And one thing that I think no one noticed, the torch is blinking because of PWM brightness regulation. A steady light would probably not have enabled it.
I just did this fix on my 2011 L322, it’s had no phone connectivity and random battery parasitic drain since i bought it, 18 months ago, very frustrating! Followed your fix and I was immediately able to connect my phone! Thank you! Keep up your great work.
Another electronics theory, "When in doubt always Suspect the Capacitor" especially SMD/SMT & Electrolytic Capacitors. Nice find, now we can add Auto Mechanic to your long list of Skills. Great Job as always.
Thank you very much for this! Worked an absolute treat on my module, even happened to have a few 100uf smd caps with the same footprint laying around (I guess they were waiting for this day). Fantastic job!
I recommend using a little bit of glue on those caps after soldering. Right now they are dangling by their legs, but in an automotive environment there is a lot of vibration and that could cause fatigue in those legs and the caps to break off over time
What a great video and what a handy guy! I have the same module that works once if you cycle the power to it but then doesn’t work again till the next power cycle, I will do the same and see what happens. I’m a firm believer that these kind of issues with cars are common to all the cars of that model etc and if it happens to one it will happen to the rest at around the same age/milage
Hi, sir. Greetings from Brazil. One suggestion : I think you need to consider a little better esr meter to find issues like that. That esr meter that u have is a little "child's play", if i can put that. Great job.
Zoyi ZT-MD1 and Fnirsi lcr-st1. Both are lcr type tweezers and have been released on aliexpress a few weeks ago. They should be able to give the esr in circuit without removing the capacitor. I just ordered the zoyi for $35aud(£17). They have just been released, so haven't seen any reviews yet.
Another great fix, and your past experience with capacitors really served you well, as the oscilloscope didn't see a problem and yet you knew to pursue that path. 👍
Cheers Brian, yes I still wasn't sure as I couldn't see anything obvious. It may have only shown if the device got warm after being on in a confined space, but it's still working fine to this day..
Outstanding job, as always. I'm a firm believer in not putting all those plastic panels back on cars, once removed. I was hunting down a water leak in my boot several months ago, which I believe I've fixed, but I still haven't put all the plastic panels back in place. I bought that blue mat and the grinding pen a few weeks ago and I'm well impressed with both, but especially the grinding pen. That thing is a beast, it's 99.999% as good as my full sized 12 volt cordless rtoary tool, but it's way handier given it's size and the fact that it's USB-C rechargable. It's an excellent bit of kit.
Another great fix. Well done. On this one may i suggest something? I'd put some hot glue around those replacement caps. Cars bounce around an awful lot and the strain on the tiny PCB pads from a sticking up capacitor will be pretty large relatively. This is why a lot of electronics put that white sealant gunk all over them - they wouldn't bother and save money if they could get away without. Just a thought.
Bravo! Excellent repair sir. The dealership would have charged an arm & leg for a new module to make the fix. Land Rover obviously doesn't want you to access the Bluetooth module. Capacitors, who'd of thought that?😉 Great video, thanks. See ya soon.
Its been a few years for me, but I remember reading something concerning electrolytic capacitors having a 10 year on average life span. Weather there in circuit or not. Good Job sir. Also I didn't know Land Rover used Ford Motor Company parts.
Excellent find Mick! Well done. Disconnected plenty of these for battery drains and most customers just opt for a most bypass and leave without due to costs and outdated modules.
Cheers Matt👍Yes I saw it was a common problem when the car started acting up a few months back when I recorded most of this one. I've been really busy this week with the sheep and lambing so I've not had a chance to repair anything so I'm glad I still had this one nearly finished so I had something to put out today.
Amazing Mick great fix, I would of thought caps as a first stop, glad you sorted it those caps are prone to fail, no end of times they’ve shown odd results. Tv main boards use them maybe the ESR showed up as they were still hot/warm from being desoldered! Old games consoles are often repaired by changing those types of caps, just a bad design I think
I was wondering if you had some information on your trinocular microscope. I think you have a very nice soft soothing voice from the Norther East. Its so relaxing i keep falling asleep when I watch your programs in bed. Its like bedtime stories.
