I think you've mastered being able to explain things in a simple way without talking to us like we are rodents. Your passion for this hobby really shows and I appreciate all of your efforts sharing your knowledge. Thanks!
@@Toid I'm quite pleased with it. Very detailed. Pairs well with that tweeter, which has quite a delicate touch. Can listen all day without any hearing exhaustion.
I was coming down here to look because I was considering this exact setup for my first diy build. Ill have to check them out if they're still available when I go to buy them lol
Nice video. I'm new to your channel but old to diy loudspeakers. A simple rule of thumb for driver size that generally works well is 13500/ diameter in inches. This will give you an approximate frequency where the driver dispersion will begin to beam and roll off, off axis. One thing i might have missed is sensitivity. If you're designing a passive system, the woofer needs to be 3-6 db more efficient than your desired average spl to compensate for baffle step, which is the frequency where the wave becomes bigger than the baffle and the enclosure isn't pushing it into the room as efficiently. This happens anywhere between 200- 800 hz depending on the baffle dimensions. Typically the large inductor on the woofer is used to create a falling response as frequency increases to compensate for this at lower frequencies. If you have a narrow enclosure and don't account for this, the bass/midbass will be thin and the speaker will sound extremely forward. My first good quality speaker had this problem, so i learned the hard way.
I did the same mistake. High end real piano clear speakers, so much work. I used though 2* 8" Dayton Rs225. Guy who designed crossover did good job, but it was real headache to get woofet and midbass blend well. I used side mounted woofer. So baffle is there ca 45 cm Adding subwoofer might help?
@@rinx34 It's so disappointing, I know too well. I used 2 6-1\2" Vifa midbasses and a good Morel tweeter. The mids and highs were beautiful, the speaker was very detailed and dynamic, but it had to have active eq to be listenable.
I love the way you explain the issues and solutions in your videos. You're really good at that. I tried hexibass but I can't keep up. I don't know. Maybe I'm dumb. But when you explain things I'm smart again. 😂 Thanks for these great videos
Excellent explanations and really useful to me as I'm considering a build using Dayton ND13 tweeters, which are ½" and thus definitely an unconventional choice. Unconventional choices should always be a yellow flag to a beginner, as it usually means we're overlooking something. In this case I think it's okay, as it's a 4-way system with DSP, crossing to ND65s (2½" midrange that measure more like 2" drivers) at 4.5kHz, and then to dedicated midbass -> subbass drivers. That gives me latitude not economically feasible for most commercial systems, but this video gives me a little more confidence and understanding of the design track I'm going down. Also, welcome reminder of the rule of thumb to cross over an octave above fs. Thank you.
Very well delivered! I’m planning on my first speaker build in 30 years and this video was extremely helpful! I just subbed your channel and I’m gonna start looking through your back catalog.
I'm curious about building a transmission line or some such out of tiny smartphone speaker drivers any thoughts or interest in doing a project like that yourself?
easily the BEST video on the subject on Earth!! :-))) tanx! sooo...if one finds "abandoned" pro stage speakers (ie: Peavey), should one use them as-is, or build the drivers/x-over into a "better" box? I've many, and they are HUGE and HEAVY!! :-))) what would you speaker-folks do with similar, please?
@Toid i have a question, if you double the fs to get your crossover frequency for a tweeter, does the same rule apply for any driver, of any size, playing any frequency range?
really great video but for woofers of brands other than Dayton on partsexpress the frequency response just has one black line, so how do I determine dispersion, crossover points and all that? please help
Nice video! Great simple advice on how to use the parameters. Any chance you could do a video on the different materials for woofers and tweeter comparing their pros and cons, i.e. Textreme vs paper vs glass woven and beryllium vs Textreme vs soft dome etc?
Ok, I understand the basic theory when looking at speakers. If picking drivers, and figuring out what works or does not work is difficult for a two or three way system, why not go with a 4 way system? Is it really difficult to add that extra driver in the crossover?
At what point are you using too many drivers at once? Space becomes a concern, budget, electronics, and you have to manage it all so one driver doesn't step over everything else. It's not really convenient, though it can be done.
Let's say I have a pair of interesting speaker boxes, but the drivers used for those speakers where specific made, so How should I know what might suit well, as drivers, for those boxes? Thank you!
