Good video. Note that this centrifugal clutch kit is intended for use on one of several Chinese--made bicycle motors. These are all made with a manually-operated dry-plate clutch similar to that on a motorcycle. However, with a tiny engine and no gear shift it's rather difficult to start off, for the engine likes to stall. The centrifugal clutch allows you to get off to a very smooth start, for those three big clutch shoes are meant to slip (and they get hot.) The centrifugal clutch rotates the old dry-plate clutch, and that dry-plate clutch rotates the front drive sprocket. Yes, it requires a certain amount of work and a certain amount of mechanical experience as well. In general, if you can repair a bicycle or a lawmower you'll have enough skill to work on a motorized bike, which requires quite a bit of tinkering just to keep it running even without a fancy clutch.
TY Mark I was honestly wondering what the point was and you helped me remember someone esle said they lack the torque to start from a complete stop unless you pedal.
Yes. I should add that the stock clutch--the one that's lever operated--probably works much better with the 49cc engine if you're a 100 pound kid rather than a 200 pound senior citizen. It can happen to any of us, I suppose.
+Mark Kinsler but of course you have to pedal to about 8mph. these are not similar to motorcycle/atv clutches where you can rev and dump the clutch. they have very little gripping force
Wow thank you for telling us what it does cause for people who dont know what it does will now know an explanation should have been in the video. The video was a bit too long for my taste tho
Good morning, I have the same clutch installed on a 48cc engine. What no one mentions is that the nut (plug) on the stock clutch side housing is for charging oil into the system. Yes, this clutch is hydraulic. It needs lubrication and the oil it uses is centrifugal clutch oil, SAE 20W30. It must be filled with this oil up to the edge of the fill hole. Both the original clutch and the centrifugal clutch are in an oil bath and work perfectly. Greetings from Argentina!
This guy and his content is bloody amazing! Has anybody ever come across a guy as clear in his instruction as him? He is by far the best bicycle mechanic out there and the wat he teaches is the gold standard... In 2021 bicycle engines are all the rage now and only going to get bigger yet none of my pals from my club have heard or seen this guy! I'm sharing this to everybody and I hope this fella gets what he deserves and he might become a leading voice for the masses on mechanical issues. Awesome channel!!!
Great job. I love working on these engines. They are cheap enough for me to practice my tuning and modification ideas on. I think this is a great idea.
Thank You for this video..! I followed your steps to the letter. You'll need those diamond bits from Harbor Freight on your wiz wheel to cut a hole in the gear. I thought this would work without the hand clutch nah unless the "2 positions" made it too tight? It does pull way better off the line, No more bogging .. the out put shaft bolt is 8mm fine thread less than 1-3/4" my kit came with the wrong install bolt.... peace
I'm considering doing this mostly because my stock clutch is slipping and this seems like the only decent upgrade that would permanently fix it. I already did the shift kit, and pull start, and upgraded intake. As a side note, I'd tighten the crap out of the flower adjustement nut before sticking the new cover on just so you don't get any more slippage from the original clutch.
Great video Fabian. Your attention to detail is second to none. Good timing also, I am installing mine next week so that gives me time to order 4 more gaskets. So easy for one like my self with no experience to follow your tutorials and feel confident about doing a top notch job.
I am so thankful for this video. 8yrs old and still helping others! I’m finding that the 3 alignment posts on my clutch assembly appear to be longer than yours…too long to allow the cover to fit. I’m tempted to remove them and grind them short enough for the cover to seat properly.
Given the relative ease of removing the clutch shoes, and the fact you mentioned you can go about 100km before replacing the lubricant, wouldent it be easier to just remove the clutch bell for regreasing when the time arives? similar to a car oil change?
The best way to drill the little oil hole in the bell bushing is to use a 2mm diamond bit and a dremel tool. Takes about 5 mins. and the bits are very cheap. You wont break it easy like the carbide bit either. It works great, I've done it many times. 10 of the bits in a pack is only about 6 bucks. Try it, Very easy..
I found out that the newer kits (possibly even the old style) do not need a hole drilled for grease Fabian. Cleverly enough they machined a bit of the gear part of the clutch bell so they could press it into the bell, they leave enough teeth at the pressed portion that the teeth actually act as full blown channels for the same grease that lubes the gear work, at engine speeds this actually presses lube directly to the one way bearing.
The issue, is not the one way bearing. The issue is lack of lubrication between crankshaft extension sleeve and the clutch bell riding surface. The one-way bearing is "not" a load bearing part of the clutch bell.
The bearings push lube down into the sleeve do they not? Unless the design of the kit I have is different from yours. Did your sleeve come with a hole drilled into it from the outside, about midway, to the inside, comming through the puller tools threads.
And as an additional question, if a person were to drill a couple smaller holes instead of just one larger, could the force of the gears meshing push grease through and onto the shaft reliably
Anyone else bought a cent. Clutch where the extension sleeve isn’t reamed for the taper on the crankshaft? Mine are just straight holes that don’t fit over the shaft
person I have a lathe so I machined mine to have a somewhat matching taper, I hope some of these sellers realize eventually because I watched an installation vid on here and theres was machined properly
@@person-ce8cr I would if you can find a way to spin the extension while grinding on it. The taper angle doesnt need to be exact because there's usually a small shoulder on the crankshaft it can butt up against to keep it straight, but you need to grind all sides evenly or it won't be centered. Though mine has become pretty wobbly after using it alot (0.5-1mm) and it still works ok. Lots of times I've spun things in a drill and hit it with a grinder at the same time as a ghetto lathe. But you have to take it really easy grinding or your hand will slowly start to bounce and it'll be off center.
Hello again I did what you said about putting 4 gasket onto the clutch extension housing that did solve the problem I ran into another problem but was able to get that resolved that was with the small pins that goes into the clutch bearing what I would like to ask you now is when I turn the clutch where it's not engaging with the engine I notice that the drive gear turns do it suppose to do that also the clutch arm did you connect the clutch cable to that or you just left it alone without the clutch cable
So ive read thru the comments and watched the video and just want to be sure i am doing this right before i screw up one of the last available centrifugal clutches im goin to abbreviate the clutches as CC and MC so does that flower nut get screwed counter clockwise or clockwise n my application is on a dirtsurfer i have built myself with a jackshaft n the right size gears to retain normal ratios of a 45t rear sprocket so that i can use an internal 3 speed hub to help with hills n high speed n eliminate the need to move the chain from sprocket to sprocket n it keeps the chain from going thru my right ankle and instead raised up to go over my right foot toes i dont have any means to pedal it n wont always have a hill to jumpstart it so i have a pull start but im trying to keep down the number of cables that run to a sawed off handlebar i have one for gas one for brake n one to shift the rear hub so i really only want to have the centrifugal clutch operating is there anything i need to do to make sure the MC is engaged or allowed to spin freely at all times n allow the CC to only engage when given gas should i just remove the MC gear completely since i have a pull start and couldnt pedal start if i wanted to basically all the reasons i saw u had suggested to keep it are irrelevant to my application or will it interfere with the operation of the CC n about that flower nut if u suggest that i do remove the MC that would be gone correct n if u suggest that i keep MC gear does the MC need to be engaged constantly so that it will spin freely n how can i accomplish this without an extra cable and a clutch hold on the lever
Good job!... I don't understand why you had to be so clean with the turpentine and alcohol though on those two parts??? There was no sealer/locking fluid/glue used.
