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Silverado 2500HD 6.0 Vortec Oil Cooler Lines Replacement
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- Опубліковано 2 гру 2016
- Replacing the oil cooler lines on the 2002 Silverado 2500HD with 6.0 Vortec V8. This might have slowed down the drivers side leak but still have a few more.
Things that might help with a project like this:
Oil Cooler Lines: amzn.to/2LiWdei
Oil Cooler Gasket: amzn.to/2PDuaa6
Oil Cooler: amzn.to/2PBvSc1
This video contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and buy, I'll receive a small commission.
Just did one of these today, you don't need to remove motor mounts, driveshafts, oxygen sensors, fan shroud, the tire, exhaust, tail lights, sunroof, or anything else anyone says has to come off. Only things that need to be removed are the two plates under it, plastic and aluminum skid, 1 bolt for the wiring loom near it and take the clip in the middle off before tugging and twisting.
Some tips: It comes out from the back, it goes in starting at the back.
Take the old one off without cutting it out like people suggest. That way you end up twisting/tugging/and shaking it out and can just reverse the process and yes it is a nightmare thats pretty much impossible to explain in steps. It's easier to pound on the old one and get an idea of the process to put it back in so you're not beating the shit out of the new one.
This goes quite a bit easier with one person in front and one in back, it can be done alone though.
At one point pulling it out, when the rear metal/hose connection is in the motor mount you may think it's stuck and need to shove it back and try something else. You need to kind of jiggle it back and fourth short and fast creating like a kind of vibration and it slowly comes out little by little then pops out.
When you start getting pissed off stop, take a moment and look at the hose it's curves and the hole and think about your next move, imagine where everything will go if you pulled it this way, or twisted it that way. Make small goals like getting it out or putting it back in an inch at a time and slowly you get there.
Take the clip off the new one before you even try to contort the damn thing back through, mount it back on when the hoses are hooked back up.
Tape the caps on and aluminum block up before trying to wiggle the new one through or you're going to end up with clumps grease/dirt and assorted other shit inside the new one.
Have booze nearby cause if it's your first one of these you will want drink heavily when it's over.
Oh and that damn bolt holding the middle clip on. 2 people or you'll want to hang yourself after a few hours. 13mm socket connected to a ujoint then like 2 feet of extensions. 1 guy with the ratchet from the wheel well and another guy under the truck getting and keeping the socket on the bolt.
Jason S moving the exhaust does make it a lot easier and or just the sensor then it pulls right out
Thank you for taking the time to type this out very helpful info 👍
To Jason S.... I have seen some suggestions in repair/replacement vids that only none callused-clean hands have typed out and people have only been doomed for paying attention to them. You Sir, deserve a 30 rack! Your post had actual callused, grim under the nails, busted knuckles, gritty sweat in the eyes experience behind it. It's extremely hard to explain something like automotive workings but you slammed it in the head with that trusty ballpien hammer that never misses it's mark.
With some jobs you just have to get in there and make it happen without creating more work for yourself with removing parts that could possibly break once disturbed. The customer doesn't like spending extra money on parts they didn't need in the original job description.....some unexpected Ooooo Shit situations do occur in the wild, I've heard tails of such random experiences!
Thank you Jason S I'm in the middle of this job and frustrated as hell. Doesn't help that it is 28 degrees outside and I'm doing this in my drive way. Really appreciate the advice!
Just did my tonight and your right out the back the only thing I did was remover the wire loom bolt and the o2 sensor I took my time and it came out and again take your time and get it back in ! Thanks for the info man !
Spent one hour on this job and realized I needed research and came to these videos. Read the comments. The next day, I spent an hour and a half and the lines were swapped. Disconnect nothing at all except the oil cooler lines at both ends including the bracket in the middle. Radiator lines come towards the ground by shuffling, rotating, maneuvering and positioning the engine end of the cooler lines through the engine mount area. At one point, moving the lines towards the rear, I had to rotate the engine end of the lines near the transmission, but the key is to remove the entire oil cooler line on the left side of the drivetrain. Not the right. The new lines go in the same way on the left side of the drivetrain and reverse procedure. Expect to be greasy, patient and with a love for mechanics to do this job this way.
