this is one of the most informative videos so far,running a carburetor automatically means a regulator is to be installed main reason is fire,and fuel control,keeping fuel mix is paramount on a carbureted engine,otherwise fuel in the oil is a disaster,forget all the wiseass statements below this is a very good video for the average guy who is lost on fuel mixtures,don't even attempt to have your car dyno;d without a regulator installed
Bullshit if you're using the original mechanical fuel pump designed for carbureted engines you don't need this bullshit only with am electronic fuel pump
For the occasional hot rodder, I highly recommend a good fuel regulator and, AND an EGT guage to monitor and diagnose your motor while gassing on it. You can hurt a good engine with too much fuel (washes cylinder walls and damaging rings, not to mention loss of HP), and too little fuel (extreme combustion chamber temps melting down many costly parts). The old saying, "Lean is Mean" is as true today as it was way back in the day. We used to search for the perfect temp by reading plugs and slowly jetting down to get safe and undamaging power. The EGT lets you find it quickly. Some just use lights connected to an oxygen sensor. That works great too. using all of these is best for me. Udn Udn.
I've been messing with this crap since the 70's and everyone ran a regulator with a Holley pump back then. It's quite old news. The regulator came with the pump. The Quick Fuel Regulator is almost an exact copy of the Holley regulator and they are not associated with each other. With a Holley carb I would generally run a regulator with any pump producing more than 6 lbs of fuel pressure but some get away with more. It really depends on the needle and seat/float setup.The larger the needle and seat the less pressure you can get away with. If you need low pressure at idle and high pressure at full throttle, try this. Look at the top of the regulator where the vent is. If it has a vent hole you can apply manifold vacuum at that point and the fuel pressure will automatically be reduced during high vacuum situations such as idle. When you get on it and the vacuum is low the fuel pressure will be increased. Set the max pressure with the regulator adjustment screw with vacuum line removed.
+n5ifi I just spoke to tech support at Autometer. The technician informed me that my mechanical fuel pressure gauge has lost calibration, and needs to be repaired. It's been well over 3 years since I bought it ... it began acting up @ 4 months ago with readings over 10-psi at times before settling back between 7-8-psi MAX. It's cheaper/simpler/less time consuming to just purchase a new gauge. Since the fuel pressure reading of 10+psi (especially at start-up) goes down to 7-8-psi under mid-throttle, the technician at Autometer confirmed that NO fuel pressure regulator is necessary. Is Autometer correct? I have a Holley 850 double pumper on top of a built Buick 455 Stage-1 motor.
If it's not adjustable, it's bad. If it won' hold relatively close to set pressure, it's bad. You will see some variance at times though due to outside influences. I've seen poor quality gauges move around and I've seen under hood mounted gauges move around. A good quality oil filled zero to 10 or so gauge remote mounted will usually stay pretty close though if everything is working properly. On gasoline, I would never run over 6lbs of fuel pressure. It's just not necessary. More fuel pressure equals less float drop too. Always run the smallest needle and seat you can get away with and still properly feed the engine and max fuel usage.
Was running one of these for about 5 years. After time it started to leak when the jam nut was adjusted. Called them up and got free replacement. Highly recommended upgrade.
Holley recommends one regulator per carburetor. First, check your plugs for rich-mixture fouling. Bad O-rings on needle and seat assemblies will also cause flooding, plug fouling, or even fire--ouch.
I'm about 6 psi... when it's cold and running its fine but after i open the throttle it seems to do fine but once i go back to normal rpms it seems like it continues to dump unnecessary fuel and it begins to bog down and conk out??? Do you have any suggestions?
What fuel pump do you you use? Do you use a high pressure fuel pump like 60psi with a regulator? Would that work or do you need the low pressure fuel pump like 7 psi? I bough a low pressure pump for my 65 mustang and it is so load I hate it. Looking for quieter options.
Great video! Very informative. Can a person mount a fuel pressure gauge directly to the Quick Fuel pressure regulator like you did to the Aeromotive PR? Thanks.
