There's a group of us on Watts app, mostly UK but world wide too you may be interested in joining, about 250 of us, there's around 35 of us in UK with China 17t turbos, couple lads have pi meth setups too, plenty of info if you're interested, Ken from wedge is a member too. Only a couple of us have had issues with 17ts, couple others had smoke issue which is resolved by an alteration to pcv, they're solid turbos
I actually did a video on this topic. Because its a very tough thing to answer simply. They are good BUT....... ua-cam.com/video/MoUuuOAJ6Yk/v-deo.html
Please have them rebalanced to show if they were good coming from China, many in whatsapp group claim they are not correctly balanced. It could save you a lot of work and money to do this before they go in. :D
Good review, however, I wouldn’t post HP figures in your title unless you actually got those #’s. The vendor doesn’t post that figure, and many other guys with similar setups have posted significantly different results. Eg VehicularDIY posted 537hp @ 24psi on E40, most others are between 500-550. And for reference a full send build on stock turbos can do 500hp @ 23psi (though not recommended). Now that your setup is installed it would be responsible to do a dyno and talk real numbers.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Yeah don’t get me wrong those things have value, but they depend on other factors like car weight, auto or manual trans, and the driver. I think the dyno chart shows more information because it shows the torque curve which a single trap speed or time measure hides. Anyways, the titles says 700HP and I’m saying everyone else’s dynos 775RS’s around 525hp.
@@snivesz32 I totally get where you are coming from, i was the same when i was younger. To make you feel better about the title. A Lamborghini Aventador has over 700hp at the crank and weighs about 100kgs less than my car. Its also running through a single clutch transmission not a power sucking torque converter. And yet my car is faster than a Aventador on a 100-200 (dragy validated 6.13 seconds, check out this for real world 100-200 times by the best in the business AutotopNL bit.ly/2PSakev). Its pretty safe to say these turbos produce over 700hp at the crank. I dont know why the Vehicular DIY car is so low on power. If those Helix's work it should be well in to the 600whp mark, unless that dyno reads particularly low, which confirms my point about dynos.......... I wonder why DIY hasnt done any dragy runs? I saw Vehicle Virals N54 was also slow as on the dragy runs...... maybe these youtubers are more youtubers than car builders........ hehe
@@ZeroTo60Tube The draggy number is impressive for sure, and I want to believe it’s real since I may go this route. Another data point though, Alex the russian did 581whp@27psi and I think 618whp@31psi on E50 right before his engine catastrophically disassembled itself. So I guess if you are talking crank hp then it’s reasonable if you are running that much boost. On your draggy run what boost and fuel were you on, i forget? Edit: Something doesn’t make sense though, if you check out the Lamborghini Performante on that list it did 100-200 in 5.94s and it only has 630hp, so if you use the same logic the car with less power was faster than the car with more power? Perhaps, it actually shows the aventador was slow and maybe not a good benchmark to use on the list.
@@snivesz32 the 6.1 was 27psi on e60. However something that is just as important as boost is timing target. I was targeting 10deg peak at the time. Boost and timing targets will exponentially crank up cylinder pressures and EGTs and thats when things melt unexpectedly or rods bend. So whenever you ask about fuel and boost add timing targets to the question so you can get a better understanding of how hard the motor is being pushed. I recently did some testing launching from a dig, which hurts 100-200 times. But with a fuel mix of e50 and boost set at 25psi peak, i got 7.8sec 100-200, with timing at 6deg, and 6.8sec with timing target at 10deg (exactly the same boost curve). The extra 4deg of timing made a bigger difference than 5 psi would in this range. I have ran up to 13deg with very minimal corrections but i hear of some tuners running up to 16deg of timing on the N54s. Alex said he did his motor cos he over revved it....... but there are hundreds of little things on the N54s which will result in a "blown" motor and unless you are really really on the ball you wont notice. I had corrosion in my battery compartment bulk head fitting and the power to the water pump was interrupted. So i was essentially driving around with a water pump only working intermittently and never with full current.
