Does your Porsche Creak? (996/986 Control Arm Replacement) DIY!
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- porsche 911,Porsche control arm,996 control arms,porsche suspension,porsche boxster suspension,boxster creaking,porsche 911 suspension,996 suspension creaking,Porsche ball link,how to replace bushings,lower control arm,porsche diy,porsche 996 suspension,996 Suspension Lower Link - Control Arm Replacement DIY!,,986 control arm,boxster suspension,boxster suspension rattle,porsche boxster suspension,boxster control arm
NOTE: We had a problem with the Meyle control arm! It is longer than the original. We have since replaced both front arms with OEM Control Arms.
Hi All, This is a How-to DIY to replace the Lower Link Control Arm on a Porsche 996. The car we have is a 2004 996 Turbo.
Tools and parts:
• Motion Pro 08-0380 Adjustable Torque Wrench Adapter goo.gl/FhZGNz
• Torque wrench (at least 120 lb-ft)
• 16, 18, 19, and 21mm Wrench, Socket
• PT Blaster goo.gl/1HGVai
• Hammer
* Control Arm amzn.to/2RsmBrG
(MAKE SURE IT IS AN OEM PART!)
You can find parts and tools here: www.amazon.com...
Social Media and Websites:
Facebook Page: / heidi-and-frannys-gara...
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Twitter: / heidifranny
Website: heidiandfranny...
Merchandise:www.storenvy.co...
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Main Shooter:
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Car Cameras:
Sony FDR-X3000 (goo.gl/P6XdYZ)
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Drone:
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Music in video: Great track Nicolai!!!
Drive by Nicolai Heidlas Music / nicolai-heidlas
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of “Heidi and Franny’s Garage”, We cannot guarantee against the improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. “Heidi and Franny’s Garage” assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. “Heidi and Franny’s Garage” recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of “Heidi and Franny’s Garage”, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not “Heidi and Franny’s Garage”.
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To anyone doing this at home-- remember the bushing bolt should be tightened when the suspension is pre-loaded at proper ride height, or the bushing will tear more quickly over time. Just something a lot of people may not think about. Great videos, btw :)
Thanks for the reminder!
If I don’t have a lift, would I need to drive it up on ramps in order to tighten the bushing bolts with the suspension pre-loaded?
Great explanation thank-you I have now confidence in attempting it
5 years later and it's my turn to discover your excellent tutorial! Thank you very very much!!🙏
The little thing you mention like the wedge supporting the wheel from dropping are the details that are making your videos amazing!
Damn, you give such great advice! Your little *asides* on how to do this or that are golden.
Excellent showmanship. Thanks
Yet another superb video thanks. You have a calmness about the way you work, always letting the tool do the job (which not everyone does!), and clearly considerable knowledge. The torque wrench adapter is a genius tool, and I’ve ordered mine after watching this. Thanks for what you do, it’s soooo useful (and I’ve worked on cars for 30 years!). 997 TT in my garage 😊👍🏻
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. Speaking of experience, to avoid skinning your knuckles or injuring your hands, I never PUSH a wrench on tough parts. If it slips, your hand is mincemeat (it lets loose and hits something hard or sharp on the machinery)! I always PULL on tough parts, and I am mindful of where my hand will fly if it slips. Wearing thick leather gloves is another precaution when working on tough parts. Also, I believe the less brute-force way to remove those tapered shanks on suspension parts is to use a puller, similar to a gear puller, but that would require more disassembly in order to get it in place. With a puller, there is no banging, rather a controlled turning of a screw to apply pulling force. I worry about cracking metal parts with hammer blows. Of course, if it's a bad part to begin with, who cares, but what about the mating part? Thank you for such a clear and helpful video! Just adding my two cents!
I love this video so much! Explanation and demo is super clear. You are saving 996 Turbo owners so much money and stress. Thank you for the exceptional training.
Not at all who I would have guessed to be a sport car mechanic, but kudos to you. You are obviously very knowledgeable and great at conveying what you are doing to your audience. Thank you!
Thanks soooo much! I lifted my beloved 986 this morning for an oil change and noticed this exact problem (plus a leaky shock). This is just a perfect tutorial. You rock!!
Wonderful. You give me courage to move on projects!
Great job as usual! Coat the rubber bushings and CV boots, all around with 303 Aerospace Protectant to keep those soft and protected.
