after I unbolted the intake and shifted it.
Thank you for showing how to remove the plenum! Timesaver!
years later and this is still helpful, thank you
Good to know.. and I'm glad it was of use... thanks for the affirmation...
Thank you, sir. No stone left unturned!
Glad it was of use…
Very Helpful, just had the alt pulley bolt that comes loose issue and no charging. this helped a lot thank you..
Awesome.. glad the video was useful!! unfortunately you had to tear it all the way down just to find a loose bolt..
Thank you. Very helpful for doing this job on on 2008 as everything was exactly the same. Took about 2 hours to complete.
great.. glad it was the same and worked out
Hope you get this message,, thank you,,,,thank you,,, .... You took the time to make this video,,, you saved me,,,, . Thanks again ,
appmia1 glad it was helpful!!!
Awesome, thorough video. Thank you!!
Great Video. Amazingly detailed content, yet it was short and to the point.
The only thing I would add would be the torque specifications for all the bolts. You could use icons like you did with the sensors, so you don't have to lay another audio track.
any special torque needed?
@@Royce1982 I don't recall the torque specs, but (IIRC) they are bolt specific and year specific. I called my local Volvo dealer's service department and they were polite enough to supply the torque specs for each bolt. I was working on a couple of different vehicles' alternators at the time so I may be getting them confused.
😊😊😊😊 9:21 😊il😊😊
Rather than chase the bottom mounting bolts & bushings for the intake manifold, I superglued the bushings to the manifold and inserted the bolts with rubber bands to hold them in while installing the manifold. Also if you get a voltage Low or High message, it would be a good idea to disconnect the battery cable that is under the hood at the B+ terminal that runs to the alternator to protect your battery.
Good job on the bushings..
Thank you for a very detail tutorial. Volvo alternator design is very interesting. $600 for a volvo alternator is a crazy price plus if you paid the dealer to do it will be even more.
you're welcome
thanks uncle Randy !
Hopefully it helps.. The electrical connections were the only challenging part… just a little time
awesome video, especially the connector removal.
Hopefully it was helpful...
Thanks for the great video. I’m not sure how you managed to get 18 thumbs down. Some people have nothing better to do I guess than to criticize.
Thank you Russ.. I don't even look at the thumbs up or down..... My memory is not the best so it's for my future reference and if it helps others along the way, then fantastic. Thank you for the compliment.
Lone Star Mini thanks for making the video. I’m in the middle of doing my alternator and my floor jack is dead and it’s midnight. Nobody is open to sell me a new one lol. I’m too fat to fit under the car and can’t get to the underside of the plastic skid plate! Should’ve probably just paid a shop to do it. ☹️
@@russjordan243 just had the exact same issue with changing the shocks on My suburban where my floor Jack died. I had to pull out the actual Jack that came it’s the car and use some lumber and cinder blocks .... managed to get it done.... I’ve now been watching videos how to fix my floor jack
Lone Star Mini lol I was too lazy to figure out the regular jack. After you get used to the floor jacks you just don’t wanna crank on something anymore.
That was a really helpful video. Ii have a Landrover Freelander 2 (LR2?) with the same engine and there isn't much about for them.
Many thanks Sir.
good deal.. glad it helped to some degree....
Thanks; very helpful..our alternator and overrunning clutch was good; ultimately found the decoupling drive bolt was extremely loose on the engine side
I've heard this has happened... hopefully all is well now with your Volvo
I have a XC90 2011, I hope I run into similar stuff, the weird thing is my alternator is making a wining noise so I do not know if is the bearings on it or the whole thing is out
Thank you so much for this video. I was able to change out my alternator using this tutorial and it cleared my "Power System Service" warning and "over voltage" warning as well. So thorough, clear and helpful.
Thanks for the feedback. Glad it helped out.
Thank you Randy or your great video, good explanation, good lighing and picture, it realy helped me
Refugio Chavez glad it helped someone else!!!
Thank you great video
This is a fantastic video. Great job on it!
Thank you.. hopefully it helps a little.
Very helpful video, thank you very much for sharing.
markelasri glad it helped in some way...
Thank you so much for this video. It really helped, we had a plug and couldn't find where it went. Than you thank you thank you!!!!!
I'm glad it helped!!
Getting ready to do this what was the star socket for? I didn’t see you use it? Great video.
Volvo is notorious for using nearly all torx bits.. I don’t remember the exact fastener, but you will no doubt need a torx.
