This video makes me feel like I am back in high school. The step by step instructions give me the feeling of confidence needed to attempt a project like this. I am sure I am not the only one who will become a bee keeper because of these two videos.
It's after following your videos that brought my interest in beekeeping,I made my own bee hive as you always suggest in your videos,thankyou for your videos
I've been a woodworker about 40 years longer than I've been a beekeeper and this is the best woodworking video I've ever seen to include those by Norm Abram. Great work! Thanks!
Cheers for this, been searching for "beehive making instructions" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Tiyia Beehive Basophilic - (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? Ive heard some awesome things about it and my brother in law got cool success with it.
Great video! My wife and I just decided to get into beekeeping after watching my uncle take care of his bees on our vacation to Colorado. Now back in Michigan, I'm glad I found this amazing video so I can get started building a hive or two to save some money starting in this rewarding hobby. Thank you so much for posting this very informative video!
These videos are literally the best content I've seen as far as making beekeeping equipment. This took the fear out of trying it on my own, thank you so much!
Well this video has saved my butt, currently started to try make my own frames , top bars cut to length with dato groom for foundation width and thickness, side bars are now my challenge. I don’t have the correct size drill bits to go off so I’ll cut some wood measured spaces instead and use those, I love the box jig that slides along the fence you have there I got to make one of these it’s a very handy piece to work with. 👍
I'm new tryin too learn all I can .live in tide country.Been a carpenter for 30 years .think I build a hive my self lots cheaper...thank for the help ..keep up great work
Next week (March 10 & 11, 2017), the Michigan Beekeepers are having their annual spring conference in East Lansing. Well worth the time; best gathering of beekeepers in the midwest and probably the country. I'll be there presenting a class. More info at the MBA website... michiganbees.org
Instead of a band saw to make the lower section of the side bar, I use a jointer. I put a stop block on the fence so it goes the right distance. The small angled shoulder ends up being a little concave due to the round jointer blade, but this hasn't been any problem for me. One pass on each side is all it takes. I also joint one side of the bigger block before ripping them off the 2x6 on the table saw. That way I only have to do one side individually. You could do both sides, but the 2x6 wouldn't sit on the table saw correctly (flat) which isn't as safe.
Thank you for what is probably the best beehive making videos on the internet! Can you post a link to the dimensioned drawing for the frames and hives?
Great video, thank you. Try using the dado blade to cut the lower profile (raise your dado to 1/8" height and have positive stop on the table, make all your lower profiles prior to cutting the side bars to 3/8"....this require moving the fence several times to cut the full width of the 2x6). Also, get a long drill bit and put your 2x6 against a fence at the drill press, drill your holes prior to cutting the 3/8" cuts, saves a lot of individual holes!
I can't direct you to a plan for the tennon jig. The jig, however, is pretty simple to make. It consists of two vertical pieces on either side of the saw's rip guide fence. And two smaller cross pieces; one across the top and another just above the fence. The trick is to get the two cross pieces the right width so that the jig slides snugly along the fence with no wobble. If in doubt, make the jig a wee bit to snug (emphasis on "wee") and then use sandpaper along the vertical piece that slides along the fence. You can also lubricate the jig with bee's wax to make the jig slide smoother and easier.
If you have a planer then your first step is planing your 2x6 down to the finished thickness. You get 160 side bars out of one 2x6x8 so you just saved yourself 160 cuts by planing.
Hello, my name is Brad Oliphant, and I have a question for you. Next year, in NYC, I will be a single hive owner, and am wanting to attempt to mimic a Layens hive by connecting two langstroth hives. If I were to screw two frames together, a deep frame and a shallow frame, then clipping off the sides of the lower shallow frame, would this work out for me? And of course, I would fix together a deep and a shallow box for them to go in. Thank you for your help.
Great video for me until you got to the band saw.. My problem is, that I have no band saw. Any idea how to do the rest without a band saw. I also was kind of surprised when you ripped the side bar to width not controlling the piece in between the fence and blade. But it looks like there was not much of a kick back. I presume I can but the 3 /5/8 on the side with the table saw blade sticking out that far?
