Hi Gregg, thanks for sharing your knowledge. When I get a new barrel , I clean it very good. There’s usually a good bit of machinists oil, etc when they ship it. After it is clean I use my thumbnail to find where I can pull the bullet out without any resistance. The 1st time you try this it will freak you out on how easy you can identify 5 thou in, 10 thou in, just kissing the lands & when you are completely off the lands. I only do this with a new bbl. It’s not practical to if you are wanting to track the lands through the life of the barrel. The method you demonstrated is very good, but as in everything it has to be practiced in order to find the repeatability you should desire. Also, don’t underestimate the OAL gauge. With enough experience you can become very good at getting consistent repeatable measurements. It does take thinking about what you are doing & doing it for a long period of time. *** Greg you once offered to turn some brass for me free on your IDOD. I declined because of the volume that was involved & did it slow , but steady with my K&M set. Viewers, this is a man with a lot of knowledge & I hope the story about the brass demonstrates his willingness to share & help. Thanks & God Bless.
FINALLY!!! A guy that knows what he's talking about! I'm lazy and stopped removing the firing pin. I just take my dummy rounds (no primer, powder of course) and use the Hornady comparator tool to just barely touch the lands. Took that data and worked up/down my seating depth from there. Took awhile, but hey, target shooting is just fun even if my shots were MOA+! Now I shoot MOA- @ 100 yards out to 600!!! I'm happy!🙂 And yes, you will have to do the whole process over every time you use a different lot of even the same bullet and especially if you go to a different brand and type. Reloading for me is relaxing but it's not for everyone. Helps if you're OCD!!🤫
Excellent video! I also like the fact that you mentioned that this is simply measuring the distance to the lands and you will still need to determine the best seating depth for YOUR particular rifle/load workup.
Thanks for the great video. I have used both the Hornaday comaparator , and the progressive shoulder bump to achieve the tightest resize with the easy bolt drop. Your method for determining the ogive to land is basically the same method. this will save me money by not having to buy the specialty tools. Thanks for the instructions, will be putting this to use in the new year, as I have some Barnes 80 grn ttsx that require a little jump!
The system I use is to seat a flat base bullet nose down into a fired resized case and use that as the index for my distance to the lands. When I want to work out the OAL for a new bullet, I press it firmly nose first into the muzzle of my rifle then twist it to scribe a line in the jacket. With a caliper it is then a simple matter to determine the seating depth relative to the ogive.
I do my measuring fairly similar but i don't remove the firing pin and plunger. By removing those parts and doing your measuring once you put the guts back into your bolt does that not change your measurement as to how far your bullet is to the lands?
My question is, why would we want to remove the ejector spring tension? Under normal use that spring tension would be there behind the round and force the round back into the lands however much thousandths! Not getting an accurate reading when we're seating off the lands. Am I wrong or just over thinking the process?
When you resize your case, you bump the shoulders back 1 or 2 thousands. After, when you chamber your round, even if the spring pushes the case forward, it cannot move more than 1 or 2 thousands forward. So let's say you seat your bullet 20 thousands off the lands... in reality it could be 18 or 19 thousands off the lands... For me that's a pretty much negligeable.
Wouldn’t it be better to do this with the plunger still in, pushing the case foraward as this is how the case will be positioned when actually fireing live rounds, or not?
Fairly new to reloading. I’ve been setting bullets 10 thousandths off the lands with the afore mentioned non accurate method. If I do this process with a fired and resized cartridge, 10 thousandths off the lands is where you should start to not have any pressure issues?
Hi! I really want to follow your method, but Browning just told me today to not disassemble the ejector plunger on my x-bolt long rifle (the pin must be factory set). Is there any advice without removing the ejector plunger with a fire-formed brass (300 win mag)? Thinking about your method, after the plunger is reinstalled, it will naturally push the brass forward, so there is risk of pushing the bullet into the lands after all "was" configured to offset the lands by let's say 10 thousanths. Thoughts?
