Corvair steering box will work by repositioning the pitman arm to point up, and fabricating a bracket to hang the box under the frame. A spicer joint will have to be put in the steering shaft to allow use of the stock columb. The drag-link us close to horizontal on.this set-up. No bump-steer.
Thanks Jerome, I try to keep everything very traditional hotrod without buying parts online. I always use either a 1939 cross steer or a F1 for a push pull steer
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop I had a F-100 steering box in my Model A. It took many turns lick to lock. Bump-steer was so bad that it would change lanes if I hit a tar-heave. The Corvair steering gave much quicker steering with no bump-steer. A VW bus steering damper helped in that regard. The only down-side with the light-duty Corvair box would be using wide tires on the front, creating more scrub friction.
Soooo now ya got me rethinking flathead in my 31. Long story but hey you said shoot me a comment so here ya go. Back story, my dad had a bangin 4cyl but a beat up body on his original 31 he was 16 in 1963. He then traded an old man for a no engine better body which I have now. When Vietnam came around it had a 1956 265 v8 corvette and power glide transmission but don’t believe he ever got it hooked up due to still having original banjo rear. After he came home around 74 I was 6, it was my sit in vroom vroom toy. He sold the power train, left the body and fenders in his parents garage and the frame out in the field next door. There it sat for 20+ yrs. Then I got it in 2005. It had 2 trees growing through it. I got it out and I’ll be damn if the light rust on it didn’t preserve it, no pits or rust pockets. Many years of working on it with little funds and a wild imagination, I’ve got seats, steering column, Vega steering box, 7.5” ford ranger rear, a 32 rear mount fuel tank (he cut the original out) got wooden flooring in, rumble seat conversion, a 302 ford engine bored over .40 mild cam and c6 trans. None of its mounted yet but the seats and floor lol. He split the wishbones and cut them at a lower angle attached to plates bolted onto the frame. I just bolted the fenders and rumble seat in last week. First time it’s been together since early 70’s got the fender bolt kits, woodblock body set the lining between fenders and the welting between body and frame from macs auto. It’s temporary but just wanted to see how it all fit together and it looks sweet. Now I don’t have clue about mounting the engine trans crossmembers and rear axle placement as of yet. Sooo I’m at that stage now of where to go next. I’m in no big hurry but watching you makes me want it faster lol. And thanks for your service brother. I’m a fellow vet, Navy Seabee, steelworker 86-98. I don’t have MIG or TIG I’ve got a Lincoln 225 stick also many years exp building other peoples rides just never the time or money in the past which is why it’s taken me so long to accumulate what I have. I’ll keep watching your vids and hope to gain some valuable intel. Thanks man.
Great info, Zac. Thanks! I want to run an aluminum rad, and have not decided between a ‘32 full height and a Model A stock height. Do you know of any way to make the “look” right using the ‘32 unit with a non-channeled Model A body? Most I have seen cut the rad/grill shell.
I'm planning on running a 1951 Flathead + 3 speed overdrive transmission. Should I just convert the rear end to an open drive shaft? How would I maintain the original trailing arm
Thanks for all the great advice! I am building a 29 roadster and going to us an 8ba v8 and the parts I have from the ford 1939 pickup chassis I have. Did you keep the wide 5 hubs and run the original style juice brakes? I want to convert to disk but keep the wide 5’s - can this be done? I can’t find any write ups that anyone did this- any advice?.
Yes I did, I couldn’t get the clearance I needed on the radiator so I had to cut the firewall. But, I have seen guys get the Flathead to barely fit without cutting the firewall
My grandfather was English, a vet from WWI. He looked down on Americans because they mispronounced the word khaki. He claimed the “correct” pronunciation was car key. This was because he was from near London, and those folks pronounced it that way. We pronounce it kaa key. So…since learning that little detail, I have been humble, non-judgmental when it comes to pronunciation…..
Thanks for sharing, Zac! And, Thank You for your service to our country! That was very helpful info, well presented! Enjoy your week! Be safe!
Thank you Harry! You too!
Corvair steering box will work by repositioning the pitman arm to point up, and fabricating a bracket to hang the box under the frame. A spicer joint will have to be put in the steering shaft to allow use of the stock columb. The drag-link us close to horizontal on.this set-up. No bump-steer.
Thanks Jerome, I try to keep everything very traditional hotrod without buying parts online. I always use either a 1939 cross steer or a F1 for a push pull steer
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop I had a F-100 steering box in my Model A. It took many turns lick to lock. Bump-steer was so bad that it would change lanes if I hit a tar-heave. The Corvair steering gave much quicker steering with no bump-steer. A VW bus steering damper helped in that regard. The only down-side with the light-duty Corvair box would be using wide tires on the front, creating more scrub friction.
watched this again may have flathead in my future great information I sure appreciate you!
Soooo now ya got me rethinking flathead in my 31. Long story but hey you said shoot me a comment so here ya go.
