Just did one in 3 hours on a 2002 2500HD 4x4 6.0.. Removed fender liner, dropped the front of the front prop shaft, removed O2 sensor. Did not disturb front diff. This was with a GM part. I did cut one of the original lines to get it apart as a time saver. Not a job for someone with anger management issues, lol. Edit: left front wheel off of course.
I used to try to do things without removing other parts to allow for clearance. Now with age and wisdom, I have found just tear it down to where you have room to work and put it all back together. It sucks but usually less swearing and the job gets done faster in the long run.
Man, I needed you as my teacher. This is soooooooooooo true. So much wisdom in this comment. As at DIYer, I can't tell you how many times I have made waaaaaaaay more work for myself for not following this wisdom.
After watching a few videos on this, I tackled this last night. Unplugged crankshaft positioning sensor and another something plugged in around motor mount. Clips, 2 bolts holding line to block, 1 13mm bolt holding line to block by motor mount. Installed opposite i took out. Nothing else, worked it out the back over cross member, didn't take that long. 2009 silverado 2500 4x4. Did spring for felpro gasket for block.
Great video. This deserves more likes. Probably has 90k views from angry 4wd owners trying to figure it out and only 650 likes because it’s not 4WD. Myself, an angry 4wd owner
Excellent video. The labor rate says 6.9hrs flat rate so I have to roll up my sleeves. Alldata says drop front differential so your video is spot on. I am ready to start my oil cooler line replacement now . Your video is such a time saver for anyone who is doing oil lines. A++!
Excellent! Thank you for a direct to the point video that doesn't ramble on about the process! Appreciate a direct - here's how you do it video without any extra bullshit!
Saw a post with a guy that carefully cut off the factory crimp where the rubber meets the metal line (where they almost all typically leak). He then installed some 3/8" high pressure trans hose (400psi) and clamped it. Cheaper and probably a much better fix.
Everyone makes this seem so hard but all you need is to bend the 90° to a 45 like the other line, where it goes under mount. Then get two people and pull it through. I did this on 4wd and didn't remove anything but oil line.
They also leak where the 2 lines come together in the bracket for ppl that can’t seem to find where the leak is. And if you have 4 wheel drive which is more of a pain drop your exhaust that’s over by the oil filter or driver side so it comes out easier through the back by twisting as you go.
rydplrs I took the exhaust off where it connects to the manifold down by the tranny. It’s good to have a torch to heat them up quick and they come apart but I didn’t have to. I anti seize everything I take apart so later it’s not a problem for the future if it has to come apart again.
mxr I have torches too, but in the road salt zone they don’t always win. I’m not sure why you took the y pipe off unless you have aftermarket exhaust. There was plenty of room to get by.
I just replaced gasket. Pretty easy. Most time was spent cleaning the areas of crud. Ran for a while while looking at it. Didn't see any fresh oil leaking. Hopefully that did the trick
While your video is good quality, your like the 4th video not to show the actual install, which now I feel there's a good reason. "BECAUSE it really sucks" try removing and installing lines with a 3500WT with a plow frame. Now that would be a video i would love to see if the tech doesn't blow is brains out trying to get new lines on. I can testify to the fact that Never again will I ever replace these oil lines on this beast!
If your truck has a six inch lift it’s a easy job. My six inch lift move the front diff down 6 six inches and the diff top mount is cut off due to the lift and front diff mounts from the bottom side. Which then makes this job a breeze.
Do not replace oil lines with new ones will also just leak. Install this part and eliminate the oil cooler lines which isnt needed and save a bunch of hassle and $. Amazon ict part www.amazon.com/ICT-Billet-Cooler-Engines-551621Z/dp/B089631RX9/ref=sr_1_28?dchild=1&keywords=ict&qid=1604164284&sr=8-28
On 4wd its not so bad. Just unplug 4wd solenoid, undo plastic rivet holding that wire to the axle, undo plastic rivet on drivers side by pumpkin, unbolt both driver side axle mounting bolts, loosen the pass side almost all the way, remove bolt holding harness to front lower side of engine, remove knock sensor connector, remove sleeve from connector, wiggle and bring the oil filter side out from the front.
