Excellent information! As A person just getting into reloading, I really appreciate this in depth video and explanation of this process! Thank you very much!
I have never seen a better video of shoulder bump. Im a serious reloader and u hit the nail on the head of information i wanted to learn more of. God bless and keep it coming.
Although this is an older video, for me it is the most relevant and precise when it comes to the step by step process you have created here. Thank you for doing this excellent presentation.
Dude…we need more UA-camrs like you. Someone with real viewer information. I just performed your informational guidance and just the results I’ve been try to understand for quite some time. Keep bringing the on!
I started reloading back in 1980 using a $13 Lee Loader kit. As time progressed and exposure to hand loading techniques, I thought I had acquired a high level of knowledge. Constantly watching your videos repeatedly for the last 3 years, I continue to learn things I had missed! Greg, you have enlightened me to so many things that had me frustrated by being stuck at .5-.6 moa (back before the internet) with rare .3-.4 moa @ 100 yds. Thank you so much ❤
Just getting into it and have watched many videos. Most were only surface level and didn't really give me a warm feeling that I understood what I was watching. This video is the clear exception. Terms were carefully explained and illustrated. Now I feel I know how to set up a die and why all the little details are important as well as how they integrate to ensure I set up a good process set up for resizing. Thanks for the detail.
@@primalrights Hey Greg, if using a Short Action Customs modular sizing die would you use a bushing along with a decapping mandrel or just a decapping mandrel of the desired inside neck diameter for neck tension?
Excellent information! Thank you for all the detail on die setup. I am new to reloading and this is the most detailed video on setting up I have found. This video deserves more comments.
Wonderful information...I have reloaded for my hunting needs since 1995, and for the first time I had case head separation occur. I have had some difficulty with a newer savage 7mm-08 as the bolt got stuck, and in researching why, the neck sizing seemed to be the culprit in that I was not taking the shoulder back. I followed the rules of setting up the full length die, and lo and behold, the brass was apparently overworked and twice fired brass began to separate. I am going to get rid of the brass I just sized full length and start over....a hard lesson for this long time reloader who learned they still have a lot to learn.
The press does not cater for cam over. This way is the very hardest way to get a 2 thou bump. The varying size shell holders from Redding are accurate, accurate and cheap.
This was a great video. Something I was looking for since my brass didn't work right. First time reloading for 223 and had some issue with the ejecting and tight fit. Would this process be the same for 223? I have a tone of range brass I picked up over the years. When you have a moment please let me know. Thanks,
@@primalrights Thanks for the reply. You are right it's all over the place on brands. What I did is sort them by brand just so I have an idea what I'm reloading. Hopefully sorting them will give me some good brass.
I've seen some say that dwell time with in the die will affect the sizing. Have you tested a 1 second dwell vs 5 seconds vs 10 second. I like your content.
Hi Greg, great video and awesome Channel! I was noticing you use a whitten Die, of which I just bought. I was just trying the die out in my Foster Coax like the one you use and I have found that the lock ring doesn’t allow the die to slide back quite far enough into the recess of the press where the die is made to slide into. When I say “far enough” I mean that it doesn’t slide in far enough to allow the die to be centered over the shell holder thereby misaligning the shell when it slides into the Whitten die. How have you gotten around this problem, using the Whitten die lock ring ? Thanks so much
Have you ever used the SAC HEADSPACE COMPARATOR kit they sell? I had some gift money and purchase 308 and 223 one. I had brass that the headspace was push back using the Hornady headspace kit. I measured that brass and it was way off. I'm a little confuse on why.. Hopefully I will read more and see if I could figure it out.
