Great information! I am getting ready to put a flathead V8 in a '30 coupe. I have a 1937 donor car with rebuilt engine. I had not thought about grafting the x member in before seeing this video. thx!
Great walk through- thanks. Got a future scheme brewing in the old noggin of trying to get a flathead into my 49 Willys jeep and what I’ve learned from you is that almost anything is possible with some time and creativity. 😎
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop hey - 3 quick questions - 1. are you able to tell me what the overall length of a flathead is from fan to flywheel? 2. I’d like to keep my Jeep’s original Dana trans and transfer case. Are there people who make adapters to get flatheads to fit any trans? 3. For this would you recommend a later flatty without the integrated half bellhousing? Thanks again for a great channel!
I’ve got a 23 model T coupe (phone booth looking thing) and I bought a 30 model a frame for it and a 47 rear banjo. I just need a flathead and trans for this bath tub.
I have heard that splitting the wishbone out to the frame rails will cause a considerable bind in the front suspension and the tires may hit cutting down on turning radius.
Even with the wishbones split on a model A they sit so far in if the tire is hitting them then the tire is also hitting the frame, I haven’t had any steering issues with splitting the wishbones. As far a bind, if you get your caster correct and use tie rod ends to help prevent from bind then there isn’t too much to be worried about, it’s all about getting it set up correct, a lot of guys aren’t sure what they are doing or they do the ratrod thing without getting legit parts, that’s where the problems occurs
Back in the mid 50s, R&C had a series on building an "A-V8". great article. BTW, I would cut the center from the front crossmember. Angling it to leave as much crossmember to resist twist. Or however you imagine 'torquing' the chassis. Since there is only three crossmembers in the frame.
That’s a good idea, part of my idea was that Henery factored in the engine and transmission as adding stiffness to his automobiles, now there is engine mounts up front to where as there wasn’t with the banger engine, I am definitely thinking and planning a lot on making sure the frame is supported. And I would love to find and read that article
Very cool. I'm doing the same with a coupe. Except I'm using a 221 out of a British ford pilot and a 36 gearbox. Im using the stock brakes. A guy called Flathead ted makes a brake kit that make the stock mechanical brakes work well.
For a driver the T5 is definitely the way to go! Mine is a traditional build that I’ll race in vintage drags, if I had a T5 I wouldn’t be allowed to race! Lol
You just saved me a whole lot of heartache and frustration ! Can't believe I was thinking I could just drop a flathead in, like changing in a fresh bullet ! Hadn't given much thought to all the important details ! And shame on me ! I absolutely know better ! Have done a number of hotrod engine swaps before, and should know by now that nothing is ever clear cut ! How much clearance is it there between the firewall after modification, and the fuel tank ? Do we get into clearance problems for the brake rods ? Or should I be considering going to the later model Lincoln hydraulic brakes ? Using an 8b-a with a bell housing adapter ring for a much later model Ford mid-eighties F-150 four speed with fourth gear overdrive for my transmission. Considering using the Flaming River steering shaft system, it seems to give me all the correct geometry, and clearance needed. Do we run into any specific issues between a '29 and a '30-'31 ? I know we have a few differences, but not sure if they are going to directly affect the swap. I know by using the later model trans, I am going to be challenged by the torque tube, any suggestions ? Looking forward to hearing any feedback. Enjoying your videos, but hoping for better sound, have a bit of a hard time understanding you on occasion. Otherwise, keep up the good work !