.😂😂😂😂Are you saying my videos are boring lol 😂 I bought the trinocular from eBay (used) some time ago. It's an Amscope clone with a 48MP FHD V8 camera on it with a 0.5x barlow lens on the camera, and a 0.5x barlow on the end of the microscope otherwise it's really too zoomed and you can't zoom out enough. I think there are some video of it on the Adonstar microscope review I did on the channel (I compared it against my setup) and I zoom right in on a chip (EEPROM) without the barlow lenses fitted, and you can read the writing on the actual silicon wafer of the chip👍
@@BuyitFixit I think your videos are brilliant. I have always liked the North East accent. I was hoping one day to marry a Geordie girl just for the voice. She could tell me bedtime stories so I could drift off into dreamland. Thanks for the info on the trinocular. I have bought a few tools but still needs a few more things. Thanks
Hello Mick, just thought I should mention this….you might want to consider using “hot snot”, or even better, neutral-curing silicone mastic around those replacement electrolytics you put in there. In vehicles and other moving mechenery vibration can actually do a fair bit of dammage to electronics and particularly leaded components thst then waggle back and fourth in their leads…..and here they ste not soldered to plated through hole pads but just surface mount pads that won’t handle the bending moment well at all….a blob of silicone will mechanically danp things down nicely and increase its longevity….least from a mechanical standpoint anyway!
*Bravo!* 6:22 Great 'thought', or Logic. re: fiber optic: _ze light Feeds ze Brain._ never knew Bluetooth 'module' was that large. Compared to other vehicles, panel easy to remove.
Awesome fix , you just saved your pocketbook from a 2,300.00 dollar repair at the dealership....... My niece has a 2010 Land Rover .... Her key fob battery went South , I swapped that out for her , saved her 180.00 bux ..... I wish I would made a video on it ... Take Care Mon Ami ...
Good job. A fluke (or not) finding those caps (which, at a guess, probably have seven bells being knocked out of them by the two switching PSUs). I'm of an age (and senility) when you didn't need a Cray for your vehicle to work.
Yes, agree. That was partly one of the reasons for not releasing this one straight away as I wanted to wait and see if it had problems, but it's still working fine, bluetooth works and the battery hasn't gone flat since.
My Jeep ignition (key) module failed and we had to get a recovery home but I told the engineer in attendance that I'd repair the module myself (which I subsequently did) and he was desperate to offer me a job with them as there's 'no one' that can fix those modules. It's a niche market and could be worth a LOT of money for those who know how to repair them.
Thanks 👍well they probably use 5v and 3.3v ICs so they have to reduce that from the vehicles 12v supply, so if not exactly the same I'd imagine it would be fairly similar.
Nice fix and most likely save a lot of money :) Dealership would've just replaced the module, which is probably very expensive. Have seen some car repair channels chasing these parasitic current draws, and often it seems to be caused by some control module like this, or aftermarket installations, corroded wires or grounds, etc. For example Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics channel is really good, he often tries to fix the actual root cause, and not just replacing parts :)
Thanks Brian. Well the unit seemed to be crashing randomly at first and it became more frequent over time. Disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it made it spring back to life for a while but the time it worked became less and less so it was like something was degrading, I've had capacitors on power supplies in TVs do this before.
Greatvwork as usual, i put an android/car play unit in my Disco 4 (short video on my channel) its not a permanat install so is an easy swap if the car survives for a few more years 😊
I have a 2016 LR4 and I have power at my dash unit but the radio , phone and sat nav are not working. I’ve been told by a mechanic that one or all of the modules are blown and it’s very expensive to repair. Your video is the closest I’ve found to even finding where the modules are in the LR4. Could you suggest where to start. I’m competent enough to tackle the job with a little advice. Cheers for and advice.
We got rid of the LR4 a few months ago, they are a nightmare. I had the body off the things 3 times, changed turbos, egr pipes etc etc etc. I know the main ECU is at the front right behind where the battery goes (as you need to disconnect this when taking the body off), but if it's starting and running then that's probably not the issue. You now know where the Bluetooth module is, I think there may be an amplifier module under the passenger seat, and the rest of the modules I would suspect to be behind the dash where the actual satnav screen is. I never had that part out so unfortunately I don't think I can really help further 😢
Wasn't it a good idea to replace the other 2 caps also to avoid taking the module out again some time in the near future 🤔, amazing video and a great fix 👍
What an excellent result! Sometimes those educated guesses can pay off. Well done.😊 FWIW:-Laser systems normally incorporate ALS(Automatic Laser Shutdown). This is a safety precaution, the system will fire up and switch the transmit laser on for a short time. If no receive signal is detected then it will shut down, which is the behaviour you observed. If the cable was cut for example, someone could stick the cut end up to their eyeball for a closer look, not a good thing looking into a laser. Depends on the power of the laser if it does any damage. The laser detectors are normally a wideband receiver so will operate over wide range of wavelengths, still I was a little surprised the torch worked but I'm used to working on large commercial Optical Fibre systems.