Hello there, what full-length sizing die with a no ball - mandrill deprimer , would you recomend to allow case to lengthen easily please?. I'm currently buying lyman and lee gear for 300 win mag , 6.5 prc. Thanks, mate, for your even communication and informative low preasure videos for new bees to follow. God's speed Andrew Nz
Thank you Greg, as a newcomer to reloading this is the most comprehensive guide to setting up a sizing die I have found. One thought has occurred though, if you set up the die after your first firing has the case fully fire formed at this point, or do you have to repeat this process until the case stabilises in length? (I use Lapua brass)
I have been reloading for about a year now, slowly moving in the direction of accuracy with knowledge gained. Since dies are made to do specific things, my question would be: Can you use a combination of dies to maximize performance of the brass? Meaning, using a universal decapper, followed by a body die, followed by a neck die. I know there are multifunction dies that can do all or some of these functions. I'm a tinkerer and it wouldn't bother me to do one or two extra cranks for the sake of accuracy. What's you take? Thank you.
Forget neck only sizing dies, waste of money and terrible for your brass. Buy yourself a Type S bushing FL sizing die and a forster micrometer seating die and be done with it. I shoot half MOA or less all day at NRL and PRS Matches
This happened regularly to me when I first got in. No matter how deep or shallow I ran the die, nothing would change enough to get close to sufficient. After some suggestions (BTW I was using a standard singlestage) I tried swimming a case in shell holder with cigarette paper. Sure nuff the shell holder was contacting to early (as such no matter where the die was screwed in it achieved the same results. I had to measure the amount I still needed to setback, measure shellholder and veeeeeery slowly/carefully remove material via polishing/sanding and relegate that holder to a that specific rifle chamber.
Do you ever have trouble from lubricant (die wax or other..) creeping up in die to shoulder area and pushing shoulder farther than desired or even micro dent shoulder ? (Via hydraulic action)
I have a 6.5 cm. When I fire a cartridge, the brass does not seem to expand much at all because I can still easily fit the empty brass into the chamber and close the bolt with no issue whatsoever. Is this normal?
Thanks for responding. I’ve only been reloading for a few months. But I thought one of the goals when precision reloading was to size the case so that it just barely fits in the chamber and the bolt snugs up just a tad bit as it closes. If my fired cases already fit in the chamber quite easily, wouldn’t bumping the shoulders back make the brass even shorter, leaving more “slop” in the chamber?
@@primalrights well, that sure leaves a lot to wonder about. I asked because when jamming bullets you substantially increase the initial pressure so I assumed one would want to start at the low end of published data?
Excellent information! As A person just getting into reloading, I really appreciate this in depth video and explanation of this process! Thank you very much!
THE most explicit video on how to setup the full length die. Thank you so much.
I have never seen a better video of shoulder bump. Im a serious reloader and u hit the nail on the head of information i wanted to learn more of. God bless and keep it coming.
Although this is an older video, for me it is the most relevant and precise when it comes to the step by step process you have created here. Thank you for doing this excellent presentation.
Dude…we need more UA-camrs like you. Someone with real viewer information. I just performed your informational guidance and just the results I’ve been try to understand for quite some time. Keep bringing the on!
Seen so many videos, but never really understood any before this one. Thank you
I started reloading back in 1980 using a $13 Lee Loader kit. As time progressed and exposure to hand loading techniques, I thought I had acquired a high level of knowledge. Constantly watching your videos repeatedly for the last 3 years, I continue to learn things I had missed! Greg, you have enlightened me to so many things that had me frustrated by being stuck at .5-.6 moa (back before the internet) with rare .3-.4 moa @ 100 yds. Thank you so much ❤
Just getting into it and have watched many videos. Most were only surface level and didn't really give me a warm feeling that I understood what I was watching. This video is the clear exception. Terms were carefully explained and illustrated. Now I feel I know how to set up a die and why all the little details are important as well as how they integrate to ensure I set up a good process set up for resizing. Thanks for the detail.
The best easy to understand explanation of a complex subject that I have seen anywhere.
Very kind! Thank you
@@primalrights Hey Greg, if using a Short Action Customs modular sizing die would you use a bushing along with a decapping mandrel or just a decapping mandrel of the desired inside neck diameter for neck tension?
