Upgrade that Yellow Oil Drain Valve on a Husqvarna / Briggs Engine
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- Опубліковано 27 гру 2024
- The yellow drain valve and accompanying tube that comes with Husqvarna Lawn Tractors (and others) Briggs and Stratton engines is difficult to operate, leaks, gets loose easily and is generally a problem to use. I'll show you how to replace that valve with a few pieces of pipe so that you can throw the valve and the vinyl tube away. This makes changing the oil much easier, cleaner and simpler. I'm using a YTH22V46 lawn tractor. Here's what you need to upgrade this tractor:
1pc 3/8" x 3-1/2" pipe nipple amzn.to/2lxxwCf
1pc 3/8" x 2-1/2" pipe nipple amzn.to/3uYOqxG
1pc 3/8" pipe elbow amzn.to/2lzg5Bj
1pc 3/8" cap amzn.to/2lzO5gX
PTFE (teflon tape) or pipe thread sealant amzn.to/2lzODU3
Thanks for watching, please leave comments and questions below!
Dennis Coffey
Husqvarna YTH22V46 Lawn Tractor
Oil Change Yellow Valve Upgrade Replace
Oil Change Husqvarna
Good idea.I have changed oil on everything I own and I've never made such a mess as the time I changed the oil on my YTH 24V48
Me too, the damn thing comes loose from the block!
Those yellow drain valves are the devil! Thanks for watching!
@@dwcoffey so all i need is 3/8 threads because im looking everywhere for replacement plugs and cant find anything it keep giving me these valve plugs. hate em, poor design. i dont need the set up you have im just gonna plug it straight at the block. i have a trick i use to get the oil where i want it (just a cut out dixie cup works great)
I almost ordered the OEM replacement part, thinking that's what I needed. Your thinking outside the box makes so much better sense. Thank you for taking time to make this video.
Thank you for watching, Robert!
A local dealer suggested replacing our quick drain with this set up. I was actually searching on how to remove the quick drain, because of the location it's hard to get off. Then I stumbled across your video. Very simple to do and I appreciate the list of materials needed. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching, Nicole! It is so much easier to change the oil with this set up....and you don't have to worry about that yellow valve leaking (a common problem) Thanks!
You are a natural instructor. The way you explain your processes and demonstrate them as you go makes this work seem so easy. I've watched 3 of your videos and saved them all. Please keep doing what you are doing. Thank you, Mr. Coffey.
Thank you so much Robert! I really appreciate your comment, seriously. Thanks for watching!
Good fix. I've never trusted those plastic drain plugs that you twist and turn. They might come loose during mowing and spill your oil. I just replace with a simple plug, but your solution is much better.
Thank you for watching!!
Oh heck yeah! So glad I found this video! My wife's Craftsman 26hp Kohler High Performance Pro V-Twin was leaking oil and we weren't sure why. Today I pressure washed it so I could take a peek and found the dumb "easy" oil change valve was leaking. Luckily, since I didn't pay close attention that this video was for a Briggs engine, they have the same sized oil plugs. Was going to be two days from Amazon to get a new valve, but I saw this video, went to my farm store, bought the same pieces you have, and had it put together in about 10 minutes. Super easy, and a great hack to get away from those cheap oil change valves. Thanks man!
Thanks Jay! I'm glad it worked out, and yea, I really like this arrangement better than those leaky valves. Thanks for watching!
I stumbled upon your video when searching for a different alternative to the crappy yellow oil valve. I had 2 crack in 6 weeks…Thank you!!
Thanks for watching, Sashy! Yes, I am definitely not a fan of those valves.
Watched your video , got the Galvanized pipe did the conversion. 3/8 pipe on my 19 horse Briggs in my Areiens yard tractor, can’t believe how this simple conversion works , thanks for sharing !🚜
That's great! I think galv pipe works much better than the black pipe I used on this first one of mine. Thanks for watching!