The transfer of torque to the crankshaft extension sleeve is only from a friction fit. If there is any grease between the two parts the friction locking is compromised and the crankshaft can slip/spin inside the crankshaft extension sleeve, both causing a loss of drive and damage to the sleeve and crankshaft. If you want dependable reliability, you must make sure that the mating surfaces are absolutely free from grease or oil.
Great tutorial, i dont have a motor at all. But i watched it all as it was very informative. Only thing is please put some more lumens on the subject. A Led headlight would be the way to go. Thanks.
If you buy this, you can remove the need for a normal clutch entirely by welding the bevel gear to the back plate and removing the entire mandrel and spring from the shaft
Nice, very informative. But I was wondering, since you already greased up the extension sleeve, is it really necessary to drill the gear and case for lubrication? I mean I know you'd want to periodically check to make sure everything is a go, and with regular motor bike maintenance wouldn't be too much out of the ordinary no? I'm just asking because I'm trying to find out if it's absolutely a necessity thank you for the very informative video. ☺️
This is great for people with knee problems that have trouble peddling on take off . I've been riding this style bike for a year and a half and I've never seen or knew the need for such an attachment . I love my bike and it requires much maintenance . This isn't for me now , but maybe later . Good video !
This video is great and helped me a lot with my own centrifugal clutch. I have a question: the one way bearing stop engaging after a ride. I have to pop everything open and clean the bearings (the five small pieces) to remove the grease in order to make it work again. Is this normal?
You didn t grease your gears? i use PL 1000 grease on them.I did put one on.They don t site right.If you tight them to much,main slive will split.Great video tumbs up
The crankshaft extension sleeve will only split if applying excessive torque to the fastening bolt. This is a common problem for people who have no mechanical aptitude or are simply foolish in apply excessive fastening torque to the bolt.
You will find that when the crankshaft extension sleeve has been lubricated, the spray nozzle can be lifted out of the hole drilled in the helical crankshaft gear, and another squeeze of the nozzle will spray lubricant directly onto the gear teeth. That said, the gears will run dry in a short period of time, because they are not splash lubricated, as per a 4-stroke engine with a wet sump. From my experience, the helical primary drive gears will outlast the rest of the engine, so i no longer pay too much attention to the helical primary drive gears, other than to give them a spray of lubricant when i lubricate the crankshaft extension sleeve, which is approximately every 300 kilometers or every 186 miles. If the bike is used in heavy stop/start traffic, the crankshaft extension sleeve will need to be lubricated every 150 kilometers or every 93 miles.
Does this mean that the original clutch is locked in place permanently so it doesn't slip or spin does that mean you don't need the clutch lever either or am I wrong.
Hi I am installing a centrifugal clutch on my motorize bike however I ran into a problem that I am not sure about when I install the extension housing my flower nut is hitting against the burge in the extension housing what I would like to know did you run into this problem when you installed your extension housing if so how did you fix the problem
hey fabian i just a got a clutch kit and does the extension sleeve just slide on all the way, cause mine stop and i cant get the second cover to go on when i put the clutch on
I want to put one of these on my bike, I have an 80cc Roadstar kit bought off of Amazon. What happens with the old clutch? It just stays there? like a secondary, if I want to manually release the clutch? (it'll just run normally like an automatic clutch until I pull the lever in which case it will release and no power will be applied to the wheel?) Also, will I need to buy a pull start?
Fabian F Hi where can I buy this Kit? I looked all over ebay and other pages but I cant seem find it or it is out of stock. Do you know where to buy it with maybe even shipping to Germany?
HardDiskLover The centrifugal clutch as well as pull start can be purchased through a number of vendors: www.bicycle-engines.com/Centrifugal-Clutch-and-Pull-Starter-Kit.html www.shopatvpartsonline.com/complete-centrifugal-clutch-assembly-bike-engine-kit/ www.rawmotors.com/Centrifugal-Clutch-p59.html
Hi I have a question. I have a 80cc bike motor ok when I. Pedal and released the clutch the motor has to. Turn on right mine doesn't it don't turn on so if guys know how to fix it I will really appreciate that
Can you tell me where I can buy that kit for installing a centrifugal clutch on my bike? Mainly the extension housing for the clutch. Thank you in advance!
on this video you see the chain tentioner well it has aluminum guides with holes in them its those,s i,m talking about did you modify them where can i buy them
Those guides (or idler wheel flanges) are just the original flanges that have had the cream coloured powder coat removed from the aluminium; to give it a brushed aluminium appearance. I simply drilled holes in the flanges to improve the appearance of the flanges.
stingray300m You can easily achieve the same effect by using a hole saw to drill out an appropriately sized (bare aluminium) disk out of 1mm aluminium sheet, or alternatively make a trip to a bolt and washer store and purchase some aluminium washers with a 5mm centre hole. Marking and drilling out the 8 peripheral holes is also easy. Simply use a ruler to mark a horizontal line through the centre line of the centre hole, then turn the disk 90 degrees and mark another line to effectively form a cross on the face of the disk. Now measure the distance in between the outer edges of each section of the cross and mark a reference line in between the 90 degree cross edges. Trace a complete line by placing a ruler on the marks you've just made. You will have a total of 8 equally spaces lines on the surface of the disk. Take your ruler and mark a line 6mm in from the peripheral edge of the disk on each of the lines. Take a centre punch and gently make an indentation on each of those points, so that a 3mm drill bit can get started without wobbling outside of the lines you've just made. Drill through the alumnium firstly with a 3mm drill bit, then stepping up to a 4.5mm drill bit, then stepping up to a 6mm drill bit. You have now made an idler wheel flange as shown in the video and as shown on the website.
Sure got a centrifugal clutch kit ,it's not identical in it assembly as what is shown and I'm guessing it an original attachment to crankshaft appears bearing less on this one I've not seen many and can't be sure if it's fabrication is equal to what is featured no less likely it has to be or should be lubricated and I've planned to epoxy diamond to the fly wheel and geese the entire of the assemble at some point any. I've had some trouble with gremlins lately and my have to replace the engine entirely if I can resolve a port timing issue that may be cause for it not starting.That caused by attempts to force a sett of portion rings to seat with a ratchet I'd been patient with it and yet should have filed a few thousandths off the rings before reinstalling them assuring an easy quick reassembly.Well in short I should have taken time to study the assembly closely but simply did not and in basic research on the 66 it should have been disassembled and upgraded anyway the basics again a solid forged steel journal a few ounces drilled out of the crank counterweights at the very least.
My motorized bicycle has travelled over 55,000 kilometers in 4 years, so i am reasonably experienced with the Chinese 2-stroke engine commonly available with these kits. The piston and rings should easily slide inside the cylinder. If you need to force it, you are doing something wrong. Most likely is that you do not have a piston ring or rings seated in the correct position on the piston, as the rings sit in a very specific location and are kept in this location by an anti-rotation pin. If the piston ring is sitting on top of the pin, it will not want to slide into the cylinder, or certainly not want to slide into the cylinder easily.