I know it's probably too late 6 months later, but just in case it isn't or someone else needs it, I went through this exact scenario myself as the drivers in my vintage speakers began to fail. What you would do in this case is start by finding the interior volume of the box, and the port tuning if ported, as closely as you can. Then you hunt woofers that suit the boxes you have based on the internal box volume and tuning. After that you pick the woofer you like and find your tweeter based on crossover frequency as laid out in this video. Then you get to make crossovers, yay! Lol. Worked out very well for me, super satisfied with the results.
Excellent!!! Do you have a video on crossovers? Are store bought from a reputable source okay to use or do we always need to custom design using software? Many thanks...
For tweeter cross-over frequency, I have read that you must do 30db down in power level at FS. So the crossover point will be different depending on the crossover order.
Nice, i kinda like Scan speak speakers and a poly cone But i learned a few things i never thought of looking at. Subwoofer, I'd look at car audio speakers so are the Dayton speakers very good never used one.
Hello I have a Technics SU-V75 STEREO. I'm looking to replace the original speakers and was curious what would be the best fit. Came with SB-2665 cabinet.
Hey guys, pretty new to the scene. If your woofer is 8ohm and your tweeter is 4 ohm, does this change the frequency response of the crossover? Or when wiring do you just have to supply each with their respective voltage?
I´ve watched so many videos about how to build a crossover and so but almost no one was talking about what you did here :S should´ve seen this like 2 years ago
Great explanation, but the tweeters with the lower crossover points have lower power handlings. I have a 5.25" signature woofer with the DC25T-8 tweeter and the 3K is killing me but i'll have to "DSP" it out
A good rule of thumb as to what frequency to crossover at is one octave from the driver's limit. For example, a tweeter with a frequency response of 2,000Hz-18KHz, should be HIGH PASS filtered at 4,000Hz. With a 12dB/octave HP filter at 4KHz, a tweeter playing at 100dB will see 88dB at 2KHz, 76dB at 1,000Hz, 64dB at 500hz, 52dB at 250Hz and so on. A steeper slope on the roll-off helps greatly if you play your music loud. With a 24dB/octave filter at 4KHz, playing at 100dB, that same tweeter would only see 76dB at 2KHz, 52dB at 1,000Hz, 28dB at 500Hz, etc.
this video helps a lot, but i have a question, what about the impedance and sensitivity of the speakers, and even the power, i have a lot of questions, how the power is distributed between the woofer and the tweeter? thanks for the great content :)
That’s a great question. A crossover will distribute the power among the drivers and an L-pad will lower the sensitivity of the driver if needed. Those are all concepts that would be in another video. Although this is Steve, with the drivers could’ve been talked about in this video.
Do I have to tune to parts expresses recommended tuning frequency? Or can I tune below? I have built many speakers and they aren’t terrible but for example, I would use a 3-4 inch full range and the fs would be somewhere around 110, the recommended tuning frequency would be 90, but in the same box size I could tune it to 60-65 and be relatively flat, or atleast that’s what winisd tells me, but is it bad to do this?
You can tune below. What you will find out is that even you tune really low you will have cone excursion problems with less power. Shay’s check it excursion graph of your driver with the desired wattage you’d use.
Hello mate. I have a pair of celestion ditton 44 mk 2 empty cabinets 26" high. 13" deep. 12" wide. I'm putting 2 x 7" Dayton audio Rs180p woofers with 2x 10" passive radiators. Do you think they'll sound ok ? Thanks in advance from London
Hey Nick, nice video. But I have a bit of an overlap of experience coming from years of Car Audio. I'm a 25 hz port Tuning and even lower tunings kinda guy (low and windy :D ) and finally want to build my own 2.1 home system for moderate music listening, but LOTS of headroom for DEEP and clear bass. I feel like going with a 15 inch ported OR... 10 inch quarter wave transmission line. I have lots of space for that. Any thoughts on this? I would need a chassis with an Fs around 28 hz, I reckon. Greetings from Germany! PS: I currently run a B2 HN15 in a 5 ft³ net vented box tuned to 25 hertz on .5 ohms at around 4 kilowatts, of course that's way too extreme for home use, but on low volumes it sounds AMAZING. I want that but less violent, lol.
It can be as simple as finding one you like and building an enclosure that suits. Some things to think about: -intended use (rock or large orchestra need more powerful bass, acoustic small ensemble can get away with a smaller driver that will be less of a compromise in other ways). -cabinet size. Back loaded horns can help efficiency and low end but are large. -Flatness of frequency response. -true full range or extended range midbass with a supplemental woofer and or tweeter? There are benefits to both approaches. From a practical standpoint, based on my experience, a 3" full range with a woofer added for enhanced low end is pretty great: Small enough to really do a nice job with mid and treble but using a woofer to give adequate low end. It's a good compromise and can be implemented fairly easily either actively biamped or with a passive crossover. There are so many options, and it's one of the easier ways to get your feet wet with diy and have good results.
