Here's Why MY OIL COOLER LINES FAILED!! Is My Engine Smoked??
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2019
- Here's Why MY OIL COOLER LINES FAILED!! Is My Engine Smoked??
In this video I find my engine oil cooler lines are leaking again. I just had these replaced roughly 4 years ago. I figured something as detrimental to a motor as this would last longer than 4 years... I decided, because it was all that was available, to get the Dorman product and see how long they'd last me. The new lines looked great and installed just fine but I did have a problem with the old cooler line connectors. Wish I would've had the foresight to get the new connectors in the first place but at least I was able to capture it all on video and hopefully help a few of you out there!
Dorman Oil Cooler Line 625-108: amzn.to/2KP85Gs
Dorman Oil Cooler Line 625-107: amzn.to/2KNRSRX
Dorman Oil Cooler Connector 800-701: amzn.to/2ZcdRL2
Craftsman 20mm Wrench: amzn.to/2HjnX1O
Vehicle featured in this video is a 1995 GMC Suburban. This is the GMT400 platform Chevy OBS or GM OBS. Same vehicle as the Tahoe, Yukon, Sierra and Silverado.
www.1roadgarage.com
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
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Again ,a great video. Well shot ,no jerky, quick movements , no rushed speeking . Finer points explaned . Us old guys need all the "splanen" we can get . You just saved me a bundle ,as I can handle this myself ,thanks a bunch .
My 96 GMC diesel PU always had a very minor leak, last month w/250K on the clock, it started leaking a quart every 40 miles! Your vid is a life saver!
Thank you very much for explaining SO MUCH about how the oil cooler line connections work! You showed very in depth and detailed instructions on how to fix and troubleshoot this complicated issue and gave me a lot more understanding!
I just did this job yesterday on my 97 Tahoe 2-door. So far so good! This video was such a tremendously helpful reference. Thank you Jimmy!
Tackling the intake manifold gaskets today...
Great job Jimmy.
I cannot believe how clean is the underside of your truck. Here in Michigan everything would be rusty, and some screws are a nightmare to remove.
Had the same issue after I replaced my oil cooler lines. Getting new adapters tomorrow and knocking this one out. Thanks for showing this!
Very interesting. That's another great video Jimmy. Glad you got those cooling lines removed and replaced. Thanks again , Bill
After watching your video, I decided to have my mechanic do this job. We agreed that the o rings to the filter housing would be replaced as well. Welp, the "kid" ended up doing the repair and didn't replace them, so it leaked and now they are fixing the fix for free. All good though. He's getting experience and I didn't have to do it. Thanks for your videos!!
Don’t sweat it to bad. Everything leaks on my 01 Yukon 5.3 and it’s still runs great lol currently fixing everything 1 by 1 😂. Thanks for the video man 👏
I have a 97 Grand Cherokee 4.0 & same thing 1 x 1 x 1 x 1 x 3 YES IT SUCKS BUT I LOVE MY ZJ.
nowr2run amen brother. Great motor that 4.0 is. Keep her runnin
GM huum
Sold a 1995 Ranger 2.3 with 240k miles. No leaks whatsoever. Bought my 1998 Suburban, with 214 k miles and multiple leaks. Still love the Suburban, and will be great once I fix the leaks including those oil cooler lines.
Kurt Watson yeah gm seems to always have leaky trucks/SUV’s . There’s a reason people love the Yukon/suburban/Tahoe line more than the Explorer / expedition though. If you can get past the leaks and fixes here and there they are reliable
I wish I would have watched your whole video. Just finished the job and same thing, leaking from both fittings. Tomorrow I’ll be buying new ones! Thanks!
What great timing. I was about to replace the oil cooler lines and filter adapter gasket on my 1998 GMC Suburban. Local shop wants nearly $400!I'll tackle it myself and save $350. I'll be using that money for a LOUD muffler and dual tail pipes to complete the dual exhaust.
Just bought a 2000 Tahoe Z71 with the 5.7. 122k original miles. Luv this channel. Thanks for showing your work man!
