Again ,a great video. Well shot ,no jerky, quick movements , no rushed speeking . Finer points explaned . Us old guys need all the "splanen" we can get . You just saved me a bundle ,as I can handle this myself ,thanks a bunch .
You’d think someone would’ve made some stainless braided hoses that thread right into the oil filter adapter, thusly eliminating the quick disconnect junk.
Great job Jimmy. I cannot believe how clean is the underside of your truck. Here in Michigan everything would be rusty, and some screws are a nightmare to remove.
Don’t sweat it to bad. Everything leaks on my 01 Yukon 5.3 and it’s still runs great lol currently fixing everything 1 by 1 😂. Thanks for the video man 👏
Sold a 1995 Ranger 2.3 with 240k miles. No leaks whatsoever. Bought my 1998 Suburban, with 214 k miles and multiple leaks. Still love the Suburban, and will be great once I fix the leaks including those oil cooler lines.
Kurt Watson yeah gm seems to always have leaky trucks/SUV’s . There’s a reason people love the Yukon/suburban/Tahoe line more than the Explorer / expedition though. If you can get past the leaks and fixes here and there they are reliable
"This panel"...that's a skid plate! Just yanked a pair off a 90s Suburban at the junkyard a few weeks ago to put on my 97 Tahoe. Front diff and transfer case. Ten bucks each. Cleaned them up and they looked brand new. Helluva deal! Also I love your channel.
After watching your video, I decided to have my mechanic do this job. We agreed that the o rings to the filter housing would be replaced as well. Welp, the "kid" ended up doing the repair and didn't replace them, so it leaked and now they are fixing the fix for free. All good though. He's getting experience and I didn't have to do it. Thanks for your videos!!
I just did this job yesterday on my 97 Tahoe 2-door. So far so good! This video was such a tremendously helpful reference. Thank you Jimmy! Tackling the intake manifold gaskets today...
Thank you very much for explaining SO MUCH about how the oil cooler line connections work! You showed very in depth and detailed instructions on how to fix and troubleshoot this complicated issue and gave me a lot more understanding!
Jimmy, if you make your title more descriptive like how to fix oil cooler line on a Chevy suburban you will show up in the searches on UA-cam and get more view and possibly new subscribers.
Enjoyed the video. One of my lines developed a massive leak while driving on I95 and I didn't notice until the 4.3l in my 2000 Chevy Astro seized in traffic and nearly gave me a nervous breakdown. Now I'm screwed. You are right. They have to figure out a better manufacturing process.
I deleted the entire oil cooler system in my 97 5.7. I replaced it with standard SBC oil filter adapter and eliminated the lines and filter housing. A short PF454 filter provides enough clearance so that the front drive shaft doesn't make contact with it. I am glad I did it.
What great timing. I was about to replace the oil cooler lines and filter adapter gasket on my 1998 GMC Suburban. Local shop wants nearly $400!I'll tackle it myself and save $350. I'll be using that money for a LOUD muffler and dual tail pipes to complete the dual exhaust.
Around 13 years ago my 97 Ram 1500 started leaking at the same points. I cut the lines off at the metal using a metal bit on my multi tool. Flared the ends of the metal with a brake flare kit. Then used some hose and hose clamps I bought at AutoZone. Still not leaking 13 years later. Edit: ram has 389k miles on it. It gets used a LOT.
I wish I would have watched your whole video. Just finished the job and same thing, leaking from both fittings. Tomorrow I’ll be buying new ones! Thanks!
They are not relatively the same ... notice @ 1:00 the old, previously replaced line shown, has two crimps which are slightly larger than the Dorman crimps @ 1:21 which have 3 crimps, which are a bit more narrow but provide a more effective crimp as the definition of those 3 narrower crimps are much more defined which should provide better sealing between the metal and the rubber. I am going on 5 years with my Doorman replacements and no leaks. Originals started leaking around 290k miles. AN fittings and braided hose as suggested by Groundhogz, will eliminate leaks long term.
Nice video! I think you will have good luck, doorman makes some pretty good quality parts. Don’t see too many factory engine oil coolers anymore. I actually added one to my 03 Silverado 5.3 though because I do a lot of towing and hauling. I upgraded to a larger radiator with ports for both transmission fluid cooling and engine oil cooling. As well as I also have an individual external cooler for each, that the fluid passes through after going through the radiator and before going back to where it came from either the engine or transmission. This setup really keeps my temps down I love it. When I installed it originally though I did have to replace all of the line fittings like the two you had to replace. Most of them looked absolutely perfect so I tried reusing them at first but that was a no go, half of them started leaking so I just replaced all of them so I wouldn’t have to deal with it later.
The 4.3L S10 uses similar lines but with quick connect fittings at the rad. They all fail at the metal to rubber crimp. I used Napa's house brand aka Dorman lines with lifetime warranty. They last about 1.5 years before leaking again, replaced both lines about 5x with free replacement over the years. Waited too long on the last set and one crimp failed completely at a drive-thru, pumped all the oil onto the ground and seized the engine. The GM lines have no warranty but last 3-4 times longer in my experience, been using those ever since. I don't know if I would have had a legal case against Dorman for the failure since it had been leaking for a while before letting go.
At least you were at a drive thru. My failure occurred on I95 going through Hartford, CT and my 4.3l Astro seized in the middle lane. Talk about stress.
2nd to Doorman products. Aftermarket has gotten better over the years. Even surpassing the OE product. You got lucky too, my 99 has a clip to hold the lines in the oil filter housing connectors
Strange to see this is a common thing. I just took over my dad's 94 suburban about five years ago and he's never mentioned it leaking from the transmission oil cooler lines. Hmmm....... Great now I have to come out late at night and take a peak. BTW the 5.7 has 270k, best engine ever.
