Very good video. Answered some things not in other videos. Will watch it again so I'll have this grind and the standard grind that some call the bottom feeder.
I realize this is an old video but it happens to be exactly what I needed. I just purchased a set of bowl gouges with standard grind and then low and behold this video came up as a suggested video. Thanks!
As always very informative and detailed on the set up and sharpening procedures.... I just bought a grinder, oneway system, and two CBN grinding wheels, and I am going out to my shop to try to replicate your sharpening techniques.... Thanks again!!!
I use a jig on 8 inch beach grinder with white wheels.. I wish I had those wheels on your grinder how beautiful less heat with your style of grinding wheel
Awesome video! Thanks Steve. A true craftsman at work is a wonderous thing! Your emphasis that the jig won't do all the work really got my attention. Thanks for all the effort you put into making such a thorough tutorial
Thanks for making this video Steve. Straight to the point and very useful information. Also appreciate the different camera angles to see exactly what you were doing.
HI Peter, I can check the distance but what is important is that for your grinder, you stay in the upper quadrant of the grinding wheel. You never want to be at the centerline for gouges and skews
Thank you! You took enough time to show it clearly, very good demonstration. I made my own jig something along the lines of the one shown and this will help me set it up better and use it right.Thanks again.
Great job Mr I am startung woodrurner and bought wolverine system for sharpenning . I have big grinder and need the Geiger vertical solution to move up the level of fixture. Can you help me us it possible to buy it sonewhere? Thanks fir support
Great video, well done. This is the perfect tutorial and addressed my situation perfectly. I can't wait to get home tonight and utilize this information.
Awsome info thx for that . Now my gouge i don’t know how to mesure if it’s a 3/8 or 1/2 etc and if it’s a small one like the 3/8” can i make an irish grind with it or should i buy my self one that will be dedicated and better for that grind ? Thx for answering 😉🇨🇦
That was excellent, thanks for sharing it. Have just been fighting with a particularly tough bit of end grain that has been kicking me back out and decided that I needed a different approach. Off to the grinder!
Hi Steve. Thank you for a very informative video. Very helpful to a new wood turner such as myself. The grinder you are using seems to be very fast. I was always taught slow was better for sharpening due to loosing the temper in the steel, but, I had never even heard of the CBN grinding wheels. Does this make a difference? I am more than a little confused. I am on the cusp of purchasing a grinder and wheels any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thank you once again.
I have seen a few turners recommend a 180 grit for shaping and 600 grit for finishing. Are there any benefits or downfalls to either? Thanks for the video!
If you used the 180 grit for that first part of shaping you would take 2 or 3 times longer to get the initial shape. Personally, polishing to 600 grit won't make a lot of difference. Many different opinions on that.
Steve, I am puzzled by your multiple passes on the fine stone. If not trying to shape but just sharpen the edge. Usually, one pass is enough for me to remove the red marker from the tool and the bevel is evenly ground with the fine wheel degree of smoothness. No 80 grit marks left. Am I missing something?
Hi, are you talking about the the final finish of the tool? (Around 16:30) If so, you are right that normally it takes just a single pass if the tool is not new (meaning still requires shaping) At 16:24 I mention "If the tool is not new, this would be done in a single pass" which is what I believe you mean, and you are correct. Since the tool in this video is being shaped for the first time, I need to spend a few more passes getting a convex shape to the side grind, which is not easy to see until the end. For future sharpenings, it should only take a single pass or two, as long as the setup is identical on the next sharpening. I hope I understood your question correctly
Great video, but I'm coming across a bit of a problem. After a few sharpenings I start to get the wing tips near the tip coming back. Am I doing something wrong?
I used the swept back grind for a lot of years, but switched to the 40/40. I like that a lot better and I really never figured out why the swept back wing was of any advantage.
Hi Lyndal, the 40/40 grind has a swept back grind, although it is sharpened with a straight sweep. not a convex sweep. The swept back is useful for shear scraping and that can be done with a 40/40 configuration or something steeper like a 50 or 60 degree grind
Steve, On your Phenolic Blocks for height, can you tell me the thickness you are using and also the angle of the cuts (block) for the tool arm? Are they 45' and did you cut them on a bandsaw? Thanks..... Great Videos......... Jim
I am new to sharpening turning tools. I have constructed my turning shop and now sharpening my bowl gauges I bought on Ebay to the swept back grind. In practice, I have made a mistake or two. Do I grind them back to the standard grind? or what do you recommend Chris? Great vid by the way, thank you.....