Mine just started leaking. Does this just happen because of dry rotting hoses or is there some other mechanical issue that I need to start thinking about.
Mine is leaking from the block that bolts to the engine. There's a allen head plug and it's leaking from that plug, do you know what's in there. My next oil change I'm going to drop it down and try to tighten it but if that doesn't work I'm going to remove the plug to figure out what's wrong with it. I've already replaced the gasket.
Oil cooler lines are on the driver side. Tranny cooler lines are on the passenger side. Plenty of vids to watch. Worst part of the job is the oil residue underneath the car you deal with snaking the line thru the chassis. Have a potable led work light and head gear light. Wear safety glasses and backlava head wear to keep from getting your face oily and dirty from falling debris. Since you'll have the skid plates off, use engine degreaser and blue dawn soap solution to power Wash the Undercarriage. I bought the line from AutoZone due to the lifetime warranty. $32 + tax. You can get it done and save money.
@ghostyAutoDetailing Sounds like yours is a transmission cooler line leak. The oil cooler is on the driver's side of the radiator. Same process for both the transmission fluid and the engine oil cooler lines.
The “plug” on the block of mine is leaking. Is there an o-ring behind it, or should I just tighten it? Anybody have that before? I already replaced the gasket where it mounts to the engine block. I can literally watch the drips from from that plug.
Are you talking about the ‘plug’ coming off the radiator? If so did you install the o-ring on the nipple of the metal line? Having a leaking issue with a brand new radiator & new oil cooler lines.
Mine are leaking on my 18. If I take the driver wheel off and the wheel well cover as long with the splash pad do you think that will help make it easier? I too have the 4WD
here you go! www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15203890-Original-Equipment-Engine/dp/B0049Z85JK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=15203890&qid=1552327430&s=automotive&sr=1-2-catcorr
Is this part Ok for a 2003 ?? 2500HD 4WD 6.0L Gas … RockAuto shows ACD#15203890 but no reference to new & improved part. UA-cam says remove engine mount bolt also, lift engine ?? Thx, fixing for this lady shown... @@johnmills837
I 2007 Silverado same body type and I just swapped the 4.8 to the 6.076 engine which is an option in some of the Silverado 1500 between 0709 my oil cooling lines don’t run into my radiator and I just got a newer high and radiator should I run them through the radiator for the 6.0 is that the better option
Just did one in 3 hours on a 2002 2500HD 4x4 6.0..
Removed fender liner, dropped the front of the front prop shaft, removed O2 sensor. Did not disturb front diff. This was with a GM part.
I did cut one of the original lines to get it apart as a time saver.
Not a job for someone with anger management issues, lol.
Edit: left front wheel off of course.
This method worked well for me. Thanks for the tip!
That's how I plan on doing mine. Was the O2 sensor easy to remove?
@bigredjohnson6921 O2 was easy to remove. And I'm in Iowa where everything is corroded. I have a good Snap-On O2 socket though.
I used to try to do things without removing other parts to allow for clearance. Now with age and wisdom, I have found just tear it down to where you have room to work and put it all back together. It sucks but usually less swearing and the job gets done faster in the long run.
Man, I needed you as my teacher. This is soooooooooooo true. So much wisdom in this comment. As at DIYer, I can't tell you how many times I have made waaaaaaaay more work for myself for not following this wisdom.
After watching a few videos on this, I tackled this last night. Unplugged crankshaft positioning sensor and another something plugged in around motor mount. Clips, 2 bolts holding line to block, 1 13mm bolt holding line to block by motor mount. Installed opposite i took out. Nothing else, worked it out the back over cross member, didn't take that long. 2009 silverado 2500 4x4. Did spring for felpro gasket for block.
Great video. This deserves more likes. Probably has 90k views from angry 4wd owners trying to figure it out and only 650 likes because it’s not 4WD. Myself, an angry 4wd owner
Excellent video. The labor rate says 6.9hrs flat rate so I have to roll up my sleeves. Alldata says drop front differential so your video is spot on. I am ready to start my oil cooler line replacement now . Your video is such a time saver for anyone who is doing oil lines. A++!