Thank you for watching! I am still working on my recording and editing skills and I’ll strive to do better! Okay so far as brakes the mechanical rods will be fine with clearance you’ll just have to make a bracket for the emergency brake, I would recommend looking for 39/40 backing plates and spindles so you can switch your system to juice brakes, and as far as torque tube with your transmission you’ll have to switch the torque tube to a open drive shaft, you’ll have to get a puller to pull out the pinion and replace it with one that has a yoke for a drive shaft, if you are going to go into that much trouble I would consider getting a banjo rear out of a flathead V8 car that will have a little more strength than the 4 banger rear, or if you get lucky you can get a rear end out of a 51-52 car that already has a drive shaft set up, just measure the width, when it comes to the firewall most guys don’t have to cut them, and rather modify the breather tube on the back of the intake, some guys have to cut them, I think there might be some discrepancies when Ford was building them and not all bodies are in the exact same location on the frame, but I’ve never seen someone “have” to cut up the gas tank for clearance, so you should be good there
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop No worries on the sound quality, other than you are talking about things that I really want to hear, and know the specifics of ! I totally understand the getting up to speed on the video techniques ! Yep ! You are spot on with the rear axle upgrade ! My actual plan was to just drive it gently, and not apply the available hp. But what's the fun in that right !? By the way, thanks so much for your reply ! It's truly appreciated ! As for all of the Ford bodies not being the same, they aren't ! Ford was not able to keep up with the production demand, and ended up going to outside body mfrs. My dad's 29, is a Briggs body, and from what I understand, is definitely related to the B&S small engine co. There are a number of body styles, that were designed at the time for specific applications, mine was originally a taxi body ! Okay, gotta get back to work ! Thanks again ! You are welcome to stay in touch ! quadsman1@gmail.com My name is Ray.
Right on Ray nice to meet you! You can add me on Facebook or Instagram as Wired Customs LLC, it’s easier to talk there than UA-cam, and my email is wiredcustomsllc@gmail.com
Would there be any issues with trying to fit the 337 flathead, or one with the Ardun heads installed? The 337 is not only larger, but heavier than the other models, and with Ardun heads it would be a foot wider than usual.
They would both fit, but with both of them you can’t run hood sides and both would require modifications to either the firewall or lengthening of the frame
I have a 1930 5 window that I want to put a flat head in but have little knowledge of the motors. I came across a Lincoln 337 but after some research I don’t think that’ll be my best option. Could you please give me your expert opinion?
337 is an amazing motor, price wise you’ll be in it double if what you would have in a 221 or 239 Flathead, it all depends on your budget, skill level and style, there will be more modifications needed to the body and frame to get the 337 to fit, a 221/239 will fit with less modifications
Awesome! Are you recording anything of the car would love to see it, you should run into pretty similar issues/modifications, though not everyone has to modify the firewall
I will be recording it, once I have finished extended my work shop. As I understand 8ba's are a little tighter to fit in than 59s? I'm OK with a few firewall mods, and maybe re working the mechanical fan to save a few inches
I mounted the radiator exactly the same as the original, with two bolts through the bottom with springs under the nuts to keep the radiator from cracking
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop ok sounds good mine is not the original frame so I will have to make some mounting brackets dose there need to be a cross member under neth it or no
@@Mariovlogs-pf4jl that’s correct, when I make a frame from scratch I buy a new stamped steel model a front crossmember, this will give you a place to mount the radiator and the front spring
Yes to some extent, if you wanted to keep the mechanical brakes that’ll be an issue, as far as the body it wouldn’t change anything, boxing the frame is definitely a good thing if warranted to don’t be afraid/worried about doing it, there is a lot of good affordable kits for that, if you’re doing a real hot flathead or any modern engine I would definitely recommend boxing the frame
Great information! I am getting ready to put a flathead V8 in a '30 coupe. I have a 1937 donor car with rebuilt engine. I had not thought about grafting the x member in before seeing this video. thx!
Been putting one of these together in my head for a few years. This is very helpful!
Thank you! I am glad I can help, a lot more info to come!
DUDE! some great info here!
Thank you!
Awesome build
Thank you
Looks like she's going to be a fun little ride
Leonard Walters thank you! Hope to have it finished this year!
Great walk through- thanks. Got a future scheme brewing in the old noggin of trying to get a flathead into my 49 Willys jeep and what I’ve learned from you is that almost anything is possible with some time and creativity. 😎
That’s for sure!!! Thank you for watching!
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop hey - 3 quick questions - 1. are you able to tell me what the overall length of a flathead is from fan to flywheel? 2. I’d like to keep my Jeep’s original Dana trans and transfer case. Are there people who make adapters to get flatheads to fit any trans? 3. For this would you recommend a later flatty without the integrated half bellhousing? Thanks again for a great channel!