Hi, i think you have a really good demo video. I'm in the uk and make wood sharpening jigs similar to the ones you use. would you mind if I put a link to you on your you tube on my sales page please, regards, Mick chambers.
Very informative, thanks, although I have to say my father was a machinist and he taught me to never put my hands near revolving machinery. That was over 50 years ago and I still cringe when I see people do it.
what makes other gouges so much better and more expensive...just the kind of steel and heat treat process? Aren't most all gouges HSS and heat treated? Even the Harbor freight gouges are HSS steel. Don't know how well they are heat treated if at all though. Would knife making steel be a good choice if one wants to make there own like O1, A2, 3V..etc tool steels?
Any steel with an AISI-SAE grade of O is an oil-hardened steel designed to be cold-worked, an A grade is also for cold-working but is air-hardened. Only steel with graded with a T or M is considered a high speed steel, they refer to titanium steel alloys and molybdenum steel alloys respectively. When you say 3v I assume you mean CPM 3V, this is a trade name for a crucible steel alloy with properties close to M2 high speed steel. M2 is sort of an entry level hss, it can't really compete with todays molybdenum and cobalt alloys. So out of the three, you could only use CPM 3V for high speed applications and even then you'd get tools no better than the harbor freight stuff.
Blarg, I disagree with the notion that M2 can’t compete wit say M42 or PM steels. It depends on the application and the design of the tool. I’ve got both M2 and M42 skews for example. They are compatible. I do keep the M42 skew at a slightly steeper angle which makes it better for peeling cuts and harder woods..... but they function comparatively. I hone my skews after they are ground on a wheel. M2 is much easier to hand hone. Regardless of which steel holds an edge longer, my habit is to hand hone with a CBN card before the tool goes dull anyway. For spindle work I wouldn’t hesitate to buy a well made M2 tool. For face work involving lots of end grain cutting, that’s where M42 and the PM steels really shine and stand out.
Steve.....that was excellent and highly instructive. Thank you
Excellent teaching video. Very clear and concise. Makes it easier to acquire this skill.
Thank you!
Steve, I learned from this video, so I too am thanking you!
Great to hear!
I am new to turning and this sort of information is invaluable, thank you so much for your help.
7 year old video and one of the best videos I’ve ever seen. I’ve struggled with getting wings on my 5/8 bowl gouge. Thanks.
Simply the best demo of the process! Thanks so much for this excellent resource!
Very good video. Answered some things not in other videos. Will watch it again so I'll have this grind and the standard grind that some call the bottom feeder.
Well done. Very helpful. Thank you.
Boy, did I learn a lot. Thank you Steve!
Glad to help!
Just re-found this video and it clearly answered my bowl gouge sharpening questions. Thanks.
Very useful as I setup my shop after covid.
Really Useful and weel explained - Irish Grind here we come
I realize this is an old video but it happens to be exactly what I needed. I just purchased a set of bowl gouges with standard grind and then low and behold this video came up as a suggested video. Thanks!
Old but still turning! Thanks for watching
As always very informative and detailed on the set up and sharpening procedures.... I just bought a grinder, oneway system, and two CBN grinding wheels, and I am going out to my shop to try to replicate your sharpening techniques.... Thanks again!!!
Good Job Very Helpful Cheers Steve.
I have a new favorite channel! I've only watched a couple of your videos, but I'm already hooked! They are very clear and thorough.
Old video... but thanks for it! One of the better grind videos I’ve watched so far.
Thank you Steve , I now have better idea of how to sharpen this very useful tool
Great video, superb instructions.
Very helpful video thanks
I use a jig on 8 inch beach grinder with white wheels.. I wish I had those wheels on your grinder how beautiful less heat with your style of grinding wheel
Thanks for sharing this explains a lot
Thanks Steve, I’ve been looking to do my gouges to 55°, very informative.
Go for it!
Awesome video! Thanks Steve. A true craftsman at work is a wonderous thing! Your emphasis that the jig won't do all the work really got my attention. Thanks for all the effort you put into making such a thorough tutorial
Great guide! Thank you for sharing! :)
Thanks great video a lot of great info
Very helpful. Thanks.
Thank you Steve. I am a new turner and have learned the importance of have a sharp too! Your video, helped me tremendously. Thanks again!
Thanks for making this video Steve. Straight to the point and very useful information. Also appreciate the different camera angles to see exactly what you were doing.