Hey my friend I've been following you for a long time and I think you have very good knowledge on speakers and I need your help if you can I would appreciate it I need to build 2 speakers to go to Mexico in an audiofile competition the speaker has to be one sub 4 drives and 2 tweaters am very good at building the box but I have a problem with deciding what speaker I should use on this project the sub woofer the 4 drivers and the 2 tweaters and btw if you can help me let me know what's the program do you use to build the cross over ? Thank you you are very appreciated
Bottom line, every driver has a sweet spot in the frequency range where it can play the best sound. What you want is that the combination of the woofer and the tweeter to cover as much of the 20-20kHz of human audible frequency with their sweet spot. If two drivers can't cover the range you want, you can always add more drivers to widen the range.
We didn’t really talk about that in this video. But the tweeter should at least be the same as woofer if not higher. It’s much easier to attenuate to attenuate the tweeter.
Hi, I want to Upgrade some Dayton bookshelf speakers “B562-Air”. They have a 1-inch Mini ATM tweeter and 6.5-inch woofer. I want to upgrade the crossovers at least but maybe the speakers too ?……Is it worth it or NOT ? They are rated for 40-watts but My AVR is 100watts per channel so I would like them to support 100watts at least or maybe 80watts. What do you think ? Is this possible and worth it or is it better to just build all New Speakers ? I don’t need Base heavy speakers because I have a 12-inch subwoofer. I use these as Surround in my home theater but I notice when I play music in stereo they can’t handle allot of wattage. So they need a better woofer setup in the bookshelf speaker.
I love this video. However, the problem I have with a lot of audio channels/forums is that they always talk about more or less the perfect set up. Like pull the speakers away from the wall or choose speaker X for the best midrange, etc. The reason this is a problem, is that people who are into this, prioritize the quality of what they are listening to. I wish that I could do this. But I have to live in the real world, where I don't have a dedicated room for this. I also have to use my home theater system to do double duty for listening to music. I don't have a wife that is willing to walk around a speaker pulled away from the wall on a stand to get to the bathroom. I have a room with 3-ish walls (sliding glass door) and an open-to-the-kitchen-at-the-back layout. It's not a small room really, but it's not big enough to accommodate a couch, a chair, an entertainment center and a bunch of speakers on stands around the room. I am forced to put them on the wall up high or perhaps in the ceiling . In this event, I really need to know the dispersion of the speaker in the vertical axis as well as the horizontal axis. Hell, I would be happy if someone would just do some videos on how to lay things out with different room configurations. Can you help?
It will play lower frequencies, but it will sound weaker overall, you will loose lots of output by trying to play few lower notes and it will move way more, so driver can be damaged by going above its Xmax.
Have you ever used a ribbon and a silk tweeter in a project? I'm going to experiment here, but beforehand I would like to know if you already tried this... I have ZERO experience on making speakers, I'm just adventuring myself for the first time.
I'm building a set of loud speakers with these components to be installed into 11.25 cuft box 18x18x60 4 JBL SELENIUM ST 400 TWEETERS, 2 JBL SELENIUM 8" M PRO MIDS, 2 12" JBL SELENIUM PRO WOOFERS, AND 1 15" JBL PR-15 PASSIVE RADIATOR IN A SEALED BOX AND WAS WONDERING WHAT CROSSOVER SET UP WOULD LET ME DRIVE THIS AT 6 OHMS. I AM WANTING THE GOOD SOLID BASS THAT I GOT FROM MY NORMAN LAB 9'S THAT I HAD BEFORE THEY WERE STOLEN, I HAVE A SET OF KLIPSH TOWER SPEAKERS WITH 12" POLK SUB WOOFERS BUT I DON'T GET THAT FULL RANGE RICH SOUND THAT THE NORMAN LAB 9'S GAVE
Just discovered your channel and it's most informative. I just picked up a pair of Jamo GF 25 old school speakers that take me back to my teenage years with my Technics gear. I also run a pair Jamo 707i and 507i with a 12" M & K sub. I am a fan of the warm sound of the Danish speakers and I am having a crazy idea to build some speakers out of our local hardwood timbers. Your thoughts on drivers? Happy to fling a few bucks for your thoughts
It’s a terrible match for other reasons but, you might address the sensitivity problem using the 12” woofer with the 5/8” tweeter WRT the sensitivity difference being in the wrong direction. Unless you’re adding in biamping or an autoformer as a means of dealing with it.
