BMW E92 N54 17T Hybrid Turbo Budget Build Update: More Oil Change Nightmares
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- BMW E92 N54 17T Hybrid Turbo Budget Build Update: More Oil Change Nightmares
So its time to start getting the car ready for euro day. The first job in hand is to rename it to Gary......... Gary Glitter, you can probably work out where this is going...... ha. Ahhh well. She's still an absolute weapon!
Check out the full playlist on this car - bit.ly/2xc0EoA
Budget Build Parts List So Far
Turbos through eBay
RHD UK/Australia - ebay.to/2PKAgId
LHD USA/Europe - ebay.to/3hN9awQ
Turbos through Amazon
17T RHD / LHD Listing amzn.to/3efnoDQ
19T LHD amzn.to/2VZuV3i. (these are slightly bigger then mine, i wish i got these)
19T RHD amzn.to/2ZXg0Ib (these are slightly bigger then mine, i wish i got these)
2 Inch Inlets - ebay.to/33Qi9ZJ
Gecko Coilovers - ebay.to/3jrUIeI
Rocker Cover - amzn.to/33caOBd , ebay.to/2TIRQyZ
-10an Line & Fittings Kit - ebay.to/31GFsCB
Trans Cooler - ebay.to/3gOkbxy
Elder Coils - ebay.to/38Izq5R
Billet PCV Valve - ebay.to/3aS7NJg
China Spec Walbro 460 F90000267 (use at own risk, but that is whats in this car currently - update the second pump in the stage 3 setup, failed straight away) - amzn.to/33fqYZ4
LCI Tail Lights - ebay.to/34KQc3L
12mm Bolt On Spacers - ebay.to/2XRRKah
E92 Custom Floor Mats - ebay.to/2CkgEaX
Smoked Side Flashers - ebay.to/2XPyVEk
Clear Side Flashes - ebay.to/2PMkMUi
My port injection was secondhand. But i may switch to a PI manifold shortly.
#17Thybrids #teamN54 #n54turbo
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I just skipped cleetus for this
Holy shit!!! That’s a pretty big deal, thanks man. Cleet’s a legend.
Well shit
Metal doesn't crumble. Analysis would lay that to rest.
I’d imagine all that stuff is from when you done the valves mate, grinding paste n the such! That grinding paste gets everywhere!
I have a M135I BMW 2013 with N55. It has done 76000 km. I have been using Nulon 0-40 PAO synthetic oil. It’s really really good.
Boost looks normal. You're not hitting the target up top either because the turbos are maxed out ot the wastegates aren't closing enough due to a limitation in the tune.
You should try going flash only. The JB4 boost control looks poor in that log (overshoots target at spool) and the logging in MHD is way better.
Boost didn't look normal which is why i mentioned it at the start of the video. As you can see at the end of the video i found a loose hose clamp. But yeah that was probably the JB4 that left the clamp loose hahaha
@@ZeroTo60Tube The overshoot on spool won't be a result of the hose clamp. When using the DME boost control you would increase the d factor of the PID to prevent that, maybe the JB4 has the ability to adjust for that. A good way to check for boost leaks is to use the WGDC value and compare to old logs. If the WGDC is significantly higher at the same boost levels as before that would indicate a leak, just be aware that as ambient temps and IATs climb you would also expect to see more WGDC.
Do you recommend 5w40? I thought everyone said 5w30 Castrol edge is recommended but then I am in Melbourne so maybe it's different?
I miss driving myne now hopefully it fixed soon ☹ , 320d for the moment
My 335i is still stock, still watching, biting my nails.
Awwww man, i wish i could exercise your levels of restraint, just a few mods go such a long way. :P
Just go FBO, it's the sweet spot...
Single turbo and don't look back 😎
Cut a section out of the filter media (say half) and put it in a vice and press most of the oil out of it. Then look at the filter in the sun or another strong source of light and if there is metal in the filter it will stand out pretty well.
Be careful. Rods could bend with all the low end torque
25NM for both top filter and bottom plug
I am pretty sure Mann-Hummel is the OEM for the oil filter. I have been using the HU 816x. Doesn't the new filter come with two orings? One for the cap and another for the tip? Maybe the orings on the "new" engine were never changed.
Do you think the timing correction could be due to warmer weather? What is the IAT compared to previous logs?
I think you are right about the OE manufacturer on the filter. This one did come with o-rings and also the new washer for the sump plug. TBH because i do such frequent changes myself, i normally just re-use the old orings and thats what i did when i fitted the engine to the car. I should have probably changed them then, just bad habbits and not thinking.