Toyota and Lexus have a similar problem with their rubber hoses failing and leaking. They redesigned their oil cooler lines to an all metal lines . I just had mine replaced yesterday under warranty. It’s not a recall , just a technical service bulletin. Which means they only replace them if they are leaking. You should look into having steel braided hoses made up for your vehicle.
@1Road if they fail again, slice the factory crimps off with a dremel to expose the barb connector on the metal tube. Reattach the hose with ear clips. (Oetiker or similar) Use 3 clips per connection and it won’t fail again. You’ll need the special crimp pliers to install them.
Thanks for the tip. I found the double crimp to pretty much last the life of the hose, but I guess this guy didn't. I just replaced a set of these lines off a 1999 Tahoe. They looked original and they weren't leaking, just part of a bigger overhaul. It's a little unnerving to see them fail that quickly, if I find myself in that situation I will definitely use your idea, thanks.
Wasn't even looking specifically for my truck, a 94 k1500 with badly leaking lines (it's at 300k miles so not too bad, idk when/if previous owners changed them). My mom's friend changed the engine side ends and didn't properly seat them, and I was checking to see if there's anything extra I might need to know to get them right. First video I clicked on, and I learn what a problem it is with these lines 😂 mine also failed at the crimp point, lol.
I bought a 09 Sierra with 200k miles. I found the transmission cooler lines were leaking from the same area. After some research I learned this is very common. People have replace them only to have them leak after a few years. I removed the leaking lines cut the crimps off flared the ends of the lines and reinstalled them and ran TOC hose using band clamp to secure them. All it took was a couple hours a flaring tool, cut off wheel and $10 worth of hose.
Good luck with those quick connect fittings. Little plastic tabs hold those lines in. They love to break, blow the pipe out and wala you have no oil pressure and a bad engine. Replace them with the updated connector used for 96+ 5.7 vortec engines. Has a metal clip to also hold the line in. Another option is getting rid of that quick connect mess altogether and going with a flare fitting.
Parking lot looks extremely familiar you must live in Portland! Lol I have the same exact truck but a Chevy version, Your truck incredible shape for 95. She clean!!!
How come when you started the suburban...it took a few times turning over to start. Fuel pressure. Pump issue. Injection issue. ? Just curious. Good work info on oil cooler line. I got replace mine. New fittings yes. 1994 c2500silerado suburban. Still going strong
Great video! This helps so much! I could not figure out how to get those plastic connectors off. I thought I just needed an oil housing gasket.. but my problems seem to match yours so I think I need new connectors and cooler lines too. Thanks for the video!
I've seen too many examples of problems with these gm oil lines. The quick connects can become brittle and the hose swage fitting remains a question mark to me. Are swages overcrimped, or is there a bad match between fitting and hose spec? I can't say - I'd have to see these at assembly time. Like most hydraulic fittings, there is an ID and an OD spec: if they don't match well, reliability issues lurk. Best bet? Get whatever adapter fittings may be needed for that filter housing, and run your own tubing and hose - the original parts suck. Keep ID the same or slightly larger, as in going from 3/8" to 12mm or some such. Keep hose location & length similar, as it serves to dampen vibrations/take away flex problems that would plague a purely hard piped system with insufficient offsets. Your o-ring blues... remind me of why I love swagelok so much: there are none!
Ive gone through 3 motors in 97 1500 silverado. Dorman is not barbed where they are crimped. They just blow off where the hose is crimped. Not out of the quick connector.
I wrote to Dorman a few weeks ago just to tell them that it has recently come into my understanding that everytime I reluctantly "had" to buy one of their parts (due to no other choice available), the part was always as good, if not better, than the original part I was replacing. In fact, many of the Dorman parts that I've purchased over the years were obviously reengineered to fix the manufacturing problem with the OEM part, just like the multiple crimps on the hose you're changing out. I truly believe Dorman is one of those overlooked companies that saves a LOT of mechanic and DIYer's asses, and they don't get any credit for it because their parts are on the floor in a display, not behind the counter-where real men shop. Just sayin'.
And sometimes you get smoked using dorman parts. I bought a lower intake manifold for a gm 3800 that was absolute crap out of the box. My son-in-law bought a dorman turbo charger that crapped the bed after two weeks. For my money and big stuff, go OEM.
4:28 You identify the source of the oil SEEPAGE, but don't name the root cause, other than GENUINE GM parts are designed to fail after four years of use. It would be an interesting video if you carefully cut the crimp off the oil line fitting and removed the hose. What's inside? Any ridge on the tube for hose to seal against? Perhaps the hose being used is not rated for use with synthetic oil??? How do TOYOTA or LEXUS implement crimp connections that do not leak after four year? Next time in junkyard, remove a hydraulic line from a LEXUS, and bring it home to dissect.
That middle space, between the crimp points in the center of the fitting on the end of the hose, is bubbled out farther than the other inbetween spaces between crimp points. Since ive done that several times where I work, i can tell you why it happens. When the fitting is crimped, its not seated correctly in the crimping machine. Ive just noticed this on my 94 k1500 and those cooler fittings look like they werent crimped correctly also. I might try to stick braided hose in there and make my own hoses.
My 1997 k1500 p/u is parked waiting for me to tackle this job. I’m not looking forward to it for the same reason, the ultra tight space. I’ll be replacing the gasket and o ring on the oil filter adapter housing while I’m under there. Using all acdelco parts. 352,000 miles on her 5.7 and she runs great.