I do not recommend this i just tried this option cuz i couldn't get mine out either using a large flat head screwdriver with a 1+inch wrench to give me torque leverage to no avail n then tried the center punch n it span about one turn after over 200 hard shots near the edge and in the channel near the edge and it actually snapped the head off the bolt i dont know wtf is wrong but i have no idea how to get whats left out or y it was so hard it sounded like some were able to get it out with nothing but a screwdriver and the locking pliers im gonna look for that damn tool that was in the infomercials that removes bolts that have been sheared off n sink some money into it
You work the centre punch at tangent to the circumference of the bolt head, alternating between one side and the other side 180 degrees apart. Just look at the bolt head on the screw in my video.
Fabian F yea thats what i was tryong to do but i noticed just befor it broke that it was actually. rocking the bolt head back and forth and in doing so it must have loosened the metal to the point it broke i think it was just seized in there i dont see how else it could have been that difficult i know i was turning it the right direction but my other question was more concerning ill get the bolt out i just bought a bolt extractor from craftsmen
I like these centrifical clutches but they have a couple of weak spots to them the mainest one is the one way starting bearing assembly when you get a couple of mm slack when you get slack between the roller bearings and the one piece that connects to the crankshaft it spins the the centrifical clutch Part when you go to pedal start it or roll start it the clutch slips like hell the most likely cause for this is the spring inside of it breaking or excessive clearance between the roller starting mechanism it's got a very hardend spring that you cannot find anywhere so you have to make your own spring but you have to put it on the outside of the clutch bell because there's no clearance near the small gear and tie it up with wires in order to do that you have to modify the roller bearing carrier to where you can fit a paper clip without the paperclip touching the inside centre Part where it spins but I'm working on a method where I'm putting the actual one way starter outside of the of the clutch I'm going to take a strip of metal bend it and Shape it to where it fits around the clutch drum and then I'm going to put some glue under it for traction and then clamp it down with the hose clampand then put a weight on the other side of the hose clamp so that the hose clamp is balanced when the engine spins and then I'm going to put some type of homemade starting cogs mechanism on and then when you pedal start it I'm going to put weights on the end of those starting cogs so that when the engine starts the starting cogs are going to pivot in subtract inword under centrifical Force but I'm also going to put light springs on it so that when the engine is turned off starting teeth arms will go against the outer starting mechanism I might end up putting a couple of UA-cam regarding everything I left out a couple of details oh how I'm going to go about the whole thing exactly
I've been spending quite a lot of time, soaking up your great information tonight... Good job! I'm getting ready to buy a bike and engine and still wondering about the 66cc vs the Honda 49cc 4 stroke. One of the reasons I liked the 66cc Chinese engine was that it is less expensive but now that we're talking about adding another $80+ to the build.... It seems to me that the Chinese and the quieter 4 stroke are almost exactly the same price.....because the Honda, I believe, automatically has a stock centrifugal clutch ?? Do I make sense... Since you have thousands of miles on the 66cc engine, I'm very curious to ask for your opinion as to which engine I should buy and for what reason? Thank You!
I have this clutch and you do not have to do all that pre oil and drill hole stuff lithium grease thats it. I have hundreds of miles on my clutch and very re-greased anything. Its not a wet clutch system
So does this still use your factory clutch to drive the 10 tooth sprocket ? i just read through over 300 comments and didn't find the answers to any questions looks like you don't answer the majority of your viewers questions, your viewers answered more questions than you.
I must hand it to you Fabian you really know your shit, when I was looking up the shift kit I could never find anything on how to put it in on UA-cam, then I found your video and it was a grate help in making me decide if I wanted one or not, everyone was saying they are a waste of money, but they just didn't know what they where doing, and again with this clutch, you really make it easy for everyone thank you, YOU'RE THE SHIT! XD
+Crying Angel I'm happy to be of any help. The shift kit and centrifugal clutch are the best thing since sliced bread, and from what i understand SickBikeParts have the "Ultra Heavy Duty Freewheel Bearing" system for their shift kit, as an optional accessory, not that the shift kit isn't bullet proof with the White Industries heavy duty (rebuildable) freewheel bearing system.
Cheers, I live in QLD in very steep, dusty and rocky conditions and that's why I want a shift kit, and I seen the chain guides you made up on one of you video's for it, I'll be sure to copy it when I get my one. Oh and is the expansion chamber exhaust system from sick bike parts any good if u have one?
+Crying Angel The SickBikeParts expansion chamber is very good, but i haven't put it on the bike, as it makes the bike look like a motorbike, and there is no way that you would get away with it if the police pulled you over. Unfortunately, there is no way to easily hide an expansion chamber on the bike, so i'm just using the standard exhaust system, though with slightly modified baffles in the standard exhaust system. The chain guides are absolutely essential if the bike is going to be bouncing around over rough terrain.
Lol it will and a lot, my place is all hills and rocks, the standard drive chain has popped off of the guide pulley once already I was lucky i was going slow, the chain got stuck up in the drive sprocket I'm lucky it didn't crack the engine case, but I modified it and its good now, thanks again for the helpful advice man really appreciate it.
thanks Fabian I thought that the centrifugal clutch replace the regular, because on the vid. you removed the set screw by the flower but and then you tight it ,so that engaged the clutch and the centrifugal clutch will do the job if you can ..can you explain the reason to keep it thanks for your vid. I'm going to get a engine gt5 ported and add the jack shaft I owed a trek 660 mountain bike with hydraulic disc and the frame looks a bit small do you know the minimum space need it to attached a engine thanks for the help
hey all question to those who build them and sell them,,i just started building mine so what ball park figure do you sell yours at? don't see them to much on craigs list except the whizzzzer ..I just wanna price mine accordingly
Yes, it will have a small amount of play, because it does not run on roller bearings. This is the reason why it is so important to regularly lubricate the centrifugal clutch.
No. Extension sleeve is bolted onto the end of the crankshaft with a single center bolt. The designers omitted both key and keyway, probably because there is insufficient room available and the torques involved with the centrifugal clutch are smaller than those when you're using only the disk clutch.
Extension housing sleeve! Or just use a micrometer or stick or ? And measure then adjust bolt length. Just a guess but I bet your Dialy job has to consist with chemistry or design/engineering 🤔
I am unable to get the crankshaft extension sleeve on the crank shaft far enough to have the clutch housing to recess as much as is needed. I cleaned both the shaft and the extension as prescribed by you. Do I have a bad extension or am I missing something? Thank you.
Mineral Tupentine (Turps) works just as well as gasoline, but it a safer option, as it is far less volatile than gasoline, and should it catch fire, it can be extinguished more easily.
Does anyone know if this kit from JNMotors includes the gaskets, especially for the new round cover? Their website picture does not show any gaskets. Also, how does this kit compare with the kit on PistonBikes website?
You can get the centrifugal clutch and pull-start from a few different vendors, but i purchased my centrifugal clutch and pull-start through JN Motors: www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1166.htm ************ www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1170.htm
There are many advantages, but the greatest advantage comes in city traffic, where you don't have to constantly pull in the clutch lever. Once you have tried a centrifugal clutch conversion, you will never go back to the manual clutch setup.