The correction changes could definitely be temp related. I have it now holding 25psi with the clamps fixed so will try and do some more logs today.
I'm not hitting boost target as the rpms increase and my tuner said that it's done like that on purpose so it doesn't overboost. Not sure if that's true or not. Some maps the boost psi and boost target is closer than other maps I have though.
I think flash only cars its much harder to hit boost target and thats why it seems a lot of people struggle. With a JB4 you should absolutely be on target.
Dont forget you had a hole in the oil cooler right?
Yes the parts car did have a damaged oil cooler and also rocker cover.
Not bad, not bad. Good memory, could beat reason hey.
Get yourself a cheap smoke tester for boost leaks. I have one and use it on my E46 330d (had a boost leaks after hybrid turbo install), x5 35d (had a boost leak from a shitty aftermarket hose) and M4 (I was a cretin hadn't installed my charge pipes properly)recently used it to diagnose a vacuum issue on my brothers highly tuned e55 amg
I'd steer clear of penrite oil in your BMW. Was warned by a highly reputable performance shop in Queensland that tunes high power 335s. Was recommended to use castrol edge supercar 10w-60. Love the content as per usual, thanks guys👌✌
Yeah i had heard of people running the 10w60, so i am sure its fine. I just dont understand enough about bearing tolerances and oil thickness to make that call on my own yet. Will probably do some more research.
@@ZeroTo60Tube give simply tuning a call, they specialise in these cars.
You can email me your logs (excel preferred) and I will take a look. MSD80/81 will pull timing off if your HPFP drops below 1800 and trims max positive the next step is to pull a little timing. Need to see fuel pressures and trims both low and high, in that log your high side is low but if you have PI your mixture is fine but the dme might still pull timing.
Yes, finally! Really missed the N54 content. Your car reminds me so much of my previous 580whp E90 N54 every time I drove it lol.
With you on the over analysis. My little M47 is exactly the same, looks shiny, not magnetic and crumbles under pressure. Has been for the last 3 oil changes. Oil analysis will tell....
My e92 had similar shavings in the oil when i did the first oil change, disintegrated just like yours when i messed with them. Seemed to clear up on following changes, on #3 now and theres virtually no more. if you figure out what it is id love to know!
my n52 was the same
You may want to check your boost solenoids , swap them for other ones or test the vacuum at the solenoids while at idle should be around 17inches. If you don't have a split boot
Love the car. I would bet it's some carbon, E85 and port injection is a great valve/piston head cleaner.
Just drain the oil and chuck the filter. Nothing looks good under the magnifying glass. Be aware but don’t look for problems.
I agree. Also, whenever you do anything to the motors, cleaning valves, rod bearings, you should always do a couple of heat cycles then drain / fill without looking at the oil or filter.
Stuff is always flushing through that will clear up after 1 or 2 oil changes. Did the rod bearings on our 335 N54 and the first oil change after a couple of heat cycles flushed stuff out.
She ready for Sunday big day coming don't baby her give everything she got i wanna see more glider in that filter
Question for you andrew... got my e90 335i manual and apart for intake and backboxes its all stock and im frightened if i stage1/2 it will just finish the clutch and cause other parts to fail not that its been exactly fault free already lol, what your thoughts its hardly slow as it is and had a 300bhp focus st before it, is it a big difference, sorry for 100s of questions buddy 👍🏴
A clutch that is in good condition should hold stage 1 or 2 absolutely fine. However that doesn't mean yours will. Depending on driving style you can definitely hurt the clutch faster with the tune. If money is tight, the smart thing to do is leave it stock. But the cost of a tune is crazy good value for the performance increase. However you need to be ready to keep up with maintenance.
Let's hope them bits in the filter are nothing to worry about 🤞🏻
Freight out of the states is better then freight from Sydney. 3 days from US to aus inc 24hr delay to clear customs cause my bill went to junk mail. Another 3 days from Sydney to bris. 2 days from bris to sunny coast.
Ordered something from Melbourne on eBay. Posted next day. 6 business days to get to sunny coast.
Normally the case. I think it’s more issues with stock getting to them in the states. Annoying but could always be worse I guess.
Good video, I hope you find where your boost is going
Hopefully just carbon...!
Hehe.. sun visor dancing in the back seat. Sounds nice mate.
