SRENE Anchor

SRENE Anchor
rockclimb.video
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Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to include maximum information in a concise way that is easy to understand and assimilate. For that reason most chapters are built on the knowledge acquired in previous ones (e.g., Rope Basics → Top-Roping → Lead Climbing → Sport Climbing → Trad. Climbing).
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Rock climbing is fun but there is an element of risk. In some situations if you are not careful, the chances of serious injury or death are very real. A safety oriented mindset is essential.
The right attitude includes not thinking that just by watching videos and reading articles you will become a safe and experienced climber. Experience comes with practice. Practice means making occasional mistakes and learning from them.
We believe qualified in-person training should be the main way of learning and progressing in rock climbing. A good mentor, guide or teacher will make learning as safe as it can be, by assessing your level and every situation.
Our videos are meant to inform and entertain. Although our videos can be very helpful, they are not meant to replace in-person teaching by a qualified professional, nor they are meant to replace reading and understanding the instructions and manuals of rock climbing equipment-which we strongly advise you to do. (Manufacturers recommendations occasionally change, and it is a good idea to stay updated by visiting their websites.)
Have fun and be safe out there!

[@space9277]

I've seen the extra E in serene be used for efficient. Meaning no unnecessary gear or extra equipment when building the anchor. Adding more points means more places for things to fail.

[@alessandroiotti8620]

excellent videos. With regards to anchors, I was reading the book from John Long where lots of focus in on mutlidirectional anchors. He often refers to placing oppsitional gears to prevent the anchor to fail when a belayer belays a leader on multipitch. Would be great a video on this topic especially on how to link the oppositional gear to the upper gears/masterpoint. thanks!

[@SneekinNeek]

another high quality vid thanks! Can you go more into why you prefer cordelete over slings?

[@videoracles]

Here is Roddy's reply:
Great question! A cordelette is a convenience, not a necessity. On long routes in the mountains when I am swapping leads with my partner and carrying as little weight as possible, I do not bring a cordelette. In that case, I build my anchors with a double-length sling, and use the climbing rope as needed. When I’m guiding, I don’t want to incorporate the climbing rope since I’m leading consecutive pitches. And generally, when weight is not a concern, a cordelette has several advantages over a sling: I carry a 22-foot cord, so it’s longer than a double- or even a triple-length sling making it easier to build a three-piece anchor without any additional material. Cord is generally more abrasion-resistant. It also works better for friction hitches, which can help with rope ascension or haul systems. You can untie the knots that make your cordelette into a loop, and use the full length of the cord for anchor-building or rescue applications (haul systems, load transfers, etc)-not an option with a sewn sling.