Fabian F ] can u pedal the bike as a normal bike?] &do those clutches burn out faster than the normal clutch mini disc?] I do like the idea of not having to constantly pulling in the clutch] but I also pedal 90x% of the time]
5annent Yes, you can pedal the bike like a normal bicycle, by simply pulling in the manual clutch lever. This is the reason why it is so beneficial to run a dual clutch system. The centrifugal clutch will last longer than your engine, if you keep the centrifugal clutch lubricated.
Just finished my first build and it was running semi-smooth. Now the thing vibrates like crazy sort of like something is out of balance. Does anybody have any ideas? I have went through and made sure everything is tight.
How do you get the clutch apart to file those edges Fabian. Mine is brand new and I do not want to force it. I have already broken enough stuff learning by trial and error on this build.
There are two ways of going about it. The first method is to use a pair of flat blade screw drivers to try and force the clutch shoe disk away from the crankshaft extension sleeve by placing screwdriver tips in between the clutch shoes and the inner face of the clutch bell. This is a tricky procedure because it can take a very long lime to slowly wiggle the clutch shoes so the disk frees itself from the extension sleeve. There is also a risk of bending the clutch bell housing, which will cause permanent damage to the clutch bell. The other option is to use the crankshaft extension sleeve extraction tool (supplied in the centrifugal clutch kit) to remove the extension sleeve, as well as the clutch shoes in one single operation.
I used what was supposed to be a cobalt bit from eBay and a carbide and tungsten bit from home depot and only made a scratch on the surface. I guess I will have to forgo the oil hole unfortunately.
robert apple Typically the drill bits from eBay and Home Depot are only surface coated HSS drill bits. They are for the most part completely useless. A proper 2,5mm cobalt drill bit works out to be around $10 I also need to mention that a conventional single speed drill press spins too fast, and generates too much heat when trying to drill through hardened steel. You will need to use a multi-speed drill press, set to around 200 rpm, as well as continuously applying a light cutting oil (or transmission oil) on the drill bit and making sure you frequently pull the drill bit out of the hole to make sure it's filled with cutting oil. When starting the initial phase of the drilling process, you must be extremely careful because the very outside cutting tips of the drill bit (if stating out with a 2.5mm drill bit) will dig into the angled faces of the gear, and can tear away the outer cutting tips, causing the drill bit to become completely useless, in an instant. The hardest part of the drilling process is to very, very slowly cut into the angled faces of the gear teeth, till you reach the bottom outside face of the gear, i.e. till the drill bit just bites into the floor of the gear teeth. This very slow process can take up to 10 minutes - it's an agonisingly slow process, and the whole drilling process can take from 30 minutes to 45 minutes, just to drill one single hole.
You can get the centrifugal clutch and pull-start from a few different vendors, but i purchased my centrifugal clutch and pull-start through JN Motors: www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1170.htm & www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1166.htm
+Bryce Glover The manual clutch stays in place. In fact there is very good reason to have a manual clutch as well as the centrifugal clutch, which you will work out soon enough.
There are two variants of the centrifugal clutch for this engine: The first and most common variant is the dual clutch system, which is shown in this video, whereby the original manual clutch is retained. The second system is the oil bath centrifugal clutch, whereby the engine is not installed with a manual clutch, and only has a centrifugal clutch. The disadvantage of the second system is the fact that you cannot pull in the clutch lever on the handlebars to allow you to pedal the bike, should the centrifugal clutch fail in the locked-on position. Another disadvantage of the oil-bath centrifugal clutch is that the engine can only be started with a pull-start mechanism, and if the pull-start mechanism fails, you are not able to pedal-start the bike.
Fabian F and are there other similar ones of other machines that could apply to this,on the market? and where can i find/buy, and indentify each of the variants? Im mostly interested in one that would keep the original manual cluch as well...
You can adapt anything you like, but it might cost the GDP of a small country. The centrifugal clutch and pull-start that is installed on my bike has been purchased through JN Motors: www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1166.htm and the pull-start can be found here: www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1170.htm
Fabian F many thanks. could u give me a tip /example of a clutch adaptation that would fit well and keep both cluches working? i read that the engine internal Cranckshaft have to be longer, larger to install a centrifugal...is that true?
Túlio Santiago My video shows how the only readily available aftermarket centrifugal clutch design works, and how it is installed on the engine. Considering that the centrifugal clutch can be purchased for approx $30 American dollars, you would be wasting your time trying to adapt another type of centrifugal clutch.
Good video. Note that this centrifugal clutch kit is intended for use on one of several Chinese--made bicycle motors. These are all made with a manually-operated dry-plate clutch similar to that on a motorcycle. However, with a tiny engine and no gear shift it's rather difficult to start off, for the engine likes to stall. The centrifugal clutch allows you to get off to a very smooth start, for those three big clutch shoes are meant to slip (and they get hot.) The centrifugal clutch rotates the old dry-plate clutch, and that dry-plate clutch rotates the front drive sprocket.
Yes, it requires a certain amount of work and a certain amount of mechanical experience as well. In general, if you can repair a bicycle or a lawmower you'll have enough skill to work on a motorized bike, which requires quite a bit of tinkering just to keep it running even without a fancy clutch.
TY Mark I was honestly wondering what the point was and you helped me remember someone esle said they lack the torque to start from a complete stop unless you pedal.
Yes. I should add that the stock clutch--the one that's lever operated--probably works much better with the 49cc engine if you're a 100 pound kid rather than a 200 pound senior citizen. It can happen to any of us, I suppose.
+Mark Kinsler but of course you have to pedal to about 8mph. these are not similar to motorcycle/atv clutches where you can rev and dump the clutch. they have very little gripping force
Wow thank you for telling us what it does cause for people who dont know what it does will now know an explanation should have been in the video. The video was a bit too long for my taste tho
After you've installed your certificate clutch do you need the clutch cable anymore
Good morning, I have the same clutch installed on a 48cc engine. What no one mentions is that the nut (plug) on the stock clutch side housing is for charging oil into the system. Yes, this clutch is hydraulic. It needs lubrication and the oil it uses is centrifugal clutch oil, SAE 20W30. It must be filled with this oil up to the edge of the fill hole.
Both the original clutch and the centrifugal clutch are in an oil bath and work perfectly.
Greetings from Argentina!
This guy and his content is bloody amazing! Has anybody ever come across a guy as clear in his instruction as him? He is by far the best bicycle mechanic out there and the wat he teaches is the gold standard...
In 2021 bicycle engines are all the rage now and only going to get bigger yet none of my pals from my club have heard or seen this guy! I'm sharing this to everybody and I hope this fella gets what he deserves and he might become a leading voice for the masses on mechanical issues.
Awesome channel!!!
Great job. I love working on these engines. They are cheap enough for me to practice my tuning and modification ideas on. I think this is a great idea.
What
Thank You for this video..! I followed your steps to the letter. You'll need those diamond bits from Harbor Freight on your wiz wheel to cut a hole in the gear. I thought this would work without the hand clutch nah unless the "2 positions" made it too tight? It does pull way better off the line, No more bogging .. the out put shaft bolt is 8mm fine thread less than 1-3/4" my kit came with the wrong install bolt.... peace
I'm considering doing this mostly because my stock clutch is slipping and this seems like the only decent upgrade that would permanently fix it. I already did the shift kit, and pull start, and upgraded intake. As a side note, I'd tighten the crap out of the flower adjustement nut before sticking the new cover on just so you don't get any more slippage from the original clutch.
