Explaining The Cycle Satiator Charger
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- This video will tell you everything you need to know to use your Cycle Satiator charger. You can deep dive further than this if you really want to get into the settings but after years of using this charger, this is everything I've ever had to mess with.
If you fully charge your battery to 4.2 V per cell it's very stressful and your battery might only last a couple years or 300-500 cycles. Lowering that charge voltage to 4 V per cell will over double your charge cycle count over the battery's life giving you 1,200-2,000 cycles.
If you really wanna go crazy I've seen a study that stated 3.92 V per cell can give you up to 4,000 cycles.
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Where can I get the heat sink for my Cycle Satiator charger ?
Have you found one yet?
The "Complete A" function is just setting the current at which your charger stops charging. All CC CV chargers (which is what everyone should be using for Lithium and Lead Acid) do this but not all of them have a programmable shut off current. My EBC-A20 Battery Tester has it for the charge function (it can charge and discharge for cycle testing) but on my bench power supply or my Drok 0-48V 0-10A Variable Voltage Variable Amperage Power Supply I just have to watch the ammeter and stop the charging when the current gets down to 0.05C. Rule of thumb is 5% of the initial charge current is what your cutoff current should be but take a look at the cells datasheet and see what the manufacturer recommends and then work from there. Technically you are in a way overcharging the cells if you choose a value too low but this isn't anywhere near as bad as an overvoltage charging situation.
I think you are a little confused on how trickle start and trickle end work. This is for the rare occurrence the pack you're using has no BMS/failed BMS/or self discharged lower than usual. Trickle Start is the voltage you would absolutely consider the lowest you would want to recover a cell from. Some believe a cell below 2.5V is just DONE. Most people understand that short periods of time down to 0V are recoverable and even long periods of time under 2.5V but above 1V are recoverable. However, time spent in very low voltage increases the chance of a major failure aka FIRE so don't follow my advice here, research this and come to your own conclusions on what you consider the "This pack is done" vs "This pack can be recovered" voltage. In my case I would set Trickle Start Voltage at 1V per cell so for a 36V nominal 10S pack it would be 10V. If the pack is under this I don't even want the charger to do anything because charging an extremely discharged pack even once is dangerous if you are not very very careful. If the pack is at 10V or above but still discharged more than normal it would use the Trickle Amps setting. I would set this absolutely as low as possible unless that current value is less than C/100. 20Ah pack? Charge at 200mA (0.2A). Pack is 800mAh (0.8Ah)? Charge at 0.8mA....well that setting is likely not possible so just go as low as possible but not more than C/10 or 80mA (0.08A). Check the pack often for unusual temperature rise.
Trickle End is the voltage at which you feel the cell has left the overdischarge voltage and reached the normal operating voltage of the cell (2.5 or 2.75 for most, reference datasheet). I prefer to go a bit higher. Once that voltage is reached it will stop charging at the tiny current you were using to recover the cell and begin to charge at the regular charge rate or "Bulk Amps" aka Standard Charge Current on the datasheet. t
The trickle charge feature is definitely pretty nifty. If a Lithium Ion cell is ever discharged below its safe cut off voltage (2.5V or 2.75 referfence cell datasheet) then a significantly smaller precharge/trickle charge current is the proper way to start the charge. Even the little ole TP4056 has this feature built into the IC. I actually bump the max discharge voltage up from 2.5V per cell to 3.0V per cell in my head as I'm never in a rush and feel that there might be some added benefit in giving the cell an easier start if its at say 2.66V instead of just setting it for 0.5C and letting it go. Of course for me this involves manually changing the current as the voltage hits 3.0V but I'm always nearby when charging and check on things every 15 minutes or so. I wouldn't say its absolutely necessary to be that cautious, Lithium Ion isn't quite as bad as RC Lipos (yes, I know they aren't true lithium polymer) but I only trust LiFeP04 to be unsupervised during charging especially because I would never forgive myself if I left the house, a fire started, and my dog died because of me.
This charger has a couple nifty features and might be really convenient for people new to the E-Bike/Lithium world but the price....Man, I can't say in any way that price can be justified. For that price you could get a 3000W power supply that has been modded to have a CC CV LED display and they come in all kinds of voltage and amperage combinations up to 3000W. 0-300V 0-10A to 0-15 0-200A and 3000W is nowhere near the largest PSU in the
The CV charging at the end of the charging cycle doesn't necessarily help the BMS with balancing. No matter what the amperage is going into the BMS, the balance current starts at a either a fixed voltage or its a parameter you can change if you have a Bluetooth BMS. The BMS simply uses resistors to drain current from the highest cells to keep them down to give the lower cells some time to catch up. Unfortunately this often is set at a very high voltage, right at charge voltage cutoff meaning your cells have a tiny balance current (30-60mA is common) for a short period of time. A slow charging current does in a way help as the balance current might be able to make a dent in pulling down the highest cells but balance current is often so terrible that it pretty much sprouted the active balancer boards and the JK BMS with 2A balance current. Some hobby chargers also have much higher balancing current like my ToolKitRC M8S has a 1A balance current....so if the charging has slowed down to 3A, 2A, 1A then the hobby charger will finally have a chance to zero out the current on the highest cells as its only the lower cells moving up to complete the top balance.
Thank you very much for dedicating the time it took to write this. Idk if I’m looking in the wrong places but in my opinion it is HARD to find any info that is reliable, relevant and easily understood.
Oled screens has gone on mine. $68 for a new one posted. I had the charger lose all data loads of times im fed up of the thing keep re setting it. With the screen gone u carnt program or use it.
How did you mount the heatsink?
I used thermal paste after sanding down the top of the charger and bottom of the heat sink.
Can this be used with an EV charging station that's 220v?
Unfortunately I don’t think it does. It does however work on any wall outlet and at 5amps max you don’t need the 220v charging station power. I regularly charge mine at coffee shops.
You don’t need a heat sync on that I have used mine for over 6 years now and it’s never had any issues without one
Same, just bought the higher voltage model.
Can this charge a ebike battery 36volt 400wh
They have a few different versions of this charger and the lower voltage model can. The lower voltage model can also change a lot faster so make sure to know your battery’s max charge amps.
@@ErikKibbee ok thank you
Where did you buy the heatsink?
Hi-Power Cycles sells them or you can find a few options on Amazon.
@@ErikKibbee Thanks !
👍
I bought one it was DOA so I got a refund but was stuck with all the shipping costs 60$ zero stars
Sorry to hear that. Mines been working hard for a couple years now with no issues.
@@ErikKibbee the crappy thing is, I should have bought it through Amazon and I would not have been so bummed out about losing all the money with shipping
@@DriverBuiltholy shit you got a DOA and they left you out $60? Absolute bullshit. That's just bad business right there. If your QC lets a bad unit out the door then your company is responsible for making the customer whole and definitely not trying to shove another unit down their throat?
Did you want another one? Did they offer a replacement with free shipping?
@@ericklein5097
After I shipped it to them $40 they offered to send me another one which I would have taken but their customer service and process left me feeling like I did not want to do business with them so I’m out the money I am out a really cool technology charger.
really surprised about this @@DriverBuilt. would you mind posting a video with the exchange? not that i don't believe you or anything.. just that seems unlike @GrinTechnologies to stiff you