Neither can I. I don’t know if I’m more interested in seeing if the turbos hold up or the engine/trans...... the motor had no service history when I got it.... going to be exciting few months either way hehe
@@ZeroTo60Tube from what I read Crank and Pistons are Forged. Motor should be good as long as you don't go crazy with the power/torque. transmission should hopefully be fine, considering you've serviced it properly, and from what I read 500 lb/ft at the wheels is said to be the limit, no Idea if that's true, wouldn't want to go any further considering its rear wheel drive anyway. The turbos not sure I guess you never know if you don't try, Your probably gonna need a custom tune as well. Hope all goes well. 👊
Looks so good! Can’t wait to see the draggy reports after install. Also mhd vs jb4 would be a nice comparison on new turbos I am having fuel cut problems because of a bucketed stage 2 lpfp.. I have to pull it out and get a bracket from BMP I have also been reading about Holley hydra mats for a better fuel pump filter. Thanks for this video and helping the platform get over the stigma of Chinese turbos
With your bucketed setup. Are you using the Venturi? Also wondering how long of a pull you have to do, to get starvation? I hoping to do stage 3 either this Sunday or Monday not sure if I want to open the bucket up yet, so the Venturi will be a decider.
Zero To 60 I didn’t know how to put the Venturi back in place and it feels as though I have no power in 5th. Code says pump plausibility but it’s a new pump and the low pressure system has correct pressures. There is a lot of possibilities.. when I installed a single bucketed 450, I heard a lot of vibrations and shaking in the tank (made me feel like the car was going to explode) most likely wasn’t secured in place properly and subsided after a while. I want to check fpr lines and see if they are still on their clips and make sure the return is pouring fuel in bucket before I swap for a bucket less bracket. I liked the KDP single bracket on BMP website. It has the option to add a second if you buy additional bracket.
@@ZeroTo60Tube with my setup I went with a walbro 450 and have done my own diy install with is bucketed and retains the venturi. Works perfect. I have a boost leak issue with my turbo currently though so haven't got to finish getting it tuned. I believe my issue may be with the outlets I had modified to fit the car from vrsf. Or the wastegates are crap, the diaphragm. And seemed okay like yours in the video with play.
You won’t have vacuum leaks from the rocker/cam cover, vacuum is in the intake, where you’re going to have boost, vacuum sucks, even worse if you’re boosted!
Spot on, the fins definitely are not as dense. I also can't remember what VRSF intercooler i saw the logo on the side of the tanks, i just thought it was interesting something has been ground off the side of these tanks..... We'll see how it works soon anyway.
Zero To 60 yes.. all of the VRSF intercoolers have their logo on sides of the end tanks. I truly hope it performs well for you and I’m looking forward to more videos. If it doesn’t work out go with the VRSF 7.5” Race. I have it and it’s a one time buy.
Very good thing to bring up. I am going to inspect them once they are off. I am hoping my current ones are good enough to be re-used..... Fingers are tightly crossed.
Also see about wrapping the hoses in heat wrap if you can. Maybe you can look into ceramic coating the manifolds or other components while you have them off to help with under hood temps and heat soak. I plan to do that once the turbos blow up. I'll just get new stock Mitsubishi turbos from FCP and have the lifetime warranty.
As I fitted the long list of supporting mods to my car and wound the stock turbos up on full e85 I have found a problem where I can’t maintain hpfp, even with port injection. So I’m tying to sort out that issue. We also just bought a hoist, so hopefully it will make filming the turbo install a lot easier. I think I know what the problem is with my car, but I will do an update video once confirmed.
Also there is an English WhatsApp group where about 30 people are running these turbos. I don’t think they have balanced and they are having a damn good run with them. But it’s your call. I won’t be balancing.
I would also replace the oil thermostat, it opens 10 degrees earlier than the original. Cold Thermostat Link from Germany : www.turboperformance.shop/motorentechnik/spezialteile-bmw/22664/bmw-n54/n55-135i/335i/535i-oelthermostat-zur-senkung-der-oeltemperatur-ab-baujahr-2008
@@ZeroTo60Tube When my turbos blew I also replaced them with chinese oem spec TD03's from JDMPartShop like you did. My wastegates still rattle but its weird. If I cold start and drive around they're fine. But as soon as I stop and restart they rattle, the exhaust is louder, but they perform the same. So given that play I would say adjust them as much as you can. I replaced my turbos at 136kms and its been 13k kms and they run and boost fine. My Luk clutch is slipping so I recommend the 550i clutch but your 17Ts will need a Spec 3+ and single mass flywheel. Cheers bud
@@ltdasilva93 thanks for all the info. The car these are for is actually a boring AT car.... but i still have my doubts as to whether the transmission will hold up.