Great video Fabian. Your attention to detail is second to none. Good timing also, I am installing mine next week so that gives me time to order 4 more gaskets. So easy for one like my self with no experience to follow your tutorials and feel confident about doing a top notch job.
Very well put together this video I've learned a few tricks I wouldn't have thought of.
I am so thankful for this video. 8yrs old and still helping others! I’m finding that the 3 alignment posts on my clutch assembly appear to be longer than yours…too long to allow the cover to fit. I’m tempted to remove them and grind them short enough for the cover to seat properly.
@fabian F
where do you find these parts in 2023? amazon isnt much help unless i am missing somthing
Given the relative ease of removing the clutch shoes, and the fact you mentioned you can go about 100km before replacing the lubricant, wouldent it be easier to just remove the clutch bell for regreasing when the time arives? similar to a car oil change?
The best way to drill the little oil hole in the bell bushing is to use a 2mm diamond bit and a dremel tool. Takes about 5 mins. and the bits are very cheap. You wont break it easy like the carbide bit either. It works great, I've done it many times. 10 of the bits in a pack is only about 6 bucks. Try it, Very easy..
ALLOT of work to just install a centrifigal clutch! Is it really worth it?
I found out that the newer kits (possibly even the old style) do not need a hole drilled for grease Fabian. Cleverly enough they machined a bit of the gear part of the clutch bell so they could press it into the bell, they leave enough teeth at the pressed portion that the teeth actually act as full blown channels for the same grease that lubes the gear work, at engine speeds this actually presses lube directly to the one way bearing.
The issue, is not the one way bearing. The issue is lack of lubrication between crankshaft extension sleeve and the clutch bell riding surface. The one-way bearing is "not" a load bearing part of the clutch bell.
The bearings push lube down into the sleeve do they not? Unless the design of the kit I have is different from yours. Did your sleeve come with a hole drilled into it from the outside, about midway, to the inside, comming through the puller tools threads.
Threads for the puller, I mean.
And as an additional question, if a person were to drill a couple smaller holes instead of just one larger, could the force of the gears meshing push grease through and onto the shaft reliably
My gear and bell all appear to be stainless steel material, they should be able to stand up to a couple holes right
Anyone else bought a cent. Clutch where the extension sleeve isn’t reamed for the taper on the crankshaft? Mine are just straight holes that don’t fit over the shaft
Same problem. Dont know what to do
person I have a lathe so I machined mine to have a somewhat matching taper, I hope some of these sellers realize eventually because I watched an installation vid on here and theres was machined properly
Dang I’m retarded, this IS the installation video lol
@@ghettobikelife8833 should i use a dremel to fix the problem
@@person-ce8cr I would if you can find a way to spin the extension while grinding on it. The taper angle doesnt need to be exact because there's usually a small shoulder on the crankshaft it can butt up against to keep it straight, but you need to grind all sides evenly or it won't be centered. Though mine has become pretty wobbly after using it alot (0.5-1mm) and it still works ok. Lots of times I've spun things in a drill and hit it with a grinder at the same time as a ghetto lathe. But you have to take it really easy grinding or your hand will slowly start to bounce and it'll be off center.
Great vid very helpful. But what are the pros and cons of doing this
Good video. I just ordered a centrifugal clutch for my bike and now I know how to install it
where did u order it?
@@shabibhajab7092 off of eBay at the time, have no idea if they still have them
Please write me where you bought
Hello again I did what you said about putting 4 gasket onto the clutch extension housing that did solve the problem I ran into another problem but was able to get that resolved that was with the small pins that goes into the clutch bearing what I would like to ask you now is when I turn the clutch where it's not engaging with the engine I notice that the drive gear turns do it suppose to do that also the clutch arm did you connect the clutch cable to that or you just left it alone without the clutch cable
So ive read thru the comments and watched the video and just want to be sure i am doing this right before i screw up one of the last available centrifugal clutches im goin to abbreviate the clutches as CC and MC so does that flower nut get screwed counter clockwise or clockwise n my application is on a dirtsurfer i have built myself with a jackshaft n the right size gears to retain normal ratios of a 45t rear sprocket so that i can use an internal 3 speed hub to help with hills n high speed n eliminate the need to move the chain from sprocket to sprocket n it keeps the chain from going thru my right ankle and instead raised up to go over my right foot toes i dont have any means to pedal it n wont always have a hill to jumpstart it so i have a pull start but im trying to keep down the number of cables that run to a sawed off handlebar i have one for gas one for brake n one to shift the rear hub so i really only want to have the centrifugal clutch operating is there anything i need to do to make sure the MC is engaged or allowed to spin freely at all times n allow the CC to only engage when given gas should i just remove the MC gear completely since i have a pull start and couldnt pedal start if i wanted to basically all the reasons i saw u had suggested to keep it are irrelevant to my application or will it interfere with the operation of the CC n about that flower nut if u suggest that i do remove the MC that would be gone correct n if u suggest that i keep MC gear does the MC need to be engaged constantly so that it will spin freely n how can i accomplish this without an extra cable and a clutch hold on the lever
Good job!... I don't understand why you had to be so clean with the turpentine and alcohol though on those two parts??? There was no sealer/locking fluid/glue used.
The transfer of torque to the crankshaft extension sleeve is only from a friction fit. If there is any grease between the two parts the friction locking is compromised and the crankshaft can slip/spin inside the crankshaft extension sleeve, both causing a loss of drive and damage to the sleeve and crankshaft. If you want dependable reliability, you must make sure that the mating surfaces are absolutely free from grease or oil.
Great tutorial, i dont have a motor at all. But i watched it all as it was very informative. Only thing is please put some more lumens on the subject. A Led headlight would be the way to go. Thanks.
Probly put 1500 miles on mine over 3 years or so, the clutch is still good.
If you buy this, you can remove the need for a normal clutch entirely by welding the bevel gear to the back plate and removing the entire mandrel and spring from the shaft
I'm glad that I am not the only one who has air leaks in his compressor.
Nice, very informative.
But I was wondering, since you already greased up the extension sleeve, is it really necessary to drill the gear and case for lubrication?
I mean I know you'd want to periodically check to make sure everything is a go, and with regular motor bike maintenance wouldn't be too much out of the ordinary no?
I'm just asking because I'm trying to find out if it's absolutely a necessity thank you for the very informative video. ☺️
I thought those clutch kits come with a pull-starter, do you just pedal to start it like normal?
yep, one way bearing.
This is great for people with knee problems that have trouble peddling on take off . I've been riding this style bike for a year and a half and I've never seen or knew the need for such an attachment .
I love my bike and it requires much maintenance . This isn't for me now , but maybe later . Good video !
This video is great and helped me a lot with my own centrifugal clutch. I have a question: the one way bearing stop engaging after a ride. I have to pop everything open and clean the bearings (the five small pieces) to remove the grease in order to make it work again. Is this normal?
You didn t grease your gears? i use PL 1000 grease on them.I did put one on.They don t site right.If you tight them to much,main slive will split.Great video tumbs up
The crankshaft extension sleeve will only split if applying excessive torque to the fastening bolt. This is a common problem for people who have no mechanical aptitude or are simply foolish in apply excessive fastening torque to the bolt.
He actually did.