Back story, my dad had a bangin 4cyl but a beat up body on his original 31 he was 16 in 1963. He then traded an old man for a no engine better body which I have now.
When Vietnam came around it had a 1956 265 v8 corvette and power glide transmission but don’t believe he ever got it hooked up due to still having original banjo rear. After he came home around 74 I was 6, it was my sit in vroom vroom toy. He sold the power train, left the body and fenders in his parents garage and the frame out in the field next door.
There it sat for 20+ yrs. Then I got it in 2005. It had 2 trees growing through it. I got it out and I’ll be damn if the light rust on it didn’t preserve it, no pits or rust pockets. Many years of working on it with little funds and a wild imagination, I’ve got seats, steering column, Vega steering box, 7.5” ford ranger rear, a 32 rear mount fuel tank (he cut the original out) got wooden flooring in, rumble seat conversion, a 302 ford engine bored over .40 mild cam and c6 trans.
None of its mounted yet but the seats and floor lol. He split the wishbones and cut them at a lower angle attached to plates bolted onto the frame. I just bolted the fenders and rumble seat in last week. First time it’s been together since early 70’s got the fender bolt kits, woodblock body set the lining between fenders and the welting between body and frame from macs auto. It’s temporary but just wanted to see how it all fit together and it looks sweet.
Now I don’t have clue about mounting the engine trans crossmembers and rear axle placement as of yet. Sooo I’m at that stage now of where to go next. I’m in no big hurry but watching you makes me want it faster lol. And thanks for your service brother. I’m a fellow vet, Navy Seabee, steelworker 86-98. I don’t have MIG or TIG I’ve got a Lincoln 225 stick also many years exp building other peoples rides just never the time or money in the past which is why it’s taken me so long to accumulate what I have. I’ll keep watching your vids and hope to gain some valuable intel. Thanks man.
Cool haircut!
Thanks Carl!
Alot of valuable information here even for other engines than the flatty. 👌
Thank you! I am always happy to help
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop In my case its a 1956 Y-block. 😉
Got some stuff coming your way bud!
Awesome! Thank you I am looking forward to it!
Lots of good info in this video. I picked up on little techniques and tricks you mentioned.
Thanks Bob! I am glad I could help
Mines coming together slowly good info thanks.
Thanks for posting, some great info
I appreciate it, thank you for watching!
I will,thanks.
Thanks for watching
Informative with good production!
Just discovered your channel man!!! Awesome content! Great channel man!!
Thank you I appreciate it!
Thanks for sharing good info.
thank you for watching!
What I think would be REALLY cool would be to shove this and the hydraulic brakes in a model A- and keep it looking original!
A lot of great info!
Great! I am glad I can spread some info!
Great video! What is you distance from crossmember to motor mounts? Working on my chassis now and looking for a baseline measurement.
great stuff...well done
Thank you I appreciate it!
Great info, Zac. Thanks!
I want to run an aluminum rad, and have not decided between a ‘32 full height and a Model A stock height. Do you know of any way to make the “look” right using the ‘32 unit with a non-channeled Model A body? Most I have seen cut the rad/grill shell.
dig the channel man!
Thanks Johnny I appreciate it!
Any tips or experience with an SBF in a ‘40 Ford? Without cutting the firewall?
Without cutting the Firewall yes! But always end up cutting the inner fenders for clearance
If you need more help find me on IG
very cool!
Thanks Steve!
Where is the best place to get a decent deal on brake shoes and wheel cylinders and such for a 1940 hydraulic front brake set up that I have?
Can I put an 8ba in the location of the stock banger without cutting the firewall?
It’s been done, you’ll need to get the 8RT truck water pumps
I'm planning on running a 1951 Flathead + 3 speed overdrive transmission. Should I just convert the rear end to an open drive shaft? How would I maintain the original trailing arm
Zac where did you get your headers?
I made them from scratch Chris, I make and sell header plates
I have a 35 coupe with a flathead ford .. I don' have any outlet plug or fitting @ water pumps How do I plumb a heater core ? any ideas
Thanks for all the great advice! I am building a 29 roadster and going to us an 8ba v8 and the parts I have from the ford 1939 pickup chassis I have. Did you keep the wide 5 hubs and run the original style juice brakes? I want to convert to disk but keep the wide 5’s - can this be done? I can’t find any write ups that anyone did this- any advice?.
Did you cut the firewall?
Yes I did, I couldn’t get the clearance I needed on the radiator so I had to cut the firewall. But, I have seen guys get the Flathead to barely fit without cutting the firewall
Why do people truncate the word veteran. It's not vetrin, it's vet er an.
My grandfather was English, a vet from WWI. He looked down on Americans because they mispronounced the word khaki. He claimed the “correct” pronunciation was car key. This was because he was from near London, and those folks pronounced it that way. We pronounce it kaa key. So…since learning that little detail, I have been humble, non-judgmental when it comes to pronunciation…..