When you say fuel injected pressure gauge are you referring to a throttle body and electric fuel fuel pump with injector's? Cause my car has eldebrock carb with electric fuel pump on a vortec 350 my psi is showing 9-10 psi at idle.
you can use the extra port as a return ,but it will need to be restricted slightly .. the orfice in a return style regulator is about 60 to 90 thousands of an inch ,, so if you insert a piece of bolt that fits into your return line and drill a hole through it to restrict the fuel return .. you will have a stable fuel pressure thats still adjustable .. if you dont use any restriction it may not work as all the pressure will be going straight bacvk to the tank in the return. hope this helps
Troy mackeod yes that's pretty much what it's for in fact if you run on the street I suggest a return line if you can so the fuel doesn't sit in the line heating up and causing problems
I have a wrx and it came with one of these and now it makes a weird as noise and car wont go over 5psi when max is 17. i dunno. ill have to look at it a bit more
My new Edelbrock #1406 says no more than 6psi at idle. I am installing a new mechanical fuel pump and it says it is rated to 9psi. Everything is Stock Replacement parts. Should I get a regulator before installing those items?
So I have been having issues with mine I have a pretty close set up ass yours. So I can’t get no more then 4 psi on my gauge change the fuel pump put a new one same result. As it sits at 4 psi it wants to turn on at first but after cranking you the guage go to zero. I have this on a 93 Chevy truck do u know if there any kind of filter on the tank that might be restricting the gas?
Great video! Good info Where exactly can I find that same regulator I went to aeromotive online but couldn’t find the one you have, if you could give me a hand thank you.
do you have to run a return line...i have a fuel pump that is at 60 psi and I'm running a holley carb that is taking only 7 psi...should i run a return line
Yes, buy a return style regulator and run it back to the tank. Dead heading that pump will kill it quick, not to mention it will stall your car at every stop you make.
Run an electric fuel pressure gauge into the vehicle where it can be monitored while driving! You can only monitor that under hood contraption with the hood up and no load on the engine! No bueno! You need to know if you have fuel pressure at WOT.
this is one of the most informative videos so far,running a carburetor automatically means a regulator is to be installed main reason is fire,and fuel control,keeping fuel mix is paramount on a carbureted engine,otherwise fuel in the oil is a disaster,forget all the wiseass statements below this is a very good video for the average guy who is lost on fuel mixtures,don't even attempt to have your car dyno;d without a regulator installed
Bullshit if you're using the original mechanical fuel pump designed for carbureted engines you don't need this bullshit only with am electronic fuel pump
For the occasional hot rodder, I highly recommend a good fuel regulator and, AND an EGT guage to monitor and diagnose your motor while gassing on it. You can hurt a good engine with too much fuel (washes cylinder walls and damaging rings, not to mention loss of HP), and too little fuel (extreme combustion chamber temps melting down many costly parts). The old saying, "Lean is Mean" is as true today as it was way back in the day. We used to search for the perfect temp by reading plugs and slowly jetting down to get safe and undamaging power. The EGT lets you find it quickly. Some just use lights connected to an oxygen sensor. That works great too. using all of these is best for me. Udn Udn.
I've been messing with this crap since the 70's and everyone ran a regulator with a Holley pump back then. It's quite old news. The regulator came with the pump. The Quick Fuel Regulator is almost an exact copy of the Holley regulator and they are not associated with each other. With a Holley carb I would generally run a regulator with any pump producing more than 6 lbs of fuel pressure but some get away with more. It really depends on the needle and seat/float setup.The larger the needle and seat the less pressure you can get away with. If you need low pressure at idle and high pressure at full throttle, try this. Look at the top of the regulator where the vent is. If it has a vent hole you can apply manifold vacuum at that point and the fuel pressure will automatically be reduced during high vacuum situations such as idle. When you get on it and the vacuum is low the fuel pressure will be increased. Set the max pressure with the regulator adjustment screw with vacuum line removed.
+n5ifi
I just spoke to tech support at Autometer.