@@ZeroTo60Tube You pretty much have everything addressed in your maintenance here. Make sure your boost solenoids are holding properly, do a nice carbon blast, and some new silicone boost lines and you're good. Don't hit the car hard until you get a proper custom tune that will modify the torque to come on smoother and a little later. That will save your transmission. Cheers bud I look forward to seeing you install all of this.
No we haven’t tbh. This trans does get hot so that’s been the priority. But engine doesn’t seem too bad for the type of driving the car cops. Not doing any circuit driving. Just the occasional street pull. What are your thoughts on the oil coolers? Obviously with these things running high boost, oil temps will be higher. We are just fitting the intercooler right now. The 7” is massive compared to the 5” 😳
@@ZeroTo60Tube yeah, I need to look at the trans cooler as well. I'm running the 5.5 in stepped intercooler. I can imagine that 7 in is massive compared. Not sure how your oil temps were looking running the stock turbos. I just know the oil cooler if you have one on the 3 series is quite small. The one on my e60 is quite large compared.
Unfortunately not. With the covid mess, freight on items i have needed has just been ridiculous and on top of that we are about to loose our workshop due to a downturn in business. These will hopefully go on early may in my garage at home, once we shut the business down. It's rather heartbreaking.
I would have liked to have tried the spool. But the second hand port injection kit, even with new injectors will cost about half what a spool would cost by the time it is shipped down here. I am also looking forward to taking load of the stock injectors which the port injection kit will do.
@@blrn54 well, I've set my expectations low on the lifespan.... but you never know. Where did the 42mm come from? Is that a size you have seen from a brand name you know makes good power?
I've read that, i want to specifically see what the ones are like that are fitted, how long they last and how much they rattle etc. We will be putting them through a torture test.
Oh man the casting looks so bad!! Any imperfection that is too sharp is a potential point of overheating and cracking, I can’t imagine how bad are the manifolds. I don’t understand what’s the point of spending so much time and effort into a build that is going to indubitably fail very soon
While i totally agree with your concern. This is a super old video. The turbos have done alright. Making close to 750hp at the crank now. Insanely fast 100-200 times. So very happy with them for what they cost. However, its time for an upgrade thats for sure.
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
Very interested in the intercooler thoughts and impressions, I'm a day or 5 away from ordering one myself. Really enjoying the content guys.
There's a group of us on Watts app, mostly UK but world wide too you may be interested in joining, about 250 of us, there's around 35 of us in UK with China 17t turbos, couple lads have pi meth setups too, plenty of info if you're interested, Ken from wedge is a member too. Only a couple of us have had issues with 17ts, couple others had smoke issue which is resolved by an alteration to pcv, they're solid turbos
Whats the whats app group mate? Im looking at buying these turbos and would love to have a chat with people who have done same thing, cheers mate
Could I get in on that? I’ve heard lots about it and would like to see your group’s results.
Likewise, would love to join WhatsApp chat, just finishing up fitting my 17t’s
I’m interested in this WhatsApp group
I can't wait for u guys to test those. I was about to pull the trigger on a set, so I guess I'll wait for you guys to have them fitted!
Yup, same here
cant wait for the reviews and how they work. will be interesting
Bringing this back from the dead but it would be nice to see your opinion since now you have real work experience with these
I actually did a video on this topic. Because its a very tough thing to answer simply. They are good BUT....... ua-cam.com/video/MoUuuOAJ6Yk/v-deo.html
@@ZeroTo60Tube nice thanks watching and giving it a like
I have this ic . Vrsf 7.5 is much more dense. Ive compared it to my friends. Results are great with both eitherway pull after pull
Good stuff. Looking forward to following along.
Please have them rebalanced to show if they were good coming from China, many in whatsapp group claim they are not correctly balanced. It could save you a lot of work and money to do this before they go in. :D
None of us have had them balanced and they run fine, around 35 members
Also, as for the play, remember components expand when hot
@@19kylegreer96 Could I get in touch with you? I'd be interested to have feedback from your group. Thanks! :)
How do I become a member of the group?
is that turbos´s on Ebay,that seller what name is VIV-autoparts?? There is so meny turbo seller...and hard to find right.. :)
hi mate, love your vids, do you know if they have anything similar for the N55 single turbo hybrid upgrade?
So excited, love the vids
Look forward to the next
The pressure will help the WG flapper to stop the play when installed
Makes sense. Thanks for confirming that.