That is good stuff!
glad i found your channel. your explanations are very thoughtful!
Yea! We are glad you found it too :)
I so love your pink work fleece ;-) thanks for the video from Denmark.
Just to repeat what everyone else is saying, great how to video, a lot of care and attention obviously has gone into the production. A 996 that I am buying apparently needs this doing. I feel a lot more comfortable with this having watched your video. A 996 Turbo engine tour showing what can and cant be tackled would be a great series to watch :) keep up the good work. Subscribed.
Excellent video! I’ve watched hundreds (thousands?) of car repair videos over the past decade, but this one taught me a very useful thing I’ve never seen before: torque wrench adapter for awkward access. That’s brilliant! I was also impressed at how you captured the creaking sound by having Heidi scamper alongside the car with a camera... as you slowly drove across cracked pavement (we could see her reflection in the nicely waxed car paint). Usually people just simulate the problem by moving the control arm on a stationary car. It’s very cool to see it in real life, with the car driving.
Wow! That's super nice! Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it :)
This is the best channel I’ve come across for providing a clear and informative description of how to carry out the work.
Great to hear!
Hi, Thanks so much for taking the time and effort delivering clear and concise instruction and simpyfying what could basically be a difficult task, I followed your condenser change a few months ago which gave me the confidence to tackle the job myself, purchased price for 2 Condensers and a drier less than £200, re fill £75. Price from my local indy for parts and 6 hours labour £1,150. Had a major service last week from my Indy...... Told the coffin arm needed doing, Part £350 and 4 hours labour, the price alone left me with dread, the image in my head was far more difficult than it looks underneath the car. That video makes the removal and install look maneageable. Even for me. I will be able to do this job and save myself a fair chunk of money. Thanks Fran !
Thank you. Very helpful.
You have no idea how awesome it is that you made this video! I was so surprised someone had the exact tutorial I needed on this not so common car
Yea! Glad it was helpful!
Great video. I have to admit in that tight space the adapter for using the wrench with the torque wrench is amazing. I always hate trying to remove those tapered fittings. Sometimes that is the most difficult part of the job.
Tim Gossett have you got one yet?
Not yet but I am just in case I need it for work on my Boxster. Man talk about tight areas to get in to.
Absolutely brilliant! Thank you, it's such a help and I'm now not so worried about tackling it at home myself.
Excellent advice, clear precise steps, very well presented.
NOTE: UPDATE! We had a problem with the Meyle control arm! It is longer than the original. We have since replaced both front arms with OEM Control Arms. The process is the same :) It was only in for a few days and it was SUPER stuck. Just rented a ball joint splitter from the FLAPS and it did destroy this part, but it did get it off! The original had be on since new and popped right off with just a whack.
Hi All, This is a How-to DIY to replace the Lower Link Control Arm on a Porsche 996. The car we have is a 2004 996 Turbo. If your car is squeaking up front at low speeds, it is probably this...
Tools and parts:
• Motion Pro 08-0380 Adjustable Torque Wrench Adapter goo.gl/FhZGNz
• Torque wrench (at least 120 lb-ft
• 16, 18, 19, and 21mm Wrench, Socket
• PT Blaster goo.gl/1HGVai
• Hammer
* Control Arm amzn.to/2RsmBrG
(MAKE SURE IT IS AN OEM PART!)
You can find parts and tools here: www.amazon.com/shop/heidiandfrannysgarage
If you have any questions or comments please leave them below.
Thanks! Franny
Great! And now I have a new tool to buy (the wrench to ratchet adapter). Some people prefer to tighten the bolts for bushings with the suspension loaded at road height to reduce the amount of flex they get to prolong bushing life and make the bushing twist less of a contributor to suspension response. I haven't done that consistently not having a 4 post lift, but it looks like it'd be easy for you to put the car back on the 4 post, and loosen then tighten the bushing bolt with the suspension at ride height and maybe make the bushing last longer. I hope you two are enjoying your weekend cruising in beautiful cars!
Thanks for that. I wish there had been more in the service manual, but I totally get what you are saying. I will get another opportunity with all that as I will be replacing the other side in a couple weeks just to be consistent and after talking to a shop owner, I think I'll be switching back to the actual OEM part. I understand that the Meyle may not last quite as long as I had hoped. I'll update my comment when I get this all done.
