Repairing a Leaking Air Compressor Regulator | California Air Tools
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- Опубліковано 8 чер 2024
- Today, we're going to stop and fix the regulator in my California Air Tools compressor. It has recently started leaking, and causing the entire downstream system to overpressure. We should do something before it explodes.
Stuff appearing in this video:
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
California Air Tools Ultra Quiet 2HP Compressor (Amazon*): amzn.to/2TQ926q
Knipex Pliers Wrench 3-Piece Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/2ruzS8m
Aventor 8" DPS IP54 Caliper (eBay*): ebay.to/37y1Tg3
Astro Pneumatic Air Gun (Amazon*): amzn.to/3oB5uE9
00:00 Intro
02:22 Documentation
03:09 Disassembly
05:33 Cleaning
10:57 Reassembly
14:21 Testing
Raw Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
The red ring is a lock but for the bigger red knob to lock the pressure at a certain point. They’re basically useless in my experience. Lol. Great video as always! Cheers
I always thought it was for the free-floating model when you’re panel-mounting it. Like a lock nut on a switch. Feed it from the back, use that ring to secure it.
@@mr_voron Pretty sure you're correct. The ring has a flat back to fit against a panel.
I came to comment on that but Jason beat me to it. Tho I don't think they're useless. In some cases the vibrations of the compressor or around it could cause the regulator knob to vibrate out (happened on mine, tho mine is cheaper chinesium one).
I just installed a regulator today and used the ring as a panel mount / bracket mount. I had to make sure the bracket was not too thick so the red ring would not interfere with the pressure setting knob but otherwise it worked fine.
^That ^ i was gonna say the same thing
You may want to pick up some plastic o-ring picks, there's less risk of marring a part than a copper or stainless pick. We use them extensively for scuba regulator overhauls.
I love your comment when the clamps dropped away, I felt a moment of connection there as that is more my workshop experience over your meticulous practice. Thank you James for including that and the whole video on having a go at fixing that leaky problem.
4:50 I'm so happy to see you using hemostats! They've been a part of my toolkit since the eighties. Even got questioned by a police officer about why the tips are burned. ('Cause it's better than burning my fingers when soldering or holding something else hot.)
The red ring is there to be a conversation piece and elicit opinions from viewers in the comment section of the video.
Like this one.
Thanks for the video!
You win the comment section for today.
It was really exciting whether or not the spring would jump out, luckily the video itself wasn't too tense. Thanks James for not bringing too much entertainment.
Very instructional video. Straight to the point. 👍
Nice to see you're able to perform under pressure
Great video very well done
I love your dry humor!
I had the same leak on my fortress (harbor freight) air compressor and this fixed it. The knob on mine comes off a little different than yours but cleaning the parts fixed my leak. Thanks for sharing!
I think that the red ring is a locking nut for the knob.
It's for panel mounting to tighten it down against the panel.. not needed in this case since California made such oversized holes.
@@kylefritch1928 Exactly right. And California made such a huge hole because the regulator gauge assembly comes in to final assembly all put together, and they did not want to bother taking off the adjustment knob to mount the regulator with the ring.
@@kylefritch1928 nope. It's a lock nut. It's to lock against the knob.
I have this same make. I really like it, as it's quiet enough to have in the garage yet not drive me out. That said, it did something once that caused me to never trust it to "just run". Once, as the tank pressure dropped off, the compressor TRIED to start but just sat there, stalled, drawing who knows how much power, and it was only a few months old. It hasn't done it since, but now I can't trust that it won't blow a breaker - or catch fire.
thanks !!! Really enjoyed!
I like your interpretation of the Blondi Hacks clenched fist.
Oooh, I look forward to seeing that. I was just checking to see if Quinn got a mention for the intro comedy, too... and also, wondering whether James has long been doing those, or if I'd just failed to make the connection previously? But that definitely felt like a Blondihacks intro. :)
I like to put my toolbox right under the part I’m working on so when I drop the tools they just go back home .. lol 😆
My Briggs & Stratton 074027-00 air compressor was doing the same as yours, same problem with the flat rubber washer in the regulator. I replaced it with a small O-ring and it works fine again. Your video helped me quickly find the problem.
When you dropped those C Clamps I was worried for your safety, but then saw that you were wearing your Chinese safety boots, so I was very much relieved. :)
Yeah... No problem. Anything that falls in will fall right back out.