Did this job in under an hour... 4x4 model front pumpkin, drive shaft and exhaust in the way... Start by discounting the two front lines from the cooler. Then pop them both off the retaining clip, look at the new lines to see how to pop the lines off the clip. Now you can access the 13mm bolt from under the front of the vehicle. Remove the bolt get the clip off you will need every MM of space to pull this off. Next go to the back area where the block is bolted to the engine and remove the O2 sensor right behind it. Remove the two bolts that hold the block with the lines connected to it there's also a metal gasket get that off too if it gets stuck to the block , I think 10mm on those bolts. All this time taking note how the line is routed. Now cut the rubber part of the lines from the front go back under and pull the block\lines backwards towards O2 sensor you removed it will come out pretty easy since you don't have to deal with the bent lines in the front. You could also just cut the lines everywhere to get them out easier if they get stuck. Now take off the two rubber connection protectors off the new lines and save them for later. Tape off the two push in front connectors and the mating surface of the block, also on he new lines, tape them well to protect them they will take a beating. Take the clip off the new lines also. Install the new lines in from the back towards the front. Here is the main trick when pushing and routing the lines from underneath you can actually position yourself to reach around and push you hands into the motor mount area and grab the ends to help push\pull and feel what your doing with them to help manipulate them. This part took me 5 min, this is the part I'm sure everyone struggles hours with. Just pushing them from the back side would make it very very difficult. Basically I was grabbing the back of the lines and the front of the lines at the same time and just twisted and pulled them through, very easy with two hands working together. PS no lift just a jack and a jack stand, not very long arms either so anyone can do this.
I wanted to let you know that these comments saved me some time/frustration. I removed the front driveshaft and o2 sensor and then fed everything in from the rear. 20 minutes to remove the old one and 20 minutes to push in the new one. I had my truck on a lift which made a huge difference for angles and wiggle room, but it may be doable from the ground too.
Well I just finished this aggravating job. Unfortunately it was on my driveway, floor jack and two jack stands. Not sure the magic some of you used. But I did cut the line so much easier. Removed tire, radiator shroud, inner wheel well. About 7 hrs later including going to get the part it was finished and all buttoned up. Thanks for your posts.
Fixed my leak, thanks for the advice on not changing the lines and just the gasket. Still leaked after the gasket, realized it was the plug on side of the mounting block that attaches to the motor. Cut a piece off of a 3/8 allen wrench to tighten in place on the truck.
Glad to help.
That same plug was leaking on mine too. Its gotta be a weak point. I changed out the o ring and that oil cooler gasket too since I was there
Thanks! I just did this on a 2002 Yukon Denali AWD with the 6.0 engine. I did NOT: raise engine, drop axle, disconnect driveshaft. I DID: take skid plate off, and loosen wire harness in front of route for lines to get more space. This is one bolt (wire harness) which I saw in a different video. Also was able to talk to a GM mechanic who said you can route these through but it is difficult. Took my a while but next time I could do it more quickly. Routed the new lines back to front. Some rotation necessary. Generally routed them as close to the center of vehicle as possible within the route. Put cardboard against radiator fins to protect them from lines when installing/routing. To remove old lines, clipped rubber hoses with garden shears and cut tubbing near engine connection with reciprocating saw. To get fan off held water pump "pulley" with strap "wrench" (one other video a guy used chain wrench). Replaced water pump at the same time......no more oil leaks or antifreeze leaks. That bolt for the bracket holding the lines is a challenge. Loosened while under car mainly with feel. Then removed through the wheel well with the driver's side front jacked up. Put it back through wheel well with "wobble" socket attachment fitting and then discovered I could get at it from the top with a 3/8 inch flex head socket drive. Still difficult. I did not have a lift. Used jack stands and jacked up driver's side front.
have 2001 gmc 2500 hd 4x4 with the 6.0 just did this job you must take the clip off that holds the two lines then you can wiggle the lines out the back side. might cut them to make it a less of a pain to get out . I did take inner wheel well out so I could get to things better. you don't need to drop driveshaft or loosen any motor mounts and jack up motor like some say . take clip off new lines then route them in from back side of motor between driveshaft and exhaust run them under motor mount and hook up lines. I ended up leaving the clip off the lines myself . hope this helps some folks . I will also post a vid soon
Mine was leaking at the crimp where line is pressed to block. I cut the lines about 6” towards engine and removed leaking block. Harvested a block from a new line set with lines cut as needed and used 1/2” compression couplers to connect. Some fiddling but 1 hour job. Rest of line set was in excellent condition. No leaks.
