Hey Buster! Thanks for the comment - sounds like you have a pretty hefty machine! Phew! Is that one of them flathead Ford V-8 machines? Or a 6 cyl. Chrysler? Hobart-specific parts are “raritanium” and outside of finding another hobart machine to use for parts, I know of no manufacturer who currently makes any reproduction mainliner parts. I was lucky in that Weldy was mostly intact and there were very few parts I had to *make* myself, but barring having a parts machine, that’s really where you’re at. Worst case, I imagine some lincoln parts could be modified to work on the Mainliner since they are very plentiful and readily available.
I really enjoyed this video, and I don’t even own a Hobart welding machine. I think it’s your delivery, attention to detail, and thoroughness. How did your winter go?
Pat, good to hear from you. Thanks for watching my video, I appreciate you. And well, to be honest, it was a long Winter. But it feels like this hundred year storm is finally on its way out.. which is something to look forward to. I do appreciate your kind words and I hope you had a short and warm Winter!!
@@Convoycrazy We had a fairly mild winter here, which is bad for the local farmers because they depend on runoff from the Sierras to fill our reservoir. I think we’ll make it through this year, but if we don’t get a good snow pack this coming winter, things may get pretty bleak as far as farming is concerned. The Naval Air Station here, however, boosts our economic quite a bit, so I think we’ll pull through. I also wanted to tell you that my wife and I were in Eureka a while back and we took a tour of the old opera house there. It was the first time we’d been inside. The interior is quite elegant. When you come through our area next time, you need to stop and see it. I know it was closed when you passed through Eureka last time.
Thank you for the tip, it sounds like a beautiful place! I do hope to get back out your way in the future. I’ll be coming as far W as Aberdeen, SD this year towards the end of July. And I don’t often pray for snow, but if it makes it so that agriculture can continue, that’s what I’ll do ha ha 🙏🏼
Hi I have Hobart similar my is running to my question is I have the lead or wire for welding but don’t weld I have question if you have any idea how setup to weld or I have to push any switch thanks
Do you know where I can buy the fuel lines with the fittings on already, took them all off and had them sitting in garage and my dad moved bunch of stuff and cannot find them.
As far as I know, you can’t buy any pre-made lines… you might be able to buy the pump to carb line if you’re running a carter WO, for a jeep from one of the various jeep sites. The tank to pump line is a custom hobart line.. you’ll need to either find the one you have or make a new one. I used NiCopp brake line for my lines, it’s easy to work and flares well. The ends are standard American inverted flare nuts
Unfortunately no, they’re not - well kinda but there’s a PCV valve on the intake side of the tube and then a screen in the valve cover with a special cone shaped piece that the one valve cover bolt goes through.. without those parts, you’ll suck oil out of the side of the engine there and start burning oil pretty bad… that whole assembly you can buy.. but it’s going to be a lot easier/cheaper if you can find it…
@@Convoycrazy well I guess I'm going to order the line and a new pcv valve screw it, the other one might needed to be replaced anyway only $65 total don't know about shipping
Do you have the CJA2 Motor in it? Mine is very similar, but the tag came off and also is there a temp gauge for them? I'm also needing a radiator cap lol
CF507A is the filler neck supply company part number for the caps. I can vouch for the site, it is a real business and not a scam. As I mention in the vid, I bought two and welded the vent shut for my fuel tank. The engine in this is marked cj2a but has some M38 parts on it so it may have been surplus. It is the L134 willys flathead godevil in these machines, yes. I’ve found that the radiator is so LARGE in thse machines that you’ll never need to worry about temperature and I suppose Hobart didn’t either because AFAIK none of them ever came with temp gauges. I suppose … that it would be easy to pull a pipe plug and install a generic temp gauge though if that’s what you want to do! Wouldn’t hurt anything!
@Johnny Rossman Thanks ! I ordered the cap and new brushes. Is it possible to make a video explaining the 5 gears and rheostat adjustment ? I was burning some 3/32 rods and it was either to cold or the rod was glowing red when I was welding. I have a diagram of the settings but it maxes out at 100 on the rheostat. I can email it to you if you'd like
I can do that, but in the meantime, I can explain that briefly here in the comments. Even the manual states “approximate” ampere ratings of: 1: 25-65A, 2: 65-115A, 3: 90-215A, 4: 165-320A, 5: 290-360A. Now this is if you have a “250A” mainliner or pipeliner like the Hobart I have. The rheostat, at zero, will be approximately the lower number. The rheostat, at 100, will be the higher number. It takes a bit of guesstimation and adjustment to get the rod dialed in to what position, the electrode, the length of cables, etc you are using at that particular time. That, of course, is one of the reasons “ditch boxes” are so highly coveted, because you can adjust the fine current [rheostat] on the fly. If your machine ONLY welds on either 0 or 100 on the rheostat, it’s time to ohm it out, clean it, and diagnose why it’s not working properly, if that’s the case. You should, after you pick the right “gear”, be able to dial in the correct amperage setting with the dial. Hope this helps, and thank you for the idea about a future video.