The technician informed me that my mechanical fuel pressure gauge
has lost calibration, and needs to be repaired. It's been well over 3
years since I bought it ... it began acting up @ 4 months ago with
readings over 10-psi at times before settling back between 7-8-psi MAX.
It's cheaper/simpler/less time consuming to just purchase a new gauge.
Since the fuel pressure reading of 10+psi (especially at start-up) goes
down to 7-8-psi under mid-throttle, the technician at Autometer
confirmed that NO fuel pressure regulator is necessary.
Is Autometer correct? I have a Holley 850 double pumper on top of a built Buick 455 Stage-1 motor.
If it's not adjustable, it's bad. If it won' hold relatively close to set pressure, it's bad. You will see some variance at times though due to outside influences. I've seen poor quality gauges move around and I've seen under hood mounted gauges move around. A good quality oil filled zero to 10 or so gauge remote mounted will usually stay pretty close though if everything is working properly. On gasoline, I would never run over 6lbs of fuel pressure. It's just not necessary. More fuel pressure equals less float drop too. Always run the smallest needle and seat you can get away with and still properly feed the engine and max fuel usage.
That’s good to hear. This regulator has a lot of good reviews!👍🏽
I'm glad I just saw this video. I just now bought the exact QFT fuel psi regulator for my Holley lol. Thanks for sharing I'v doing it old school
Was running one of these for about 5 years. After time it started to leak when the jam nut was adjusted. Called them up and got free replacement. Highly recommended upgrade.
What is the part #s for your regulator? and gauge? and size fittings? Nice looking setup
Good n clear. Thank you.
Holley recommends one regulator per carburetor. First, check your plugs for rich-mixture fouling. Bad O-rings on needle and seat assemblies will also cause flooding, plug fouling, or even fire--ouch.
I'm about 6 psi... when it's cold and running its fine but after i open the throttle it seems to do fine but once i go back to normal rpms it seems like it continues to dump unnecessary fuel and it begins to bog down and conk out??? Do you have any suggestions?
What do you do for return?
Woulda like to see it in action with quick adjustments showing change on the FPG. Great video though, very informative. Thanks.
Are inlet and outlet adapter the an male flare coupler union fittings? your reply will be highly appriceated
if you choose to run 60psi would that require you burning more fuel at idle ?
What fuel pump do you you use? Do you use a high pressure fuel pump like 60psi with a regulator? Would that work or do you need the low pressure fuel pump like 7 psi? I bough a low pressure pump for my 65 mustang and it is so load I hate it. Looking for quieter options.
can you use blinker fluid in that gauge?
That's all it takes. Has to be DOT3 blinker synthetic.
radarw64 No, since the guage has a needle, you need needle bearing grease.
Great video! Very informative. Can a person mount a fuel pressure gauge directly to the Quick Fuel pressure regulator like you did to the Aeromotive PR? Thanks.
When you say fuel injected pressure gauge are you referring to a throttle body and electric fuel fuel pump with injector's? Cause my car has eldebrock carb with electric fuel pump on a vortec 350 my psi is showing 9-10 psi at idle.
Ok so, if you have the Fuel Y'd off for the Nitrous,, does the Nitrous side have a regulayor as well?
Correct
Great tutorial
I've been having flooding issues after fuel pump change, I believe I need a regulator.
Always check the O-ring on the needle and seat assemblies
good video my brother
Does this Quick Fuel regulator have a port for the gauge?
Good question. I believe so.
Fix It Now
Did you have any problems with the aeromotive regulator leaking?
Not to date. No. All perfect. No leaks yet.
can you add gauge down the line if you already have the second choice feul regulator?? thx
On that style can the extra port be for a return fuel line I have a dead head system and I think it maybe causing problems since the nitrous was added
you can use the extra port as a return ,but it will need to be restricted slightly .. the orfice in a return style regulator is about 60 to 90 thousands of an inch ,, so if you insert a piece of bolt that fits into your return line and drill a hole through it to restrict the fuel return .. you will have a stable fuel pressure thats still adjustable .. if you dont use any restriction it may not work as all the pressure will be going straight bacvk to the tank in the return. hope this helps
Just buy a return style regulator.