AMAZING VIDEO BRO,THANK YOU FOR SHOWING ALL YOUR WORK AND STRUGGLE,AND YOUR SMART FOR PUTTING THAT DORMAN FITTING ON THE SIDE WHERE IT WAS ORIGINALLY LEAKING, I HAVE A 1997 CHEVY SUBURBAN 5.7L C1500 AND CHANGING THE OIL PRESSURE SENSOR WAS A BITCH !! ,I DIDN'T REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR, I JUST REMOVED THE HOOD AND THE EXHAUST SYSTEM,PLUS A FEW SPARK PLUG WIRES AND MARKED THEM SO I WON'T FORGET THE FIRING ORDER, I BOUGHT A OIL PRESSURE SOCKET FROM AMAZON 1 1/16 WITH A 3/8 DRIVE ,BUT THE SOCKET WAS LIKE A 1/4 SHORT, I BOUGHT ANOTHER ONE FROM AUTOZONE AND THIS ONE FIT ,BUT IT WAS A 1/2 DRIVE SO I HAD TO BUY A SMALL EXTENSION FROM 3/8 DRIVE TO A 1/2 DRIVE AND USED IT ON A 6" INCH RATCHET I SEEN A VIDEO WERE SOME PERSON USED ONE TOOL THAT WAS CALLED HARLEY DAVISON WRENCH.WELL I COULDN'T FIND ONE, BUT I FINALLY GOT THE OLD ONE OUT AFTER TWO DAYS OF STRUGGLING.THANK YOU AGAIN FOR SHARING YOUR VIDEO.
thank you for this video of replacing an oil cooler lines that really help me to follow all what you did. I would like to ask something about a rear heater vent are not having warm air, just only in the front. Do you have a video for fixing that problem. I have the same model off your truck 454. I really appreciate if you help me to see that link.
Use a small mirror to view into the fitting and fish the o ring out. The place the new o-ring on the plastic tab seated prior to install. Smear with oil prior.
I had to do the transmission and oil cooler lines on my Silverado. I ordered the Dorman and equivalent AC Delco parts for both to compare. The Dorman parts were packaged a lot better, the ends were taped, etc. The AC Delco parts from GM were just thrown in a box. I sent the AC Delco parts back for refund. Oh and the Dorman came with all of the clips and the AC Delco did not.
Thanks for the video I just picked up my dad's 94 c2500 4x4 silverado and I notice the oil cooler lines were leaking I haven't done the oil change but might as well change everything
The fix is to either A. Use all metal lines next time, or B. cut off that crimped part and just use a hose clamp. It's not gonna see more than about 60psi.
@@Ashroyer86 the lines flex. If your engine and trans are moving that much, you have other issues. OEMs have used metal lines for decades without issues
@@JohnDoe-ml8ru not without issues. Why do think this guy said the line keeps going. I've had to replace 1 before as well. Can it get the job, yes will it last, possibly. Is it 100%, not in my book. I try to do things the right way not a get me down the road type way. You do whatever you want but I'd rather tell people the correct way.
Great video well done on the filming and good coverage on the specifics of the job just discovered a leaky coolant line on my 2011 Silverado right where the crimp connection is...😟 but at least now I have an idea what I'm in for thanks for the video
Just purchased 95 4 x 2 suburban this is my fourth suburban this one has roughly hundred thousand on it one owner, and experiences with a 5.7 Vortex bottom knock and I feel that replacing the oil pump can give longevity to the motor. This one doesn’t have the knock just yet but do you feel it can only help?
So when your temp fix fails and your oil all pumps out onto the ground while your tooling down the highway with your tunes cranked up you can buy a new motor? Don't get too clever with engine oil lines, the new ones aren't that expensive.
Good video amigo I have a 94 chevy 1500 5.7 so I follow your information and I do by my self is really easy thanks amigo long life to you sorry for my English by the way
Mine did the same thing. Theres plastic sleeves in there that fall out when you pull the lines. Just find the sleeves and slide them back on before pushing them in the adapters
I replaced my oil cooler lines about 2 months ago with the doorman part. Yesterday I was driving in the mountains and i had a catastrophic oil cooler line failure. Engine suddenly lost oil pressure from dumping all its oil in about 20 seconds. I pulled over and shut the engine off then attempted to fix the issue and my LQ4 is seized now
How did you find the full lines? I can't find the full line anywhere! I have checked everywhere and they all have only the rubber line and one side of the metal line.
Some Napa’s make hydraulic lines you could have them build you custom oil cooler lines they’ll last the lift of the truck and then some, a bit costly but totally worth the price, we’re talking double braided steel triple rubbered I might make a video on it for my 95 Tahoe if I do I’ll let you know
9:15 Your $5000 engine is protected by 1/2 cent piece of plastic. That's the GM Way!!! Believe the missing piece of plastic is meant to keep the pipe in proper orientation, and keep stress off the O-ring. Giving DORMAN a try is a great idea given the POOR PERFORMANCE of Genuine GM (AC/Delco) oil lines. Try switching to CONVENTIONAL OIL, and see if engine quits leaking like a sieve.
It kind of sucks when parts are known to fail. GM also had the plastic piece in the heater core line that cracks and fail. The only good thing is the issue are known and with a little search you can usually find them online and if your lucky a video like this.
I have a dumb question. Is there also transmission cooler lines under there that have the same type crimped fittings? Also is your truck four wheel drive?
YES 1ROAD A VERY VERY COMMON PROBLEM. I had mine made by a specialty shop after replacing them twice. 7 years later & they look like new. I think NAPA does hoses like that ? I also went through the EXACT SAME PROBLEM YOU DID I had to change out the nipples for new ones. THE JOB WAS A PAIN IN THE ASS. My neighbor actually blew his motor up when his engine oil lines burst in his GMC.
