Something to mention here: This beer was awesome when it was young, but I made a ROOKIE MISTAKE during fermentation that I totally could have avoided, which caused some hop creep later on (diacetyl related to dry hopping). If you follow this recipe, try to avoid this by doing your second dry hop at a cooler temperature (50s should be fine) and then do a diacetyl rest for a few days after.
Grassiness usually results from either dry hopping with too much or for too long. Usually I do about 5-7 days max for most of my dry hopping and try to keep it under 3 oz per dry hopping charge
Tip... If you are getting foam from your floating dip tube shoot CO2 down it .vs. shaking your keg up. I find it's often a build up of yeast or hop material that's clogging up the dip tube which causes turbulence & foaming.
Nice. I'm gonna do this for sure. I'm just going to do 1 dry hop using hops suspended in a bag and held by a magnet, remove the manet about 7 or 8 days into ferment
I have a suggestion for oxygen free dry hoping. This is what we do on our conicals at work: -Hook up a blow-off tube to your butterfly valve up top and leave the valve open -Sanitize and hook up CO2 to your oxygen stone port lower on the conical -Set your regulator to 3-5 PSI and begin pushing CO2 through the port -The CO2 will pass through the beer and will drive off any O2 in your conical through the blow-off tube -This will create a CO2 positive pressure environment to prevent O2 from being introduced and since the blow-off valve is open it won't be enough pressure to carbonate your beer -After the CO2 has been going for a second, open the larger 3" triclamp port up top and drop in your hops -Once you're done dry hoping, close the lower port and disconnect the CO2 It's important to leave the butterfly valve open on the blow-off tube the whole time or the conical will build pressure and blow that 3" triclamp in your face when try to open it. Ask me how I know! Leave the blow-off valve open afterwards as well to let any residual pressure out. This wouldn't be ideal for early fermentation bio-transfer hop additions but the beer will be producing it's own CO2 rich positive pressure environment at that point so you shouldn't have to worry about O2 as much.
Great video. You're highly underrated. Great watch collection as well. Would love a short side video on your watches and any reasons why you like/have them.
Dude the 1.5” tc dry hop struggle is real lol. Especially when the sight glass is packed! One thing that’s helped me is using pressure to push them through and if that doesn’t work I give it a big WACK with the spray bottle 😂 New videos are more 🔥 than ever!
Based on your description I'd choose your homebrew version. On a beer like that I imagine drinking it at a 4th of july party. The crisp, hoppy beer just sounds so much better when the sun is beating down all day.
Awesome hop combos los one of my favorites sometimes I interchange Chinook for Columbus. And I have the same problem with the floating tube but in the fermzilla all rounder, Cheers Steve , have a great weekend 🍻🤙🏼
Great video! Waiting to taste a SMASH pale ale with Sorachi hops and making my first Mexican lager tomorrow. Love the informative nature of your videos.
DUDE!!!!!!! you grabbed some really nice gear! Awesome!!!! Great beer man, perfect for sitting around with some buddies and just chill 👍🏻👍🏻 🍺🍺👍🏻 cheers my man
I’m glad you mentioned that you have that issue with your floating dip tubes. I have had a similar experience, and wondered if there was any way to avoid that. Love the videos!
It's a great beer! Yeah, I've added to the collection a bit but I think its probably the furtherst I'll go with equipment. Cheers Jesse! We've got to meet up again!
Love the videos! Question regarding Clawhammer brew kit. I have the 20G kit and have noticed what I believe to be low hop utilization - hard to get a target bitterness at times even with large hop additions. I noticed you are using a larger hop spider. Does this help out? Have you noticed any similar issues with the standard Clawhammer hop spider? I've resorted to also using a hop bag to spread things out. Any tips on this? Thanks
That's really interesting, I haven't really experienced this, but it can be a result of a 120V system and a very low boil intensity. You notice my hop spider is actually not the stock one, I've been using my old one which has much more room for hop material to spread out and circulate though
Awesome video dude, honestly your version sounded better to me. I think over time your brew will mellow out and be more balanced. Would love to see you try this again and nail it!
Thinking about doing something similar this weekend with one big dry hop post fermentation and ferment with Voss instead of American ale yeast. I've had luck avoiding the hop creep by soft crashing at about 55-60ish before dry hopping
@@TheApartmentBrewer yea I just started doing that soft crash. But no not the pliny clone hopefully that's next weekend. I want a lower abv pale ale to have around too
Do you recommend using 30 min hop additions in more of my recipes? I usually just do bittering at around 60 then nothing until 15 min or later. Do you think the classic flavour addition at 30 min adds something?
