@@h2omechanic Thank you for the video and the reply. Sorry for this long-winded response, but thank you if you can assist me and anyone else in a similar situation. Trying to diagnose if it's a faulty check valve at the submersible pump or crack in well pipe at pump or on the line coming into house without pulling pump since we're still in the negative temperatures here in interior Alaska and 100 miles from the nearest well drilling specialist. Cannot see if there's any water spots on ground outside from well casing to the house, since we're under several feet of snow and ice for a few more months (usually thaws in April/May, with water not fully soaking into ground/evaporating until June/July). I can visually see the water rushing back down the well pipe via the whole house water filter with clear canister installed just after the well pipe that leads into crawlspace from underground (pre-expansion tank). The canister will drain down to less than 25% water and fill up with air approximately 75%. This happens after the water pressure drops from 50 down to 30 psi when using water and the pressure switch kicks on at that time. Pressure tank is set at 28 psi. There's a second check valve right before the expansion tank/pressure switch, so harder to diagnose since the gauge doesn't lose pressure over time because that check valve prevents pressure drop and is working. After the pressure tank water is exhausted and pressure is down to 28 psi the faucets start sputtering with air and spurts of water, and then several seconds later the water will rush back into the filter canister from the well pipe along with a bunch of air bubbles (delay of water filling canister). Once the water visually fills the filter canister again very rapidly, the water at faucets will continue sputtering before releasing brown sediment, and this takes approximately 20-30 seconds to clear up. Once the sputtering stops, a few more seconds pass before the sediment clears, and then the water is clear and the pressure tank starts building pressure again to 50 psi. This cycle repeats every time the pressure switch calls for water, and there has ALWAYS been water hammer once the pump cut off (the well pipe to crawl space will shake, and it has a foam "pool noodle" sleeve around it to deaden the noise). Been this way since we bought the home and didn't come up during inspection. Well and well pump installed 2019 when home built. Given the sediment that gets washed up every time, I was leaning towards a semi-educated guess/DIY diagnosis of a crack in the well pipe right above the pump, since that would create a water swirl that stirs up sediment that is getting sucked back into the pump and eventually the pump fills with enough water to overcome the air in the pipe and comes racing back up. After finding your video, now I'm wondering if it could be the check valve at the pump being bad. Again, sorry for the long drawn out reply/description. In your experience, has a bad check valve at the pump caused something similar? I.e. air in the well pipe, followed by sediment brown water before clearing again, only to repeat again, every time? Or do all signs point to a cracked pipe? Thanks again for reading. I know time is valuable.
@@h2omechanic I think my check valve is leaking so I'm going to add one just before the pressure tank. Will that usually get them to stop back leaking?
@@mickjager5974 no. Itll actually cause an air pocket to form in the line when the pump leaks down. Every morning itll cycle & send a small burst of air into the tank. The only (half a$$) way to fix it easy is to add a check valve directly at the top of the well. But it still may cause the air issue, just less bc it takes the "trench pipe" out of the equation in regards to the drain back. I'd consider it a band-aid, but 100% will stop the cycling. If you notice air during a shower or flush a toilet, now you'll understand why this happened.
I subbed and rang the bell ...love the practical info for the novice ... I'm a 66 yr old retired builder who cut his teeth in the golf course irrigation business 40 years ago ... so I know a bit about wells and plumbing ... bought an old historic house to restore 6 years ago ... no info on well and the service guy never returned my calls with history ... 3 years later, no water one morning, simple diagnostic, 30 year old controller circuit board fried (Franklin 3 wire) ... simple fix ....then 3 years later, last week no water, controls good, pressure switch good ... both red and black (230 had power down into the casing) ... checked OHM reading for 1/2 hp, it was twice the specs, so bad motor ... called 5 well guys, only 1 returned my call (prior service guy) said he was booked out 5 weeks and said it would be $2,500 to pull and new pump ... so I looked at the dog the next morning and said, hey, we're going to be Well Guys ... eastern PA right on the Delaware River, 60 ft above it, so I know pump could not be that deep ... good quality sanitary seal, 1 1/4 poly with good brass fittings ... pulled the pump by hand, dog was no help and he's a 100 lb cart dog (bouvier des flandres) but he was supportive (from the shade) ... half way up (40 ft) I saw the wires were severely chaffed/open, corroded copper showing ... finally got the pump out and checked Ser # manufacture date ... 1987, 1/2 hp Franklin Electric with a Morris pump ... motor case was weeping rust .... Damn thing was 32 years old, 3 wire, red/black/yellow, wires were that old as well ... figured they didn't owe anyone anything (although house was a summer home for 60 years and empty for 20 of those last years before I bought it from their eastate (elderly couple) so it didn't have a lot of "run time" ... I did make up a double male garden hose and attached to my nice elderly neighbor next door, so I have water (I do a lot of "fixing and favors" for him and his wife, so he was glad to help out there .... so good news is I had watched all your well videos, so I ordered online, a good 3/4 HP Flint Walling pump and 100 ft of new 10 ga wire and WP splicing kit (local supplier only had 2 wire F&W's) ... and even found that 3M self sealing silicon tape on amazon (came today) got 6 rolls for $15 ... I was going to replace the torque arrestor and wire guards and rig a safety line until I watch your video ... and I agree, way too much stuff down a well casing to get stuck or go wrong ... So I'm only going with the pump, additional 1 1/4 brass check valve, and well taped wires (pump is at 80 ft, so easy to pull) ... Franklin controller was new 3 yr ago and well as new breaker/cut out switch, new pressure switch, pressure gauge and expansion tank, new spin down filter, followed by double GE Carbon filters ... all new Pex throughout the house ... anyway, long winded, but wanted to thank you for the tip on going with a "Clean" install without all the questionable "add on's" that could cause future trouble ... love that 3M self stick, self seal tape ... and I have 4 rolls of 3M Super "33" as well (your other tip) ... Pump and wire will be here tomorrow ... (I also took your idea and used an old cart wheel rim and build a small wood frame over my 5 ft deep well pit to support and guide the poly pipe on the way out (and back in) .. best of luck to you in your business ... you'll do well (no pun intended) with your logical and professional approach ...
Hello. Very in formative.👍 I have SOME air in my lines. Bled pressure tank and bladder has 27lbs on 30/50 switch. Pressure with water appears to be holding. Pump was replaced 18 yrs ago with sched 80 pvc feed line I believe in casing. I know it was plastic. I’m thinking there may be a crack at the pump. The well is 54’ deep pump is set at 50’ static is 37’. Do you think the pump or fittings are the culprit. How difficult is it to pull if that’s what you think needs to be done
Having a lot of air in my system. Not so much on the cold side. Mostly the hot. Air comes and goes. Sometimes no air for a couple of days. Pump is cycling as it should even though its 40 years old. Any Ideas would be appreciated.
l'm interested in a property about 1000 miles away. He said it has a well but the pump don't work. Any suggestions? Should l have a plumber check it out or just go out there and deal with it and try and fix it myself?
I got low water pressure. Seemed to be gradually happening. Don’t seem to be the switch or the tank. My next step was to see if the galvanized lines after the pump are clogged. Losing my mind trying to figure out the problem. Any info would be appreciated at this point!
If you kill the power & the water psi gauge drops to 0 without you using any, that says that you have a bad pipe or fitting in the well with a hole in it. The hole slowly gets bigger & pressure gets weaker. This video is exactly what you will find.
Hi. My pump is a Tesla Ideal 2 and every few days or so it stops and come out with the code OL which means over load. We have pull the pump out and it doesn’t have that valve to stop the water coming back into the pump. Please advise if possible. Thanks
Buy a Simmons Check valve and put it on top of the pump. 1.25"x1"brass If its a new pump hopefully it's still good. Typically a OL happens & the motor is dying, so if the pumps old, replace it. I stay away from Tesla stuff imo. I'd buy a Goulds or J-class or Grundfos. If the Pump has a Franklin Electric motor on it, it's Quality! Cheap pump have short lives & don't lift from very deep. I did a Video on Amazon pumps showing just that.
My pump keeps running constantly I cant find anywhere where water would be leaking in the house and the ground is not wet where the supply line is running to the house. I manually disengaged pressure switch it was running at 52 psi and the pressure dropped to 30 with no faucets or anything running pressure switch came on pressure built pack up to 52 psi and pump stays running could it be a bad check valve?
Bad check valve would still allow switch to cut out & then cut back on. But your close! The fitting connector from pump to pipe has cracked or if metal its worn a hole in it. Time to pull out the pump & look for a crack or hole in the pipe & fittings. Itll be easy to spot.
Been subscribed for a couple months, watched a lot of videos. Asked questions 2 - 3 times, didn't get any response. Will keep trying. 😊 1) Thinking to put pressure tank and connect to the pump about 10' under the ground to eliminate heating well house in the winter season. A) is it a good idea? B) how to do it? C) Should I install another pressure tank under the house in the crawl space? Well is about 30 yards away from the house.
If you have a check valve at the tank, that's the key. The check valve at your tank is holding good, but the check valve in the pump is leaking. This allows the water in the pump pipe to slowly leak down creating a air pocket that gets sent to the house the next time the pump turns on. If I'm correct, the air will be worse in the morning & also when you use water after it sits off for hours. Pull the pump & add a Check valve on top of pump, or just replace the pump, its probably 10 years old at this point if the check is failing
Help. Pressure won't get over 25psi at the tank. Guage is on the Air Volume Control. Submersible pump constantly running. Seems to hold pressure when pump is shutoff. Has a check valve with ports for pressure switch and air valve between well head and tank. Could the check valve be bad?
@@h2omechanic Thanks. That's what it seems like. I put some pressure in with my air compressor and after the switch kicked off I could hear some gurgling at the well head, but tank pressure stayed steady.
