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Just wanted to say I didn't believe this at first but was getting tired of my 60 gallon charging every 2-3 days with leaky teflon so I tried it. The blue threadlocker actually worked for my main shutoff and my drain valve. Thanks for the video!
I was doing some repair work on my air compressor a couple of weeks ago and I needed to position some of the components in specific orientations (regulator, filter, etc.) and somehow lock them in position. I couldn’t do that using pipe dope or Teflon tape. I couldn’t find any commercial pipe sealers that would both seal and lock in position. Then I thought, I have some blue, semi-permanent Loctite that might work. I tried it and it worked great. Curious as to whether anyone else had used Loctite to seal air fittings, today I searched UA-cam and found your video which happily confirms my positive experimental results! Hooray for blue Loctite!
Exact same issue here. New check valve needs to be in a precise orientation which prevents tightening all the way down. Teflon tape isn’t enough and pipe dope just bubbles out when under pressure. Going to try the loctite blue and cross my fingers I won’t have to redo the assembly again any time soon.
In my experience, I've quit using brass fittings on air compressor fittings. I've had several crack, and so I've only used steel connectors for years, with no more leaks from cracked fittings. I enjoy your videos, keep them coming!
Thanks so much for this video! I purchased a pressure/vacuum tester for my small engine work and it came with the needle of the gauge not centered correctly. Took it apart and adjusted the needle to the correct neutral position. Then I started searching for the best sealant to replace the factory solid white substance. I figured I'd have to purchase something specific to air systems. After an hour of finding all sorts of different suggestions for various Loctite and other products I stumbled onto your video, which specifically addressed air pressure systems. Cleaned the threads, generously applied Loctite Blue 242 (who doesn't already have that in their shop?) over all but the bottom two threads, threaded on the gauge but only screwed it down until it was snug and then let it sit overnight. Tested it out this morning after 12 hours and the gauge is holding pressure and vacuum perfectly after ten minutes! Who knew 242 was an air tight sealant as well as a thread locker? Thanks!!!
Awesome Rein!! Glad it worked out. I use this on all of our air misting systems now too and it's solid. No issues. Good to know it works in a vacuum as well! Thanks for the email as well. Cheers!
Your Loctite tip fixed all my leaks today. I was replacing all the components on my compressor system. Unfortunately, the regulator valve and it's four 1/4" outlets were made from a cast metal (not machined, cheap I know). No amount of teflon tape, pipe goop, or torque would stop the leaks. I found this video and tried the tip. NO MORE LEAKS! I didn't even have to tighten the components very tight. Thank you!
I tried everything as you have with the tape, pipe dope n permatex sealant. Nothing worked but this damn blue thread locker worked 100%. NO MORE LEAKS...woo hoo!! My air horn tank finally holds all the air.
Good for you (and good for us) that you actually made the effort to not add to all the misinformation on UA-cam. I, for one, applaud your effort. So many DIY videos are titled "tutorials" when they are nothing more than somebody documenting their first try at said task. So, thank you!
I literally never give a thumbs up, or down. I haven't even tried it yet, but definitely an issue that needs solved. Based off what everyone stated in comments and what u said, I believe you and sent u the thumbs up;). Better be good!
I use gasoila soft set thread sealant on all my fittings. Air and water lines. Never have leaks. Only draw back is that it can be messy, but the more you do the better you get at it.