I dont think you really get that much flavor from a 30 minute addition, just less bitterness than a 60 minute addition. Nothing wrong with a 60-15-0 hop schedule
Hi! I've been watching a lot of your videos while my american amber (2nd ever batch) is fermenting. I'd love to see you go more in depth your recipe design process in a video. Also just ordered my galaxy single hop apa recipe. Keep up the good work :)
Loose dry hopping is my nemesis! I want the contact and utilization, but I also deal with clogged poppits during closed transfers. I'll be interested to see how you change your process to accommodate for this. I have looked into the Bouncer pro in line filter but wonder if I would end up unclogging the filter just as much as the poppits! For now I've been using a stainless hop spider to contain dry hops.
Preboil 1.049 and postboil 1.051 I think you need to take several measurements with the refractometer because I have had the same issues with having strange numbers. I dont think a 60 min boil will just knock of 2 points even if you have a lid partially on.
It has everything to do with the intensity (or lack thereof) of a 120V electric boil. It is indeed that low of a boil off rate. I dont really lose any volume either, and its been consistent this way unless I'm adding some sort of additional fermentable during the boil.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Ok im running on a 240V system here in Sweden and have 2400W on the kettle so i didnt realise it was that low. Time to tell Emmet to hook u up with the 240V.
Great video. Have you ever used one of those in-line filters during a closed keg transfer to prevent clogging? Was thinking of getting one after kegging my first (session) neipa this week. Ball lock connector kept clogging, made the transfer a PITA. May have introduced a small amount of O2, we'll see if it stays stable. A week after keg it's the best beer I've ever made despite that annoyance, but hoping for a solution to closed transfer clogs in the future since I'm hoping to do much more of that style
I love your videos, man. I'm a lowly extract brewer at the moment, though I'd love to get into full-grain soon. But I digress: if you were to do this with extract, how would you go about it?
Unfortunately I don't really have the expertise to give you a good answer. I made two or three extract batches when I started brewing and that was really it. I think they make extract versions of all the malts I used though
Interesting points about dry hopping later into fermentation. I mostly do WC IPAs and am not looking for a bio transformation, so when is a good time to add my dry hops? Do you ever worry about hop creep when dry hopping for a few days and not giving it a long vdk rest? Like you mentioned, I don’t want to leave the hops in too long so I usually transfer after 3-5 days without much of a vdk rest. One of my last batches had strong diacetyl flavors 😕
Biotransformation largely depends on the yeast, so it doesnt really matter if you want to do an early dry hop or a late one. As far as I know I dont think your typical west coast IPA American ale yeast like US-05/WLP001/Wyeast 1056 is capable of biotransformation. To your hop creep point though, unfortunately that bit me this time. The beer was awesome when it was young but I didnt dry hop cold/have a diacetyl rest and now its got a lot :(
@@TheApartmentBrewer ah okay I didn't realize not all yeast do the biotransformation. Makes sense that the Chico/west coast yeast doesn't do it. I'm gonna try dry hopping earlier then! Thanks for your insights.
So I tried making an American IPA a few weeks ago. I just tried one last night, turns out it was just a pale ale, but very much so copper hued. More late addition hops next time I suppose 😅
You are not really flushing out oxygen by the method you were showing. Might be better to add a bit of CO2 pressure to the fermentor (if you have a separate connector) and then releasing it through the dry hops.
No joke, usually more than 50% of each keg gets given away. I have a lot of people in my life that like free beer haha, and I like to get their feedback
Could you just put a little more pressure on the top than what was in the fermenter to pop the hops in there, not taking about a bunch of pressure. Like your shit that you do! Cheers!!!
In my opinion, there's plenty of wiggle room for a beer like this. It was never meant to be like an old school classic APA like Sierra Nevada. At the end of the day, I did probably dry hop too much though, since some hop creep caught up with me after a while
Something to mention here: This beer was awesome when it was young, but I made a ROOKIE MISTAKE during fermentation that I totally could have avoided, which caused some hop creep later on (diacetyl related to dry hopping). If you follow this recipe, try to avoid this by doing your second dry hop at a cooler temperature (50s should be fine) and then do a diacetyl rest for a few days after.
Everytime I dry hop under 65f i get a very unpleasant grassy bitter hop flavour and a flavour I've yet to identify...any suggestion there?
