I operate a tow truck for a living and we get our hammer locks from BA . use them to attach grab hooks, J hooks and snatchbloks to our chains. rollovers, recoveries,winch- outs... They never fail!!. Everyone watching this they are definitely worth it.
I have had a tiny HammerLok tattooed on my arm for over twenty years, such is how handy I find them! - the only tattoo (of all my ink) that I actually did myself…
Hi Bill, thanks for watching and commenting! I agree, with lap links requiring welding and quick links not having the working load limit (for link size), hammer links are the best. The only downside is cost. For the cheapest and no added bulk, lap links are a great and permanent fix, but they need to be squeezed together and welded.
Cold shut is cheaper but not practical for quick disconnect constantly which I want the screw type would be better. Cold shut can be welded all depends what you use them for. I'm just using fir gates on dog crate ir kennel or quick disconnect on various chain leash ends
Could the double clevis be used to extend the safety chains on a travel trailer? The factory safety chains are Grade 43 chain. The double clevis is Grade 70.
Thank you for showing us how the hammerlocks work. Going to install them on my truck hitch. Hope I can get them on relatively easily; i'm sure it's much easier on the bench :)
I came here learning how to use the laplink. Nicole should look a little too weird for me another strong. Put it in the vice and welded it up. Thank you for the video on different methods. I use this to attach a chain to a turnbuckle
And I thank you for teaching me. I am looking for something secure for my yacht mooring. I found that mousing wire is useless, it just unravels, putting my boat at risk. The Hammer-lock looks as though the springs will be eaten up by the ocean. It looks as though I need a straight-through (unthreaded) shackle with a bolt and two locknuts with threadlock.
It sounds like you have it figured out. I have seen some stainless steel Crosby hardware for food grade application, but would also excel in the salt water environment. Thanks for watching!
Have you used shackles (with bolt / nut on both sides + pin by the nut)? Those oughta be fairly reliable, though I wouldn't drag them through the grass either.
The internal threaded sleeve will free spin on the link on some models. On others, it's just not an issue. The manufacturing process keeps the alignment. Thanks for watching!
I don't know for sure. If any are made in the USA, it would be a food grade fastener and cost 125.00 for a 3/8 inch HL (maybe more). The logging supply houses are listing a hammer lock from Asia, and it is very low cost. I wouldn't be afraid to use one and will grab one on my next choker order. Thank you for watching and commenting! Stay safe!!
Hammer lock links are on oil drilling rigs. They are used to attach the spinning chain to the cat head. Grade 10 chain. If I ever use a cold shut, I will use a 3/8" on a 1/4" chain. I will use a 1/2" cold shut on a 3/8" chain. I work in a rough environment. Yesterday I was swapping a log loader from an R model Mack over to an old Mack Super Liner. I'm 52 and have a 3/8 chain with a 1/2 cold shut in it. Been like that over 30 years. We have used log skidders to pull out dozers with that chain. It came out of a card board baker at a store and was two ten foot pieces. So, I bought two Clevis grab hooks and a 1/2" cold shut, and was in business. We had pulp wood trucks at the time. There is another link like the hammer link that has a piece that hammers in the middle with two separate halves. Use them on drilling rigs for spinning chains also. Re usable just like the other one. But, let's say you put a 1/4 cold shut in a 1/4 chain. That is too weak and will not stay. It may work for a personnel barrier chain at a movie theater. Maybe a chain on a gate around a fence post. But I would not expect much. I have personally seen if you use a 3/8 cold shut in a 1/4 chain, I have seen the chain break somewhere else. The split links will work. They are bigger and low grade so be sure to weld inside and out. I can't stress enough the need to up size on your repair if using low grade cold shuts, screw links, split links, lap links. The double Clevis you threw out works good too.
One option you didn't cover is those that you peen over the rivets. I was trying to find a way to connect two stainless chains where they will still run through and anchor windlass and this seems to be the one thing you (or anyone else on youtube) didnt cover.
Tim, it is common for most around here who are using the cold shuts to tack weld them. A good peening would do the trick also. I'm not sure what style of link would properly feed over your windlass though. Thanks for watching and commenting!
![[1244] Schlage Deadbolt OWNED By Lishi Pick/Decoder](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZCbb8ZfHsog/mqdefault.jpg)
I like this guys voice. I wish he could narrate my life, specially when i get into wacky shenanigans
LoL, thank you for watching!
I operate a tow truck for a living and we get our hammer locks from BA . use them to attach grab hooks, J hooks and snatchbloks to our chains. rollovers, recoveries,winch- outs... They never fail!!. Everyone watching this they are definitely worth it.
I'll bet! That's a perfect example of how these hammer locks shine!!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I have had a tiny HammerLok tattooed on my arm for over twenty years, such is how handy I find them! - the only tattoo (of all my ink) that I actually did myself…
Very cool!
Thanks for watching!
Hammer links best invention for chains since the invention of the chain!! Good video!
Hi Bill, thanks for watching and commenting!
I agree, with lap links requiring welding and quick links not having the working load limit (for link size), hammer links are the best. The only downside is cost. For the cheapest and no added bulk, lap links are a great and permanent fix, but they need to be squeezed together and welded.
