Also available as a Trick Flate from TD-DISTRIBUTING a small business. They provide more kit options if you want and you support a small business. They're about the same price and cheaper than most other options.
@@Wallymakesstuff I think maybe you can post a link but users can't or something. I have links in my vid descriptions. I just seen another vid with the channel owner that posted links in the comments.
I'm running 2 of these pumps on my onboard air system. Still can't beat the price of the compressors. I used 2 to help split the workload as well as increase the air up time even more! Also have a 40 gallon propane tank converted to air tank connecting both compressors. I'm running a 115 to 145 psi pressure switch and 150psi check valve. I have ran just about every air tool on the market now over the past 5 years. The system still works flawlessly and outperforms everyone's systems I've come across yet. Even the famous dual pump ARB kits that run close to $1000 or more. All together I have maybe $300 to $350 into my system. That's including fittings, check valves and pressure switch!
INSTRUCTIONS LIED, no presser switch to turn motor off. But that aside, used compresser for first time today and loved it. Aired up two tractor tires and was amazed with how fast it was. Your mods were spot on and basic. It needs a presser switch and some kind of air delivery that is quick and you can monitor the presser. I also noticed the power cable were a little warm. You covered at all. I think if you mounted a small tank somewhere you could run an impact. Great video!
Yeah I’m pretty sure they’re referring to the pressure switch as the blowoff in the nozzle. It is impressively fast and glad you got value from my video! I think if you switch to 3/8” hoses and valves, it’ll be even faster but will probably need a tank at that point since most after hoses will be rigid and won’t flex on startup like those that came with it.
They all require modification to some degree. Even the arb (which though they come with a kit to do it). This particular compressor is about 2x faster at airing up than the Arb that cost 5x more.
Simple approach that should work well. One improvement would be a large fuse or breaker on the battery end of the power leads. There is a lot of opportunity for that coiled up jumper cable to rub and short on something while driving. Alternatively, another "anderson style" quick connect close to the battery.
That 1/8-27 tap is a tapered pipe tap for 1/8" pipe, you don't run the tap all the way in , it's tapered and rule of thumb is you run tap in until you can turn fitting by hand 3 turns before needing a wrench to tighten
The factory unit has a pressure relief switch built into the inline gauge which you deleted, I'm not sure if I just missed it, but where did you put it on yours as it's a very important safety item required by UL and NFPA? Thanks
The motor, not supposed to start under head pressure thing, is real.... Though I built something like this years ago, and I used an "unloader" type replacement air compressor switch, same as the one from my Craftsman 6 HP comp in my shop. They cost like $35.00 bucks, and the contacts, are 220 vac 20 amp rated. Which will hand your rapid 12 vac, high amp rapid start stop cycling you'll see hear, when not using a reservoir tank. Which can be a future upgrade, my friend 😜!!!! And fusing the power, at the battery, is a "must" for fire safety as mentioned by others here .. Accidentally burning your truck to the ground, would be more than a bummer 😕...Keep at it brother !!!
Both great ideas. I am definitely going to run a QD at the terminal power. I’ll look into that switch you’re talking about. I wonder why these things done come with that in the first place?
If you aren't supposed to start under head pressure then how do you ever inflate a tire? For example, if you are running some tires on your F-350 that need 75psi, you have to stop the compressor to check the pressure, then turn the compressor back on to finish filling the tire. And you might stop and start the compressor 5-10 times per tire.
I think the workaround for starting under pressure with these cheaper non-tanked units is that their hose is extremely pliable, which in theory should give the motor a bit more give when starting up. Otherwise they’d have to come with a tank to avoid ongoing warranty issues. This is why I kept the original hose. Should’ve mentioned that in the video.
interesting since the owners manual on my new NAPA compress says it has a built-in pressure switch which will shut off the compressor when the trigger on the inflator is released. The compressor will restart once the trigger is depressed again. -- I guess it pays to "read the manual" :) I'll have to get a hose with a trigger on it and try.