Ok guys, here's my post.
Thanks for the upload 🤝
Ok guys I was able to make my post.
Just completed oil lines. It is difficult but i removed power steering pump and fan and front drive line at differential and feed line from back to front went easy. 13 mm 1/4" drive reach in from front to get at middle bolt. Also power steering hoses are to be changed every 20,000 mile, i know but that is what they say. Just bit the bullet and stop the leaks. Have fun and it didnt take me 2hr. Im a plumber
This was a bit of a hassle to say the least. I ended of cutting the old line out because I was getting flustered trying to wiggle it out. I have a 03 sliverado 6.0 and to get the new line in I took the front driveshaft out of the yolk on the front axle. I just let it rest on the exhaust pipe, I didnt need to take it completely out. That gave me a straight shot, and after about 3 hours of wiggling I was able to get it in. In short not a fun job.
Just finished this repair. It’s 4 bolts to drop the diff about an inch, get the fan cowl out and then take the front driveshaft loose and it makes this significantly easier. I also pulled the tire and plastic wheel well out so I could get at it from that side.
If you can phone a friend for feeding the lines through, it’ll make it way easier to have a person at each end. Also I fed the lines under the front bumper, then brought them around between the radiator and the fan.
Saves you from having to bend your hard lines at all.
This repair is a brass plated bitch. Don’t take it lightly.
Thanks for making this video man.
I've thought about doing this factory mod on my 06 4x4 Yukon with the 5.3 next time I replace my radiator. I've always known running the metal lines was the hardest part. About the oil pan, I know on my 2wd 5.3 GMC sierra GM removed the oil pan and replaced it under warranty when my truck was new; they simply unbolted the cross member. I haven't paid attention to my Yukon with the 4wd and torsion bar set up.
I don't think you can unbolt the cross member on the 4x4. It's welded on one side I think. It looks really tight to me. I would have to see one off to believe it. I think I will just pull the motor at some point. With the lift it's not too difficult.
Also that 13mm bracket bolt you get from wheel well. It's right under block ground. 24 inch extension.
Yeah if you have 2wd that works
Quick Tip. I've done these. Mitchell gives 1.90 hours plus an additional .30 for skid plate. The only way to achieve this time is lowering the front differential (4 bolts) and remove front half of the t-case driveshaft. Literally 1 turn and the lines are out. No fighting. And I agree its Bullshit that the dealer does not provide new clips.
I have a lift on this truck now so the front diff it dropped down. Should make for an easy replacement if these start to leak.
Mike Koehler , I am about to do this on a 05 Denali 6.0 AWD you cite 1 twist, can you elaborate more before I begin? I already have the front different loose and oil pan off so it should be easier.
if you have the diff hanging and oil pan off it will be gravy. Even with the oil pan on and the diff hanging its one twist if you are going from front to back.
Mike Koehler so it's best to run the lines from radiator to the rear as I suspected. I am on the ground no lift. just jack stands. Do you recommend the removal of the O2 sensor or no? Any insight on the transmission cooler lines?
No you dont need to remove the o2 sensor. And yes start at tge radiator and work ypir way back.Transmission lines are a little easier. Make sure you match the correct trans cooler lines to the right holes.
Thanks for the tip. Just picked up the gasket for 6$. I'll try that first
The o ring on the bolt on the side of the cooler block can sometimes leak too. Just had my 99 do that. I will try to get a video up on that.