Writing this in my garage having JUST drained the oil on our Husqvarna LGT 2654 and dealt with the mess. I usually manage the mess pretty well with a cut up brown paper grocery bag and paper towels, but THIS is brilliant. Going to definitely be making this modification. Thank you, Dennis (and for the parts list, too!). I love your videos - grateful for you taking the time to pass on your knowledge to this 51-year old woman (my daddy would be grateful since he’s no longer around to show me how)
I'm so glad these videos are helping! Yes, this is my favorite mod to this tractor.....it makes changing the oil so much easier! Thanks again for watching!
Thank you!!! You are a blessing!!! Love this!!! I changed the oil in the mower and I had a huge mess because I could not get the yellow plug to turn and the whole thing came out of the bottom of the motor and oil everywhere. I hate the design. You bet your bottom dollar I will be putting this to work. Thank you for sharing!!!
Thanks for watching, Stella! That's exactly what prompted me to get rid of that yellow drain valve! I used black pipe for my mod, but I'd suggest spending the extra little bit to get galvanized pipe. It won't rust and will look better for much longer.
I modded my Cub Cadet XT2 with the Kohler 26HP V Twin pretty much the same as you did. Only difference I used stainless steel 3/8 NPT pipe with a 90 degree elbow. Instead of using a extension and cap, I used a stainless steel 3/8 NPT mini ball valve. That way, I don't need a wrench to remove the cap and all I do is turn the vale 90 degrees and it drains perfectly. Thanks for the vid. Cheers!
After using black pipe for mine, I realized I should have used either galv or stainless. Glad you chose stainless, that will last longer and look better for sure. Using a ball valve concerned me a little because I cut out in the woods a lot and I was worried that some vine or brush would catch the ball valve handle and empty my engine oil! If I was only cutting in my lawn, I would definitely use your idea and put on a ball valve. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching!
do you have a parts list for this?
This is a great fix! Instead of the second nipple and cap, I got a 3/8 automotive ez drain valve. Now I never have to unscrew anything. Just flip the valve to drain the oil.
That's a great idea! Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching!
That would be a great video!
I am changing mine out because I am so tired of not being able to get the plug tighten and it leaking all the time. Thank you for the list. Very helpful.
Thank you for watching!
Thanks Dennis, the yellow cap is very irritating! Husqvarna should have designed the oil drain plug like you showed your subscribers. This is a very helpful tip.
Thank you John! I appreciate your kind words, and I agree!! Thanks for watching.
The ABSOLUTE BEST helpful video EVER. Make this change, DO IT, you’ll be happy you did. I used a hexagonal cap.THANK YOU!!!
Absolutely! Thank you for watching, Joe!! I appreciate it!!
Fantastic fix!.... I decided to go the galvanized route since my mower is garage kept and I was not concerned about rust issues. I had plenty of thread tape on hand, so my only expense was the galvanized pipe nipples, pipe elbow and cap....$10.25 total at my local Ace Hardware! Thank you for sharing this fix.
Thanks for watching, Jim! Nice!! In hindsight, I wish I had used galv pipe. no rust and just looks better. The black pipe is still better than that terrible yellow valve. haha!! Thanks!
Just ordered the parts for my brand new Craftsman T110.
Going to install after the break-in periods oil change.
Thank you for watching!
I KNEW Dennis would have a solution to this problem for me.
Thank you for watching!
thank you for this. I think a close nipple and a brass ball valve on that down spout will do perfectly. Then thread on a 3/8 male thread by garden hose thread on the end. That would let you attach an old garden hose to feed a pan and then place a gasketed brass cap on the end to keep things clean. I run a similar setup as mentioned on our electric motors at my job.
Nice! Thanks for watching!
I got the parts today at Home Depot and installed them tonight. All went to plan. I was hesitant before seeing you video, but became more confident afterward.
That's great Randal! I'm glad it went well, and thank you for watching!
Great idea. The yellow valve on mine spun loose last year and dumped the oil and was a total booger to get in there to retighten. Going to order pipe parts right now!
Thanks Jason, I appreciate you watching. Yes, I got aggravated with that yellow valve one time too many haha. It's much easier to change with the pipe on there....if you want to get real fancy, get a valve to fit the end of the pipe and you can open it to drain and close it to fill.
