Understanding the 40º-40º Grind with Sam Angelo
Вставка
- Опубліковано 25 кві 2020
- In this video Sam compares the 40-40 Grind with a typical bowl gouge grind with swept back wings. He sets up sharpening for the 40-40 grind with the aid of Ron Brown"s set-up block that allows for sharpening using the Wolverine Vari-Grind attachment. Sam shows some nice close-up shots of both tools and ends the video turning on a Box elder bowl using both grinds.
Ron's video on his 40 40 set-up block: • 40/40 Grind For Bowl G...
link to Ron Brown's tools: tinyurl.com/y7sl44xt
Stuart Batty's angle gauge tinyurl.com/y82th3nb
Wolverine Varigrind Jig Amazon, tinyurl.com/yd8ozhxd
Thanks for watching my videos-
Please find my work on the following sites www.wyomingwoodturner.com
ETSY www.etsy.com/shop/wyomingwood...
Send me a comment or question via e-mail: @---- samandcheryle@gmail.com
I am now an authorized Robust lathe dealer. Please contact me if you have any questions. As a bonus for purchasing a Robust lathe through my dealership, I will provide one full day (6 hours) of instruction in my shop in Billings, Mt.
For more information on the Robust Sweet 16 wood lathe, watch my video: Sweet 16 lathe tour tinyurl.com/uylxh72
Scout Lathe Tour…Video from Sam Angelo • Robust Scout lathe Tou...
![ОРБАН приехал к ПУТИНУ и "отчитался" о поездке в Киев 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_0ukDovOWq8/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Sam, Thanks again for another super-useful demo.
All the best!
Sam, your video is very informative! I love a sharp tool, and have wanted to try the 40 40 grind, but hesitated because most people say it had to be done freehand, which does not enable a standard process. I ordered Ron Brown's kit from your link before the video was finished. Thanks for all the work you do to help us become better turners!
Thankyou Sam. The great thing about the 40/40 grind once you have established the profile is the ease and speed of sharpening- it takes seconds and your back turning. Well worth practising, you won't regret it.
I just bought Ron's set-up block. WOW... how easy is that! I can do it now so much simpler. I had ulna nerve surgery about 18 years ago and lost a lot of strength and feeling in my left hand... trying to do that grind on just a platform is just not a good thing. Now... I've got it. Thanks for sharing this set up.
Great Explanation of the 40/40 grind. I’ve adapted this grind for all my bowl gauges as well and I like it better than my other more “typical” grinds. Thanks for sharing! Michael
I just started using the 40/40 grind. I find that it is very useful when roughing getting a bowl from rough sawed to round without beating you up as much as the other grind tool. It removes a lot of material very quickly. I use both grinds now. Thankis for the video.
Sam, I enjoyed your video. Ron Brown's jig works really good. Thanks for the demo.
Hi Sam. Thanks for the great advice. I’ve been struggling to get to grips with the 40 degree grind but your video has really helped. Keep up the good work! Regards, Davie
I purchase the Ron Brown jig a few months but this video really explains how to use it. Thank you
Great instructional video, Sam. I just ordered several items being a new wood turner and a couple of them were the Raptor jigs at 40 and 50 degrees along with the Wolverine and Vari-grind jig. I am very excited gor them to come in this week so I can sharpen my tools. I just finished mounting my Rikon 1hp slow speed grinder to mate to the Wolverine jig.
Really glad I found this video! I just started turning and I'm still trying to figure out how to sharpen my gouge and this video was very helpful. Thanks Sam!
A great explanation! Thanks
Your explanation is always clear and helpful. Thank you! from Japan.
Good teaching lesson...I'm always trying to learn more about all the different grinds!
Thanks Sam, valuable to new and not so new turners
Excellent video Sam. I just saw Ron's video earlier this evening, It was the first I'd seen of his new 40/40 jig. I've never used a 40/40 grind because I'm just simply no good at freehand sharpening gouges. I'll have to get one of these so I can try out the grind. Thanks Sam!
Thanks Sam! Good instruction as usual. I agree with Steve E. Very nice for roughing out. Ed
Very informative and very helpful as I am about to initiate a new bowl gouge.