Troy mackeod yes that's pretty much what it's for in fact if you run on the street I suggest a return line if you can so the fuel doesn't sit in the line heating up and causing problems
Troy mackeod n
I have a wrx and it came with one of these and now it makes a weird as noise and car wont go over 5psi when max is 17. i dunno. ill have to look at it a bit more
I set my regulator at 4.5 now it’s reading 2.5 new fuel pump inside tank I have a holly carb 350 motor (should I replace the fuel filter)
I have a Holley nonadjustable carburetor 600. I'm running a stock mechanical fuel pump. Do I need a fuel pump regulator?
Michael Barnes No.
No
Is there a return line to the tank? If so which side?
My new Edelbrock #1406 says no more than 6psi at idle. I am installing a new mechanical fuel pump and it says it is rated to 9psi. Everything is Stock Replacement parts. Should I get a regulator before installing those items?
707SonomaComa yes dude
707SonomaComa Theoretically, if your needle and seat are good, you dont need one on a stock engine, it just insures you have a consistent flow.
So I have been having issues with mine I have a pretty close set up ass yours. So I can’t get no more then 4 psi on my gauge change the fuel pump put a new one same result. As it sits at 4 psi it wants to turn on at first but after cranking you the guage go to zero. I have this on a 93 Chevy truck do u know if there any kind of filter on the tank that might be restricting the gas?
Sounds more like your fuel pump isn’t putting out reasonable pressure to begin with. I’d start there.
Does this model of aeromotive can be adjusted to 3 psi? My weber carb would like to run at 3.0 psi.
what about the return fuel pipe is connected...???
Great video! Good info
Where exactly can I find that same regulator I went to aeromotive online but couldn’t find the one you have, if you could give me a hand thank you.
that engine look good i wish you would have put the camera on your engine like to see it
What product number is that? Did it come with the gauge?
great video!
So you used that regulator for your nitrous pressure as well?
No he used a Y fitting before the fuel line coming from the back tank. At least thats the way I see it.
What is that blue piece sticking out of the right hand side? Sorry but I have never messed with AN fittings, lines or regulators.
PCcopeland I am guessing that's a plug. What size engine and hoses are you running?
90 bucks that's a steal be a couple a hundy round here,nice engine bay
Where can I purchase a 15 psi low fuel pressure regulator with gauge like that one ??
Online would be best and probally have to buy gauge seperate
do you have to run a return line...i have a fuel pump that is at 60 psi and I'm running a holley carb that is taking only 7 psi...should i run a return line
Regulate the carb to 3psi.
Yes, buy a return style regulator and run it back to the tank. Dead heading that pump will kill it quick, not to mention it will stall your car at every stop you make.
...i hav a 4150 dp 850 holly any insight on what i should be looking to hav it at?? I hav a hesitation when trying to go from 0-60 lol
It all depends on the size of your engine, the weight of the car, gearing, etc. but a good starting point is 5psi.
Nova 73 with a 383
is it possible to reset a fuel regulator?
My new carb requires certain pressure. It runs much lower than fuel pump is pushing. I built my regulator for about 50 bucks.
My FI has a built in pressure regulator.
Thx for the video.
The second valve you show is not the same, where does the fuel gauge go? Dohh
+Jesus Acuna That was my question too, about the gauge. On the second one I wonder if you could fit it to the second out port.
+AustrianAnarchy my assumption is that you would put it on the other out?
Great factoid video.
Gr8 video
The liquid is going to heat up and give a bad reading on the gauge
I see you have the adjuster turned all the way in. Maybe you don’t need a regulator my friend
Run an electric fuel pressure gauge into the vehicle where it can be monitored while driving! You can only monitor that under hood contraption with the hood up and no load on the engine! No bueno! You need to know if you have fuel pressure at WOT.
I run on 8.5
3 psi all u need