Follow up question: Have you had a problem with yours coming loose after this video? Mine lasted about three months and BAM! Popped loose one day and bent the heck out of the threads. Luckily, the threads on the motor weren’t damaged.
I have not had any problem with mine coming loose or leaking, Jason.
Man, this is a simple, cheap, and ingenious solution to a poor design by the factory. Thanks so much. I hated changing the old. I didn’t even have the drain valve to hook up to a hose, just the plug and as you can imagine, oil went everywhere. I went to Lowes, got the parts for less than $10 and installed it yesterday. Thanks again.
That's great! Yes, this makes the job so much easier. Thanks for watching!
I’m changing mine out this spring as soon as I grab the parts I need…. Old way was terrible and always a mess
Your videos have been a life saver as I've worked on my mower! Definitely doing this to my mower on the next oil change
Thanks for watching!
I have done this with home power equipment to enable cleaner changes. I prefer bronze to get THAT look. A little pricier, but I like that look enough to do that. No rust ever. To each his own. I use pipe dope and wipe off excess for a neat look.
I agree that Husqvarna messed up with that plastic pos drain.
Great ideas Sam! Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching!
Hey Sam how’s your bronze setup? Going to be doing this soon and need to know my options.
How well does bronze react with aluminum?
They definitely do keep that sprocket loose!! Mine loosened up, didnt notice that it had looeened and leaked out all my oil. Now I have a seized engine that wont turn 😢. Going to have to do an engine swap, and i will definitely be changing to this setup instead!! Thank you for your videos!
Oh, wow, that stinks! I am definitely not a fan of those yellow drain valves and this is one of the reasons why. Thank you so much for watching! I hope all goes well with the engine swap.
That's a good idea,going to do this on my husqvarna 24v48 with a 24hp Briggs and Stratton engine cause I hate having to keep up with the drain hose and cleaning the hose every time before you use it.
Thank you for watching!
That yellow piece of crap failed after I had just completed an oil change. Found oil all over my floor the next day. Thanks for sharing Dennis! It works perfect on my Craftsman T3200 w/Briggs & Stratton engine!!
I agree about those yellow valves. Thank you for watching! Glad this helped!
My old 3235 Cub Cadet with a 23hp Kohler twin has it sitting down on the bottom flange of the chassis C-channel, as opposed to on top with that Husky. It came with an elbow out of the sump pointing forward and an earlier version of that yellow valve, and it's been weeping oil for years. In my case I replaced it with a 1/4 turn ball valve. Wish I'd done that a long time ago.
Great idea! Thank you for watching!
Had this one on my to-do list for a couple years and just got it done! Thanks Dennis!
Great, I'm glad this helped! Thank you for watching!
Thank you!!!! Their design from the factory is terrible. Leaks more oil in my garage than a Harley Davidson :)
I agree, Alex! I really dislike that yellow valve. Thanks for watching!
I only have the plug in the base of the block with the plastic oil drain extension.
This and the yellow drain "thing" are NOT the best idea from B&S!
Hello Dennis,,,,,excellent job on this 3/8in. drain video. I love all your videos plus you do a great job at instructing them. Keep doing what you're doing brother.
Thank you so much, Paul! I appreciate the kind comment and thanks for watching!
Thanks for posting this how to video! I did this modification this weekend. (April 2024) you are a genius & I appreciate that you shared your knowledge ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I'm glad this helped!! Thank you very much for watching!
Thank you sir! My Husqvarna GL54 has been leaking oil along the passenger side this whole season and that fix took care of my leak!
That's great! Thanks for watching, Gerrod!
I like the hose type and can put in drains pan
Thanks for watching, Phillip!
I had a John Deere for 18 years with that same type of drain valve using a hose, I absolutely loved it, I just put the tube into a 2 liter soda bottle, no spilled oil at all. The only downside was keeping track of the hose between oil changes. Everyone has their own preferences, so its certainly no problem if you don't like it. My only point in this video, when you cut the plastic like that, the corners are a starting point for cracks. Take a Dremel or something similar and make a rounded cut, no place for cracks to start.