Thaks for another great video, Sam. Showing the shear cut angle inside the bowl on the 40 40 was an ah ha moment for me. I had heard you can mimic the angle with the 0 setting on the varigrind jib but I think the longer 3" extension really makes a difference. No excuse for not trying out that grind again. I had a 2 day class with Batty when I first started turning but did not stick with his grind.
Thanks, just learning how all the sharply works. I'm almost done with my first bowl.
Thank you for the red mark on your gouge. It's often so difficult to see tool position when looking at a shiny cylinder or flute. The red mark helps a lot.
What a great personality you have.
nice SWAT shirt. thanks for a great video Sam.
Thanks Sam, I was debating with myself whether to invest in Ron Browns jig. I’ll send him an order today!
Great video showing different was to creat and sharpen the 40/40 grind. I’ve been wanting to try the 40/40 grind but my freehand sharpening on and type of gouge, except a roughing gouge, isn’t the most proficient, accurate, or consistent. I really like using the vari-grind and am glad to see that there is a jig to create and sharpen the 40/40 grind with the vari-grind jig. Thanks a lot for sharing.
very good teacher . Excellent job!
You are welcome! Sam
Very good teaching lesson, thanks for sharing.. Stay safe !😀
Very Informative! Thank You.
Great lesson.
Thanks Sam!
I've used both and my take away from my class with Stu Batty was that if used properly (that's kind of a big if) with practice you will have a repeatable grind that is very versatile, repeatable, simplifies and speeds up the your production rate while producing quality cuts. These considerations are required when you your livelihood is dependent on them. Other ways are viable also. It's a trade off in how much effort you want to put into grinding variable angles for specific timbers, changing setups, sanding, tool life, etc. vs learning to do one thing really expertly. There are of course exceptions to any rule.
HI Sam, of all the videos i have watched including Stewart's I looks like the swept back is more adaptable to shear cutting and the 40 40 cut shows no need to shear. Is that what you are finding?
I would like to have seen a comparison of cut with the free hand vs the jig ground 40/40 grind.
Early in February of this year Staurt was in town and put on a demo along with some classes. I went to the demo which was interesting. I had already been using a 40/40 grind but it was nice to see him grind it and use it.
I am now interested in seeing how a jig ground one works. I know at least in turning green wood the 40/40 grind leaves a really nice finish.
Thanks for the video it was interesting.
Gary
Thanks for the vid, Sam! The 40/40 will normally get you about 2/3 of the way down inside a bowl but, due to its angle, can’t make it around the curve at the bottom. You then need to change to a “bottom of the bowl” gouge or even the Ellsworth. Would you consider also doing a video using the 40/40 to do a push cut on the outside of a bowl? Held correctly, that’s where it really shines. The finish will make you fall in love with the gouge. Thanks again, Russ
Thank you for the great advice keep it coming 🙂
Hi Sam. I really enjoy your videos. Just a couple of comments. First, it looks like you set up a 40-50 grind. I set mine up off the side of the tool rest so my look at the side of the gouge is more like a 40-40 Bedan.. It took me 7 years at watching Cindy Drozda's gouge sharpening video to to understand why she sharpened it this way. I had two V gouges that were essentially a pain until I re shaped them 40-40...and got instant results. I never push more than 2-3 lbs on the gouge and I get beautifully shaped and even walls. I use her technique of sharpening the wing, lining the wall of the gouge parallel to the tool rest, and gradually turning to tool as I proceed to the tip. After shaping the other side likewise, I even up the tip. I was amazed how even i ground this (CBN 180 wheel), and find having 40 degrees all the way around the tip cuts with minimal effort. I have a 1 HP Jet 1221, and do overload the moto--in spite of my light touch. when I turn the inside corner and start getting dust, I use an old 5/8 Sorby with a 60 degree English (bottom cutting) grind to get shavings off the long grain of the bowl bottom. I have gone from 6 hr (counting sanding), to 1 hour, 20 minutes on 11" bowls. This pandemic practice, while studying the technique of Stuart Batty, Ashley Harwood, and lefty Jim Mahoney, have transformed my bowl turning. Again, I love all that you teach and look forward to your comments.
Thanks, Sam
Good job on the video. So do you think there is enough of an improvement in the 40/40 cut to switch over to it? Thanks.
Nice video. Would love to see you compare them using the "push cut" on the outside of the bowl.