Hi amazing video. Our pump pumps up to 20 psi when I turn the breaker off it does not drop down it just stays at 20 ; when I open the Spicket at the well it drops down to zero when I close the Spicket it goes back up to 20 what do you think the problem might be ? Thank you so much for your help !
Sounds to me like the pumps old & worn out or possible cracked pipe in well. Or a leak in yard or under home. If u find no leaks, the pump needs to be pulled out of the well
Very helpful, I have been having air, low pressure in my water, mostly in the hot for whatever reason, I had a plumber come out, he said it was the Well, I called a Well company they said it is inside the house and that there was nothing wrong with the well, to call a plumber, I called another plumber they said it was the water heater, switched it, still have the same issue, came back today says its likey the connections from the well to the house. They are coming back Monday to run pressure test on the connection, what do you think, So far I have spent $1700, still have the problem. I was quoted $450 for the test on Monday. I have shorts on the issue on my channel for reference.
I,m in texas I covered the well, turned the power off to the water we ll,drained the pipes before we left town for a couple of days. Came home turned the water on and water came shooting out of the vent. Any suggestions ?????????
Hey I been researching to buy new line for the well water supply 200 psi.. well to pressure tank where can I buy and what type of line or brand name thanks…
H2o machanic, i watched your vids for a while. In alaska, and long way from a well man when they come arround 125 to 225 miles away. They normally like to stack jobs to justify trip in. Moved into house with well and off CITY water.. I was told the well was 240 foot deep, i dont know the static depth. And of course no well log with the house. The pump runs it will build pressure to 32 to 45 psi. When running depending which guage i use. Running 30- 50 pressure switch. The pressure tank when empty rings like bell and light. The pressure at the schrader valve read 32, lowered to 29psi. Still no effect... Watched couple other vids. Barrowed amp meter reads 6amps on both power legs on start up and run. There is 120 on each leg of power and the load side 240 when on. We can turn off the breaker, water will hold all night untill tank is empty of may be 6 to 10 gals (60 gal tank). We turn the pump on with the breaker and water is back, but the pump will not raise it to the high limit. The pump will run untill i go and open the contacts mannually.. then again if circut left on , water flows unill low limit kicks pump on. Then repeat. I dont know how old the pump is. House was partially used last few years. The well was run dry a few years ago during a summer pressure washing. But it functioned for the next few years. Winters comming would like to get it fixed before snow hits in six to eight weeks.... my wife likes showers and like her..
I am having an issue where my water will shuddering out of the faucets pretty violently every now and then, as if there is water in the line. Any idea what could be putting water in my system? Where is a good place to start?
I'm currently having difficulties with our pump. This happens alot when it's dry season but this time around it's so bad. The water pumps at insanely low pressure and isn't stable. Yesterday I tried filling a bucket with the water from the pump and it took almost 10 minutes. Normally it should take 20 seconds at most to fill. Could it be there's a hole in a pipe somewhere?
Do all pumps come with a check valve, or is it something added in special circumstances? Second question, where is the bottom of the casing in relation to the pump? ie does the pump extend out the bottom of the casing, or is the pump protected inside the casing to prevent it from rocking and damaging itself or plugging up against adjacent rock and mud?
Yes hello, just replaced a 3 hp Franklin submersible motor because my Gould motor seized up only 2 years on line.we kept thegould pump figuring that at only 2 years of service that would be ok,we also replaced the Franklin electric. control box. I now have two problems. 1- get only app. 12 lbs.of pressure at holding tank so sprinklers are hardly spraying.We check pressure at pump location and still only had 30 lbs. 2- at the control box there is 350 volts between the red and black and 245 between yellow and black which makes no sense to me because the elec. service coming into main breaker 1phase 120 - 240 volts. Please help if you can. Thanks
Great video, I think I have a bad pump but I have to check for a leak too. The air tank had pressure and the switch/pressure gauge are only a year old. But it only pressurizes to 35 psi, seems like a pump thing.
argh~ i'd pull my hair out if I had any left. On well water via aerator tank. Experiencing air in the system. Pressure gauge (located after the check valve) always holds steady when water is not being drawn. (40/60 pressure valve) Pressure tank, 32gal, bladder checks "ok" after depressurizing system (37 psi). Visual inspection fails to identify any water leakage yet, turn on the shower or sink faucet and, shortly thereafter, comes clear signs that there is air in the system. Also, have purged every water outlet my house (both internal and external). Oh, did i mention.. AAARRGGHHH!!!!!!
Hey h2o mechanic! Been watching a bunch of your videos. We have a scenario where we are sitting around 16psi, pump is drawing 6amps constantly, pressure tank won’t fill. It’s a submerged pump and popping the top we see water about 15 feet down (previous professional had mentioned well was drying up, which doesn’t make sense). We are unsure if this is pressure tank problem, pump problem, or possible well issue. Any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
Your channel saved the bacon for me today. Lost water pressure last night at 10pm, had it solved by this afternoon. Long story short, 280' deep, new pump and wiring
@@h2omechanic no doubt, your explanations were simple to understand, and the knowledge you shared saved me a couple thousand bucks I'm sure.. my brother is an electrician, so that helped some lol
Monday sept 23rd I was doing some plumbing in my house and I had to turn off the pump several times so I go to turn the power to the pump and I had the garden hose on and the sink faucets on to get water out of lines , I go to pump house and the pressure tank is making like surging sounds, so I turn the power switch off again, I drain the tank and check the pressure in the tank with a pressure gauge and zero pressure, I turn it back on and it’s making noise and like surging, but I have 38 lbs of pressure on the gauge, I turn the sink and hose off for a bit , then I turn the hose on and it’s working for about 3 mins and water stops coming out? The tank is still reading 38 lbs I don’t know what to do? Maybe you know what it is? Please help
My circuit breaker keeps tripping in about 2min time even though I tested the breaker, replaced the pressure switch and I believe the tank is still good. I would appreciate any thoughts that you might have. Thanks in advance!
I have replaced everything minus the pump. I’m getting water for approximately 10 mins and I loose pressure. I was told the pump is going Thermal coupler was going out. That even though it was in the water, when it got hot it would shut it down. If I let it wait 1520 minutes it will run again for a short period of time before I lose pressure. Does that sound like that is correct, this is for sprinkler system
@@h2omechanic I’m in GA but this happened before the drought. Also looking at my new pressure gauge it fills back up quickly . I have replaced the control panel, water bladder, and pressure switch, filters, ext. all zones are free and clear
@h20 mechanic I got an issue. Deepened my well 1 yr ago and still having issues. Pumped silt and sand for 6 mo. Still a little comes through. Pump 30ft off bottom of well. Had the well line replaced a month ago now can not keep enough pressure to run the yard sprinklers. Took switch apart clean and functioning correct, gage says pressue 55-75 pump kicks on and off. I have 4- 70 gal pressure tanks and all new 2" pex for everything b4 comes into house. Sprinklers T off b4 running into house? 5 horse 3phase pump at 190ft? What could be reason I am not maintaining water pressure?
Amazing video, great job, subscribed! I have air coming into the house water lines only after I haven't used the water for a while, like overnight, and only when it first comes on. If I keep the water flowing, like when outside water my plants, I don't have additional air in the lines (even after the pump kicks on again). Thinking this might be a crack in the well pipe which allows air in while the pump is at rest (water leaking out over time), perhaps somewhere above the water line. Does that make sense to you? I plan to pull the pump and check. Thanks for any advice.
Your on the right track! It's probably not a crack...but could be. It's typically a leaking check valve in the pump. If you have a check valve at the tank or at the top of the well, then that ones holding pressure back & the one in the pump is leaking slowly. If the pumps old, just replace it honestly. Or if it's less than 8 years old, add a check valve on top of your pump & re install! Your definitely in the right direction!
I have trouble with my well pump. Somehow, the pump shorts out and doesn't get electricity when it is hanging normally. The pump comes back online only if I pull up the wire maybe a foot up, therefore making the wires tighter. At that pulled up position, it works fine until my iron removal system regenerates/backwashes... I had two companies stop by, and they just offer to replace the well pump which will cost ~$10,000. Do you have any suggestions on troubleshooting this? Thanks so much for your expertise and your time!!
Thank you for this information, we just lost pressure at home. I checked the tank, swith and still no pressure went outside to see if something was visible and there was all the water around the well gushing out bringing sand out to the grass..
My water slows then stop's after 5 minutes or so, for 30s to a minute or so, then comes back on for a while and may do the same thing again . I replaced the pressure switch. Air in tank is 38lbs. Switch shows power going to pump but pump not pumping, then it pumps for a short time and pressure reads 40lbs will come pack on a short time later. Is it a low water issue???. Thanks
Help! New pressure switch, relay, and capacitor. Pressure tank holding 37 psi without fail. Water comes on until pressure reaches low end and then drops out. Pressure gage on pipe goes to 0. Sometimes it recovers quick, other times not.
I’m having a issue where my pump won’t give me the same GPM when I turn my hose bib on I get good pressure and after the pressure switch kicks in the pump does not give me the constant pressure like it can’t keep up slows down also and takes pressure from the house to nothing I have a grizzly red jacket pump 1/2 HP 120 volt pump. Installed new 20 gallon tank and 40/60 pressure switch also any ideas I know this is a lot
I have a pump with good pressure tank, air in pressure tank is set at 38lbs. Installed new switch 40/60. Installed new gauge. Pump will come on and run for a minute or two, then pressured starts to drop till there is no water. Then about 5-10 minutes later pump will come back on and run again for two minutes. New gauge will never read above 35lbs, even if water is off. What would cause this? Undersized pump? Broken line in well? Need some help before I pull pump and replace. Any suggestions? Thanks
We have a deep well pump, when my wife starts shower, I hear water and what sounds like air surging in lines as well, possibly sounds like cavitation. Using pressure washer is surge of water, wait for pressure to build then more water. Don't know what pipe we have, seeing your broken pipes, was a help. The motor torque twists the lines. We hv high rust, don't know how old pump is.