The sensitivity isn't an issue, with the 5/8" and 12" woofer. The woofer is 91db sensitivity, but once we take into account baffle step (between 5-6db loss) you are below the 88db of the tweeter. Having said that, sensitivity will be a whole another video, as that opens a whole lot more to think about. This is really just designed for the first few things you should look at. As the videos progress, a deeper understanding will develop.
Can you build a Home theater 7 speaker setup for under $1000 ( Bookshelf speakers and Center channel ) I think this is the holy grain for many peoples. Home theater enthusiasts want more for $1000 than cheap Klipsch speakers but you know they don’t want to spend allot of money. A good Home Theater setup that Sounds great for Movies and Music. Many peoples live in small houses and the Average TV room in USA is probably about 12x12 feet. With Wood frame walls. So you don’t need MASSIVE Speakers to SHAKE the Entire house. I think most Peoples are looking for a Balanced Natural sound that is EASY on the EARS for hours of listening Enjoyment. Many Peoples have low powered AVR with 70-to-100 watts per channel. What do you think ?……I think Home theater enthusiast are looking for the Right Balance in Sound Quality, Bookshelf Speaker Size, and Costs.
You should (in my opinionen) make the assumption that I am a beginner that dont even speak the same language as yourself.. Just saying 🙄🙄, jk. Thanks for upload.. Apreciate. Pz
@@Toid 😆😆😆, The speaker that you were going to build with the new horn is only available for patrons ? Or you didn't get to it yet? It would be nice a video explaining what you get with patron subscription. Thanks for the video BTW.
@@TexasCorgiGun that video is still coming. It’s not finished yet. I don’t usually do build videos specifically for patrons. But they do get access to the build plans when they come out. And we typically do crossover design live on the new builds.
@@TexasCorgiGun Patron videos tend to be more of the technical aspects of the build that don't fit into the regular videos. For example, in the "Rule Breaker" build, everyone could see the fab & assembly of the center channel along with the explanation of why the parts were chosen. In the Patreon video, the process used for picking the crossover values was covered. For Patrons, Nick tried several values and took measurements and asked the live viewers for their opinion. Patrons also could get the Rule Breaker build plans for free.
I think you've mastered being able to explain things in a simple way without talking to us like we are rodents. Your passion for this hobby really shows and I appreciate all of your efforts sharing your knowledge. Thanks!
Teaching is a skill on it own.. Truly a admirable one aswell.
I built a floorstanding pair with the exact 6.5" and 1" drivers in the example. Nice to see I know at least a little bit about what I'm doing.
Curious new members what did you think of that 6 1/2 inch?
@@Toid I'm quite pleased with it. Very detailed. Pairs well with that tweeter, which has quite a delicate touch. Can listen all day without any hearing exhaustion.
@@tradain that’s great to hear. I need to try that woofer sometime.
I was coming down here to look because I was considering this exact setup for my first diy build. Ill have to check them out if they're still available when I go to buy them lol
@@Toid I've made a bookshelf with the GF180 and the TD25F. Good combo for not much money... Goes down to 32hz.
It would be nice to see how to chose drivers for 3-way system. Do you have to match sensitivity?
I literally ordered a new subwoofer one and a half hours ago and I'd have liked to watch this video before.
Nice video. I'm new to your channel but old to diy loudspeakers.
A simple rule of thumb for driver size that generally works well is 13500/ diameter in inches. This will give you an approximate frequency where the driver dispersion will begin to beam and roll off, off axis.
One thing i might have missed is sensitivity. If you're designing a passive system, the woofer needs to be 3-6 db more efficient than your desired average spl to compensate for baffle step, which is the frequency where the wave becomes bigger than the baffle and the enclosure isn't pushing it into the room as efficiently. This happens anywhere between 200- 800 hz depending on the baffle dimensions. Typically the large inductor on the woofer is used to create a falling response as frequency increases to compensate for this at lower frequencies. If you have a narrow enclosure and don't account for this, the bass/midbass will be thin and the speaker will sound extremely forward. My first good quality speaker had this problem, so i learned the hard way.
I did the same mistake. High end real piano clear speakers, so much work. I used though 2* 8" Dayton Rs225.