I just replaced the oil pan gasket and the oil cooler line gasket. But before I even cranked her up, I can see oil seeping down from between the trans and the block onto the oil pan gasket. So I'm going for the rear main next. I unbolted the torque converter cover and I was full of oil. The part is cheap but the alignment tool is expensive from what Ive seen. I found an alignment tool on SacCityCorvette for about $40 but Im not sure It will work on my 03 2500Hd. They have a youtube vid ua-cam.com/video/mzkD1_b_LAs/v-deo.html. Check it out if you get a chance
If you are pulling the trans there is another place that leaks other than the rear main. It's a plate on the back of the motor. I saw a video on it awhile back when I was chasing my leaks. Might be a good idea to change that too. The oil pan gasket really slowed my leaks to almost nothing so I stopped.
Im planning on changing that one too. I can get both as a set on Amazon for $20. Truck has 201k. Last weekend I replaced the knock sensors. My rear one was rusted slap up. All in all it wasn't to hard . Cleaning off the top of the engine under the intake manifold took the longest. It was nasty. One other thing for some reason My transmission was in 2nd gear limp mode with no dtc, turns out it was a bad ignition switch. not the lock cylinder but the ignition switch just in case you ever encounter that.
Very interesting.
OMG this was the most irritating replacement I had ever done. But now (knock on wood) I should be able to clean all the years of crude off the underside to see if I a leak free. Thank you for the video and the heads up on the painful install.
A very tight install for sure. These helped my oil leaks but still have something else leaking.
@@mossman381 was it the oil pan gasket leaking as well?
@@adamkorekach9936 I did oil pan and these lines. It did help with some of the leaking. I might have had a oil pressure sending unit leaking or maybe even a rear main. I never did get to them but the truck didn't leak that bad.
I have the same set from Dorman and it came with new clips .
Go in through the engine bay to unbolt the 13mm bolt in the bracket. it's impossible underneath if you have an AWD Denali.
I know this old but my lines came with new clips. I think because of how they package it they can easily fall out in transit.
The leak above the starter could possibly be the crankshaft position sensor. It has an o ring that gets brittle. If you replace it and don't have it calibrated, the new one it will throw P0300 random misfire code.
Thanks for the tip.
Rusty H oil is dripping down my starter. Im gonna look into that. Thanks for the tip
I just had this done on my 05 Silverado 2500hd, cost me $507.00 ,they used gm parts which was 3 times more than advance auto. I have already had to have all break lines and trans cooling lines replaced because they all rotted out, still need all the power steering lines and one ac line which blew out last summer after finally replacing the wiring harness for the heater fan that burned up,i know it was a recall but my truck apparently wasn't affected by the recall.. i had all 4 calipers and rotors replaced 3 times in rear and 2 times in front and now have a left front caliper seizing and had to have the exhaust manifolds replaced which already look like they are 20 years old. I have owned many vehicles in my life and have never seen anything like this and my truck hasn't even seen 60,000 miles yet and don't even want to talk about the po300 code...LOL
I think you are getting ripped off by whoever you are taking your truck to. Those brakes should be good for 100k miles. Dad is just on his second set of brakes with 320k miles. He has a 04 Silverado 2500HD.
@@mossman381 The original lines on these truck were made with a special Chinese alloy that contains Alka-Seltzer they melt on contact with water. unfortunately its the same for every line in this vehicle and most of the metal under the truck too. Made me never want to buy a GM vehicle again..
Just did this myself with the transmission out for rebuild. No need to drop anything but that 13mm bolt took an hr to put back on….lol
I did these on a 2003 2500. I removed the front drive shaft, that helped with access but still a pain to do
I didn't feel like removing the driveshaft would help. There was an oxygen sensor that I would have like to remove but thought it might cause more problems. Probably could have removed it.
mossman381 it helped me see better plus helped when fishing the lines through
When I did mine, I found the plug in the back of the block for the cooler lines had a leaking gasket. I didn’t need the whole line set.
Wow, that looked like a PITA! It's funny how oil seeps down all the cracks and crevices until it finds a place to drip so it makes it so hard to pinpoint. They make a dye you can add to help find leaks but you need the UV light too. Pulling the motor wouldn't be a bad idea if you're planning on keeping it for a few years.
Wasn't and easy job at all but got them in. Never tried the dye before but have seen it.