That Suburban is looking real nice. Does it have the rear windshield wiper as well? Oldest car I have is a 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue and had a coolant leak, but I sourced it as the coolant recovery tank being the culprit (and I was right) and fixed it myself. Had to replace the coolant sensor as the cheap one in the new tank was defective (said low coolant but the tank was full hot) with the one from the old tank, swapped the O-ring gaskets, and the warning light went away, but it still does the self-,test when I turn the key to the on position. 120,200+ miles on it and running strong. Gotta fix the exhaust leak some more, replace a stud or two and the lug nuts, and fix the fuel gauge. I'll fix the ABS (hub assembly on the passenger side front is out of commission after 17 years (2018 is when it started to not work anymore), even live data showed the RF wheel was showing 0 MPH using the Autel MaxiAP AP200 Bluetooth scanner) after I get a new job as I'm unemployed.
i have a 91 suburban / overlander complete with Lyft and Raptor liner paint job 12000 lb winch battering ram bumper full size roof rack on board Air and Power conversion 2 battery electronic system..... you might want to upgrade your rear end if you plan on putting on a lift and bigger tires
Is ac Delco good for anything? I noticed my truck has ac Delco spark plugs. And I have already experienced brand new oil coolant line issue with brand new parts. It's the crimp on the hose, poor design flaw.
Dorman products range from good to bad. Plastic coolant tanks I have installed shrank and the cap pops off because threads are too small diameter. I have seen their plastic oil filter covers on 6.0 and 6.4 Ford diesels leak due to shrinkage.
I removed my oil cooler lines on mine as they would not stop leaking. And eventually I also removed the adapter. And I am now using a standard sbc oil filter. Obviously I need to use the short one.
can you romove the lines and fittings and use 3/8 plugs at the filter housing to discontinue the oil cooler, i have a 97 sierra 5.7 with 4wd and never tow anything
Take that garbage off put a screw adapter on it and run a 51069 wix filter on it and problem of leaks are gone forever..... Also doing this will eliminate the start up knock.... Did mine at 168k I have 847k on it now zero issues.
Hey, Jimmy. Just did this fix due to one of my lines failing in a similar way. Replaced the fitting with the same parts and I can’t get the fittings to stop leaking. I am using AC Delco lines. Seems to be leaking from the plastic quick disconnect. Any tips to fix this?
To design a truck where the engine oil is routed through an external radiator is asking for problems. I wonder why they did that? Our 2000 Suburban with 5.3 Vortec does not cool the engine oil externally.
@@kcscustom9759 nope. 08 2500 6.0 had the pleasure of dealing with the blow out on side of road. Cut metal ends off and spliced with some fuel injection line clamps and barb fitting. Ordered blockoff plate for the oil cooler lines.
My 96 GMC diesel PU always had a very minor leak, last month w/250K on the clock, it started leaking a quart every 40 miles! Your vid is a life saver!
Again ,a great video. Well shot ,no jerky, quick movements , no rushed speeking . Finer points explaned . Us old guys need all the "splanen" we can get . You just saved me a bundle ,as I can handle this myself ,thanks a bunch .
You’d think someone would’ve made some stainless braided hoses that thread right into the oil filter adapter, thusly eliminating the quick disconnect junk.
Great job Jimmy.
I cannot believe how clean is the underside of your truck. Here in Michigan everything would be rusty, and some screws are a nightmare to remove.
Don’t sweat it to bad. Everything leaks on my 01 Yukon 5.3 and it’s still runs great lol currently fixing everything 1 by 1 😂. Thanks for the video man 👏
I have a 97 Grand Cherokee 4.0 & same thing 1 x 1 x 1 x 1 x 3 YES IT SUCKS BUT I LOVE MY ZJ.
nowr2run amen brother. Great motor that 4.0 is. Keep her runnin
GM huum
Sold a 1995 Ranger 2.3 with 240k miles. No leaks whatsoever. Bought my 1998 Suburban, with 214 k miles and multiple leaks. Still love the Suburban, and will be great once I fix the leaks including those oil cooler lines.
Kurt Watson yeah gm seems to always have leaky trucks/SUV’s . There’s a reason people love the Yukon/suburban/Tahoe line more than the Explorer / expedition though. If you can get past the leaks and fixes here and there they are reliable
"This panel"...that's a skid plate! Just yanked a pair off a 90s Suburban at the junkyard a few weeks ago to put on my 97 Tahoe. Front diff and transfer case. Ten bucks each. Cleaned them up and they looked brand new. Helluva deal! Also I love your channel.
Just bought a 2000 Tahoe Z71 with the 5.7. 122k original miles. Luv this channel. Thanks for showing your work man!
Dorman products that I have used have always worked better than the ac delco
Nathan Manley dorman is garbage just watch the South Main Auto Channel he will definitely tell you.
After watching your video, I decided to have my mechanic do this job. We agreed that the o rings to the filter housing would be replaced as well. Welp, the "kid" ended up doing the repair and didn't replace them, so it leaked and now they are fixing the fix for free. All good though. He's getting experience and I didn't have to do it. Thanks for your videos!!
I just did this job yesterday on my 97 Tahoe 2-door. So far so good! This video was such a tremendously helpful reference. Thank you Jimmy!
Tackling the intake manifold gaskets today...
Thank you very much for explaining SO MUCH about how the oil cooler line connections work! You showed very in depth and detailed instructions on how to fix and troubleshoot this complicated issue and gave me a lot more understanding!
Jimmy, if you make your title more descriptive like how to fix oil cooler line on a Chevy suburban you will show up in the searches on UA-cam and get more view and possibly new subscribers.
