Best Off-road Air Compressor MODS.
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Today we are going to modify our Maxi trac Off-road air compressor! These NAPA Maxi trac compressors are fast and cheap but they really need help. With a little bit of elbow grease and some cheap parts from Harbor Freight I think we can make giant improvements. By the way, I have found that a lot of these same ideas could be used on the Smitty Built 2781 so if you have another type of tire filler/on board air compressor, these ideas might be useful!
If you liked this one and you want to see a part two, let me know in the comments 👍. I definitely plan on continuing to modify this compressor but if it's not a topic you are interested in then I won't turn it into a video.
Thanks for watching!
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#overland #offroad #4x4
Definitely need a second episode. I was super impressed with my compressor in stock configuration, but now I’m going to have to step up my game.
Nice project. If you added power connectors like the ones on winches, the cables could be used as booster cables and to power the compressor. This way perhaps the compressor could fit in an ammo can. Good job!
Yes! Like the I believe their called “Anderson Plugs” used on Tow Trucks for their booster cables. Tow trucks never have to pop the hood they just plug in the cables… and those plugs I know for a fact can be ordered on Amazon.
I had the same idea, having the connectors also allows the cables and compressor to be stored separately and makes untangling cables easier.
I’ve almost done away w/ my booster cables, got one of those small (but powerful) boost packs, ABSOLUTELY LOVE THAT THING!! I tested it out of box by totally disconnecting my battery and jumping my truck straight off the pack several times… works great, & have used it several times! Keep my cables as a contingency just incase.
But I plan on getting the plugs and wiring to install one on both the front & back of my truck for easy access, and they can also be used for hooking up accessories when needed.
I have them on the front and rear of my rig (anderson connectors) i use them for my winch, jumper cables, and compressor, very handy
@@MinimaDomum I have the same set-up, but only at the rear. The inflation hose reaches all tyres on the Cruzer, and the 4 tyres on the caravan (but not the spare - I can check that when it's fitted.) I have an air line ✈ fitting on the compressor, but I'm really impressed with that simple idea for a manifold. That's next. 🙃
Great video! I appreciate your desire to tweak and improve EVERYTHING, not just stick to one area of focus
part 2 of the Frankenstein pump please
Napa was continually out of stock until I noticed a different Napa store that had a link to have it shipped to this store. So I did and picked it up a day later. So glad I found out that little option. So when on their site scroll to different stores and see if there’s the option to have it delivered to that store.
I did some of those things to mine when I got mine. Went up to 1/4” npt from the 1/8” that was on there originally. Secondly added a pressure regulator. Reason is the compressor can output 150, while normal air tanks are rated for 100. So regulator is set below 100 for tank safety. Ditched the spring clamps for the battery connection in favor of adding 2 gauge ran up to the front, through a 200 amp continuous load relay, which is switched through my SPod. It works, and fills itself and my tank from dead flat to 100psi in 1 minute. Single ARB used to take 3, plus complicated wiring.
I use vaccuum grease for these types of applications, the low vapor pressure keeps it from volatalizing when your pump gets hot and gunking up system
Great suggestion thank you!
@@DirtLifestyle arb are sht, expensive crap... i have one of those comps, here in aus, called thumper.black.. 300lt. its hooked up to my f250, s/duty, air bags, & 2 fire extinguishers. with a cut off valve, say 120-180.o/c. pumps up my 35,s in 5 mins. i still think the power tank is best. will get one soon. trail recon, had 2 arb,s junk..[ i anodize sht blue, & it sells real fast.]. 62 f100 4x4,352 fe.. 75 cut swb highboy 4w disc,5 sp.. 82 bronc sas.. 02 s/duty, 4.2tdi, brazilian. &, a 73 chall. r/t. oh,,& 2 cats.. you want a laugh,,watch inskip beach 4x4.. might of said before...im 63,,wait till you......????????..............forget things....................
@@DirtLifestyle those CE, air switches, i been thru 5 of them, i switched them from the comp. to the air tank. 1 still blew, lasted 4 mins. the air line hole upgrade is good idea. im still using the airbag lines to the outlet. 6mm o/d. great vid.. i allways think of an 8cfm , 240 v, comp, hooked to an inverter. or,,110, to you..
@@DirtLifestyle do a vid on hooking it to 2. 5 gal tanks. oh,forgot,, you only have a toyota,,no room...nice paint job..lol...ausie sarcasm..ish..
Greetings from Reno, Nevada.
Headed to Amazon. I overland in a 2014 E-250.