Grassiness usually results from either dry hopping with too much or for too long. Usually I do about 5-7 days max for most of my dry hopping and try to keep it under 3 oz per dry hopping charge
@@TheApartmentBrewer I go for about 2-3 days max but maybe am over hopping I'll have to dail it back and see how it turns out
Good luck, maybe its just the amount? Sometimes it can also depend on the hop variety as well I think
Great video! I learned so much from tour detailed explanation and comparison for these two beers... thanks man as always!!!
Tip... If you are getting foam from your floating dip tube shoot CO2 down it .vs. shaking your keg up. I find it's often a build up of yeast or hop material that's clogging up the dip tube which causes turbulence & foaming.
Nice. I'm gonna do this for sure. I'm just going to do 1 dry hop using hops suspended in a bag and held by a magnet, remove the manet about 7 or 8 days into ferment
I love using the magnet technique as well, it's very effective!
I have a suggestion for oxygen free dry hoping. This is what we do on our conicals at work:
-Hook up a blow-off tube to your butterfly valve up top and leave the valve open
-Sanitize and hook up CO2 to your oxygen stone port lower on the conical
-Set your regulator to 3-5 PSI and begin pushing CO2 through the port
-The CO2 will pass through the beer and will drive off any O2 in your conical through the blow-off tube
-This will create a CO2 positive pressure environment to prevent O2 from being introduced and since the blow-off valve is open it won't be enough pressure to carbonate your beer
-After the CO2 has been going for a second, open the larger 3" triclamp port up top and drop in your hops
-Once you're done dry hoping, close the lower port and disconnect the CO2
It's important to leave the butterfly valve open on the blow-off tube the whole time or the conical will build pressure and blow that 3" triclamp in your face when try to open it. Ask me how I know! Leave the blow-off valve open afterwards as well to let any residual pressure out.
This wouldn't be ideal for early fermentation bio-transfer hop additions but the beer will be producing it's own CO2 rich positive pressure environment at that point so you shouldn't have to worry about O2 as much.
That is an awesome technique and thanks for sharing! I'll probably be doing something similar for future heavily dry hopped beers
I don’t make ANYTHING under 7.0 ABV. 😉😉 I’ll be making this tomorrow. Love the Channel. You’re HIGHLY UNDERRATED!🇺🇸🍺🥩🔫🎸
I appreciate the kind words, man! Cheers!
I'm aboard that ship, anything lower is water or pop
Same here, I usually brew higher ABV but this I can enjoy for sure!
Always has great videos, not a bad one in the lineup 🍺🍺
I appreciate all the love, but you guys make it all worth it!
He is, in fact, very underrated. In my opinion the best channel on UA-cam for homebrew knowledge
Great video Steve!
Thanks CH! 🍻
Great video. You're highly underrated. Great watch collection as well. Would love a short side video on your watches and any reasons why you like/have them.
Great video! Really liked the side by side comparison at the end! I enjoy tasting my beer next to commercial examples too. Cheers!!!
Glad you enjoyed it man! I still think theirs was better but it was really cool to pick out the differences!
Dude the 1.5” tc dry hop struggle is real lol. Especially when the sight glass is packed! One thing that’s helped me is using pressure to push them through and if that doesn’t work I give it a big WACK with the spray bottle 😂 New videos are more 🔥 than ever!
Thanks man! Yeah its definitely a bit of a PITA sometimes. Thanks for the advice!
Based on your description I'd choose your homebrew version. On a beer like that I imagine drinking it at a 4th of july party. The crisp, hoppy beer just sounds so much better when the sun is beating down all day.
Agreed! The drier the better for the summer months
Think I'll give this one a go. Thank you
Best of luck!
Awesome hop combos los one of my favorites sometimes I interchange Chinook for Columbus. And I have the same problem with the floating tube but in the fermzilla all rounder, Cheers Steve , have a great weekend 🍻🤙🏼
Cheers hellbrews! Yeah I think Columbus would really be awesome in this as well, just to get that extra heavy dankness!
Great video! Waiting to taste a SMASH pale ale with Sorachi hops and making my first Mexican lager tomorrow. Love the informative nature of your videos.
Sounds great! Thats a very unique type of hop and good luck with the Mexican lager!
Pale ale is one of my favorite styles as well. Love your video work. Great thorough review of this brew. Cheers!
Thanks for watching, I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Well done informative video. There are so many variations on a style of beer. Keeps it interesting and fun. So many beer’s to brew! 🍻
Agreed! Thats what makes it so much fun. Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed!