You will find that when the crankshaft extension sleeve has been lubricated, the spray nozzle can be lifted out of the hole drilled in the helical crankshaft gear, and another squeeze of the nozzle will spray lubricant directly onto the gear teeth.
That said, the gears will run dry in a short period of time, because they are not splash lubricated, as per a 4-stroke engine with a wet sump.
From my experience, the helical primary drive gears will outlast the rest of the engine, so i no longer pay too much attention to the helical primary drive gears, other than to give them a spray of lubricant when i lubricate the crankshaft extension sleeve, which is approximately every 300 kilometers or every 186 miles.
If the bike is used in heavy stop/start traffic, the crankshaft extension sleeve will need to be lubricated every 150 kilometers or every 93 miles.
Does this mean that the original clutch is locked in place permanently so it doesn't slip or spin does that mean you don't need the clutch lever either or am I wrong.
Hi I am installing a centrifugal clutch on my motorize bike however I ran into a problem that I am not sure about when I install the extension housing my flower nut is hitting against the burge in the extension housing what I would like to know did you run into this problem when you installed your extension housing if so how did you fix the problem
Hi.can i kno something ..i also have this engine ..am i need to put engine oil for before use.
Where do u buy that
hey fabian i just a got a clutch kit and does the extension sleeve just slide on all the way, cause mine stop and i cant get the second cover to go on when i put the clutch on
I want to put one of these on my bike, I have an 80cc Roadstar kit bought off of Amazon. What happens with the old clutch? It just stays there? like a secondary, if I want to manually release the clutch? (it'll just run normally like an automatic clutch until I pull the lever in which case it will release and no power will be applied to the wheel?) Also, will I need to buy a pull start?
@ samsve - the crankshaft extension sleeve comes with the centrifugal clutch kit.
Fabian F Hi where can I buy this Kit? I looked all over ebay and other pages but I cant seem find it or it is out of stock. Do you know where to buy it with maybe even shipping to Germany?
HardDiskLover The centrifugal clutch as well as pull start can be purchased through a number of vendors:
www.bicycle-engines.com/Centrifugal-Clutch-and-Pull-Starter-Kit.html
www.shopatvpartsonline.com/complete-centrifugal-clutch-assembly-bike-engine-kit/
www.rawmotors.com/Centrifugal-Clutch-p59.html
Fabian F the extension sleeve comes with the centrifugal clutch kit.
Fabian F Thanks for the links :-)
+Fabian F now does all the vedors inculde the extension sleeve housing for the cenfucial clutch conversion?
Does the centrifugal clutch make the bike take off faster from a stop?
Once the engine is started can you accelerate from a dead stop our do you need to pedal 1st, and how long does the clutch last once properly installed
Can you replace this centrifugal clutch with a bully clutch.
Hi I have a question. I have a 80cc bike motor ok when I. Pedal and released the clutch the motor has to. Turn on right mine doesn't it don't turn on so if guys know how to fix it I will really appreciate that
Thanks for the details. Im building my 4th bike. Will be installing centrifugal clutches soon.
hey chon im starting to build bikes to when done what do you sell yours for? just kinda looking for idea to be at in price..
What engine do you recommend for the longest lifespan? And what components would you replace/upgrade to make it last as long as possible?
This is a very nice and meticulous job but id like to know if you yourself manufactured all those parts?
Can you tell me where I can buy that kit for installing a centrifugal clutch on my bike? Mainly the extension housing for the clutch. Thank you in advance!
Wouldn't you have to take the top half of the original clutch off otherwise it would be like having 2 clutches.....yes?
on this video you see the chain tentioner well it has aluminum guides with holes in them its those,s i,m talking about did you modify them where can i buy them
Those guides (or idler wheel flanges) are just the original flanges that have had the cream coloured powder coat removed from the aluminium; to give it a brushed aluminium appearance.
I simply drilled holes in the flanges to improve the appearance of the flanges.
ahhh i see well you did one hell of a job on those they look professionally built
stingray300m You can easily achieve the same effect by using a hole saw to drill out an appropriately sized (bare aluminium) disk out of 1mm aluminium sheet, or alternatively make a trip to a bolt and washer store and purchase some aluminium washers with a 5mm centre hole.
Marking and drilling out the 8 peripheral holes is also easy. Simply use a ruler to mark a horizontal line through the centre line of the centre hole, then turn the disk 90 degrees and mark another line to effectively form a cross on the face of the disk.
Now measure the distance in between the outer edges of each section of the cross and mark a reference line in between the 90 degree cross edges. Trace a complete line by placing a ruler on the marks you've just made.
You will have a total of 8 equally spaces lines on the surface of the disk.
Take your ruler and mark a line 6mm in from the peripheral edge of the disk on each of the lines.
Take a centre punch and gently make an indentation on each of those points, so that a 3mm drill bit can get started without wobbling outside of the lines you've just made.
Drill through the alumnium firstly with a 3mm drill bit, then stepping up to a 4.5mm drill bit, then stepping up to a 6mm drill bit.
You have now made an idler wheel flange as shown in the video and as shown on the website.
So I can still pedal and dump the clutch to start like normal but don't have to pull in the clutch to stop?
where can i find a centrifugal clutch kit for the new ztmoto phantom 85 v3 ??
Sure got a centrifugal clutch kit ,it's not identical in it assembly as what is shown and I'm guessing it an original attachment to crankshaft appears bearing less on this one I've not seen many and can't be sure if it's fabrication is equal to what is featured no less likely it has to be or should be lubricated and I've planned to epoxy diamond to the fly wheel and geese the entire of the assemble at some point any. I've had some trouble with gremlins lately and my have to replace the engine entirely if I can resolve a port timing issue that may be cause for it not starting.That caused by attempts to force a sett of portion rings to seat with a ratchet I'd been patient with it and yet should have filed a few thousandths off the rings before reinstalling them assuring an easy quick reassembly.Well in short I should have taken time to study the assembly closely but simply did not and in basic research on the 66 it should have been disassembled and upgraded anyway the basics again a solid forged steel journal a few ounces drilled out of the crank counterweights at the very least.
My motorized bicycle has travelled over 55,000 kilometers in 4 years, so i am reasonably experienced with the Chinese 2-stroke engine commonly available with these kits.
The piston and rings should easily slide inside the cylinder. If you need to force it, you are doing something wrong. Most likely is that you do not have a piston ring or rings seated in the correct position on the piston, as the rings sit in a very specific location and are kept in this location by an anti-rotation pin.
If the piston ring is sitting on top of the pin, it will not want to slide into the cylinder, or certainly not want to slide into the cylinder easily.
@@cryptopyro wee
What is the name of that clutch I've been looking for one
But now you have to have a pullstart right?
How do I get the screw out off of the helical crankshaft gear?
channel locks or pliers and a large enough screwdriver. it's threaded normally so use a counter clockwise motion.
The easiest method is to use a centre punch and tap the large screw just inside the circumference of the head of the screw.