Cool! Thanks for the insider tip... and always excellent content!!
Awesome/helpful video! I too bought a Meyle lower control arm about a week ago except it’s for a 2007 cayman. Question, was the product longer due to a defect, or was it normal but longer due to being aftermarket and would this be an issue with me driving with it?
Jared Torres it throws the alignment off. If you have not installed it yet, return it. We talked to a shop here locally who said the parts do not last long. Maybe a year. So sorry, we will do an update video. Get the OEM part from Sun Coast or someone who carries the OEM. Also, we did both control arms and not just one. The aftermarket part was also extremely difficult to remove after one week and seems to be a softer metal, but we can’t confirm. So sorry. Costly mistake for us. Heidi
Just ran across your video and I am very impressed with your thorough work. Thanks for making these videos!
My C4 has been creaking and this video is the best. I thought it was coming from the struts. Thanks Franny. Love your very informative videos. Now I can tackle this with ease.
Thanks for the video I plan on doing this soon as the weather warms up.
Franny thank you so much for sharing this. Im experiencing a clacking sound so Ill investigate this asap.
excellent work, and video! tks!
So easy wow, didn’t expect this car to be simple like this
You guys are nothing but REALLY SUPER! I have this problem and now I will fix it! And, what a wonderfully lighted video. THANK YOU!!!
Glad it helped!
How was your relacement? does it solve the creak?
I really enjoyed your video. Thanks!
Excellent video. I have a 2011 Panamera s and my lower control arm bushings are pretty shoot. I really appreciate your video. It has reminded me to check the lower control arm ball joint before hand. It will either be control arm bushing and complete control arms. Thanks again
You are simply amazing. I enjoy your detailed videos. Thanks for taking the time to make them.
Good job! Been wrenching for 30 years and I’ve never seen that torque wrench attachment tool. Ordered! 😃
You will wonder how you lived without it. :)
One of the best channels on youtube 😀
Heidi and Franny - great job - clear video - easy to follow - i agree about the wedge on the wheel - i didn't catch the name of the little tool though - that is a great little device - your video really helps as that is exactly a project that i am going to tackle very soon parts are on order !
I'd been worried about replacing the control arms myself but I've ordered the parts (plus a ball joint separator) and, thanks to you and your video, I'm now looking forward to the project!
It was not that bad. Hopefully you did NOT order the meyle and got the OEM parts. If you did not, spend the extra money on an OEM part. Trust us!
@@HeidiandFranny Absolutely believe the OEM product would be best but price is exhorbitant when converted to NZD. Bought "German Made OEM" from the UK instead for around 25% of the price! If they're rubbish I'll bite the bullet and buy Porsche parts instead.
I just found this channel. This is excellent. Torque and socket sizes? Amazing. Keep up the great content.
Great job 👍
We need Heidi in our lives. Doing this this week in my 986!
You're the best teacher in the World!
I just pulled the control arms off my 986 yesterday and used a ball joint separator tool that I bought off Amazon. This tool looks like a clamp. You slide it over the ball joint and then tighten a bolt at the end of the tool to apply force to the top of the ball joint. As the video indicates, these are a pain in the ass to remove, especially if you have a higher mileage car. I certainly couldn't get mine out with a hammer and a 1/2" extension. I'd recommend the tool.
Excellent video, I really appreciate the trouble you take to properly light and shoot each step of everything you do.
Thanks! Lighting is one of the hardest parts ;)
Just a quick snippet of info, it is usually good practice to pre-load the suspension before torquing the control arm, otherwise the bushing can bind when the car is lowered back to the ground.
Thanks for the tip!
Realy nice by-the-book replacment. Great job 🔧🔩
Great job Franny. I've already done this job on my car, I didn't do a video on it .... But your videos are so clean and well done, they're just fun to watch lol
Thanks Clint, send me the link to your video and I'll put it in the description. Always great to get different looks at solving a problem :) I hope all is well. Franny
awesome videos!! thank you for sharing!
Great video, I need one of those torque extenders!
You will be excited about our next video.
Another awarding winning video..thanks Franny.
Sweet Vid! Making it look easy-peasey as always. I just ordered a super cool "Heidi and Franny's Garage T-shirt" form your website. I will make sure I wear it when I do much less technical things like detail my car or change my oil. Either way I hope it gives me some mechanical super powers when I wear it! I'm going to have to get a few more for friends.