Could you please compare the car to smth like m2/m3/m4? I think the vids are not showing us the real power of the car :D
Well hopefully have some little runs with a few of those at euro day this sunday.
love camera angle @ 4:00. Anyways do you think PCV valve and oil catchcan made a difference on the old engine? It was so gummed up
Thanks man, yes i think they do make a difference, well especially if you have an older PCV thats not quite working like it should
Hopefully you can fix the timing corrections with plugs and boost leak. Looking forward to another update!
I hope so too!
Are you using 5w-40 oil and not having any lifter knock? Once accidentally used 5w-40 and thought my engine was done so god damn loud knock from valvetrain, but with 10w-60 no problem. Actually the dealer also recommends to use 10w-60 to make turbos last longer atleast here where I live
5w-40 is what that oil manufacturer (penrite) recommend for the N54s. I think castrol even recommend a 5w-30. But i have hear of people running these on 10w-60 with no issues. At the end of the day as long as your oil pressure isnt too high, you're just gonna be putting a little more oil between the crank and the bearings.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Really? Everyone here in scandinavia recommends using 10w-60. Once had a discussion with very experienced bmw mechanic who said that these engines run so hot that 40 weight oil just turns to water and especially on n54 the turbos are so bad that oil just seeps through the seals and make your car blue puffing dragon. But if it is working with you why change something that works.
Ive recently been thinking about selling my n54 for an e60 m5 with the s85 engine but watching these videos really makes me reconsider. Love the tune-ability of these cars and those boost noises these engines make. Plus i don’t really want to learn how to do rod bearings just yet. Keep up the great content!
Ohhhh thats a tough one. I think the N54 is a much better daily and for the odd roll race the N54 just dominates. But the S85 in the M5 is very very special. The feeling you get when you are giving an e60 a bit of a spanking is really special. Why not both? :P
@@ZeroTo60Tube I’d absolutely love both but my wife and garage say i can only have one...for now. And you’re right, i can’t really daily the m5 or m6 like the n54 not only due to reliability concerns but i also need my x drive for these Colorado winters. I guess I’ll just have to keep squeezing more power out of the n54. Next mod is adding port injection through a custom intake manifold and using jb4 to control.
Single Turbo comming soon😁
So you didnt do oil flush/change from previous engine swap? Didnt last engine have smashed rocker cover which might be why you had so much glitter.
no no no, i did flush and put fresh oil in when i fitted this motor to my car. But i havent changed it since that first one. Jeez i am tight, but not that tight haha
@@ZeroTo60Tube haha. When I watched the video that's what it sounded like and I thought geeze, that Penrite can be had on special for like $35 😂
Had you checked your old engines oil at all and no metal there? Cause apparently it is common with n54 and no one knows where the metal comes from.
Possibly cam ledges but those tiny spots can't produce that much glitter in my mind.
I didnt look at it as closely as i did this one now. Thats a good point tho, this may be normal. I'm probably being a little optimistic there i know.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thats the point. Most people don't check the oil under light carefully to notice. I have read in forums from mechanics that they see glitter in oil filter area all the time
5w40 is a great viscosity for a new engine running stock power. High boost, two turbos, the Queensland heat and 120k on the engine would have me running at least an Xw50 and preferably something with lots of zinc and boron.
I definitely don’t have enough of an understand of bearing clearances and exactly what the oil is doing to confidently change. Have you got any further recommendations? Keen to find a better option if there is on.
I know the M1 down under IS a PAO syn as it’s pour point is like -60?! This is the 5w-50. Or just get some Penrite 5w50.
@@ZeroTo60Tube a few things to consider. The warm up period is the time from start to operating temp. In Europe in winter it will take longer for the engine to warm up because the oil starts from a lower starting point and the engine wants to stay cool because it rejects heat faster to the cold ambient air. Now start it somewhere where it’s 50 degrees c, your already only 20 away from operating temp so it will get there in no time and once there the remote oil cooler will be trying to keep temps limited. So cold start is dependent on location as an oils viscosity is affected by temp, even when it is sitting on the shelf at repco. So a thin 5w30 can be thicker than a 10w50 depending on the climate where you’re starting the car. This is why comparing oils across the world is pointless IMO. So now the car has warmed up and at operating temp, the 50 will be thicker than the 30 but the engine doesn’t care because it’s still much much thinner than they were at cold start. The drag from the thick oil is higher so fuel economy suffers but we’re talking 1% but that’s important if you’re Bmw. The thicker oil is not a lot thicker in the bearings, like a few cst but it has more chance of keeping moving parts separated. This also provides some space for dirt particles to pass through without contact. It also provides some extra margin when temps go up. An oem knows the typical operating styles of its products and matches oil to suit the typical user. You hardly fall into the category of a typical user as you have an old engine in a hot climate developing twice the power it left the factory with. The pods filters too let in more dirt than Bmw intended. Try some thicker oil and see what happens.