Wow, yeah like you and every other DIY'er / contractor / construction worker I have fought compressor leaks and units kicking on way before they should actually need it. I have a small shop in my back yard that I use as basically a base of operations. From that small shop, really a converted barn style shed that's 16' × 20', I do almost everything a general contractor does as well as small engine repair, auto mechanics, landscaping, and home maintenance, repairs and remodels add more for my three vehicles, my daughters and her boyfriends two trucks and my mom's SUV and her husband's truck, my home, my mom's home, several of my mom's friends, some of my friends as well as pick up odd jobs (generally while shopping at Home Depot or Lowe's). It's enough work that I really should have a place with a couple bays for mechanics as well as a few bays to set up woodworking tools that would stay set up and a large open area for tool storage and assembly. But you work with what you got. It's very crowded and I have to move tools out to the yard to be able to work in the shop as well as up work with anything that has any length. No way I'm ripping any sheet goods in my shop. The table saw is in a collapsible cart and can be rolled out in front of the shop to be used. Basically the radial arm saw and the 12" sliding compound miter saw, drill press and combination belt sander/disk sander stay set up and everything else is made due and find a way even if needed. I need about 4-5 times the space. I have been working on plans to expand the shop and upgrade the electrical as well as install air lines overhead and a dust management system. I currently have a vertical 20 Gallon Husky compressor that I bought used and have had to do a significant amount of work on. Things like replacing the belt, replacing the head relief valve, replace the pressure switch, replace the supply line from the piston to the tank, and basically pull all the threaded connections then clean, wrap with yellow Teflon for natural gas. I'm looking forward to updating the compressor like you did and running the overhead main line with drop downs on a spring to allow then to remain pulled up and out of the way until needed along with installing a auto wind house reel at each end of the shop and another right outside in the little room I built to keep the compressor in so that I don't jump out of my skin every time it kicks on while I'm focused on something else completely. So when I run all my overhead lines and install the reels I run be sure to use the thread lock like you used in the video. I honestly have never seen a compressor install that didn't leak and waste the rest of the day and sometimes even into the next while chasing down leaks and trying to get them to stop. It's generally a nightmare and frequently the leaks include the connections made by the manufacturer. And the more complex your compressed air system is the more leaks there are. And not chasing them down and fixing them well only leads to a unit that needs to be replaced a lot sooner due to all the extra work it's logging. Sealing off leaks and a head pressure relief valve can really extend the life of a compressor. Thanks for making this video. I'm ready to get into running these lines. I just hope I don't get ahead of myself. But a leak free system is something to get excited about when you have been in this as long as I have. I'm almost 50 and I started working on my dad's woodshop when I was 4. Granted it was sweeping and picking up screws and nails he had dropped and gathering trash. But by the time I started kindergarten we had already built a boat and out a 25×40 addition on the trailer we lived in. Then by the time I hit the 6th grade my parents had bought 2 houses and my brothers and I were always free labor. So we were remodeling houses after school and on weekends. Growing up in a woodshop made me want nothing more than to have one of my own. It took till I was 45 to finally get one. But I have it, and having as good air supply system is mandatory. Especially when using compressed air for as much as I do. Using air impacts, ratchets etc are almost a must have when working on vehicles as much as I do. That impact can pull nuts and bolts a lot faster than I can and it doesn't feel like it's been hit by a truck the next morning.
I have never had an issue with a good name brand PTFE pipe dope or teflon tape. The blue monster tape is by far my favorite. Over 25 yrs as a diesel mechanic and welder/fabricator and there's no way I'd put loctite on brass fittings.
Your probably putting it on wrong direction... threads to the right wrap over top n tight and rest assure at night your shits air tight!! Usually do 3 to 4 wraps!!
244 to 333 Lbs °2 in and I have been fighting leaky connections for a month...a!most bought loktite the other day. Thanks for this video hope it helps me
When air couplings start leaking all you can do is replace them. Don't buy the cheap ones, they don't last long. The Milton A type last for years and don't leak.
I usually use Teflon tape and have had no issues. I would recommend using enough wraps of tape that the threads almost disappear. Like 6 to 10 wraps. But loctite is a great alternative. I believe they make a thread sealer specifically.
Ahh that’s a good tip. I don’t usually wrap that many times. If I needed a quick fix I will definitely use Teflon. I have so many rolls now since i can’t seem to toss anything away these days. Lol. Thanks Andrew!
Throwing this into the mix re: cons against tape There are times when fumbling around with the taperoll n a cramped location, between assemblies, and hard to reach areas is just not possible.