Steve very informative what is the distance from the wheel to the pivot pocket on the arm? I also see you're grinding way above centre of the wheel
HI Peter, I can check the distance but what is important is that for your grinder, you stay in the upper quadrant of the grinding wheel. You never want to be at the centerline for gouges and skews
Nicely done
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you for sharing!
great video do you ever hone the inside of the flute
I usually don't but it would help to polish the inside flute (not needed every time you grind)
Thanks .That was very clear and concise.
Thank you! You took enough time to show it clearly, very good demonstration. I made my own jig something along the lines of the one shown and this will help me set it up better and use it right.Thanks again.
What a nice grinder setup. Must be a American made unit
Great job Mr I am startung woodrurner and bought wolverine system for sharpenning . I have big grinder and need the Geiger vertical solution to move up the level of fixture. Can you help me us it possible to buy it sonewhere? Thanks fir support
So much better in explaining... What I needed thanks!
Great video! Ive been hearing about this grind and wanting to use it but didn't know how to form and sharpen. Thanks for the info!
Great video, well done. This is the perfect tutorial and addressed my situation perfectly. I can't wait to get home tonight and utilize this information.
Thanks👍👍
Great video thank you
Great video, packed with a lot of good information. Thanks!
Awsome info thx for that . Now my gouge i don’t know how to mesure if it’s a 3/8 or 1/2 etc and if it’s a small one like the 3/8” can i make an irish grind with it or should i buy my self one that will be dedicated and better for that grind ? Thx for answering 😉🇨🇦
Just watched your video. Great, now I know the proper way to grind my gouge. Thanks
Awesome information, thank you very much for sharing!
Really helpful video. This sweptback grind is so important to good turning.
Many thanks,
Alan.
Wow. Thanks a lot, Steve. Excellent video.
Thanks Steve. This video really helped me out.
That was excellent, thanks for sharing it. Have just been fighting with a particularly tough bit of end grain that has been kicking me back out and decided that I needed a different approach. Off to the grinder!
Nice video very well displayed Thanks
Albert
This video is what I've been searching for.It will be of great use to me.Thank you for sharing it with us.
Chris
Excellent demo!
I need one of those jigs.
Very informative, and very helpful. Thanks.
Where do I find the depth gauge on the bottom of the jig?? ?
Excellent! Thank you- this will be very helpful!
Hi Steve. Thank you for a very informative video. Very helpful to a new wood turner such as myself. The grinder you are using seems to be very fast. I was always taught slow was better for sharpening due to loosing the temper in the steel, but, I had never even heard of the CBN grinding wheels. Does this make a difference? I am more than a little confused. I am on the cusp of purchasing a grinder and wheels any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thank you once again.
Very usefull info😀👍🛩️
Thank you 👍
helpful tips thanks from Brazil sir
I have seen a few turners recommend a 180 grit for shaping and 600 grit for finishing. Are there any benefits or downfalls to either? Thanks for the video!
If you used the 180 grit for that first part of shaping you would take 2 or 3 times longer to get the initial shape. Personally, polishing to 600 grit won't make a lot of difference. Many different opinions on that.
Very helpful Steve and much appreciated!
thank u Steve. great video.
Outstanding tutorial.
Can I use my tormek to accomplish this?
Does the gouge get hot?
Excellent Video!
I'm sold on the CBN wheels too.
Baldor grinder? I presume that's your preferred brand of grinder! Nice set up and great video. thank you!
Great video! At what speed is the grinder turning, and what is the grit of the CBN wheels?
I'd like to know also
When sharpening with a CBN wheel, does the tool heat up? I didn't see him dip the tool in water like I see with the stone wheels.
Thanks for great video. My hubbie asks if you have any tips about care for the CBN wheel
What is the jig lift kit? Availability?
What is the distance that the jig you used initially sets between the pocket and the wheel of the grinder since that needs to be a constant?
Where did you disapear to Steve? Loved your content and would love to see more.
Thanks Steve! most helpful!!
Steve, I am puzzled by your multiple passes on the fine stone. If not trying to shape but just sharpen the edge. Usually, one pass is enough for me to remove the red marker from the tool and the bevel is evenly ground with the fine wheel degree of smoothness. No 80 grit marks left. Am I missing something?