When I get my 7mm PRC Primal next year, and I come down there to train with you, to set up dies and fireform the brass, would we be creating this dummy cartridge first using the false shoulder case we create? Would we be fireforming the cases with the bullets at .010" off the lands?
I'd recommend finding where the resistance is coming from. Use a sharpie to determine contact. If it's the neck OD, then you'll need to turn your cases down much more. If it's shoulder, then you'll need to set back a bit more.
That’s a really good idea. I have been using the Hornady tool and I measure 5 times over three bullets from the same lot. Then I take an average and set back. Your way is way more precise! I guess my only question is how often do you re check your marked bullet as your lands start to wear. I assume this would be different based on caliber or your groups starting to open up? I don’t typically chase my lands
I will save the dummy round created during this process for later reference. When I'm interested in checking the land erosion, I will repeat this process with a new dummy round, and can compare it to the original to see just how much erosion there has been. It should be obvious as well that it is perfectly safe to perform this operation with a loaded cartridge, as the firing pin assembly has been removed from the bolt. Thus, after you've achieved your measurement, the "dummy" round can then have the bullet set back and be fired just as a normal round would be.
I find always measuse the lenght og barrle from where it meets the receiver not by inserting a rod to meet the bolt face Tjis allpws for no margin of error and you will have a much safer measurement
What would be the solution if the empty case with no bullet does not allow the bolt handle to close freely and provides resistance. I am using Lapua brass, FL sizing, and trimmed to 2.005.
Is there any caliber or bullet that this shouldn't be done with? I would assume different bullet weights would require the process be repeated for each?
@@primalrights please walk me through this process, correct me if im wrong. You do this whole process then load that specific bullet to minus .050 etc (how far off the lands do you go?) Then grab a new bullet and do it all over again? Pardon my confusion, im new to the whole precision thing, thanks!
@@jayinla228 How far off the lands you go is determined via load development. You can go to the library section of our website to find an article on that. Yes, you must re-measure with each bullet, as their ogive characteristics are different.
@@primalrights do you mean each bullet you load, even if its from the same box, brand and weight? Or each type of bullet? Seems very tedious if it were each bullet from the same brand, type and weight.
Thanks for the awesome video. I have been using this method for a while now with great success. I know your a avid desert tech guy so here is my question to you. I have an SRS and use this method but only feel for the lands on closing the bolt. I do this for the SRS because it seems like their bolt mechanism acts different than traditional rifles. Also with the SRS it seems very black and White where the lands are because the bolt will either close or not and it’s very obvious. Have you tried this on the SRS and do you have any helpful comments?Thanks again.
With the SRS, you can simply remove the barrel and remove the ejectors from the bolt. If you want to do it with the barrel in the chassis, you can remove the spring from behind the striker and you'll feel minimal resistance.
What about the method where you put a bit of thread locker in a fired case with a bullet. Neck tension is loose enough to where you aren't jamming ogive into lands that hard. Then insert into chamber (no bolt) and let the lands gently push the bullet into case. Thread locker hardens and you can then remove round and measure. No need for going back and forth with seating.
Hi Gregg, thanks for sharing your knowledge. When I get a new barrel , I clean it very good. There’s usually a good bit of machinists oil, etc when they ship it. After it is clean I use my thumbnail to find where I can pull the bullet out without any resistance. The 1st time you try this it will freak you out on how easy you can identify 5 thou in, 10 thou in, just kissing the lands & when you are completely off the lands. I only do this with a new bbl. It’s not practical to if you are wanting to track the lands through the life of the barrel. The method you demonstrated is very good, but as in everything it has to be practiced in order to find the repeatability you should desire. Also, don’t underestimate the OAL gauge. With enough experience you can become very good at getting consistent repeatable measurements. It does take thinking about what you are doing & doing it for a long period of time.
*** Greg you once offered to turn some brass for me free on your IDOD. I declined because of the volume that was involved & did it slow , but steady with my K&M set. Viewers, this is a man with a lot of knowledge & I hope the story about the brass demonstrates his willingness to share & help.