"This panel"...that's a skid plate! Just yanked a pair off a 90s Suburban at the junkyard a few weeks ago to put on my 97 Tahoe. Front diff and transfer case. Ten bucks each. Cleaned them up and they looked brand new. Helluva deal! Also I love your channel.
Dorman products that I have used have always worked better than the ac delco
Nathan Manley dorman is garbage just watch the South Main Auto Channel he will definitely tell you.
I have been in the auto repair industry almost 40 years now and when people mention OEM my comment is yes OVER EMPHASIS MARKUP for sub standard parts ?
Just because it's a OEM part does NOT mean it is a high standard remember the parts are usually subcontracted to third parties to manufacture, so occasionally cost bidding wars mean they only meet manufactures specification NOT the highest quality.
Dog eat Dog profit society
My recommendation is After market custom made hoses and fittings made a a hose supply vendor and upgrade the fittings to Military or Industrial grade.
You may pay the same as OEM price but typically it will be a saving over OEM but more comparable to jobber wholesale price.
FYI the only part a manufacture makes and spends Billions on is the Owners Manual for the vehicle and Sales related Items that are printed externally ... But the owners manual is the most expensive manufactured part for any vehicle ( Information supplied by Toyota Motor Corporation )
Never let the word OEM be a factor for purchase ? Let the words highest Quality be the determining situation if the OEM failed repeatedly why continual to support there pocket and lower your integrity for high standard.
Great video and yes ALL manufactures do have some great parts they are NOT all cheap.
Great video again you have a great presents and showing educational way to your videos.
YES, I HAD MY HOSES MADE BY A SPECIALTY SHOP & NO MORE WORRIES. Some OEM PARTS JUST SUCK & SOME AFTERMARKET PARTS SUCK. Go to the forums of your vehicle & see what works or what was tried & failed that is my opinion.
NO not for safety equipment though like brake boosters etc... pads or rotors
Dorman has way too many recalls FOR important parts of the vehicle not worth the risk of buying a substandard part form dorman
i would not buy a Dorman Brake Master Cylinder, steering shaft or window switch or control arm from them
looks like they have a habit of making bad steering shafts
Dorman 86689b Electrical System Recall 07E090000
Dorman Clock Spring Assembly Air Bags Recall 16E085000
Dorman Steering Shaft Steering Recall 08E063000
Dorman Steering Shaft Steering Recall 15E082000
Dorman Steering Shaft Steering Recall 14E044000
Brake Master Cylinder Equipment Recall 13E024000
orman Control Arm Equipment Recall 12E021000
DORMAN A/C BYPASS PULLEY BRACKET
DORMAN WINDOW SWITCH 901-370
DORMAN WINDOW SWITCH 901-601
For Toyota l go with OEM for critical parts. Transmision components in my Tacoma, such as clutch disk, master and slave cylinders , are made in Japan by AISIN. I noticed that in general the AISIN and DENSO parts are way better than the aftermarkets.
@@bkucinschi Just have to be careful not to buy counterfeit AISIN or DENSO parts from unscrupulous sellers on eBay or AMAZON. What is you strategy to make sure you only get genuine AISIN or DENSO parts? Where do you shop?
@@chetmyers7041 : Just buy them from the dealership.
For my old 2006 Tacoma I did the stupid mistake to buy the headlight online for about $70 apiece. I knew they are aftermarket parts made in Taiwan, but I thought what the heck anybody can make some decent headlights. I installed them both, and after a couple of weeks we had a serious thunderstorm with a lot of rain. The headlight on the passenger side got filled with water and the bulb exploded. Ok.. got one from a Toyota dealership for $220 or so, took me 30 min to replace it (simple truck, really...). After one year it works and looks great. But the crappy Taiwan-made headlight on the driver side is now foggy on the inside, and started to peel off on the outside. Now I'll need to spend another couple of bucks.... I'm too poor to afford to buy cheap parts.