Excellent! Thank you for a direct to the point video that doesn't ramble on about the process! Appreciate a direct - here's how you do it video without any extra bullshit!
Saw a post with a guy that carefully cut off the factory crimp where the rubber meets the metal line (where they almost all typically leak). He then installed some 3/8" high pressure trans hose (400psi) and clamped it. Cheaper and probably a much better fix.
MMGJ09 until the other 3 crimp fittings fail.
Everyone makes this seem so hard but all you need is to bend the 90° to a 45 like the other line, where it goes under mount. Then get two people and pull it through. I did this on 4wd and didn't remove anything but oil line.
I work at Fisher Auto Parts and we supply Dorman brand retaining clips for this job
They also leak where the 2 lines come together in the bracket for ppl that can’t seem to find where the leak is. And if you have 4 wheel drive which is more of a pain drop your exhaust that’s over by the oil filter or driver side so it comes out easier through the back by twisting as you go.
mxr I didn’t drop the exhaust, I had the other manifold off a month ago and broke 2 bolts. I wasn’t doing that again.
rydplrs I took the exhaust off where it connects to the manifold down by the tranny. It’s good to have a torch to heat them up quick and they come apart but I didn’t have to. I anti seize everything I take apart so later it’s not a problem for the future if it has to come apart again.
mxr I have torches too, but in the road salt zone they don’t always win. I’m not sure why you took the y pipe off unless you have aftermarket exhaust. There was plenty of room to get by.
I just replaced gasket. Pretty easy. Most time was spent cleaning the areas of crud.
Ran for a while while looking at it. Didn't see any fresh oil leaking. Hopefully that did the trick
this video was very helpful thank you so much.
Great video and commentary. Thanks for the help.
“Pretty easy procedure”
4WD model has entered the chat.
Kbmotors does something exactly like this and it made it way easier to do say thanks I’m saving you time
I just grabbed a block off plate off a 5.3, boom plow trucks ready to go!
The oil won’t get cooled and it makes my truck very sluggish when the oil heats up
While your video is good quality, your like the 4th video not to show the actual install, which now I feel there's a good reason. "BECAUSE it really sucks" try removing and installing lines with a 3500WT with a plow frame. Now that would be a video i would love to see if the tech doesn't blow is brains out trying to get new lines on. I can testify to the fact that Never again will I ever replace these oil lines on this beast!
I did my lines and exhaust manifold bolts and gasket at the same time pulled motor mount out of the way whole job was 2 hrs on a 4x4
Thank you 🇺🇸
You skipped past all the problems that are part of this job. …. Not at all simple, nearly impossible to get to the 13 mm retaining clip.
Especially for 4x4 models definitely not a easy task very tight spaces
If your truck has a six inch lift it’s a easy job. My six inch lift move the front diff down 6 six inches and the diff top mount is cut off due to the lift and front diff mounts from the bottom side. Which then makes this job a breeze.
It's easy on a hummer lol
Probably a dumb question but I was just curious if you had to jack the truck up to replace the line?
would this be the same procedure on a 2004 escalade? its got the 6.0 vortec obv but is all wheel drive. thanks for the video
Do it on a 4WD and let us know how you make out.
All of my fleet trucks are 2wd. But I feel for you!
Man Work... doing one right now...
What a pain on a 4WD.
i dont now haw to maket out , me to
Lower the front axle is the easiest and fastest. Four bolts and drop down an inch or two. Then in slides the lines and block.
Do not replace oil lines with new ones will also just leak. Install this part and eliminate the oil cooler lines which isnt needed and save a bunch of hassle and $. Amazon ict part www.amazon.com/ICT-Billet-Cooler-Engines-551621Z/dp/B089631RX9/ref=sr_1_28?dchild=1&keywords=ict&qid=1604164284&sr=8-28
On 4wd its not so bad. Just unplug 4wd solenoid, undo plastic rivet holding that wire to the axle, undo plastic rivet on drivers side by pumpkin, unbolt both driver side axle mounting bolts, loosen the pass side almost all the way, remove bolt holding harness to front lower side of engine, remove knock sensor connector, remove sleeve from connector, wiggle and bring the oil filter side out from the front.