Put in a new pump, tank, pressure switch, control box. Will pressure up 40-60 and run for about 15 min then water flow comes down to a drip, but then will kick back up for a few minutes. Any ideas
A 2hp water pump stopped pushing out water because of low voltage,after it was rectified, it stops pushing out water,don't actually know the cause of problem?
Our old 0.75hp water pump for shallow well stops pushing water at around 3-5 minutes, but after a seconds of unplugging it and then re-plugging it again, it pushes water up to the tank for the same time frame of 3-5 minutes. We tried a new water pump 1hp but doesn't even push water up to the tank. What could be the problem?
In my problem the 24 volt screw pump is working in the bucket of water. But once put in the well it doesn't push any water out. What could be the problem?
I had a minor water leak in a pipe under my house, I got the leak repaired and ever since I’ve had a HUGE amount of air coming from my well. Plumber said the leak could have cause my check valve to go bad from running constantly. Have you ever had this issue?
I’m having a problem with air getting in my system, I turned off main valve in the house and water pressure between pump and bladder tank drop and I don’t see any leaks in the house. I’m totally confused as to how I’m getting air. Can you help? Thanks
Hi am Julian and thank you for this video. My Franklin water cylinder have no pressure and the motor cylinder gets hot when switching ON. Please help me.
Last year my pump ran fine. This year, none of the zones would come on. The pump is running and the hydrant at the pump discharges water but with very low pressure. I can put my thumb on the hydrant and stop the flow. I bought a cheap pump two or three years ago and I’m wondering if I got what I paid for. When it turn on my system, all the heads dribble water. Kind of at a loss here. Think the pump wore itself out?
Standard in my area is 100 psi poly pipe. Wish the standard was higher. I can't even install a cycle stop valve because back pressure would exceed 100 psi
When my well pump is pumping (filling the tank ) water is also coming out at the well head- The water at the well head stops- when the presser switch stops calling for water from the well pump.-Could it be my pipe to the pump has a crack ? ---10 22 22
Moved into a home and I get water for 10 min and then slowly lowers and then sputters and shoots out air really hard. It has an above ground pump. Anyway after sputtering then I'm out of water for around 12 to 19 minutes or so before the pressure is back and this cycle repeats So you can imagine how horrible a shower is during doing laundry Any tips?
My pump was sucking sand. I replaced it, but I'm scared that it suck up sand again. Do I shorten my pipe so that the pump lies above the sand? And, by how much length do I shorten it ?
I've got no water after a cold snap on a fixer upper property with some shoddy plumbing. The pressure tank appears to be fine, but its sitting at 22-23 PSI with a 30/50 switch and I don't have an air compressor right now. Pressure gauge that was already installed is busted so I can't get a reading off that. When I test the contacts on the pressure switch they spark but the submersible pump will not cycle. Around the well casing itself there is water pooled aboveground which I can guess is not good. Any help is appreciated I am totally inexperienced with wells.
Kill the power & see if the pressure drops to 0. If it does, then you should pull the pump and look for a busted pipe. An ice broke can make a pump dead head & itll bust the drop pipe.
Hi I just have my well pump stopped working. I checked everything and find one wire out of the three wires dose not work and no power. I pushed the two reset buttons and it started. But it has low pressure and it turns off every 4-8 hours. Should I replace a pump or the wires?
My water pressure is good as soon as you turn on the faucet, but slowly gets weaker and weaker. I am pretty sure the bladder and pressure switch are good. What do you think?
I have a shallow well and the pump is in my house, pressure runs 30/50 psi. I had a water drip on a 2 1/4 galv fitting going to the pump and replaced it along with a new union, now all i can get is 20 pounds psi and I took the pipes apart 3 time and put back together with different pipe dope and even with Teflon tape with no luck thinking i might have a suction leak..HELP
You have a air lock somewhere in the pipe. Thats the most common issue with jet pump. Air is a bitch to get out. Try to prime it with the valve barley open & slowly open it once it's running. This helps prevent cavitation.
When I turn on my water hose I just heat an air sound. Please, Give me advice. I’ve had someone out here like 6 times and it’s still not running properly.
I bought a house recently that has spring water into a holding tank, from there it is pumped into the house. Since the power has been turned on the water will only run for roughly a minute and then shuts off completely. After 30 seconds to a minute it comes back on for another minute or so...system has new pressure switch installed...what could this be?
Hey my water cut off on Saturday night and I can’t get it back on .. I replaced the switch and it’s getting power, but when I plug in the switch nothing happens . Showing 0 pressure in the tank , well and pump are only 7 years old but we have a lot iron in our water ..you think the pump is toast already ?
Pump is likely bad or wire going down to the pump is bad/broken/ wire jacket rubbed off & exposed the copper wire inside. The pump has a 10-12 year life normally. But a deep set 1hp pump at 300-400ft has a 7 year life span typically.
My sinks, toilets and shower are violently blowing air with the water and occasionally the water is really dirty. I fill my air tank and then run the water. After about a minute it goes back to normal but when the pressure gets low again it starts back up ... thoughts good sir?
Last year my pressure tank was dry cycling several times- each time I would drain the system and would provide relief for a month or so before doing it again. Pin pointed it (or so I thought) to a bad pressure tank and just installed it along with new lines and pressure switch. When turning the breaker on the system would pressurize; but whenever we open the faucet, the pressure immediately dumps to 0psi. What is going on here?
There's way too much air in the tank for your size switch. Setting air pressure in the tank is critical. If you have a 40/60 switch, go let 15 seconds of air from the tank. Then try it, & repeat until it acts normal. Or watch my tank videos on how to set it . Its 2psi below the switch "on" # Power must be off & no water in tank while setting air pressure
i replaced my pressure tank, pressure switch almost 3 months ago and everything was fine but today. had to kick pressure switch on had water but when it was used it didnt kick back on when useing washing machine...but when i turned the pressure switch back on it showed no pressure on guage so i waited about 25 min and tried again it showed on pressure switch..the pump is 14 years old
The average pump life is 12 years. So you pump is probably over heating after a little run time & cools off & runs again. Time to replace the pump most likely
Hi there. So my pump has shot off the end of the line a few times we changed the fitting to a metal one and now there's no water so we replaced the switch. Still nothing so now it's pulled out and I'll look at all the pipe and wire but it shows power to control box and the switch. It's only 30 feet and the pump was changed in September of last year.
My pressure is fine but I have air blasting out with my water. I get a mixture of air and water and it blasts out like high pressure. Outside it will jerk a water hose out of your hands when the air comes thru
My well pump n well house burnt down due to burn barrel I’ve replaced the pump n pipe finally got water to the s picket but the house sinks not working nothing comes out y
Hey H20 Mechanic! Great Video. We have an issue with our well where after about 5-10 minutes of running the water our water pressure goes down drastically. Approximately 25% of normal water pressure. We have a feeling the water pressure tank is not getting filled quickly enough and runs low and we getting poor flow rate from well. We have lived in the house for about 16 years. The well was drilled before we moved in. I have replaced the well pump about 12-14 years ago. We had folks come out this week and replace the water pressure tank because the pressure gauge was not functioning correctly and they told me the bladder in the water pressure tank was faulty.. The new water pressure tank did not correct the low pressure issue. So I am thinking perhaps a problem with the well pump or possibly the well itself. We live in the NE and are still in a drought. Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Depth of well & depth of pump would help me determine the issue properly. 1st it sounds like the water level is low in the well & runs out of pumpable water mid way thru. Possibly a leaky toilet in the house thats draining the well slow but 24/7 . So inspect toilets carefully!!! Secondly. 14 years is at the service life of the pump, its time for the motor to die (bearings fail inside) or the pump end could be worn out inside (impellers) & not allowing pressure to build. Turn off well breaker and wait 60 minutes and see if the pressure on the gauge drops to 0. It should hold steady if no water is leaking out.
@@h2omechanic Thanks so much for the information. We are having someone come out next week to check the well - depth of well, depth of pump, flow rate etc. I am hoping it's the pump. The well guy who is coming out does not think it's the pump. At this point, it makes sense to replace the the well pump in my opinon. We also had our neighbors drill a new well this summer which is around the timeframe we starting having issues. At that time we were in a draught and thought the draught was the issue for the low water pressure. I will try you recommended test today and let you know what happens.
Update!!! The well pump was faulty and replaced. In addition the flex tubing was replaced due to manganese build up. The good news is that there is plenty of water in the well
I just started having issues with my water supply while showering. Started to get air in the hot then in the cold. Checked on the pressure and it read steady at 30psi. Any help would be appreciated. Tha k you.
You either have a dieing bladder tank that's slowly leaking its air into your pipes & will eventually short cycle and you'll notice weak pressure then it'll start to fluctuate like crazy up & down. If that happens it's important to replace the tank. Or you have a leaking check valve in the pump. Which u would need to pull the pump & add a inline check valve above the pump. A test for this is to look at the psi gauge & have someone kill the power to the pump & see if in 5 minutes does the pressure drop any. Then while sitting near the tank listen carefully & have the power turned bk on. If it leaked & created a air pocket, you will then hear the air in the lines & going into the tank. You may have to open a sink . But listen to the incoming pipe for air. If no sound, it's likely that the tank is the issue. Tanks are hollow, knock on it like a door. It should ring like a bell. If its a thud, it's bad. Bad tanks will kill pumps within weeks
Having a well in the house is one of the worst things you can do I have a problem with my water it got really cold in my house and now the house only has half water only in the bathroom the toilet won't flush I have a flush mate toilet I've had Heaters one all the pipes all my water pipes are Pecks water lines.... This house is very warm now and I still only have water in half the house none in the kitchen what's the problem
Great video, thank you. Our hand-dug well is in a creek down a steep bank from our house. recently, the volume of water going through the system is less than half of what it normally is. The pressure is great for the first few seconds when you turn on a tap, but then it drops off very quickly. The creek is fairly low right now, but last year at this time we didn't have any problems. I'm thinking it could be a check valve issue but would appreciate any thoughts. thank you!