Enjoyed the video. One of my lines developed a massive leak while driving on I95 and I didn't notice until the 4.3l in my 2000 Chevy Astro seized in traffic and nearly gave me a nervous breakdown. Now I'm screwed. You are right. They have to figure out a better manufacturing process.
Had the same issue after I replaced my oil cooler lines. Getting new adapters tomorrow and knocking this one out. Thanks for showing this!
I deleted the entire oil cooler system in my 97 5.7. I replaced it with standard SBC oil filter adapter and eliminated the lines and filter housing. A short PF454 filter provides enough clearance so that the front drive shaft doesn't make contact with it. I am glad I did it.
can you remove the lines and plug the oil filter housing where the lines go, 3/8 plugs
I just deleted my oil cooler lines 4 day's ago. After doing that 10 times better the oil pressure. I am so glad that I did it.
Some AN adapters and braided hose would probably make that a permanent fix.
What size? I'm interested.
@@armandomendoza3167 Go to Summit Racing’s web site and do some research or call them or work with someplace locally.
What great timing. I was about to replace the oil cooler lines and filter adapter gasket on my 1998 GMC Suburban. Local shop wants nearly $400!I'll tackle it myself and save $350. I'll be using that money for a LOUD muffler and dual tail pipes to complete the dual exhaust.
Around 13 years ago my 97 Ram 1500 started leaking at the same points. I cut the lines off at the metal using a metal bit on my multi tool. Flared the ends of the metal with a brake flare kit. Then used some hose and hose clamps I bought at AutoZone. Still not leaking 13 years later. Edit: ram has 389k miles on it. It gets used a LOT.
I had the same issue so I deleted my oil cooler lines and put plugs and went with 5w40 on my 95 chevy c1500 5.7 tbi it's working just fine great video
I wish I would have watched your whole video. Just finished the job and same thing, leaking from both fittings. Tomorrow I’ll be buying new ones! Thanks!
Thank you for this information I have the same problem with my 95 Silverado and you made it easier than expected 😮
RockAuto has both lines available. 12472278 (outlet) is $20.79 and 12472277 (inlet) is $21.79.
They are not relatively the same ... notice @ 1:00 the old, previously replaced line shown, has two crimps which are slightly larger than the Dorman crimps @ 1:21 which have 3 crimps, which are a bit more narrow but provide a more effective crimp as the definition of those 3 narrower crimps are much more defined which should provide better sealing between the metal and the rubber.
I am going on 5 years with my Doorman replacements and no leaks. Originals started leaking around 290k miles.
AN fittings and braided hose as suggested by Groundhogz, will eliminate leaks long term.
I like that you give us the parts :)
Thank you so much, my 2002 Blazer is having the same problem.
Cut the crimp collars off with a die grinder and double hose clamp lasts till the hoses completely dry rot.
This is what I will be doing. That's the permanent fix. Not doing this a 3rd time
Very interesting. That's another great video Jimmy. Glad you got those cooling lines removed and replaced. Thanks again , Bill
Good stuff Jimmy! Haven't had to do this job yet...yet being the operative word. Thanks for sharing, I'll be ready when the time comes.
Nice video! I think you will have good luck, doorman makes some pretty good quality parts. Don’t see too many factory engine oil coolers anymore. I actually added one to my 03 Silverado 5.3 though because I do a lot of towing and hauling. I upgraded to a larger radiator with ports for both transmission fluid cooling and engine oil cooling. As well as I also have an individual external cooler for each, that the fluid passes through after going through the radiator and before going back to where it came from either the engine or transmission. This setup really keeps my temps down I love it. When I installed it originally though I did have to replace all of the line fittings like the two you had to replace. Most of them looked absolutely perfect so I tried reusing them at first but that was a no go, half of them started leaking so I just replaced all of them so I wouldn’t have to deal with it later.
It is part of towing package in 03 and back to at least 95.
The 4.3L S10 uses similar lines but with quick connect fittings at the rad. They all fail at the metal to rubber crimp. I used Napa's house brand aka Dorman lines with lifetime warranty. They last about 1.5 years before leaking again, replaced both lines about 5x with free replacement over the years. Waited too long on the last set and one crimp failed completely at a drive-thru, pumped all the oil onto the ground and seized the engine. The GM lines have no warranty but last 3-4 times longer in my experience, been using those ever since. I don't know if I would have had a legal case against Dorman for the failure since it had been leaking for a while before letting go.
At least you were at a drive thru. My failure occurred on I95 going through Hartford, CT and my 4.3l Astro seized in the middle lane. Talk about stress.
Wow, Jimmy bought a part that wasn't AC Delco. Pigs must be flying...
Dorman parts are actually quality, if the dealership I worked at couldn't get OEMwe used dorman
@@bradleyfarnham2951Dorman sucks. There's a reason they're so much cheaper than anything else.
@@grendle81 They make many OEM parts including AC Delco.
2nd to Doorman products. Aftermarket has gotten better over the years. Even surpassing the OE product. You got lucky too, my 99 has a clip to hold the lines in the oil filter housing connectors
Strange to see this is a common thing. I just took over my dad's 94 suburban about five years ago and he's never mentioned it leaking from the transmission oil cooler lines.
Hmmm.......
Great now I have to come out late at night and take a peak.
BTW the 5.7 has 270k, best engine ever.
Toyota and Lexus have a similar problem with their rubber hoses failing and leaking. They redesigned their oil cooler lines to an all metal lines . I just had mine replaced yesterday under warranty. It’s not a recall , just a technical service bulletin. Which means they only replace them if they are leaking. You should look into having steel braided hoses made up for your vehicle.
