Correct about those other videos, and when you have that feeling of doubt you should listen to it!! LOL… Oh man!! I am sorry I didn’t find this before!! You’re exactly right about other videos and one of them I had or did have 100% confidence in his advice from previous topics I had viewed on the Cummings issues. So thankful you put this out! And thankfully I knew to remove inner fender liner. (From that same guy). I hope other people find your video and not have to figure it out the hard way… unlike myself…. as I’m at the back of the truck wondering how in the hell is this upstream? LOL feeling inside thinking to myself…I’m a Effing moron? you know what they say always listen to that Inner Voice LOL. I went so far…. as to think I had the wrong part !! All the best and thanks again
Just replaced mine using your video, thanks. I went ahead and bought the OEM part from the dealership (I figured it was hard to change it so I did not want to do it twice in case I buy a faulty part). However I guess I was hoping the light will just go away but it didn't. How do I clear the codes? and how do I make sure they are not just going to come back. I am about to sell my truck and I don't want to be that guy that sells something and next day your CEL is on. Once again thank you for the video, it was very helpful.
Thanks so much for the comment. Once a CEL “new” part is installed and driven the ECM should read that the part causing error has stopped and erase on its own. Typically, the computer will take some time up to 50 miles from my personal experience but each CEL code and vehicle is diff. You can always take ur vehicle to Oreillys as they have the OBDII reader/scanner to erase it. Also, u can purchase a decent one too that can do the same basic functions on the cheap. Hope this helps.
I noticed the original NOx sensor had a heat shield on it, and the one you replaced didn’t. Have you run into any issues with the new sensor (without the heat shield)? I just bought one to replace mine and it came without the heat shield. I’m a bit skeptical as it’s suppose to be an OEM part. Thanks for the great video!!!
Good video after I snipped all the damn zip ties holding wires from the last dumbass that replaced mine, yes it was the dealer. And the only difference between the part the deal has that they charge $600 plus labor total $975. Is they order it with a heat shield wrap. Pull off the old one afix it to the $69 one and you are good. Did I mention I hate zip ties they suck. Especially in the situation.
Mine is now showing a p014c 02 sensor slow response- rich to lean bank 1 sensor 1. Drives fine. But do you think the sensor needs to be replaced or maybe the harness?
9 out of 10 it’s the sensor due to carbon and gunk build up. U can try cleaning first. Wiring can be an issue due to connection, broken wire, or disconnection. Condensation can also be an issue as well triggering a faulty code.
@@OperationRV I wonder if it’s okay to drive it a little while until I get it fixed? The soonest I can get it looked at is august 12th but I might just try changing it myself idk. I cleared the code but it will be back here soon.
@@trenton6388 I drove mine a while before figuring how to clean/replace it. I personally didn’t experience any issues other than the annoying check engine light.
@@OperationRV let’s say my truck goes to Mexico and on the way back it loses some parts. Let’s call it a weight reduction lol would this sensor still need to be replaced? Or would it even matter then?
@OperationRV can you send a link or show which one you got off Amazon? I just got one and don't think it's working. I've heard the computer doesn't recognize any other than stock?? You got one off Amazon and it fixed your issue 100%? Please link which one you bought
@OperationRV that link you sent me is showing a down stream sensor. You bought an upstream or down? And that one worked for you? I just got one off Amazon and I'm still having code
I’m glad this vid helped in some way! Please support my channel by subscribing and clicking the Bell. My Store is open too! Lots of custom Tees, merch, & swag… operationrv.printify.me
Be glad you had only 1 bolt holding that fkr on. Gah Damm engineers SUCK! Wire is cheap put that damm thing in a accessible location. Good video thanks
Thank you so much for making this video. Literally saved me from wasting hundreds of dollars.
Correct about those other videos, and when you have that feeling of doubt you should listen to it!! LOL… Oh man!! I am sorry I didn’t find this before!! You’re exactly right about other videos and one of them I had or did have 100% confidence in his advice from previous topics I had viewed on the Cummings issues. So thankful you put this out! And thankfully I knew to remove inner fender liner. (From that same guy). I hope other people find your video and not have to figure it out the hard way… unlike myself…. as I’m at the back of the truck wondering how in the hell is this upstream? LOL feeling inside thinking to myself…I’m a Effing moron? you know what they say always listen to that Inner Voice LOL. I went so far…. as to think I had the wrong part !! All the best and thanks again
Well Done and TY! Both mine crapped out at 51k
Great video man I really appreciate the tips and the step by step process.
@@carnelsullivan6009 Glad the vid helped in some way.
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Thanks brotha! Going to attempt soon!
You got this! Glad the vid helped, mine still running strong too!
thank you
hows that chinese part working ok over years ?!
To date: Absolutely zero issues at all. If interested click the link in my description and will take u to Amazon to purchase.
@@OperationRV
thank you sir
You saved the day, good video!
Thank you.
