Yes, this video was posted 2 years ago. However, as the new owner of my dad's 41 Ford, with an 8BA in it, the amount of information is invaluable! I'm going to be putting this truck back together. He tore it down to the frame in 1980, and it's never been back together. His passing and memory deserve to have the truck back on the road.
I have seen earlier 24 studs with clip in bearings instead of floating. From memory you have to be careful with the 8BA head gaskets as they had a front and back with water restrictions in the front 8ba cam also had a gear on the front to drive the dizzy.
@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Music playing in the background, while you're talking. I've enjoyed many of your videos without that distraction and learned alot.
Flattys are definitely getting to be rare birds. Got a 46 super 8 deluxe sedan that has a 53 engine in it that im going to try to get running. Wont be a show car (due to costs) but the goal ot to get her running again. Last ran about 20 years ago so she will need some coaxing to come back to life.
Nice! That’s the exact car I grew up with and learned how to work on car with, beautiful year! Check out my other video “Flathead Resurrection” Episode 1 if you would like some suggestions for a sitting Flathead, Flatheads are becoming more common than past years now, check out there group on Facebook “The Flat Spot” we are 18 thousand members strong now, lot of good information there too
First engine teardown when I was 14, friends dad told us to take a 49 ford flathead down, we did and learned how an engine worked. He was a cool dad as we did it he explained what everything a how it worked. Next year we got a 48 dodge for 15.00 an got it running and drove it to the drive in, with getting pulled over. That could never happen now days. Someone should bring flathead back. ELON can we talk?
I was saying that during the 70s and 80s, as horsepower was way down, so flathead performance would have been fine, with an engine that was much cheaper to build, but now, with the gas engine seemingly on its way out, I doubt that will happen, unless somebody comes up with a miracle fuel that does eliminates the need for a catalytic converter and therefore emits far less carbon dioxide - yes, the catalyst increases carbon dioxide.
I know that would be great, and they could fix the exhaust flow in the block too, but at least ford made millions of flatheads, usually are t hard to find locally, just make sure you talk people down, a lot think they are worth a lot even when they haven’t ran for years
Andre L thank you! I have a couple of each motors, I haven’t measured but I would say they are the same size, if there is a difference it’s just the difference of the bell housing, I would say a lot of “traditionalist” prefer the 59 just for the look, but they still build them like a 8BA
I have an 8RT. It's in my '53 F100. How is it different from the 8BA? One difference I'm aware is the front engine mount is under the crankshaft pulley and sets on the front frame crossmember and not mounted by the water pumps. Is there a difference of performance between the 8BA and the 8RT? I'll be putting a set of polished Offy heads on it.
I have that exact 42 in my garage, super deluxe, but it has a package tray instead of a backseat, so a business mans special? Hard to find parts for,,,, thanks for your information,
My 1941 59 Flathead had a crab distributor setup. Can I swap the crab with a 8ba "normal" distributor by changing the sprocket cover or is there more needed to run the 8ba distributor?
You can, you’ll need a conversion kit and 8BA style timing cover, I would have to say though the 8BA distributor was a significant downgrade from the crab distributor and even the helmet style distributor, they run off of vacuum advance only without a mechanical advance
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Shell Rotella 15w40 diesel oil is known to have zinc in it already. Also found basically anywhere that sells motor oil. Any experience running that in a flatty?
I'm looking at a 1950 F1 pickup online and photo's show 8CM stamped on the heads (24 acorn stud covers not bolts) but I am suspicious that maybe the block is a 8BA . Can you fit a Mercury 8CM head to 8BA block and how can one tell a Mercury block by photo's?
Hello! Technically you can’t be 100 sure if it’s a Mercury block unless you drop the oil pan and look at the crank or pull one head off and check the bore and stroke of the crank, you can definitely mix and match the blocks, worst thing about flatheads is you can’t 100 percent ID and engine without disassembly
I've got an 8ba that I'll get into on day....looking for a deal on some hop up parts now. May have a line on a Mercury crank if I can assess it's condition. Any pointers?