The band saw is used for two operations: one trims the side bars to width below the taper and the second cuts the bevel on the end of the top bar. Both can be using something other than a band saw. For the side bar, a jig saw would work as would a table saw or a router. However, the table saw would be somewhat of a hassle and tedious. A jig saw (either electric or hand) would be easier though a bit more time consuming than the band saw. Also, a router (with a router table) would make this operation a snap. For the tapered ends of the side bar, I have lately been using the table saw with the blade rotated about 5 degrees from vertical. Since the top bars are 3/4 inches high, I use 1x stock (such as a 1x8 or even a 1x10). Cut the stock to the length of the top bar (typically 19 inches long) which is Step 20 in the downloadable plans. I then skip to Step 13 and cut the lower dado. Next, rotate the blade 5 degrees to make the beveled cut (on the end). With the board vertical, run the end through the saw (I use the tenon jig since the board will be vertical) making sure the cut starts 7/16ths of an inch from the inside edge and the top of the blade 5/8ths of an inch high. Make the beveled cut on both ends of the board. You can then rip the side bars to width (1-1/16th inch) and go back to complete Steps 11 and 12. I realize that this is hard to follow, but if you look at the plans and work you way through the steps above, you can make the beveled ends with a table saw. And do 3 or 4 to bars (or more depending on the width of the 1x stock you use) at one time. As for ripping the side bar... It is very important to keep the width at 3/8ths of an inch... exactly. So cutting the stock with the blade 3/8ths of an inch from the fence is a way to accomplish this accuracy (and with precision). You are right that this type of cut is subject to kick back. So stand aside when doing so! Using the combo square and drill bit technique to keep the 3/8th in cut on the outside of the blade (and thus avoiding all kick back) also works, but takes a bit more time. Thanks for your comments.
Could you just run the sidebar stock through a thickness planer before you cut the dadoes and ripped them off the blanks into individual sidebars? This would save having to trim each one individually to the correct width.
I used to make my own frames and boxes but then the price of the cedar I was using more than doubled, I could get it a little cheaper, but that meant buying a whole load of cedar, I was using the cedar offcuts from the boxes I was making to make my frames, I then decided to 3D print the sidebars as it works out cheaper, and buy in the top and bottom rails for my own usage, I used to sell some boxes and frames just to other keepers that I know. I know that pine can be used and I think I will try and source some pine at a reasonable price for the rails and continue to 3D print the sidebars. How has the price of the wood risen in your area? I am from England where most things are highly overpriced, when we were in the EU they used to call the UK Treasure Island as they could sell us things at inflated prices.
Great Video!! I now feel comfortable making my own frames. I do have a dado blade question. When your making the side bars you make two passes with your dado blades then on the 3rd dado pass you are removing the waste. What is the width of the dado cut you are using? The table saw I will be using can only make a maximum of a 1/2" dado cut.
Same here, as far as the width goes. I often go with a 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch width cut. I find it easier to make narrower dado cuts, even though it may take a bit more time. If your saw can handle a wider cut, then go for it.
That "yellow" stuff is wax foundation. The picture is actually a bit "yellower" than it actually is in real life. The video describes a wedge type frame which holds the foundation by means of a small strip if wood nailed to the bottom part of the frame. As described in part two of this video series.
The geometry of a honey comb cell is a bit more complicated than a simple hexagonal pattern. I looked into this in some detail when modelling a cell for my 3D printer. There is a very long name for the shape, but it involves the base (back) of the cell. It is not flat but something more along the line of a rhomboid. Basically, three planes angle back to a center point. That point forms a cell wall boundary on the honey comb cell on the opposite side of the comb. (Remember that honey comb has cells on both sides.) If you examine honey comb or commercial foundation, either wax or plastic, you can see this geometry on the bottom of the cells. I, too, was looking for a roller with which to make wax foundation. I came to the conclusion that the cost of such a complicated, precision tool would far exceed the cost of all the foundation I would purchase in several lifetimes.
Hiya its my first time making spare parts for my friends hive and I am a machinist. Since the wooden frames have to be under such stress usage can I sub it by making it out of aluminium instead? Thanks
I make these frames out of #2 pine. Commercial frames are made from pine too. In my experience, bees will nest in just above anything you use. Stay well away from treated wood, however.
NO MORE FOUNDATION 4 ME! Made a guide wedge under the top bar, brush melted bees wax on the wedge. THEY DRAWL IT OUT JUST AS FAST i had a groove down the top bar, so all i did was cut strip 1/8 thick 1 inch wide and 17 inches long! glue and nail it under the top bar best to put 3 small nails in the wedge, weight my break the glue down!