I do not recommend this i just tried this option cuz i couldn't get mine out either using a large flat head screwdriver with a 1+inch wrench to give me torque leverage to no avail n then tried the center punch n it span about one turn after over 200 hard shots near the edge and in the channel near the edge and it actually snapped the head off the bolt i dont know wtf is wrong but i have no idea how to get whats left out or y it was so hard it sounded like some were able to get it out with nothing but a screwdriver and the locking pliers im gonna look for that damn tool that was in the infomercials that removes bolts that have been sheared off n sink some money into it
You work the centre punch at tangent to the circumference of the bolt head, alternating between one side and the other side 180 degrees apart. Just look at the bolt head on the screw in my video.
Fabian F yea thats what i was tryong to do but i noticed just befor it broke that it was actually. rocking the bolt head back and forth and in doing so it must have loosened the metal to the point it broke i think it was just seized in there i dont see how else it could have been that difficult i know i was turning it the right direction but my other question was more concerning ill get the bolt out i just bought a bolt extractor from craftsmen
Can I make it a wet clutch just like a bt80?
where can you buy everything you need for this mod
I like these centrifical clutches but they have a couple of weak spots to them the mainest one is the one way starting bearing assembly when you get a couple of mm slack when you get slack between the roller bearings and the one piece that connects to the crankshaft it spins the the centrifical clutch Part when you go to pedal start it or roll start it the clutch slips like hell the most likely cause for this is the spring inside of it breaking or excessive clearance between the roller starting mechanism it's got a very hardend spring that you cannot find anywhere so you have to make your own spring but you have to put it on the outside of the clutch bell because there's no clearance near the small gear and tie it up with wires in order to do that you have to modify the roller bearing carrier to where you can fit a paper clip without the paperclip touching the inside centre Part where it spins but I'm working on a method where I'm putting the actual one way starter outside of the of the clutch I'm going to take a strip of metal bend it and Shape it to where it fits around the clutch drum and then I'm going to put some glue under it for traction and then clamp it down with the hose clampand then put a weight on the other side of the hose clamp so that the hose clamp is balanced when the engine spins and then I'm going to put some type of homemade starting cogs mechanism on and then when you pedal start it I'm going to put weights on the end of those starting cogs so that when the engine starts the starting cogs are going to pivot in subtract inword under centrifical Force but I'm also going to put light springs on it so that when the engine is turned off starting teeth arms will go against the outer starting mechanism I might end up putting a couple of UA-cam regarding everything I left out a couple of details oh how I'm going to go about the whole thing exactly
I've been spending quite a lot of time, soaking up your great information tonight... Good job! I'm getting ready to buy a bike and engine and still wondering about the 66cc vs the Honda 49cc 4 stroke. One of the reasons I liked the 66cc Chinese engine was that it is less expensive but now that we're talking about adding another $80+ to the build.... It seems to me that the Chinese and the quieter 4 stroke are almost exactly the same price.....because the Honda, I believe, automatically has a stock centrifugal clutch ?? Do I make sense... Since you have thousands of miles on the 66cc engine, I'm very curious to ask for your opinion as to which engine I should buy and for what reason? Thank You!
2 stroke you can go 60km/h lol
The 66cc engine gets better performance and less maintenance.
Do they make one for a BT 100cc?
I have this clutch and you do not have to do all that pre oil and drill hole stuff lithium grease thats it. I have hundreds of miles on my clutch and very re-greased anything. Its not a wet clutch system
What is the purpose for the clutch ?
can you tell us where u got the kit great vid!
So does this still use your factory clutch to drive the 10 tooth sprocket ?
i just read through over 300 comments and didn't find the answers to any questions
looks like you don't answer the majority of your viewers questions, your viewers answered more questions than you.
I must hand it to you Fabian you really know your shit, when I was looking up the shift kit I could never find anything on how to put it in on UA-cam, then I found your video and it was a grate help in making me decide if I wanted one or not, everyone was saying they are a waste of money, but they just didn't know what they where doing, and again with this clutch, you really make it easy for everyone thank you,
YOU'RE THE SHIT! XD
+Crying Angel I'm happy to be of any help. The shift kit and centrifugal clutch are the best thing since sliced bread, and from what i understand SickBikeParts have the "Ultra Heavy Duty Freewheel Bearing" system for their shift kit, as an optional accessory, not that the shift kit isn't bullet proof with the White Industries heavy duty (rebuildable) freewheel bearing system.
Cheers, I live in QLD in very steep, dusty and rocky conditions and that's why I want a shift kit, and I seen the chain guides you made up on one of you video's for it, I'll be sure to copy it when I get my one. Oh and is the expansion chamber exhaust system from sick bike parts any good if u have one?
+Crying Angel The SickBikeParts expansion chamber is very good, but i haven't put it on the bike, as it makes the bike look like a motorbike, and there is no way that you would get away with it if the police pulled you over.
Unfortunately, there is no way to easily hide an expansion chamber on the bike, so i'm just using the standard exhaust system, though with slightly modified baffles in the standard exhaust system.
The chain guides are absolutely essential if the bike is going to be bouncing around over rough terrain.
Lol it will and a lot, my place is all hills and rocks, the standard drive chain has popped off of the guide pulley once already I was lucky i was going slow, the chain got stuck up in the drive sprocket I'm lucky it didn't crack the engine case, but I modified it and its good now, thanks again for the helpful advice man really appreciate it.
the expansion chamber exhaust system is the best thing for the money !!!
In which direction do you rotate the flower nut 2 index points? Clockwise or counter-clockwise? Thank you.
Hey,do you know anyone that works on these motors.
I have a zbox with sickkit but dont have the expertice to fix a suspected clatch issue....
Thanks!!
how do you loosen the centrifugal screw mines not coming out
thanks Fabian
I thought that the centrifugal clutch replace the regular, because on the vid. you removed the set screw by the flower but and then you tight it ,so that engaged the clutch and the centrifugal clutch will do the job
if you can ..can you explain the reason to keep it thanks for your vid.
I'm going to get a engine gt5 ported and add the jack shaft I owed a trek 660 mountain bike with hydraulic disc and the frame looks a bit small do you know the minimum space need it to attached a engine
thanks for the help
how do you get yours started so easy just by turning it, i have to go on the otherside with a drill or pull start to get mine to start
It's simple technique. Work the engine to just over top dead centre and then start the engine.
Do you know where can i get a kit , centrifuga clutch or the extension
juan vera ebay boygofast
Where can I buy this?
How do we order this kit?
Would it be possible to modified with gear system
Why would you keep the old clutch and have no drive to it seems impossible for it to work
hey all question to those who build them and sell them,,i just started building mine so what ball park figure do you sell yours at? don't see them to much on craigs list except the whizzzzer ..I just wanna price mine accordingly
hi i have a gt7 pro racing motor how to hook up the clutch and the carb
Is the clutch drum supposed to have a little play in it? Up down left and right?
Yes, it will have a small amount of play, because it does not run on roller bearings. This is the reason why it is so important to regularly lubricate the centrifugal clutch.
The clutch drum to crankshaft extension sleeve will have a little play between the two components.
Fabian F that is why a small hole was drilled to lubricat
Paul Hemmy wait , lubricating a clutch? thats stupid :)
MrSlehofer You could only say such an utterly foolish thing, if not watching the video.
When i try to pedal start the centrifugal clutch slips
because you need a pull start to start the engine or go down a hill that why the four stroke engine has a pull start because you can't pedal start it
How do you remove crankshaft bolt
How does the extension sleeve mate with the crankshaft? Is there a keyway inside that sits in with the keyway slot on the crankshaft?
