Good install. I did a full audio swap on my bronco with DSP and two amps (video on my channel) however I didnt use the pac harness so I had to wire mine different to get the input signals. Overall the outcome was night and day as that B&O is garbage.
Its a repo release....its designed to allow them to repo it without the key. They pop it or have ford pop it. Then they stick a tool under there to release it. Tow or push. That grommet is to add the Pillar lights. Do you have to unplug the speakers separately when you take the doors now? So you won't have front speakers anymore. Those are delphi pins...i have the part number somewhere. I had to use them to add on my leds on my light bar. That's an Outer Banks with Wildtrak badges... blue inserts, carpet and B&O
Great video!! Lots of good info. Only thing that I would change and this is for the teaching and knowledge your telling others. 1 active wiring to speakers was off and could be confusing. For the readers there's 2 ways to run speaker, passive or active. With component speakers Passive is when you run 1 pos and neg to a speaker and tweeter. Usually a crossover is used to separate the frequencies to each. There's active when using a component set. This means 2 different pos and negs are used. Usually channel 1 and 2 /front left and front right is ran to the tweeters by them self, then channels 3/4 ran to the mid range/ mid bass drivers. A dsp is used to cut off the frequencies each speaker uses. If a dsp isn't used then online crossovers are usually used. Majority of the time it's a dsp. There is a ton a advantages of doing it this way. Can adjust the exact responses each speaker can play and can fine tune each. Also can use time alignment. Where the sound reaches the ears at the same time, etc... 2nd thing I believe the better and bigger the cables (speaker/power/etc) the better flow and performance you will get. I would have ran speaker wire to each speaker. The bronco speaker s Wire is very small I feel that it isn't big enough to run that much power through it.. it's my opinion. I'm also a professional installer @ almost my 25 year mark. Either way it's a great video and I'm about to start my personal 22 wildtrak build. I've gotten great ideas and knowledge I didn't know about the bronco. I've done 7-10 now. Not nearly as many as you. I didn't know the story behind the false amp and sub. First time I saw it I couldn't believe it and laughed..
I have a 23 wildtrak.i have a non B&O eith the sub delete kit. A local genuis was able to remove the fake amp an sub,replace with kicker ,and add a sub knob. All the wiring was there. Hecwent into the program vand turned it on. I replaced the dash speakers to focul,with a tweeter and changed the back pods from 4 to 6 in.and added kickers. What a difference. Now mind you ,i dont have an amp but sofar do good. Great video i learned alot
Our general rule is that if Axxess is the only one that makes an interface, there's a reason, and we find some other way to do it since their products seems iffy on a lot of those kinds of cars. Other than the AXSWC I avoid them. Just did a 2023 a couple days ago and the FD31 worked great.
A local car audio shop said they wouldn’t recommend adding a sub to the rest of the B&O system because there is some sort of sub ramp down that kills the sub volume at higher levels. Any idea about that?
Great video. I have a Lux package Wildtrak that looks very similar, except in Hot Pepper Red. I went and swapped out all the factory speakers except the sub. Without going the A to B route, is there any way to grab a full range signal to amplify some bigger pods in the back? The base system is pretty easy to do so, but B&O seems a pain, given that they cut the lows out of the rears at the head unit. Thanks!
Why in the hell would someone want the speaker in the door. The kick panel is 3" away and you'll never notice a difference, as a matter of fact it will probably sound b wise because the door isn't as solid as the kick panel. I would have told them no...
A local car audio shop said they wouldn’t recommend adding a sub to the rest of the B&O system because there is some sort of sub ramp down that kills the sub volume at higher levels. Any idea about that?
Good to talk to you this morning, thanks for the info on my Bronco, much appreciated. Nice work on the doors.
Good install. I did a full audio swap on my bronco with DSP and two amps (video on my channel) however I didnt use the pac harness so I had to wire mine different to get the input signals. Overall the outcome was night and day as that B&O is garbage.
Its a repo release....its designed to allow them to repo it without the key. They pop it or have ford pop it. Then they stick a tool under there to release it. Tow or push.
That grommet is to add the Pillar lights.