That doesn't work. It makes the fitting to tight and you can't get it started, so it unwraps the tape no matter which direction you wrap. You must be using some insanely cheap stuff. Good tape should take 2 or 3 max and then pipe seal and no issues
You can also use Loctite 545 as it is an actual air and hydraulic thread sealant. Plus, it easier to take things back apart later since it isn't a thread locker.
Great ideaa, only thing I saw that might be a negative to some is your quick disconnect, I hate those that you have to push in the lock before you can insert the male end on your hose
Permatex high temp thread sealant is the only sealant you will ever need. I know this ain't a high temp application but it hold up to 10,000 psi, easy enough to disassemble, let's just say it's a all in 1 engine building sealant. Good for pressure, oil , coolant. What ever you throw at it. Blue loctite is more of a thread locker than sealer which permatex hight temp is both. No matter what you use the main key would be to let it fully dry that is if it's strong enough to begin with which blue loctite is on the iffy side to me.
I was a field technical rep for Ingersoll Rand Industrial for 30 years. Best stuff I ever found was Hillside Industries Leak Lock sealant. Worked on air, oil, water and never had a leak. Damaged fittings could be sealed by applying the stuff, tightening the fitting and waiting overnight for it to cure.
We had an Ingersoll Rand factory in my home town of Rockford IL. Ever been there? When I was shopping for air compressors I looked at a few from them. DeWalt got my money mostly because of specs and reviews but this IRs look really nice. Can you buy that Hillside sealant anywhere these days?
@@HouseMadeUS I THINK, it might be this. I was trying to find it also but i could only find highside instead of hillside. www.highsidechem.com/leaklock.php. I don't see how to purchase though. Wish i would have seen this video last night. I was up til 2am trying to install a shut off valve on mine. With thread tape i tightened so hard it eventually broke the fittings. Bet i tightened and tested 50 times. Always slightly leaking.
Another thing I'd suggest is to turn your manifold to point down and put a support bracket on the tube there. The vibrations and weight of the hoses will eventually cause you problems. Overall good setup though, you definitely won't regret moving up to the bigger compressor. Don't forget to occasionally drain the valve on the bottom of the tank to get the water out from condensation. I put a remote hose and ball valve on mine because it's just a pain to get to the little drain valve they come with. Cheers
I appreciate your advice. Is your hose clear so you can see if there is water in there? That would be a nice feature too. Ill look into whats needed to make that happen on my end here. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@HouseMadeUS mine is not clear, I typically just open the ball valve once a week or so. Basically all you should need is a 1/4 npt elbow, 2 hose barbs that fits whatever size you are using (I just use old 3/8 airline), and a small ball valve (I prefer one with a longer handle so I can just use my foot to open and close). Then just use an insulated hose clamp, zip tie or whatever to secure the end by the ball valve and you can open and close with your foot whenever needed. It's just simple security for the health of your tank because we all know, if that valve isn't easy to get to, then we aren't going to drain it LOL. Before I did this mod, I couldn't remember the last time I drained the tank. Then we moved houses and I drained a few gallons of water out.
@@HouseMadeUShey i have the same problem where im using airbags in my car. And i have 2 elbows that need to line up but if i tighten them both fully they wont line up. Can i use this to seal the threads?
How is it holding up now? Thread lock compound for sealing pressure is something i am going to do but i am using Red 262 because the other end fits to something else so red is permanently on one end while the other end has a thread on air regulator
I'm so stupendously cheap, to make sure I put enough threadlock on fittings and don't skimp out, I buy Harbor Freight Threadlock No. 42. Just $3 for a 10ml bottle!
Thanks, I had to make a quick edit there. I dug deep into that guy on Google. Needless to say, I cannot be associated with that kind of person. What a shame. There is so much of it out there too. I had no idea. WTF.
Am in the processing of outfitting a mobile tire shop, plumbed all my air lines with PEX and Blue Loctited all threaded connections, the only leak I had was on the Tire Machine(in the machine). Any thoughts on putting the air to it in one hour?