That’s so odd! I didn’t read the manual lmao, but I promise you, mine didn’t shut off at a certain psi out of the box. It had some lame inline air bypass in the hose that basically had it constantly releasing air beyond a certain pressure and the pump kept running. Maybe they updated it?
The manual is wrong. With a trigger nozzle the pressure guage goes over 120 psi and didn't stop. I shut it off and will install the pressure switch and look for some type of unloader valve.
I tried, there’s not enough room anywhere. Maybe if I replaced the air box with an exposed cone air filter, but then I’d be getting hot air intake. The arb might work though. Honestly, under the seat works great and I like that it’s easily removable. Probably will last longer too due to not being exposed to weather.
You tapped your pressure switch into the thermal cutoff power connection, everyone else is cutting the wire to the power switch and splicing the pressure switch into that. I like your way better. Did it work for final setup, or did you have to move it?
I noticed that too. The maxitracs are easy to tap into the switch. The new black napas don’t have the same connector to the switch as the maxitrac does. I’m wiring mine like this one as well. Hope I’m not screwing something up
On the cables, watch out for CCA for conductor type. That's junk but it's cheap, stick with 100% copper wire. 4ga should be about the minimum wiring size. If you're running to the rear of vehicle it should be more like 2ga
Yeah for sure. CCA shouldn’t even be legal. Completely agree. From what I understand, these are industrial copper at 99.3% and do the job for short term use. OFC is about 99.99% depending on the type. That’s what I run for all electrical items that are in constant use.
The two was as described the video from my harbor freight metric set. But I’m pretty sure it’s the same as a standard schrader valve tap like this 0.305-32 Thread Tap RH HSS High Speed Steel 8V1-32 (.305x32) Tap Valve Thread 0.305-32 Replacement for Schrader Tire Valve Stem Handle Tool 0.305x32 a.co/d/chBGeTN The pressure switch I used: Air Pressure Switch 85-100 PSI Pressure Switch 1/8"-27 NPT DC 24V 12V Pressure Switch Air Compressor Pressure Switch 100PSI Pressure Switch DC Pressur www.amazon.com/dp/B07XZ415DS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_uPCVS3FDzOTIx The rest of it is easily sourced at lowes or Home Depot
I’m confused. Why would you need so much cable lead if you have the long air lines? Isn’t it one or the other that’s needed? That’s a lot of cable just hanging around in your engine compartment
Out of stock at warehouse so couldn't order one, finally tracked down a napa store that had only one in stocks. Cut me a deal at $135. Sitting in truck reading instructions and it says it has a built in pressure switch. Can this be right?
My experience with the “pressure switch” is an inline blowoff valve that limits pressure quite a bit. They might have changed it, but idk… when I did my mod, it eliminated that as it was located in the end of the hose
Motor not ment to start under high pressure..pulling trigger bleeds alot off quick...adding tank inline will make it work hard..most air comp bleed this "head psi" off when shuts off..
Also available as a Trick Flate from TD-DISTRIBUTING a small business. They provide more kit options if you want and you support a small business. They're about the same price and cheaper than most other options.
That is awesome, could you provide a link? Pinning this comment!
My comments seem to keep getting deleted. Not sure if links are allowed, most are removed but sometimes they stay
Interesting… UA-cam seems to have a mind of its own sometimes. I’ll try to find it and post in the description. If it’s wrong, let me know
@@Wallymakesstuff I think maybe you can post a link but users can't or something. I have links in my vid descriptions. I just seen another vid with the channel owner that posted links in the comments.
Yeah that makes sense. I bet you’re right
I'm running 2 of these pumps on my onboard air system. Still can't beat the price of the compressors. I used 2 to help split the workload as well as increase the air up time even more! Also have a 40 gallon propane tank converted to air tank connecting both compressors. I'm running a 115 to 145 psi pressure switch and 150psi check valve. I have ran just about every air tool on the market now over the past 5 years. The system still works flawlessly and outperforms everyone's systems I've come across yet. Even the famous dual pump ARB kits that run close to $1000 or more. All together I have maybe $300 to $350 into my system. That's including fittings, check valves and pressure switch!