@@mmhbs I hope you got a good deal on it. E-Bay has some good bee supplies Me? i just melt down my bees, wax and filter it out. There many things you can make from bees wax. Candles, lip balms so on and on
9:28 Dimensions of the lumber changes for the top and the bottom. Overall Width on top is 1 and 3/8" Overall width on bottom is 1 and 1/8" The width of the cuts changes with respect to that. The reason, I'd guess, is strength needed at the top and greater space at the bottom so they don't bond the frames together where you can't pry them apart.
Greetings from Puerto Rico, I enjoy seeing your videos, they are very instructive. I was wondering if you could share with me some unasamble frames and beehive if possible, I will be more than willing to pay for shipping fees and I will be more appreciative if you can. Please let me know if you can. Respectfully, Wilberto
This is shown at the end in the credits. The video was created by Steve Tilmann. No closed caption available. Plans available (also shown in credits at end of video) are available from www.michiganbees.org. Search for "workshop" or go to the "Beekeeping" tab.
Good video instruction. Will save me work and accuracy will be better...but, at 70 cents a frame from online, is it worth it? I'd just have to nail the parts together.
Frames are relatively cheap to purchase. Still, the idea of making your own has its attractions. Also, you can make frames that are otherwise not available or hard to find... such as the mini-frame for a mini-nuc.
I have enjoyed your video, I just have to make it simpler. I use hand tools. I do have miter box but it's made out of cast iron to heavy for me to move anymore.
Why don't you download the plans (www.michiganbees.org and search for "beekeeper's workshop") which has all the dimensions. It would be easy to convert them to metric.
can anyone tell me what the measurements are for the plastic foundation.. the reason is i goofed up on some of the side bar measurements .i need to know if they will fit or do start over.. i feel bad enough try not to make it too bad to criticize
For deep frames, the plastic foundation from Dadant is 8-3/8" by 16-3/4". Compare to was foundation which is 8-1/2" by 16-3/4". The 1/8th inch difference in height probably won't make a difference. Best to get some and try it out. Personally, I like the plastic foundation. It is stronger than the wax foundation and doesn't come apart when spinning out the honey. Some beekeepers claim the bees don't draw out the plastic foundation as well as the wax. However, I have not noticed this to be a problem.
Do you have information on installing the foundation on these homemade frames? How simple is it? Some bought ones have slots and such. Please help a newbie.
Johnny R foundation installs exactly the same as commercial frames. I use the "wedge" style option when building the frames since I also use wax foundation. Let me know if I have answered your question.
I went back and watched again and saw how you did it. You have not only have me fascinated with beekeeping but I got my table saw out and made a tenon jig yesterday. Thanks for your excellent videos.
Thank you for the best video in the world. I waited out the video about making framework. I was tormented by one question. Why everywhere The height of the side bar frame is equal to the height of the entire frame. This is a mistake. The height is the height of the entire frame side bar with the addition of (1/2) - (7/16) = 0.0625 inch. Nowhere in the world I could not find clarification on this matter. Also, do not size is set at of the frame and under the frame. Shoulder frame is beveled so it was important to know the size. Not having such a framework, I drew on paper and vymeryat this distance. I received the sad result. If you put the two buildings, then you from the frame to the upper frame is the distance that does not match the bee space. Maybe I'm wrong. Correct me please.
A couple of reasons. One, for most of the grooves and rabbets I use when making beekeeping equipment a dado blade is much easier and faster. Two, not as many people have a router (as compared to a table saw). And I am trying to hit the middle mark. That said, both can do the job, so use whatever you feel comfortable with. For me, I am personally more comfortable with a dado blade than a router.
go to www.michiganbees.org. From the home page, click on the "Beekeeping" tab, then on the "In the Beekeepers Workshop" link on the drop down menu. Link is... www.michiganbees.org/beekeeping/in-the-beekeepers-workshop/
Lots of people think making frames is hard... and it probably is the most challenging of all the components of a bee hive to make. However, if you break it down, step by step, it really is not all that difficult. The trick is to make very accurate cuts. That is why I spend the time in showing you how to do that. And, like almost all aspects of beekeeping, making a good frame is very, very satisfying. Steve
No doubt. A lot of hobby woodworkers don't have a planer, including me. There are times when having such a tool speeds up the job and gives great results. I have purposely tried to work with the tools commonly found in a hobbyist shop. If you have a planer, then you undoubtedly have the skills to use it in our projects to make things go smoother and quicker.
