Thankyou for your time in making this video for us, it's professional tips like this that are extremely helpful to the people trying to save money and do their own repairs ...
Ugh when I replaced the upper control arms in my Lexus a few months ago I may not have torqued with it at normal driving angle, it was kind of angled down vs being parallel to ground. I figured weight of car would settle it to where it naturally wants to be :/ hope everything will be ok.
I put a pogo stick on it and crank it up until the car is teetering off the lift. I’ve only flipped seven or 8 in my 25 years on the job. Good track record in my book.
It's funny that Ford Fusions have the same steel inserts on their leading and trailing ball joint/control arms. Usually the insert sticks to old ball joint and you have to heat it and use 2 jaw puller to remove and pound back into aluminum knuckle.
The provider of the nut....( if it was part of the aftermarket supply of the control arm and such)....needs to be held criminally-responsible for this massive oversight.....
You know what’s pretty wild is I called my local dealer and explained exactly what nut I needed for this application using the vin and they sent me that same one! Pretty crazy
@@EuropeanAutoRepair .... ...IMO....it's worth a face-to-face or telephone talk on this matter with them....and tell them why.....as someone "else" will get killed because of this info. You will feel better after...... BTW....Merry belated Christmas....
Every mechanic here on youtube always says another shop. They never do a mistake, all mistakes coming from another shop. No matter which part of the world you are
When new, I've considered replacing my Camry with one for the same money, they depreciate a lot. Obviously the maintenance will be more so that's the main thing I consider but they're apparently good cars
CV axle is actually an OK term to use.... most "Driveshafts" run longitudinally to a rear axle with differential. If not "CV axle"...then ok...maybe "Drive-axle"......
I sub'd, simply based on the nonconfrontational, humble way you explained an easy way to mess up. We need more of this style.
Thanks man, I really appreciate it
Thankyou for your time in making this video for us, it's professional tips like this that are extremely helpful to the people trying to save money and do their own repairs ...
Good catch. I'd also double check if the fasteners at the control arm bushings were tightened at ride height. Details matter, as you pointed out.
Hah I made a video talking about that exact topic, definitely one of the most common DIYer mistakes, thanks for checking out my video man
Well presented video, much appreciated 👍
Looks like if you used a washer there wouldn't be enough threads to fully engage the nut??
The way it’s positioned in that video is kind of deceptive, plenty of thread once it’s fully seated
and when installing control arms tighten per spec with the wheel in normal driving position not hanging.
Exactly! I made another video talking about that in the past
Ugh when I replaced the upper control arms in my Lexus a few months ago I may not have torqued with it at normal driving angle, it was kind of angled down vs being parallel to ground. I figured weight of car would settle it to where it naturally wants to be :/ hope everything will be ok.
I put a pogo stick on it and crank it up until the car is teetering off the lift. I’ve only flipped seven or 8 in my 25 years on the job. Good track record in my book.
@ honestly that’s not too bad, I do that same move sometimes, makes me feel alive
When I replaced my lower control arm I found it easier to get the balljoint into the knuckle in this position also.
Happy Holidays! Can't say it enough I appreciate your content.
Happy holidays to you!! Thanks man, hopefully this coming year I’ll make some more helpful ones, message me if you have any idea lol
Interesting and nice to know. Thank you attention to detail is not an easy thing.
It's funny that Ford Fusions have the same steel inserts on their leading and trailing ball joint/control arms. Usually the insert sticks to old ball joint and you have to heat it and use 2 jaw puller to remove and pound back into aluminum knuckle.
Merry Christmas brother!
Merry Christmas! I hope youre having a nice one
good eye, bossman
where is you’re shop located?
Metro Detroit area
I'd rather use the original nut. Like you said it is dangerous. Not safe to drive.
Kinda cheap for the aftermarket manufacturer to not include the washer
I had a MK6 Jetta tie rod like that. they did not understand how it came off (Carmax used car tech).
Pretty scary stuff, people need to slow down and look at what they are doing sometimes
@@EuropeanAutoRepair The American flag hour system douse not promote quality workmanship...
True
The provider of the nut....( if it was part of the aftermarket supply of the control arm and such)....needs to be held criminally-responsible for this massive oversight.....
You know what’s pretty wild is I called my local dealer and explained exactly what nut I needed for this application using the vin and they sent me that same one! Pretty crazy
@@EuropeanAutoRepair .... ...IMO....it's worth a face-to-face or telephone talk on this matter with them....and tell them why.....as someone "else" will get killed because of this info. You will feel better after...... BTW....Merry belated Christmas....
Yes, but fender washers are not strong enough. The will bend,, nothing won.
Every mechanic here on youtube always says another shop. They never do a mistake, all mistakes coming from another shop. No matter which part of the world you are
Bahahah you aren’t wrong
$100,000 car and skimping on repairs. I don’t get it.
When new, I've considered replacing my Camry with one for the same money, they depreciate a lot. Obviously the maintenance will be more so that's the main thing I consider but they're apparently good cars
@ then why the massive depreciation? There is a reason a Camry retains it value. Good parts are expensive even if can do the work.
I would call that a drive shaft, not an axle.
Thanks!
CV axle is actually an OK term to use.... most "Driveshafts" run longitudinally to a rear axle with differential. If not "CV axle"...then ok...maybe "Drive-axle"......
@@TheWilferch hahah yeah I’m honestly not the best at the whole words thing, thank god I don’t talk to customers often lol