Probably running the well dry faster than it's filling up. I'd assume you have different zones. Try cutting off 25-30% of the heads and see if it lasts longer. If not try 50% of them off & repeat. If it still goes below 20 psi in 10 minutes with half of the heads off, you'll know that it's likely the pump or tank. Does your system have a tank? Or is it a timer run system?
Is the check valve same as the bleeder valve? Cuz my irrigation well pump has a bleed valve as well as a dole valve. The dole valve has reduced rhe pressure, but none the less I had some volume last time I used it before late fall. Yesterday I turned on the pump to irrigate and have a volume of a garden hose flow with hardly any pressure. It pumps 24 hours without any delay, but maybe 2 gal/ min. Do you think the well has droped? There is only one well driller in our area and he is swamped.
My 1st question to you would be is it in above ground jet pump or a submersible pump. You might have a cracked drop pipe like a few in this video. The check valve is not a bleeder valve. Bleeders are used with older galvanized tanks.
Just bought a house, no water in the house but when the inspector came it was on. Gauge reads 0 psi and the breaker is tripped. When I turn it off then on it hums for about a second then trips. Any ideas?
I have a 1hp 10gpm Goulds set @200' in a 380' hole with water starting around 100'. The other day I noticed it would no longer build over 40psi, therefore constantly running. (We're cutting off with the breaker) I'm going to pull it up for troubleshooting but do you think I should buy a more powerful pump? Installed in 2011, 60gpm per report....tons of iron in our aquifer too.
The age of your pump is right in line with its life expectancy. Don't buy a bigger GPM pump. My suggestion would be a 5GPM or 7 gpm 1Hp. They are designed to provide water from deeper levels like you described. They'll provide more than they say but in theory they are geared lower (impeller designed differently) What your experiencing is worn out impellers that can't build pressure anymore. I'd install a 3/4hp 5or7 gpm pump. It will work better & you won't notice any difference in volume or pressure
I installed new irrigation pump and pressure tank. Irrigation company came out and could not get pump to prime. They mentioned either the ejector or the packer. Does this make sense??
I have a 2hp Franklin submersible pump that was on 1 1/4" galvanized pipe pump sits at 300ft deep. Can I use a 1" 200psi black pipe like you use in your videos? Thanks!
Not with a 2hp pump. The main thing you'll need to know is how deep is your static water level. I'd assume it's very deep bc you have a 2hp & have galvanized pipe. If you have a 80ft static level & used a 1hp or 1.5hp then yes, you can use poly pipe
Hi my well pump stop working it was the breaker switch I changed the pressure switch it's sparkling aswell and now I've a spark at the switch and no pressure
I bought one of the junk lowes pumps. A little over a year and pressure it only around 30. I don't think it's cracked though. Seems to hold ok. Drops a tad when I turn it off but that might be from the pressure tank pushing back at such a low pressure. I keep finding weird plastic shavings floating on top of the water. It's got to be from the pump. But my water keeps having weird pulp in it that looks like orange juice pulp. And sometimes I get this stuff that looks just like dryer lint. Some other things, just weird stuff coming up. The water looks clear though. I can't imagine where it could be even coming from. I thought perhaps a cracked septic but I don't think it could make it that far over and through all the dirt and rocks. So bizarre. Unless the last owner who were addict's and trashed the place had thrown something down there. But the cap was on and it looks like it hadn't been off in ages. But who knows, maybe something from decades ago was dropped in there. I have plenty of filtering after the pump so lets hope a new high quality pump does the trick and doesn't break like the last one.
The 10 impellers are made of plastic and Teflon coated. They rotate at 3450rpm. The impellers were coming apart and that was the shavings you saw. It worn out the tolerance and couldn't build pressure anymore. Typically a failed bearing happens often in cheap brands & the impeller stack starts wobbling & rubbing & not running true. It's all too common. That's for your comment! It helps others with similar issues.
@@h2omechanic I ended up buying a more expensive American made pump. I put it in myself. Dang that was rough pulling up 120 feet of water filled line and pump myself!! This new pump is drastically better quality. Made from Lots of metal instead of cheap plastic. I think the bearing did fail on the last one and it shaved off a lot of the impeller and probably the weird stuff coming up was from shavings from the sides or something. Everything working great now. I'll always pay more for a good pump, not worth it to take a chance. I didn't even want to buy the cheap Lowes pump I knew that would bite me in the rear, but I was new in town and needed one fast and hoped for the best.
I JUST pulled a Red Jacket 1/3 hp 230 volt set at 100 ft and it worked until 3 weeks ago..it's a 1973!!! Gotta be a record I'm in SW Missouri,love this channel!
I just bought a brand new pump and controller and going about doing it myself , i would like to know if I can check my motor is working before lowering it into the well hole . If i connect 230v (South Africa ) on the motor whilst the motor is not connected to the pump and its out of the water, could i cause any harm? . Do those conditions matter or will the controller know im basically running "dry ". When i did this my pump controller flashed the lcd display and said STALLED as the amperage was 35.5 Amp and the motor didnt spin . Have you got any suggestions on how to diagnose the fault. Specs of my new pump are : SPERONI 4'' SUBMERSIBLE PUMP MODEL = ST 4013 3hp 2.2kw 50HZ My pump controller specs are: Model: MP-S1 PLUS Capacitor 70uf single phase 220v
Hello, maybe six months ago we had an issue with our tank. So I replaced the tank (replaced it with a bigger tank from 20gallon to 32gallon) and while at it I decided to replace everything else around it (pipes, pressure switch and control box). I remember it doesn’t take very long for it to build pressure from 30psi up to 50psi (maybe 10-15 seconds). Now the issue I am having is it taking longer to build pressure (a few minutes at least). It is now to the point that I can’t even fill up the tub without going back to the pressure switch and turning that lever to get it going again. Is it my pump causing this issue now? My pump is 1/2hp, my pressure switch is 30/50 and my tank size is 32gal. Any advice will be a great help and appreciated! Thank you!
Id say since you have a 30/50 switch, your tank being new its likely got too much air in it. Kill the power,drain all the water pressure to 0. Then check air on top w pressure gauge. It needs to be 25-27psi no more. If it is above 30, then you'll know that you found the issue
Quick question: I have no pressure. Checked electrical connections. Found loose wire at top of well. Fixed and reconnected. Can hear him in pipe. 123 V on each leg. Checked amp reading L1 - 6 amps L2 - 5.9 amps. Not sure of HP or age. Still no water pressure. Any thoughts?
Have a well pump it keep pressure on the house side but when no valves are in the pump kick on pressure up to shut off it hesitate then shut off but the pressure either stay off or kick on then loses prime
What about LOTS of air in the water lines? My well is about 100', submersible pump 20 years old (don't know what brand)- the well company I have used for 30+ years is gone- I replaced water filtration system, which worked great for the first day or 2, now things are just as bad-
You probably have a bad check valve in your pump & it's leaking water from the pipe when the system is off, this happens when you have another check valve near your tank. Watch my tank videos to know how to see if your tank is okay first. Once you figure out that the tank isn't bad, you'll know that it is the pump. Based on the age, it's time to replace the pump asap
Can you tell us the proper steps to install a new pump and how to determine how many check valves to use.
1 check valve at the pump is all you need 90% of the time
ua-cam.com/video/iXSQg6LLwxY/v-deo.html
Step by step installation. Many more well videos on my channel. Well Q&A Playlist
@@h2omechanic Thank you for the video and the reply. Sorry for this long-winded response, but thank you if you can assist me and anyone else in a similar situation. Trying to diagnose if it's a faulty check valve at the submersible pump or crack in well pipe at pump or on the line coming into house without pulling pump since we're still in the negative temperatures here in interior Alaska and 100 miles from the nearest well drilling specialist. Cannot see if there's any water spots on ground outside from well casing to the house, since we're under several feet of snow and ice for a few more months (usually thaws in April/May, with water not fully soaking into ground/evaporating until June/July). I can visually see the water rushing back down the well pipe via the whole house water filter with clear canister installed just after the well pipe that leads into crawlspace from underground (pre-expansion tank). The canister will drain down to less than 25% water and fill up with air approximately 75%. This happens after the water pressure drops from 50 down to 30 psi when using water and the pressure switch kicks on at that time. Pressure tank is set at 28 psi. There's a second check valve right before the expansion tank/pressure switch, so harder to diagnose since the gauge doesn't lose pressure over time because that check valve prevents pressure drop and is working. After the pressure tank water is exhausted and pressure is down to 28 psi the faucets start sputtering with air and spurts of water, and then several seconds later the water will rush back into the filter canister from the well pipe along with a bunch of air bubbles (delay of water filling canister). Once the water visually fills the filter canister again very rapidly, the water at faucets will continue sputtering before releasing brown sediment, and this takes approximately 20-30 seconds to clear up. Once the sputtering stops, a few more seconds pass before the sediment clears, and then the water is clear and the pressure tank starts building pressure again to 50 psi. This cycle repeats every time the pressure switch calls for water, and there has ALWAYS been water hammer once the pump cut off (the well pipe to crawl space will shake, and it has a foam "pool noodle" sleeve around it to deaden the noise). Been this way since we bought the home and didn't come up during inspection. Well and well pump installed 2019 when home built. Given the sediment that gets washed up every time, I was leaning towards a semi-educated guess/DIY diagnosis of a crack in the well pipe right above the pump, since that would create a water swirl that stirs up sediment that is getting sucked back into the pump and eventually the pump fills with enough water to overcome the air in the pipe and comes racing back up. After finding your video, now I'm wondering if it could be the check valve at the pump being bad. Again, sorry for the long drawn out reply/description. In your experience, has a bad check valve at the pump caused something similar? I.e. air in the well pipe, followed by sediment brown water before clearing again, only to repeat again, every time? Or do all signs point to a cracked pipe? Thanks again for reading. I know time is valuable.