Thank you for the very informational video
Just replaced mine using your video, thanks. I went ahead and bought the OEM part from the dealership (I figured it was hard to change it so I did not want to do it twice in case I buy a faulty part). However I guess I was hoping the light will just go away but it didn't. How do I clear the codes? and how do I make sure they are not just going to come back. I am about to sell my truck and I don't want to be that guy that sells something and next day your CEL is on. Once again thank you for the video, it was very helpful.
Thanks so much for the comment. Once a CEL “new” part is installed and driven the ECM should read that the part causing error has stopped and erase on its own. Typically, the computer will take some time up to 50 miles from my personal experience but each CEL code and vehicle is diff.
You can always take ur vehicle to Oreillys as they have the OBDII reader/scanner to erase it. Also, u can purchase a decent one too that can do the same basic functions on the cheap. Hope this helps.
@@OperationRV Thank you
I noticed the original NOx sensor had a heat shield on it, and the one you replaced didn’t. Have you run into any issues with the new sensor (without the heat shield)? I just bought one to replace mine and it came without the heat shield. I’m a bit skeptical as it’s suppose to be an OEM part. Thanks for the great video!!!
No problems yet and I pull a 16k trailer ever so often. No lights, no issues at all. 100% fix.
The heat shield isn’t important I’m going to take mine off to so I can change sensor faster next time
You just saved me a couple hundred bucks! 🙏🏾💯💪🏾
That’s fantastic, glad to hear my vid helped in some way. Happy Holidays
Good video after I snipped all the damn zip ties holding wires from the last dumbass that replaced mine, yes it was the dealer. And the only difference between the part the deal has that they charge $600 plus labor total $975. Is they order it with a heat shield wrap. Pull off the old one afix it to the $69 one and you are good. Did I mention I hate zip ties they suck. Especially in the situation.
What is the part number for bank#1 upstream sensor?? Tnx..
Is the same for 2012 ram 3500 dually st ? Been looking for it
Thanks man I could not see how to release the harness connector and for sure would have broken it badly..
YW. Glad the vid helped. TGIF
Mine is now showing a p014c 02 sensor slow response- rich to lean bank 1 sensor 1. Drives fine. But do you think the sensor needs to be replaced or maybe the harness?
9 out of 10 it’s the sensor due to carbon and gunk build up. U can try cleaning first. Wiring can be an issue due to connection, broken wire, or disconnection. Condensation can also be an issue as well triggering a faulty code.
@@OperationRV I wonder if it’s okay to drive it a little while until I get it fixed? The soonest I can get it looked at is august 12th but I might just try changing it myself idk. I cleared the code but it will be back here soon.
@@trenton6388 I drove mine a while before figuring how to clean/replace it. I personally didn’t experience any issues other than the annoying check engine light.
@@OperationRV let’s say my truck goes to Mexico and on the way back it loses some parts. Let’s call it a weight reduction lol would this sensor still need to be replaced? Or would it even matter then?
This is p2201? Bank 1? The one for the rear near exhaust is bank 2?
Yes, this is Bank 1, Turbo side for code P2201
I just sent correct link, part#, description under other comment
Great job. I was pulling about my hair.
Thanks and glad this helped out. Please subscribe and click bell notification
Mine threw three different codes saying the turbo has lost communication and some other things I was told this sensor would fix it?
I’m not sure on that, I would put a OBD2 reader on it and scan for codes to see what it pulls.
Thanks man I’m trying this
Good luck and thanks for watching! Please Subscribe…
@@OperationRV is it really that hard to do it I call shops and they don’t want to replace it without charging me $200 just to look at it
If get my truck deleted will I have to change the sensor out still?
Good question, did you find out the answer???
Where did you get the sensor and has the code returned after changing out? Thanks
Purchased on Amazon. Check Engine Code deleted once installed and has not come back on.
@OperationRV can you send a link or show which one you got off Amazon? I just got one and don't think it's working. I've heard the computer doesn't recognize any other than stock??
You got one off Amazon and it fixed your issue 100%?
Please link which one you bought
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08V15QCQ2/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@OperationRV that link you sent me is showing a down stream sensor. You bought an upstream or down? And that one worked for you? I just got one off Amazon and I'm still having code
@@austenazevedo6078 did you change the sensor on the turbo with a downstream or upstream?
Did you remove the coolant tank
I’m glad this vid helped in some way! Please support my channel by subscribing and clicking the Bell.
My Store is open too! Lots of custom Tees, merch, & swag…
operationrv.printify.me
Whoever designed the connector mount hates mechanics. Tips on removing the lower bolt/nut appreciated. I will not be putting it back in.
You are absolutely correct, they don’t like mechanics that’s for sure. You are most certainly welcome, I’m happy this helped out.
Be glad you had only 1 bolt holding that fkr on. Gah Damm engineers SUCK! Wire is cheap put that damm thing in a accessible location. Good video thanks
Your video would be much more useful without the music. It's hard to hear what you're saying.
Sorry about that. Thanks for ur feedback, I can make some adjustments.
Do I need to remove the wheel