Guy who designed crossover did good job, but it was real headache to get woofet and midbass blend well. I used side mounted woofer. So baffle is there ca 45 cm
Adding subwoofer might help?
@@rinx34 It's so disappointing, I know too well. I used 2 6-1\2" Vifa midbasses and a good Morel tweeter. The mids and highs were beautiful, the speaker was very detailed and dynamic, but it had to have active eq to be listenable.
I love the way you explain the issues and solutions in your videos. You're really good at that. I tried hexibass but I can't keep up. I don't know. Maybe I'm dumb. But when you explain things I'm smart again. 😂 Thanks for these great videos
Excellent video - I appreciate the blend of simple steps combined with technical considerations.
I can't tell you how helpful that really was. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Is there something to be aware of if I search a suitable coax driver for a TL enclosure?
Excellent explanations and really useful to me as I'm considering a build using Dayton ND13 tweeters, which are ½" and thus definitely an unconventional choice. Unconventional choices should always be a yellow flag to a beginner, as it usually means we're overlooking something. In this case I think it's okay, as it's a 4-way system with DSP, crossing to ND65s (2½" midrange that measure more like 2" drivers) at 4.5kHz, and then to dedicated midbass -> subbass drivers. That gives me latitude not economically feasible for most commercial systems, but this video gives me a little more confidence and understanding of the design track I'm going down. Also, welcome reminder of the rule of thumb to cross over an octave above fs. Thank you.
Very well delivered! I’m planning on my first speaker build in 30 years and this video was extremely helpful! I just subbed your channel and I’m gonna start looking through your back catalog.
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you for this Video, i never knew about this topic in speaker selection before
Can we do a video on how to mini DSP eq a subwoofer?
I'm curious about building a transmission line or some such out of tiny smartphone speaker drivers any thoughts or interest in doing a project like that yourself?
easily the BEST video on the subject on Earth!! :-))) tanx! sooo...if one finds "abandoned" pro stage speakers (ie: Peavey), should one use them as-is, or build the drivers/x-over into a "better" box? I've many, and they are HUGE and HEAVY!! :-))) what would you speaker-folks do with similar, please?
Hello,
Can you suggest speakers, woofer and the rest for 5.1 home theater system to build by myself? Thanks in advance
@Toid i have a question, if you double the fs to get your crossover frequency for a tweeter, does the same rule apply for any driver, of any size, playing any frequency range?
Excellent dissertation on basic driver selection and thank you!
Great video Nick! This would have been a huge help to me like a year ago.
really great video but for woofers of brands other than Dayton on partsexpress the frequency response just has one black line, so how do I determine dispersion, crossover points and all that? please help
Nice video! Great simple advice on how to use the parameters. Any chance you could do a video on the different materials for woofers and tweeter comparing their pros and cons, i.e. Textreme vs paper vs glass woven and beryllium vs Textreme vs soft dome etc?
Ok, I understand the basic theory when looking at speakers. If picking drivers, and figuring out what works or does not work is difficult for a two or three way system, why not go with a 4 way system? Is it really difficult to add that extra driver in the crossover?
At what point are you using too many drivers at once? Space becomes a concern, budget, electronics, and you have to manage it all so one driver doesn't step over everything else. It's not really convenient, though it can be done.
Let's say I have a pair of interesting speaker boxes, but the drivers used for those speakers where specific made, so How should I know what might suit well, as drivers, for those boxes? Thank you!
I know it's probably too late 6 months later, but just in case it isn't or someone else needs it, I went through this exact scenario myself as the drivers in my vintage speakers began to fail. What you would do in this case is start by finding the interior volume of the box, and the port tuning if ported, as closely as you can. Then you hunt woofers that suit the boxes you have based on the internal box volume and tuning. After that you pick the woofer you like and find your tweeter based on crossover frequency as laid out in this video. Then you get to make crossovers, yay! Lol. Worked out very well for me, super satisfied with the results.
What about impedance? Should you not ensure the imp is the same for each of the drivers?
Have you considered building a rtj 410? I would love to build a few of those.
I wish one of the ways you could "sort by" on parts express was by QTS
This video is breakthrough for me. I have been trying to understand this thing for over a month 😅
Excellent!!! Do you have a video on crossovers? Are store bought from a reputable source okay to use or do we always need to custom design using software? Many thanks...
For tweeter cross-over frequency, I have read that you must do 30db down in power level at FS. So the crossover point will be different depending on the crossover order.
What is FS?
Nice, i kinda like Scan speak speakers and a poly cone
But i learned a few things i never thought of looking at.