Will this work on DOT push to connect fittings, not the pipe side, but the airline side? Can you put some in the opening before connecting the line to seal it up?
hi, i am facing issue of air leakage from PVC pneumatic fittings at pressure of less than 5 bar, frequency of leackage is high. can you please suggest me how to prevent this loss and any permanenet solution
What's the stuff that comes on the threads at the box stores? I haven't been able to find a good solution that will dry on the bench and allow for installation later. I'd be curious to know!
the only possible problem I see is if you were to leave the filter assembly there is the hazard of gauge blowout. I have used ultra-red permatex to seal my lines for a long time , for like 15, to 20 years with the only time being air shut off is to drain the water vacations without loosing hardly any pressure
I thought about that after watching the video back when I threw 150psi at that filter. A filter I had no idea whether or not was sound. I should have released the air a bit slower. Luckily, all worked out. I appreciate your advice Walter, thanks for joining my channel.
Teflon tape should have a minimum of 3 full wraps and/or use a threaded joint compound, not anti-seize. You can find it in the plumbing section. I never realized that this was a problem for other people,
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Awesome thx!
Just wanted to say I didn't believe this at first but was getting tired of my 60 gallon charging every 2-3 days with leaky teflon so I tried it. The blue threadlocker actually worked for my main shutoff and my drain valve. Thanks for the video!
I was doing some repair work on my air compressor a couple of weeks ago and I needed to position some of the components in specific orientations (regulator, filter, etc.) and somehow lock them in position. I couldn’t do that using pipe dope or Teflon tape. I couldn’t find any commercial pipe sealers that would both seal and lock in position. Then I thought, I have some blue, semi-permanent Loctite that might work. I tried it and it worked great. Curious as to whether anyone else had used Loctite to seal air fittings, today I searched UA-cam and found your video which happily confirms my positive experimental results! Hooray for blue Loctite!
Yes!! 😁💪🏻
Exact same issue here. New check valve needs to be in a precise orientation which prevents tightening all the way down. Teflon tape isn’t enough and pipe dope just bubbles out when under pressure. Going to try the loctite blue and cross my fingers I won’t have to redo the assembly again any time soon.
In my experience, I've quit using brass fittings on air compressor fittings. I've had several crack, and so I've only used steel connectors for years, with no more leaks from cracked fittings.
I enjoy your videos, keep them coming!
I’ll keep ya posted on the brass, I e had a few break also. Thanks for watching Walter. 👊🏻
Thanks so much for this video! I purchased a pressure/vacuum tester for my small engine work and it came with the needle of the gauge not centered correctly. Took it apart and adjusted the needle to the correct neutral position. Then I started searching for the best sealant to replace the factory solid white substance. I figured I'd have to purchase something specific to air systems. After an hour of finding all sorts of different suggestions for various Loctite and other products I stumbled onto your video, which specifically addressed air pressure systems. Cleaned the threads, generously applied Loctite Blue 242 (who doesn't already have that in their shop?) over all but the bottom two threads, threaded on the gauge but only screwed it down until it was snug and then let it sit overnight. Tested it out this morning after 12 hours and the gauge is holding pressure and vacuum perfectly after ten minutes! Who knew 242 was an air tight sealant as well as a thread locker? Thanks!!!
Awesome Rein!! Glad it worked out. I use this on all of our air misting systems now too and it's solid. No issues. Good to know it works in a vacuum as well! Thanks for the email as well. Cheers!
Your Loctite tip fixed all my leaks today. I was replacing all the components on my compressor system. Unfortunately, the regulator valve and it's four 1/4" outlets were made from a cast metal (not machined, cheap I know). No amount of teflon tape, pipe goop, or torque would stop the leaks. I found this video and tried the tip. NO MORE LEAKS! I didn't even have to tighten the components very tight. Thank you!
Oh dude that is awesome! Glad it helped!! 😁👊🏻
I tried everything as you have with the tape, pipe dope n permatex sealant. Nothing worked but this damn blue thread locker worked 100%. NO MORE LEAKS...woo hoo!! My air horn tank finally holds all the air.