Jimmy, if you make your title more descriptive like how to fix oil cooler line on a Chevy suburban you will show up in the searches on UA-cam and get more view and possibly new subscribers.
Great video! This helps so much! I could not figure out how to get those plastic connectors off. I thought I just needed an oil housing gasket.. but my problems seem to match yours so I think I need new connectors and cooler lines too. Thanks for the video!
Some AN adapters and braided hose would probably make that a permanent fix.
What size? I'm interested.
@@armandomendoza3167 Go to Summit Racing’s web site and do some research or call them or work with someplace locally.
Enjoyed the video. One of my lines developed a massive leak while driving on I95 and I didn't notice until the 4.3l in my 2000 Chevy Astro seized in traffic and nearly gave me a nervous breakdown. Now I'm screwed. You are right. They have to figure out a better manufacturing process.
Thank you so much, my 2002 Blazer is having the same problem.
I used dorman AC lines on my Jeep and I’m happy with them
Good stuff Jimmy! Haven't had to do this job yet...yet being the operative word. Thanks for sharing, I'll be ready when the time comes.
Nice video! I think you will have good luck, doorman makes some pretty good quality parts. Don’t see too many factory engine oil coolers anymore. I actually added one to my 03 Silverado 5.3 though because I do a lot of towing and hauling. I upgraded to a larger radiator with ports for both transmission fluid cooling and engine oil cooling. As well as I also have an individual external cooler for each, that the fluid passes through after going through the radiator and before going back to where it came from either the engine or transmission. This setup really keeps my temps down I love it. When I installed it originally though I did have to replace all of the line fittings like the two you had to replace. Most of them looked absolutely perfect so I tried reusing them at first but that was a no go, half of them started leaking so I just replaced all of them so I wouldn’t have to deal with it later.
It is part of towing package in 03 and back to at least 95.
Great video well done on the filming and good coverage on the specifics of the job just discovered a leaky coolant line on my 2011 Silverado right where the crimp connection is...😟 but at least now I have an idea what I'm in for thanks for the video
Looking into getting a Suburban or Yukon, this was very informative. Your Suburban was quite clean too, undercarriage was too.
I deleted the entire oil cooler system in my 97 5.7. I replaced it with standard SBC oil filter adapter and eliminated the lines and filter housing. A short PF454 filter provides enough clearance so that the front drive shaft doesn't make contact with it. I am glad I did it.
can you remove the lines and plug the oil filter housing where the lines go, 3/8 plugs
I just deleted my oil cooler lines 4 day's ago. After doing that 10 times better the oil pressure. I am so glad that I did it.
Always great videos Sir.
Good job Jimmy that help me out a lot👍
Well mr.1Road you did a excellent job
Around 13 years ago my 97 Ram 1500 started leaking at the same points. I cut the lines off at the metal using a metal bit on my multi tool. Flared the ends of the metal with a brake flare kit. Then used some hose and hose clamps I bought at AutoZone. Still not leaking 13 years later. Edit: ram has 389k miles on it. It gets used a LOT.
I replaced with 3/8 brass fittings that allowed me to use roughly 4 feet of fuel line to completely replace the faulty factory design from gm. I regret not doing it sooner. Oil drips in the driveway are gone!
I also degreased engine after. It was astonishing the amount of gunk this oil drip caused in the engine bay and front suspension. A clean and crisp engine bay looks amazing now. I feel like it’s a new car!