Thanks for watching!
I was able to do this with my 5 year old Husqvarna LGT2654 with all fittings (brass) purchased from Lowes. Thanks for your video.
Thanks for watching, Dan! Going with brass will be a nice idea! No rust and I bet it looks good too!
Good video suggestion. The oil drain on the Husqvarna is a little bit of a pain. Mine should be a little easier, the LGT2554 doesn't have the cowling, it's just open. Thanks, John
Yes, they could have left those cowlings off of all of them. Thanks for watching. John!
I have a 2009 Craftsman gt5000,and my mower needed a 4" 3/8" nipple coming from the motor. I also found a 3/8" 90° elbow at lowes that already had a nipple on one end,so I only needed 3 parts for this mod.
Costs about $7-9 at Lowe's in total vs the $20ish those Amazon links wants.
That's great! Yes, I think those parts will always be cheaper locally than online, but I include them for folks who don't have access to local hardware. Thanks so much for watching!
I did the same 3 parts on my 2006 Craftsman YS4500, used the 4" nipple. No hood modification needed.
I love the oil drain valve on my new scag motor on my new Liberty Z 48, 2023
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for all your videos on the Husqvarna lawn tractor. It's helping me alot with the maintenance of the tractor :) Kind regaards from Denmark
Thank you for your support, Rene' !
I like doing this but I omit the down-pipe & cap and simply put as square drive plug in the elbow for a simple open end wrench solid bite easy removal.
Thanks for watching!! I love square drive stuff. almost all the screws I use in my woodshop are square drive. You can't beat the bite! I included the elbow and down pipe to clear that plastic cowling more than anything. I agree with you, could've just used a bit longer pipe out of the block and capped it. Thanks for sharing the idea!
Dennis thank you for the class on changing the yellow drain valve but I have a problem how do you detect and fix a oil leak .I appreciate your answer. Thank You.
Thanks for watching, Deborah! Best way is to clean everything on and around the engine. You may be able to find the leak if it sits for a day or two. If not, you may have to run the engine for a few minutes to find it.
Thank you again Dennis, changed oil drain plug on my Husqvarna LGT 2654 with the instructions you've given.Works like a charm be blessed.
Thanks for watching, Larry! Glad it worked out!
dont know if you guys cares but if you are bored like me during the covid times then you can watch pretty much all the new series on InstaFlixxer. Have been watching with my girlfriend for the last couple of days xD
@Bronson Jamari Definitely, have been watching on InstaFlixxer for since december myself :)
@Bronson Jamari Yea, I've been watching on InstaFlixxer for since november myself =)
@Bronson Jamari yup, I have been using InstaFlixxer for since november myself =)
Thanks Dennis, this was the best thing I could do for my Husqvarna. Thanks for the video - Absolutely a must for this engine! Great job. Just did mine last week and was amazed how easy it was and couldn't understand why they didn't do this in the first place.
Thanks for watching!! I agree....that little yellow valve made me fuss every time I changed the oil. Now I have no issues and the oil change goes a lot smoother!
Lot of effort and time to modify a simple procedure, I have never had a problem with my YTH2246. And I change oil at least twice a year.
Some people have used the yellow drain valves for years with no problems, others have had nothing but problems. I'm glad yours is working fine! Thanks for watching Paul, I appreciate it!
Very Innovative Dennis. I will do that to mine as well. Got almost 30 hrs on mine now and it mows great. Still have the starting issue though it started without a glitch this last time. Very peculiar indeed.
That is odd, Joe. I hope you get that starting problem figured out. Thank you for watching, I appreciate it!
I bought a used 06 Craftsman with 22 hp B&S this summer and it is tough to start yesterday after mowing the 1/2 acre lawn. 255 hours.
I do this on all my engines but I only use the straight pipe and a cap. You don't need the elbow and extra fittings to leak or risk getting snapped off. Plus it is a straight shot to drain.
Thanks for watching, Monel!