DUDE!!!!!!! you grabbed some really nice gear! Awesome!!!!
Great beer man, perfect for sitting around with some buddies and just chill 👍🏻👍🏻
🍺🍺👍🏻 cheers my man
Absolutely! Yeah basically I used my stimmy check for a good cause 🤣 cheers Tom!!
@@TheApartmentBrewer noice!!!!!🍺🍺
I’m glad you mentioned that you have that issue with your floating dip tubes. I have had a similar experience, and wondered if there was any way to avoid that. Love the videos!
I'm thinking filters are the solution, I'm looking into as we speak
Parabéns!! Muito legal seus vídeos!!
Um abraço !!!
Nice...... Iron Mike is a decent pale...... look at you with all your new toys 👍
Cheers Steve
It's a great beer! Yeah, I've added to the collection a bit but I think its probably the furtherst I'll go with equipment. Cheers Jesse! We've got to meet up again!
Love the videos! Question regarding Clawhammer brew kit. I have the 20G kit and have noticed what I believe to be low hop utilization - hard to get a target bitterness at times even with large hop additions. I noticed you are using a larger hop spider. Does this help out? Have you noticed any similar issues with the standard Clawhammer hop spider? I've resorted to also using a hop bag to spread things out. Any tips on this? Thanks
That's really interesting, I haven't really experienced this, but it can be a result of a 120V system and a very low boil intensity. You notice my hop spider is actually not the stock one, I've been using my old one which has much more room for hop material to spread out and circulate though
Hey, what you do is really great and inspiring. You've got a viewer as long as you're making content and great beer.
Appreciate it man! I'm glad you enjoy it and I will keep putting it out there!
Awesome video dude, honestly your version sounded better to me. I think over time your brew will mellow out and be more balanced. Would love to see you try this again and nail it!
Considering pale ales are among my favorite styles of beer, I think I might!
Awesome recipe btw, might try this next!
Thanks!
Thinking about doing something similar this weekend with one big dry hop post fermentation and ferment with Voss instead of American ale yeast. I've had luck avoiding the hop creep by soft crashing at about 55-60ish before dry hopping
You talking about the Pliny clone? I really think knocking the temp down helps a lot with the hop creep. Amateur mistake on my part!
@@TheApartmentBrewer yea I just started doing that soft crash. But no not the pliny clone hopefully that's next weekend. I want a lower abv pale ale to have around too
Ah gotcha, yeah it would definitely be a good companion beer!
hey man, great video and great channel. would love to see you brewing a clone of heady topper or pliny the elder
All you have to do is wait until Monday!
Just brewed one of these yesterday while listening to the Genus livestream. Great minds think alike. Hahaha
Yes! Haha I think I was actually mashing this during their livestream a few weeks back. Great stuff!
Sounds like a tasty beer! Hopefully the boil over did not cost you too much wort. :) Cheers!!
It was actually way less catastrophic than it looks haha
Good vid! I think you might have gotten a bit more fruitness and sweetness with a yeast like A15/wlp051. US05 is great, but dries a ton.
I think you're right! Would have been interesting to try out something like that
Do you recommend using 30 min hop additions in more of my recipes? I usually just do bittering at around 60 then nothing until 15 min or later. Do you think the classic flavour addition at 30 min adds something?
I dont think you really get that much flavor from a 30 minute addition, just less bitterness than a 60 minute addition. Nothing wrong with a 60-15-0 hop schedule
Hi! I've been watching a lot of your videos while my american amber (2nd ever batch) is fermenting. I'd love to see you go more in depth your recipe design process in a video. Also just ordered my galaxy single hop apa recipe.
Keep up the good work :)
Its in the works! Hope the beer turns out good!
Loose dry hopping is my nemesis! I want the contact and utilization, but I also deal with clogged poppits during closed transfers. I'll be interested to see how you change your process to accommodate for this. I have looked into the Bouncer pro in line filter but wonder if I would end up unclogging the filter just as much as the poppits! For now I've been using a stainless hop spider to contain dry hops.
I will let you know, but so far I am thinking a filter on the end of the pickup tube is the solution.
Love the side by side comparison. A lot of guts to put your clone beer up against the real mcCoy on camera. Good stuff👍🍺
Trust me, their version is probably better haha. It really was a lot of fun doing the comparison!
Preboil 1.049 and postboil 1.051 I think you need to take several measurements with the refractometer because I have had the same issues with having strange numbers. I dont think a 60 min boil will just knock of 2 points even if you have a lid partially on.