I like your ideas in your wood working but for cutting your top notch in the side bars . It looked like there was A LOT of in needed measuring an cutting that was not needed . You had to many measurements changes an steps WHY not just take your 2”x 6”x ?’ Long board an run it thru a plain to get your correct size . Then put a stack set blades in your saw an do ONE CUT . Then while you have your stack blade set on you can cut your bevel or your bottom part of your side bar . To make those cuts all is needed is to just lower your blade an then you can start cutting each of your side bars an no ban saw is needed . Just a thought. Thanks
There are many different ways to work with wood. That is one reason why it is so satisfying. I didn't use a plane because it is not that common of a tool in a hobbyist's workshop. And I don't have one. If you can see a different way to the end results then go for it.
I don't have a planer to do the job! A secondary consideration is that most people viewing the video don't have this tool either, so I wanted to provide instructions on how to accomplish the task with the most common tools. However, the main reason for me is the first one.
@@beekeepersworkshop you can rip it to 3/32 inch greater on your band saw and then use a hand plan to finish the sizing, along with a shop made edge squaring table for the hand plane called a shooting board. A sharp chisel can be used for the 45 cut on the piece.
In a word... yes. All the rest of the hive components have some room for measurement errors. The frames are different in this respect. It is far easier to have the frames be built to spec than struggle later when things don't fit right. That is why we give some tips on how to set up your saw down to a 32nd of an inch. Take your time. Measure twice and you won't be dissapointed in the results.
This video makes me feel like I am back in high school. The step by step instructions give me the feeling of confidence needed to attempt a project like this. I am sure I am not the only one who will become a bee keeper because of these two videos.
It's after following your videos that brought my interest in beekeeping,I made my own bee hive as you always suggest in your videos,thankyou for your videos
I've been a woodworker about 40 years longer than I've been a beekeeper and this is the best woodworking video I've ever seen to include those by Norm Abram. Great work! Thanks!
I used to love watching Norm and his projects on the TV, he was a true woodworking genius.
Sir your explanations and instructions are awesome. Thank you.
God bless you, we would have nothing without bees and people like you, great video.
Hands down the best beehive construction videos on the web. Well done and thanks!
K. Miche
Cheers for this, been searching for "beehive making instructions" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Tiyia Beehive Basophilic - (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? Ive heard some awesome things about it and my brother in law got cool success with it.
Great video! My wife and I just decided to get into beekeeping after watching my uncle take care of his bees on our vacation to Colorado. Now back in Michigan, I'm glad I found this amazing video so I can get started building a hive or two to save some money starting in this rewarding hobby. Thank you so much for posting this very informative video!
I'm not a beekeeper yet, but a woodworker, and I appreciated the thorough and well planned instructions in your video.
Beautifully done. I would never have attempted to make the frames but will certainly be giving it a go now. Well done
Well Done and a very comprehensive and understandable explanation of how frames are made. Outstanding Video! Thanks again!
An absolutely wonderful tutorial. You are a good teacher. Clear and understandable. Thank you good work.
Best instruction video I have seen so far in my research on beekeeping. Thank you for taking the time to pass along your information.
These videos are literally the best content I've seen as far as making beekeeping equipment. This took the fear out of trying it on my own, thank you so much!
Bless you SIR, this is among the very best presentations on any subject on UA-cam. Many Thanks.
Well this video has saved my butt, currently started to try make my own frames , top bars cut to length with dato groom for foundation width and thickness, side bars are now my challenge. I don’t have the correct size drill bits to go off so I’ll cut some wood measured spaces instead and use those, I love the box jig that slides along the fence you have there I got to make one of these it’s a very handy piece to work with. 👍
Steve, thanks so much. Beautifully presented. Great resource for the handy beekeeper. Most appreciated
Well done, easy to understand thanks.
Thank you for producing these videos for beekeepers. I loved the magically appearing tool on the counter behind you at about 8:13 in the video.
Very wonderful video. I wish all bee equipment making have diagrams like this
I'm new tryin too learn all I can .live in tide country.Been a carpenter for 30 years .think I build a hive my self lots cheaper...thank for the help ..keep up great work
Great video with wonderful instructions.
Absolutely the best instructional video on youtube!
Great Job! I'm going to talk about your UA-cam Channel Today!
Wow, What a Good teacher! . Thank you Sir.
Amazing valuable details , great experience for the love of bees
bob from Alabama
You make it seem so easy. Great video.
here in michigan as well. starting beekeeping this year. going to start hive building next week, thanx for the videos.