2nd to Doorman products. Aftermarket has gotten better over the years. Even surpassing the OE product. You got lucky too, my 99 has a clip to hold the lines in the oil filter housing connectors
AMAZING VIDEO BRO,THANK YOU FOR SHOWING ALL YOUR WORK AND STRUGGLE,AND YOUR SMART FOR PUTTING THAT DORMAN FITTING ON THE SIDE WHERE IT WAS ORIGINALLY LEAKING, I HAVE A 1997 CHEVY SUBURBAN 5.7L C1500 AND CHANGING THE OIL PRESSURE SENSOR WAS A BITCH !! ,I DIDN'T REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR, I JUST REMOVED THE HOOD AND THE EXHAUST SYSTEM,PLUS A FEW SPARK PLUG WIRES AND MARKED THEM SO I WON'T FORGET THE FIRING ORDER, I BOUGHT A OIL PRESSURE SOCKET FROM AMAZON 1 1/16 WITH A 3/8 DRIVE ,BUT THE SOCKET WAS LIKE A 1/4 SHORT, I BOUGHT ANOTHER ONE FROM AUTOZONE AND THIS ONE FIT ,BUT IT WAS A 1/2 DRIVE SO I HAD TO BUY A SMALL EXTENSION FROM 3/8 DRIVE TO A 1/2 DRIVE AND USED IT ON A 6" INCH RATCHET I SEEN A VIDEO WERE SOME PERSON USED ONE TOOL THAT WAS CALLED HARLEY DAVISON WRENCH.WELL I COULDN'T FIND ONE, BUT I FINALLY GOT THE OLD ONE OUT AFTER TWO DAYS OF STRUGGLING.THANK YOU AGAIN FOR SHARING YOUR VIDEO.
I like that you give us the parts :)
Strange to see this is a common thing. I just took over my dad's 94 suburban about five years ago and he's never mentioned it leaking from the transmission oil cooler lines.
Hmmm.......
Great now I have to come out late at night and take a peak.
BTW the 5.7 has 270k, best engine ever.
Very good explanation !!!!!!!! Great job thanks .
I had a 95 S10 with the same problem. I was stumped as to the exact problem too.
I'm on my 4th S-10. Had to change the oil lines on the newest 2. It's a Chevy thing I guess. Love S-10's though.
Dorman I've had better luck with. Good video 👍
RockAuto has both lines available. 12472278 (outlet) is $20.79 and 12472277 (inlet) is $21.79.
Cut the crimp collars off with a die grinder and double hose clamp lasts till the hoses completely dry rot.
This is what I will be doing. That's the permanent fix. Not doing this a 3rd time
Good video amigo I have a 94 chevy 1500 5.7 so I follow your information and I do by my self is really easy thanks amigo long life to you sorry for my English by the way
Toyota and Lexus have a similar problem with their rubber hoses failing and leaking. They redesigned their oil cooler lines to an all metal lines . I just had mine replaced yesterday under warranty. It’s not a recall , just a technical service bulletin. Which means they only replace them if they are leaking. You should look into having steel braided hoses made up for your vehicle.
Oil cooling for the engine? Amazing!
Heavy duty oil cooler is the Chevy option
Glad you're going to totally build your 95 into a proper monster offroad, keep your other Suburban bone stock if you must. :)
@1Road if they fail again, slice the factory crimps off with a dremel to expose the barb connector on the metal tube. Reattach the hose with ear clips. (Oetiker or similar) Use 3 clips per connection and it won’t fail again. You’ll need the special crimp pliers to install them.
Thanks for the tip. I found the double crimp to pretty much last the life of the hose, but I guess this guy didn't. I just replaced a set of these lines off a 1999 Tahoe. They looked original and they weren't leaking, just part of a bigger overhaul. It's a little unnerving to see them fail that quickly, if I find myself in that situation I will definitely use your idea, thanks.
Damn always working on something
Good job !!
Great JOB!!!!
Ive gone through 3 motors in 97 1500 silverado. Dorman is not barbed where they are crimped. They just blow off where the hose is crimped. Not out of the quick connector.
Parking lot looks extremely familiar you must live in Portland! Lol I have the same exact truck but a Chevy version, Your truck incredible shape for 95. She clean!!!
My 1997 k1500 p/u is parked waiting for me to tackle this job. I’m not looking forward to it for the same reason, the ultra tight space. I’ll be replacing the gasket and o ring on the oil filter adapter housing while I’m under there. Using all acdelco parts. 352,000 miles on her 5.7 and she runs great.