@@Clough42 yes you make a very valid point! 😂
🤣
Thanks for sharing 👍
Nice repair James..your back in business
nice and thanks!
I figured you'd us an acid brush or something fro cleaning to get every nook and crannie. Thats what I use for funky parts. I keep a regular acid brush and a couple trimmed to different lengths for sequentially more aggressive cleaning.
Oh, that's a good idea. I wish I'd thought of it.
good job
Text book repair - good result.
I have the same compressor. Mine has a slightly different O ring on the white plastic diaphragm piece. It's U shaped with the open part facing the inside of the regulator. On mine there was enough clearance between the diaphragm and housing that the U seal rolled over and started passing air out the regulator.. I simply machined an aluminum replacement cap for the diaphragm and removed the valve. Flow more air that way. I never use the regulator. No air leak, compressor will hold pressure easily for a few days. Most of the leak is from hose and nozzle.
great timing, mine just started doing this and i think it might be the same problem!
Harold Waters (ARW) had something similar happen, and the overpressure burst something in his system.
About 2 years ago, after 6 months of research I bought the slightly smaller version. It’s a good, quiet compressor.
Good video, have problem with Dewalt.
Hi James, the red ring is a locknut as noted by numerous others.
However, you cleaned everything in the regulator but neglected the over pressure safety valve. If you have enough gunge in the system to cause the regulator to malfunction you should also check the safety valve. It's right there on the manifold. It should also come out and be cleaned. It could be frozen closed which could lead to overpressure of the tank etc. Safety first when it comes to high pressure air .
Thanks for the video.
Regards from Canada's banana belt. 👍🇨🇦🍌🇺🇦🕊️🤞
Probably worth checking. Though the gunk won't build up on the side that would block it from working.
That is the same design as my new compressor. The regulator leaking past the 95 psig setting is what blew up my desiccant system. My compressor was only a few days old when it blew up the desiccant container so I guess they are all dirty inside. Thanks for an interesting video.
Yeah. Your experience was the inspiration for my thumbnail. That's scary.
Very timely, my big industrial compressor has a small craftsman regulator on it must be over 30 years old, just started leaking like this… but I didn’t notice the over set pressure.. but was planning on disassembling it soon to see what was up….
I spotted your assembly error.
You said to put it "pointy end down", but Every time I watch Tim the Everyday Astronaut he says it must be "Pointy end up", the "Flamey end down".
Very good point. Hopefully there will be no flamey end at all, but you never know...
The small red ring is a lock nut to stop the nob from turning once you have set the pressure.
I have a 16 year old Dewalt compact compressor that has a leaking regulator. Wasn't sure if it was time to replace it or not. Looks like I'll have to look inside and see what I find.
Good fix!!! Shop maintenance….I use a electric Red Top solenoid to open the tank pressure to the shop lines….damn unit is requesting maintenance (again)….LOL
I probably shouldn't just leave the system pressurized, but I do.
What sealant do you use on the threads when you have to replace something on the compressor like pressure switch or gauge or some other threaded fitting? Loctite 545?
Clean it like you mean it! I like your timer/stopwatch. You got a model or source for it?
The one I bought is now unavailable, but this is similar, if not identical. a.co/d/4wgoCcq
I think the red ring prevents you from turning the knob in to far an making the pressure go to high.
I had a pretty serious look at these style of compressors when looking to upgrade to a 'serious' shop level compressor vs an oil-lubed variant. I wasn't so concerned with noise since where it's going will be noisy anyway, but my experience with oil-less compressors has been mixed at best. This style does seem to offer something I hadn't tried yet and may be better for it in the long run (as I understand them, they have serviceable parts unlike most any direct drive oil free units at the big box stores), but the thing that held me back was the relatively unproven duration of how long they can run high volume air. In comparing them to more proven oil-lubed variants, it seems the motors in these are reluctant to run longer durations on a large reserve tank in the 20-30 gallon range without thermal break cycling. The more you look around at the mid-tier range, these little twin cylinder 'quiet' versions are popping up more and more, which made me try to chase down who actually made them. It never panned out trying to find a definitive source, but they all looked exactly the same and came from China; big surprise, right.
Anyway, curious to people who own either this CAT brand or the other variants what kind of 'mileage' they've gotten out of them when pushing air hog type tools, vis-a-vis plasma cutters and the like.
CAT has different models. Some are rated to run continuously for something like 30 minutes (don't remember exactly), and some are rated to run continuously. Mine is the former.
