Inlay Story Board that explains the start depth numbers for my Onefinity Journeyman and a 15° bit
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- Опубліковано 25 січ 2023
- #cnc #onefinity #cncmachine #inlay #maker #carveco
In this video I experiment with the Inlay Numbers I learned from other UA-camrs in order to learn the correct setting for my Onefinity Journeyman and the 15° bit that I prefer to use. I use Carveco Maker, but I'm sure this method can be converted to V-Carve. - Навчання та стиль
Brilliant video. have read some of the comments about the spacing on the bottom, that's argumented to be zero. In my opinion you must have a spacing between she two parts. if you have at fit that is to tight, you will press the glue down towards the bottom making it impossible for the glue to get out from the bottom. I know it must be tight! But take that in consideration when testing.
Even if its a perfekt fit, its impossible to pres the glue out if the sides closes before the glue can escape.
only my experience. I hope it makes sense!
Best regards
kent
Thank you for making this video, it's exactly what I was looking for. It was a real lightbulb moment when you explained that the start depth is basically how deep into the piece you're pushing the vector that the bit will follow, so that why it changes the size of the flats.
I tried my first inlay last night with a 60 degree V bit just guessing numbers (0.1 start and .1 max male/ female cut to .2) and it gave me really tight joints, but now I want to cut it open and see what kind of gap it left at the bottom.
I'm excited to see what other stuff you post.
Yeah, it was definitely a lightbulb moment for me too. I kept asking other people in forums and on UA-cam why the different stop depths are necessary, and no one would give me a straight answer. Glad I could help another answer that question.
Thank you for sharing such a great video, I found it to be very helpful. I've been struggling with similar issues as I figure out how to do v-carve inlays with Carveco. If anyone can share how to setup a ball nose endmill (carving bit) in Carveco to use for v-carve inlays that would be a huge help. I have an Amana 46282 (5.4 Deg Tapered Angle Ball Tip 1/16 Dia x 1/32 Radius x 1 x 1/4 Shank x 3 Inch Long x 4 Flute Solid Carbide Up-Cut Spiral) that I'm trying to use for v-carve inlays. I'm not sure how to account for the 1/32" tip radius. If I enter it as a v-bit or a radiused engraving tool the male insert is very loose. I have been successful using a 60 degree v-bit for v-carve inlays with a night snug fit. But cannot seem to figure out how to setup these finer carving bits to use for the v-carve inlays with more detail.
I've seen several videos with people using ball nosed bits. It looks like they find the angle of the bit and then they tell Carveco that it's the degree of v-bit. I'm guessing that's the reason why they use a start depth of .20 on a .25 inlay, but I'm not certain.
Visually would it be okay to have pockets same length as board, do your inlay to be able to see where your at on the ends
It might work, but I wanted to have it so all sides were fitting in so I could know for sure that the results could be trusted.
Both male and female cut depth have to equal.
Female start depth 0.00
Flat depth is .25
Male start depth .24
Flat depth .01
Equals .25
That will give you a. 01 gap in the inside bottom for glue squeeze out at the same time giving you a .01 gap where they meet up.
This works with .02 and .03 just subtract form the. 25 to get .23 or .22
I use female start 0
flat depth .2
Male I use start depth .18 flat depth .02
Works perfect for me and I’m using same software and Onefinity machine
Try it it out
Works for me too. (these are in inches BTW)
John Paul Jones ?
I would model it in cad to get the numbers I need.
But does Carveco maker dont have a male inlay milling strategy? The symbol next to the V-Carve symbol.
The inlay strategy in Carveco is for endmills. It can work for some projects, but you can get finer details and sharp corners in your inlay with this V-carve method.
Make the sum of the start and flat more than the plug. That’s your space between boards. If the fit is loose, reduce start depth and increase flat depth by same amount. That has the effect of widening the plug. Cross cut fit on sample for glue space which should be very small. It’s NOT a glue space. No one leaves space for glue in any glue up. And no one that has done an inlay ever uses the exact amount of glue…can’t be measured or perfectly applied. It goes to the bottom and gets pushed out. The gap is for small debris and irregularities in bottom that would influence the fit, not some magical amount of excess glue. The “perfect” fit is one that is tight and has a minimal “glue” space. That’s the trade off. There are other variables such as the actual and calculated geometry of the bit used particularly the tip size. Your software calculates different tool paths depending on if your bit is “categorized” as a V-bit, TBN or engraving bit and the inlay results will vary. And more frustrating if you don’t understand the differences, some V-bits are engraving bits. There is no such thing as an “inlay bit”. We force a bit to do inlays. And until you come to grips with that, you will be forever frustrated. The test-adjust is the only method to use.
The .24/.01 worked perfectly for my setup at the time. When I redid the cutting board, there was no glue gap. I think when I build my press, I may switch to .25/.01. But also my v-bit has a .03mm flat on the tip, so that affected things too.
@@tinkercraftsandtravels6575
It’s very possible that you are bottoming out at the bottom or between boards if your plug is .25. The hand press fit should require a screwdriver pry to separate them and still leave a small gap in the bottom and between board surfaces.
Click on first toolpath, hold shift and click on last toolpath, then delete all 5 at same time
Nice! Thanks for the tip!
@@tinkercraftsandtravels6575 Youre welcome...and Thank you for the inlay video, it finally makes sense now. I've watched all those same videos you did and everyone has these magical numbers but can't explain them. Your last story board with the .24 and .01 start and max depth finally made sense to me.
@Clint Hulsey Sometimes, completely mucking something up, as I did with the first storyboard, is the best way to learn how things work.