I just picked up a Hobart welder and the engine is seized. I pulled the starter out and put a bar on the flywheel and it would not move any guidance you can give me would be appreciated
Hi Jon, hope you can get her loosened up - I've heard a lot of folks will pull the plugs and dump some marvel mystery oil down the holes and let it sit a few days. You might need to take the radiator end of the machine off to get at the front of the engine properly. I would be careful forcing a stuck L134 because if it's something in the valve train that's [also] stuck, it's very easy to start to press a valve guide out. It might be necessary to pull the water pump and timing cover off to remove the timing chain if you suspect something in the valve train is holding it up. Taking the head off to inspect the damage might be prudent. I did a rebuilding series on this machine - it's a good idea to heat the head nuts up red hot and let them cool and work some oil in them so you don't accidentally snap a head stud. After heating them red hot, they should come right off. Good luck!
Thankfully there are many resources out there now for the go-devil engine regarding parts and knowledge because of the vintage jeep crowd etc. They even make new blocks. There's not much there that can't be fixed as long as the Hobart side of the machine is still in good shape!
Hey Travis! So your 46 is definitely going to be 6V unless it was converted over to 12 at some point. It’s very common, through the decades, for someone to have converted it over. If everything is original, it will be 6V. Side note, I got my new 6V coil at Autozone, it was very affordable (it was like $14 or $20) and they had one on the shelf. You might want to clean off the engine generator tag and double check, it’ll say 6 or 12V output, originally 6 but someone may have put a 12V generator on it. Further, if someone put an alternator on it instead of a generator, it’s most likely been converted to 12V.
Welp Dave, that’s the only thing that was missing, I’d planned on welding up a nice custom oil bath for it, I have one laying around here somewhere to modify. I really shouldn’t be running it with nothing at all over the snout. You got a sharp eye!
Good to see you again Johnny!
Charlie! Hey there, good to hear from ya - hope you enjoyed the video and have been doing well! 👋🏼
I have the big brother to that machine,,,, where do you get your parts ??? Mine is a 1967 500amp mainliner ,,,,,
Hey Buster! Thanks for the comment - sounds like you have a pretty hefty machine! Phew! Is that one of them flathead Ford V-8 machines? Or a 6 cyl. Chrysler? Hobart-specific parts are “raritanium” and outside of finding another hobart machine to use for parts, I know of no manufacturer who currently makes any reproduction mainliner parts. I was lucky in that Weldy was mostly intact and there were very few parts I had to *make* myself, but barring having a parts machine, that’s really where you’re at. Worst case, I imagine some lincoln parts could be modified to work on the Mainliner since they are very plentiful and readily available.
@@Convoycrazy no its just a 4cyl willis flat head jeep engine
Great video Johnny. Great machine.
Hey thank you for stopping by and thanks for the comment, I sure do appreciate it!
Yup i have same caps on my old case tractors my 310 320 and 530 730 case tractors all have that cap
Thanks for the comment! That might help some people out 👍🏼
With an old Hobart I'd been more afraid of stalactites growing under the hood and an infestation of bats!!!lol
Ha ha ha you’re not kiddin! I see quite a few SA-200’s around on rigs but .. not the ol’ hobarts
I really enjoyed this video, and I don’t even own a Hobart welding machine. I think it’s your delivery, attention to detail, and thoroughness. How did your winter go?
Pat, good to hear from you. Thanks for watching my video, I appreciate you. And well, to be honest, it was a long Winter. But it feels like this hundred year storm is finally on its way out.. which is something to look forward to. I do appreciate your kind words and I hope you had a short and warm Winter!!
@@Convoycrazy We had a fairly mild winter here, which is bad for the local farmers because they depend on runoff from the Sierras to fill our reservoir. I think we’ll make it through this year, but if we don’t get a good snow pack this coming winter, things may get pretty bleak as far as farming is concerned. The Naval Air Station here, however, boosts our economic quite a bit, so I think we’ll pull through. I also wanted to tell you that my wife and I were in Eureka a while back and we took a tour of the old opera house there. It was the first time we’d been inside. The interior is quite elegant. When you come through our area next time, you need to stop and see it. I know it was closed when you passed through Eureka last time.
Thank you for the tip, it sounds like a beautiful place! I do hope to get back out your way in the future. I’ll be coming as far W as Aberdeen, SD this year towards the end of July. And I don’t often pray for snow, but if it makes it so that agriculture can continue, that’s what I’ll do ha ha 🙏🏼
Hi I have Hobart similar my is running to my question is I have the lead or wire for welding but don’t weld I have question if you have any idea how setup to weld or I have to push any switch thanks
Do you know where I can buy the fuel lines with the fittings on already, took them all off and had them sitting in garage and my dad moved bunch of stuff and cannot find them.
As far as I know, you can’t buy any pre-made lines… you might be able to buy the pump to carb line if you’re running a carter WO, for a jeep from one of the various jeep sites. The tank to pump line is a custom hobart line.. you’ll need to either find the one you have or make a new one. I used NiCopp brake line for my lines, it’s easy to work and flares well. The ends are standard American inverted flare nuts
@@Convoycrazy found the fuel pump ones just missing the valve cover one, are the fittings the same?