Not sure about how yours is, but I saw on The Car Doctor that the 6.0 has a valley cover that can leak. The one he worked on was leaking a quart a day!
farmboy30117 I wanted to pull the intake when the fenders were off but never got to it. I will find the leak eventually. I am not having to add oil to the truck yet so it can't be leaking that much.
I took mine out after pulling the oil filter. With some twisting and fiddlefocking, it came right out
Just did mine yesterday, it's a pain but it fits barely. lol
Best one
So tell me what would a job like that cost parts and labor
Would that leak be noticeably big puddle or something small ?
Did you put the replacement line in from the front of the truck or the back of the truck?
I've seen the oil pressure sensor on the back of the intake leak too. Ha I think it was that , it's been a while. I don't want to do that one. Nice vid..
Probably going to pull the motor at some point and do the oil pan and rear main seal. Wish I could have taken the intake off while I had the fenders off. I know GM likes to put that oil pressure sender in the back.
Is there a screw on the side of the cooler I just found out mine is dripping is it the gasket or the lines
I chased same type of leak. Oil pressure sending unit and lifter valley cover gasket... It still leaked 😭 it was the rear main seal
I never completely stopped the leak, but it really slowed down. I was ok with some leakage because it's an old truck.
might want to take a look at that front brake line under the rad running to the passenger side looks really crusty,Also the oil leak is definitely the rear main
Brake and fuel lines are on the list.
got that snow coming your way mossman
Already here. I think we got 3". Pretty hard to plow with the ground not frozen.
Pull drivers inner fender way more access pull the 3 bolts out of engine mount jack engine up on exhaust cross over pipe it comes rite out
Your supposed to drop the front axle diff loosening the bolts but not all the way
Just did this horrific replacement.. ill throw in my 2 cents. Set your vehicle on javk stands and grab another jack place it on the oil pan with a 2x4 or something similar. Raise the jack and that will creat the space you need to feed the lines through. After i did this took me less than 30 mins. Didn't have to drop the pumpkin at all
It's the line block thats leaking I did mine gasket that wasn't it
I have an 11 awd denali and it looks like I might be able to slip in from the top.
Dorman lasted 2 years before it started leaking. 3 years needed clamps now leaking bad AC Delco now
Mine are leaking. Not real bad. My truck is lifted now so it will be a lot easier to replace these with the axle out of the way. I don't think even the ACDelco lines will stop the leaking. The crimp seems to be a weak point. It needs to be done a different way.
@@mossman381 Later lines 20828695 fit GMT800's also Lines are configured to have less stress at the hose couplings (less bend)
@@timesup6386 Yes, GM 20828695 for a 2007 up LS engine 4.8-6.2L GMT900 body work. They shortened the steel lines that go to the radiator where the hose coupling crimps. They have more gradual bend much less than the older design line.
@@mossman381 I cut the tubing and flared the ends and used quality hose clamps.
Had I known how stupid this job was, I would never have done it. I did figure it out though. All I did was disconnect the front of the front driveshaft and I was able to do it. It was 10x harder getting the old one out, ended up bending the shit out of it in the process. The new one slid right in, my only issue was getting the top line to go up between the motor and radiator vs straight forward or down. I did it alone in just under 3 hours.
If you don't do any heavy duty stuff, I would recommend just getting a blockoff/bypass plate and call it a day. Wouldn't even have to fully remove the old line.
I like what your doing with this truck are you gonna store your dully for the winter? That what I'm doing with my cummins I bought a winter beater blow truck for 500$ and fixing it up. Also you should make a video on how to mount and wire light cube reverse lights.
Dually is still my plow truck. Just put some reverse lights in the dually a few videos ago ua-cam.com/video/kg1ND4DQHHc/v-deo.html
My 5.3 does not have the oil cooler line. Do the 6.0s even need it? You could just install the block plate like the 5.3 and eliminate the additional leak point altogether
Oil cooler is very good thing to have. Especially when towing.
@@mossman381 I get it. I have a 6.0 suburban that leaks from the same lines. Just seems like a vulnerability. Installing a high volume oil pump would also push more oil and carry the heat away quicker like the cooler without creating an additional leak point
Did you drain all of your oil before hand
Video is old so I don't remember exactly. I don't think I drained the oil. I thought I said in the video what I did.