Oh my gosh! I think you are the first! I don't know if it guarantees super powers, but I wore one on the last video and it all went easy peasy, so that must be it! Wow! Thank you so much! I hope it is awesome. Heidi is actually out picking up the P.O. Box mail with hers :)
Ball joint separator incase anyone is reading this. Slamming on the control arm with a heavy duty sledge works too. But it will require a heavy swing...
As Rafeal said,you MUST compress the spring before tightening the inner bolt,otherwise it will tear the bush apart,there is also no way that small hammer will ever release the ball joint from the hub.I have replaced hundreds and always had to use ball joint splitter with threaded bolt.
Chris
Hi! Thank you SO MUCH for posting this. Super pedagogical and gives me the courage to go ahead with this. Thanks!
You are very welcome! Let me know if you run into any snags... Franny
Heidi and Franny's Garage thank you! Earlier today I was THIS close to ordering an aftermarket arm and not OEM. With tires at a million dollars each, I am SO lucky I found you! Love from Sweden!
We meant to post back after we got an alignment but it was spot on! No need to adjust. The OEM part is that good.
Good luck with the repair! :)
Andreas Bergius yeah, it is expensive but get the OEM.
Heidi and Franny's Garage Hi again! Ran this by a supplier in Sweden who asked if you might have recieved a Meyle 997 arm instead of a 996 one? If you still have it, the serial no might help you out?
Congrats on the cars and the detailed video!
However, I do need to point out that the final torque of any suspension component HAS to be with the vehicle on the ground.
Meaning, the bolts need to be tightened with the vehicle on level ground and at ride-height.
If you adjust it in that position, the bushing is clocked in the position with the tire raised, this will accelerate the wear on the bushing and cause unintended handling characteristics.
You can find this procedure detailed in factory manuals and perhaps other you tube tutorials.
Also, for safety and visibility, it's always best to remove the wheels, rotors, heat shields, and anything else that you may accidentally damage while hammering out a suspension component. A ball-joint separator works like a dream here.
I appreciate the nice tutorials, but sometimes bad information is worse than no information.
Best of luck!
Such a wonderful channel ;)
Thanks!
Great job! I ended up replacing both front control arms when I replaced front outer cv boots. I like the adapter tool you have. I had to get me car realigned after that.
Hi Chris, We got an alignment too. I need to film a follow-up video. The numbers were almost all spot on.
What brand of control arms did you purchase & install? Porsche OEM are very pricey. Thanks!
My 996 C4 just had "the creak" as well... but I had my local garage swap it out for me - I am just not adventurous enough to try it myself! ;) When the old arm was removed, we found someone had tried to "repair" the cracked seal with some kind of caulking/sealing material. Very odd!
Thanks for sharing! I'd of never attempt this but now that I saw this video. You've made it look easy.
Thank you so much, had this issue with my 986 Boxster, just the tutorial I need.
What a great video! Thank you.
great video thank you.
You probably already know, you can get ball joint splitters. It slides over the rubber seal and prizes the joint apart. The commercial trick is exactly what you did, hit the arm with a hammer.
Thanks! Yeah, we had to rent one to remove this aftermarket part. Arrrg... It was only in for a fey days and it was SUPER stuck. Just rented one from the FLAPS and it did destroy this part, but it did get it off! The original had be on since new and popped right off with just a whack. F
Great job on this video.
I'd recommend not beating on the top of the ball joint stud, especially if you need to reuse the arms. It can deform the threads on the ball joint. I just had to use a file and die to repair the threads on a set of GT3 lower control arms that some gorilla had beat on to remove. Instead use a ball joint separator, they're $20 from Harbor Freight
Great video, where were the torque setting found? Shouldn't the components be torqued with the suspension under load? It apprears the wheel is suspended.
Great video. Are the rear parts similar to fit? Easier? Harder?
I finally got the LCAs in!
Great video, would have been great to see the after shot too if the car and how it sounds now
Totally quiet and not a creek at all.
Perfect tutorial. Thanks
Thanks! Glad you liked it :)
thanks a lot from france :-)
Thx for posting! Your videos are awesome. Will you be doing this job on Saturday. Looking forward to some firm steering. I've been replacing one part at a time to determine where my shimmy is coming from.. Very much improved with drop link r&r and sway bar bushing swap. This will be the last part.