@@h2omechanic I think my check valve is leaking so I'm going to add one just before the pressure tank. Will that usually get them to stop back leaking?
@@mickjager5974 no. Itll actually cause an air pocket to form in the line when the pump leaks down. Every morning itll cycle & send a small burst of air into the tank.
The only (half a$$) way to fix it easy is to add a check valve directly at the top of the well. But it still may cause the air issue, just less bc it takes the "trench pipe" out of the equation in regards to the drain back.
I'd consider it a band-aid, but 100% will stop the cycling. If you notice air during a shower or flush a toilet, now you'll understand why this happened.
In my opinion there is no one else on you tube who is as clear and concise as this young man when it comes to diagnosing well water issues!
Agree !
I just bought a house with a well. I've always had city water, so wells are new to me. Thanks for posting such an informative video.
I subbed and rang the bell ...love the practical info for the novice ... I'm a 66 yr old retired builder who cut his teeth in the golf course irrigation business 40 years ago ... so I know a bit about wells and plumbing ... bought an old historic house to restore 6 years ago ... no info on well and the service guy never returned my calls with history ... 3 years later, no water one morning, simple diagnostic, 30 year old controller circuit board fried (Franklin 3 wire) ... simple fix ....then 3 years later, last week no water, controls good, pressure switch good ... both red and black (230 had power down into the casing) ... checked OHM reading for 1/2 hp, it was twice the specs, so bad motor ... called 5 well guys, only 1 returned my call (prior service guy) said he was booked out 5 weeks and said it would be $2,500 to pull and new pump ... so I looked at the dog the next morning and said, hey, we're going to be Well Guys ... eastern PA right on the Delaware River, 60 ft above it, so I know pump could not be that deep ... good quality sanitary seal, 1 1/4 poly with good brass fittings ... pulled the pump by hand, dog was no help and he's a 100 lb cart dog (bouvier des flandres) but he was supportive (from the shade) ... half way up (40 ft) I saw the wires were severely chaffed/open, corroded copper showing ... finally got the pump out and checked Ser # manufacture date ... 1987, 1/2 hp Franklin Electric with a Morris pump ... motor case was weeping rust .... Damn thing was 32 years old, 3 wire, red/black/yellow, wires were that old as well ... figured they didn't owe anyone anything (although house was a summer home for 60 years and empty for 20 of those last years before I bought it from their eastate (elderly couple) so it didn't have a lot of "run time" ... I did make up a double male garden hose and attached to my nice elderly neighbor next door, so I have water (I do a lot of "fixing and favors" for him and his wife, so he was glad to help out there .... so good news is I had watched all your well videos, so I ordered online, a good 3/4 HP Flint Walling pump and 100 ft of new 10 ga wire and WP splicing kit (local supplier only had 2 wire F&W's) ... and even found that 3M self sealing silicon tape on amazon (came today) got 6 rolls for $15 ... I was going to replace the torque arrestor and wire guards and rig a safety line until I watch your video ... and I agree, way too much stuff down a well casing to get stuck or go wrong ... So I'm only going with the pump, additional 1 1/4 brass check valve, and well taped wires (pump is at 80 ft, so easy to pull) ... Franklin controller was new 3 yr ago and well as new breaker/cut out switch, new pressure switch, pressure gauge and expansion tank, new spin down filter, followed by double GE Carbon filters ... all new Pex throughout the house ... anyway, long winded, but wanted to thank you for the tip on going with a "Clean" install without all the questionable "add on's" that could cause future trouble ... love that 3M self stick, self seal tape ... and I have 4 rolls of 3M Super "33" as well (your other tip) ... Pump and wire will be here tomorrow ... (I also took your idea and used an old cart wheel rim and build a small wood frame over my 5 ft deep well pit to support and guide the poly pipe on the way out (and back in) .. best of luck to you in your business ... you'll do well (no pun intended) with your logical and professional approach ...
Hello. Very in formative.👍 I have SOME
air in my lines. Bled pressure tank and bladder has 27lbs on 30/50 switch. Pressure with water appears to be holding. Pump was replaced 18 yrs ago with sched 80 pvc feed line I believe in casing. I know it was plastic. I’m thinking there may be a crack at the pump. The well is 54’ deep pump is set at 50’ static is 37’. Do you think the pump or fittings are the culprit. How difficult is it to pull if that’s what you think needs to be done
Very informative. Can you do a video of pulling the pump from the well? Thanks again for the video
Having a lot of air in my system. Not so much on the cold side. Mostly the hot. Air comes and goes. Sometimes no air for a couple of days. Pump is cycling as it should even though its 40 years old. Any Ideas would be appreciated.
Did you ever figure out the issue?
l'm interested in a property about 1000 miles away. He said it has a well but the pump don't work. Any suggestions? Should l have a plumber check it out or just go out there and deal with it and try and fix it myself?
Deal with it later. Having a well is a great thing. Pumps are easy fix .
I got low water pressure. Seemed to be gradually happening. Don’t seem to be the switch or the tank. My next step was to see if the galvanized lines after the pump are clogged. Losing my mind trying to figure out the problem. Any info would be appreciated at this point!
If you kill the power & the water psi gauge drops to 0 without you using any, that says that you have a bad pipe or fitting in the well with a hole in it. The hole slowly gets bigger & pressure gets weaker. This video is exactly what you will find.
Hi. My pump is a Tesla Ideal 2 and every few days or so it stops and come out with the code OL which means over load. We have pull the pump out and it doesn’t have that valve to stop the water coming back into the pump. Please advise if possible. Thanks
Buy a Simmons Check valve and put it on top of the pump. 1.25"x1"brass
If its a new pump hopefully it's still good.
Typically a OL happens & the motor is dying, so if the pumps old, replace it.
I stay away from Tesla stuff imo. I'd buy a Goulds or J-class or Grundfos. If the Pump has a Franklin Electric motor on it, it's Quality! Cheap pump have short lives & don't lift from very deep. I did a Video on Amazon pumps showing just that.
My pump keeps running constantly I cant find anywhere where water would be leaking in the house and the ground is not wet where the supply line is running to the house. I manually disengaged pressure switch it was running at 52 psi and the pressure dropped to 30 with no faucets or anything running pressure switch came on pressure built pack up to 52 psi and pump stays running could it be a bad check valve?
Bad check valve would still allow switch to cut out & then cut back on. But your close! The fitting connector from pump to pipe has cracked or if metal its worn a hole in it. Time to pull out the pump & look for a crack or hole in the pipe & fittings. Itll be easy to spot.
Finally found the Man to get down to problem shoots. This is my now go to channel!! Im so glad i found this channel.
Been subscribed for a couple months, watched a lot of videos. Asked questions 2 - 3 times, didn't get any response. Will keep trying. 😊
1) Thinking to put pressure tank and connect to the pump about 10' under the ground to eliminate heating well house in the winter season. A) is it a good idea? B) how to do it? C) Should I install another pressure tank under the house in the crawl space? Well is about 30 yards away from the house.
i have a well pump changed pressure tank but still air in the system which can be very bothersome any suggestions
If you have a check valve at the tank, that's the key. The check valve at your tank is holding good, but the check valve in the pump is leaking. This allows the water in the pump pipe to slowly leak down creating a air pocket that gets sent to the house the next time the pump turns on. If I'm correct, the air will be worse in the morning & also when you use water after it sits off for hours.
Pull the pump & add a Check valve on top of pump, or just replace the pump, its probably 10 years old at this point if the check is failing
Help. Pressure won't get over 25psi at the tank. Guage is on the Air Volume Control. Submersible pump constantly running. Seems to hold pressure when pump is shutoff. Has a check valve with ports for pressure switch and air valve between well head and tank. Could the check valve be bad?
Typically in a situation like this, you remove the pump & youll find a hole or crack in the pipe that is leaking out most of your pressure.
@@h2omechanic Thanks. That's what it seems like. I put some pressure in with my air compressor and after the switch kicked off I could hear some gurgling at the well head, but tank pressure stayed steady.
What a very informative video!!
Thank you SO much for your time. Your very helpful for many people. ❤️❤️🙏
Thanks Ang! I try my best
Hi amazing video. Our pump pumps up to 20 psi when I turn the breaker off it does not drop down it just stays at 20 ; when I open the Spicket at the well it drops down to zero when I close the Spicket it goes back up to 20 what do you think the problem might be ? Thank you so much for your help !
Sounds to me like the pumps old & worn out or possible cracked pipe in well. Or a leak in yard or under home. If u find no leaks, the pump needs to be pulled out of the well
Very helpful, I have been having air, low pressure in my water, mostly in the hot for whatever reason, I had a plumber come out, he said it was the Well, I called a Well company they said it is inside the house and that there was nothing wrong with the well, to call a plumber, I called another plumber they said it was the water heater, switched it, still have the same issue, came back today says its likey the connections from the well to the house. They are coming back Monday to run pressure test on the connection, what do you think, So far I have spent $1700, still have the problem. I was quoted $450 for the test on Monday.
I have shorts on the issue on my channel for reference.