Unfortunately no, they’re not - well kinda but there’s a PCV valve on the intake side of the tube and then a screen in the valve cover with a special cone shaped piece that the one valve cover bolt goes through.. without those parts, you’ll suck oil out of the side of the engine there and start burning oil pretty bad… that whole assembly you can buy.. but it’s going to be a lot easier/cheaper if you can find it…
@@Convoycrazy well I guess I'm going to order the line and a new pcv valve screw it, the other one might needed to be replaced anyway only $65 total don't know about shipping
The spring in the pcv Valve is good, I just need the line, and some gaskets and I can see what it's going to do
Do you have the CJA2 Motor in it? Mine is very similar, but the tag came off and also is there a temp gauge for them? I'm also needing a radiator cap lol
CF507A is the filler neck supply company part number for the caps. I can vouch for the site, it is a real business and not a scam. As I mention in the vid, I bought two and welded the vent shut for my fuel tank. The engine in this is marked cj2a but has some M38 parts on it so it may have been surplus. It is the L134 willys flathead godevil in these machines, yes. I’ve found that the radiator is so LARGE in thse machines that you’ll never need to worry about temperature and I suppose Hobart didn’t either because AFAIK none of them ever came with temp gauges. I suppose … that it would be easy to pull a pipe plug and install a generic temp gauge though if that’s what you want to do! Wouldn’t hurt anything!
@Johnny Rossman Thanks ! I ordered the cap and new brushes. Is it possible to make a video explaining the 5 gears and rheostat adjustment ? I was burning some 3/32 rods and it was either to cold or the rod was glowing red when I was welding. I have a diagram of the settings but it maxes out at 100 on the rheostat. I can email it to you if you'd like
I can do that, but in the meantime, I can explain that briefly here in the comments. Even the manual states “approximate” ampere ratings of: 1: 25-65A, 2: 65-115A, 3: 90-215A, 4: 165-320A, 5: 290-360A. Now this is if you have a “250A” mainliner or pipeliner like the Hobart I have. The rheostat, at zero, will be approximately the lower number. The rheostat, at 100, will be the higher number. It takes a bit of guesstimation and adjustment to get the rod dialed in to what position, the electrode, the length of cables, etc you are using at that particular time. That, of course, is one of the reasons “ditch boxes” are so highly coveted, because you can adjust the fine current [rheostat] on the fly. If your machine ONLY welds on either 0 or 100 on the rheostat, it’s time to ohm it out, clean it, and diagnose why it’s not working properly, if that’s the case. You should, after you pick the right “gear”, be able to dial in the correct amperage setting with the dial. Hope this helps, and thank you for the idea about a future video.
I just picked up a Hobart welder and the engine is seized. I pulled the starter out and put a bar on the flywheel and it would not move any guidance you can give me would be appreciated
Hi Jon, hope you can get her loosened up - I've heard a lot of folks will pull the plugs and dump some marvel mystery oil down the holes and let it sit a few days. You might need to take the radiator end of the machine off to get at the front of the engine properly. I would be careful forcing a stuck L134 because if it's something in the valve train that's [also] stuck, it's very easy to start to press a valve guide out. It might be necessary to pull the water pump and timing cover off to remove the timing chain if you suspect something in the valve train is holding it up. Taking the head off to inspect the damage might be prudent. I did a rebuilding series on this machine - it's a good idea to heat the head nuts up red hot and let them cool and work some oil in them so you don't accidentally snap a head stud. After heating them red hot, they should come right off. Good luck!
@@Convoycrazy thank you very much for the info. I watched your videos on yours and I wish mine was running but I can't be that lucky haha.
Thankfully there are many resources out there now for the go-devil engine regarding parts and knowledge because of the vintage jeep crowd etc. They even make new blocks. There's not much there that can't be fixed as long as the Hobart side of the machine is still in good shape!
@@Convoycrazy I can't seem to find anything for my model online. It's a GAD-3020 10k ac 250 amp 100% duty cycle DC 300 amp 100% duty cycle
I'm sure that I will have a bunch more questions for you in the future. If it's okay with you I would like to send you a friend request on Facebook
I have a 1946 Hobart I don't know if it's a 6 volt or a 12 volt can you shed some info it's a jeep flathead 4 cylinders
Hey Travis! So your 46 is definitely going to be 6V unless it was converted over to 12 at some point. It’s very common, through the decades, for someone to have converted it over. If everything is original, it will be 6V. Side note, I got my new 6V coil at Autozone, it was very affordable (it was like $14 or $20) and they had one on the shelf. You might want to clean off the engine generator tag and double check, it’ll say 6 or 12V output, originally 6 but someone may have put a 12V generator on it. Further, if someone put an alternator on it instead of a generator, it’s most likely been converted to 12V.
@@Convoycrazy thank you very much! That was very helpful!! Loved the video also
I appreciate that! I’d love to see your machine sometime if you get around to taking any videos of it.
Where's the aircleaner???
Welp Dave, that’s the only thing that was missing, I’d planned on welding up a nice custom oil bath for it, I have one laying around here somewhere to modify. I really shouldn’t be running it with nothing at all over the snout. You got a sharp eye!