Subwoofer, I'd look at car audio speakers so are the Dayton speakers very good never used one.
Hello I have a Technics SU-V75 STEREO. I'm looking to replace the original speakers and was curious what would be the best fit. Came with SB-2665 cabinet.
Hey guys, pretty new to the scene. If your woofer is 8ohm and your tweeter is 4 ohm, does this change the frequency response of the crossover? Or when wiring do you just have to supply each with their respective voltage?
I´ve watched so many videos about how to build a crossover and so but almost no one was talking about what you did here :S should´ve seen this like 2 years ago
Great explanation, but the tweeters with the lower crossover points have lower power handlings. I have a 5.25" signature woofer with the DC25T-8 tweeter and the 3K is killing me but i'll have to "DSP" it out
You are a fantastic Trainer, I feel privileged to be your student
What's a good replacment for Sony sscs5 ? something that has more bass than stock
A good rule of thumb as to what frequency to crossover at is one octave from the driver's limit. For example, a tweeter with a frequency response of 2,000Hz-18KHz, should be HIGH PASS filtered at 4,000Hz.
With a 12dB/octave HP filter at 4KHz, a tweeter playing at 100dB will see 88dB at 2KHz, 76dB at 1,000Hz, 64dB at 500hz, 52dB at 250Hz and so on.
A steeper slope on the roll-off helps greatly if you play your music loud.
With a 24dB/octave filter at 4KHz, playing at 100dB, that same tweeter would only see 76dB at 2KHz, 52dB at 1,000Hz, 28dB at 500Hz, etc.
This helps so much. Thank you.
this video helps a lot, but i have a question, what about the impedance and sensitivity of the speakers, and even the power, i have a lot of questions, how the power is distributed between the woofer and the tweeter? thanks for the great content :)
You use a crossover
That’s a great question. A crossover will distribute the power among the drivers and an L-pad will lower the sensitivity of the driver if needed. Those are all concepts that would be in another video. Although this is Steve, with the drivers could’ve been talked about in this video.
@@Toid amazing, thanks for the information. Ill be waiting for the next videos, and maybe start building my own speaker in the Future 😃
How will it be to use that 5/8" tweeter in a 3 way bookshelf system with 6.5 tang Band and some 3" mid driver ?!?
We dont have parts express in the UK, or anything like it
Do I have to tune to parts expresses recommended tuning frequency? Or can I tune below? I have built many speakers and they aren’t terrible but for example, I would use a 3-4 inch full range and the fs would be somewhere around 110, the recommended tuning frequency would be 90, but in the same box size I could tune it to 60-65 and be relatively flat, or atleast that’s what winisd tells me, but is it bad to do this?
You can tune below. What you will find out is that even you tune really low you will have cone excursion problems with less power. Shay’s check it excursion graph of your driver with the desired wattage you’d use.
Really good info. Appreciated!
Hi, is there a follow up video?
Thank you so much, gold information
Is it possible or okay to use a full range driver as midbass/midrange in a 2 way speaker like (tweeter+full range)? thanks.....
Yes. In fact I did it in the Dinas build.
Hello mate. I have a pair of celestion ditton 44 mk 2 empty cabinets 26" high. 13" deep. 12" wide. I'm putting 2 x 7" Dayton audio Rs180p woofers with 2x 10" passive radiators. Do you think they'll sound ok ? Thanks in advance from London
Hey Nick, nice video. But I have a bit of an overlap of experience coming from years of Car Audio. I'm a 25 hz port Tuning and even lower tunings kinda guy (low and windy :D ) and finally want to build my own 2.1 home system for moderate music listening, but LOTS of headroom for DEEP and clear bass. I feel like going with a 15 inch ported OR... 10 inch quarter wave transmission line. I have lots of space for that.
Any thoughts on this? I would need a chassis with an Fs around 28 hz, I reckon.
Greetings from Germany!
PS: I currently run a B2 HN15 in a 5 ft³ net vented box tuned to 25 hertz on .5 ohms at around 4 kilowatts, of course that's way too extreme for home use, but on low volumes it sounds AMAZING. I want that but less violent, lol.
I'd like to know how to choose a full-range speaker for a single driver speaker design.
It can be as simple as finding one you like and building an enclosure that suits.
Some things to think about:
-intended use (rock or large orchestra need more powerful bass, acoustic small ensemble can get away with a smaller driver that will be less of a compromise in other ways).