Excellent information! Thank you for all the detail on die setup. I am new to reloading and this is the most detailed video on setting up I have found. This video deserves more comments.
Wow! I learned so much watching your video. Thank you my friend!
Very nice Greg. Thank you for your hard work with this and all other videos- you have “cost” me quite a bit of money over the years!
I ruined quite a bit of 308 brass until if figured out sizing die set up and using a head space gauge, So nice to get a review of sound advice.
Your video had the little details i was missing to start reloading on my new press thanks
Great tutorial. I appreciate you taking the time to document this process.
Wonderful information...I have reloaded for my hunting needs since 1995, and for the first time I had case head separation occur. I have had some difficulty with a newer savage 7mm-08 as the bolt got stuck, and in researching why, the neck sizing seemed to be the culprit in that I was not taking the shoulder back. I followed the rules of setting up the full length die, and lo and behold, the brass was apparently overworked and twice fired brass began to separate. I am going to get rid of the brass I just sized full length and start over....a hard lesson for this long time reloader who learned they still have a lot to learn.
One of the best topic coverages by far! Thank you!
Great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
This was a fantastic video. Thank you very much for this.
Absolutely excellent info. Thanks
Excellent video Greg!
Very informative! Always quality information.
Excellent display of this process. Thanks
It would be impossible to explain this process in more detail, thankyou for your time. Excellent video.
Can you remove the decapping assembly and just use a Mandrel die, once you get the shoulder bump? Great information.
The press does not cater for cam over. This way is the very hardest way to get a 2 thou bump. The varying size shell holders from Redding are accurate, accurate and cheap.
Well said
Thank you, keep growing the Kingdom .
Great video, thanks a bunch.
Excellent video. Thank you for putting this video together!
Bullet shape, size, brand will also make a difference in setting!
Excellent vid.... thank you!!!
As a point of reference each 10 degrees you turn the die moves the die by about .002".
Very informative
This was a very good article
Great video
This is a good video....thanks!
This was a great video. Something I was looking for since my brass didn't work right. First time reloading for 223 and had some issue with the ejecting and tight fit.
Would this process be the same for 223? I have a tone of range brass I picked up over the years. When you have a moment please let me know.
Thanks,
Range brass will not be consistent
@@primalrights Thanks for the reply. You are right it's all over the place on brands. What I did is sort them by brand just so I have an idea what I'm reloading. Hopefully sorting them will give me some good brass.
Excellent info. Thanks
I've seen some say that dwell time with in the die will affect the sizing. Have you tested a 1 second dwell vs 5 seconds vs 10 second. I like your content.
Correct me if I am wrong, when you “fire form” brass, either to make a cartridge, or form new brass to your chamber, you remove the ejector plunger?
You didn't mention but do anneal the brass first ? Thanks for your time, Ken
Sorry I found the reference
Hi Greg, great video and awesome Channel! I was noticing you use a whitten Die, of which I just bought. I was just trying the die out in my Foster Coax like the one you use and I have found that the lock ring doesn’t allow the die to slide back quite far enough into the recess of the press where the die is made to slide into. When I say “far enough” I mean that it doesn’t slide in far enough to allow the die to be centered over the shell holder thereby misaligning the shell when it slides into the Whitten die. How have you gotten around this problem, using the Whitten die lock ring ? Thanks so much
I have lock rings that fit. You should probably call Whidden and get a different lock ring.
Have you ever used the SAC HEADSPACE COMPARATOR kit they sell? I had some gift money and purchase 308 and 223 one. I had brass that the headspace was push back using the Hornady headspace kit. I measured that brass and it was way off. I'm a little confuse on why.. Hopefully I will read more and see if I could figure it out.
What are your thoughts on using the Redding competition shellholders and setting the press so there's contact with cam over?
great vid
Are you adjusting this sizing die without the bushing? If so, are you using a mandrel too? I'm a newbie so anyone pls answer this question.
Do you have a video on seating your bullet/projectile.