Good review, however, I wouldn’t post HP figures in your title unless you actually got those #’s. The vendor doesn’t post that figure, and many other guys with similar setups have posted significantly different results. Eg VehicularDIY posted 537hp @ 24psi on E40, most others are between 500-550. And for reference a full send build on stock turbos can do 500hp @ 23psi (though not recommended). Now that your setup is installed it would be responsible to do a dyno and talk real numbers.
If you have a clue what you’re talking about you’ll know a drag slip or 100-200kmh has a lot more value than a dyno number.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Yeah don’t get me wrong those things have value, but they depend on other factors like car weight, auto or manual trans, and the driver. I think the dyno chart shows more information because it shows the torque curve which a single trap speed or time measure hides. Anyways, the titles says 700HP and I’m saying everyone else’s dynos 775RS’s around 525hp.
@@snivesz32 I totally get where you are coming from, i was the same when i was younger. To make you feel better about the title. A Lamborghini Aventador has over 700hp at the crank and weighs about 100kgs less than my car. Its also running through a single clutch transmission not a power sucking torque converter. And yet my car is faster than a Aventador on a 100-200 (dragy validated 6.13 seconds, check out this for real world 100-200 times by the best in the business AutotopNL bit.ly/2PSakev). Its pretty safe to say these turbos produce over 700hp at the crank. I dont know why the Vehicular DIY car is so low on power. If those Helix's work it should be well in to the 600whp mark, unless that dyno reads particularly low, which confirms my point about dynos.......... I wonder why DIY hasnt done any dragy runs? I saw Vehicle Virals N54 was also slow as on the dragy runs...... maybe these youtubers are more youtubers than car builders........ hehe
@@ZeroTo60Tube The draggy number is impressive for sure, and I want to believe it’s real since I may go this route. Another data point though, Alex the russian did 581whp@27psi and I think 618whp@31psi on E50 right before his engine catastrophically disassembled itself. So I guess if you are talking crank hp then it’s reasonable if you are running that much boost. On your draggy run what boost and fuel were you on, i forget?
Edit:
Something doesn’t make sense though, if you check out the Lamborghini Performante on that list it did 100-200 in 5.94s and it only has 630hp, so if you use the same logic the car with less power was faster than the car with more power? Perhaps, it actually shows the aventador was slow and maybe not a good benchmark to use on the list.
@@snivesz32 the 6.1 was 27psi on e60. However something that is just as important as boost is timing target. I was targeting 10deg peak at the time. Boost and timing targets will exponentially crank up cylinder pressures and EGTs and thats when things melt unexpectedly or rods bend. So whenever you ask about fuel and boost add timing targets to the question so you can get a better understanding of how hard the motor is being pushed. I recently did some testing launching from a dig, which hurts 100-200 times. But with a fuel mix of e50 and boost set at 25psi peak, i got 7.8sec 100-200, with timing at 6deg, and 6.8sec with timing target at 10deg (exactly the same boost curve). The extra 4deg of timing made a bigger difference than 5 psi would in this range. I have ran up to 13deg with very minimal corrections but i hear of some tuners running up to 16deg of timing on the N54s.
Alex said he did his motor cos he over revved it....... but there are hundreds of little things on the N54s which will result in a "blown" motor and unless you are really really on the ball you wont notice. I had corrosion in my battery compartment bulk head fitting and the power to the water pump was interrupted. So i was essentially driving around with a water pump only working intermittently and never with full current.
Can't wait to this all fitted and car properly tuned mate. 👌
Neither can I. I don’t know if I’m more interested in seeing if the turbos hold up or the engine/trans...... the motor had no service history when I got it.... going to be exciting few months either way hehe
@@ZeroTo60Tube from what I read Crank and Pistons are Forged. Motor should be good as long as you don't go crazy with the power/torque.
transmission should hopefully be fine, considering you've serviced it properly, and from what I read 500 lb/ft at the wheels is said to be the limit, no Idea if that's true, wouldn't want to go any further considering its rear wheel drive anyway. The turbos not sure
I guess you never know if you don't try,
Your probably gonna need a custom tune as well.
Hope all goes well. 👊
Zero To 60 you won’t have any issue power wise , the n54 can hold a lot with stock internals .
Looks so good! Can’t wait to see the draggy reports after install.
Also mhd vs jb4 would be a nice comparison on new turbos
I am having fuel cut problems because of a bucketed stage 2 lpfp.. I have to pull it out and get a bracket from BMP
I have also been reading about Holley hydra mats for a better fuel pump filter.