I know this video is old but could i install these same lines on a 5.3 2wd 1500 truck? Im upgrading my radiator and water pump so I’d have more room to work with and by looking at my oil pan there is a block off plate on top of my oil filter where they could bolt on to.
You will have to look up your truck and get the right parts.
Mine is liking from the allen bolt they don’t sell just the o ring from that allen bolt? 😩
you can pull the bolt and measure the o-ring. The parts store should have an o-ring assortment with different sizes to match it up.
There’s no reason why you can’t reuse the old clips on the cooler lines at the Radiator connection. As long as you don’t destroy them while pulling them out, it’s just spring steel. they don’t rust.
Also, there’s no need to remove that 13 mm bolt, holding the clip to the side of the block either. The cooler line simply snap out of that clip and pop back in when you put the new one in just remember to remove the new clip on the new line before slipping it through and reuse the old clip that still bolted to your block. It’s a simple as that .
Everything seems so simple when you type it out. When you start working on a rusty truck, things aren't so easy.
@@mossman381 very true. I didn’t think about rust. You are correct
Did you switch out the o-rings at the radiator or just use the same ones and clipped back in the new lines?
It's been a long time but I think your lines should have come with new o-rings. I would change them out.
I'm trying to find new o-rings and it's being a pain finding them
I had a leak at the quick connects at the radiator and put an oil cooler delete kit. Just a plate with a channel that covers the holes on the block and connects them to make a circuit. I don't tow very often...
I wouldn't eliminate the oil cooler. As oil gets hot it looses it's ability to protect the engine as efficiently.
mossman381 I'm sure it does help cool the oil but I've had a few half ton 5.3l's that came from the factory without the oil cooler. In my opinion the oil cooler is for heavy duty towing and increasing the trucks top capabilities, but isn't needed for general use..
I don't think I have seen one without the cooler.
mossman381 If you get a chance look up radiators for a 2001 5.3, they don't even come with ports for an oil cooler.
I have oil in the radiator and low of oil in the pan
Oil cooler in the radiator probably cracked inside. If this has happened you will need a radiator and I would do a coolant flush and an oil change just to be sure nothing is contaminated.
Did you have to drain the oil first?
Been so long I don't remember. I thought I said in the video. Pretty sure I didn't drain oil.
ready for the snow tomorrow
Didn't even know snow was coming. Only says 1-3". They have said that a few times now and we get nothing.
mossman381 hope we get some, Been long enough
I am not going to hold my breath :)
We're there any o rings or seals in the connections to the radiator? Ive had a steady drip at the connection since I replaced the radiator, the lines are in good shape too.. I would really appreciate your help this leak is very unsightly..
There are o rings inside the fittings on the radiator. If you don't wreck them getting the lines out usually they can be reused.
mossman381 it's been awhile but I think the original o rings were split, I bought a general o ring set and replaced it. The connection never felt like it even seated properly, but won't pull out withiut removing the c clip. Do you have any ideas for a remedy? Or an idea of where to get the exact o ring? Much appreciated.
Why cant you just change the gasket
You can and I would recommend trying that first.
Do they purge air through automatically when the oil pump works?
Yes, just install the lines and fire up the truck. You will loose some oil.
loosen the diff bolts on that side so they are hangin by a couple threads and the lines come out much easier
I put a 6" lift so they are super easy to change now :)
So you were able to get to the bracket bolt through the front end?
Someone says wheel well, someone says drop the axle. What a pain
Might be able to remove part of the front crossmember but it's still a hard job to get it in.
I’m doing one right now I can’t get the new one in
You mentioned the o rings may need to be replaced. Did they send new ones or were the old ones o k
The O-rings in the radiator seemed to be fine. If you don't destroy them pulling and putting the lines back in they should be good.
Once again the GM engineers make this job a pain for a guy to do this job in a home shop.
I wouldn't change them out unless they were completely gone. Very difficult job.