Well, at least it appears to be a cheap fix, has it been holding up ok over time?
I think that plastic piece under the knob is to prevent you from adjusting the air to high. Maybe they didn't know where the top side of the adjustment was going to put it so they added the rings after the fact. No idea for sure. Just a theory and I'm always down to provide some engagement. :p
When setting the pressure regulator, you set it to the desired psi while the tool is running. Different tools have different air requirements and should be set individually. But since it is a small compressor and you probably aren't running big air hog tools, you can usually set it a little high at around 95-100 psi and it will drop close to 90 psi when in actual use.
I'm not generally running air tools from it. Mostly just blow guns, pneumatic cylinders, and mist coolant systems, which regulate down to much lower pressures, so it doesn't really matter.
ahh regulators , the rubiks cube of the pneumatics world.
Hi!
You seem very knowledgeable! Are you available to help me get our California air tool compressor?
Interesting, I might do that to my compressor. Before I became fully paranoid about pressure vessels I picked up an 11gal 3hp (allegedly) compressor for about $40 at a flea market, but it's definitely leaking at least at the regulator. I couldn't really bear to buy a new one for an old pressure vessel. That said, the hydro testing pump (like Quinn uses for boilers) costs double what I paid for the compressor. I can't decide if it's better to get it and test both compressors, etc, or just buy a new one with an aluminum tank if possible, to forever ease my rusty tank terror.
Or move to the desert, where there is barely enough moisture to rust anything. :)
@@Clough42 now you're thinking outside the box 🤣
¿Por que no los dos?
Here's a vaguely related question that's bugged me a long time - every"portable" (whether hand-carried or roll-around) compressor/tank combo I've ever seen, has the super heavy part on top of the light empty part. It's like the goal is to make it as tippy as possible, and also harder to change the pump oil.
I'm guessing there's a good reason, but I don't get it. I don't think the cooling airflow past the pump would be affected much either way. The pump might heat up the tank a little, but the air in it is hot already.
Am I missing something?
If the compressor were on the bottom, it would eventually fill up with condensed water.
@@Clough42 But could still be easily drained.
Mine is 10020 and yours is 10020C, my internal M14 is not plastic but brass. I cleaned as well but no luck. before I clean each air release cause 10psi down won't recover, after cleaning each caused 5psi down and max is 90psi. the red ring limits max psi now I tend to remove it. I think my regulator never works.
What kind of compressor is that, two stage piston or something else? Seems too quiet for pistons.
haven't seen you run your cnc mill in a long time
More projects than time.
Hey James, I also have a California Air Tools Compressor, though a different model. I once destroyed a part trying to remove it off the compressor. When I call the manufacturer they told me they use Red Loctite on the fittings. WTF!!! I got some new parts and installed them with some Teflon tape so that I will be able to remove them in the future. Not sure why in the world they would do something like that. Ciao, Marco.
The stuff on the drain valve didn't look red, and it was gummy. But it sure was tenacious. It felt like it was galled, and I thought I was tearing out the threads removing it.
I was thinking that plastic ring is something for the knob to seat against when fully tightened rather than rubbing on the cast metal valve body. I don't actually know, just guessing.
Are California compressors really quiet?
I have been Considering one of those compressors for about a year now to replace my 15 year old current unit. Are they as quite as Advertised? Belt drives are traditionally more quiet than direct drive. I cannot stand how loud those little job site pancake compressors are.
It's way quieter than a typical hardware store compressor.
I have lived my entire life with compressed air leaking (My dad's compressors and whatnot all leaked)... Until I got my new IR compressor, and after making sure all tapered pipe thread fittings had pipe dope on them and were properly tightened, I had my first ever compressed air system with no leaks. I just leave the compressor switched on even overnight and it holds air, granted if something ever starts to leak overnight I guess I may have a big electricity bill.
Also hoping for fewer issues with leaks since I have a cooler and water air separator on the compressor outlet, should prevent rust and debris from causing any valves to leak, though I should probably add inline filters somewhere.
That said some of my quick fittings are leaking and I leave the ball valve turned off most of the time. Need to sort that out.
I do the same, and worry about what might happen if I have a catastrophic leak when I'm gone.
I think .. it would be nice to plumb in shop air and have a couple of drops where you need them.
It's a shame that compressor has issues, it looks like a pretty good quality unit.