Well, I guess that's why my success rate is an abysmal 50%. I would've tested the caps and left them after finding them in spec. BIFI replaced them out of suspicion and experience, leading to a win. Maybe, I'll get there one of these days. Anyway, thanks for the vid., and the education.
Great video again, thanks! Brilliant idea using a flashlight to fool the optical connection. If I may ask, why did you choose those two capacitors to remove and test instead of the other two? Was it just because you've seen them fail in a power supply as you mention? Or did you use any other reasoning?
They seemed to measure ok, but perhaps with heat in an enclosed space they may give different readings. I've seen it before in TVs and the like. It seemed the unit was crashing after a while and powering it off and on (by disconnecting the battery) made it work again. The length of time it worked became shorter and shorter so it was like something was slowly deteriorating, hence my suspicions of a capacitor.
I'm surprised it's not water ingress! I've had the Body Control Unit out of my Disco 2 as it looked like it was causing the battery to go flat and blow the two horns. turned out that the horn circuit was shorting to the front lights due to water in the harness. But as it failed it's MOT and waiting a welder to come and replace the holes in the chassis caused by an infestation of metal moth larvae, I've still not got round to fixing it.
I'm not a fan of Landrovers. I've had the body off on this thing 3 times, replaced both turbos, EGR pipes, rear arms, etc etc. They are a bloody nightmare 😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit The fuel tank of my old series 3 fell off going to work once. found some heavy duty wire and tied it back on to get home. sold that as a non-runner a few years later as i got fed up fixing it. The Disco 2 was to scratch an itch from the series 3 days. So maybe I'll do a few videos as it get welded back together and dried out. Never know it might even get back on the road.
I wonder, aren't those blue coloured caps some kind of weird dielectric like solid or something ? at first I thought that the ESR wasn't showing up because of a peculiarity about how they hold charge and it was buggering up the meter but changing them worked so Bingo !!...cheers.
Hi. I have tried to repair a Bluetooth dongle for a launch obd scanner. I have tried to repair it for a friend but have failed. Would you be interested to have a look? Thanks again for your nice videos
So it works fine USB still, just not over Bluetooth? If you have any pictures of the insides drop me an email at the channel's name at out look dot com.
Thanks 👍I actually did look at genetic engineering a while back and bought a broken PCR machine which I repaired. Unfortunately it was before I was doing repair videos. I've actually still got the unit, along with a centrifuge I repaired too 😂😂😂
I am a retired electronic engineer and I have a very large pile of equipment of various types waiting to be fixed. I am unable to find the motivation to actually get down and fix the equipment. When I actually do get down to fixing something I do enjoy it but to find the motivation is hard. How do you find the motivation to do the repairs that you do?
Thanks for commenting. I can totally understand that. I sometimes feel the same way too. I seem to have a bit of a following now on UA-cam so partly that is what gives me motivation. I also volunteer at our local repair cafe which is good to chat with fellow repairers and drink coffee with a biscuit. I was there yesterday and had a look at a greenhouse electronic digital thermostat, an electric chainsaw, a petrol rotavator, kids electric bike, and a bread maker which I've brought home so I'll probably do a video on that one.
The bluetooth stopped working, and the battery started going flat after a couple of days of it not being used. I did a quick search on the internet and it seems a common problem. Most people just bypass it with a special fiber optic coupler called a MOST bypass cable.
Would someone explain what the two values on the component tester show for capacitors please? I think ESR and Vloss? I understand the microfarad reading (well, that caps have them!) Love Mick’s videos, but can’t always keep up with the “aha” moments so trying to learn! Thanks!
Vloss = voltage loss across the capacitor. ESR = equivalent series resistance which will truly show if a capacitor is bad even when the farads measure okay. I prefer the MESR-100 for testing the ESR of capacitors.
Great work. The suspicious little cynic in me thinks that SOME manufacturers may deliberately use cheap and nasty caps in their devices as a built in 'end of life' to try and force the owner to buy replacement devices or upgrades. After all, caps are a common point of failure and they are often badly made.