Next week (March 10 & 11, 2017), the Michigan Beekeepers are having their annual spring conference in East Lansing. Well worth the time; best gathering of beekeepers in the midwest and probably the country. I'll be there presenting a class. More info at the MBA website... michiganbees.org
wish i could go, i'm in saint clair county a bit of a drive for me
Great instructions, great technique thanks for the video excellent!
I just got a commission to build a hive, and this is very helpful for my plan. Now just to find a metric diagram
the best videos congrats. well done a thumbs up for you sr.
YES!!!! FINALLY!!!!! the last part of a hive is covered!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wooo Hoooo!!!!!!!!
Instead of a band saw to make the lower section of the side bar, I use a jointer. I put a stop block on the fence so it goes the right distance. The small angled shoulder ends up being a little concave due to the round jointer blade, but this hasn't been any problem for me. One pass on each side is all it takes. I also joint one side of the bigger block before ripping them off the 2x6 on the table saw. That way I only have to do one side individually. You could do both sides, but the 2x6 wouldn't sit on the table saw correctly (flat) which isn't as safe.
I was thinking a shaper with a stop block. Would give a nice tight radius to that transition if you use a small bit (not sure how important that is)
Thanks for putting this together. A lot of work.
Quite true.
If you have a surface planer it makes it so easy.
These are great videos. I can tell you are also a fan of New Yankee workshop.
Thank you for what is probably the best beehive making videos on the internet! Can you post a link to the dimensioned drawing for the frames and hives?
www.michiganbees.org/beekeeping/in-the-beekeepers-workshop/
Great video, thank you. Try using the dado blade to cut the lower profile (raise your dado to 1/8" height and have positive stop on the table, make all your lower profiles prior to cutting the side bars to 3/8"....this require moving the fence several times to cut the full width of the 2x6). Also, get a long drill bit and put your 2x6 against a fence at the drill press, drill your holes prior to cutting the 3/8" cuts, saves a lot of individual holes!
Good suggestions. Steve
BRILLIANT ! Thanks. Where do I find the plans to make the Tennon jig?
I can't direct you to a plan for the tennon jig. The jig, however, is pretty simple to make. It consists of two vertical pieces on either side of the saw's rip guide fence. And two smaller cross pieces; one across the top and another just above the fence. The trick is to get the two cross pieces the right width so that the jig slides snugly along the fence with no wobble. If in doubt, make the jig a wee bit to snug (emphasis on "wee") and then use sandpaper along the vertical piece that slides along the fence. You can also lubricate the jig with bee's wax to make the jig slide smoother and easier.
@@beekeepersworkshop Thank you so much.
If you have a planer then your first step is planing your 2x6 down to the finished thickness. You get 160 side bars out of one 2x6x8 so you just saved yourself 160 cuts by planing.
I use a jointer to plane down the wood block to the correct thickness first, no need to trim all the individual side bars.
Thank you for making it easier you rock and hello from Canada
I can most likely use a jig saw to trim the lower section of the bar correct ??? I don't own a band saw and am trying to reduce tool costs.
Hello, my name is Brad Oliphant, and I have a question for you.
Next year, in NYC, I will be a single hive owner, and am wanting to attempt to mimic a Layens hive by connecting two langstroth hives. If I were to screw two frames together, a deep frame and a shallow frame, then clipping off the sides of the lower shallow frame, would this work out for me? And of course, I would fix together a deep and a shallow box for them to go in.
Thank you for your help.
Great video for me until you got to the band saw.. My problem is, that I have no band saw. Any idea how to do the rest without a band saw. I also was kind of surprised when you ripped the side bar to width not controlling the piece in between the fence and blade. But it looks like there was not much of a kick back. I presume I can but the 3 /5/8 on the side with the table saw blade sticking out that far?
The band saw is used for two operations: one trims the side bars to width below the taper and the second cuts the bevel on the end of the top bar. Both can be using something other than a band saw. For the side bar, a jig saw would work as would a table saw or a router. However, the table saw would be somewhat of a hassle and tedious. A jig saw (either electric or hand) would be easier though a bit more time consuming than the band saw. Also, a router (with a router table) would make this operation a snap.