Thanks for this video and helping the platform get over the stigma of Chinese turbos
I does seem within tolerance but have heard of people buying better wastegates and having it balanced locally. Let’s see how it holds!
With your bucketed setup. Are you using the Venturi? Also wondering how long of a pull you have to do, to get starvation?
I hoping to do stage 3 either this Sunday or Monday not sure if I want to open the bucket up yet, so the Venturi will be a decider.
Zero To 60 I didn’t know how to put the Venturi back in place and it feels as though I have no power in 5th.
Code says pump plausibility but it’s a new pump and the low pressure system has correct pressures.
There is a lot of possibilities.. when I installed a single bucketed 450, I heard a lot of vibrations and shaking in the tank (made me feel like the car was going to explode) most likely wasn’t secured in place properly and subsided after a while.
I want to check fpr lines and see if they are still on their clips and make sure the return is pouring fuel in bucket before I swap for a bucket less bracket.
I liked the KDP single bracket on BMP website. It has the option to add a second if you buy additional bracket.
@@ZeroTo60Tube with my setup I went with a walbro 450 and have done my own diy install with is bucketed and retains the venturi. Works perfect. I have a boost leak issue with my turbo currently though so haven't got to finish getting it tuned. I believe my issue may be with the outlets I had modified to fit the car from vrsf. Or the wastegates are crap, the diaphragm. And seemed okay like yours in the video with play.
You won’t have vacuum leaks from the rocker/cam cover, vacuum is in the intake, where you’re going to have boost, vacuum sucks, even worse if you’re boosted!
That fmic isn’t close to the VRSF 7.5”.. the fin pack on that one isn’t dense. Interested to see how it cools for you.
Spot on, the fins definitely are not as dense. I also can't remember what VRSF intercooler i saw the logo on the side of the tanks, i just thought it was interesting something has been ground off the side of these tanks..... We'll see how it works soon anyway.
Zero To 60 yes.. all of the VRSF intercoolers have their logo on sides of the end tanks. I truly hope it performs well for you and I’m looking forward to more videos. If it doesn’t work out go with the VRSF 7.5” Race. I have it and it’s a one time buy.
Hi bro, one question
Do these turbos have LAG? From what Rpm does it spool, as oem or a little bit laggy?
Very similar spool to OEM.
Are this Ebay 17t turbo really a td04? or just a ported td03?
We Enjoy watching your channel 👌 Great vibes , We definitely support big time 🥂😎
Awesome man!
Did you get these turbos balanced before you installed them?
No just went straight in. Turbos have been good. Little bit of wastegate rattle but nothing annoying.
I'd recommend getting new turbo oil and coolant lines while you have them off.
Very good thing to bring up. I am going to inspect them once they are off. I am hoping my current ones are good enough to be re-used..... Fingers are tightly crossed.
Also see about wrapping the hoses in heat wrap if you can. Maybe you can look into ceramic coating the manifolds or other components while you have them off to help with under hood temps and heat soak. I plan to do that once the turbos blow up. I'll just get new stock Mitsubishi turbos from FCP and have the lifetime warranty.
the metal lines can be cleaned with parts cleaner and compressed air. Just need new orings/crush washers
any updates on this? I just got mine today and I don't know if I should get them balanced or not
As I fitted the long list of supporting mods to my car and wound the stock turbos up on full e85 I have found a problem where I can’t maintain hpfp, even with port injection. So I’m tying to sort out that issue. We also just bought a hoist, so hopefully it will make filming the turbo install a lot easier. I think I know what the problem is with my car, but I will do an update video once confirmed.
Also there is an English WhatsApp group where about 30 people are running these turbos. I don’t think they have balanced and they are having a damn good run with them. But it’s your call. I won’t be balancing.
Okey I see! Looking forward to see the progress!
Have you upgraded your clutch?
Where's the link to the item at @2:44
If i just want to get new turbos because of rattle and stay reasonably low boost.. is all of the extras needed?
Not at all. Go the 15 or 16t models with stock size inlets and you can bolt them straight on and leave everything else stock.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks for the reply. Love what you guys do! Keep it up!