I,m in texas I covered the well, turned the power off to the water we ll,drained the pipes before we left town for a couple of days. Came home turned the water on and water came shooting out of the vent. Any suggestions ?????????
What vent?
Even after draining a system, it's not 100% dry. It's just 0 on pressure. You probably have a frozen pipe
Yes, partially frozen. Could hear t clearing, thanks for your videos, very much appreciated and very informative. Thanks again, God Bless.
Hey I been researching to buy new line for the well water supply 200 psi.. well to pressure tank where can I buy and what type of line or brand name thanks…
H2o machanic, i watched your vids for a while. In alaska, and long way from a well man when they come arround 125 to 225 miles away. They normally like to stack jobs to justify trip in. Moved into house with well and off CITY water.. I was told the well was 240 foot deep, i dont know the static depth. And of course no well log with the house. The pump runs it will build pressure to 32 to 45 psi. When running depending which guage i use. Running 30- 50 pressure switch. The pressure tank when empty rings like bell and light. The pressure at the schrader valve read 32, lowered to 29psi. Still no effect... Watched couple other vids. Barrowed amp meter reads 6amps on both power legs on start up and run. There is 120 on each leg of power and the load side 240 when on. We can turn off the breaker, water will hold all night untill tank is empty of may be 6 to 10 gals (60 gal tank). We turn the pump on with the breaker and water is back, but the pump will not raise it to the high limit. The pump will run untill i go and open the contacts mannually.. then again if circut left on , water flows unill low limit kicks pump on. Then repeat. I dont know how old the pump is. House was partially used last few years. The well was run dry a few years ago during a summer pressure washing. But it functioned for the next few years. Winters comming would like to get it fixed before snow hits in six to eight weeks.... my wife likes showers and like her..
I am having an issue where my water will shuddering out of the faucets pretty violently every now and then, as if there is water in the line. Any idea what could be putting water in my system? Where is a good place to start?
Any resolution?
@@stlouisx50 nope
I'm currently having difficulties with our pump. This happens alot when it's dry season but this time around it's so bad. The water pumps at insanely low pressure and isn't stable. Yesterday I tried filling a bucket with the water from the pump and it took almost 10 minutes. Normally it should take 20 seconds at most to fill. Could it be there's a hole in a pipe somewhere?
Do all pumps come with a check valve, or is it something added in special circumstances? Second question, where is the bottom of the casing in relation to the pump? ie does the pump extend out the bottom of the casing, or is the pump protected inside the casing to prevent it from rocking and damaging itself or plugging up against adjacent rock and mud?
Yes hello, just replaced a 3 hp Franklin submersible motor because my Gould motor seized up only 2 years on line.we kept thegould pump figuring that at only 2 years of service that would be ok,we also replaced the Franklin electric. control box. I now have two problems.
1- get only app. 12 lbs.of pressure at holding tank so sprinklers are hardly spraying.We check pressure at pump location and still only had 30 lbs.
2- at the control box there is 350 volts between the red and black and 245 between yellow and black which makes no sense to me because the elec. service coming into main breaker 1phase 120 - 240 volts.
Please help if you can. Thanks
Great video, I think I have a bad pump but I have to check for a leak too. The air tank had pressure and the switch/pressure gauge are only a year old. But it only pressurizes to 35 psi, seems like a pump thing.
argh~ i'd pull my hair out if I had any left. On well water via aerator tank. Experiencing air in the system. Pressure gauge (located after the check valve) always holds steady when water is not being drawn. (40/60 pressure valve) Pressure tank, 32gal, bladder checks "ok" after depressurizing system (37 psi). Visual inspection fails to identify any water leakage yet, turn on the shower or sink faucet and, shortly thereafter, comes clear signs that there is air in the system. Also, have purged every water outlet my house (both internal and external). Oh, did i mention.. AAARRGGHHH!!!!!!
EXCELLENT VIDEO ON CAUSES OF LOW PRESSURE. RARE VIEWS OF LINE FAILURES AT THE WELL PUMP.
Hey h2o mechanic! Been watching a bunch of your videos. We have a scenario where we are sitting around 16psi, pump is drawing 6amps constantly, pressure tank won’t fill. It’s a submerged pump and popping the top we see water about 15 feet down (previous professional had mentioned well was drying up, which doesn’t make sense). We are unsure if this is pressure tank problem, pump problem, or possible well issue. Any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
Your channel saved the bacon for me today. Lost water pressure last night at 10pm, had it solved by this afternoon. Long story short, 280' deep, new pump and wiring
Happy to Help!
@@h2omechanic no doubt, your explanations were simple to understand, and the knowledge you shared saved me a couple thousand bucks I'm sure.. my brother is an electrician, so that helped some lol
Monday sept 23rd I was doing some plumbing in my house and I had to turn off the pump several times so I go to turn the power to the pump and I had the garden hose on and the sink faucets on to get water out of lines , I go to pump house and the pressure tank is making like surging sounds, so I turn the power switch off again, I drain the tank and check the pressure in the tank with a pressure gauge and zero pressure, I turn it back on and it’s making noise and like surging, but I have 38 lbs of pressure on the gauge, I turn the sink and hose off for a bit , then I turn the hose on and it’s working for about 3 mins and water stops coming out? The tank is still reading 38 lbs I don’t know what to do? Maybe you know what it is? Please help
My circuit breaker keeps tripping in about 2min time even though I tested the breaker, replaced the pressure switch and I believe the tank is still good. I would appreciate any thoughts that you might have. Thanks in advance!
I have replaced everything minus the pump. I’m getting water for approximately 10 mins and I loose pressure. I was told the pump is going Thermal coupler was going out. That even though it was in the water, when it got hot it would shut it down. If I let it wait 1520 minutes it will run again for a short period of time before I lose pressure. Does that sound like that is correct, this is for sprinkler system
Your problem is the well isn't filling up fast enough. R u In Florida or GA? Southern states are going thru a drought at the moment.
@@h2omechanic I’m in GA but this happened before the drought. Also looking at my new pressure gauge it fills back up quickly . I have replaced the control panel, water bladder, and pressure switch, filters, ext. all zones are free and clear
@@triplethreatoutdoors6523 are sure your tanks air pressure is 2psi below the switch "on" number
@h20 mechanic I got an issue. Deepened my well 1 yr ago and still having issues. Pumped silt and sand for 6 mo. Still a little comes through. Pump 30ft off bottom of well. Had the well line replaced a month ago now can not keep enough pressure to run the yard sprinklers. Took switch apart clean and functioning correct, gage says pressue 55-75 pump kicks on and off. I have 4- 70 gal pressure tanks and all new 2" pex for everything b4 comes into house. Sprinklers T off b4 running into house? 5 horse 3phase pump at 190ft? What could be reason I am not maintaining water pressure?
Amazing video, great job, subscribed! I have air coming into the house water lines only after I haven't used the water for a while, like overnight, and only when it first comes on. If I keep the water flowing, like when outside water my plants, I don't have additional air in the lines (even after the pump kicks on again). Thinking this might be a crack in the well pipe which allows air in while the pump is at rest (water leaking out over time), perhaps somewhere above the water line. Does that make sense to you? I plan to pull the pump and check. Thanks for any advice.
Your on the right track! It's probably not a crack...but could be. It's typically a leaking check valve in the pump. If you have a check valve at the tank or at the top of the well, then that ones holding pressure back & the one in the pump is leaking slowly. If the pumps old, just replace it honestly. Or if it's less than 8 years old, add a check valve on top of your pump & re install! Your definitely in the right direction!
@@h2omechanic This is SO helpful. Thanks for being so generous with your expertise and time! Pump is about fifteen years old, so time for a change!
Happy To Help!😊
I have trouble with my well pump. Somehow, the pump shorts out and doesn't get electricity when it is hanging normally. The pump comes back online only if I pull up the wire maybe a foot up, therefore making the wires tighter. At that pulled up position, it works fine until my iron removal system regenerates/backwashes... I had two companies stop by, and they just offer to replace the well pump which will cost ~$10,000. Do you have any suggestions on troubleshooting this? Thanks so much for your expertise and your time!!
Thank you for this information, we just lost pressure at home. I checked the tank, swith and still no pressure went outside to see if something was visible and there was all the water around the well gushing out bringing sand out to the grass..
My water slows then stop's after 5 minutes or so, for 30s to a minute or so, then comes back on for a while and may do the same thing again . I replaced the pressure switch. Air in tank is 38lbs. Switch shows power going to pump but pump not pumping, then it pumps for a short time and pressure reads 40lbs will come pack on a short time later. Is it a low water issue???. Thanks
Help! New pressure switch, relay, and capacitor. Pressure tank holding 37 psi without fail. Water comes on until pressure reaches low end and then drops out. Pressure gage on pipe goes to 0. Sometimes it recovers quick, other times not.
What pump you recommend for a 3 H.P. 40 G.P.M. three phase ,Drop pipe is 1-1/4" pump depth is 180 Ft
I’m having a issue where my pump won’t give me the same GPM when I turn my hose bib on I get good pressure and after the pressure switch kicks in the pump does not give me the constant pressure like it can’t keep up slows down also and takes pressure from the house to nothing I have a grizzly red jacket pump 1/2 HP 120 volt pump. Installed new 20 gallon tank and 40/60 pressure switch also any ideas I know this is a lot
I have a pump with good pressure tank, air in pressure tank is set at 38lbs. Installed new switch 40/60. Installed new gauge. Pump will come on and run for a minute or two, then pressured starts to drop till there is no water. Then about 5-10 minutes later pump will come back on and run again for two minutes. New gauge will never read above 35lbs, even if water is off. What would cause this? Undersized pump? Broken line in well? Need some help before I pull pump and replace. Any suggestions? Thanks
We have a deep well pump, when my wife starts shower, I hear water and what sounds like air surging in lines as well, possibly sounds like cavitation. Using pressure washer is surge of water, wait for pressure to build then more water. Don't know what pipe we have, seeing your broken pipes, was a help. The motor torque twists the lines. We hv high rust, don't know how old pump is.