Mine just started leaking. Does this just happen because of dry rotting hoses or is there some other mechanical issue that I need to start thinking about.
Is the same process for 2016 GMC Sierra 1500? Yes, it’s a 4WD, is there anything I need to remove to make it easier?
Mine is leaking from the block that bolts to the engine. There's a allen head plug and it's leaking from that plug, do you know what's in there. My next oil change I'm going to drop it down and try to tighten it but if that doesn't work I'm going to remove the plug to figure out what's wrong with it. I've already replaced the gasket.
Where did you find that oil cooler. My parts guy said he couldn’t find it
My 4.8L oil pan has provisions for an external cooler, Id like to have a factory unit. Mytruck had a stock trans cooler but I want an oil cooler
Would be nice to see how you took the lines out.But you didn't do anything with the video on that.If you're gonna show a job show it all , thank you
Did you reset the password afterwards
You literally skipped the one part that people want to see... how do you get the old one out and the new one in???
Are the radiator connections on the passanger side? I have a leak on the pasanger side bumper I believe and idk where it's comeing from. 6.0 gas 2001.
Oil cooler lines are on the driver side. Tranny cooler lines are on the passenger side. Plenty of vids to watch. Worst part of the job is the oil residue underneath the car you deal with snaking the line thru the chassis. Have a potable led work light and head gear light. Wear safety glasses and backlava head wear to keep from getting your face oily and dirty from falling debris. Since you'll have the skid plates off, use engine degreaser and blue dawn soap solution to power Wash the Undercarriage. I bought the line from AutoZone due to the lifetime warranty. $32 + tax. You can get it done and save money.
@ghostyAutoDetailing Sounds like yours is a transmission cooler line leak. The oil cooler is on the driver's side of the radiator. Same process for both the transmission fluid and the engine oil cooler lines.
What is line leaking connected from oil pan to back of alternator its leaking in isuzu sportivo 2007
Was planning on doing this on my awd denali but the horror stories have me thinking I'm just gonna take the 100$ warranty deductible
The “plug” on the block of mine is leaking. Is there an o-ring behind it, or should I just tighten it? Anybody have that before? I already replaced the gasket where it mounts to the engine block. I can literally watch the drips from from that plug.
mine is leaking there too, did you learn anything?
Rick Sciranko I’m still waiting on a o ring kit to come in
milesff7 I just got done with mine used and 11/16 ID by 7/8 OD 3/32 thickness O-ring
Rick Sciranko awesome. Thank you!
Are you talking about the ‘plug’ coming off the radiator? If so did you install the o-ring on the nipple of the metal line? Having a leaking issue with a brand new radiator & new oil cooler lines.
You didn’t cover the most difficult and important pArt of the job!
I wish I had 2wd, my 4wd just took about 6 hours.
Yes what a PITA for 4WD.
Mine are leaking on my 18. If I take the driver wheel off and the wheel well cover as long with the splash pad do you think that will help make it easier? I too have the 4WD
Well shit, it takes a 10mm. I guess I can't do it.
HAHAH!
What part # is this
here you go!
www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15203890-Original-Equipment-Engine/dp/B0049Z85JK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=15203890&qid=1552327430&s=automotive&sr=1-2-catcorr
Is this part Ok for a 2003 ?? 2500HD 4WD 6.0L Gas … RockAuto shows ACD#15203890 but no reference to new & improved part. UA-cam says remove engine mount bolt also, lift engine ?? Thx, fixing for this lady shown... @@johnmills837
@@dianeholycross The ACD#20828695 works on the 1500 GMT800 trucks. The HD 2500's might need the longer hose length of the ACD #20828694
would this part work on an 01 chevy tahoe 2wd. im trying to retrofit on to a truck that didn't have one oem but i have the spots for it to hook up
You explained nothing. Clearly a 2wd
Waste of frigen time 😒
I 2007 Silverado same body type and I just swapped the 4.8 to the 6.076 engine which is an option in some of the Silverado 1500 between 0709 my oil cooling lines don’t run into my radiator and I just got a newer high and radiator should I run them through the radiator for the 6.0 is that the better option