Great video
Terrific video and much appreciated , may I ask if there was a reason for performing the replacement with the wheels on ? Wouldn't access be better with the wheel off ?
You are totally right. It probably would give better access. My thinking was that if I'm pulling and pushing on the suspension and, heaven forbid the car moves off a jack at least the wheels would be there to catch the car.
Really nice work!
Hi Franny
Could you please post the name / a link to the tool you User to transfer the torque?
Best regards, Frank
You make this look and sound so easy. I never work on my own cars. I have had my 01 996 C4 for 6 months. Shop repairs are very expensive. I am considering doing this repair on the right side. When you say OEM parts - do you mean the Porsche OEM or any OEM on Pelican Parts or Part Geeks that have matching part numbers? Should an inexperienced person like me try this repair? Should the local Porsche guy do it? What about someplace like my regular garage that installs tires? Please keep the videos coming. Thank you!
Great video!
Thanks!
Thanxs for telling the metric wrench sizes. I own a 987.2 Cayman S and as I am very but very much boared during this lockdown, I had decided to lower my car. Actualky it looks totally odd with the genuine PASM suspension. So I am obligated to make it look nornal, looks like a city SUV now, horrible.
So I was wondering about the tools I have to get and the sizes.
LOVE this film!! Did this fix the creaking?!!
Yup! That was it :)
For anyone looking for PT Blaster, it doesn't exist.. The product he mentioned is PB Blaster... Pee Bee not Pee Tee. . Just making sure in case anyone can't find it.
You make it look easy!
Do you have a video on toe link replacement?
Not yet. Sorry.
Is it wise to just replace only the bad arm instead of 4 corners?
What's your comment on also replace the control arms as well (or may be just the bushes on them)? to total refresh these wishbone/control arms setup. Many thanks.
Cool educational video!!!!
Well, in this case the rubber boot was actually ripped so it was pretty obvious it was bad whereas the rest of the suspension bits looked great. They really are fairly different. I totally get what you are saying and "while you are in there" not a bad idea to go through everything, but since the rest looked just fine and all we were experiencing was the one part failure I took a wait and see attitude and so far so good.
@@HeidiandFranny I understood your saying as you have the talent to DIY urself, unlike in my case I have to go to mechanics which each time cost labour and time. So let me talk to mine to see how it goes.
To Prevent damage to metal parts and that you are getting ready to bang or Hammer, use a block of wood that's what I use but since you're not reusing that part it really doesn't matter hammering it to remove it
Love your channel. I just purchased a 04 Turbo with X50. Ceramic brakes are not noted on the build sheet however the calipers are yellow . How do I check to see if they are actually ceramic ? I put a magnet to the rotor and it stuck. Thanks , Jim
They look really different and the rotors are actually bolted to the hubs. Ceramics will look like they are brand new with almost no wear!
might want to show how ya jacked up and added supports to the chassis, so you could safely start loosening stuff
Mine only creaks when stationary and moving wheel left. It doesn't matter where in the rotation the steering is, it could be full right but the slightest movement left causes a squeak. I can't figure out where the sound is coming from. Any ideas?
Awesome
Hi Franny, my car creaks the same way but control arm was replaced with OE part 6 months ago. What is quite interesting It creaks when car gets hot :) any suggestion what it could be? :)
Did you have to get a wheel alignment after replacing this? -- Thank you
We did, but everything was spot on :)
love your show ! I have a 996 , 2001 C4 , I read that the meyle's have fitment problems . What about URO parts , are they okay to buy ? thanks for all you help you gals are awesome
From a wear perspective its advisable to replace the other side to match, you noted how slack the ball joint was in the removed part, even though its boot was fine it will exhibit similar wear in the knuckle. An ounce of prevention ...