Hello there, what full-length sizing die with a no ball - mandrill deprimer , would you recomend to allow case to lengthen easily please?.
I'm currently buying lyman and lee gear for 300 win mag , 6.5 prc.
Thanks, mate, for your even communication and informative low preasure videos for new bees to follow.
God's speed
Andrew Nz
Thank you Greg, as a newcomer to reloading this is the most comprehensive guide to setting up a sizing die I have found. One thought has occurred though, if you set up the die after your first firing has the case fully fire formed at this point, or do you have to repeat this process until the case stabilises in length? (I use Lapua brass)
I advocate for waiting until the brass is fully formed before setting shoulder bump.
Beeswax, anything else for substitute for sizing wax when without?
I have been reloading for about a year now, slowly moving in the direction of accuracy with knowledge gained. Since dies are made to do specific things, my question would be: Can you use a combination of dies to maximize performance of the brass? Meaning, using a universal decapper, followed by a body die, followed by a neck die. I know there are multifunction dies that can do all or some of these functions. I'm a tinkerer and it wouldn't bother me to do one or two extra cranks for the sake of accuracy. What's you take? Thank you.
Forget neck only sizing dies, waste of money and terrible for your brass. Buy yourself a Type S bushing FL sizing die and a forster micrometer seating die and be done with it. I shoot half MOA or less all day at NRL and PRS Matches
How do you know exactly what it should be? Are you using the diagram from the reloading manual???
Great video very informative but do you anneal your brass?
Every firing.
Cheers my friend I anneal every time. I try to work on 2000 on all my match cases
I tried bumping back the shoulder on a few brass, but they would only become longer, never shorter like your vid. I guess I'm doing something wrong.
If the shoulder is not being contacted, the brass will grow because it is only being squeezed on the sides. ;)
Yep, you need to turn the die down far enough that it will contact the shoulder area of the case.
This happened regularly to me when I first got in. No matter how deep or shallow I ran the die, nothing would change enough to get close to sufficient. After some suggestions (BTW I was using a standard singlestage) I tried swimming a case in shell holder with cigarette paper. Sure nuff the shell holder was contacting to early (as such no matter where the die was screwed in it achieved the same results. I had to measure the amount I still needed to setback, measure shellholder and veeeeeery slowly/carefully remove material via polishing/sanding and relegate that holder to a that specific rifle chamber.
Do you ever have trouble from lubricant (die wax or other..) creeping up in die to shoulder area and pushing shoulder farther than desired or even micro dent shoulder ? (Via hydraulic action)
Thank you
What are your thoughts on using the Redding Competition Shellholder set for establishing the shoulder set back?
I do not recommend that, or shellholder contact.
Thank you.
Where did you get that thumb nut for the headspace gauge?
McMaster Carr I think.
@@primalrights Thanks. I really like my Whidden gauge and being able to attach it with a thumb nut instead of an Allen wrench would save some time.
I have a 6.5 cm. When I fire a cartridge, the brass does not seem to expand much at all because I can still easily fit the empty brass into the chamber and close the bolt with no issue whatsoever. Is this normal?
Very normal for mild loads.
Thanks for responding. I’ve only been reloading for a few months. But I thought one of the goals when precision reloading was to size the case so that it just barely fits in the chamber and the bolt snugs up just a tad bit as it closes. If my fired cases already fit in the chamber quite easily, wouldn’t bumping the shoulders back make the brass even shorter, leaving more “slop” in the chamber?
When fire forming cases with bullets jammed, do I use the lowest charge listed in my manual?
You use a charge adequate to fully form the case, without being over pressure.
@@primalrights well, that sure leaves a lot to wonder about. I asked because when jamming bullets you substantially increase the initial pressure so I assumed one would want to start at the low end of published data?
@@patdennis3751 If you’d like a better answer, you could always join this channel at the apprentice level and just give me a call afterwards.
This is part of the reason I am not that crazy about this type of press, too much play. Seems like a lot of cam over taking place.