Thanks for the video I just picked up my dad's 94 c2500 4x4 silverado and I notice the oil cooler lines were leaking I haven't done the oil change but might as well change everything
I buy upgraded aftermarket oil cooler lines for this purpose. You need to secure to lines properly from vibration.
Who makes them?
Oh snap ! Same problem as I'm having
That Suburban is looking real nice. Does it have the rear windshield wiper as well? Oldest car I have is a 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue and had a coolant leak, but I sourced it as the coolant recovery tank being the culprit (and I was right) and fixed it myself. Had to replace the coolant sensor as the cheap one in the new tank was defective (said low coolant but the tank was full hot) with the one from the old tank, swapped the O-ring gaskets, and the warning light went away, but it still does the self-,test when I turn the key to the on position. 120,200+ miles on it and running strong. Gotta fix the exhaust leak some more, replace a stud or two and the lug nuts, and fix the fuel gauge. I'll fix the ABS (hub assembly on the passenger side front is out of commission after 17 years (2018 is when it started to not work anymore), even live data showed the RF wheel was showing 0 MPH using the Autel MaxiAP AP200 Bluetooth scanner) after I get a new job as I'm unemployed.
That’s one clean burben for its age
Wow, Jimmy bought a part that wasn't AC Delco. Pigs must be flying...
Dorman parts are actually quality, if the dealership I worked at couldn't get OEMwe used dorman
@@bradleyfarnham2951Dorman sucks. There's a reason they're so much cheaper than anything else.
@@grendle81 They make many OEM parts including AC Delco.
Thank you so much!!!
The 4.3L S10 uses similar lines but with quick connect fittings at the rad. They all fail at the metal to rubber crimp. I used Napa's house brand aka Dorman lines with lifetime warranty. They last about 1.5 years before leaking again, replaced both lines about 5x with free replacement over the years. Waited too long on the last set and one crimp failed completely at a drive-thru, pumped all the oil onto the ground and seized the engine. The GM lines have no warranty but last 3-4 times longer in my experience, been using those ever since. I don't know if I would have had a legal case against Dorman for the failure since it had been leaking for a while before letting go.
At least you were at a drive thru. My failure occurred on I95 going through Hartford, CT and my 4.3l Astro seized in the middle lane. Talk about stress.
Great job, I replaced my radiator fans with Dorman's three months ago and haven't had issues. At first I was skeptical because I read mixed reviews of them but so far so god time will tell.
From my experience I have had great results with aftermarket parts I think that there are much better quality brands than OEM specially when it comes to Japanese brands. THANKS FOR THE VIDEOS.
Great video
That middle space, between the crimp points in the center of the fitting on the end of the hose, is bubbled out farther than the other inbetween spaces between crimp points. Since ive done that several times where I work, i can tell you why it happens. When the fitting is crimped, its not seated correctly in the crimping machine. Ive just noticed this on my 94 k1500 and those cooler fittings look like they werent crimped correctly also. I might try to stick braided hose in there and make my own hoses.
They are not relatively the same ... notice @ 1:00 the old, previously replaced line shown, has two crimps which are slightly larger than the Dorman crimps @ 1:21 which have 3 crimps, which are a bit more narrow but provide a more effective crimp as the definition of those 3 narrower crimps are much more defined which should provide better sealing between the metal and the rubber.
I am going on 5 years with my Doorman replacements and no leaks. Originals started leaking around 290k miles.
AN fittings and braided hose as suggested by Groundhogz, will eliminate leaks long term.
Good luck with those quick connect fittings. Little plastic tabs hold those lines in. They love to break, blow the pipe out and wala you have no oil pressure and a bad engine. Replace them with the updated connector used for 96+ 5.7 vortec engines. Has a metal clip to also hold the line in. Another option is getting rid of that quick connect mess altogether and going with a flare fitting.
Hi Dillon can you post a link where I can get the 96+ 5.7 with a metal clip?
I removed my oil cooler lines on mine as they would not stop leaking. And eventually I also removed the adapter. And I am now using a standard sbc oil filter. Obviously I need to use the short one.