I’m in Fernley and haven’t been able to find one of these compressors 🙄 Built 2008 JKU 😎
Nice upgrades! I would consider adding a computer fan sized accordingly, to help cool that compressor in the ammo can, if you run it inside the can. Love the videos, keep it up, you keep me motivated
I was thinking the same. But he did say it was for storage.
Love the video I'm interested in doing the jumper cable and relay was wondering if you had a diagram on where the wires go to the relay end cables hard to see on video thanks for sharing
Can you do a video on how you wired that solenoid to the compressor. That is a great idea. I like the idea of getting rid of the board just not completely sure on the wiring.
Did you ever figure out how the solenoid was wired?
Awesome. Want to see it in the ammo can.
Part 2 for sure. I want to have a tank on mine so I can use it for air horns... keep up the good work sir.
When I was researching rebuilding my "Titan" branded compressor (physically identical to the larger smittybilt unit), smittybilt owners were recommending SuperLube with PTFE for the cylinder.
Yes a Part 2 of this mod would be appreciated! I LOVE your Fab vids! Those interest me the MOST… I’m not as skilled as you, especially since I don’t have the shop space or tools that you have so that limits me. But I can do some intermediate level fab work.
Clear silicone brake grease, works for a lot of things. I plan similar things in hard mounting a smitty 5.6, with 35's the smaller one isnt doing it anymore, and thats with a 3 gallon tank.
Ok so i did some digging, the “mystery pcb” is the thermal protect. You adding bigger gauge wire and removing that is certainly going to smoke those motors and you’re running the risk of fire. Always size wires appropriately.
A comment from a person that has had 2 of these. One of the botton bearings on both versions that I have had have self destructed. Letting go and destroying the crank case on both. If I bought another I don't think it would be too hard to replace the bearing with quality versions.
Those appear to be teflon rings, indicating this is an oil-less compressor and typical for smaller models - the addition of a lubricant can actually reduce performance in this type of compressor, as well as attract/collect debris that accelerates wear. The lubricant you found on one side makes this a mystery worth investigating, if they are teflon then you can expect improved performance from a thorough cleaning
Great mod, you won't look back, I did this about 1 year ago increase fitting to 1/4 + update hoses and cable. Mine is permanently mounted behind back seats with a 12v boat blower blowing across it to keep it running cool. Then made my own twin tyre inflare deflation kit and it's quicker than a ARB DUEL 😀
You scratched my plumbing itch Nate!
You covered a lot of the vent holes that would help with heat
So we I've watched this 3 times now. Once by myself and twice with the boys. You blown their minds removing the computer board and operating it with the switch and solenoid. Part 2 should definitely include a white board of the wiring. Still trying to get the younger one to equivocate a relay to a solenoid.
I like it, great job. I think I would use a Anderson connector for the jumper cables to compressor. I think I would use Synthetic grease I use on Poly bushings.
They have a similar compressor out there called Tozalazz it got good ratings. I just ordered one from Amazon. It has a switch on it so it a step up pretty fast looks customizable to me, I was thinking about customizing. My new one started looking for videos, and sure enough found you. Lol
I'm literally copying this, absolutely brilliant
Great video Nate. This mods format is great and I think it has great potential for many other areas (how to do coilovers on the cheap, hydraulic brake mods, hydraulic steering mods etc.)
Are you planning on doing a review on how the smittybilt ones in the land rover are holding up?? You did some similar mods to those.
Toss a pressure regulator and gauge in front of your air hose quick connect. This allows you to set your target pressure on the regulator, connect the hose to your tire and just let it run until the pressure switch cuts power. No need to babysit it or keep checking pressures as you go.
Hello I can't find one
Since you're using a manifold that stays under pressure, I'd suggest installing a check valve into the supply line as the big compressors have. This will remove the constant pressure on the pistons at startup.
The startup pressure is less of an issue with this type of motor, and with such a short output pipe the check valve will do very little for startup pressure anyway.
@@DonziGT230 there is usually a bleeder valve to clear the compressed air in the line that accompanies that check valve.
@@xjinit Yes, it's part of the pressure switch used on 'standard' compressors, and it'll do very little for this setup.
@@DonziGT230 can you elaborate?
@@xjinit The pipe is very short/small volume and this compressor moves a large volume of air so it'll pressurize very quickly therefore be of very little benefit. The pipe on a home compressor is typically much longer and the compressors are lower volume so it'll take several strokes to pressurize the pipe. Also, this type of motor isn't effected by startup torque like the motors used in home compressors which have a very hard time with startup. One of those without the pressure release often won't be able to get up to speed, it'll try 'till it burns up unless it has an overload breaker to protect it. I don't know of any 12v compressor that has a pressure relief and they all do fine, even those without a check valve.