For the tapered ends of the side bar, I have lately been using the table saw with the blade rotated about 5 degrees from vertical. Since the top bars are 3/4 inches high, I use 1x stock (such as a 1x8 or even a 1x10). Cut the stock to the length of the top bar (typically 19 inches long) which is Step 20 in the downloadable plans. I then skip to Step 13 and cut the lower dado. Next, rotate the blade 5 degrees to make the beveled cut (on the end). With the board vertical, run the end through the saw (I use the tenon jig since the board will be vertical) making sure the cut starts 7/16ths of an inch from the inside edge and the top of the blade 5/8ths of an inch high. Make the beveled cut on both ends of the board. You can then rip the side bars to width (1-1/16th inch) and go back to complete Steps 11 and 12.
I realize that this is hard to follow, but if you look at the plans and work you way through the steps above, you can make the beveled ends with a table saw. And do 3 or 4 to bars (or more depending on the width of the 1x stock you use) at one time.
As for ripping the side bar... It is very important to keep the width at 3/8ths of an inch... exactly. So cutting the stock with the blade 3/8ths of an inch from the fence is a way to accomplish this accuracy (and with precision). You are right that this type of cut is subject to kick back. So stand aside when doing so! Using the combo square and drill bit technique to keep the 3/8th in cut on the outside of the blade (and thus avoiding all kick back) also works, but takes a bit more time.
Thanks for your comments.
Could you just run the sidebar stock through a thickness planer before you cut the dadoes and ripped them off the blanks into individual sidebars? This would save having to trim each one individually to the correct width.
The blades are not that thick
F 7
Thanks for sharing these tricks of the trade, although it took a good eight minutes before we really got started!
I used to make my own frames and boxes but then the price of the cedar I was using more than doubled, I could get it a little cheaper, but that meant buying a whole load of cedar, I was using the cedar offcuts from the boxes I was making to make my frames, I then decided to 3D print the sidebars as it works out cheaper, and buy in the top and bottom rails for my own usage, I used to sell some boxes and frames just to other keepers that I know.
I know that pine can be used and I think I will try and source some pine at a reasonable price for the rails and continue to 3D print the sidebars.
How has the price of the wood risen in your area? I am from England where most things are highly overpriced, when we were in the EU they used to call the UK Treasure Island as they could sell us things at inflated prices.
Beekeeper
parabens você tirou umas duvidas para mim !vou assistir a 2 parte !
Hallo Beekeepersworkshop wat voor gele tafelzaag gebruikt U is deze een DEWALT ?
hola buenos tardes
Puedes decirnos cuáles son los ingredientes que hacen cera para ellos, gracias
can we buy ready made wood or already cut materials?
Great Video!! I now feel comfortable making my own frames. I do have a dado blade question. When your making the side bars you make two passes with your dado blades then on the 3rd dado pass you are removing the waste. What is the width of the dado cut you are using? The table saw I will be using can only make a maximum of a 1/2" dado cut.
Same here, as far as the width goes. I often go with a 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch width cut. I find it easier to make narrower dado cuts, even though it may take a bit more time. If your saw can handle a wider cut, then go for it.
@@beekeepersworkshop I can dado up to 7/8" but still follow what you do. Easier on the saw! And besides,, what's the rush!
What is that yellow colour for the frame? Is it plastic net or metal? How it is attached to the frame
That "yellow" stuff is wax foundation. The picture is actually a bit "yellower" than it actually is in real life. The video describes a wedge type frame which holds the foundation by means of a small strip if wood nailed to the bottom part of the frame. As described in part two of this video series.
I use a planer to take it to 1 3/8 saves a lot of time.
Just subscribed, you mention there are downloadable plans to go with your video i cant find a link to buy them
Thanks for the clear and nice explanation.
if i wanted to make my own foundation how i would get a hexagonal pattern first and then make the mold is this the correct procedure
The geometry of a honey comb cell is a bit more complicated than a simple hexagonal pattern. I looked into this in some detail when modelling a cell for my 3D printer. There is a very long name for the shape, but it involves the base (back) of the cell. It is not flat but something more along the line of a rhomboid. Basically, three planes angle back to a center point. That point forms a cell wall boundary on the honey comb cell on the opposite side of the comb. (Remember that honey comb has cells on both sides.) If you examine honey comb or commercial foundation, either wax or plastic, you can see this geometry on the bottom of the cells.
I, too, was looking for a roller with which to make wax foundation. I came to the conclusion that the cost of such a complicated, precision tool would far exceed the cost of all the foundation I would purchase in several lifetimes.
how can I get all those tools are you using pls???🙏
is there any plans?
Great video! Very detailed.