@1Road if they fail again, slice the factory crimps off with a dremel to expose the barb connector on the metal tube. Reattach the hose with ear clips. (Oetiker or similar) Use 3 clips per connection and it won’t fail again. You’ll need the special crimp pliers to install them.
Thanks for the tip. I found the double crimp to pretty much last the life of the hose, but I guess this guy didn't. I just replaced a set of these lines off a 1999 Tahoe. They looked original and they weren't leaking, just part of a bigger overhaul. It's a little unnerving to see them fail that quickly, if I find myself in that situation I will definitely use your idea, thanks.
Wasn't even looking specifically for my truck, a 94 k1500 with badly leaking lines (it's at 300k miles so not too bad, idk when/if previous owners changed them). My mom's friend changed the engine side ends and didn't properly seat them, and I was checking to see if there's anything extra I might need to know to get them right. First video I clicked on, and I learn what a problem it is with these lines 😂 mine also failed at the crimp point, lol.
I suspect the missing O ring was on one of the old lines taken out 🤔
I bought a 09 Sierra with 200k miles. I found the transmission cooler lines were leaking from the same area. After some research I learned this is very common. People have replace them only to have them leak after a few years. I removed the leaking lines cut the crimps off flared the ends of the lines and reinstalled them and ran TOC hose using band clamp to secure them. All it took was a couple hours a flaring tool, cut off wheel and $10 worth of hose.
Good luck with those quick connect fittings. Little plastic tabs hold those lines in. They love to break, blow the pipe out and wala you have no oil pressure and a bad engine. Replace them with the updated connector used for 96+ 5.7 vortec engines. Has a metal clip to also hold the line in. Another option is getting rid of that quick connect mess altogether and going with a flare fitting.
Hi Dillon can you post a link where I can get the 96+ 5.7 with a metal clip?
That’s one clean burben for its age
I used dorman AC lines on my Jeep and I’m happy with them
Parking lot looks extremely familiar you must live in Portland! Lol I have the same exact truck but a Chevy version, Your truck incredible shape for 95. She clean!!!
How come when you started the suburban...it took a few times turning over to start. Fuel pressure. Pump issue. Injection issue. ? Just curious. Good work info on oil cooler line. I got replace mine. New fittings yes.
1994 c2500silerado suburban. Still going strong
Great video! This helps so much! I could not figure out how to get those plastic connectors off. I thought I just needed an oil housing gasket.. but my problems seem to match yours so I think I need new connectors and cooler lines too. Thanks for the video!
I had a 95 S10 with the same problem. I was stumped as to the exact problem too.
I'm on my 4th S-10. Had to change the oil lines on the newest 2. It's a Chevy thing I guess. Love S-10's though.
I've seen too many examples of problems with these gm oil lines. The quick connects can become brittle and the hose swage fitting remains a question mark to me. Are swages overcrimped, or is there a bad match between fitting and hose spec? I can't say - I'd have to see these at assembly time. Like most hydraulic fittings, there is an ID and an OD spec: if they don't match well, reliability issues lurk. Best bet? Get whatever adapter fittings may be needed for that filter housing, and run your own tubing and hose - the original parts suck. Keep ID the same or slightly larger, as in going from 3/8" to 12mm or some such. Keep hose location & length similar, as it serves to dampen vibrations/take away flex problems that would plague a purely hard piped system with insufficient offsets. Your o-ring blues... remind me of why I love swagelok so much: there are none!
Ive gone through 3 motors in 97 1500 silverado. Dorman is not barbed where they are crimped. They just blow off where the hose is crimped. Not out of the quick connector.
I buy upgraded aftermarket oil cooler lines for this purpose. You need to secure to lines properly from vibration.
Who makes them?
I wrote to Dorman a few weeks ago just to tell them that it has recently come into my understanding that everytime I reluctantly "had" to buy one of their parts (due to no other choice available), the part was always as good, if not better, than the original part I was replacing. In fact, many of the Dorman parts that I've purchased over the years were obviously reengineered to fix the manufacturing problem with the OEM part, just like the multiple crimps on the hose you're changing out.
I truly believe Dorman is one of those overlooked companies that saves a LOT of mechanic and DIYer's asses, and they don't get any credit for it because their parts are on the floor in a display, not behind the counter-where real men shop. Just sayin'.
And sometimes you get smoked using dorman parts. I bought a lower intake manifold for a gm 3800 that was absolute crap out of the box. My son-in-law bought a dorman turbo charger that crapped the bed after two weeks. For my money and big stuff, go OEM.
Looking into getting a Suburban or Yukon, this was very informative. Your Suburban was quite clean too, undercarriage was too.
4:28 You identify the source of the oil SEEPAGE, but don't name the root cause, other than GENUINE GM parts are designed to fail after four years of use. It would be an interesting video if you carefully cut the crimp off the oil line fitting and removed the hose. What's inside? Any ridge on the tube for hose to seal against? Perhaps the hose being used is not rated for use with synthetic oil??? How do TOYOTA or LEXUS implement crimp connections that do not leak after four year? Next time in junkyard, remove a hydraulic line from a LEXUS, and bring it home to dissect.
That middle space, between the crimp points in the center of the fitting on the end of the hose, is bubbled out farther than the other inbetween spaces between crimp points. Since ive done that several times where I work, i can tell you why it happens. When the fitting is crimped, its not seated correctly in the crimping machine. Ive just noticed this on my 94 k1500 and those cooler fittings look like they werent crimped correctly also. I might try to stick braided hose in there and make my own hoses.
My 1997 k1500 p/u is parked waiting for me to tackle this job. I’m not looking forward to it for the same reason, the ultra tight space. I’ll be replacing the gasket and o ring on the oil filter adapter housing while I’m under there. Using all acdelco parts. 352,000 miles on her 5.7 and she runs great.