Just to clarify, there are several grades of electronic components. They are generally graded by temperature. Automotive is 125c to -40c, industrial is 85c to -40c and consumer is 25c to 0c. These are the temps the components are tested to when they're assembled. There are other grades but these three are the main ones (military is 125c to -55c). Capacitors are also graded by temperature. If you look at the specs for a cap, capacitance vs. temperature, there's always a serious roll off at temperature, the higher the grade, the less the roll off. A cap that is rated at 100 uf may only be 100 uf up to 85c and roll off to zero past 125c. Automotive electronic are graded from 125c to -40c. All electronic components used in a car by the manufacturer has to be automotive grade. The components are tested, the modules, once assembled are tested and the systems are tested at these temperatures. During device/module qualification, the devices are subjected to an operational life test where the devices are stressed electronically (dynamically) and thermally (125c) to simulate a specific life expectancy, usually to 10 to 15 years. But components do fail in the real world and all the testing in the world can't catch all the latent defects. (I worked as a product engineer qualifying new automotive components for 30 years.)
How do I find these capacitors? I have tried searching for 12volt 110 nf capacitor, but I am unable to find anything. Can you give me the correct term to search for?
Ah the times when you could toss out the stock radio and install 1-2dinn aftermarket radio with all the bells and whistles. These days you are stuck with the OEM crap
Ah, but the OEM stuff usually already has all you would need built in. It just may need to be unlocked via software. Even my old Beta 4 radio from my '98 golf has expansion ports which allowed me to add Bluetooth to it. My dads golf 6 oem radio also had an Aux in port in the back. Just software locked. So, they ain't so bad, those OEM radios.
I would say rather replace the electrolytic's with the same metal caps that were in there, the metal caps do not have a "liquid electrolyte" in them as far as I know they have a solid state type of electrolyte material in them ( am not 100% sure but do think so), that is why they can last so long. Other than that and maybe a dab of hot snot for stress relief on the caps, I would say, a job well done sir!
Thanks 👍That would be my wife, but it's pretty much a farm vehicle as we live on a farm. So it's always got hay or straw or other stuff like that shoved in the back 😂😂
I call bull shit, how the hell did you just know that a flashlight would keep it powered on and it just so happens you have a flashlight right there. This guy has mad skills but i dont think this is true live troubleshooting, he’s working off line for the video.
I didn't know that the flash light would work until I tried it. I normally have it on my bench anyway. The only connections on this module are power and the optical. It doesn't take any other signals, so if the flash light hadn't worked then I would have been a little stuck. Sometimes I do edit bits out of the video as the video might be too boring or too long, or sometimes I have to stop recording and do other things around the farm. I didn't have a chance to do a video this week as we've been too busy lambing but luckily I had this one nearly finished from a few months ago.
Leaving the torch there to activate the MOST bus, what a bloody brilliant idea!
Cheers mate 👍
And one thing that I think no one noticed, the torch is blinking because of PWM brightness regulation. A steady light would probably not have enabled it.
interesting find on the ESR. Absolutely a Great fix,
Thanks 👍
I just did this fix on my 2011 L322, it’s had no phone connectivity and random battery parasitic drain since i bought it, 18 months ago, very frustrating! Followed your fix and I was immediately able to connect my phone! Thank you! Keep up your great work.
Brilliant news! Yes we've got rid of the Disco now, but the BT was still working when we sold it and that was a few months after I did the fix 👍
You could have purchased a new OEM Bluetooth module for 300-400 pounds! 😂🤣😂. Good job. I enjoy your videos. Keep em coming .
@@dalee.mccombs8571 Cheers mate 👍
Up next: Steering wheel on the wrong side of the Rover - can I fix it? 🤣
😂😂😂😂😂
Nicely done Mick 😎
Cheers Vince 👍
Another electronics theory, "When in doubt always Suspect the Capacitor" especially SMD/SMT & Electrolytic Capacitors. Nice find, now we can add Auto Mechanic to your long list of Skills. Great Job as always.
Thanks 👍
There is Ohms Law and Micks Law.
Thank you very much for this! Worked an absolute treat on my module, even happened to have a few 100uf smd caps with the same footprint laying around (I guess they were waiting for this day).
Fantastic job!
