Finally, Inlays Made Simple
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2022
- Far to often inlays are made to look complicated. Time to break the barrier and show the simplicity of inlays
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I must say your explanation of doing inlays was wonderful and simple to follow. I appreciate it and again thanks for sharing your expertise.
Thank you very much
I finally just picked up my X-Carve and have been watching your videos for a while to be prepared. I appreciate all of your work on these videos to help us out and give us a better understanding of how to use these machines. You must of been a teacher in your past life, because you know how to relate to us and explain things in the simplest way. Thank you for all you do.
Thank you so very much. No, I have never been a formal school teacher. I have taught many courses in the military and I was an instructor pilot for a number of years.
Awesome video. Thank you for helping us learn.
Thanks for this video. Nice to actually see what the inlay looks like when placed in the wood.
Glad that the video helped you
*The detailed explanation was great Paw Paw!* I have to get the CNC up and running again....
Thank you very much. CNC is as much fun as the laser
Love your Utube channel! Couldn’t help myself.
Great timing! I have a commission up next & haven’t done inlays yet. Thank you.
Awesome! Remember, this is just an introduction to get you started. If you have questions please ask
Thanks for the tips. Go Tigers!
You’re very welcome
Great video!! Very helpful. I was wondering what would you suggest step over and step down for 1/4” shank 30 degree v bit. Thanks
I'm still quite new to the cnc world and when I started leaning v-carve inlays in Vectric, I wanted to understand what those numbers really were instead of just copying someone's number. It was hard to find a good explanation, but I finally did and It's actually pretty simple. Flat depth for Female is how deep you want it in your female. Let's say 0.2". The male piece start depth is how deep you want you inlay to be inside the Female pocket. I want to leave 0.05" of space for glue, so I do 0.2 - 0.05 = 0.15" Male start depth 0.15" The Male flat depth is how much you want it to stick out from female surface after glueing to male waste material for cutting on bandsaw. I use 0.1". But BEWARE, with deeper inlay, you need to do multiple passes as you don't want your tool to plunge right at the beginning at 0.15" to start carving 0.1. You will break your tool. You need to create multiple v-carve passes more shallow.
So far I had good result with this understanding with both shallow and deeper inlays.
I hope this can help you as much as it did for me!
Excellent explanation. You have a very good understanding of the inlay process. Well done. Thank you very much
Thank you, this explains it so well! I've been having so many problems, but I think what you explained here will help. When you do the first pass to avoid breaking the bit, do you follow the same contour at that pass, or just clear the whole area at that depth?
Great explanation! Thanks!! BTW GO GATORS!!!
Thank you.
Thanks
I have wanted to make my inlay so it fits more in the pocket.
So I used the version of .02 start end and .14 flat. My problem is that when I use the .16 to do the vcarve in the female part the letters won't fit like yours does. I used a v 30 on both
.16 female with v 30 bit
.02 start and .14 for flat depth
Letters on male too big
Great video and explanation!!
Did you do the video with a 6.2 degree vbit?
Sir the blue bit stopper around the bit can they be brought. also the the set of hold down screws where can i find them thanks
The blue stopper is not sold separately. These bits are the one that I purposed from the Inventables store
I see on your shop wall that you have military signs. Do you sell the layout for the signs?
No I do not sell the layouts as the military logos are copyrighted. In the videos you have all the information to create your own design
Could you glue-up two seperate pieces of wood of the same depth (different colors) to do the same job at one time, with the contrasting inlay?
Yes you can. However, most often the plug is a thinner piece of material. You also have to consider the location of the material in relation to the design on your computer. That is why most people run two separate jobs.
Did you also use the clearance tool to hog out most of the material on the inlay piece?
Normally yes, I did not do that on this little test
Was just wondering this, I bought the SainSmart 4030 Prover xl v2 that came with a 400 watt spindle, was going to change it to a Mikita router. My question is should I just leave the 400 watt spindle or change it. I already own the router so there’s no investment. I really enjoy your videos showing me how to make things. Right now I’m trying to learn Vcarve Desktop. Keep up the good work. Jon
I like the 400 watt spindle. I like the power which is sufficient and I like the fact that the software turns on and off the spindle
Sir. 1 am on the south shore on the westbank. all i have for wood is lowes or home depot. my question is can i use say 3/4 or one inch stock.
Yes, you can use that material. I wish we had a true hardwood store in our area
@@PawPawsWorkShop yes sir u are right when using a 3/4 stock must i chage my setings
Can use V-Carve software to create G-Code, then send to V-Carve to cut project?
VCarve will generate the gcode. You need a controller to send the gcode to the machine. VCarve cannot do that
What bit is that? And where did you get it from? Thanks
This is a standard 60 degree v bit that you can get at any big box or hardware store.
Do you sell the plans/gcode for the military crests behind you on the wall? I would pay for the vectors for the Air Force logo
I can’t sell the files because it’s not legal. To legally sell you must register with the government and pay the fees. The marine corp is actually easy, the Air Force and the army are difficult to get the necessary information
I understand the purpose of the gap between the M and F pieces: It is there so that you can press the 2 pieces down and the force will "fall" on the slopes. I do not understand the purpose of the other gap that causes a cavity. What's the purpose of that one? Besides, cavities will only exist where flat surfaces exist. Inlay areas too small, won't have a flat, will have no cavity beneath them
Are you in paw paw michigan?
No, south Louisiana
Go Gators!
I must not be paying attention because I cannot find the Easel Inlay Video you said would be linked below.
Here is the link. ua-cam.com/video/Z7sSAV1wkAU/v-deo.html
It’s very basic pocket style inlay. Easel can not do the VCarve. I’ve tried numerous times to make an easy process
@@PawPawsWorkShop thank you so much for the fast reply. I watched that video a few times already, it's very helpful, but I really wanted to give it a try with the inlay method you had in this video. I've seen some amazing cutting boards using this method. I've searched for days now looking for a video that shows this method using Easel. I almost gave in and called Inventables today but they're closed.
You need VCarve by Vectric to do the inlays. That’s what I used in this video. Easel is not going to do it
@@PawPawsWorkShop crazy question. a quick Google search probably would give me the answer, but I have the X-Carve Pro 4x4. I believe it only works with Easel and no other software?
If I understand correctly it is GRBL so no. You should be able to design in for example VCarve then create the gcode and use a sender such as Openbuilds controller.
You misspelled FSU GO NOLES
Lol, go tigers
just use two sided tape
Yes, that will work just fine
My plug identifies as female.
Ok