Hiya its my first time making spare parts for my friends hive and I am a machinist. Since the wooden frames have to be under such stress usage can I sub it by making it out of aluminium instead? Thanks
Aluminum? I suppose so. Wood frames generally hold up quite well .
where could i get the blueprints for this project and beehive
www.michiganbees.org/beekeeping/in-the-beekeepers-workshop/
Reply
thanks for your great videos
great video
Excellent tutorial.
Thank you for the video great job..
Very good clip. Does it have to be a particular wood? I've heard it that bees will only nest in cedar wood . Your video clips are excellent.
I make these frames out of #2 pine. Commercial frames are made from pine too. In my experience, bees will nest in just above anything you use. Stay well away from treated wood, however.
Yes !Excellent !(sory i speak french and arabic)
NO MORE FOUNDATION 4 ME! Made a guide wedge under the top bar, brush melted bees wax on the wedge. THEY DRAWL IT OUT JUST AS FAST i had a groove down the top bar, so all i did was cut strip 1/8 thick 1 inch wide and 17 inches long! glue and nail it under the top bar best to put 3 small nails in the wedge, weight my break the glue down!
Just a top bar right?
@@mmhbs yep under the top bar on a frame ~ Be sure to coat the wedge with melted bees wax with a brush. 2 or 3x . Its ready to draw comb
@@426superbee4 Just ordered my bees wax. 😁
@@mmhbs I hope you got a good deal on it. E-Bay has some good bee supplies Me? i just melt down my bees, wax and filter it out. There many things you can make from bees wax. Candles, lip balms so on and on
I must've missed that part... can someone please explain why the dado cuts are different? as why one is 1/4"" and the other 3/8"?
9:28
Dimensions of the lumber changes for the top and the bottom.
Overall Width on top is 1 and 3/8"
Overall width on bottom is 1 and 1/8"
The width of the cuts changes with respect to that. The reason, I'd guess, is strength needed at the top and greater space at the bottom so they don't bond the frames together where you can't pry them apart.
Greetings from Puerto Rico,
I enjoy seeing your videos, they are very instructive. I was wondering if you could share with me some unasamble frames and beehive if possible, I will be more than willing to pay for shipping fees and I will be more appreciative if you can. Please let me know if you can.
Respectfully,
Wilberto
Who is the original creater of this video?? If this is CC please tell me so I can find the plans
This is shown at the end in the credits. The video was created by Steve Tilmann. No closed caption available. Plans available (also shown in credits at end of video) are available from www.michiganbees.org. Search for "workshop" or go to the "Beekeeping" tab.
Good video instruction. Will save me work and accuracy will be better...but, at 70 cents a frame from online, is it worth it? I'd just have to nail the parts together.
Frames are relatively cheap to purchase. Still, the idea of making your own has its attractions. Also, you can make frames that are otherwise not available or hard to find... such as the mini-frame for a mini-nuc.
I’ve been using your videos since making my first hive. Just finished my fifth. Awesome instructions. Are you still into beekeeping?
Yes. I particularly like working with the mini-nucs. Do it every spring.
I have enjoyed your video, I just have to make it simpler. I use hand tools. I do have miter box but it's made out of cast iron to heavy for me to move anymore.
Actual process start at 8:20.
Where are the downloadable plans?
I so wish this would have been in metric too.. i dont have the drillbits in those dimensions here..
Why don't you download the plans (www.michiganbees.org and search for "beekeeper's workshop") which has all the dimensions. It would be easy to convert them to metric.
can anyone tell me what the measurements are for the plastic foundation.. the reason is i goofed up on some of the side bar measurements .i need to know if they will fit or do start over.. i feel bad enough try not to make it too bad to criticize
For deep frames, the plastic foundation from Dadant is 8-3/8" by 16-3/4". Compare to was foundation which is 8-1/2" by 16-3/4". The 1/8th inch difference in height probably won't make a difference. Best to get some and try it out. Personally, I like the plastic foundation. It is stronger than the wax foundation and doesn't come apart when spinning out the honey. Some beekeepers claim the bees don't draw out the plastic foundation as well as the wax. However, I have not noticed this to be a problem.
Do you have information on installing the foundation on these homemade frames? How simple is it? Some bought ones have slots and such. Please help a newbie.
Johnny R foundation installs exactly the same as commercial frames. I use the "wedge" style option when building the frames since I also use wax foundation. Let me know if I have answered your question.
I went back and watched again and saw how you did it.