For 3 years I have battled my oil change. Have trashed under frame and new MTD belt with oil. I am at my end on all this. My issue is a little differ. I have a Briggs 17.5 on a 2008 Yard Machine mower. Drain sits in same spot BUT like alot of these mowers is the dreaded tire rod. The rod sticks out side of frame just a tad. Goes cross from and right cross drain way to right tire. Needless to say the rod is in the way for a pipe. I need a pipe out drain not even half long as yours. A 90 from there abd pipe over. Another 90 and pipe out to end of frame. From there a 90, a pipe and cap. Now I spent about 3 hrs in Lowes with detailed info and photos with pipe sec. They tell me they do not sell that pipe that short out drain. Nor can they cut a pipe. That the pipe has to be so long to cut and add thread and machine won't cut and thread that short. Soooo... I wanted to pipe but no go. I'm looking at Briggs part- 1723165SM as a thought now. The hose.
Thanks for watching, Joseph! What about flexible tubing and a petcock in the end of it? Would that work for your mower?
I used 3/8" x 3.5" black nipple, a 3/8" coupling, and a 3/8' square black iron plug
No 90 angle or cap fitting which make the job look a bit too much like plumbing.
The yellow drain contraption leaked while i was mowed the lawn and caused me to run with low oil.
Glad you got it replaced! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing this. I hate that silly little yellow valve. It’s annoying and the placement where Husqvarna positioned it so close to the frame makes it a real PITA to operate. I’ll be making this modification on my next oil change.
Thanks for watching, JD! Since I replaced that yellow valve with the 'plumbing', oil changes are a lot easier. I'm glad I did it. If I did it again, I'd probably opt for galvanized pipe though. It doesn't rust as easily.
Great vid!! Thanks. I've got the 750cc dual OHC 24HP Briggs engine with same config as what Dennis demos. In my case, I didn't have to mess with the cowling. So I simply took a 4" galvanized nipple and put the end cap on it. BTW, never use brass nipple going into aluminum. Galvanized is OK so long as the galvanic coating is solid. The metallurgical guys would also not advise putting a steel nipple into aluminum. Dennis may want to provide an opinion on this. But his vid is great and well appreciated.
Thanks for watching, Chuck! Very good points. The electrical potential difference between two given metals is what causes corrosion/deposition issues. Interestingly enough, the electrical potential difference between aluminum vs steel and aluminum vs zinc is almost the same (albeit in different directions). So, there will always be some issues with dissimilar metals, but the nice thing about this application is that there's not much difference whether you use galv or black pipe (I'd recommend galvanized - I used black pipe because that's what I had on hand, but it doesn't look as nice). If you wipe the pipe with your oil rag when you're done with the oil change, any deposition or corrosion will be nearly zero unless you are in a very harsh environment (constant salt water exposure, etc).
Great video. Doubles over to older cub cadets
I think Briggs must have used these on almost all models of mower engines. Thanks for watching!!
Big Thank You. 4 inch galvanized 3/8 " , 90 degree elbow, and one square ended plug. $5.29 total including tax. Yeah.
Nice!! Thanks for watching, Michael!
Thanks, Dennis. Your videos about your Husqvarna are superb, taking time to demonstrate and care for it. I would have used the short nipples and plugs idea, but I wasn't certain about putting holes in the side panels, when one of the tubes like the oil drain hoses like the Drainzit is available for about the same cost of the hardware of pipes, etc. (although a good idea in some cases). Once again, thanks for the videos as I've just bought the YTH18542 42 in. which is close and I can use the info given.
Thank you Jerry! I appreciate you watching!
Thank you so much!!!! I will be doing this I am tired of making a mess when changing the oil.
Thanks for watching! I love having mine setup with this.
@@dwcoffey I used a zip tie for that rivet hole for a while but just let it fly now.
Thanks for sharing this video with us. I will do this for sure. I don't like the yellow valve it a problem for me. I broke it the first time I changed my oil. I have a 24 horse power and 54inches cut .
Thanks for watching, David! Yes, I really dislike those little yellow valves. I've been happy with this mod on mine.