Put a switch in-line with the pressure relay so you don’t have sparks when you connect it.
Why are you concerned with spark's?
@@wesman7837 Because it’s burning the battery terminal and clamps every time?
Great project and improvements you've made to that system! Not sure if it will get enough air flow in the ammo can unless you drill some holes in the can?
He’s not using the ammo can.
You wouldn't use the compressor while the ammo can is closed, for one it would suck itself into a vacuum, but you wouldn't want to compromise the can's seal when not in use so you don't have water or mud damage.
I'd be lubricating the internals with rubber grease. I would think that would be the safest all round.
A good amount of water is compressed out of the air even with these small air compressors. My current project is adding water separators to my twin compressors so I am not continuously pumping water into my tires when airing up. It might be something worth researching for you.
Well as always there was nothing greater than an idea that's time has come I suggest trying electrolytic grease it is petroleum based and it's designed to prevents salt corrosion of electrical components and lights on vehicles. And electric connections on those big big trucks that use the light bulbs warm that's why they have the grease in there to protect the connections. Oh yes a follow up video will be nice.
Would you mind showing your electrical schematic for replacing the solid state circuit board?
I will use PM600 "military grease", I've been finding it pretty useful on the truck, as it has good temperature characteristics as a dynamic lubricant, and is also designated as a liquid o-ring.
Great work. I have a very similar compressor that I was going to do similar things to. I like the starter solenoid idea (and I happen to have a new one lying around somewhere that I could use). I am going to run 175A cable (with Anderson plugs) through a circuit breaker from my battery to the trunk compartment of my SUV and mount the compressor there. I want a skinny air tank to fit into the quarter panel of my SUV, so I am going to combine three Soda Stream cylinders (they have a crazy high pressure rating) to be my tank and plumb them to the compressor, probably with a steel braided hose. My quick connect socket will be available from the inner wall of the trunk compartment, just inside the tailgate. Thanks for the video.
Have u considered other vessels like a small fire extinguisher, aircon filter /dryer, or an old gas bottle maybe, you might comes across something the right fit for ur corner idea from ur local dump shop
@@evil17 Yes, I have some old fire extinguishers I could use, but the cylinders mentioned above are a better fit in the narrow cavity I have.
1st: your a fabricator, make your own “ammo can” that will fit properly.
2nd: I would really like to see a detailed mod video for the ARB twin compressor (onboard). Tanks manifolds etc., I know you’ve touched on it briefly before…
In my Overland build (I’m still saving/shopping for my dream truck (‘01-‘06 GMC SIERRA 1500 Ext Cab Z71)), I had thoughts of when I fab my bumpers to turn at least one/both of them into an air tank for that purpose.
I think the best mod for the ARB Twin is the mod I did, I sold it for over 3X of what I paid for the MaxiTrac that replaced it.
I would like to see part 2
could you do another vid maybe going in to detail on how you wired up the relay? I'm trying to figure out how it's wired and how to incorporate an on/off switch
Awesome stuff! Should be really handy if you pair that with an air tank.
Brilliant video thank you 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I have the single cylinder version of this. Had to replace the relay, reseal all connections, and replace one of the exhaust port orings. Pretty sure the piston ring is teflon so I lubed it with triflow teflon grease.
- 120 amp circuit breaker may be a good idea. Will also function as a switch so you don't have sparks when hooking up the battery clamps.
- There are tons of these on alibaba/aliexpress. Shipping will be slower but the price is much lower.
This is nice but my question is how does the onboard air in the DIsco work, did it meet your expectations?
If I could find one of these I would buy it is a second.
look at "Performance Tool M685" or "Titan 19378" inline blow guns... I think this is brilliant and everyone I know has one now.
You can by these now with pressure switches from factory. My experience with a few of these is the brushes or commutator in the motor are what fails
Love these videos! It’s great to see alternative DIY videos. Not everyone has $500+ to spend on an ARB.
Anderson plugs - so the cable could also be used as batt start leads etc
Verry Nice Bro I Just Got a Single Cylinder Model , Im gonna Try some of your Tips Cheers
Be interesting to see a before and after. Maybe time inflating a tyre with it stock one, then with you modded one.
Can you post a pick of your wiring in the relay to the pressure switch?
Yes part 2 please.