I just did this this weekend. It was such a frustrating task getting the old line out and new one in. Trying to get all those bends thru the engine mount was insane. We ended up taking the front driveline off and the 02 sensor on the drivers side so that I could twist the block around and worked it through. After I got it all back together, the lower mount leaked and spewed out oil all over the ground. I put the clips back in but something didnt seal right. I am frustrated to hell right now and thinking about just installing a stand alone oil cooler with proper worm gear hose clamps.
Sorry to hear you are having troubles. Did you put a little oil on the quick connect fittings before installing them? You may have damaged the O-ring in when taking it out or putting it back in. You have to be really careful with those.
Someone opened that package. I just got the same part and it had 2 caps and 2 new clips.
IS there a reason just a gasket replacement wouldn't fix this?
I would suggest trying that first unless your lines are leaking.
@@mossman381 I tried just the gasket and it seems to be holding well. The huge problem I had was I snapped off one of the bolts when reinstalling. I found 4 new grade 8 bolts the right length size and pitch at Lowes for $3, but then I had the problem that broken off one up in there and it was on a 4x4 so very little room. I was able to drill it with a right angle cordless and get an extractor on it but I was sweating having to drop the front axle and pull the whole oil pan. The unbroken fastener was stretched too, so if you do just try a gasket make sure you get new bolts too.
my line has a hole , I think I might get my mechanic buddy to do it at his shopim not too sure if I can fix this in my driveway
You really need to remove more parts than I did. It's a hard job even with the truck in the air.
Did you put it in from the front to back. Or back to front
@@chachifeere Pretty sure back to front. The block won't fit between the oil pan and crossmembers.
Okay cause I’ve read a few people say they only moved the front drive shaft and oil filter and didn’t have much of a problem
@@chachifeere I remember struggling pretty bad. Don't remember the driveshaft being in the way.
You guys are all self-masochists. Just cut the tubing back 3-5" from the manifold elbow and about the same from the fittings that come out of the radiator. Do a bubble flare. Slip on some quality high-temp rated hose (Parker or Gates, etc.) and stainless steel Made-In-Usa hose clamps. Done.
This is what I did on my '05 Denali AWD. As you mention, very important to use high quality hose clamps.
Did you get a fel pro gasket or the original
I honestly don't remember. This was done a long time ago. Either gasket should work. Felpro makes good gaskets.
@@mossman381 the fel pro gasket worked even though it didn't have the o rings on the inside like the original I also changed the oil pan gasket but it's still leaking out of one of the corners
@@zachariahmagallan5738 I changed out all mine as well and still ended up with a small leak. Not near as bad as it was. Could be a rear main leak or possibly a leak on top of the motor. Oil pressure gauge. I never did anymore looking.
This should be much easier on a 2wd truck right?
Yes, without the front diff in the way it should be a little easier.
It would have taken me about 3 hours less on a 2wd so yes.
remove the 3 outer motor mount bolts,Jack up motor,can fit cooler thru.
For the HD series of trucks, the oil cooler is probably very useful, especially if towing heavy loads. On my Escalade, I just bought a block off plate. $15, and done. Getting the old lines out of the way enough to install the block off plate was a pain. I still have the lines in the truck. I need to cut them up, and pull them out. I think the actual install procedure calls for dropping the front differential a few inches, and unhooking the motor mount, and jacking up the engine on the driver's side. It really makes it not worth it to replace these cooler lines. Just block it off, and save yourself a lot of hassle.
I can be done without dropping differential or motor mount. Push and pull while twisting. 4WD will need to drop driveshaft at yoke.
What the torque spec for the two bolts
Not sure but mine came off pretty easily. Probably in inch pounds. It just snugged them up and gave them a quarter turn or so.
Don't want them too loose and you don't want them to tight. Lol..
100 inch pounds is what I used on mine.
You sound like Freddy Roach
Are they gm lines or aftermarket?
It's in the video.
Sorry I wrote that after i hit enter you showed the part number.