It has everything to do with the intensity (or lack thereof) of a 120V electric boil. It is indeed that low of a boil off rate. I dont really lose any volume either, and its been consistent this way unless I'm adding some sort of additional fermentable during the boil.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Ok im running on a 240V system here in Sweden and have 2400W on the kettle so i didnt realise it was that low. Time to tell Emmet to hook u up with the 240V.
I hear ya! Would be great if he would install a 240V circuit in my apartment too!
Nice one. Cheers
Thanks, Cheers Rasmus!
Great video. Have you ever used one of those in-line filters during a closed keg transfer to prevent clogging? Was thinking of getting one after kegging my first (session) neipa this week. Ball lock connector kept clogging, made the transfer a PITA. May have introduced a small amount of O2, we'll see if it stays stable. A week after keg it's the best beer I've ever made despite that annoyance, but hoping for a solution to closed transfer clogs in the future since I'm hoping to do much more of that style
I'm thinking ill be looking for a dip tube filter, hopefully that works
I love your videos, man. I'm a lowly extract brewer at the moment, though I'd love to get into full-grain soon. But I digress: if you were to do this with extract, how would you go about it?
Unfortunately I don't really have the expertise to give you a good answer. I made two or three extract batches when I started brewing and that was really it. I think they make extract versions of all the malts I used though
Do you dump the trub and hop debris oit of your fermentwr from the bottom valve before kegging?
It can certainly help if you do that
American Pale Ale without Pale grain ;) 🍻
Interesting points about dry hopping later into fermentation. I mostly do WC IPAs and am not looking for a bio transformation, so when is a good time to add my dry hops? Do you ever worry about hop creep when dry hopping for a few days and not giving it a long vdk rest? Like you mentioned, I don’t want to leave the hops in too long so I usually transfer after 3-5 days without much of a vdk rest. One of my last batches had strong diacetyl flavors 😕
Biotransformation largely depends on the yeast, so it doesnt really matter if you want to do an early dry hop or a late one. As far as I know I dont think your typical west coast IPA American ale yeast like US-05/WLP001/Wyeast 1056 is capable of biotransformation. To your hop creep point though, unfortunately that bit me this time. The beer was awesome when it was young but I didnt dry hop cold/have a diacetyl rest and now its got a lot :(
@@TheApartmentBrewer ah okay I didn't realize not all yeast do the biotransformation. Makes sense that the Chico/west coast yeast doesn't do it. I'm gonna try dry hopping earlier then! Thanks for your insights.
Any time!
Why is it you use the grain bag instead of a mash tun?
Its just a different technique, still works as a mash tun but with less cleaning and fewer vessels
So I tried making an American IPA a few weeks ago. I just tried one last night, turns out it was just a pale ale, but very much so copper hued. More late addition hops next time I suppose 😅
Better luck next time! Keep brewing!
Why a 90-minute mash? For greater efficiency?
Well, for the most part it does increase my efficiency with a single crush, but its mostly so I can get my editing done lol
Looks the same!
What happened right before 8:23 mark? Was there an explosion?
We had a wee boil over because I wasnt paying attention haha
@@TheApartmentBrewer all worth it!!
You are not really flushing out oxygen by the method you were showing.
Might be better to add a bit of CO2 pressure to the fermentor (if you have a separate connector) and then releasing it through the dry hops.
Looks like your wort tried to jump out of the pot at some point.
Yeah it got a little excited there once I threw in those bittering hops
I gotta ask man, how are you able to brew so often? No way you’re drinking all that beer yourself. Are you bottling some or what?
No joke, usually more than 50% of each keg gets given away. I have a lot of people in my life that like free beer haha, and I like to get their feedback
Could you just put a little more pressure on the top than what was in the fermenter to pop the hops in there, not taking about a bunch of pressure. Like your shit that you do! Cheers!!!
I did actually try that, it wasn't really budging. Glad you enjoy the channel!
#makebeerclearagain
Hell yes!
Still waiting on that rauchbier! I need a recipe lmao. Cheers my guy
In time, in time haha. I will definitely do one though, you have my word
When you described your water chemistry, I thought it was way too high in sulfates. I also think you dry hopped a little too much for an APA
In my opinion, there's plenty of wiggle room for a beer like this. It was never meant to be like an old school classic APA like Sierra Nevada. At the end of the day, I did probably dry hop too much though, since some hop creep caught up with me after a while
YOU ARE TALKING TOOOOO FAST! SLOW DOWN!