Just stay tuned to the channel and feel free to look through my older videos! A lot of pointers in the videos 👍🏼 also try joining “The Flatspot A Flathead Support Group” on Facebook, a lot of guys helping and giving advice on there
I am getting ready to assemble an 8BA engine. I plan to use a Holley 2bbl Sniper EFI which requires 45 PSI fuel pressure. I will need to use an electric fuel pump instead of the stock mechanical pump which means I will not have a fuel pump push rod in place. I have been told that an oil leak at the push rod bore will severely reduce engine oil pressure. Should I plug the push rod bore hole? If so, I will need to do it very early in the assembly process especially if it requires machining. What say you?
The fuel pump push rod is oiled with the cam lobes since it runs off the back of the cam, it is known to lower oil pressure because removing it causes an internal leak, I would recommend leaving the rod in there and just using a block off plate on the fuel pump stand, I know a lot of guys will just leave the pump on and not hooked to anything, it’s up to you, but I’ve been thinking about using the sniper on my daily driver flathead, what are you going to use to get it from four bolt to three bolt flange?
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop I would rather install a plug either press in or threaded to replace the push rod and install a block off plate to replace the pump stand. As for the injector bolt flange, I am using a Mercury aluminum intake which has a 4 bolt flange. I haven't ordered my Sniper yet so I may have to fabricate an adapter plate to go from the "teapot" bolt pattern to the Holley 2bbl pattern. I forgot to add that I am installing a T3/T4 hybrid turbo set up to blow through the Sniper. I have a set of stainless block hugger headers and enough 2/12" stainless elbows to go forward under the water pumps and up to the front of the intake manifold where I plan to mount the turbo and plumb it into the Sniper. The hardest part is going to be fabricating a bonnet to fit the inlet flange. It should make around 250 HP. If you're interested it's going into a '27 T track roadster.
Edward Werick that sounds like an awesome build! Are you going to post it on the H.A.M.B. or Instagram or somewhere like that I can follow and see it? I am definitely going to put the sniper on my 42 Tudor, after some other projects catch up first
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop I too have some "bench cleaning" to do before really getting into this build. I am not very active on social media but if had your e-mail address I could send you progress reports.
Great video! Is the 8ba and the mercury 1cm the same? I have the 1cm in my car and I’ve never pulled the head or pulled the motor. From what you’re showing they seem to be the same?
Thank you so much for watching, the 8BA would most likely be a 239 with a 3.750 stroke, the Mercury should have the 4 inch stroke making it a 255, huge difference and if your block is really a Mercury it’s Flathead gold
For me it depends on what I am going to put the motor in, technically the most advanced Flathead is the 8BA which is a 1949-1953, it has the best bearings, best crank, best oiling and cooling system, it’s a great motor, if you ask me what is my preferred motor, I would say the 59ab motor which is 1946-1948 motor, it’s the traditional hotrod motor and I like the look with the heads and front facing distributor, hope that helps!
Great lesson. I'm in the market to replace my 60 in a 39 standard. I have a early 50's McCullough supercharger I would like to use. Would it be best to only use an 8BA and/or should I look for a mercury?
Cary Ford 8BA would be best, a 59 would be good but you would have to build it with 8BA parts anyways, if you can find a mercury that already has the 4 inch stroke that would be great as well, but you can just buy a 4 inch for any block. Are you a member of the Facebook group “vintage mcculloch superchargers”? That would be the perfect group to find engine and parts
If you are wanting the 59 style engine mounts then you’ll need an 8RT water pump, you definitely don’t want 59 pumps on a 8BA, you would have to change the whole front accessories to run the early pumps because they are oiled differently, as far as the heads you can run them, you’ll have to plug two holes on the block and one on the head by tapping them with a NPT tap and screwing in a plug, I am a huge 59 fan, but I would have to say the 8BA style head has far greater cooling capabilities, so putting a 59 style head on that block really degrades it, but it does look good!