Cold shut is cheaper but not practical for quick disconnect constantly which I want the screw type would be better. Cold shut can be welded all depends what you use them for. I'm just using fir gates on dog crate ir kennel or quick disconnect on various chain leash ends
Thanks for the info!
Could the double clevis be used to extend the safety chains on a travel trailer? The factory safety chains are Grade 43 chain. The double clevis is Grade 70.
It should be plenty strong enough. To be sure check out the WLL on it.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for showing us how the hammerlocks work. Going to install them on my truck hitch. Hope I can get them on relatively easily; i'm sure it's much easier on the bench :)
Thanks! I think you'll be fine as long as you have something fairly hard to hit on, even a 2x4 would work.
Good luck!!
I came here learning how to use the laplink. Nicole should look a little too weird for me another strong. Put it in the vice and welded it up. Thank you for the video on different methods. I use this to attach a chain to a turnbuckle
Thanks for sharing!
And I thank you for teaching me.
I am looking for something secure for my yacht mooring. I found that mousing wire is useless, it just unravels, putting my boat at risk.
The Hammer-lock looks as though the springs will be eaten up by the ocean.
It looks as though I need a straight-through (unthreaded) shackle with a bolt and two locknuts with threadlock.
It sounds like you have it figured out. I have seen some stainless steel Crosby hardware for food grade application, but would also excel in the salt water environment.
Thanks for watching!
Very Informative !
Thank you!
I appreciate the comment!
Excellent video, well done
Hi Bill and thank you for watching and commenting!
I really appreciate it!
Very informative !
Thank you!
Have you used shackles (with bolt / nut on both sides + pin by the nut)? Those oughta be fairly reliable, though I wouldn't drag them through the grass either.
No I have not tried them yet, but as you say, they would be terrible to drag through the yard and taller weeds.
Thanks for watching!
Great instructional - thanks.
You're welcome!
I use hammer locks on my receiver hitch for my Raptor because hole locations are just ridiculous.
Good idea!
On 7;30 does it matter which way you put that"middle bushing" ?
I bought a set hammerlocks for my f250. I was able to get one installed but the other one is fighting me. The set I have doesn’t have springs.
Paul, if it is a ball detent style you might try spraying some lubricant, even WD40, to loosen the ball detent.
Thanks for watching and good luck!
How are quick links made with the right thread timing
The internal threaded sleeve will free spin on the link on some models. On others, it's just not an issue. The manufacturing process keeps the alignment.
Thanks for watching!
Can the hammer lock use more than one time install and uninstall for many time?...
You sure can!
The high quality ones like in this video has a nice spring loaded snap when you lock it in or out.
Thanks for watching!
Great video, sir. Any Made in USA Hammer Locks you're aware of?
I don't know for sure. If any are made in the USA, it would be a food grade fastener and cost 125.00 for a 3/8 inch HL (maybe more).
The logging supply houses are listing a hammer lock from Asia, and it is very low cost.
I wouldn't be afraid to use one and will grab one on my next choker order.
Thank you for watching and commenting!
Stay safe!!
@kingofbytes: CROSBY and CM (Columbus-McKinnon) are both Made In America. I think each company lays claim to having invented the item quite long ago.
Hammer lock links are on oil drilling rigs. They are used to attach the spinning chain to the cat head. Grade 10 chain.
If I ever use a cold shut, I will use a 3/8" on a 1/4" chain. I will use a 1/2" cold shut on a 3/8" chain. I work in a rough environment. Yesterday I was swapping a log loader from an R model Mack over to an old Mack Super Liner. I'm 52 and have a 3/8 chain with a 1/2 cold shut in it. Been like that over 30 years. We have used log skidders to pull out dozers with that chain. It came out of a card board baker at a store and was two ten foot pieces. So, I bought two Clevis grab hooks and a 1/2" cold shut, and was in business. We had pulp wood trucks at the time.
There is another link like the hammer link that has a piece that hammers in the middle with two separate halves. Use them on drilling rigs for spinning chains also. Re usable just like the other one.
But, let's say you put a 1/4 cold shut in a 1/4 chain. That is too weak and will not stay. It may work for a personnel barrier chain at a movie theater. Maybe a chain on a gate around a fence post. But I would not expect much. I have personally seen if you use a 3/8 cold shut in a 1/4 chain, I have seen the chain break somewhere else. The split links will work. They are bigger and low grade so be sure to weld inside and out.
I can't stress enough the need to up size on your repair if using low grade cold shuts, screw links, split links, lap links. The double Clevis you threw out works good too.
Great information!
Thanks for sharing!
One option you didn't cover is those that you peen over the rivets. I was trying to find a way to connect two stainless chains where they will still run through and anchor windlass and this seems to be the one thing you (or anyone else on youtube) didnt cover.
Tim, it is common for most around here who are using the cold shuts to tack weld them. A good peening would do the trick also.
I'm not sure what style of link would properly feed over your windlass though.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I prefer hammerloks on all my chains and hooks.
I agree 100 percent! The more I use them the more I like them. Plus the built in hinge is a huge bonus!
Thanks for watching!!