I would also replace the oil thermostat, it opens 10 degrees earlier than the original. Cold Thermostat Link from Germany : www.turboperformance.shop/motorentechnik/spezialteile-bmw/22664/bmw-n54/n55-135i/335i/535i-oelthermostat-zur-senkung-der-oeltemperatur-ab-baujahr-2008
Dude thanks so much. That’s not something i had looked at. Thermals are going to be a problem for this car when our summer comes back aroundz
@@ZeroTo60Tube I will look at your result and also convert my 335 1: 1, very interesting👍 Good luck
quality of steel?
5:20 2 in the pink one in the stink
Haha if we had merch you’d be getting some free stuff right now 🤣😂
😂😂
@@ZeroTo60Tube When my turbos blew I also replaced them with chinese oem spec TD03's from JDMPartShop like you did. My wastegates still rattle but its weird. If I cold start and drive around they're fine. But as soon as I stop and restart they rattle, the exhaust is louder, but they perform the same. So given that play I would say adjust them as much as you can. I replaced my turbos at 136kms and its been 13k kms and they run and boost fine. My Luk clutch is slipping so I recommend the 550i clutch but your 17Ts will need a Spec 3+ and single mass flywheel. Cheers bud
@@ltdasilva93 thanks for all the info. The car these are for is actually a boring AT car.... but i still have my doubts as to whether the transmission will hold up.
@@ZeroTo60Tube You pretty much have everything addressed in your maintenance here. Make sure your boost solenoids are holding properly, do a nice carbon blast, and some new silicone boost lines and you're good. Don't hit the car hard until you get a proper custom tune that will modify the torque to come on smoother and a little later. That will save your transmission. Cheers bud I look forward to seeing you install all of this.
Have you guys looked at oil coolers?
No we haven’t tbh. This trans does get hot so that’s been the priority. But engine doesn’t seem too bad for the type of driving the car cops. Not doing any circuit driving. Just the occasional street pull. What are your thoughts on the oil coolers? Obviously with these things running high boost, oil temps will be higher.
We are just fitting the intercooler right now. The 7” is massive compared to the 5” 😳
@@ZeroTo60Tube yeah, I need to look at the trans cooler as well. I'm running the 5.5 in stepped intercooler. I can imagine that 7 in is massive compared. Not sure how your oil temps were looking running the stock turbos. I just know the oil cooler if you have one on the 3 series is quite small. The one on my e60 is quite large compared.
How many mm are the turbos?
have you installed them yet? what tune?
Unfortunately not. With the covid mess, freight on items i have needed has just been ridiculous and on top of that we are about to loose our workshop due to a downturn in business. These will hopefully go on early may in my garage at home, once we shut the business down. It's rather heartbreaking.
@@ZeroTo60Tube sux to hear that but hopefully things will settle sooner or later, keep up the good work meanwhile!
@@ZeroTo60Tube sorry to hear that man.
How have they held up?
These were amazing. Made 625whp
5:21
This is exciting! Does anyone have a link to these turbos so I can order them now :) and any info on the WhatsApp group would be amazing
Found the ebay link :)
Missing a spool Hpfp
I would have liked to have tried the spool. But the second hand port injection kit, even with new injectors will cost about half what a spool would cost by the time it is shipped down here. I am also looking forward to taking load of the stock injectors which the port injection kit will do.
SUBS INCOMING :D
What size compressor?
It’s listed on eBay as 43.4*58. Which was the biggest I could find in the china brands. What do you think?
@@ZeroTo60Tube Yep hoping they were around 42mm. Should rip while they hold up.
@@blrn54 well, I've set my expectations low on the lifespan.... but you never know. Where did the 42mm come from? Is that a size you have seen from a brand name you know makes good power?
@@ZeroTo60Tube I think the compressor most pure and rbs are 42mm. Evos and mmp might be bigger
💯💯💯💯💪
Please don’t have a play and wiggle on camera!! Lol, but dude, you need extra room for thermal growth of different metals.
In this turbos are one very big problem... very weak wg... you need change it...
I've read that, i want to specifically see what the ones are like that are fitted, how long they last and how much they rattle etc. We will be putting them through a torture test.
Oh man the casting looks so bad!! Any imperfection that is too sharp is a potential point of overheating and cracking, I can’t imagine how bad are the manifolds. I don’t understand what’s the point of spending so much time and effort into a build that is going to indubitably fail very soon
While i totally agree with your concern. This is a super old video. The turbos have done alright. Making close to 750hp at the crank now. Insanely fast 100-200 times. So very happy with them for what they cost. However, its time for an upgrade thats for sure.
700hp okay