Thanks & God Bless.
FINALLY!!! A guy that knows what he's talking about!
I'm lazy and stopped removing the firing pin.
I just take my dummy rounds
(no primer, powder of course) and use the Hornady comparator tool to just barely touch the lands. Took that data and worked up/down my seating depth from there.
Took awhile, but hey, target shooting is just fun even if my shots were MOA+!
Now I shoot MOA- @ 100 yards out to 600!!! I'm happy!🙂
And yes, you will have to do the whole process over every time you use a different lot of even the same bullet and especially if you go to a different brand and type. Reloading for me is relaxing but it's not for everyone. Helps if you're OCD!!🤫
I know this is an old video but it’s a good one. This is the only way I check my lands measurements. Glad your spreading great knowledge.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video! I also like the fact that you mentioned that this is simply measuring the distance to the lands and you will still need to determine the best seating depth for YOUR particular rifle/load workup.
Great technical vid, thanks
Excellent video very well spoken and informative!
Perfect, not have to buy modified cases to measure is another saving I can make after buying the primal rights primer seater👍
Thanks for the great video. I have used both the Hornaday comaparator , and the progressive shoulder bump to achieve the tightest resize with the easy bolt drop. Your method for determining the ogive to land is basically the same method. this will save me money by not having to buy the specialty tools. Thanks for the instructions, will be putting this to use in the new year, as I have some Barnes 80 grn ttsx that require a little jump!
The system I use is to seat a flat base bullet nose down into a fired resized case and use that as the index for my distance to the lands. When I want to work out the OAL for a new bullet, I press it firmly nose first into the muzzle of my rifle then twist it to scribe a line in the jacket. With a caliper it is then a simple matter to determine the seating depth relative to the ogive.
Great video will follow the steps.
Another thing to note is this needs to be done for EVERY different bullet that you plan to use in that rifle.
I do my measuring fairly similar but i don't remove the firing pin and plunger. By removing those parts and doing your measuring once you put the guts back into your bolt does that not change your measurement as to how far your bullet is to the lands?
It doesn't change the measurement but with the firing pin and ejector in place you are not going to get the feel that you will get without them.
My question is, why would we want to remove the ejector spring tension? Under normal use that spring tension would be there behind the round and force the round back into the lands however much thousandths! Not getting an accurate reading when we're seating off the lands. Am I wrong or just over thinking the process?
Hope he answers this. My same question. Thanks sir in advance primalrights.
When you resize your case, you bump the shoulders back 1 or 2 thousands. After, when you chamber your round, even if the spring pushes the case forward, it cannot move more than 1 or 2 thousands forward. So let's say you seat your bullet 20 thousands off the lands... in reality it could be 18 or 19 thousands off the lands... For me that's a pretty much negligeable.
So doesn't that mean you don't really need to remove the ejector plunger? Or does that simply buy you "feel" to the lands?
Wouldn’t it be better to do this with the plunger still in, pushing the case foraward as this is how the case will be positioned when actually fireing live rounds, or not?
No, strip the bolt before doing this method
Fairly new to reloading. I’ve been setting bullets 10 thousandths off the lands with the afore mentioned non accurate method. If I do this process with a fired and resized cartridge, 10 thousandths off the lands is where you should start to not have any pressure issues?
10 thousandths is typically a good starting point, if all other considerations such as magazine length will allow it.
Hi! I really want to follow your method, but Browning just told me today to not disassemble the ejector plunger on my x-bolt long rifle (the pin must be factory set). Is there any advice without removing the ejector plunger with a fire-formed brass (300 win mag)? Thinking about your method, after the plunger is reinstalled, it will naturally push the brass forward, so there is risk of pushing the bullet into the lands after all "was" configured to offset the lands by let's say 10 thousanths. Thoughts?
I have a Fuzion action on the way. But the handle on yours looks different compared to the photos I've seen. Did they change the handle at some point?