I’ve got a 23 model T coupe (phone booth looking thing) and I bought a 30 model a frame for it and a 47 rear banjo. I just need a flathead and trans for this bath tub.
Great video thankyou.
Thank you for watching!
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop oh yeah you’re doing great work there. I have a 1939 Ford Deluxe Sedan that I brought to Florida with me from New Zealand.
@@paulcarr4435 wow that car has practically been around the world, that’s pretty cool!
I have heard that splitting the wishbone out to the frame rails will cause a considerable bind in the front suspension and the tires may hit cutting down on turning radius.
Even with the wishbones split on a model A they sit so far in if the tire is hitting them then the tire is also hitting the frame, I haven’t had any steering issues with splitting the wishbones. As far a bind, if you get your caster correct and use tie rod ends to help prevent from bind then there isn’t too much to be worried about, it’s all about getting it set up correct, a lot of guys aren’t sure what they are doing or they do the ratrod thing without getting legit parts, that’s where the problems occurs
Back in the mid 50s, R&C had a series on building an "A-V8". great article. BTW, I would cut the center from the front crossmember. Angling it to leave as much crossmember to resist twist. Or however you imagine 'torquing' the chassis. Since there is only three crossmembers in the frame.
That’s a good idea, part of my idea was that Henery factored in the engine and transmission as adding stiffness to his automobiles, now there is engine mounts up front to where as there wasn’t with the banger engine, I am definitely thinking and planning a lot on making sure the frame is supported. And I would love to find and read that article
Very cool. I'm doing the same with a coupe. Except I'm using a 221 out of a British ford pilot and a 36 gearbox. Im using the stock brakes. A guy called Flathead ted makes a brake kit that make the stock mechanical brakes work well.
That sounds like an awesome build! What’s all in the kit to make the brakes better?
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop not sure. Look up Flathead Ted in New Zealand. He has a video of it.
@@andrewlevine8816 right on I will, I appreciate it
love all your videos, do you do flathead rebuilds? for customers?
Yes I do! Thank you for watching!
Same question as your last video where are the motor mounts and how did you install them?
ua-cam.com/video/rRX4U5bqIQY/v-deo.html
I have an 8BA in my 28 model a Tudor Rat. Why not use a T5? I had a toploader in it, but I hated it. I love the easy shifting and overdrive in my T5!
For a driver the T5 is definitely the way to go! Mine is a traditional build that I’ll race in vintage drags, if I had a T5 I wouldn’t be allowed to race! Lol
You just saved me a whole lot of heartache and frustration !
Can't believe I was thinking I could just drop a flathead in, like changing in a fresh bullet !
Hadn't given much thought to all the important details !
And shame on me !
I absolutely know better !
Have done a number of hotrod engine swaps before, and should know by now that nothing is ever clear cut !
How much clearance is it there between the firewall after modification, and the fuel tank ?
Do we get into clearance problems for the brake rods ?
Or should I be considering going to the later model Lincoln hydraulic brakes ?
Using an 8b-a with a bell housing adapter ring for a much later model Ford mid-eighties F-150 four speed with fourth gear overdrive for my transmission.
Considering using the Flaming River steering shaft system, it seems to give me all the correct geometry, and clearance needed.
Do we run into any specific issues between a '29 and a '30-'31 ?
I know we have a few differences, but not sure if they are going to directly affect the swap.
I know by using the later model trans, I am going to be challenged by the torque tube, any suggestions ?
Looking forward to hearing any feedback.
Enjoying your videos, but hoping for better sound, have a bit of a hard time understanding you on occasion.
Otherwise, keep up the good work !
Thank you for watching! I am still working on my recording and editing skills and I’ll strive to do better! Okay so far as brakes the mechanical rods will be fine with clearance you’ll just have to make a bracket for the emergency brake, I would recommend looking for 39/40 backing plates and spindles so you can switch your system to juice brakes, and as far as torque tube with your transmission you’ll have to switch the torque tube to a open drive shaft, you’ll have to get a puller to pull out the pinion and replace it with one that has a yoke for a drive shaft, if you are going to go into that much trouble I would consider getting a banjo rear out of a flathead V8 car that will have a little more strength than the 4 banger rear, or if you get lucky you can get a rear end out of a 51-52 car that already has a drive shaft set up, just measure the width, when it comes to the firewall most guys don’t have to cut them, and rather modify the breather tube on the back of the intake, some guys have to cut them, I think there might be some discrepancies when Ford was building them and not all bodies are in the exact same location on the frame, but I’ve never seen someone “have” to cut up the gas tank for clearance, so you should be good there
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop
No worries on the sound quality, other than you are talking about things that I really want to hear, and know the specifics of !