AMAZING VIDEO BRO,THANK YOU FOR SHOWING ALL YOUR WORK AND STRUGGLE,AND YOUR SMART FOR PUTTING THAT DORMAN FITTING ON THE SIDE WHERE IT WAS ORIGINALLY LEAKING, I HAVE A 1997 CHEVY SUBURBAN 5.7L C1500 AND CHANGING THE OIL PRESSURE SENSOR WAS A BITCH !! ,I DIDN'T REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR, I JUST REMOVED THE HOOD AND THE EXHAUST SYSTEM,PLUS A FEW SPARK PLUG WIRES AND MARKED THEM SO I WON'T FORGET THE FIRING ORDER, I BOUGHT A OIL PRESSURE SOCKET FROM AMAZON 1 1/16 WITH A 3/8 DRIVE ,BUT THE SOCKET WAS LIKE A 1/4 SHORT, I BOUGHT ANOTHER ONE FROM AUTOZONE AND THIS ONE FIT ,BUT IT WAS A 1/2 DRIVE SO I HAD TO BUY A SMALL EXTENSION FROM 3/8 DRIVE TO A 1/2 DRIVE AND USED IT ON A 6" INCH RATCHET I SEEN A VIDEO WERE SOME PERSON USED ONE TOOL THAT WAS CALLED HARLEY DAVISON WRENCH.WELL I COULDN'T FIND ONE, BUT I FINALLY GOT THE OLD ONE OUT AFTER TWO DAYS OF STRUGGLING.THANK YOU AGAIN FOR SHARING YOUR VIDEO.
thank you for this video of replacing an oil cooler lines that really help me to follow all what you did. I would like to ask something about a rear heater vent are not having warm air, just only in the front. Do you have a video for fixing that problem. I have the same model off your truck 454. I really appreciate if you help me to see that link.
Did you put a new o-ring on the lines themselves at the housing or does the o-rings in the quick connect adapter all you need?
Use a small mirror to view into the fitting and fish the o ring out. The place the new o-ring on the plastic tab seated prior to install. Smear with oil prior.
I had to do the transmission and oil cooler lines on my Silverado. I ordered the Dorman and equivalent AC Delco parts for both to compare. The Dorman parts were packaged a lot better, the ends were taped, etc. The AC Delco parts from GM were just thrown in a box. I sent the AC Delco parts back for refund. Oh and the Dorman came with all of the clips and the AC Delco did not.
Thanks for the video I just picked up my dad's 94 c2500 4x4 silverado and I notice the oil cooler lines were leaking I haven't done the oil change but might as well change everything
So how have the Dorman lines held up after 3 years? Leaking yet?
The fix is to either A. Use all metal lines next time, or B. cut off that crimped part and just use a hose clamp. It's not gonna see more than about 60psi.
Do NOT use an all metal line.
@@Ashroyer86 and why not? Most automakers use metal lines for attaching the tranny or engine oil line to the cooler.
@@JohnDoe-ml8ru you need flex because the motor and transmission are not solid with the core support.
@@Ashroyer86 the lines flex. If your engine and trans are moving that much, you have other issues. OEMs have used metal lines for decades without issues
@@JohnDoe-ml8ru not without issues. Why do think this guy said the line keeps going. I've had to replace 1 before as well. Can it get the job, yes will it last, possibly. Is it 100%, not in my book. I try to do things the right way not a get me down the road type way. You do whatever you want but I'd rather tell people the correct way.
Always great videos Sir.
AC Delco is normally aftermarket unless it's the OEM line. The Dorman maybe the OE supplier.
Great video well done on the filming and good coverage on the specifics of the job just discovered a leaky coolant line on my 2011 Silverado right where the crimp connection is...😟 but at least now I have an idea what I'm in for thanks for the video
I know you've heard it before, SAY NO TO DORMAN.
Just purchased 95 4 x 2 suburban this is my fourth suburban this one has roughly hundred thousand on it one owner, and experiences with a 5.7 Vortex bottom knock and I feel that replacing the oil pump can give longevity to the motor. This one doesn’t have the knock just yet but do you feel it can only help?
Well mr.1Road you did a excellent job
Very good explanation !!!!!!!! Great job thanks .
I would have tried cutting off the crimp connector and removing it leaving the barb, then reinstall the hose with permetax and two worm gear clamps.
So when your temp fix fails and your oil all pumps out onto the ground while your tooling down the highway with your tunes cranked up you can buy a new motor? Don't get too clever with engine oil lines, the new ones aren't that expensive.
Good video amigo I have a 94 chevy 1500 5.7 so I follow your information and I do by my self is really easy thanks amigo long life to you sorry for my English by the way
Mine did the same thing. Theres plastic sleeves in there that fall out when you pull the lines. Just find the sleeves and slide them back on before pushing them in the adapters
I replaced my oil cooler lines about 2 months ago with the doorman part. Yesterday I was driving in the mountains and i had a catastrophic oil cooler line failure. Engine suddenly lost oil pressure from dumping all its oil in about 20 seconds. I pulled over and shut the engine off then attempted to fix the issue and my LQ4 is seized now
How well are those Dorman hoses holding up?
How did you find the full lines? I can't find the full line anywhere! I have checked everywhere and they all have only the rubber line and one side of the metal line.