No. Extension sleeve is bolted onto the end of the crankshaft with a single center bolt. The designers omitted both key and keyway, probably because there is insufficient room available and the torques involved with the centrifugal clutch are smaller than those when you're using only the disk clutch.
Extension housing sleeve! Or just use a micrometer or stick or ? And measure then adjust bolt length. Just a guess but I bet your Dialy job has to consist with chemistry or design/engineering 🤔
great tutorial, can't wait to do this to mine
to free a stuck clutch 66cc all videos say clockwise hammer the 3 pins
mine will not free. please help
Or the complit kit of the centrifugal clutch
I am unable to get the crankshaft extension sleeve on the crank shaft far enough to have the clutch housing to recess as much as is needed. I cleaned both the shaft and the extension as prescribed by you. Do I have a bad extension or am I missing something?
Thank you.
maybe you forget to remove the wood draft key?
Hi, great video. how did you remove the flat head bolt that held on the small gear?
Come
at 6:12 the best degreaser is gasoline it degreases and it evaporates away
Mineral Tupentine (Turps) works just as well as gasoline, but it a safer option, as it is far less volatile than gasoline, and should it catch fire, it can be extinguished more easily.
Does anyone know if this kit from JNMotors includes the gaskets, especially for the new round cover? Their website picture does not show any gaskets. Also, how does this kit compare with the kit on PistonBikes website?
were did you get that cluch?
Where to buy centrifugal clutch and the extention cover?
You can get the centrifugal clutch and pull-start from a few different vendors, but i purchased my centrifugal clutch and pull-start through JN Motors: www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1166.htm ************ www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1170.htm
What's the advantage to the centrifugal clutch?
There are many advantages, but the greatest advantage comes in city traffic, where you don't have to constantly pull in the clutch lever.
Once you have tried a centrifugal clutch conversion, you will never go back to the manual clutch setup.
Fabian F ] can u pedal the bike as a normal bike?] &do those clutches burn out faster than the normal clutch mini disc?] I do like the idea of not having to constantly pulling in the clutch] but I also pedal 90x% of the time]
5annent Yes, you can pedal the bike like a normal bicycle, by simply pulling in the manual clutch lever. This is the reason why it is so beneficial to run a dual clutch system.
The centrifugal clutch will last longer than your engine, if you keep the centrifugal clutch lubricated.
Just finished my first build and it was running semi-smooth. Now the thing vibrates like crazy sort of like something is out of balance. Does anybody have any ideas? I have went through and made sure everything is tight.
My advice is to disassemble everything, and carefully inspect the components, and then reassemble with due care being paid to the reassembly process.
Yup I am going to replace the piston bearing. Thanks for the input.
Mine was vibrating and I tightened the motor mounts and it fixed it
How do you get the clutch apart to file those edges Fabian. Mine is brand new and I do not want to force it. I have already broken enough stuff learning by trial and error on this build.
There are two ways of going about it. The first method is to use a pair of flat blade screw drivers to try and force the clutch shoe disk away from the crankshaft extension sleeve by placing screwdriver tips in between the clutch shoes and the inner face of the clutch bell. This is a tricky procedure because it can take a very long lime to slowly wiggle the clutch shoes so the disk frees itself from the extension sleeve. There is also a risk of bending the clutch bell housing, which will cause permanent damage to the clutch bell.
The other option is to use the crankshaft extension sleeve extraction tool (supplied in the centrifugal clutch kit) to remove the extension sleeve, as well as the clutch shoes in one single operation.
I used what was supposed to be a cobalt bit from eBay and a carbide and tungsten bit from home depot and only made a scratch on the surface. I guess I will have to forgo the oil hole unfortunately.
robert apple Typically the drill bits from eBay and Home Depot are only surface coated HSS drill bits. They are for the most part completely useless.
A proper 2,5mm cobalt drill bit works out to be around $10
I also need to mention that a conventional single speed drill press spins too fast, and generates too much heat when trying to drill through hardened steel.
You will need to use a multi-speed drill press, set to around 200 rpm, as well as continuously applying a light cutting oil (or transmission oil) on the drill bit and making sure you frequently pull the drill bit out of the hole to make sure it's filled with cutting oil.
When starting the initial phase of the drilling process, you must be extremely careful because the very outside cutting tips of the drill bit (if stating out with a 2.5mm drill bit) will dig into the angled faces of the gear, and can tear away the outer cutting tips, causing the drill bit to become completely useless, in an instant.
The hardest part of the drilling process is to very, very slowly cut into the angled faces of the gear teeth, till you reach the bottom outside face of the gear, i.e. till the drill bit just bites into the floor of the gear teeth.
This very slow process can take up to 10 minutes - it's an agonisingly slow process, and the whole drilling process can take from 30 minutes to 45 minutes, just to drill one single hole.
What is the make, model, or part number of the clutch you are using? Where can I find one? Thanks
You can get the centrifugal clutch and pull-start from a few different vendors, but i purchased my centrifugal clutch and pull-start through JN Motors: www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1170.htm & www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1166.htm
Fabian F Thank you. Very helpful
Will this get rid of the manual clutch in all ?
+Bryce Glover The manual clutch stays in place. In fact there is very good reason to have a manual clutch as well as the centrifugal clutch, which you will work out soon enough.
is there only one centrifugal cluch for this engine? i mean, is it possible to adapt other ones?
and where could i buy this specific one ?
There are two variants of the centrifugal clutch for this engine: The first and most common variant is the dual clutch system, which is shown in this video, whereby the original manual clutch is retained.
The second system is the oil bath centrifugal clutch, whereby the engine is not installed with a manual clutch, and only has a centrifugal clutch.
The disadvantage of the second system is the fact that you cannot pull in the clutch lever on the handlebars to allow you to pedal the bike, should the centrifugal clutch fail in the locked-on position.
Another disadvantage of the oil-bath centrifugal clutch is that the engine can only be started with a pull-start mechanism, and if the pull-start mechanism fails, you are not able to pedal-start the bike.
Fabian F
and are there other similar ones of other machines that could apply to this,on the market?
and where can i find/buy, and indentify each of the variants?
Im mostly interested in one that would keep the original manual cluch as well...
You can adapt anything you like, but it might cost the GDP of a small country.
The centrifugal clutch and pull-start that is installed on my bike has been purchased through JN Motors:
www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1166.htm
and the pull-start can be found here:
www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1170.htm
Fabian F many thanks.
could u give me a tip /example of a clutch adaptation that would fit well and keep both cluches working?
i read that the engine internal Cranckshaft have to be longer, larger to install a centrifugal...is that true?
Túlio Santiago My video shows how the only readily available aftermarket centrifugal clutch design works, and how it is installed on the engine.
Considering that the centrifugal clutch can be purchased for approx $30 American dollars, you would be wasting your time trying to adapt another type of centrifugal clutch.
would this work on a fat tire bike??
can this be put on a kit that has a manual clutch
Yes
can i use both clutchs
thanks for the help
Your video only has a link for the chain lube where can I get the centrifugal clutch?
amazon or bikeberry or kingsmotor bikes
Hi. I have this classical cruiser I'm working on, I see all these centrifugal clutches, but which did you use? My engine is the same as yours