Great job as always Dennis, *Thank You* for this video. That yellow oil drain valve will be gone on mine this week! Going to get my pipe fittings today. :) ~~~~~~ Now show us your solution for that messy OIL FILTER change. :)
Thnaks Jim! The best solutions have come from a few viewers.....take a milk jug and cut out one side of it to use as a channel, use a paper plate, or use tin foil to make a channel to catch the oil as it come out of the filter and route it to your catch pan. What I'd really like to do is make up a remote oil filter mount like we used to put on hot rods so you can out the filter where you want it. Saves time and mess...but, I don't think anybody would make a flange to fit this tractor engine! :)
@@dwcoffey Yep, I've tried a couple of ways ... there just isn't a good (not messy) way that I've found yet. But I'll keep looking. :)
@@dwcoffey Food for thought. (?) Check this out. -=- Giant Oil change Filter on V twin Briggs D3422 Bosch Ariens mower -- ua-cam.com/video/zXT_zRWjMlo/v-deo.html
--- BRIGGS-STRATTON 492932 - Alternative oil filters --- There are 56 replacement oil filters for BRIGGS-STRATTON 492932. The cross references are for general reference only, please check for correct specifications and measurements for your application. -- www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/BRIGGS-STRATTON/492932
Thanks, I'm going to the hardware store today. I hate that dang yellow valve.
Thanks for watching! I do too! Leaky valves should not be used on an engine! :)
Nice plumbing work.
Thank you! I appreciate you watching!
Great video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I ended using a pair of spark plug pliers in my last oil change to grip turn & pull that stupid yellow oil plug. This solution is a great fix to make oil changes easier. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thanks for watching!
Explaining everything simple....thank you Dennis...
Thank you for watching, David!
I actually bought one of the yellow drains thinking it would be great. I think I'm going to go this route with my Troy-bilt Bronco instead. Thanks!
Thanks for watching, Art! You'll like this conversion better I think. I recommend going with galvanized pipe, though. It will stay looking good longer than black pipe.
I did this same mod to my Kohler powered Husqvarna a couple years ago,lame drain plug that's finger tight at best with no way to tighten.I figured it was some Kohler BS but apparently the Brigs have the same POS drain. GOOD VID!!!
Thanks for watching, Rob! Seems like a lot of small engine manufacturers use these drain valves. I hate them. Thanks for the comment!
So does the Kawasaki
Would it be better to use brass tubing to keep from messing up the blocks threads?
Thanks for watching! If you can fine brass threaded brass tubing, I don't see any reason it wouldn't work. But steel pipe won't hurt the block threads either, as long as you thread the pipe in correctly.
I did this same thing on an air compressor. Makes things much easier. You could also spray paint it and let it dry before installing the pipe. I found mine is leaking. I think it’s causing my belt to slip sometimes.
Thanks for watching, Christopher! I agree. On another install, I used galvanized pipe....much cleaner and stays looking good.
@@dwcoffey hey, thanks for the good, free information. Just another thought, maybe consider uploading your videos from UA-cam to Rumble, Odyssey, and Bitchute. A lot of us are leaving UA-cam and you could get a hide following over there too. Some of those platforms will automatically migrate your videos for you. 👍
I'll check it out! Thanks for that info!
Thanks, Dennis you are an excellent instructor. Rick
Thank you Rick! I appreciate you watching!
Have A CuB Cadet…!!! Same Issue…!!! Thank You…!!! My Head Is Spinning With Ideas…!!!
Thanks for watching!
Wish I had seen this 4 years ago! I know what I'm doing next season lol. Thanks!
Thanks for watching, Lee! I'm glad I did this to mine....makes the oil change a lot easier!
I just watched your video. I have a question about this. I noticed there’s not a lot of room between the 3 1/2”nipple from the block and the frame of the mower. Does the motor twist on the frame from the torque of it? I’m afraid that it might break the nipple and cause more problems. Thank you for your advice.
Thanks for watching, Dave! Since the engine is directly bolted to the frame, there's no movement between the two of them so no risk to the nipple. I've not had a bit of trouble with this since installing several years ago.
@@dwcoffey thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for this really helpful video! What is the difference between the 2 pipe nipple on the description? One is $4 while the other brand is $11. Thanks!