Great video ! Thanks for the details
Glad it helped in some way...
Thank you so much I really appreciate it
Hopefully it was useful!!
Thank you so much for sharing this video!!
You're welcome
I wonder how similar this is to the XC70? Can the alternator be removed without taking off the manifold (like it one is doing the belt/idler replacement) ?
I wish I could say.. I can only imagine that it is similar.
Amazing ❤
There are guide sleeves in the two bottom bolts. Did you replaced those and installed four new bolts?
I just ordered a reman alternator (180 Amp) for my 2008 XC90. It's whining and more than likely the bearing or the pulley.
I am getting the charge system warning on the dash 2011 S80. Also the battery light. It's -14 and can work on the car. Had to bring it to a shop to get the alternator replaced. Did the AC Delco stand the test of time ????? Only one I can find around here is a Napa Power rebuilt unit for $500 tax inc. Good video .
Hey Now David, Yes, my AC delco is still running strong as I've had good luck with them (knock on wood). I'm sure the Napa items are good too, but make sure it's exactly the same. Thanks for the complimenet.
@@LoneStarMini The closest mechanic around me is a Ford dealership. The shop will be replacing the alternator with a reman unit. Since it's Ford getting the part for me and doing the job, it will come with a 2 year warranty. Normally I would never bring it to a Ford shop, but when your car is going to die from running on only the remaining battery power, your options are limited.
Very well explain thanks mister.
Shepell thanks for letting me know. Hope it does help...
Best of best
Yeees. Very helpful thank you
Awesome.. glad to have helped...
Great video.. thanks for posting
sure thing...
I have a 2011 XC60. Do you know is it the same as this to replace the alternator?
It’s highly likely, however I cannot be certain given I don’t have an xc60. If I had to guess, I would say ‘Yes’. All the best….
Thanks,changed mine with your help,with same number alternator but my "power system service urgent"and little battery are still lit, called a volvo repair shop was told after market alternators dont always communicate with car.is that true or does it take time to turn off ,alternator is charging at 13.5-14,and i installed a new battery,help again
Well. I've heard that said, but have never experienced it myself. Can't honestly say, but I also purchased the iCarSoft Vol V2.0 code reader which allows you to clear codes, etc.. I did not need to clear any code with the AC Delco alternator so I'm not sure. The 13.5-14 Volts is a good reading though. anything below 13, I would begin to question it. FYI.. I keep the old alternator and have a local shop rebuild/refurbish it. Therefore I'm ready when this happens again. It's much cheaper this route..
Best video on this job that I've seen! (what is the Torx 20 for?)
@randy My drive side gear bolt was loose. Any idea on how to hold the gear or rest of the system so that I can torque it down? When I try to tighten, it just drives the rest of the accessories.
Have u had any issues with the aftermarket alternator you purchased? I was reading a volvo forum and everyone was insisting you have to get a genuine volvo alternator or youd have issues. I'm wondering what your experience has been so far?
Zero Issue.. AC Delco has proven incredibly reliable to myself. you don't need "genuine"
I found it on amazon but when I check vehicle fitment it says it wont work with the 2008 3.2 I have. That's weird I would think 2014 and 2008 would have same alternator since we both have same engines. It's the same exact vehicle as far as I know
Thank you brother!!
You're welcome!
Did you have to move parts from the original alternator to your new ac delco alternator?
Thanks a lot for this video! With this video I could fix this typical problem in Volvo T6 3,2 liter gasoline engine with alternator pulley bolt loosening in my Volvo XC70 (2008)! The only thing I needed (except hard work) was a bolt lock glue!
awesome.. glad it was of help to you!!
I'm working on the v8 model. Please pray for me.
Hopefully it will be much better....
@@LoneStarMini it's not. I had to give a blood sacrifice to get it in there today. I've done the I5 ones. They're a dream compared to the v8. There's just no room to work.
Hey, great video. I am having trouble with the clips. Do you they would be the same on a 2010 xc90? thanks
Hello…. I cannot day for certain, but I would think they should be similar. They were the most difficult part
What is the correct amperage to have of the new alternator?
Did you have two alignment dowels in the block to the alternator ?
No alignment dowels...just the 4 10mm bolts
VERY GOOD!
Is there no tensioner belt?
saw it for the first time.
When putting the intake manifold back on, I’m replacing the 6 gaskets...do I have you use some kind of sealant? A dab of motor oil?
I'm not the expert, but I don't believe sealant is a good thing here.