So many variables.
That is the car that made me take the chance on 17T EBay turbos.
Good to hear dude! Make sure all your maintenance is up to date and make sure you check your battery terminals. My car was running for god knows how long with out a proper working water pump.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Yeah, it’s a pretty comprehensive project since I did maintenance items first. I’m in the process of putting everything back together now. Thanks for the tip on the terminals.
BMW Rod bearings on these thing are quite fragile from what I have seen - i am a bit jaded at the moment but damn...
See now i thought the N series engines were good for bearings...... Any updates on yours yet? Both mine and daves fingers are crossed for you
@@ZeroTo60Tube Not yet no. They were going to pull pan and have a look. There is something about doing oil filter gaskets in these things that seem to cause rod bearings problem very soon after. I am hoping that the crank journal is OK. It was idling when it stopped.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Well boys the crossed fingers have worked! N55 has picked up number 1 rod bearing however, the crank is OK which is a big weight off and the first piece of luck (yeh, BMW luck right its only a couple of rod bearings) experienced since purchasing this BMW.. We will now replace all rod bearings and oil cooler thermostat as well - it is the only remaining item from my old engine that picked up the #4 rod bearing. We will not be using OEM bearings this time around - because, well, too many spun bearings....
After chatting with mechanic we suspect air an lock in oiling system. The oil cooler had been removed and flushed to remove any metal. The suspicion is that when thermostat opened it filled the cooler with oil causing momentary starvation to no1 rod - who knows - it only picked up one. Pigging was used to fill the engine and it was cranked a couple of time to build up oil pressure before the car was started. We will be using plenty of lube on new bearings and keeping a close watch on things when we start this fragile engine... I am also so over the buy a real car jokes from my Ford driving friends... I hope revenge will be sweet if we can ever get it running again :)
@@auszman Dude we missed this reply, with all the rush to get ready for euro day!! So glad its not too catastrophic. Im genuinely interested in this, i can't believe it to be honest. I need to do some more learning on how the N55 oil system works.
Keep up the good work!! Greetings from Finland
Hey, thanks!
Same thing here. veli poika
What oil are you using
Penrite HPR5.
What app you use?
Its the JB4 app, you do need a JB4 to use it tho.
Cant wait for a race on euro day 👍
Hell yeah!!!
Oh also I remember your car from last year! Totally lost to you in my Megane haha
@@ZeroTo60Tube it didn't go to bad back then with the stock turbos.. shoud be close we have the same set up.. im still working on the new tune..
Plumbers tape on the sump plug is a must.
Not a bad idea at all. I have yet to have one leak tho, but will keep that in mind for sure.
Not neccessary, just replace the copper washer.
The copper washer does the sealing. The threads are straight and not tapered so plumbers tape really isn't suited to this application. Straight threads need an oring or crush washer to seal. A new washer should come with the oil filter.
What phone holder is that?
Its a schosce brand. It was ok until i fitted the hybrids.... the magnet isnt quite strong enough ha
@@ZeroTo60Tube look at the Vader Solutions phone holder. They make them for the E9x but not E82. Reason why I haven't purchased one.
First
Well done sir!
@@ZeroTo60Tube how much for an Insta follow, cs_m3_
I just recently swapped my engine as well. I did do the rod bearings before I put it in just to be safe. For some reason there is metal shavings in my oil as well. Especially in my first oil change. My oil is also pretty filthy. Like super black. I installed a new oil cooler and everything was changed new. I also did prime the engine and turbos on first start up.
Damn it. Week for it. As one of the guys said, the oil cooler had a hole, so maybe ahit from that and maybe (long reach here) remnants from valve grinding paste?
Ohhhh definitely not paste left behind..... made sure of that. I still have nightmares about cleaning that head. But it could just be old crap in the engine getting flushed out. I cleaned the head, sump, but still many little spots for crap to build up. It obviously wasn’t well maintained judging but the condition of the valves
@@ZeroTo60Tube i thought it a long shot being as fastidious as you are with cleanliness 😉. Good point in regards to previous maintenance. You would have had a heart attack if you saw the condition of mine when I got her, man....