Thanks for watching and thanks for pointing that out! I think they must have changed the price on the 2-1/2" nipple since I posted this. I found a more reasonable priced one: amzn.to/3uYOqxG
Maybe Husqvarna should let you design the next lawn mower thanks for the video
LOL! right? Thanks for watching!
One tip for people doing this. When you are working with these pipe threads, do not try to grab it on any threaded end with your fingers or hand and turn it. The thread swill dig into your skin and you will wind up with a dozen little cuts on your fingers from the threads.
Good point!! Thanks for watching, Mike!
You could eliminate the elbow and the 2-1/2'"nipple and just put the cap on the 3-1/2 " pipe, or better yet, use a 4" instead of 3'1/2". That way you could just make a hole in the plastic shroud for the pipe to go through and you could still use the lower attachment clip for the shroud.
Great idea! Thanks for watching, Pete!
Yeah Dennis...good mod.Think I will do the same to my Poulan Pro...come on Spring (miss riding around cutting my grass drinking lemonade! :)
Thanks for watching! Yea, I have to admit....I'm looking froward to cutting some grass!
Great video. I'm doing it to my 24V54 as soon as possible. Is there any problem with vibration loosening up the pipe assembly?
Thanks for watching! No problems at all. The PTFE tape helps to keep the pipe from getting loose, in addition to sealing the threads.
I saw this video today, I’m heading out to buy the parts. Common sense! Thanks.
Thanks for watching, Jonathan!
Couldn't you just use a longer length of the 3/8 pipe coming out of the drain hole into the existing hole (even if one makes the hole a little bit larger? Or perhaps use a "reducer" to narrow down the pipe at the hole and get a smaller end cap to fit the reduced pipe? Or is it, that a little bit longer will hit the tire when it is turned in that direction. I'm curious.
Thanks for watching, Jerry! Yes, you could definitely do that. I just used what I had on hand.
Just changed to oil in mine for the 1st time since I was gifted this mower last year. Ever since getting oil back into it I noticed oil blowing out where the dipstick goes. I got to investigating cause I noticed bubble in the oil after check the level. Any ides what is causing this?? I'm pretty sure it didn't do this before I changed the oil. I just cant find anything wrong and it runs fine.
Thank you for watching! Normally this would indicate there is too much oil in the engine.
@@dwcoffey Thanks I hope this is the case. I put in 48ozs which seemed to be what it call for from what I had looked up. Like I said seems to be running fine other than that. Thanks again!
Can you do one on a valve cover gasket my Koehler engine leaks
Thanks for watching, David! I'm sorry, but I don't have anything with a Kohler engine.
Thanks for the info and advice. Getting ready to change mine over now.
Thank you for watching!
I work at a hardware-small engine tech. Have done numerous times as I tell my clients it is not if but when the orings fail or it vibrates off. I use 31/2 and cap only. Then use a dremel to make a oblong hole so that the cover will go over and lock into place like it always did. Pry out that button and reuse to hold the cover so when you close the hood everting jives. As a note teflon tape does NOT seal, it or pipedope acts as a lubricant and lets more of the threads to contact into the NPT taper. Great video though.
Thanks for watching!
Do you have to add more oil to account for the extra pipe?
Thanks for watching, Duke! The added pipe takes an extra 1/2 ounce of oil (about 14 ml).
@@dwcoffey Thank you Dennis for responding and for posting these great videos!
Thank you for your support, Duke!!
Great idea and video Dennis! I just happened across this video after changing my oil last night. Wish I had seen it before so I wouldn't have gotten in trouble from my wife after getting oil on my driveway. I'm buying the parts tonight so I can install it on the next oil change. Also-who actually can find their clear drain hose that came with the mower? I must have lost mine in 2017 the week after buying my Husqvarna! LOL
Glad this helped! Thank you for watching, Gary!
I think I have one of those brass Fumoto oil drain valves laying around, I was going to replace my truck’s oil plug with it but I’m afraid it will get knocked off. I may stick it on the end of a pipe and put it on the lawnmower. That would be perfect, they are kind of pricey though so I don’t know if I’d buy it for a lawnmower, if I did I’d take it off when I sold the mower and put it on the new one.