Hi, are you talking about the the final finish of the tool? (Around 16:30) If so, you are right that normally it takes just a single pass if the tool is not new (meaning still requires shaping) At 16:24 I mention "If the tool is not new, this would be done in a single pass" which is what I believe you mean, and you are correct. Since the tool in this video is being shaped for the first time, I need to spend a few more passes getting a convex shape to the side grind, which is not easy to see until the end. For future sharpenings, it should only take a single pass or two, as long as the setup is identical on the next sharpening. I hope I understood your question correctly
Thanks Steve. I'm getting ready to do this. JimE
Good job, now I’ve got to get the jig setup. Question; Can I use my 6” grinder?
Yes, but the angle profiles will be different because of the smaller radius of the 6".
Great video, but I'm coming across a bit of a problem. After a few sharpenings I start to get the wing tips near the tip coming back. Am I doing something wrong?
I have a tormek sys can I do this on that?
I used the swept back grind for a lot of years, but switched to the 40/40. I like that a lot better and I really never figured out why the swept back wing was of any advantage.
Hi Lyndal, the 40/40 grind has a swept back grind, although it is sharpened with a straight sweep. not a convex sweep. The swept back is useful for shear scraping and that can be done with a 40/40 configuration or something steeper like a 50 or 60 degree grind
Steve,
On your Phenolic Blocks for height, can you tell me the thickness you are using and also the angle of the cuts (block) for the tool arm? Are they 45' and did you cut them on a bandsaw? Thanks..... Great Videos......... Jim
Great video very helpful can you tell me if you can get them grinding jigs in the UK if so can you give me the link
Thank you
Pete
I am new to sharpening turning tools. I have constructed my turning shop and now sharpening my bowl gauges I bought on Ebay to the swept back grind. In practice, I have made a mistake or two. Do I grind them back to the standard grind? or what do you recommend Chris? Great vid by the way, thank you.....
can you please give me the measurements of the Don Giega arm system vertical solution, and spacer I am from North Wales and want to attempt make it.
Early in your demo you said something about getting a cove or grove in the tip ooopps ...Now what can I do to correct this mistake ?
Do you ever strop it with polish?
Hi, i think you have a really good demo video. I'm in the uk and make wood sharpening jigs similar to the ones you use. would you mind if I put a link to you on your you tube on my sales page please, regards, Mick chambers.
Very informative, thanks, although I have to say my father was a machinist and he taught me to never put my hands near revolving machinery. That was over 50 years ago and I still cringe when I see people do it.
Thank you very much.
Don’t you have to quench the steel in water periodically as it gets super hot?
Not with the cbn wheels.
Excellent, thanks!
what is your RPM on the grinder
was this a u shaped or v shaped gouge
How do you keep the tool cool? Is it the wheel?
Yes it's a cbn wheel
Don Geiger? Where can I get the grinding modification?
You mentioned the rig that is needed to get the grind but didn't say how to get it. Is it needed. If so, where do I get it ans $$$$??
Gde se mogu nabaviti alati
what makes other gouges so much better and more expensive...just the kind of steel and heat treat process? Aren't most all gouges HSS and heat treated? Even the Harbor freight gouges are HSS steel. Don't know how well they are heat treated if at all though. Would knife making steel be a good choice if one wants to make there own like O1, A2, 3V..etc tool steels?
a lot of the better turning tools are M2 or PM and a bunch are cryogenic. Check out Crown, Ashley Isles and Carter & Sons
Any steel with an AISI-SAE grade of O is an oil-hardened steel designed to be cold-worked, an A grade is also for cold-working but is air-hardened. Only steel with graded with a T or M is considered a high speed steel, they refer to titanium steel alloys and molybdenum steel alloys respectively. When you say 3v I assume you mean CPM 3V, this is a trade name for a crucible steel alloy with properties close to M2 high speed steel. M2 is sort of an entry level hss, it can't really compete with todays molybdenum and cobalt alloys. So out of the three, you could only use CPM 3V for high speed applications and even then you'd get tools no better than the harbor freight stuff.
Blarg, I disagree with the notion that M2 can’t compete wit say M42 or PM steels. It depends on the application and the design of the tool.
I’ve got both M2 and M42 skews for example. They are compatible. I do keep the M42 skew at a slightly steeper angle which makes it better for peeling cuts and harder woods..... but they function comparatively.
I hone my skews after they are ground on a wheel. M2 is much easier to hand hone. Regardless of which steel holds an edge longer, my habit is to hand hone with a CBN card before the tool goes dull anyway.
For spindle work I wouldn’t hesitate to buy a well made M2 tool. For face work involving lots of end grain cutting, that’s where M42 and the PM steels really shine and stand out.
is your depth that you use 2 inches?