Perro Blanco Films Garage that’s exactly why I am obsessed with the 38-48 ford flatheads, they just look cooler with the helmet distributor or the crab right on the front!
You’re right, I’m pushing mine to the max and probably going to get around 200hp, they have a lot of torque though, but it’s mostly for nostalgia, and being different than the millions of SBC and SBF, for me personally I am building a traditional hotrod, and building it as if it was done in the late 50s when hotrodding got big, so mine will be a period correct hotrod with no parts newer than 1955
It's more about keeping a piece of automotive history alive and functioning than having tire roasting horsepower. If you've ever been to a car show, it's interesting to see, hear, and be around a car that's as 100% original whether it's a survivor or a painstaking restoration. A model T is a good example of this. Sure, you can build a high performance t bucket with a blown or fuel injected modern driveline and frame/suspension setup, but seeing how something works as it was made gives a look back at something that most have forgotten about. Those that do remember the past, enjoy the memories seeing it again brings back to them. Those that never knew about it, now can learn. It's not always about having the fastest and most powerful car. Sometimes having something that's rare, and makes you happy is the better thing to have.
Why do guys spend tons of money on a four banger, just to have less power than a cheap warmed over small block v-8? Why do guys spend tons of money on a straight six, just to have less power than a cheap warmed over small block v-8? Why do guys use a small block Ford... when it's cheaper to warm up a Chevy small block? Why do guys sink tons of money into an old car... when they could have bought a new one? Well... probably... BECAUSE THAT'S WHAT THEY WANT!!! Why do you drive what you drive??? Same answer!!!
Yes, this video was posted 2 years ago. However, as the new owner of my dad's 41 Ford, with an 8BA in it, the amount of information is invaluable! I'm going to be putting this truck back together. He tore it down to the frame in 1980, and it's never been back together. His passing and memory deserve to have the truck back on the road.
Sounds like a great project! Feel free to message me anytime with questions on Facebook or Instagram if needed!
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop I will!
I really appreciate your information on flatheads! I am new to them but I love them!
No problem at all thank you!
Love to see a flat head any thing other than a S.B.C or L.S.
Same here! LS is overdone at this point
Same here I hate going to car show now ls this ls that no fun almost like going every restaurant with the same food
I have seen earlier 24 studs with clip in bearings instead of floating. From memory you have to be careful with the 8BA head gaskets as they had a front and back with water restrictions in the front 8ba cam also had a gear on the front to drive the dizzy.
Thanks for the extra info David!
Great show guys thanks.
Thanks for the video, I'm learning
frank jamann thanks for watching! I am glad I can help
Great information with distracting noise.
I’m always open for constructive criticism, what noise exactly?
@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Music playing in the background, while you're talking. I've enjoyed many of your videos without that distraction and learned alot.
My 59 has circular center passage ways. It also has a relieved intake deck.
Ryan Forest sounds like an 8RT, otherwise you have a pretty rare block, it has the 59 on top of the cast bell housing?
Yes. 59 on bell housing and inside behind valves.
Lucky you! Take care of that block
Flattys are definitely getting to be rare birds. Got a 46 super 8 deluxe sedan that has a 53 engine in it that im going to try to get running. Wont be a show car (due to costs) but the goal ot to get her running again. Last ran about 20 years ago so she will need some coaxing to come back to life.
Nice! That’s the exact car I grew up with and learned how to work on car with, beautiful year! Check out my other video “Flathead Resurrection” Episode 1 if you would like some suggestions for a sitting Flathead, Flatheads are becoming more common than past years now, check out there group on Facebook “The Flat Spot” we are 18 thousand members strong now, lot of good information there too
You should have also talked about Mercury Flatheads.
First engine teardown when I was 14, friends dad told us to take a 49 ford flathead down, we did and learned how an engine worked. He was a cool dad as we did it he explained what everything a how it worked. Next year we got a 48 dodge for 15.00 an got it running and drove it to the drive in, with getting pulled over. That could never happen now days. Someone should bring flathead back. ELON can we talk?