You have not only have me fascinated with beekeeping but I got my table saw out and made a tenon jig yesterday.
Thanks for your excellent videos.
Thanks very much.Ftom Kenya
good video i m a wood worker with a shop and want to get into bee keeping
Thank you for the best video in the world. I waited out the video about making framework. I was tormented by one question. Why everywhere The height of the side bar frame is equal to the height of the entire frame. This is a mistake. The height is the height of the entire frame side bar with the addition of (1/2) - (7/16) = 0.0625 inch. Nowhere in the world I could not find clarification on this matter. Also, do not size is set at of the frame and under the frame. Shoulder frame is beveled so it was important to know the size. Not having such a framework, I drew on paper and vymeryat this distance. I received the sad result. If you put the two buildings, then you from the frame to the upper frame is the distance that does not match the bee space. Maybe I'm wrong. Correct me please.
is there a reason you are using a dado instead of a router?
A couple of reasons. One, for most of the grooves and rabbets I use when making beekeeping equipment a dado blade is much easier and faster. Two, not as many people have a router (as compared to a table saw). And I am trying to hit the middle mark. That said, both can do the job, so use whatever you feel comfortable with. For me, I am personally more comfortable with a dado blade than a router.
I think dado, as well!I was curious!
Where can I download the plans for this?
go to www.michiganbees.org. From the home page, click on the "Beekeeping" tab, then on the "In the Beekeepers Workshop" link on the drop down menu. Link is... www.michiganbees.org/beekeeping/in-the-beekeepers-workshop/
beekeepersworkshop thanks!
ماشاء الله عليك
gamal
وشكرا لك اخي
Very nice
Me also I want to kbe a bee keeper but I thin its hard to make a frame
Lots of people think making frames is hard... and it probably is the most challenging of all the components of a bee hive to make. However, if you break it down, step by step, it really is not all that difficult. The trick is to make very accurate cuts. That is why I spend the time in showing you how to do that. And, like almost all aspects of beekeeping, making a good frame is very, very satisfying. Steve
We have a planer it cuts out a lot of steps.
No doubt. A lot of hobby woodworkers don't have a planer, including me. There are times when having such a tool speeds up the job and gives great results. I have purposely tried to work with the tools commonly found in a hobbyist shop. If you have a planer, then you undoubtedly have the skills to use it in our projects to make things go smoother and quicker.
I like your ideas in your wood working but for cutting your top notch in the side bars . It looked like there was A LOT of in needed measuring an cutting that was not needed . You had to many measurements changes an steps WHY not just take your 2”x 6”x ?’ Long board an run it thru a plain to get your correct size . Then put a stack set blades in your saw an do ONE CUT . Then while you have your stack blade set on you can cut your bevel or your bottom part of your side bar . To make those cuts all is needed is to just lower your blade an then you can start cutting each of your side bars an no ban saw is needed . Just a thought. Thanks
There are many different ways to work with wood. That is one reason why it is so satisfying. I didn't use a plane because it is not that common of a tool in a hobbyist's workshop. And I don't have one. If you can see a different way to the end results then go for it.
Thanks so very much!
I wish he lived here, better yet, I wish he was my neighbor.
You can use a #4 plane to take the 1/8 inch off...safer!
Why don't you mill/plane the 2x6 to the correct thickness of 1 3/8" from the beginning and do less math? Less confusion and possible mistakes.
I don't have a planer to do the job! A secondary consideration is that most people viewing the video don't have this tool either, so I wanted to provide instructions on how to accomplish the task with the most common tools. However, the main reason for me is the first one.
@@beekeepersworkshop you can rip it to 3/32 inch greater on your band saw and then use a hand plan to finish the sizing, along with a shop made edge squaring table for the hand plane called a shooting board. A sharp chisel can be used for the 45 cut on the piece.
Do all the measurements really need to be that exact? The hives are for honey bees, not carpenter bees. That being said, great job.
In a word... yes. All the rest of the hive components have some room for measurement errors. The frames are different in this respect. It is far easier to have the frames be built to spec than struggle later when things don't fit right. That is why we give some tips on how to set up your saw down to a 32nd of an inch. Take your time. Measure twice and you won't be dissapointed in the results.
@@beekeepersworkshop That was supposed to be funny, but I guess the joke was on me, Sorry
good job
Thanks
thank you sir
I can do the first part with a combination plane faster than you can walk to the table saw from the shop door.
We have a planer makes doing this easy.
No tear out either.
🙏