@@lofty247 Thanks 👍Glad you found it useful 🙂
I recommend using a little bit of glue on those caps after soldering. Right now they are dangling by their legs, but in an automotive environment there is a lot of vibration and that could cause fatigue in those legs and the caps to break off over time
Good point 👍
What a great video and what a handy guy! I have the same module that works once if you cycle the power to it but then doesn’t work again till the next power cycle, I will do the same and see what happens. I’m a firm believer that these kind of issues with cars are common to all the cars of that model etc and if it happens to one it will happen to the rest at around the same age/milage
Thanks 👍You'll have to let me know if it works for you. The other thing it could be is possibly bad connection on one of the IC's.
Your right about the capacitors failing because of high frequency noise/heat in smpsu ! Linear psu’s rarely had problems like that! Fraser
Yes agree 👍
Hi, sir. Greetings from Brazil. One suggestion : I think you need to consider a little better esr meter to find issues like that. That esr meter that u have is a little "child's play", if i can put that.
Great job.
Thanks 👍Do you have any suggestions on a decent one? Many thanks.
Zoyi ZT-MD1 and Fnirsi lcr-st1. Both are lcr type tweezers and have been released on aliexpress a few weeks ago. They should be able to give the esr in circuit without removing the capacitor. I just ordered the zoyi for $35aud(£17). They have just been released, so haven't seen any reviews yet.
Another great fix, and your past experience with capacitors really served you well, as the oscilloscope didn't see a problem and yet you knew to pursue that path. 👍
Cheers Brian, yes I still wasn't sure as I couldn't see anything obvious. It may have only shown if the device got warm after being on in a confined space, but it's still working fine to this day..
Outstanding job, as always.
I'm a firm believer in not putting all those plastic panels back on cars, once removed. I was hunting down a water leak in my boot several months ago, which I believe I've fixed, but I still haven't put all the plastic panels back in place.
I bought that blue mat and the grinding pen a few weeks ago and I'm well impressed with both, but especially the grinding pen. That thing is a beast, it's 99.999% as good as my full sized 12 volt cordless rtoary tool, but it's way handier given it's size and the fact that it's USB-C rechargable. It's an excellent bit of kit.
Thanks 👍Yes the grinding pen is great. I only recommend things that I find good or useful 🙂
Another great fix. Well done. On this one may i suggest something? I'd put some hot glue around those replacement caps. Cars bounce around an awful lot and the strain on the tiny PCB pads from a sticking up capacitor will be pretty large relatively. This is why a lot of electronics put that white sealant gunk all over them - they wouldn't bother and save money if they could get away without. Just a thought.
Thanks 👍yes good idea, I hadn't thought about that.
At least you didn't have to re-ball those chips.
Great work as usual!
Thanks!
Bravo! Excellent repair sir. The dealership would have charged an arm & leg for a new module to make the fix. Land Rover obviously doesn't want you to access the Bluetooth module. Capacitors, who'd of thought that?😉 Great video, thanks. See ya soon.
Cheers Terry 👍
Its been a few years for me, but I remember reading something concerning electrolytic capacitors having a 10 year on average life span. Weather there in circuit or not. Good Job sir.
Also I didn't know Land Rover used Ford Motor Company parts.
That flash light trick was 👌🏻👌🏻
Thanks 🙂👍
Excellent find Mick! Well done. Disconnected plenty of these for battery drains and most customers just opt for a most bypass and leave without due to costs and outdated modules.
Cheers Matt👍Yes I saw it was a common problem when the car started acting up a few months back when I recorded most of this one. I've been really busy this week with the sheep and lambing so I've not had a chance to repair anything so I'm glad I still had this one nearly finished so I had something to put out today.
Excelente vídeo.. i have a simular problem with blue me from microsoft on my fiat punto evo 1.2 2011
Amazing Mick great fix, I would of thought caps as a first stop, glad you sorted it those caps are prone to fail, no end of times they’ve shown odd results. Tv main boards use them maybe the ESR showed up as they were still hot/warm from being desoldered!
Old games consoles are often repaired by changing those types of caps, just a bad design I think
Cheers Gary👍yes I've had those type fail on the game gear and the fire alarm PSU I look at.
@@BuyitFixit it’s a common thing ☺️
I was wondering if you had some information on your trinocular microscope. I think you have a very nice soft soothing voice from the Norther East. Its so relaxing i keep falling asleep when I watch your programs in bed. Its like bedtime stories.