Napa opted not to buy any more of these but lots of other brands sell the same unit (with different branding). Look for 10.6cfm compressor there are lots of sellers. Thor's lighting, morrflate, etc. You'll pay more but you are paying for somebody to do the work of small scale importing vs someone like napa who can import batches for cheaper.
That explains why NAPA always shows “out of stock” 🙄🤬🤬🤬
Including the compressor price and everything you did to it... what was the overall cost? And after all the mods.... what's the longest you could run it for before overheating?
These pumps are out of stock everywhere I’ve looked and doesn’t sound like they’ll be back any time soon.
Cool project! I'm interested in more upgrades for sure!
I want to see a part 2. Awesome video
Probably could make some way to mount it under a seat front or back seat with a air tank to run tools
Def need a part 2 😎
Never use petroleum-based products- they degrade the seals. Silicone grease is the way to go as others have noted. Mod looks great!
use comprssor lube.
If petroleum products degrade seals, we wouldn't put petrolatum, or hydraulic fluid, or various oils, or fuel, on every single rubber packing, seal, gasket and o-ring on a helicopter. In 40 years as a professional mechanic, ranging from heavy equipment to countless aircraft, I can count on one hand the times where a non-petroleum based lubricant is called for by a manufacturer or technical specifications.
@@jethro9341 Depends on what the seal is made out of and since there's no money in using seals that resist oil in a part that has no oil, companies dont do it.
I respectfully disagree. I used to be an industrial air compressor mechanic. I've worked on just about every style of compressor out there and units up to 150HP that were the size of pickup trucks. We used petroleum based lubricants on almost all seals, unless otherwise noted on the seal manufacturer's recommendations, which was practically never.
@@russellv6234 Your standard run of the mill seals, packings, o-rings, are fine with petroleum based products. The extra cost to a manufacturer would be a specialty seal that doesn't jive with petroleum products.
Forget the compressor. I want to know what is in the crate behind you. 😊
Dude I do like this but what about doing a video on turning a sanden AC compressor into a air pump. I’m gonna upgrade my AC on my square body suburban which will move my AC compressor to the left side of the engine. Well I’m thinking I’ll go to the junk yard get a good sanden and mount it where my old axial used to be. Convert it to a compressor for a tank and have a simple switch to activate it when I need it
Ohh trust me... you will need part two lol Even people who don't own one(me) will want to see more what you did to that compressor can easily be applied to any compressor which I find very useful. Kind of makes me want to kick myself in the back for tossing out the old Hobo Freight compressor I had wanted to turn more life out of it since it only lasted me two trips and that's airing for only from 20PSI on 33s... I could of done HF dirty and just bought another one and return the old one but I ain't bad of a person. I'll take it as a lesson learned and only stick to their hand tools.. and free items haha
Great video. I bought one a few months back and thought it needed a few upgrades too. These will definitely help me out. I was also thinking an Anderson connector on the end of the new power cables. Then add an Anderson lead to the truck and one to the short ‘left over’ end of the cables with the clamps. Better/easier connection to your rig and still the option to “clamp on” to someone else’s battery/rig.
That is what I've done with mine. It seats in the back of my Montero permanently connected, but I can easily take it out and use the clamps. 3 Andersen plugs and some wire is what you need (careful with the gauge and long distance)
Did you think about using an Andersen connector instead of keeping that long cable attached at all times? Seems like being able to disconnect that cable would help with storage
Also, sorry if I missed it but do you have a fuse somewhere in there? It would be a bummer to have a big uncontrolled electrical fire if something in the motor decided to let go
Love the video! I’m really excited to see part 2!
How did you wire in the relay and pressure switch?
Yes on a Part 2!
A multi-tire inflator/defaltor is stupid easy and can be done for super cheap. A $5 3-way splitter with a cheap gauge and connectors is all you really need for a 2-tire setup. The hose is the most expensive part of the whole thing. For a 4-tire setup Amazon has a 7 port manifold that is perfect for $7. Minus hose, I'm in my 4-tire inflator/defaltor for less than $30.
Word on the street is that Napa discontinued the compressor. It's out there under multiple different brand names, but for 2-4x the cost. Might be able to get some in from a wholesaler and fill the void that Napa is leaving. Have a Dirt Lifestyle branded compressor out there kicking ARB's ass all over the place. 😆
watch out they are all recalled from catching on fire.... not sold out...