Thanks for watching! Sounds like a great idea.
Hi.i have question?????? can I use the first piece and the last piece( the Nipple 3/8 inchx2 1/2+fitting cap).OR should be use the four pieces you use it. For the oil drain valve. Thanks professional man
Thanks for watching! You could just use the first and last piece.....should work just fine.
@@dwcoffey thanks so much for the awesome video and your explanation to me.
Did the pipe upgrade today,and notched the cover w dremmel
Thanks for watching Mark....that's what I started to do too, it just worked out that I had my shears handy and I was too lazy to go get my Dremel. :)
Tin snips and a flat bastard file are man's best friend
Dennis thanks for the great info ! Next up grade I have to do .
Thank you for watching, Steve! I recommend using galvanized pipe, rather than black pipe as I used in the video. I t will look good longer and is less messy.
Great video Dennis!
Question for the commenters: Has anyone tried it on the YTH18542 with the Briggs & Stratton 18.5 HP (model 33R7770005G1)? I have one, and like you, I don't like the yellow oil drain setup from the factory. Wondering about the sizing of the pieces to add a drain like Dennis did in this video.
Thanks for watching! Sizes, etc should be the same.
Thank you Dennis, that was very good instruction and a great idea.
Thank you for watching, bubba!
Just what I needed to know. Thank you Dennis!
Thank you for watching, David!
Thanks Dennis...super helpful videos! Do I really need the two engines cowls? I was thinking of removing them...
Thanks John! I appreciate you watching. No sir, those cowlings are marginally useful for keeping some debris from accumulating around the engine, and that's about it, as far as I can tell. Removing them would not hurt a thing.
@@dwcoffey Thanks Dennis...please keep it up...your videos are super helpful to us novices!
Thank you as well big leak too!! They should have it the same way. Good job!
Thank you for watching, Lee!
Excellent video, this is just what I was looking for. You made it look easy to get done.
Thank you Randal! I appreciate you watching. I sure do like this better than having that leaky yellow factory valve :)
Do you have a video when you change the oil with the metal oil drain valve
No, I'm sorry. T drain the oil with this modified drain, I just unscrew the cap and let the oil drain into my bucket. Thanks for watching.
Would putting a valve in have worked for you? If so what kind of valve?
Thanks for watching, Lito! Yes, I think a ball valve would work ok. The only risk for me would be that I could possibly snag the valve handle on brush, inadvertently open the valve and drain the oil If you are only running on a smooth lawn, with no brush etc, a valve would be a nice addition.
Can anyone let me know if you are concerned about the steel being inside the aluminum block? Would that not cause it to corrode?
Thanks for watching! Stainless steel and aluminum do not make good companions due to galvanic corrosion. Steel or galvanized steel pipe as used here don't pose much of a galvanic problem and it would be unusual to see any noticeable corrosion. If you put some PTFE tape on the threads going into the block, it will even further reduce any likelihood of corrosion.
@@dwcoffey Awesome Thank you! I am making a drain for my Husq snow blower because they don't make one from the side drain.
Just use the turn down and a pipe plug with a square head. Shorter but much easier.
I think that would work just fine! I added the extra nipple to be sure I could drain it without getting oil on the frame. But I think you are right, could probably do without it.
Just what I was looking for. Thank you.
Thank you for watching!
Great information!!!
Thank you for watching, Rick!
Dennis - thanks once again for posting these really helpful videos regarding the Husqvarna tractor. I want to replace the yellow drain plug following your instructions in this video. Unfortunately, I could not find the components in either galvanized or black steel, but I did find them in copper. Could I use copper pipe and fitting for this application. The copper pipe seems pretty substantial. Thanks, Dave
Hi Dave,
Yes, if its threaded copper, it should be fine. I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work just as well. It'll eventually turn green on you, as copper does when exposed to the elements...that would be the only drawback. I used black pipe on mine, but am going to change it to galv pipe.....less rust and no mess.