-cabinet size. Back loaded horns can help efficiency and low end but are large.
-Flatness of frequency response.
-true full range or extended range midbass with a supplemental woofer and or tweeter? There are benefits to both approaches.
From a practical standpoint, based on my experience, a 3" full range with a woofer added for enhanced low end is pretty great: Small enough to really do a nice job with mid and treble but using a woofer to give adequate low end. It's a good compromise and can be implemented fairly easily either actively biamped or with a passive crossover.
There are so many options, and it's one of the easier ways to get your feet wet with diy and have good results.
Look at the Dayton RS100P-4.
Hey my friend I've been following you for a long time and I think you have very good knowledge on speakers and I need your help if you can I would appreciate it I need to build 2 speakers to go to Mexico in an audiofile competition the speaker has to be one sub 4 drives and 2 tweaters am very good at building the box but I have a problem with deciding what speaker I should use on this project the sub woofer the 4 drivers and the 2 tweaters and btw if you can help me let me know what's the program do you use to build the cross over ? Thank you you are very appreciated
How about some info on horns?
Thank you so much for sharing.
Good stuff man🤓
super helpful
Thanks a lot
nice explanation thanks
Bottom line, every driver has a sweet spot in the frequency range where it can play the best sound. What you want is that the combination of the woofer and the tweeter to cover as much of the 20-20kHz of human audible frequency with their sweet spot.
If two drivers can't cover the range you want, you can always add more drivers to widen the range.
that was an awesome video, thank you very much
The sensitivity of both woofer and tweeter should be nearly same? Or tweeter sensitivity should be higher??
We didn’t really talk about that in this video. But the tweeter should at least be the same as woofer if not higher. It’s much easier to attenuate to attenuate the tweeter.
@@Toid thanks a lot for the clarification!!! 😊😊
@@audfrknaveen2256 you’re welcome. It’s probably something I should’ve went over in this video, so I appreciate question
Hi, I want to Upgrade some Dayton bookshelf speakers “B562-Air”. They have a 1-inch Mini ATM tweeter and 6.5-inch woofer. I want to upgrade the crossovers at least but maybe the speakers too ?……Is it worth it or NOT ? They are rated for 40-watts but My AVR is 100watts per channel so I would like them to support 100watts at least or maybe 80watts. What do you think ? Is this possible and worth it or is it better to just build all New Speakers ? I don’t need Base heavy speakers because I have a 12-inch subwoofer. I use these as Surround in my home theater but I notice when I play music in stereo they can’t handle allot of wattage. So they need a better woofer setup in the bookshelf speaker.
I love this video. However, the problem I have with a lot of audio channels/forums is that they always talk about more or less the perfect set up. Like pull the speakers away from the wall or choose speaker X for the best midrange, etc. The reason this is a problem, is that people who are into this, prioritize the quality of what they are listening to. I wish that I could do this. But I have to live in the real world, where I don't have a dedicated room for this. I also have to use my home theater system to do double duty for listening to music. I don't have a wife that is willing to walk around a speaker pulled away from the wall on a stand to get to the bathroom. I have a room with 3-ish walls (sliding glass door) and an open-to-the-kitchen-at-the-back layout. It's not a small room really, but it's not big enough to accommodate a couch, a chair, an entertainment center and a bunch of speakers on stands around the room. I am forced to put them on the wall up high or perhaps in the ceiling . In this event, I really need to know the dispersion of the speaker in the vertical axis as well as the horizontal axis. Hell, I would be happy if someone would just do some videos on how to lay things out with different room configurations. Can you help?
Why shouldn't the tweeter be used with a lower crossover point even though it has a flat response?
You want as little of the frequencies that driver cant really produce going into it. Less energy going in, less ways for stuff to go wrong.
What happens if you put your woofer in a bigger than recommended space?
Great googling! Damage, huh makes sense. I just thought the bass would be weak.
It will play lower frequencies, but it will sound weaker overall, you will loose lots of output by trying to play few lower notes and it will move way more, so driver can be damaged by going above its Xmax.
My problem is, I have the box, I don’t want to make or buy a new one, 8 inch sub, 5 inch mid, and 1 inch tweeter, so I have to stay near those sizes
Have you ever used a ribbon and a silk tweeter in a project? I'm going to experiment here, but beforehand I would like to know if you already tried this... I have ZERO experience on making speakers, I'm just adventuring myself for the first time.
People go nuts for ribbon tweeters. Many ribbons won't play low enough to cross over to a dynamic wooder or even midrange in the 3 way.