With more information I now feel like I should try this I just got the jig from ron brown a couple weeks ago and have not used it Thanks
Just from watching this video I too am not convinced that 40-40 is much different from the Irish grind. You mentioned the wing shape difference but in your video it appears to me that the wings do not come into play. It looks to me that only the edge just to the left of center is doing all the cutting. I can see that there might be some significance if you were using the tool for a pull cut on the outside. I wasn't aware of the 40 degree set up jig for the wolverine from Ron Browns. I will have to try that. I have a full Wolverine set up but am considering an upgrade to the Kodiak system from Ron Brown. Thanks for the tips and thank you for sharing. Please stay healthy.
I am a rank amateur turner and I appreciate your explanations of what you are doing at the grinder. Toward the end, when you were turning on the bowl, it was difficult for me to tell which part of the tool was actually doing the cutting. Thanks.
I think I will mention this comment in my next Notes from the Turning Shop video-scheduled out on May 22, 2022 I need to go back and look at this video to see exactly what I was doing with the tool. At this point I'm not sure. Once I enter a cut on a bowl I rotate the tool so it's cutting on the left wing. Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER I'll look for the explanation. Thanks again for the lessons.
I wonder what that grind would be like on spindle turning. I think turning green may be a different cut on that grind. I have not tried it but will with Browns jig.
Good vid,
Lee
Enjoyed Sam. Very informative . Something I may try. Could you please give me more info on your Handle and collet chuck
Great information on how to use my Wolverine jig for a 40 - 40 grind. I’m not that great ant trying to hand grind my gouges. My results would look worse than yours. Your little demonstration and explanation of your results makes sense. I’ve been watching some Ashley Harwood videos and she uses the 40 - 40 grind on all her turnings, both bowl and spindle. It’s something I’d like to try.
She's also been mentored/ taught by SB
Dane Chandler yes she was and she still thinks it’s the best grind after all the experience she’s had since then.
Sam, I don't think the 40 degree Brown accessory with the wolverine jig is technically the same as the Batty 40-40 grind. The brown accessory appears to just be a 40 degree wolverine grind with an additional axes of movement relative to the freehand. With freehand, using the traditional tool rest plate with the grinder, the tool is swept in a constant plane parallel with the face if the grinder tool rest. With the Brown accessory as the tool is swept side to side the handle does not remain in a in a plane as it is swept side to side (which is the reason it could possibly hit the back stop of the wolverine jig). Also, with the 40 degree wolverine set up the sweep back can still be made at ill defined lengths depending on how far the jig is layer over.
Nice video Sam, interested in the handle you have at the end of the video, the one that looks like it has a chuck end....thx
Sam, do have two grades of CBN on your grinder. In the video the CBN on the right looked much darker, and you seemed to be using it to reshape your tool. The CBN you earlier in the video explained it was a 180 grit wheel. I’m trying to figure out which would be my best move as I already have a 180, should I go finer or courser for my next wheel?
I have a 180 & 600 CBN wheel. One of the best choices made. The 180 is plenty rigid for reshaping sand the 600 makes such a refined edge that lasts longer. The 600 also eliminates the final hone typically done on the skew. At least it does for me.
@@WildWashWoodturning that is actually what I was thinking, could I use the 600 on my bench chisels, or is the metal too soft?
@@stevetibbetts3232 yes you can, but do follow it up with HSS. I was told this straight from the "man" who specializes in CBN equip. I have used the 180 to reshape my bench chisels (they are a quality set) and then I create a micro-bevel using my diamond stone [300/1000]. No issues at all, and extremely sharp (the kind of sharpness you never knew about, simply amazing).
Good explanation of the 40/40 grind. I tried free hand grinding it and gave up. Went back to my swept back grind. I have considered buying Ron’s jig.
Btw what is the tool handle attachment that you use? Looks easy to use
Thanks
The tool handle attachment seen around 11:25 in to the video is a Robust collet connector. I have a video on it. ua-cam.com/video/J1zK2mUWFD4/v-deo.html I love it. Sam
So basically if you already own the wolverine setup, there is only two settings to work out, the protrusion of the cradle and the length of protrusion of the gouge. Once you have worked out how far the arm needs to come out to give you the 40 degree grind, it’s dead easy to replicate. In my humble opinion Ron Browns setup tool is an expense you could avoid. I use different lengths of hollow wooden tube over the box section of the wolverine arm to set up for my favourite grinds. As for setting the 3” tool protrusion, that’s easy to set up a bench block for that too. It’s not rocket science guys is it. Happy turning all.