Good for you (and good for us) that you actually made the effort to not add to all the misinformation on UA-cam. I, for one, applaud your effort. So many DIY videos are titled "tutorials" when they are nothing more than somebody documenting their first try at said task. So, thank you!
Thank you Sean. These pipes are still leak free. 💪🏻😁
Thanks dude. This is legitimate, so you are too. 💪
- Thank you 🧨🧨🧨
I literally never give a thumbs up, or down. I haven't even tried it yet, but definitely an issue that needs solved. Based off what everyone stated in comments and what u said, I believe you and sent u the thumbs up;). Better be good!
Hahaha! 😂 - guaranteed or your money back! (It really does work)
I use gasoila soft set thread sealant on all my fittings. Air and water lines. Never have leaks. Only draw back is that it can be messy, but the more you do the better you get at it.
In HVAC-R in Denmark, we use Loctite 577. Which is for sealing threads on refrigeration.
Fantastic video. Thank you. You are very professional and super clear when you speak. 😊
Thank you.
Wow, yeah like you and every other DIY'er / contractor / construction worker I have fought compressor leaks and units kicking on way before they should actually need it. I have a small shop in my back yard that I use as basically a base of operations. From that small shop, really a converted barn style shed that's 16' × 20', I do almost everything a general contractor does as well as small engine repair, auto mechanics, landscaping, and home maintenance, repairs and remodels add more for my three vehicles, my daughters and her boyfriends two trucks and my mom's SUV and her husband's truck, my home, my mom's home, several of my mom's friends, some of my friends as well as pick up odd jobs (generally while shopping at Home Depot or Lowe's). It's enough work that I really should have a place with a couple bays for mechanics as well as a few bays to set up woodworking tools that would stay set up and a large open area for tool storage and assembly. But you work with what you got. It's very crowded and I have to move tools out to the yard to be able to work in the shop as well as up work with anything that has any length. No way I'm ripping any sheet goods in my shop. The table saw is in a collapsible cart and can be rolled out in front of the shop to be used. Basically the radial arm saw and the 12" sliding compound miter saw, drill press and combination belt sander/disk sander stay set up and everything else is made due and find a way even if needed. I need about 4-5 times the space. I have been working on plans to expand the shop and upgrade the electrical as well as install air lines overhead and a dust management system. I currently have a vertical 20 Gallon Husky compressor that I bought used and have had to do a significant amount of work on. Things like replacing the belt, replacing the head relief valve, replace the pressure switch, replace the supply line from the piston to the tank, and basically pull all the threaded connections then clean, wrap with yellow Teflon for natural gas. I'm looking forward to updating the compressor like you did and running the overhead main line with drop downs on a spring to allow then to remain pulled up and out of the way until needed along with installing a auto wind house reel at each end of the shop and another right outside in the little room I built to keep the compressor in so that I don't jump out of my skin every time it kicks on while I'm focused on something else completely. So when I run all my overhead lines and install the reels I run be sure to use the thread lock like you used in the video. I honestly have never seen a compressor install that didn't leak and waste the rest of the day and sometimes even into the next while chasing down leaks and trying to get them to stop. It's generally a nightmare and frequently the leaks include the connections made by the manufacturer. And the more complex your compressed air system is the more leaks there are. And not chasing them down and fixing them well only leads to a unit that needs to be replaced a lot sooner due to all the extra work it's logging. Sealing off leaks and a head pressure relief valve can really extend the life of a compressor.
Thanks for making this video. I'm ready to get into running these lines. I just hope I don't get ahead of myself. But a leak free system is something to get excited about when you have been in this as long as I have. I'm almost 50 and I started working on my dad's woodshop when I was 4. Granted it was sweeping and picking up screws and nails he had dropped and gathering trash. But by the time I started kindergarten we had already built a boat and out a 25×40 addition on the trailer we lived in. Then by the time I hit the 6th grade my parents had bought 2 houses and my brothers and I were always free labor. So we were remodeling houses after school and on weekends. Growing up in a woodshop made me want nothing more than to have one of my own. It took till I was 45 to finally get one. But I have it, and having as good air supply system is mandatory. Especially when using compressed air for as much as I do. Using air impacts, ratchets etc are almost a must have when working on vehicles as much as I do. That impact can pull nuts and bolts a lot faster than I can and it doesn't feel like it's been hit by a truck the next morning.
