I build driveshaft for a living and I could be mistaken but when you took the nut to get that flange plate off to take the bearing off you didn't mark the spline and flange to make sure it went back that exact way you can have it 90 degrees off or more need to make sure you mark before you pull that off
The best marking/alignment solution to dissemble/reassemble is to use a metal punch. Use two marks on each alignment point. No paint pen erasure worries, though also using a paint pen just helps visually. I replaced mine at 70K with an OEM Toyota CSB in my 2006 4X4 CC Limited and 31K later it is still tight and smooth. I also used the opportunity to fully regrease and clean all u joints and spider bearings. Planning on keeping mine until I'm dead first!
Please don't seat that bearing with an impact gun, torque it to a 133 ft lbs loosen nut one full turn retorque to 60 ft lbs your center support bearing is now properly seated and torqued.
Is there any way I can make sure the drive shaft's lined up right ? I bought the truck used & the barring has been replaced ,so I don't know the shafts are right ... ? :-/ Link to Amazon says the U- joints don't fit my 02 Tundra ... ? SUBED / Well done video . Thank you.
My 03 tundra has been a shaker of death in the rear which is common those years, shakes all over except the front.. Going to replace the carrier which is loose and the u joints. Hopefully that helps, then the crappy drum brakes next which shake also.
Hey man great video.. I just bought a 2000 2wd tundra, and I noticed a bad grinding sound in first gear only.. When I hit second gear it goes away. Also when I go from first to neutral it goes away.. Not sure if its because the shaft is spinning faster in second gear, or if it's internal with the first gear? Really praying this is the fix.. I did grab the drive shaft by the center bearing and noticed quite a bit of play. Should this be tight or do they have play? Also.. I was going to jack the truck up and put it on jack stands and put in gear while lifted to see where the noise is coming from.. thoughts?
Thanks man. It kinda sounds like a transmission problem. The center support bearing should have slight play not a lot, and you can try to put it on jack stands and see if it makes the noise depending on what that noise it is might not make the noise cause it has to be under a load but doesn’t hurt to try it.
Guys do yourself a FAVOR, EBAY has YOTA DIRECT REPLACEMENT Parts (which i bought) for way less then dealership cost and a hell of alot more reliable then cheap aftermarket replacements. This bearings too important to cheap out on. There's also websites dedicated to selling manufacted parts for toyotas WAY BELOW DEALERSHIP PRICES that are very affordable. The one I replaced on my truck was the original at 164k miles, I think I'll pay alittle more for the factory replacement then for a KRAGEN, or AUTOZONE part for that type of reliabilty and Part Longevity. JMO😎🤔🍻
Can you describe the growling noise more please? I thought it was my front wheel bearings going when my truck started making a roaring noise, turns out it wasnt that, before i replace the u joints, should i have this replaced first to see if that is the cause?
The markings on my drive shaft got erased while doing this install. I have no idea how the two shafts were originally. Any ideas on how I can put it back so it’s not unbalanced?
Could a worn support bearing cause the truck to wobble under acceleration? My 2000 tundra wobbles when I'm on the gas pedal but quits wobbling as soon as I take my foot off the pedal
Yes there should be zero play in them. If they are really bad and you check them you will be able to tell pretty easy, and if you replace them I would definitely get a good brand and make sure they are greasable the once I have on my truck now are OE and I grease them every oil change
@@tyleremenhizer6325 I have replaced my u joints and my truck still shakes when accelerating a bit from 50mph and up nut stops once in a while. I didn't replace the carrier bearing since it looked good almost no play. Anything else you think it may be ? Drive shaft looks good no dings or dents
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Thanks Bud... Watched your vid, ordered the the part as per the Dorman part number and swapped mine out in an hour. Gotta love Yodas...
I build driveshaft for a living and I could be mistaken but when you took the nut to get that flange plate off to take the bearing off you didn't mark the spline and flange to make sure it went back that exact way you can have it 90 degrees off or more need to make sure you mark before you pull that off
I thought the same thing...lol
Yes, very important to mark flange to driveshaft so they go back together aligned correctly.
Mills John thanks didn’t know that
Thanks for that tip.
I was thinking the same thing the part that the paint mark is on by carrier bearing, yes it's marked but how did you know where it aligned to.
You solved the mystery of what's causing the rumbling knocking sound.
Unfortunately I have to take to the mechanic but luckily it a very good shop.
Why it's really easy to do, you can litterly do it on your tailgat, with nothing more then an electric impact gun from HARBOR FREIGHT.
The best marking/alignment solution to dissemble/reassemble is to use a metal punch.
Use two marks on each alignment point.
No paint pen erasure worries, though also using a paint pen just helps visually.
I replaced mine at 70K with an OEM Toyota CSB in my 2006 4X4 CC Limited and 31K later it is still tight and smooth.
I also used the opportunity to fully regrease and clean all u joints and spider bearings.
Planning on keeping mine until I'm dead first!
Thank you for the "no nonsense/ to the point " explanation !!
Thank you I appreciate the comment
I agree this is the best part swapping video I've ever seen
Please don't seat that bearing with an impact gun, torque it to a 133 ft lbs loosen nut one full turn retorque to 60 ft lbs your center support bearing is now properly seated and torqued.
Very quick and to the point thanks for the vid.