1/8 is less air volume but more Pressure Were 1/4 Inch is more air volume and less static pressure should definitely flow more air with the 1/4 fittings and line
Sucks you can't find the Orange Maxi Trax compressor no more there now branded napa well from the researching I have done
I would love to see a digital electronic pressure switch that you could set the pressure on to auto shut off at desired pressure
Suprised you didn't unbolt the Clamps on one end from the jumper cable instead of the cutting and crimping
Relay wire instructions please
After you have tested & refined it, I would like you to build one for me, to be used as a permanently mounted one, in the cavity of the rear quater panel in my 80 Series Landcruiser. But I would then need it shipped to Australia 😁
How have you wired up the compressor with the cut of switch im liking the idea but it's all confusing cheers
It would have been great to see metrics of before and after the rebuild.
- 15 to 40psi tire inflation time difference, etc.
Great tips for any mass produced air compressor! 1. Wiring. 2. Port upgrades
I was just trying to piece together what I’m needing for this. Plus I have Multiple rigs and can’t build a compressor in each one. So this is awesome for a good compressor set up to move from vehicle to vehicle for different trips. Also go in my construction truck to blow myself off before heading home to work.
Yes please part 2. Comparison in STOCK VS UPGRADE.
1.)Time for pumping up 4 tyres.
2.)Temperatures of the compressor during operation both cold and hot day on the field.
3.)Wear and Tear report (3-6-9-12 months).
Your awesome. Your practical and making small adjustment to affordable products and enhancing it to last longer and functional and a lot cheaper to buy and build and probably a lot easier to fix and simple especially with taking out the circuit.
Keep up the great work and keep it coming.
Thanks for this amazing video..
Could you please show us the solenoid diagram with the pressure switch??😊
I think this is a brilliant idea. I've never considered any improvements to my compressor (different type), but the issues you fixed an yours are most likely common to all lower budget compact compressors. Could you post a wiring diagram for the switch and relay? Thanks!
Does that budget compressor still work? My big issue would be the duty cycle, filling 4 tires up with no rest for the compressor...
Hey Nate, that compressor looks almost identical to the adventure kings thumper max here in Australia, not sure if that information is of any help to you or not but it could be worth looking into.
Very helpful. Never realized could do mods like this & you plan it so well. Also great job explaining why you're modding
♪ Woo oh oh a hoo ah, Woo oh a ha whooo ♪
Quick question. The small
Red wire of the motor is for the thermal. Where do you connect that too? Thanks
The compressor has the 2 thick cables coming out (power/ground) and a small red wire. What is this small red wire? I noticed in some of your shots it's been bolted to ground
Great Video! I would've loved to see a before and after test for temperatures and CFM output.
Why didn’t you switch the ground instead of the 12 volt lead through the relay, like the original wiring was designed?
I know it's been a while since you made this video, but I just got one of these, different brand, and was wondering if you can provide a schematic for the electrical mods and a little more info?
What CFM is that compressor? I like your mods. I never thought of doing anything like that to mine, but now that the warranty is over I may do something.
I have a portable Smitty-Bilt 5.6 CFM that I've mounted permanently in my YJ using a similar solenoid and a regular 110 volt adjustable pressure switch and hooked up to a home made air tank/bull bar on my bumper.
With the costs of the upgrades added to the original purchase price what is the cost “ as modified” compared to purchasing a compressor at the actual price? Thanks.
I would not recommend using this with a tank I had a 5 gallon tank with mine and over time (a few weeks) it went boom and the shaft between the two pistons snapped at the time I only had a 70- 100 psi switch
Great job on the upgrades, thanks for the ideas. Let’s see part 2 for sure. Have fun camping. Thanks for sharing and stay safe. Ken
Find a carpenter with a burnt up hotdog compressor. You can reuse the tanks and they fit inside most truck frame rails out of sight.
I’d love to see a full on board air install with it and a small tank. I’ve been collecting parts for and waiting for my baby Viair to die to do a permanent install. But kind of settling on the smittybilt do to availability and space constraints.
I love it brother ‼️💪
Your the man ‼️
So smart 💪
Please do a part 2 on THIS...
I can't wait to see the final product bro 💪‼️
Hi, great video. How much did it cost to complete these improvements? Would it be better to pay a little extra for a vehicle-mounted compressor?
If you do the ammo can (which i think is a good idea), you should add some computer fans to help cool the compressor off. Looks great nate!
Would spraying a little bit of silicone spray lube through the air intake help lubricate the piston seals?
I’m thinking same concept like lubing an air tool by adding a couple drops of oil every now and then.
Would the silicone spray cause an issue with the compressor?