I totally understand the getting up to speed on the video techniques !
Yep !
You are spot on with the rear axle upgrade !
My actual plan was to just drive it gently, and not apply the available hp. But what's the fun in that right !?
By the way,
thanks so much for your reply !
It's truly appreciated !
As for all of the Ford bodies not being the same, they aren't !
Ford was not able to keep up with the production demand, and ended up going to outside body mfrs.
My dad's 29, is a Briggs body, and from what I understand, is definitely related to the B&S small engine co.
There are a number of body styles, that were designed at the time for specific applications, mine was originally a taxi body !
Okay, gotta get back to work !
Thanks again !
You are welcome to stay in touch !
quadsman1@gmail.com
My name is Ray.
Right on Ray nice to meet you! You can add me on Facebook or Instagram as Wired Customs LLC, it’s easier to talk there than UA-cam, and my email is wiredcustomsllc@gmail.com
Would there be any issues with trying to fit the 337 flathead, or one with the Ardun heads installed? The 337 is not only larger, but heavier than the other models, and with Ardun heads it would be a foot wider than usual.
They would both fit, but with both of them you can’t run hood sides and both would require modifications to either the firewall or lengthening of the frame
I have a 1930 5 window that I want to put a flat head in but have little knowledge of the motors. I came across a Lincoln 337 but after some research I don’t think that’ll be my best option. Could you please give me your expert opinion?
337 is an amazing motor, price wise you’ll be in it double if what you would have in a 221 or 239 Flathead, it all depends on your budget, skill level and style, there will be more modifications needed to the body and frame to get the 337 to fit, a 221/239 will fit with less modifications
I'm after doing this but with an 8ba flatty, with the rad in the stock location.
Awesome! Are you recording anything of the car would love to see it, you should run into pretty similar issues/modifications, though not everyone has to modify the firewall
I will be recording it, once I have finished extended my work shop. As I understand 8ba's are a little tighter to fit in than 59s? I'm OK with a few firewall mods, and maybe re working the mechanical fan to save a few inches
I wouldn’t say so, there isn’t too much of a difference and the distributor is in a better place
I would like to see how the rad is mounted on the frame I have 1930
I mounted the radiator exactly the same as the original, with two bolts through the bottom with springs under the nuts to keep the radiator from cracking
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop ok sounds good mine is not the original frame so I will have to make some mounting brackets dose there need to be a cross member under neth it or no
@@Mariovlogs-pf4jl that’s correct, when I make a frame from scratch I buy a new stamped steel model a front crossmember, this will give you a place to mount the radiator and the front spring
if i want to box the frame would it cause some sort of conflict with mounting stuff?
Yes to some extent, if you wanted to keep the mechanical brakes that’ll be an issue, as far as the body it wouldn’t change anything, boxing the frame is definitely a good thing if warranted to don’t be afraid/worried about doing it, there is a lot of good affordable kits for that, if you’re doing a real hot flathead or any modern engine I would definitely recommend boxing the frame
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop in the rust belt boxed frames take twice as long to rust through and break ...or maybe twice as fast 😂
😂😭 tell me about it I am in Virginia lol I can’t find anything with floorboards so I got real good at em haha
Got a 1953 flathead what do I have to change
My A coupe has a 53 olds rocket in it and its not boxed.
Will See oh wow that’s awesome! Quite a bit of horse power for that frame, do you get into the throttle much?
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop I beat it like it owes me money.
😂😂😂😂😂😂 that’s awesome
"It's really simple" haha Ok
Compared to other engine swaps I’ve done it’s relatively simple
once the hipsters change their pants style this traditional fad will die.
It won’t die for me, it’s in my blood!