Short and sweet, thank you sir.
Short and simple great job you do it and teach it like it suppose to be super job
He might be sure to let viewers know to Mark drive shaft so they don't flip it when they go put it back together
Great video. Gotta change mine this weekend gonna start spraying it down today 👍🏾
Thanks. And yeah spraying it down a few days before really helps a lot.
Ours was a bit more difficult. We didn't have bolts on the shaft on both ends. So we had to press ours out on the front of the drive shaft.
good job! quick and clear!
Great music choice 👌
Is there any way I can make sure the drive shaft's lined up right ? I bought the truck used & the barring has been replaced ,so I don't know the shafts are right ... ? :-/
Link to Amazon says the U- joints don't fit my 02 Tundra ... ?
SUBED / Well done video .
Thank you.
Thank you so much this helped a lot
Awesome! Quick and easy!!! Thank you!
Thank you, appreciate that.
Thank you for the video good 👍
My 03 tundra has been a shaker of death in the rear which is common those years, shakes all over except the front.. Going to replace the carrier which is loose and the u joints. Hopefully that helps, then the crappy drum brakes next which shake also.
Super Wilcox does it shake when braking or excel ration?
Thanks for the upload, great tips below as well.
THANX
Hagan un video cómo cambiar El retén que va en la flecha del diferencial de una Toyota tundra 2001
Whens your next video? Looking forward to it!
How did you pull out the large nut through front differential to remove the bearing?
Gracias
Excellent video!
What are the "ears" for on the bearing? They were on out of the box, but you removed them. The original did not have them.
Hey man great video.. I just bought a 2000 2wd tundra, and I noticed a bad grinding sound in first gear only.. When I hit second gear it goes away. Also when I go from first to neutral it goes away.. Not sure if its because the shaft is spinning faster in second gear, or if it's internal with the first gear? Really praying this is the fix.. I did grab the drive shaft by the center bearing and noticed quite a bit of play. Should this be tight or do they have play? Also.. I was going to jack the truck up and put it on jack stands and put in gear while lifted to see where the noise is coming from.. thoughts?
Thanks man. It kinda sounds like a transmission problem. The center support bearing should have slight play not a lot, and you can try to put it on jack stands and see if it makes the noise depending on what that noise it is might not make the noise cause it has to be under a load but doesn’t hurt to try it.
Guys do yourself a FAVOR, EBAY has YOTA DIRECT REPLACEMENT Parts (which i bought) for way less then dealership cost and a hell of alot more reliable then cheap aftermarket replacements. This bearings too important to cheap out on.
There's also websites dedicated to selling manufacted parts for toyotas WAY BELOW DEALERSHIP PRICES that are very affordable.
The one I replaced on my truck was the original at 164k miles, I think I'll pay alittle more for the factory replacement then for a KRAGEN, or AUTOZONE part for that type of reliabilty and Part Longevity. JMO😎🤔🍻
Exelente video
AutoZone says that part doesn't fit my Tundra? It looks like a better product (sealed) and is about the right size. Could AutoZone be wrong???
I have a 2000 Tundra limited with the V8.
It looks like 934-401 is for the 4 wheel drive version only. Not made for my 2wd version.
Is your truck 4wd or 2wd?
Great video but to "unloosen" would be to tighten 😂 just sayin
And at approximately :24 you want to make sure you put the driveshaft back on. Lol.
Can you do a video on U joint removal?
Can you describe the growling noise more please? I thought it was my front wheel bearings going when my truck started making a roaring noise, turns out it wasnt that, before i replace the u joints, should i have this replaced first to see if that is the cause?
It could also be your rear hub bearing. They are also known for a growling noise.
Any videos with you doing the input shaft seal on the transfer case
No I won’t be. I ended up selling that truck and now I have 2014 tundra
Good morning! At min2:45 you have a cut that cuts out what you are saying, would you please clarify??
Nope he wont clarify. He rushed through this entire video and will not respond to any questions
If bad will it make it whine in first gear. Auntomatic
Do you need a press for the new center bearing on this model tundra?
What is un loosen ?
The markings on my drive shaft got erased while doing this install. I have no idea how the two shafts were originally. Any ideas on how I can put it back so it’s not unbalanced?
Flying Kangaroos sorry man but there is no way, would just have to try your best to see where it was.
One approximate method is aligning the u-joints so they point the same way....
Could a worn support bearing cause the truck to wobble under acceleration? My 2000 tundra wobbles when I'm on the gas pedal but quits wobbling as soon as I take my foot off the pedal
Gram Shick it could be a combination of that and worn U-joints, I would check that first, I’m most certain that it’s the U-joints
@@tyleremenhizer6325 there should be zero play in the u- joint, correct?
Yes there should be zero play in them. If they are really bad and you check them you will be able to tell pretty easy, and if you replace them I would definitely get a good brand and make sure they are greasable the once I have on my truck now are OE and I grease them every oil change
@@tyleremenhizer6325 I have replaced my u joints and my truck still shakes when accelerating a bit from 50mph and up nut stops once in a while. I didn't replace the carrier bearing since it looked good almost no play. Anything else you think it may be ? Drive shaft looks good no dings or dents
Don’t buy jank bearings ever
The bearing was original with with over 250k miles so that lasted pretty good.