Put in a new pump, tank, pressure switch, control box. Will pressure up 40-60 and run for about 15 min then water flow comes down to a drip, but then will kick back up for a few minutes. Any ideas
A 2hp water pump stopped pushing out water because of low voltage,after it was rectified, it stops pushing out water,don't actually know the cause of problem?
Our old 0.75hp water pump for shallow well stops pushing water at around 3-5 minutes, but after a seconds of unplugging it and then re-plugging it again, it pushes water up to the tank for the same time frame of 3-5 minutes. We tried a new water pump 1hp but doesn't even push water up to the tank. What could be the problem?
In my problem the 24 volt screw pump is working in the bucket of water. But once put in the well it doesn't push any water out. What could be the problem?
I had a minor water leak in a pipe under my house, I got the leak repaired and ever since I’ve had a HUGE amount of air coming from my well. Plumber said the leak could have cause my check valve to go bad from running constantly. Have you ever had this issue?
I’m having a problem with air getting in my system, I turned off main valve in the house and water pressure between pump and bladder tank drop and I don’t see any leaks in the house. I’m totally confused as to how I’m getting air. Can you help? Thanks
Hi am Julian and thank you for this video. My Franklin water cylinder have no pressure and the motor cylinder gets hot when switching ON. Please help me.
Last year my pump ran fine. This year, none of the zones would come on. The pump is running and the hydrant at the pump discharges water but with very low pressure. I can put my thumb on the hydrant and stop the flow. I bought a cheap pump two or three years ago and I’m wondering if I got what I paid for. When it turn on my system, all the heads dribble water. Kind of at a loss here. Think the pump wore itself out?
Standard in my area is 100 psi poly pipe. Wish the standard was higher. I can't even install a cycle stop valve because back pressure would exceed 100 psi
What about a new replacement pump, new pressure tank, new switch/nipple and pressure gauge but only getting 20 psi the most?
When my well pump is pumping (filling the tank ) water is also coming out at the well head- The water at the well head stops- when the presser switch stops calling for water from the well pump.-Could it be my pipe to the pump has a crack ? ---10 22 22
Moved into a home and I get water for 10 min and then slowly lowers and then sputters and shoots out air really hard. It has an above ground pump. Anyway after sputtering then I'm out of water for around 12 to 19 minutes or so before the pressure is back and this cycle repeats
So you can imagine how horrible a shower is during doing laundry
Any tips?
My pump was sucking sand. I replaced it, but I'm scared that it suck up sand again. Do I shorten my pipe so that the pump lies above the sand? And, by how much length do I shorten it ?
Buying a house, well gives 200 gallons and then stops. Well is about 2year old. I am trying to find well master in Spartanburg SC
I've got no water after a cold snap on a fixer upper property with some shoddy plumbing. The pressure tank appears to be fine, but its sitting at 22-23 PSI with a 30/50 switch and I don't have an air compressor right now. Pressure gauge that was already installed is busted so I can't get a reading off that. When I test the contacts on the pressure switch they spark but the submersible pump will not cycle. Around the well casing itself there is water pooled aboveground which I can guess is not good. Any help is appreciated I am totally inexperienced with wells.
Kill the power & see if the pressure drops to 0. If it does, then you should pull the pump and look for a busted pipe.
An ice broke can make a pump dead head & itll bust the drop pipe.
Hi
I just have my well pump stopped working. I checked everything and find one wire out of the three wires dose not work and no power. I pushed the two reset buttons and it started. But it has low pressure and it turns off every 4-8 hours.
Should I replace a pump or the wires?
Mine doesn't go passed 40psi then if I run water it jumps quickly to 30 then 20 psi then all the way down to zero.
My water pressure is good as soon as you turn on the faucet, but slowly gets weaker and weaker. I am pretty sure the bladder and pressure switch are good. What do you think?
I have a shallow well and the pump is in my house, pressure runs 30/50 psi. I had a water drip on a 2 1/4 galv fitting going to the pump and replaced it along with a new union, now all i can get is 20 pounds psi and I took the pipes apart 3 time and put back together with different pipe dope and even with Teflon tape with no luck thinking i might have a suction leak..HELP
You have a air lock somewhere in the pipe. Thats the most common issue with jet pump. Air is a bitch to get out. Try to prime it with the valve barley open & slowly open it once it's running. This helps prevent cavitation.
Need help! Got a 1hp pump installed/shallow well 35 ft. Ran for almost a month and now zero water pressure but pump is still humming along.
When I turn on my water hose I just heat an air sound. Please,
Give me advice. I’ve had someone out here like 6 times and it’s still not running properly.
I bought a house recently that has spring water into a holding tank, from there it is pumped into the house. Since the power has been turned on the water will only run for roughly a minute and then shuts off completely. After 30 seconds to a minute it comes back on for another minute or so...system has new pressure switch installed...what could this be?
Hey my water cut off on Saturday night and I can’t get it back on .. I replaced the switch and it’s getting power, but when I plug in the switch nothing happens . Showing 0 pressure in the tank , well and pump are only 7 years old but we have a lot iron in our water ..you think the pump is toast already ?
Pump is likely bad or wire going down to the pump is bad/broken/ wire jacket rubbed off & exposed the copper wire inside. The pump has a 10-12 year life normally. But a deep set 1hp pump at 300-400ft has a 7 year life span typically.
My sinks, toilets and shower are violently blowing air with the water and occasionally the water is really dirty. I fill my air tank and then run the water. After about a minute it goes back to normal but when the pressure gets low again it starts back up ... thoughts good sir?
I bought agould half horse pump sub does it have. A inturnalcheckvalve
I have a problem with lots of air in my water. It's really annoying because it splashes water all over bathrooms and the kitchen. What can I do?
Last year my pressure tank was dry cycling several times- each time I would drain the system and would provide relief for a month or so before doing it again. Pin pointed it (or so I thought) to a bad pressure tank and just installed it along with new lines and pressure switch. When turning the breaker on the system would pressurize; but whenever we open the faucet, the pressure immediately dumps to 0psi. What is going on here?
There's way too much air in the tank for your size switch.
Setting air pressure in the tank is critical. If you have a 40/60 switch, go let 15 seconds of air from the tank. Then try it, & repeat until it acts normal. Or watch my tank videos on how to set it .
Its 2psi below the switch "on" #
Power must be off & no water in tank while setting air pressure
i replaced my pressure tank, pressure switch almost 3 months ago and everything was fine but today. had to kick pressure switch on had water but when it was used it didnt kick back on when useing washing machine...but when i turned the pressure switch back on it showed no pressure on guage so i waited about 25 min and tried again it showed on pressure switch..the pump is 14 years old
The average pump life is 12 years. So you pump is probably over heating after a little run time & cools off & runs again. Time to replace the pump most likely
I'm getting power to everything but no pressure then after around 15 seconds it cuts off. Does that sound like a bad pump to you?
Yes. Bad pump. Over heating, locked up or bad bearings
Hi there. So my pump has shot off the end of the line a few times we changed the fitting to a metal one and now there's no water so we replaced the switch. Still nothing so now it's pulled out and I'll look at all the pipe and wire but it shows power to control box and the switch. It's only 30 feet and the pump was changed in September of last year.
My pressure is fine but I have air blasting out with my water.
I get a mixture of air and water and it blasts out like high pressure.
Outside it will jerk a water hose out of your hands when the air comes thru
My well pump n well house burnt down due to burn barrel I’ve replaced the pump n pipe finally got water to the s picket but the house sinks not working nothing comes out y
Hey H20 Mechanic! Great Video. We have an issue with our well where after about 5-10 minutes of running the water our water pressure goes down drastically. Approximately 25% of normal water pressure. We have a feeling the water pressure tank is not getting filled quickly enough and runs low and we getting poor flow rate from well. We have lived in the house for about 16 years. The well was drilled before we moved in. I have replaced the well pump about 12-14 years ago. We had folks come out this week and replace the water pressure tank because the pressure gauge was not functioning correctly and they told me the bladder in the water pressure tank was faulty.. The new water pressure tank did not correct the low pressure issue. So I am thinking perhaps a problem with the well pump or possibly the well itself. We live in the NE and are still in a drought. Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Depth of well & depth of pump would help me determine the issue properly.
1st it sounds like the water level is low in the well & runs out of pumpable water mid way thru. Possibly a leaky toilet in the house thats draining the well slow but 24/7 . So inspect toilets carefully!!!
Secondly. 14 years is at the service life of the pump, its time for the motor to die (bearings fail inside) or the pump end could be worn out inside (impellers) & not allowing pressure to build.
Turn off well breaker and wait 60 minutes and see if the pressure on the gauge drops to 0. It should hold steady if no water is leaking out.
@@h2omechanic Thanks so much for the information. We are having someone come out next week to check the well - depth of well, depth of pump, flow rate etc. I am hoping it's the pump. The well guy who is coming out does not think it's the pump. At this point, it makes sense to replace the the well pump in my opinon. We also had our neighbors drill a new well this summer which is around the timeframe we starting having issues. At that time we were in a draught and thought the draught was the issue for the low water pressure. I will try you recommended test today and let you know what happens.
Update!!! The well pump was faulty and replaced. In addition the flex tubing was replaced due to manganese build up. The good news is that there is plenty of water in the well
Great news! Thanks for your update!
@@josephecannon reading this I was even worried for you that the neighbor was taking to much water. But that's good news
I just started having issues with my water supply while showering. Started to get air in the hot then in the cold. Checked on the pressure and it read steady at 30psi.
Any help would be appreciated.