.😂😂😂😂Are you saying my videos are boring lol 😂 I bought the trinocular from eBay (used) some time ago. It's an Amscope clone with a 48MP FHD V8 camera on it with a 0.5x barlow lens on the camera, and a 0.5x barlow on the end of the microscope otherwise it's really too zoomed and you can't zoom out enough. I think there are some video of it on the Adonstar microscope review I did on the channel (I compared it against my setup) and I zoom right in on a chip (EEPROM) without the barlow lenses fitted, and you can read the writing on the actual silicon wafer of the chip👍
@@BuyitFixit I think your videos are brilliant. I have always liked the North East accent. I was hoping one day to marry a Geordie girl just for the voice. She could tell me bedtime stories so I could drift off into dreamland. Thanks for the info on the trinocular. I have bought a few tools but still needs a few more things. Thanks
Hello Mick, just thought I should mention this….you might want to consider using “hot snot”, or even better, neutral-curing silicone mastic around those replacement electrolytics you put in there.
In vehicles and other moving mechenery vibration can actually do a fair bit of dammage to electronics and particularly leaded components thst then waggle back and fourth in their leads…..and here they ste not soldered to plated through hole pads but just surface mount pads that won’t handle the bending moment well at all….a blob of silicone will mechanically danp things down nicely and increase its longevity….least from a mechanical standpoint anyway!
Thanks for that. I didn't think about it at the time! Great advice. Someone else also mentioned similar. Thanks again 👍
*Bravo!* 6:22 Great 'thought', or Logic. re: fiber optic: _ze light Feeds ze Brain._
never knew Bluetooth 'module' was that large. Compared to other vehicles, panel easy to remove.
Thanks 👍😊
Awesome fix , you just saved your pocketbook from a 2,300.00 dollar repair at the dealership....... My niece has a 2010 Land Rover .... Her key fob battery went South , I swapped that out for her , saved her 180.00 bux ..... I wish I would made a video on it ... Take Care Mon Ami ...
Cheers Cajun 👍
Nice job lots cheaper than buying a new one
Thanks, yes agree!
Enjoy your video’s greatly. You do good work
I appreciate that!
Good job. A fluke (or not) finding those caps (which, at a guess, probably have seven bells being knocked out of them by the two switching PSUs). I'm of an age (and senility) when you didn't need a Cray for your vehicle to work.
Thanks, cars are becoming more and more complicated and more dependant on software and even subscriptions in some cases.
Awesome. It was funny that the oscilloscope did not show funny voltages or high ripple while measuring the capacitors that was changed
Yes, agree. That was partly one of the reasons for not releasing this one straight away as I wanted to wait and see if it had problems, but it's still working fine, bluetooth works and the battery hasn't gone flat since.
Enjoyed that fix Mick.
Thanks 👍
My Jeep ignition (key) module failed and we had to get a recovery home but I told the engineer in attendance that I'd repair the module myself (which I subsequently did) and he was desperate to offer me a job with them as there's 'no one' that can fix those modules. It's a niche market and could be worth a LOT of money for those who know how to repair them.
@@kellyeye7224 Nice one 👍well done 🙂
That PWM flashlight tip for enabling the optical is gold. Edit... Someone said it below, 🙃
I was pretty amazed it worked too, but it's optical looking for a light..
Brilliant job.👍
Thank you! Cheers!
3:02 -- 74245 (or 74ALS245) is an octal bus transceiver. I have certain applications that I still support that use them.
Ah yes. Thanks for that 👍
Very smart man you dude.... top respect, love you're fixes
Cheers mate 👍
Blasted capacitors, as usual! Thanks very much
Cheers 👍
Excellent repair.
The BT module on the Freelander 2 also causes the same issues, so I wonder if they share the same fault.
Thanks 👍well they probably use 5v and 3.3v ICs so they have to reduce that from the vehicles 12v supply, so if not exactly the same I'd imagine it would be fairly similar.
Nice fix and most likely save a lot of money :) Dealership would've just replaced the module, which is probably very expensive. Have seen some car repair channels chasing these parasitic current draws, and often it seems to be caused by some control module like this, or aftermarket installations, corroded wires or grounds, etc. For example Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics channel is really good, he often tries to fix the actual root cause, and not just replacing parts :)
Thanks 👍and thanks for letting me know about the other channel.