Figuring the length(s) is when algebra comes in: A^2 + B^2 = C^2. (pythagorean theorem). I have to agree with you and by no means disrespecting all that Mr. Brown has done with his jig setup. Again, I don't see any benefit it provides over you typical bowl grind. At 40° I expect it to be a bit easier doing the entry cut as the tool handle doesn't need t/b extended as much (for those who have a higher grind [mine is at 50°] and there is less material to cut considering the nose grind has a a smaller surface to wood contact.
Dane Chandler , From what I saw when Sam tries to dish out the bottom of that bowl, the 40/40 grind has serious restrictions, I would still be reaching for a bottom feeder grind. Maybe the 40/40 grind is more useful on the outside of the bowl. I am over 60 now and have been turning for more years than I care to remember. I have seen trends come and go over time. Sure, the tool plays it part, but it’s more about the hands holding the tool don’t you think ? If something works, why change it ?. Happy turning, bye for now.
Stuart Batty has been turning for 41 years and so I have to take what he says seriously and after seeing his video with 40 40 grinds, it certainly works.
However, I have seen professional woodturners getting a superb finish straight from swept back wings. There is also a learning curve in sharpening the 40 40.
For me the jury js out, if I can get a finish with a minimum if sanding, why go through the hassle of changing to 40 40.
The main thing I see with the 40/40 is that the tip of the tool and the wings are flat and not rounded or curved the wings work like a skew removing wast material and the main cut is with the nose of the tool I find that this grind removes material really fast and leaves a really good finish but if you have the grid right you will struggle at the bottom of the bowl and you will need a different gouge for the transition and the bottom of the inside if you are right handed you hardly need your left hand apart from starting the cut
What grind would you say is best for turning that corner?
If you move your 40 deg. Lines out 1/2 inch each way the tool won’t cover the lines when you roll the tool out. This will make it easier to keep the angles exact.
Sam, as a new turner - I was introduced to the Kodiak sharpening system, can you tell me if the 40/40 grind be achieved with that system?
Who makes the handle of your chisel? Did you make the handle then add the "chuck". It seems easy to use - no hex screws etc. Any reccomendations on any manufacturer that makes an easy release for a doubled ended chisel would be great.
I loved the video - I too took a Stuart Batty class and liked the 40/40 grind - but have difficulty replicating it by free handing the grind. Thanks!
Annette, I made the handle. It has a collet made by Robust tools. It is great for changing tool steel in one handle. I am a dealer and can drop ship this item to you. Here is a link to a video on this handle. ua-cam.com/video/J1zK2mUWFD4/v-deo.html Email me at samandcheryle@gmail.com and I can give you details. Sam
Hi, great video, how do you set the nose angle to re-grind? Mine gouge is 55 degrees out at new. what angle is the grinder table set at? Thanks
Most of my spindle and bowl gouge nose angles are set at 40º. I set the table with a Stuart Batty angle tool. I learned sharpening gouges mainly from Stuart Batty and Mike Mahoney. Both advocated a 40º nose angle. I use a oneway jig mostly to sharpen. But I am continuing to learn how to sharpen and use the 40-40 grind..... Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER Many thanks for your speedy reply. Unfortunately the Stuart Batty angle tool is not available here in the uk. However, since writing I am thinking I will cut out some wooden angles (40, 45, & 55) and shape the to my grinder my grinder wheel. This will let me set the platform with a digital angle setter. Thanks again for taking the time to reply.
Do you use a scraper for the floor of the bowl?
Any idea what the equivalent tormek set up would be anyone?
What bowl gouge is that with the tooless removable handle?
The tool I found is at 14 minutes and 30 seconds in to the video. This is a Robust collet nut on a hand made handle. ua-cam.com/video/J1zK2mUWFD4/v-deo.html This is a link to a video I did on the Robust collet nut. Very cool. You can buy them with 4 collet sizes. Sam
What brand of bowl gauge is that? I’m wanting to get a gauge with removable handle.