Do you have a youtube channel? I love the professional grade home-shop content and would watch.
I have never had an issue with a good name brand PTFE pipe dope or teflon tape. The blue monster tape is by far my favorite. Over 25 yrs as a diesel mechanic and welder/fabricator and there's no way I'd put loctite on brass fittings.
I don’t know what I’ve done wrong, but Teflon always seem to leak for me. Thanks for watching. 👊🏻
Your probably putting it on wrong direction... threads to the right wrap over top n tight and rest assure at night your shits air tight!! Usually do 3 to 4 wraps!!
yea i doubt you guys even bother to see if air pressure stays in a diesel tank for 5 days you just dont hear and leaks and send it out good nuff
244 to 333 Lbs °2 in and I have been fighting leaky connections for a month...a!most bought loktite the other day. Thanks for this video hope it helps me
Good to know. Now we need to know how to resolve leaky QC on the tools and hoses.
Yeah those quick connect fittings love to leak after a while. I think replacement is the ticket.
When air couplings start leaking all you can do is replace them. Don't buy the cheap ones, they don't last long. The Milton A type last for years and don't leak.
I usually use Teflon tape and have had no issues. I would recommend using enough wraps of tape that the threads almost disappear. Like 6 to 10 wraps. But loctite is a great alternative. I believe they make a thread sealer specifically.
Ahh that’s a good tip. I don’t usually wrap that many times. If I needed a quick fix I will definitely use Teflon. I have so many rolls now since i can’t seem to toss anything away these days. Lol. Thanks Andrew!
Throwing this into the mix re: cons against tape
There are times when fumbling around with the taperoll n a cramped location, between assemblies, and hard to reach areas is just not possible.
That doesn't work. It makes the fitting to tight and you can't get it started, so it unwraps the tape no matter which direction you wrap. You must be using some insanely cheap stuff. Good tape should take 2 or 3 max and then pipe seal and no issues
Thanks for the tips! I’m about to try myself!
You can also use Loctite 545 as it is an actual air and hydraulic thread sealant. Plus, it easier to take things back apart later since it isn't a thread locker.
That's true, but 242 pulls double duty. I can use it for both instead of buying additional products.
Great ideaa, only thing I saw that might be a negative to some is your quick disconnect, I hate those that you have to push in the lock before you can insert the male end on your hose
You're right about those connectors. They are a pain.
Loctite 545 made for pneumatic/hydraulic=the best
⚡️⚡️⚡️ I’ll have to give thst a shot! Thanks! ⚡️⚡️⚡️
Thanks for the video, I can finally seal my leaky lines!!!!! How do you route a line trough a wall or drywall????
Permatex high temp thread sealant is the only sealant you will ever need. I know this ain't a high temp application but it hold up to 10,000 psi, easy enough to disassemble, let's just say it's a all in 1 engine building sealant. Good for pressure, oil , coolant. What ever you throw at it. Blue loctite is more of a thread locker than sealer which permatex hight temp is both. No matter what you use the main key would be to let it fully dry that is if it's strong enough to begin with which blue loctite is on the iffy side to me.
Excellent info. Thank you. I just pulled this apart yesterday to add a solenoid and it was still air tight. I'll look into the permatex. Thanks again.
Fixed my problem!
Never thought about that. Gonna try it soon cause I have some leaks
Thanks Rob. It really works.
Best solution for sealing good job
Thank you! Having coffee, working on the next one. :)
@@HouseMadeUS yeah hard to wait 4 it
More like House Music,
Will try the Loctite, but first have to epoxy paint the inside of the tanks.
Loctite also sells thread sealer sticks that work fantastic
Really??? Haha, that makes sense I guess. This blue stuff works wonders though.
The blue as a stick definitely works even better than the liquid. Vibratite VC3 is better than both.