What an awesome story Joel thank you for sharing
I was saying that during the 70s and 80s, as horsepower was way down, so flathead performance would have been fine, with an engine that was much cheaper to build, but now, with the gas engine seemingly on its way out, I doubt that will happen, unless somebody comes up with a miracle fuel that does eliminates the need for a catalytic converter and therefore emits far less carbon dioxide - yes, the catalyst increases carbon dioxide.
I didn't know there was so many differences between the two ha!
I know right! There is even things I didn’t talk about! Lol
What's a complete 8ba worth? With clutch attached. Doesn't seem to turn over. I have one.
Good Video it helped me out .
Love the 42 .
Awesome Video!
Thank you!
Great video!
Scott Brown thank you Scott!
Would love to see the comparison to the 39-42 motors. I have 2 59AB and 1 1942 motor.
Right on I’ll see what I can do, not too much of a difference though other than the center water outlets
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop I know there is a raised ridge around the intake seating area on the 41-42, not sure about the earlier ones.
I just wish they would cast new blocks just picked up another one hoping I can find a good one
I know that would be great, and they could fix the exhaust flow in the block too, but at least ford made millions of flatheads, usually are t hard to find locally, just make sure you talk people down, a lot think they are worth a lot even when they haven’t ran for years
Thank You !
No problem at all thank you for watching
Another difference is the 59 has 24 studs and 8ba has 24 bolts
My 1986 VW Vanagon has the same gear cut as the 59 😆
That’s awesome! Lol
Awesome video, isn’t the 59ab shorter front to back vs. the 8ba? And that’s why the 59 is more desired in AV8 cars?
Andre L thank you! I have a couple of each motors, I haven’t measured but I would say they are the same size, if there is a difference it’s just the difference of the bell housing, I would say a lot of “traditionalist” prefer the 59 just for the look, but they still build them like a 8BA
I have an 8RT. It's in my '53 F100. How is it different from the 8BA?
One difference I'm aware is the front engine mount is under the crankshaft pulley and sets on the front frame crossmember and not mounted by the water pumps.
Is there a difference of performance between the 8BA and the 8RT?
I'll be putting a set of polished Offy heads on it.
the ab8 dont they have two different water pumps one for car and one for truck
They definitely do! The way they mount to the frame is completely different
I have that exact 42 in my garage, super deluxe, but it has a package tray instead of a backseat, so a business mans special? Hard to find parts for,,,, thanks for your information,
That’s awesome! Yes sounds like you have a business coupe
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop thanks for the quick reply, now to get started working on it….
@@mattbergseid9196 I wish you good luck
Could you do a video about French Blocks vs 59AB or 8BA?
My 1941 59 Flathead had a crab distributor setup. Can I swap the crab with a 8ba "normal" distributor by changing the sprocket cover or is there more needed to run the 8ba distributor?
You can, you’ll need a conversion kit and 8BA style timing cover, I would have to say though the 8BA distributor was a significant downgrade from the crab distributor and even the helmet style distributor, they run off of vacuum advance only without a mechanical advance
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop And, the 8BA distributor has single points stock, the crab and the helmet both have dual points.
Question what engine oil do you recommend for the 8BA flat head
It all depends on what area you live in and what temperatures the car is going to be, I live in Virginia and I use 15w40 and buy a zinc additive
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Shell Rotella 15w40 diesel oil is known to have zinc in it already. Also found basically anywhere that sells motor oil. Any experience running that in a flatty?
I'm looking at a 1950 F1 pickup online and photo's show 8CM stamped on the heads (24 acorn stud covers not bolts) but I am suspicious that maybe the block is a 8BA . Can you fit a Mercury 8CM head to 8BA block and how can one tell a Mercury block by photo's?
Hello! Technically you can’t be 100 sure if it’s a Mercury block unless you drop the oil pan and look at the crank or pull one head off and check the bore and stroke of the crank, you can definitely mix and match the blocks, worst thing about flatheads is you can’t 100 percent ID and engine without disassembly
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Thanks. You've broadened my knowledge immensely.