Tha k you.
You either have a dieing bladder tank that's slowly leaking its air into your pipes & will eventually short cycle and you'll notice weak pressure then it'll start to fluctuate like crazy up & down. If that happens it's important to replace the tank. Or you have a leaking check valve in the pump. Which u would need to pull the pump & add a inline check valve above the pump. A test for this is to look at the psi gauge & have someone kill the power to the pump & see if in 5 minutes does the pressure drop any. Then while sitting near the tank listen carefully & have the power turned bk on. If it leaked & created a air pocket, you will then hear the air in the lines & going into the tank. You may have to open a sink . But listen to the incoming pipe for air. If no sound, it's likely that the tank is the issue. Tanks are hollow, knock on it like a door. It should ring like a bell. If its a thud, it's bad. Bad tanks will kill pumps within weeks
Having a well in the house is one of the worst things you can do I have a problem with my water it got really cold in my house and now the house only has half water only in the bathroom the toilet won't flush I have a flush mate toilet I've had Heaters one all the pipes all my water pipes are Pecks water lines.... This house is very warm now and I still only have water in half the house none in the kitchen what's the problem
Great video, thank you. Our hand-dug well is in a creek down a steep bank from our house. recently, the volume of water going through the system is less than half of what it normally is. The pressure is great for the first few seconds when you turn on a tap, but then it drops off very quickly. The creek is fairly low right now, but last year at this time we didn't have any problems. I'm thinking it could be a check valve issue but would appreciate any thoughts. thank you!
OK, nevermind! turns out our water filter is clogged. Thanks for the great video anyways :)
Sprinklers run fine for 10 minutes then pressure drops to below 20psi. What do you think is wrong. Thankyou
Probably running the well dry faster than it's filling up. I'd assume you have different zones. Try cutting off 25-30% of the heads and see if it lasts longer. If not try 50% of them off & repeat. If it still goes below 20 psi in 10 minutes with half of the heads off, you'll know that it's likely the pump or tank. Does your system have a tank? Or is it a timer run system?
Is the check valve same as the bleeder valve? Cuz my irrigation well pump has a bleed valve as well as a dole valve. The dole valve has reduced rhe pressure, but none the less I had some volume last time I used it before late fall. Yesterday I turned on the pump to irrigate and have a volume of a garden hose flow with hardly any pressure. It pumps 24 hours without any delay, but maybe 2 gal/ min. Do you think the well has droped? There is only one well driller in our area and he is swamped.
My 1st question to you would be is it in above ground jet pump or a submersible pump. You might have a cracked drop pipe like a few in this video.
The check valve is not a bleeder valve. Bleeders are used with older galvanized tanks.
Just bought a house, no water in the house but when the inspector came it was on. Gauge reads 0 psi and the breaker is tripped. When I turn it off then on it hums for about a second then trips. Any ideas?
I have a 1hp 10gpm Goulds set @200' in a 380' hole with water starting around 100'. The other day I noticed it would no longer build over 40psi, therefore constantly running. (We're cutting off with the breaker) I'm going to pull it up for troubleshooting but do you think I should buy a more powerful pump?
Installed in 2011, 60gpm per report....tons of iron in our aquifer too.
The age of your pump is right in line with its life expectancy.
Don't buy a bigger GPM pump.
My suggestion would be a 5GPM or 7 gpm 1Hp. They are designed to provide water from deeper levels like you described. They'll provide more than they say but in theory they are geared lower (impeller designed differently)
What your experiencing is worn out impellers that can't build pressure anymore.
I'd install a 3/4hp 5or7 gpm pump. It will work better & you won't notice any difference in volume or pressure
I installed new irrigation pump and pressure tank. Irrigation company came out and could not get pump to prime. They mentioned either the ejector or the packer. Does this make sense??
Yes they are correct. The check valve or injector at bottom is leaking out the water. Probably 10+ years old & has a hole in it
I have a 2hp Franklin submersible pump that was on 1 1/4" galvanized pipe pump sits at 300ft deep. Can I use a 1" 200psi black pipe like you use in your videos? Thanks!
Not with a 2hp pump.
The main thing you'll need to know is how deep is your static water level. I'd assume it's very deep bc you have a 2hp & have galvanized pipe.
If you have a 80ft static level & used a 1hp or 1.5hp then yes, you can use poly pipe
Hi my well pump stop working it was the breaker switch I changed the pressure switch it's sparkling aswell and now I've a spark at the switch and no pressure
I bought one of the junk lowes pumps. A little over a year and pressure it only around 30. I don't think it's cracked though. Seems to hold ok. Drops a tad when I turn it off but that might be from the pressure tank pushing back at such a low pressure. I keep finding weird plastic shavings floating on top of the water. It's got to be from the pump. But my water keeps having weird pulp in it that looks like orange juice pulp. And sometimes I get this stuff that looks just like dryer lint. Some other things, just weird stuff coming up. The water looks clear though. I can't imagine where it could be even coming from. I thought perhaps a cracked septic but I don't think it could make it that far over and through all the dirt and rocks. So bizarre. Unless the last owner who were addict's and trashed the place had thrown something down there. But the cap was on and it looks like it hadn't been off in ages. But who knows, maybe something from decades ago was dropped in there.
I have plenty of filtering after the pump so lets hope a new high quality pump does the trick and doesn't break like the last one.
The 10 impellers are made of plastic and Teflon coated. They rotate at 3450rpm. The impellers were coming apart and that was the shavings you saw. It worn out the tolerance and couldn't build pressure anymore. Typically a failed bearing happens often in cheap brands & the impeller stack starts wobbling & rubbing & not running true. It's all too common. That's for your comment! It helps others with similar issues.
@@h2omechanic I ended up buying a more expensive American made pump. I put it in myself. Dang that was rough pulling up 120 feet of water filled line and pump myself!! This new pump is drastically better quality. Made from Lots of metal instead of cheap plastic. I think the bearing did fail on the last one and it shaved off a lot of the impeller and probably the weird stuff coming up was from shavings from the sides or something. Everything working great now. I'll always pay more for a good pump, not worth it to take a chance. I didn't even want to buy the cheap Lowes pump I knew that would bite me in the rear, but I was new in town and needed one fast and hoped for the best.
I JUST pulled a Red Jacket 1/3 hp 230 volt set at 100 ft and it worked until 3 weeks ago..it's a 1973!!! Gotta be a record I'm in SW Missouri,love this channel!
Awesome video man thanks for the help
I just bought a brand new pump and controller and going about doing it myself , i would like to know if I can check my motor is working before lowering it into the well hole . If i connect 230v (South Africa ) on the motor whilst the motor is not connected to the pump and its out of the water, could i cause any harm? . Do those conditions matter or will the controller know im basically running "dry ". When i did this my pump controller flashed the lcd display and said STALLED as the amperage was 35.5 Amp and the motor didnt spin . Have you got any suggestions on how to diagnose the fault.
Specs of my new pump are :
SPERONI
4'' SUBMERSIBLE PUMP MODEL = ST 4013
3hp 2.2kw 50HZ
My pump controller specs are:
Model: MP-S1 PLUS
Capacitor 70uf
single phase 220v
You can run it dry as long as it's thru the control box. For about 5-10 seconds
No water pressure and tank and pressure gauge good..what could it be?
Great video brotha very helpful. I have a junk check valve. Saved me from army crawling under the house for hours.
Outstanding explanation! Thank You
My daughters pump just buzzes or hums when I turn the breaker on any ideas.
I have an irrigation pump when I turn the power on I can hear water flowing down in the well but no water comes up, what could the problem be?
Broke pipe in the well leaking out all the pressure. You'll probably have to pull it up by pulling on the wire. Have 2 or 3 ppl help you.
Hello, maybe six months ago we had an issue with our tank. So I replaced the tank (replaced it with a bigger tank from 20gallon to 32gallon) and while at it I decided to replace everything else around it (pipes, pressure switch and control box). I remember it doesn’t take very long for it to build pressure from 30psi up to 50psi (maybe 10-15 seconds). Now the issue I am having is it taking longer to build pressure (a few minutes at least). It is now to the point that I can’t even fill up the tub without going back to the pressure switch and turning that lever to get it going again. Is it my pump causing this issue now? My pump is 1/2hp, my pressure switch is 30/50 and my tank size is 32gal. Any advice will be a great help and appreciated! Thank you!
Id say since you have a 30/50 switch, your tank being new its likely got too much air in it. Kill the power,drain all the water pressure to 0. Then check air on top w pressure gauge. It needs to be 25-27psi no more. If it is above 30, then you'll know that you found the issue
Quick question: I have no pressure. Checked electrical connections. Found loose wire at top of well. Fixed and reconnected. Can hear him in pipe. 123 V on each leg. Checked amp reading L1 - 6 amps L2 - 5.9 amps. Not sure of HP or age. Still no water pressure. Any thoughts?
The pipe busted down in the well. Or a fitting broke.
Pumps running but can't lift water due to the leak.
Time to pull the pump out.
The pressure switch is a 40 -60 it's new when I turn breaker on it only goes to 30 .I turn water on it goes to 0
Have a well pump it keep pressure on the house side but when no valves are in the pump kick on pressure up to shut off it hesitate then shut off but the pressure either stay off or kick on then loses prime
What about LOTS of air in the water lines? My well is about 100', submersible pump 20 years old (don't know what brand)- the well company I have used for 30+ years is gone- I replaced water filtration system, which worked great for the first day or 2, now things are just as bad-
You probably have a bad check valve in your pump & it's leaking water from the pipe when the system is off, this happens when you have another check valve near your tank.
Watch my tank videos to know how to see if your tank is okay first. Once you figure out that the tank isn't bad, you'll know that it is the pump. Based on the age, it's time to replace the pump asap