Thank you
You're welcome
Very nice i love your channel, i use loctite 577 its the best solution for me, best regads from austria ;)
Thanks Thomas, I appreciate that. Cheers from Florida. 👋
@@HouseMadeUS that pleases me too, sorry i mean loctite 577 not 572 (I have touched it up ;) loctite 242 is olso a good sealing.
Okay great thank you.
I was a field technical rep for Ingersoll Rand Industrial for 30 years. Best stuff I ever found was Hillside Industries Leak Lock sealant. Worked on air, oil, water and never had a leak. Damaged fittings could be sealed by applying the stuff, tightening the fitting and waiting overnight for it to cure.
We had an Ingersoll Rand factory in my home town of Rockford IL. Ever been there? When I was shopping for air compressors I looked at a few from them. DeWalt got my money mostly because of specs and reviews but this IRs look really nice. Can you buy that Hillside sealant anywhere these days?
@@HouseMadeUS I THINK, it might be this. I was trying to find it also but i could only find highside instead of hillside. www.highsidechem.com/leaklock.php. I don't see how to purchase though. Wish i would have seen this video last night. I was up til 2am trying to install a shut off valve on mine. With thread tape i tightened so hard it eventually broke the fittings. Bet i tightened and tested 50 times. Always slightly leaking.
@@HouseMadeUS Amazon sells it. Was going to do Loctite, but the Hillside has great reviews and is reasonably priced.
Use loctite 567 thread sealant. It can hold up to 10,000 psi
I'll check it out.
well done!
Thank you sir!! 💪🏻😁
Another thing I'd suggest is to turn your manifold to point down and put a support bracket on the tube there. The vibrations and weight of the hoses will eventually cause you problems. Overall good setup though, you definitely won't regret moving up to the bigger compressor. Don't forget to occasionally drain the valve on the bottom of the tank to get the water out from condensation. I put a remote hose and ball valve on mine because it's just a pain to get to the little drain valve they come with.
Cheers
I appreciate your advice. Is your hose clear so you can see if there is water in there? That would be a nice feature too. Ill look into whats needed to make that happen on my end here. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@HouseMadeUS mine is not clear, I typically just open the ball valve once a week or so. Basically all you should need is a 1/4 npt elbow, 2 hose barbs that fits whatever size you are using (I just use old 3/8 airline), and a small ball valve (I prefer one with a longer handle so I can just use my foot to open and close). Then just use an insulated hose clamp, zip tie or whatever to secure the end by the ball valve and you can open and close with your foot whenever needed.
It's just simple security for the health of your tank because we all know, if that valve isn't easy to get to, then we aren't going to drain it LOL. Before I did this mod, I couldn't remember the last time I drained the tank. Then we moved houses and I drained a few gallons of water out.
Great advice. That's the same thing we do with our compressors on the tugs I work on.
@@HouseMadeUShey i have the same problem where im using airbags in my car. And i have 2 elbows that need to line up but if i tighten them both fully they wont line up. Can i use this to seal the threads?
@shanoemichael4439 yeah I would give it a try. Or try the Loctite thread seal stuff.
The compressor looks awesome. It'll be awhile before I'm able to drop that much on a good one. For now, I'm having to go the cheap route.
Yeah it took me 20 years to get this beast. I love it. Hope you’re well Ron.
I am doing well. Thanks the thought and thanks for being on UA-cam.
I put some fittings together with epoxy.
I wonder if this will work with push connectors lol always having some type of air link with them
How is it holding up now? Thread lock compound for sealing pressure is something i am going to do but i am using Red 262 because the other end fits to something else so red is permanently on one end while the other end has a thread on air regulator
Still solid and sealed. I even moved this entire system across town and the pipes didn't need to be redone 👍🏻
@@HouseMadeUS Do u think 262 will hold better for 200 bar of pressure?
Great video. Where did you get the rubber hose off the compressor?
How long does this solution work for?
I’ve had mine up and running like this for 5 years.