Very Nice
Sweet
Thanks!!
sure thing...
Where did you buy the ACDELCO alternator from? Thank you
I have a local AC Delco dealer where’s love however I bounce prices off Amazon and other online reps. Shouldn’t be difficult to find. Please note: if you still have the original alt, keep it and find a place in town to have it restored. I wish I had kept mine
@@LoneStarMini once again thank you
How long do guys estimate this job will take armed with the great information and gotchas that Randy provided? I'm going to need to do one myself very soon. Thanks!
Robert Kim I think if took me 2-3 hours without any info. I think it can be done in 1.5 hrs if you’re the non mechanic like myself. Removing the electrical connectors was the hardest part for me. When ppl tell me X-hours, I double it
@@LoneStarMini Great. That's good to know. I guess there's not too many gotchas other than those tricky connectors. Looks pretty straighforward. Do you have to jack up the front of the car to get to the bottom bolts?
how hard is it to work on Volvo's?
Cannot say honestly as this is our first Volvo SUV. While replacing the alternator was not hard, it definitely took more time than the typical alternator. wish I could offer more...
Randy Almand thank you very much. they look like solid cars I'm just doing some research on the repairability of them
Pain in ass
Great car but my husband hates working on them. I am on my third or fourth! All have been used. I love it though!
Lol you can get to about everything under the hood eventually with out pulling the engine but once you’re halfway in you’ll want to rip out all the hoses pull it out throw it on the ground poor gas on it set it on fire and let out a primal scream. But if you like searching the internet to solve your weekly Volvo problem and like the challenge of a good puzzle and constant price shopping to avoid Volvo money grabs you’ll love these cars I still *ucking do but I don’t know why. The old b230 brick and 5 cylinders are great and fun to fix but this ford Land Rover bs is a little ridiculous and the new Chinese crap I am sure I will never own good luck fixing you super turbo generator powered Chinese four cylinder! Just go buy a Lamborghini probably cheaper in the long run. On the plus side maybe now that they’re Chinese maybe all the bearings will stop failing pretty funny how alot of Volvo bearings seem to fail in the worst spots and two replace they usually want you to buy the full $$$$ unit I really hate the mf ers but they’re cars are so pretty even though they dent like Play dough. I guess I just love punishment. VOLVO for the masochist in all of you.
Randy Almand I received error code w warning to service power system after completing replacement per your video. Any suggestions. 2008 Volvo xc 90 awd. Thanks Tony
This sounds like something with your battery. Make sure cables going to battery have solid connections assuming you removed them when replacing the alternator. Otherwise, check your battery or have it checked. With that said, I'm not proficient with my Volvo so I too would have to do further research. I hope the best for you!
Lone Star Mini Thanks for your reply. I went out and checked the connections at the battery which I did detach & reset as part of the job. They were tight.
Hey there, I am attempting to replace the alternator in my 2009 XC90 3.2 2WD. I am having trouble locating/accessing the lower manifold bolts. I removed the panel underneath but the oil pan buts right up to a cross member of the frame leaving no room to access the bottom of the engine. Is there another way to get to those bolts? I can't find a video where anyone else has had that issue.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
HI Jeremy, I cannot say whether or not the 2009 is exactly that same as the 2014, but fast forward to 6:55 on my video.. that is where the two bolts are on the lower intake manifold... yes, they were awkward to reach, but not terribly difficult.
@@LoneStarMini, hey thanks for the quick response! Out of curiosity, did you access the lower bots between the cross member of the frame and the radiator or did you go through an opening between the oil pan and the cross member? The reason I ask is I have seen other videos going through this process where different year XC90's seem to offer a more favorable configuration.
I just found a video on how to remove the skid plate under the radiator, I believe that will work. Thanks again for the prompt response. Much appreciated!
Jeremy U good luck...
@Jeremy U , I had the same exact problem on my '08 XC90. At first I was going to remove the skid plate under the radiator but after looking more I don't know that it would make much more room given it appears it is the fan that is creating the blockage. I ended up getting the bolts out. I had to pretty much feel around by touch and using a wobble extension, short handle ratchet, and 8mm socket plus a whole lot of patience got them both out. Probably took an hour over all just because I had to do everything by feel, it is really tight in there and had zero line of sight to the bolts.
Why do you think you need a new one so fast?
Is that a v8?
It is a 6 cylinder
Great video horrible design.
agreed.. changing out the alternator and "belt" is certainly a horrible design, especially when given they are components that will require replacement more often..