Why not spray the bottom of the truck down with degreaser, clean it really well, and run it for 15 mins or so until you see a drip? It looks like oil is coming from about 10 different places and with it so dirty under there it will be hard to pinpoint
The leak can only be oil cooler lines, oil pan gasket or rear main. I can't do the oil pan or rear main without pulling the motor. Possibly the oil pressure sender on the back of the motor. Would have to pull the intake to do that. Oil cooler lines looked pretty cruddy so replacing them really doesn't hurt anything. Yes, a lot of work and hard to install but possibly stopping future problems.
mossman381 Yeah rear main is not a job I'd like to take on. My mom has an 05 tahoe that looked like it was starting to seep around the oil pan gasket so that job will probably be in my future at some point but it has about 100k less than this truck on it. I agree the oil cooler lines didn't hurt I just like to know for sure. if it's the pan gasket that's not the end of the world, but if it's a rear main I'd probably just keep putting oil in it for a while.
I thought you could pull the pan without pulling the motor. Pretty sure you can on the 5.3
I would have to see someone pull the pan while the motor was still in the truck. It looks very tight.
mossman381 A good friend of mine works at the Chevy dealership and he told me that it's possible on the 5.3. I'd have to ask him about the 6.0. I could probably get the official GM procedure if you're interested
change the valley pan gasket and the oil sending unit.
Yup, I will do those things when I do the intake gaskets this truck needs.
Well thanks for nothing. "I don't know how I got them in there." For the record, remove LH motor mount pins and lift the left side of the engine about 1-2".
I doubt you got nothing out of this video. What you should have gotten out of it is this is probably not your leak and just replace the gasket. My new lines are leaking just like the old lines at the crimps. Some have lowered the axle to get more room.
No need to disrespect the guy! All you gotta do is bend the lines a little and they'll slide right in just like he said .
Use some brake cleaner to clean up the area to help diagnose where the leak is coming from after you replaced the oil lines
That really won't help when you have multiple leaks which I think I have. This did stop a lot of the leak though. Still leaks but not that bad. When parked overnight on cement there is only a small drip from something. I am guessing oil pressure sending unit or maybe rear main. Something towards the back of the motor. someday I will pull the intake and look around and see.
i cant stand that yes put the new clips in like WTF.. you have new lines so the gally Oring should not be bad? hmm i have seen the wrong gasket to the block before idk
2007 and older is first gen 2008 and up is second gen. i just don't know any more it could be different now
The new clips SUCK!!! And the O-ring wasn't leaking so it must be good??? Common sense HELLO!!!!
I thnk I need a new oil pan now.
Also should replace jiffy tite connections at radiator
If you are careful taking them out and don't hurt the o-ring you can reuse them. I have done quite a few and have not had any leaks.
mossman381 I know they don't immediately leak they are just problematic
The lines are known to leak not the fittings that go into the radiator. I have never seen those fittings on the radiator leak. If you don't hurt the o-ring in those fittings you should be able to reuse those.
Yes they do. I've changed them multiple times. They are trans fittings too. Cadillac had a huge problem with them going bad on transverse models. 3/8 jiffy tite leak ALL THE TIME. Oil lines are 1/2 maybe little more resilient but still leak.
The lines ALWAYS leak not the fittings going into the radiator. You must be wrecking the O-rings when you install them because I have never had a problem with those fittings leaking. If you install the line dry you have a very good chance you will wreck the o-ring. I always use some lube when installing anything with an o-ring seal.
I just did this and it was a bitch well went and helped somone on one and it was a bitch win the dont remove the shit that needs to be taken off so if i was anyone else i would do it the easy way
i just changed all three transmission lines tonight , stupid clips !!!!!!!!!!!
Those clips are aggravating.
Dorman should thank GM for this crappy design. They’ve made a killing in aftermarket industry on these things. The transmission cooler lines also. It’s stupid GM has used this same basic shit design for decades. And yeah when I did mine I got both the GM and Dorman parts. The GM parts were packaged like crap (ends not taped, just thrown in a box, etc) and didn’t come with new clips. The dorman parts appeared much higher quality for cheaper so I installed the Dorman lines and got a refund on the GM parts.
oil cooler lines were leaking on my 6.0 liter dualie, another shitty GM design
I think every GM truck on the road has leaky trans and oil lines.
yep, hard to believe oil cooler lines could rust out!!! transmission cooler lines too!, but i still love my dualie
drop the diff down
That would help a lot.