I'm so stupendously cheap, to make sure I put enough threadlock on fittings and don't skimp out, I buy Harbor Freight Threadlock No. 42.
Just $3 for a 10ml bottle!
Good tip! Thank you!
Whether we can use this for nitrogen line ? Or any suggestion for nitrogen leak prevention in pipe fittings and hose joints.?
Yeah this should work for any line up to 150 PSI.
So after 2 years... how did it hold up over time?
Still very solid, no leaks and survived a move to a new shop.
can you do a video replacing the hose on a retracing reel? id be willing to send mine to be rufrbished
Nice again
Thanks, I had to make a quick edit there. I dug deep into that guy on Google. Needless to say, I cannot be associated with that kind of person. What a shame. There is so much of it out there too. I had no idea. WTF.
@@HouseMadeUS i know
Am in the processing of outfitting a mobile tire shop, plumbed all my air lines with PEX and Blue Loctited all threaded connections, the only leak I had was on the Tire Machine(in the machine). Any thoughts on putting the air to it in one hour?
Do you really need to let it set overnight? what about a couple hours for the loctite to dry?
Give it a shot. I just like to wait to make sure but you're probably right.
I would read the directions. Just saying.
did you let it cure? if so how long??
Actually it cures pretty quick. 20mins or so. I like to leave it overnight just to ensure it's solid. Works every time.
Can you suggest any fast curing product??? Because in breakdown time we don't get enough time for curing..
Will this work on DOT push to connect fittings, not the pipe side, but the airline side? Can you put some in the opening before connecting the line to seal it up?
hi,
i am facing issue of air leakage from PVC pneumatic fittings at pressure of less than 5 bar, frequency of leackage is high. can you please suggest me how to prevent this loss and any permanenet solution
Follow what I do in this video. Thank you.
what do you recommend for stopping air leaks on two pieces rims between barrel(aluminum) and lip(steel) kind of a silicone or something else ?
Dissassemble. Clean. And i know guys that use 3m window weld as a sealant
Isn't that air compressor loud compared to the craftsman ?
Actually they are similar
I thought a correct Loctite product for this was 545? Or maybe 565?
Yeah for sure. But 242 is actually loctite and can be used for multiple purposes. 😁👍🏻
What's the stuff that comes on the threads at the box stores? I haven't been able to find a good solution that will dry on the bench and allow for installation later. I'd be curious to know!
I believe it’s locktite but it’s the paste version.
If people use the Teflon tape correctly then it won’t leak. Would not use loctite.
Can you still put teflon tape as a redundancy? Thanks!
I do not do that. No need for it. Thank you.
@@HouseMadeUS Thank you very much!
the only possible problem I see is if you were to leave the filter assembly there is the hazard of gauge blowout. I have used ultra-red permatex to seal my lines for a long time , for like 15, to 20 years with the only time being air shut off is to drain the water vacations without loosing hardly any pressure
I thought about that after watching the video back when I threw 150psi at that filter. A filter I had no idea whether or not was sound. I should have released the air a bit slower. Luckily, all worked out. I appreciate your advice Walter, thanks for joining my channel.
what is the part number of permatex red locktite? Thanks
sorry I miss wrote it is called "High Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket #81160 "
why do you need to filter the air?
the formula is allegedly -1 psi for everty degree or ten degrees dropped i forget..
You use pipe dope on it, not loctite. Or teflon tape.
Teflon tape should have a minimum of 3 full wraps and/or use a threaded joint compound, not anti-seize. You can find it in the plumbing section.
I never realized that this was a problem for other people,
Teflon tape doesn’t work at these PSIs. It’s a very common issue.
It works at 3000psi for high side of Compressed gas cylinders.
Good to know it can work
# 1 Лактайд хороший фиксатор резьбы, не знал что его можно использовать как герметик... 👍👍👍🇷🇺
Да, это действительно работает. Просто убедитесь, что вы не используете постоянный вид.
Good vid.....Bad tunes..
I see this but I don't believe any of it.
You put the teflon tape in the wrong direction.
Buddy you using waaay to much lock tite