Some Napa’s make hydraulic lines you could have them build you custom oil cooler lines they’ll last the lift of the truck and then some, a bit costly but totally worth the price, we’re talking double braided steel triple rubbered I might make a video on it for my 95 Tahoe if I do I’ll let you know
9:15 Your $5000 engine is protected by 1/2 cent piece of plastic. That's the GM Way!!! Believe the missing piece of plastic is meant to keep the pipe in proper orientation, and keep stress off the O-ring. Giving DORMAN a try is a great idea given the POOR PERFORMANCE of Genuine GM (AC/Delco) oil lines. Try switching to CONVENTIONAL OIL, and see if engine quits leaking like a sieve.
Do you have a video on transmission cooler line replacement
It kind of sucks when parts are known to fail. GM also had the plastic piece in the heater core line that cracks and fail. The only good thing is the issue are known and with a little search you can usually find them online and if your lucky a video like this.
Good job Jimmy that help me out a lot👍
I have a dumb question. Is there also transmission cooler lines under there that have the same type crimped fittings? Also is your truck four wheel drive?
Yes, same trans cooler lines to other side of radiator and yes, 4x4. I've noticed that one of the trans lines is starting to sweat too!
Any update on the oil cooler lines are they still working?
YES 1ROAD A VERY VERY COMMON PROBLEM. I had mine made by a specialty shop after replacing them twice. 7 years later & they look like new. I think NAPA does hoses like that ? I also went through the EXACT SAME PROBLEM YOU DID I had to change out the nipples for new ones. THE JOB WAS A PAIN IN THE ASS. My neighbor actually blew his motor up when his engine oil lines burst in his GMC.
If they leak again I will certainly have custom lines made. Thanks!
That Suburban is looking real nice. Does it have the rear windshield wiper as well? Oldest car I have is a 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue and had a coolant leak, but I sourced it as the coolant recovery tank being the culprit (and I was right) and fixed it myself. Had to replace the coolant sensor as the cheap one in the new tank was defective (said low coolant but the tank was full hot) with the one from the old tank, swapped the O-ring gaskets, and the warning light went away, but it still does the self-,test when I turn the key to the on position. 120,200+ miles on it and running strong. Gotta fix the exhaust leak some more, replace a stud or two and the lug nuts, and fix the fuel gauge. I'll fix the ABS (hub assembly on the passenger side front is out of commission after 17 years (2018 is when it started to not work anymore), even live data showed the RF wheel was showing 0 MPH using the Autel MaxiAP AP200 Bluetooth scanner) after I get a new job as I'm unemployed.
i have a 91 suburban / overlander complete with Lyft and Raptor liner paint job 12000 lb winch battering ram bumper full size roof rack on board Air and Power conversion 2 battery electronic system..... you might want to upgrade your rear end if you plan on putting on a lift and bigger tires
Is ac Delco good for anything? I noticed my truck has ac Delco spark plugs. And I have already experienced brand new oil coolant line issue with brand new parts. It's the crimp on the hose, poor design flaw.
Is it possible to replace just the O-rings instead of the whole connector?
Thank you so much!!!
Dorman products range from good to bad. Plastic coolant tanks I have installed shrank and the cap pops off because threads are too small diameter. I have seen their plastic oil filter covers on 6.0 and 6.4 Ford diesels leak due to shrinkage.
Oil cooling for the engine? Amazing!
Heavy duty oil cooler is the Chevy option
I removed my oil cooler lines on mine as they would not stop leaking. And eventually I also removed the adapter. And I am now using a standard sbc oil filter. Obviously I need to use the short one.
can you romove the lines and fittings and use 3/8 plugs at the filter housing to discontinue the oil cooler, i have a 97 sierra 5.7 with 4wd and never tow anything
Take that garbage off put a screw adapter on it and run a 51069 wix filter on it and problem of leaks are gone forever..... Also doing this will eliminate the start up knock.... Did mine at 168k I have 847k on it now zero issues.
I stopped buying AC Delco part
Just a few to many issues
I make my own now
Braided triple crimp
Better safe than sorry
I like oreilly auto parts. They seem to have decent stuff.
How much damage can leaking oil cooler lines cause? I haven’t noticed my oil go down at all and my next oil change is only 800 miles away….
Hey, Jimmy. Just did this fix due to one of my lines failing in a similar way. Replaced the fitting with the same parts and I can’t get the fittings to stop leaking. I am using AC Delco lines. Seems to be leaking from the plastic quick disconnect. Any tips to fix this?
Figured it out. ACDelco lines require ACDelco fittings to work correctly, without leaks.
There are much better available oil filters than AC Delco
Fram is NOT one of them
Like?
Yeah even the average joe think fram / oem fram ac delco filters are grabge*
*oil filters
I'm dumb I keep my engine safe with paper filters
@@PaulDukich Wix are some of the best oil filters. As Jack said, definitely *not* Fram. See project farm video about this
KN and STP for example
WIX. NAPA premium (made by Wix)
To design a truck where the engine oil is routed through an external radiator is asking for problems. I wonder why they did that? Our 2000 Suburban with 5.3 Vortec does not cool the engine oil externally.
Its usually on trucks built with tow packages. Most of the commercial trucks(semi trucks and straight trucks) on the road have oil coolers
Your point is well taken.most don't even need it.just plug the outlet.
Yes it is common on trucks/suvs with the towing package. I think gm stopped doing it in 99 though.
@@kcscustom9759 nope. 08 2500 6.0 had the pleasure of dealing with the blow out on side of road. Cut metal ends off and spliced with some fuel injection line clamps and barb fitting. Ordered blockoff plate for the oil cooler lines.
@@kcscustom9759 my 99 has them
I think a hydraulic hose from tractor supply 3/8 by 48" long 17.99 is a upgrade hose off the shelf solution. I'm going to try it out.
I always wonder what's the point of getting a truck that old with low mileage if you're going to replace everything anyway