The gouge I was sharpening in this video is a Oneway 5/8" gouge. It has a cutting edge on each end and requires a handle that allows you to remove the steel. Here is a link to a Robust collet system which works very well.ua-cam.com/video/J1zK2mUWFD4/v-deo.html Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER , Thank you very kindly.
Does anyone know if this will work, or can be adapted, to the Kodiak system from WoodTurner's Wonder? Thanks.
If those two grinds only get you to the bottom of the curve, how do you get that 90° cut across the bottom?
Are you saying that the wall and bottom of the bowl form a 90º angle? If so, you may simply NOT be able to reach it with a gouge. You may need a scraper. If my assumption is not on point, let me know. Thanks Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER you were showing that you could only go just so far down the inside wall of the bowl. I was wondering if you can only do the sides with the gouge, how do you shape the bottom?
All these grinds confuse me so much as a beginner.... right now i'm using a 55 degree slightly swept back but i aint got a clue why or how i ended up liking that grind lol
If you are using it and not having issues with a rough surface or creating a surface that requires sanding starting at 80/100 grit, your angle is suiting you well.
Thanks, I can see this might be a topic for a video. Thanks Sam
Sam, I don't believe Stuart "back cuts" on the inside of a bowl. David Ellsworth does for sure but he uses a different grind as we know. When I took David's class that was actually somewhat scary to me. I believe Stuart's cut is a nice clean entry (because of the straight wings, as opposed to concave shape) then once the gouge has entered, open the tool and make the cut on the RIGHT side of the tool, not the left side (which is what I believe most call a "back cut"). Stuart will tell you also, as you know, that the 40/40 can only go so far into a bowl, but that's no different then a swept back wing too. Bevel angle for the bottom (about) 1/3 of the bowl depends on the shape of the bowl, say anything from 50-70°. I have mine at 60, but I haven't made many "non-standard"-ish bowls. I'm not sure how to measure the cutting angle on the wings. Platform grinding should keep them equal to the tip, but jig grinding could make them different. I don't know that Ron's tool is any different then other jig grinding. Many folks like to shear scrape the outside of a bowl after push cutting. My experience is that the 40/40 grind with straight wings is not the right tool for that. That could just be me. I pick up a more convex shaped gouge to do that. I have made a straight edged scraper like Mike Mahoney has used (V shaped), but I've not really tried to use it.
hi. where to buy such a turning tool
You mean a 5/8" bowl gouge? I would start with Craft Supply USA or Packard Woodworks. But there are many sources: Trent Bosch, Doug Thompson, D-way tools, Carter and sons tools......Sam
I'm confused, the angle you show on the platform is 50° not 40°. 40°is shallower than 45°. Your layout shows it steeper. I tried your layout and the tool needs to be pulled and can't be pushed. When I set it for 40° the difference was night and day.
Good freehand platform demonstration. Unfortunately this is not a 40/40 grind. This is a 40 degree bevel with a 50 degree wing. To create the 40 degree wings, the black lines on the platform should have been set from the face of the wheel downwards (or top edge of the platform) and not from the center of the platform upwards, remembering that 90 degrees is a combination of 40 & 50 degrees. This is an easy error to make but it changes how the gouge interacts with the wood.
Stuart
Thanks for the feedback.....Ironic that the video is titled "Understanding the 40-40" haha I will admit I still struggle with this grind as it is done freehand. I have watched you (as well as Ashley on one of her DVD's) sharpening the 40-40º But I am still learning. Miss seeing you in person Best Regards Sam Angelo
Would someone please explain the advantage of the 40/40 grind to a normal Irish grind. It’s all I hear about, but freehand sharpening, for me, looks like a gigantic pain in the butt.
Yeah, I watched the SB video on it along with others; including Sam's. I don't see the advantage of the grind over my 50° by 1.75" tool ext setup. I peel about 3/8" off when roughing going from a pull cut to a push cut around the sides of my bowl blanks (priarily mesquite, Chilean). I don't see it.
Stuart Batty has been turning for 41 years and so I have to take what he says seriously and after seeing his video with 40 40 grinds, it certainly works.
However, I have seen professional woodturners getting a superb finish, straight from swept back wings. There is also a learning curve in sharpening the 40 40.
For me the jury js out, if I can get a finish with a minimum if sanding, why go through the hassle of changing to 40 40.
@@icespeckledhens , indeed. Obviously how I feel as well.