Man that is awesome
That's awesome bro
INSTRUCTIONS LIED, no presser switch to turn motor off. But that aside, used compresser for first time today and loved it. Aired up two tractor tires and was amazed with how fast it was. Your mods were spot on and basic. It needs a presser switch and some kind of air delivery that is quick and you can monitor the presser. I also noticed the power cable were a little warm. You covered at all. I think if you mounted a small tank somewhere you could run an impact. Great video!
Yeah I’m pretty sure they’re referring to the pressure switch as the blowoff in the nozzle. It is impressively fast and glad you got value from my video! I think if you switch to 3/8” hoses and valves, it’ll be even faster but will probably need a tank at that point since most after hoses will be rigid and won’t flex on startup like those that came with it.
This pump was tough to get. Thanks for the video on this!
Glad you were able to get one! I’m pretty sure there’s others sold online that are the same thing with a different brand name.
They all require modification to some degree. Even the arb (which though they come with a kit to do it). This particular compressor is about 2x faster at airing up than the Arb that cost 5x more.
Simple approach that should work well.
One improvement would be a large fuse or breaker on the battery end of the power leads.
There is a lot of opportunity for that coiled up jumper cable to rub and short on something while driving.
Alternatively, another "anderson style" quick connect close to the battery.
That’s a great idea. Thanks for the thoughts, I will put that on my bucket list of upgrades.
That 1/8-27 tap is a tapered pipe tap for 1/8" pipe, you don't run the tap all the way in , it's tapered and rule of thumb is you run tap in until you can turn fitting by hand 3 turns before needing a wrench to tighten
Great info, thanks for sharing!
Holy hell, napa has them back in stock after over a year of being out of stock.
Guess I got lucky… soon as I found out about it I ordered and it arrived a couple days later
The price has seemed to gone up from 130 to 172 dollars now.
The factory unit has a pressure relief switch built into the inline gauge which you deleted, I'm not sure if I just missed it, but where did you put it on yours as it's a very important safety item required by UL and NFPA? Thanks
I threw it in the trash. Haven’t had any issues running the inline electronic pressure switch in the main housing to cut pressure.
what about air tanks? it helps out a lot having your pump set up to fill a 3-5 gallon supply tank.
That’s a great idea if you have the room.
Nice work, for future work I suggest using grease on your drill bit and tap, that will hold on to the majority of the shavings.
Brilliant idea thank you.
The motor, not supposed to start under head pressure thing, is real.... Though I built something like this years ago, and I used an "unloader" type replacement air compressor switch, same as the one from my Craftsman 6 HP comp in my shop. They cost like $35.00 bucks, and the contacts, are 220 vac 20 amp rated. Which will hand your rapid 12 vac, high amp rapid start stop cycling you'll see hear, when not using a reservoir tank. Which can be a future upgrade, my friend 😜!!!! And fusing the power, at the battery, is a "must" for fire safety as mentioned by others here .. Accidentally burning your truck to the ground, would be more than a bummer 😕...Keep at it brother !!!
Both great ideas. I am definitely going to run a QD at the terminal power. I’ll look into that switch you’re talking about. I wonder why these things done come with that in the first place?
If you aren't supposed to start under head pressure then how do you ever inflate a tire? For example, if you are running some tires on your F-350 that need 75psi, you have to stop the compressor to check the pressure, then turn the compressor back on to finish filling the tire. And you might stop and start the compressor 5-10 times per tire.
I think the workaround for starting under pressure with these cheaper non-tanked units is that their hose is extremely pliable, which in theory should give the motor a bit more give when starting up. Otherwise they’d have to come with a tank to avoid ongoing warranty issues. This is why I kept the original hose. Should’ve mentioned that in the video.
interesting since the owners manual on my new NAPA compress says it has a built-in pressure switch which will shut off the compressor when the trigger on the inflator is released. The compressor will restart once the trigger is depressed again. -- I guess it pays to "read the manual" :) I'll have to get a hose with a trigger on it and try.
That’s so odd! I didn’t read the manual lmao, but I promise you, mine didn’t shut off at a certain psi out of the box. It had some lame inline air bypass in the hose that basically had it constantly releasing air beyond a certain pressure and the pump kept running. Maybe they updated it?