I've got an 8ba that I'll get into on day....looking for a deal on some hop up parts now. May have a line on a Mercury crank if I can assess it's condition. Any pointers?
Just stay tuned to the channel and feel free to look through my older videos! A lot of pointers in the videos 👍🏼 also try joining “The Flatspot A Flathead Support Group” on Facebook, a lot of guys helping and giving advice on there
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop I will. And did. Your doing a fine job! Thanks
I'm a novice. Which flathead do you prefer?
I am getting ready to assemble an 8BA engine. I plan to use a Holley 2bbl Sniper EFI which requires 45 PSI fuel pressure. I will need to use an electric fuel pump instead of the stock mechanical pump which means I will not have a fuel pump push rod in place. I have been told that an oil leak at the push rod bore will severely reduce engine oil pressure. Should I plug the push rod bore hole? If so, I will need to do it very early in the assembly process especially if it requires machining. What say you?
The fuel pump push rod is oiled with the cam lobes since it runs off the back of the cam, it is known to lower oil pressure because removing it causes an internal leak, I would recommend leaving the rod in there and just using a block off plate on the fuel pump stand, I know a lot of guys will just leave the pump on and not hooked to anything, it’s up to you, but I’ve been thinking about using the sniper on my daily driver flathead, what are you going to use to get it from four bolt to three bolt flange?
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop I would rather install a plug either press in or threaded to replace the push rod and install a block off plate to replace the pump stand. As for the injector bolt flange, I am using a Mercury aluminum intake which has a 4 bolt flange. I haven't ordered my Sniper yet so I may have to fabricate an adapter plate to go from the "teapot" bolt pattern to the Holley 2bbl pattern. I forgot to add that I am installing a T3/T4 hybrid turbo set up to blow through the Sniper. I have a set of stainless block hugger headers and enough 2/12" stainless elbows to go forward under the water pumps and up to the front of the intake manifold where I plan to mount the turbo and plumb it into the Sniper. The hardest part is going to be fabricating a bonnet to fit the inlet flange. It should make around 250 HP. If you're interested it's going into a '27 T track roadster.
Edward Werick that sounds like an awesome build! Are you going to post it on the H.A.M.B. or Instagram or somewhere like that I can follow and see it? I am definitely going to put the sniper on my 42 Tudor, after some other projects catch up first
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop I too have some "bench cleaning" to do before really getting into this build. I am not very active on social media but if had your e-mail address I could send you progress reports.
Edward Werick you don’t have to go as far as updates but I wouldn’t mind some pictures every once in a while, my email is wiredcustomsllc@gmail.com
Great video! Is the 8ba and the mercury 1cm the same? I have the 1cm in my car and I’ve never pulled the head or pulled the motor. From what you’re showing they seem to be the same?
Thank you so much for watching, the 8BA would most likely be a 239 with a 3.750 stroke, the Mercury should have the 4 inch stroke making it a 255, huge difference and if your block is really a Mercury it’s Flathead gold
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop; Is there any structural difference between the late model Mercury and Ford blocks ???
@@daleostrom3613 structurally speaking, the 49-53 (US) blocks are the same exact block
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop; Thanks, I have one out of a 2 ton log truck and one out of a 53 Mercury.
@@daleostrom3613 no problem at all, the Mercury motor should have the longer and more desirable crankshaft too
What is your preferred stock standard Ford flathead and why? I am looking into buying one and don't want to buy a bucket of fish hooks. Thanks.
For me it depends on what I am going to put the motor in, technically the most advanced Flathead is the 8BA which is a 1949-1953, it has the best bearings, best crank, best oiling and cooling system, it’s a great motor, if you ask me what is my preferred motor, I would say the 59ab motor which is 1946-1948 motor, it’s the traditional hotrod motor and I like the look with the heads and front facing distributor, hope that helps!
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Thankyou.