In fact, I do have this plumbed into a shop air system, with drops in five locations.
@@Clough42 Very cool. Someday I might do the same, not there yet.
What happened to ring spanners? The ring is to lock the pressure regulator knob.
That would also be an option. I'm not sure I have one in 30mm, though.
@@Clough42 You should.
@@WillemvanLonden more tools I don't have. You're right. I need to fix that.
Strange my piston had a u-cup type seal, not an o-ring.
I need to buy a piece like this but I don't know the name, can you help me?
What about the tank pressure in the red zone ?
The red zone is a feature of the valve, and doesn't appear to have anything to do with the tank rating.
Curious why is the other gauge in the red?
The red means nothing. The tank operating pressure is in the range marked red in whatever import pressure gauge they sourced. That probably isn't optimal.
I have never seen a pressure regular like that .. isn’t there are spring and diaphragm..
👍👏👏👏
The regulator would not need cleaning as often, if an air filter was installed between it and the tank, but it has to be installed after the relief valve.🙂
👍👍😎👍👍
I had the exact same compressor. Mine was leaking the day I took it out of the box. I think my leak was different than yours. It would slowly lose air, and if you left it overnight, the tank would be empty. I tried fixing it and was not able to. Reading the Amazon comments, a lot of people had the same or similar issues. I kept it for a year because it was too much of a hassle to pack it up and lug it down my stairs to return it, and it worked well enough for my limited use. I ended up gifting it to someone that bought a small Taig desktop CNC from me. I never wanted to see it again. Just a garbage product, IMO. Stay away.
Mine leaked from day one, also. The issue was the drain valve. I called them, and they sent a replacement, which was difficult to replace due to the incredibly sticky sealant they used, but it's been fine ever since.
@@Clough42 so yours broke twice then. Once out of the box and once for this video. It’s a poor product.
hi james do you actually get any work done? looks like you are always yak-shaving! 🤣
I think the spring pressing against the high-pressure rubber valve wants to tip slightly. They're relying on the spring to hold an alignment of the valve, which is not 100% reliable.
I think all the "quiet technology compressors are the same, may or may not be built in the same factory. Your CAT is almost identical to my Makita, which is almost identical to my Harbor Freight. They make pretty good air for their HP, and the quiet is priceless.
That right there is what we call a C.A.R. (cheap ass regulator... and yes, I made that up). That thing is junk. You can find much better at McMaster Carr or even Amazon. I bought a set from Amazon few months ago and it came with a hp air filter, good regulator, and a regulated air filter. I noticed that your tank air gauge was right at redline (120 psig). I hope the working pressure of the tank is 1.5x the redline pressure.
I agree. Pretty much every part looks cheap to me. Also having the regulator integrated with the manifold just makes it more difficult to throw throw the whole regulator out and replace it with something else. If the special (not quite an oRing) was really needed in the future that could be a pain if California Air isn't around anymore to supply it. Would rather have a regulator, safety valve, gauges, manifold, etc plumbed together with standard fittings. I considered California Air, but glad I didn't buy from them.
The redline is nonsense. Probably just whatever was printed on the import valve. The manual says the working pressure switch is preset to 125psi.
That relief valve is in a terrible location, pointed directly at you. They should have put it pointing down.
its a lock ring
Air leak
Pretty basic stuff; the black hose is just on a nipple-if you reefed on it, it might let go, otherwise, cut the black hose just past the nipple (like 1/2") since there is plenty, and when replacing, put some lube in the hose to press it back over the nipple. (me thinks)
I don't think so. I think it's some kind of compression fitting. The hose has a ridge molded into the end of it.
Be honest. How many times did you think to yourself, "ok. Now just blow the gunk out of that with a squirt of compressed air....doh. The air compressor is currently not working(down/off/etc) duh." It is moments like that, that cause us to realize exactly how much we rely upon each tool. :~)
More than once. :)
You for sure could have use som compressed air to clean it 😂😂😂😂😂😂
The ring is for mounting the regulator on a panel/mount
This is the correct answer. Your regulator is mounted on the manifold So the red ring is not necessary on a panel mount just have a hole to put the regulator through and tighten the red ring to hold it in place
There’s your problem right there, it’s right on the label, commifornia.
Flip flops in the shop? Dude. You need to be wearing proper footwear. Crocs are safety rated. 😬
I was tempted to buy one of these due to the low noise. I watched More non sponsored videos, nothing but junk.