AC Delco is normally aftermarket unless it's the OEM line. The Dorman maybe the OE supplier.
Mine did the same thing. Theres plastic sleeves in there that fall out when you pull the lines. Just find the sleeves and slide them back on before pushing them in the adapters
👍✌️😎 excelente video.
thank you for this video of replacing an oil cooler lines that really help me to follow all what you did. I would like to ask something about a rear heater vent are not having warm air, just only in the front. Do you have a video for fixing that problem. I have the same model off your truck 454. I really appreciate if you help me to see that link.
I think a hydraulic hose from tractor supply 3/8 by 48" long 17.99 is a upgrade hose off the shelf solution. I'm going to try it out.
How come when you started the suburban...it took a few times turning over to start. Fuel pressure. Pump issue. Injection issue. ? Just curious. Good work info on oil cooler line. I got replace mine. New fittings yes.
1994 c2500silerado suburban. Still going strong
It kind of sucks when parts are known to fail. GM also had the plastic piece in the heater core line that cracks and fail. The only good thing is the issue are known and with a little search you can usually find them online and if your lucky a video like this.
I had to do the transmission and oil cooler lines on my Silverado. I ordered the Dorman and equivalent AC Delco parts for both to compare. The Dorman parts were packaged a lot better, the ends were taped, etc. The AC Delco parts from GM were just thrown in a box. I sent the AC Delco parts back for refund. Oh and the Dorman came with all of the clips and the AC Delco did not.
Use a small mirror to view into the fitting and fish the o ring out. The place the new o-ring on the plastic tab seated prior to install. Smear with oil prior.
I wrote to Dorman a few weeks ago just to tell them that it has recently come into my understanding that everytime I reluctantly "had" to buy one of their parts (due to no other choice available), the part was always as good, if not better, than the original part I was replacing. In fact, many of the Dorman parts that I've purchased over the years were obviously reengineered to fix the manufacturing problem with the OEM part, just like the multiple crimps on the hose you're changing out.
I truly believe Dorman is one of those overlooked companies that saves a LOT of mechanic and DIYer's asses, and they don't get any credit for it because their parts are on the floor in a display, not behind the counter-where real men shop. Just sayin'.
And sometimes you get smoked using dorman parts. I bought a lower intake manifold for a gm 3800 that was absolute crap out of the box. My son-in-law bought a dorman turbo charger that crapped the bed after two weeks. For my money and big stuff, go OEM.
For the first time jimmy ain't YELLING lol 😄
Yea that's the first
I like oreilly auto parts. They seem to have decent stuff.
I suspect the missing O ring was on one of the old lines taken out 🤔
I know you've heard it before, SAY NO TO DORMAN.
Take that garbage off put a screw adapter on it and run a 51069 wix filter on it and problem of leaks are gone forever..... Also doing this will eliminate the start up knock.... Did mine at 168k I have 847k on it now zero issues.
What do I do if mine is leaking from the part you screw the oil cooler line into on the radiator?? Is there anyway to fix that without replacing the inlet outlet tank/radiator?
can you romove the lines and fittings and use 3/8 plugs at the filter housing to discontinue the oil cooler, i have a 97 sierra 5.7 with 4wd and never tow anything
I've seen too many examples of problems with these gm oil lines. The quick connects can become brittle and the hose swage fitting remains a question mark to me. Are swages overcrimped, or is there a bad match between fitting and hose spec? I can't say - I'd have to see these at assembly time. Like most hydraulic fittings, there is an ID and an OD spec: if they don't match well, reliability issues lurk. Best bet? Get whatever adapter fittings may be needed for that filter housing, and run your own tubing and hose - the original parts suck. Keep ID the same or slightly larger, as in going from 3/8" to 12mm or some such. Keep hose location & length similar, as it serves to dampen vibrations/take away flex problems that would plague a purely hard piped system with insufficient offsets. Your o-ring blues... remind me of why I love swagelok so much: there are none!