You made a mistake when putting 40° marks on your platform. The 40:40 numbers refer to the bevel angle and wing angle. But the angle you need to swing the gouge axis through is not 40° each way. It is about 48 or 49°. This is almost the same as measuring 40° down from the horizontal edge of the platform, but you measure from the vertical edge. Curiously, you made another UA-cam video in 2014 with the correct marks on the platform. Stuart Batty has a video showing him using his gauge to mark 40° on his platform. Unfortunately, he doesn't show clearly that he's measuring 40° from the horizontal so it's not surprising that you might get it wrong.
In short: the angle you need to swing the gouge through on each side is about 50°, not 40°.
But that aside, I really enjoy your videos, so please keep up the good work.
i'm pretty sure the 40-degree angle on your platform is backwards. the 40-degree angle is from parallel with the wheel (top edge of the platform) and not perpendicular to the wheel (center of the platform) so what you are grinding seems to be a 40-50 grind.
Thanks, I will check that out. Sam
Yes I did go back and check my angles, you are correct-good eye. Thanks Sam
You like everyone else forgets the main thing in sharpening a gouge, your caught up in 40 40 grind like everyone else and you have to use these devices to get the proper angle, you gag at a nat and swallow a camel and you complicate something that is simple. It takes time using a grinder to make smooth motion, what novices need is basic grinder instructions,but you never see that. And I ain't no novice. Piss poor video that says in order to have a perfect grind you have to have these attachments. Your grind on one gouge was terrible using your wolverine jig, wood turning should be fun but you like everyone else try to make it so technical beyond belief.
Kenneth, Thanks for taking the time to comment on this video. It appears the information was not useful for you. I did visit your channel and really found no content to speak of. I am always curious as to the experience of those who leave more critical comments on my channel. You said you "ain't no novice." Well neither am I. I have been turning since 1990. I feel I have a good understanding of tools and grinds. I would love to see....some of your work-your tool grinds-and any videos you have made. I respect the comments I receive on my UA-cam channel and I deal with them honestly. However you look at this video, and what you feel are failures to my presentation in this video, are certainly within your right to feel that way. You might look over some of the other comments and the impressions of others who saw this video. I do read every one. I will wait for you to send me photos of your work, photos of your own tool grinds and your videos. I am certain I can learn something. Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER I'm sorry I went off on you, your presentation was great. My only concern is that beginners will think this the only grind that will work. Wood turning is more than angles, the sharpness of the tool is the main thing, it's not just you it's everyone that pressies the angle of the tool over the sharpness of the tool and never state how to make it sharp. I never measure the angle but my tool is always sharp, I could grind my tool to 35 to 45 and it will cut well, because you can adjust the tool rest to adjust for the angle. One thing you and everyone else that post on You tube don't realize that sharpness is the key angle within reason matters less as you have to learn the cut, you have to feel the cut. I don't make videos and therefore I can't show you my turnings, mostly bowls, simple and useful. I have no doubt your a better woodturner than me. I like to keep it simple. Love your work and when you figure out what I'm talking about sharpness text me. Sorry I didn't mean to insult you, your a gentleman.
@@kennethcaine3402 You did not insult me. Sharpening a tool with a 40-40 grind or a swept back grind using the Wolverine is not necessarily simple. But angles etc are important. Yes "sharp" is also critical but there is a BIG difference between a 35º and a 45º angle on a tool. "Sharp" does not make a tool work-the angle plays a major role in presentation and what you are working on (spindle? cross grain?). Part of this video was to show Ron Brown's 40-40 sharpening jig I used it to compare it with a swept back grind. Just sharpening a a tool, which can be simple, does not tell the story. Woodturning is not always simple. You used the phrase "make it sharp" Do you sharpen the cutting edge? Or while grinding the bevel-do you make the edge sharp? This whole video was about the bevel and bevel angle, which translate into making the edge sharp. Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER thanks for responding, I have no doubt In your ability, I just would like to meet you and share what I'm talking about. I am still convinced that the sharpness of the tool is paramount to the tool being at a specific angle. Like talking to you and I know we have more in common than you may think. I'm 68 years old and I want to help beginners, and make it as simple as possible. I don't do videos I ain't that savy in that sort of thing. You still haven't answered my secret to sharpness.