Craig and Thomas, points well taken. We were not sure about the aftermarket part, which is why we just did one, but looking at it, we probably will do the other, just no video for that one. Heidi
This arm is a wear and tear item though, ie. each arm was equally old, with the same time served on their bushes. The rubber in each will be degraded/perished after 14+ years, I appreciate here the boot failure was the obvious indicator … but the bushes now show imbalance side to side. IMS failures aren't really wear and tear as much as poor design/application in the early design of the bearing and shrouds. At least H+F's 996 doesn't have that to worry about anyway being a Turbo, but for the rest of us ;)
Thomas Headley the turbo has the Metzger engine and does not have the IMS issue. To be honest, I have scoured the Porsche boards and can’t find any IMS failures since the re-engineered IMS replacement hit the market. I heard a rumor of a guy that knows a guy that had to replace his engine due to IMS, but you know how that goes :)
Excellent video Franny! I assume you replaced the entire arm instead of pressing out the ball joint and pressing in a new one because the bushings were also worn? If the ball joint went, the bushings were likely going or already in need of replacement. Buying and pressing ball joints and bushings is not easy, especially if you don't own a shop press, which I don't.
I'm replacing all the suspension, front and rear, on my 97 Honda CR-V, and I very much miss the small sizes and lighter weights of all the parts on my 67 Beetle. I loved that car and it was easy to repair.
I love my Honda too or I would have replaced it instead of fixing it. My mechanic refused to work on it because repairs would cost more than the truck is worth, so I got back in to doing the work myself. It's an exercise in weight lifting, use of jacks to lift and jack stands to act as an extra pair of hands. The parts are big and heavy. It's also an exercise in patience.
Yes, Porsche sells the entire part so I just replaced the whole thing. I loved my three Beetles too. Something about a simple machine that can take you places :)
Hi, I’m in the process of removing my lower control arms on my 991.2 and am having excessive difficulty removing the ball joint. Can you make a suggestion of how I can remove it? I’ve tried a pickle fork and Harbor Freight ball joint remover already!
Ummm... I had such a time removing the aftermarket part. I used a pickle fork and a dead blow and that eventually got it. Heat might help. I have seen that some folks have had to remove the entire thing and take it to a shop to use a press. It shouldn't be that tight :(
I have having a similar noise on my 02 C4 and was wondering if your noise was a clunk over bad roads at slow speed? My noise seems to be coming from both sides. Thank you very much and great video!
Hi Rick, This particular noise presents almost like brake noise as slow (like walking) speeds. The failure is that the dry steel ball is moving inside that plastic insert so it creeks. A clunk would be a bit different though... Could still be the same part - just further gone. Look at the rubber booties. If they are ripped, then the part is done. Also look at your CVs too. If the boots are torn and dirt got in them, they will make noise too.
@@HeidiandFranny Thank you very much for your reply. I have been trying to figure it out now for awhile and visually nothing seems too far gone. I have done the strut tower bushings, Front CV boots, one was torn, and the end links. I am left with thinking it is the Control arms or Wishbone type control arms. Thank you again for the great video.
Another amazing and informative video! It always amazes me how easy some DIY part replacements can be. Can you give us an idea on how much you saved by doing it yourself (cost of part vs dealership parts and labor)?
Hi Michael, I've been thinking about that... The dealership would be at least $450 for the part and a couple hours of shop time at $150/hr so you would be hard-pressed to get out under $800 I bet all things considered. They would want to replace both sides (actually a good idea) and may find other things and I think an alignment probably would be in order after all that so it would go up from there. But, they will get it done right and probably also have a limited warranty. Pluses and minuses... Just the money is pretty different.
Heidi and Franny's Garage I usually wait for the other side to fail with suspension arms Often the other side never fails. What I will do is inspect the boots and replace just them with some fresh grease to save the part. As for alignment if you work on one side at a time as long as the steering wheel is exactly in the same position when driving on a straight road then your alignment has probably not been affected by that repair.
Looking good. I've done Audi front multi links a few times and love the feeling of accomplishment when completed. I've always replaced both sides when it comes to suspension stuff.... just a guess but I bet the other side is close to being wore out as well. As a suggestion it would be nice to know how much you saved DIY'ing vs Mechanic. The savings can be quite a bit.
You are awesome! Great vid. You are smart and a great teacher. Keep the passion going.
A small bump on the brake disc is no big deal. You will not bend it. Cast iron is super stable. Steel will bend, cast iron will crack or break but it would take a big hit to crack it. Cast iron is also very stable when glowing red hot!
Oops. I'm redfaced I just realized that you are dealing with ceramic disc. Sorry! I noticed it whilst watching the rad replacement vid. LOL Good job!