@@Wallymakesstuff parts are all arriving by the weekend, should have an update after that.
Awesome, keep us posted 👍
The manual is wrong. With a trigger nozzle the pressure guage goes over 120 psi and didn't stop. I shut it off and will install the pressure switch and look for some type of unloader valve.
Unloader valve seems like a good idea. Keep us posted. 👍
Why did you go this route versus just buying one off the shelf meant for this purpose?
Perhaps i missed it, but what range was the pressure sensor??
I think I used a 70-110psi
I wonder where you could mount it in the engine bay…. Is there even space for it in your truck?
I tried, there’s not enough room anywhere. Maybe if I replaced the air box with an exposed cone air filter, but then I’d be getting hot air intake. The arb might work though. Honestly, under the seat works great and I like that it’s easily removable. Probably will last longer too due to not being exposed to weather.
This is on my list now! Where did you get the pressure switch? Whats the specs and model number? Thanks
I should really get affiliate links lol 😂
a.co/d/930eKvK
Specs are 85-100psi (on/off)
You tapped your pressure switch into the thermal cutoff power connection, everyone else is cutting the wire to the power switch and splicing the pressure switch into that.
I like your way better. Did it work for final setup, or did you have to move it?
Interesting, I didn’t consider that other idea. It works great as is.
I noticed that too. The maxitracs are easy to tap into the switch.
The new black napas don’t have the same connector to the switch as the maxitrac does.
I’m wiring mine like this one as well. Hope I’m not screwing something up
Hope it works out for you!
On the cables, watch out for CCA for conductor type. That's junk but it's cheap, stick with 100% copper wire. 4ga should be about the minimum wiring size. If you're running to the rear of vehicle it should be more like 2ga
Yeah for sure. CCA shouldn’t even be legal. Completely agree. From what I understand, these are industrial copper at 99.3% and do the job for short term use. OFC is about 99.99% depending on the type. That’s what I run for all electrical items that are in constant use.
Now you need an air tank
Would you include a parts list particularly the TAP you used.
The two was as described the video from my harbor freight metric set. But I’m pretty sure it’s the same as a standard schrader valve tap like this
0.305-32 Thread Tap RH HSS High Speed Steel 8V1-32 (.305x32) Tap Valve Thread 0.305-32 Replacement for Schrader Tire Valve Stem Handle Tool 0.305x32 a.co/d/chBGeTN
The pressure switch I used:
Air Pressure Switch 85-100 PSI Pressure Switch 1/8"-27 NPT DC 24V 12V Pressure Switch Air Compressor Pressure Switch 100PSI Pressure Switch DC Pressur www.amazon.com/dp/B07XZ415DS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_uPCVS3FDzOTIx
The rest of it is easily sourced at lowes or Home Depot
Thanks Wally, a very thorough list.
I’m confused. Why would you need so much cable lead if you have the long air lines? Isn’t it one or the other that’s needed? That’s a lot of cable just hanging around in your engine compartment
If you want to keep your compressor under the seat and not have to move it out to the engine compartment, that’s what the long power lines are for.
Out of stock at warehouse so couldn't order one, finally tracked down a napa store that had only one in stocks. Cut me a deal at $135. Sitting in truck reading instructions and it says it has a built in pressure switch. Can this be right?
My experience with the “pressure switch” is an inline blowoff valve that limits pressure quite a bit. They might have changed it, but idk… when I did my mod, it eliminated that as it was located in the end of the hose
No, they definitely don't have a standard pressure switch. It's very cheap insurance.
I have the same one. Doing this tomorrow
You’re going to love it!
@@Wallymakesstuff ua-cam.com/video/CvmlMvzdjts/v-deo.html
Can I add the pressure switch to a tank and run it that way?
I’m pretty sure you could, if you tap the tank line in where I tapped the pressure switch in.
Motor not ment to start under high pressure..pulling trigger bleeds alot off quick...adding tank inline will make it work hard..most air comp bleed this "head psi" off when shuts off..
Thanks for the tip!