Do you have to unplug the speakers separately when you take the doors now? So you won't have front speakers anymore.
Those are delphi pins...i have the part number somewhere. I had to use them to add on my leds on my light bar.
That's an Outer Banks with Wildtrak badges... blue inserts, carpet and B&O
Great video!! Lots of good info. Only thing that I would change and this is for the teaching and knowledge your telling others. 1 active wiring to speakers was off and could be confusing. For the readers there's 2 ways to run speaker, passive or active. With component speakers Passive is when you run 1 pos and neg to a speaker and tweeter. Usually a crossover is used to separate the frequencies to each. There's active when using a component set. This means 2 different pos and negs are used. Usually channel 1 and 2 /front left and front right is ran to the tweeters by them self, then channels 3/4 ran to the mid range/ mid bass drivers. A dsp is used to cut off the frequencies each speaker uses. If a dsp isn't used then online crossovers are usually used. Majority of the time it's a dsp. There is a ton a advantages of doing it this way. Can adjust the exact responses each speaker can play and can fine tune each. Also can use time alignment. Where the sound reaches the ears at the same time, etc... 2nd thing I believe the better and bigger the cables (speaker/power/etc) the better flow and performance you will get. I would have ran speaker wire to each speaker. The bronco speaker s
Wire is very small I feel that it isn't big enough to run that much power through it.. it's my opinion. I'm also a professional installer @ almost my 25 year mark. Either way it's a great video and I'm about to start my personal 22 wildtrak build. I've gotten great ideas and knowledge I didn't know about the bronco. I've done 7-10 now. Not nearly as many as you. I didn't know the story behind the false amp and sub. First time I saw it I couldn't believe it and laughed..
I have a 23 wildtrak.i have a non B&O eith the sub delete kit. A local genuis was able to remove the fake amp an sub,replace with kicker ,and add a sub knob. All the wiring was there. Hecwent into the program vand turned it on. I replaced the dash speakers to focul,with a tweeter and changed the back pods from 4 to 6 in.and added kickers. What a difference. Now mind you ,i dont have an amp but sofar do good. Great video i learned alot
Killer install as usual brother
Our general rule is that if Axxess is the only one that makes an interface, there's a reason, and we find some other way to do it since their products seems iffy on a lot of those kinds of cars. Other than the AXSWC I avoid them. Just did a 2023 a couple days ago and the FD31 worked great.
Those look killer
@Custom Audio Reimagined - Great Work. Question: With some modification - Could you get an 8" in the left and right kick panels?
A local car audio shop said they wouldn’t recommend adding a sub to the rest of the B&O system because there is some sort of sub ramp down that kills the sub volume at higher levels. Any idea about that?
I have the stinger tail gate sub and I need instructions how to wire an amp to it and which speaker wires to use from my factory B&O
Amazing job!!!! I need those for my Bronco!!
I have a 2023 Wiltrak and I want to do this upgrade on my bronco is anyway can you be able to help me to do this process?
My 2022 Bronco has the B&O sound system
same
So ,do i loose sound quality if you remove your doors? I would think so as uour loosing 4 speakers
Where are you located?
I need that kit for 2023 bronco
I have them available. Just finishing up the instruction manual. Text the shop at 765-543-1883 and say "put me on the Bronco kit list"
Great video. I have a Lux package Wildtrak that looks very similar, except in Hot Pepper Red. I went and swapped out all the factory speakers except the sub. Without going the A to B route, is there any way to grab a full range signal to amplify some bigger pods in the back? The base system is pretty easy to do so, but B&O seems a pain, given that they cut the lows out of the rears at the head unit. Thanks!
Interesting.. I have a 22 and it says B&O... sub is getting replaced Monday, how do I know it's truly B&O?
You’ll have a center channel
Why in the hell would someone want the speaker in the door. The kick panel is 3" away and you'll never notice a difference, as a matter of fact it will probably sound b wise because the door isn't as solid as the kick panel.
I would have told them no...
thats not true! i have a 22 with b&o
A local car audio shop said they wouldn’t recommend adding a sub to the rest of the B&O system because there is some sort of sub ramp down that kills the sub volume at higher levels. Any idea about that?