Just purchased 95 4 x 2 suburban this is my fourth suburban this one has roughly hundred thousand on it one owner, and experiences with a 5.7 Vortex bottom knock and I feel that replacing the oil pump can give longevity to the motor. This one doesn’t have the knock just yet but do you feel it can only help?
I bought a 09 Sierra with 200k miles. I found the transmission cooler lines were leaking from the same area. After some research I learned this is very common. People have replace them only to have them leak after a few years. I removed the leaking lines cut the crimps off flared the ends of the lines and reinstalled them and ran TOC hose using band clamp to secure them. All it took was a couple hours a flaring tool, cut off wheel and $10 worth of hose.
The fix is to either A. Use all metal lines next time, or B. cut off that crimped part and just use a hose clamp. It's not gonna see more than about 60psi.
Do NOT use an all metal line.
@@Ashroyer86 and why not? Most automakers use metal lines for attaching the tranny or engine oil line to the cooler.
@@JohnDoe-ml8ru you need flex because the motor and transmission are not solid with the core support.
@@Ashroyer86 the lines flex. If your engine and trans are moving that much, you have other issues. OEMs have used metal lines for decades without issues
@@JohnDoe-ml8ru not without issues. Why do think this guy said the line keeps going. I've had to replace 1 before as well. Can it get the job, yes will it last, possibly. Is it 100%, not in my book. I try to do things the right way not a get me down the road type way. You do whatever you want but I'd rather tell people the correct way.
I have same year ...but a diesel 2500. I just replaced lines after a friends burst and totally destroyed engine. Diesels don't like low oil!
I would have tried cutting off the crimp connector and removing it leaving the barb, then reinstall the hose with permetax and two worm gear clamps.
So when your temp fix fails and your oil all pumps out onto the ground while your tooling down the highway with your tunes cranked up you can buy a new motor? Don't get too clever with engine oil lines, the new ones aren't that expensive.
I replaced my oil cooler lines about 2 months ago with the doorman part. Yesterday I was driving in the mountains and i had a catastrophic oil cooler line failure. Engine suddenly lost oil pressure from dumping all its oil in about 20 seconds. I pulled over and shut the engine off then attempted to fix the issue and my LQ4 is seized now
YES 1ROAD A VERY VERY COMMON PROBLEM. I had mine made by a specialty shop after replacing them twice. 7 years later & they look like new. I think NAPA does hoses like that ? I also went through the EXACT SAME PROBLEM YOU DID I had to change out the nipples for new ones. THE JOB WAS A PAIN IN THE ASS. My neighbor actually blew his motor up when his engine oil lines burst in his GMC.
If they leak again I will certainly have custom lines made. Thanks!
I stopped buying AC Delco part
Just a few to many issues
I make my own now
Braided triple crimp
Better safe than sorry
i have a 91 suburban / overlander complete with Lyft and Raptor liner paint job 12000 lb winch battering ram bumper full size roof rack on board Air and Power conversion 2 battery electronic system..... you might want to upgrade your rear end if you plan on putting on a lift and bigger tires
Im in the process of (readding ) back ny oil cooler adapter ....for some reason when I had my engine rebuilt they deleted it
Do you have a video on transmission cooler line replacement
Some Napa’s make hydraulic lines you could have them build you custom oil cooler lines they’ll last the lift of the truck and then some, a bit costly but totally worth the price, we’re talking double braided steel triple rubbered I might make a video on it for my 95 Tahoe if I do I’ll let you know
Is it possible to replace just the O-rings instead of the whole connector?
Is this an alternate universe?
Since when has Dorman been making quality parts? All I hear about on the forums is peoples Dorman parts failing them less than a year in
How did you find the full lines? I can't find the full line anywhere! I have checked everywhere and they all have only the rubber line and one side of the metal line.
You’d think someone would’ve made some stainless braided hoses that thread right into the oil filter adapter, thusly eliminating the quick disconnect junk.
Any update on the oil cooler lines are they still working?