I'm building a set of loud speakers with these components to be installed into 11.25 cuft box 18x18x60 4 JBL SELENIUM ST 400 TWEETERS, 2 JBL SELENIUM 8" M PRO MIDS, 2 12" JBL SELENIUM PRO WOOFERS, AND 1 15" JBL PR-15 PASSIVE RADIATOR IN A SEALED BOX AND WAS WONDERING WHAT CROSSOVER SET UP WOULD LET ME DRIVE THIS AT 6 OHMS. I AM WANTING THE GOOD SOLID BASS THAT I GOT FROM MY NORMAN LAB 9'S THAT I HAD BEFORE THEY WERE STOLEN, I HAVE A SET OF KLIPSH TOWER SPEAKERS WITH 12" POLK SUB WOOFERS BUT I DON'T GET THAT FULL RANGE RICH SOUND THAT THE NORMAN LAB 9'S GAVE
Thank You. World expanded:)
Have you ever toyed with designing and building a set of in-wall speakers?
Go with ATCs
Just discovered your channel and it's most informative. I just picked up a pair of Jamo GF 25 old school speakers that take me back to my teenage years with my Technics gear. I also run a pair Jamo 707i and 507i with a 12" M & K sub. I am a fan of the warm sound of the Danish speakers and I am having a crazy idea to build some speakers out of our local hardwood timbers. Your thoughts on drivers? Happy to fling a few bucks for your thoughts
Parts Express tells me that coupon code has expired.
Thank you. I'm looking into it.
The code is working again. Thank you for letting me know it wasn’t working
It’s a terrible match for other reasons but, you might address the sensitivity problem using the 12” woofer with the 5/8” tweeter WRT the sensitivity difference being in the wrong direction. Unless you’re adding in biamping or an autoformer as a means of dealing with it.
The sensitivity isn't an issue, with the 5/8" and 12" woofer. The woofer is 91db sensitivity, but once we take into account baffle step (between 5-6db loss) you are below the 88db of the tweeter. Having said that, sensitivity will be a whole another video, as that opens a whole lot more to think about. This is really just designed for the first few things you should look at. As the videos progress, a deeper understanding will develop.
Can you build a Home theater 7 speaker setup for under $1000 ( Bookshelf speakers and Center channel ) I think this is the holy grain for many peoples. Home theater enthusiasts want more for $1000 than cheap Klipsch speakers but you know they don’t want to spend allot of money. A good Home Theater setup that Sounds great for Movies and Music. Many peoples live in small houses and the Average TV room in USA is probably about 12x12 feet. With Wood frame walls. So you don’t need MASSIVE Speakers to SHAKE the Entire house. I think most Peoples are looking for a Balanced Natural sound that is EASY on the EARS for hours of listening Enjoyment. Many Peoples have low powered AVR with 70-to-100 watts per channel. What do you think ?……I think Home theater enthusiast are looking for the Right Balance in Sound Quality, Bookshelf Speaker Size, and Costs.
I found for budget home theatre you can use decent Car speakers in a custom cabinet for good results :)
Remember car speakers are made with off axis in mind, so my home theatre has no sweet spots it is one
I’m more beginner than that
Same here😂
Purifi 6.5 Woofers... and SB Acoustics Satori BE Tweeters =)
ASMR
You should (in my opinionen) make the assumption that I am a beginner that dont even speak the same language as yourself.. Just saying 🙄🙄, jk. Thanks for upload.. Apreciate. Pz
First
Woo hoo! Killing it!
@@Toid 😆😆😆, The speaker that you were going to build with the new horn is only available for patrons ? Or you didn't get to it yet? It would be nice a video explaining what you get with patron subscription. Thanks for the video BTW.
@@TexasCorgiGun that video is still coming. It’s not finished yet. I don’t usually do build videos specifically for patrons. But they do get access to the build plans when they come out. And we typically do crossover design live on the new builds.
@@TexasCorgiGun Patron videos tend to be more of the technical aspects of the build that don't fit into the regular videos. For example, in the "Rule Breaker" build, everyone could see the fab & assembly of the center channel along with the explanation of why the parts were chosen. In the Patreon video, the process used for picking the crossover values was covered. For Patrons, Nick tried several values and took measurements and asked the live viewers for their opinion. Patrons also could get the Rule Breaker build plans for free.
@@danrussell9357 Thanks for the info
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Is there something to be aware of if I search a suitable coax driver for a TL enclosure?