When I get my 7mm PRC Primal next year, and I come down there to train with you, to set up dies and fireform the brass, would we be creating this dummy cartridge first using the false shoulder case we create? Would we be fireforming the cases with the bullets at .010" off the lands?
The 7 PRC Primal guide outlines everything in detail.
OK. So that is something I have not seen yet then. 10-4. Thank you. I'll find out soon enough then.@@primalrights
Thanks
Hello, is the TS customs QA knob no longer available?
We will have some newly designed QD knobs available in just a few weeks. Give a call Monday and we’ll get you on the list.
If i have a tight neck chamber and my brass gives me a small amount of resistance, what would you recommend in that situation?
I'd recommend finding where the resistance is coming from. Use a sharpie to determine contact. If it's the neck OD, then you'll need to turn your cases down much more. If it's shoulder, then you'll need to set back a bit more.
That’s a really good idea. I have been using the Hornady tool and I measure 5 times over three bullets from the same lot. Then I take an average and set back. Your way is way more precise! I guess my only question is how often do you re check your marked bullet as your lands start to wear. I assume this would be different based on caliber or your groups starting to open up? I don’t typically chase my lands
I will save the dummy round created during this process for later reference. When I'm interested in checking the land erosion, I will repeat this process with a new dummy round, and can compare it to the original to see just how much erosion there has been. It should be obvious as well that it is perfectly safe to perform this operation with a loaded cartridge, as the firing pin assembly has been removed from the bolt. Thus, after you've achieved your measurement, the "dummy" round can then have the bullet set back and be fired just as a normal round would be.
I find always measuse the lenght og barrle from where it meets the receiver not by inserting a rod to meet the bolt face Tjis allpws for no margin of error and you will have a much safer measurement
What tool did you use to remove the ejector?
ua-cam.com/video/SAaUAaxpFiY/v-deo.html
What would be the solution if the empty case with no bullet does not allow the bolt handle to close freely and provides resistance. I am using Lapua brass, FL sizing, and trimmed to 2.005.
Please see the video in our channel regarding setting up a sizing die. ua-cam.com/video/rRu8NYCq9Y0/v-deo.html&t=
In
How would I do this with a single shot Encore rifle ?
@@johnseptien3138 thanks
Is there any caliber or bullet that this shouldn't be done with? I would assume different bullet weights would require the process be repeated for each?
This only works with one specific bullet. You must create a new measurement with each bullet you use.
@@primalrights please walk me through this process, correct me if im wrong. You do this whole process then load that specific bullet to minus .050 etc (how far off the lands do you go?) Then grab a new bullet and do it all over again? Pardon my confusion, im new to the whole precision thing, thanks!
@@jayinla228 How far off the lands you go is determined via load development. You can go to the library section of our website to find an article on that. Yes, you must re-measure with each bullet, as their ogive characteristics are different.
@@primalrights do you mean each bullet you load, even if its from the same box, brand and weight? Or each type of bullet? Seems very tedious if it were each bullet from the same brand, type and weight.
@@jayinla228 Not each bullet... each different type of bullet. A Berger 6.5mm 140 hybrid will give a different measurement than a 140VLD.
Thanks for the awesome video. I have been using this method for a while now with great success. I know your a avid desert tech guy so here is my question to you. I have an SRS and use this method but only feel for the lands on closing the bolt. I do this for the SRS because it seems like their bolt mechanism acts different than traditional rifles. Also with the SRS it seems very black and White where the lands are because the bolt will either close or not and it’s very obvious. Have you tried this on the SRS and do you have any helpful comments?Thanks again.
With the SRS, you can simply remove the barrel and remove the ejectors from the bolt. If you want to do it with the barrel in the chassis, you can remove the spring from behind the striker and you'll feel minimal resistance.
What about the method where you put a bit of thread locker in a fired case with a bullet. Neck tension is loose enough to where you aren't jamming ogive into lands that hard. Then insert into chamber (no bolt) and let the lands gently push the bullet into case. Thread locker hardens and you can then remove round and measure. No need for going back and forth with seating.
Great video will follow the steps.