@@wtongtube no problem! Let me know if there is anything else I can do to help
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Which is overall better a Ford 8BA or 1949 Mercury 8CM?
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop I have heard that the 8BA block is rather crack-prone, but the 59AB is not. Is that true?
Hey what oil do you recommend for a 8ba
depends on where you live, the climate, what temps you will be running the engine in and if it has bee rebuilt in the last 20 years or not
Great lesson. I'm in the market to replace my 60 in a 39 standard. I have a early 50's McCullough supercharger I would like to use. Would it be best to only use an 8BA and/or should I look for a mercury?
Cary Ford 8BA would be best, a 59 would be good but you would have to build it with 8BA parts anyways, if you can find a mercury that already has the 4 inch stroke that would be great as well, but you can just buy a 4 inch for any block. Are you a member of the Facebook group “vintage mcculloch superchargers”? That would be the perfect group to find engine and parts
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop I never knew about them. Thanks for the tip.
Cary Ford no problem at all! 🤙🏼
Can we use 59 pumps on 8ba? What about the heads are they interchangeable? Great vid!
If you are wanting the 59 style engine mounts then you’ll need an 8RT water pump, you definitely don’t want 59 pumps on a 8BA, you would have to change the whole front accessories to run the early pumps because they are oiled differently, as far as the heads you can run them, you’ll have to plug two holes on the block and one on the head by tapping them with a NPT tap and screwing in a plug, I am a huge 59 fan, but I would have to say the 8BA style head has far greater cooling capabilities, so putting a 59 style head on that block really degrades it, but it does look good!
Wired Customs LLC the 59 looks far better to me , but of course the 8ba is a better engine, I love the original distributor location and looks
Perro Blanco Films Garage that’s exactly why I am obsessed with the 38-48 ford flatheads, they just look cooler with the helmet distributor or the crab right on the front!
Wired Customs LLC is possible to mount the original 59 distributor on a 8ba?
Perro Blanco Films Garage it is but you would have to change the cam and timing cover, might have to change the crank too
Like your tatto. Come and take it, my philosophy too. Flat heads 4 ever.
Hell yeah! Thanks man
I am .just wondering why you would want one of those old engines? The flathead has low compression so it could never make a whole lot of power.
You’re right, I’m pushing mine to the max and probably going to get around 200hp, they have a lot of torque though, but it’s mostly for nostalgia, and being different than the millions of SBC and SBF, for me personally I am building a traditional hotrod, and building it as if it was done in the late 50s when hotrodding got big, so mine will be a period correct hotrod with no parts newer than 1955
That's because real hot rods don't have valve covers
It's more about keeping a piece of automotive history alive and functioning than having tire roasting horsepower. If you've ever been to a car show, it's interesting to see, hear, and be around a car that's as 100% original whether it's a survivor or a painstaking restoration. A model T is a good example of this. Sure, you can build a high performance t bucket with a blown or fuel injected modern driveline and frame/suspension setup, but seeing how something works as it was made gives a look back at something that most have forgotten about. Those that do remember the past, enjoy the memories seeing it again brings back to them. Those that never knew about it, now can learn. It's not always about having the fastest and most powerful car. Sometimes having something that's rare, and makes you happy is the better thing to have.
Why do guys spend tons of money on a four banger, just to have less power than a cheap warmed over small block v-8? Why do guys spend tons of money on a straight six, just to have less power than a cheap warmed over small block v-8? Why do guys use a small block Ford... when it's cheaper to warm up a Chevy small block? Why do guys sink tons of money into an old car... when they could have bought a new one? Well... probably... BECAUSE THAT'S WHAT THEY WANT!!! Why do you drive what you drive??? Same answer!!!
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop do these engines take turbo-charging easily? That seems to the only to really get a lot of power out of these engines.
your twin is better looking😆
😂😂 thanks! I’ll try harder
You have good information 👍
Can you help me preserve my 8ba?
How can I contact you?
You can look me up and message me on Facebook or Instagram as Wired Customs