I think you must have a sixth sense for these repairs. I mean what guided you to those particular Capacitors? Nice one Mick, Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Brian. Well the unit seemed to be crashing randomly at first and it became more frequent over time. Disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it made it spring back to life for a while but the time it worked became less and less so it was like something was degrading, I've had capacitors on power supplies in TVs do this before.
Greatvwork as usual, i put an android/car play unit in my Disco 4 (short video on my channel) its not a permanat install so is an easy swap if the car survives for a few more years 😊
Cheers 👍
That was a very interesting repair video, mate. How much was a new Bluetooth board worth?
Cheers mate 👍a second hand one on Ebay is anywhere from £50 to £150. I bet from the dealership it is probably £300 to £500 then fitting etc.
I have a 2016 LR4 and I have power at my dash unit but the radio , phone and sat nav are not working. I’ve been told by a mechanic that one or all of the modules are blown and it’s very expensive to repair. Your video is the closest I’ve found to even finding where the modules are in the LR4. Could you suggest where to start. I’m competent enough to tackle the job with a little advice. Cheers for and advice.
We got rid of the LR4 a few months ago, they are a nightmare. I had the body off the things 3 times, changed turbos, egr pipes etc etc etc. I know the main ECU is at the front right behind where the battery goes (as you need to disconnect this when taking the body off), but if it's starting and running then that's probably not the issue. You now know where the Bluetooth module is, I think there may be an amplifier module under the passenger seat, and the rest of the modules I would suspect to be behind the dash where the actual satnav screen is. I never had that part out so unfortunately I don't think I can really help further 😢
Nice when it something so simple😁😁😁😁
Thanks 👍
Wasn't it a good idea to replace the other 2 caps also to avoid taking the module out again some time in the near future 🤔, amazing video and a great fix 👍
Thanks 👍hopefully it will have 'gone the journey' before that happens 😂😂
What an excellent result! Sometimes those educated guesses can pay off. Well done.😊
FWIW:-Laser systems normally incorporate ALS(Automatic Laser Shutdown). This is a safety precaution, the system will fire up and switch the transmit laser on for a short time. If no receive signal is detected then it will shut down, which is the behaviour you observed. If the cable was cut for example, someone could stick the cut end up to their eyeball for a closer look, not a good thing looking into a laser. Depends on the power of the laser if it does any damage. The laser detectors are normally a wideband receiver so will operate over wide range of wavelengths, still I was a little surprised the torch worked but I'm used to working on large commercial Optical Fibre systems.
Thank you, and thanks for the explanation 👍
Nice work mate
Thanks 👍
Well, I guess that's why my success rate is an abysmal 50%. I would've tested the caps and left them after finding them in spec. BIFI replaced them out of suspicion and experience, leading to a win. Maybe, I'll get there one of these days.
Anyway, thanks for the vid., and the education.
Don't be too hard on yourself. 50% is still half of that stuff not going to land fill...
Interesting to see Ford-electronics in a Land rover.
Yes indeed 👍
Is there anything you can't fix? Apart from the lottery numbers 😂
And still the undefeated champion of the fox it world 😂👍🤘
😂😂I do try... I'll have a go at pretty much anything. If you can't fix it at least you've gained some experience 👍
Great Fix. Number 1 without any doubts. Thank you for your videos as usual ❤️
Thank you 👍
Great video again, thanks! Brilliant idea using a flashlight to fool the optical connection. If I may ask, why did you choose those two capacitors to remove and test instead of the other two? Was it just because you've seen them fail in a power supply as you mention? Or did you use any other reasoning?
They seemed to measure ok, but perhaps with heat in an enclosed space they may give different readings. I've seen it before in TVs and the like. It seemed the unit was crashing after a while and powering it off and on (by disconnecting the battery) made it work again. The length of time it worked became shorter and shorter so it was like something was slowly deteriorating, hence my suspicions of a capacitor.
@@BuyitFixit I understand. Thank you so much for the explanation!
good job i dont think it could be capasitor
It could. It is always is a crapacitor except when its a transistor.
Nice.
Thanks!
I'm surprised it's not water ingress! I've had the Body Control Unit out of my Disco 2 as it looked like it was causing the battery to go flat and blow the two horns. turned out that the horn circuit was shorting to the front lights due to water in the harness. But as it failed it's MOT and waiting a welder to come and replace the holes in the chassis caused by an infestation of metal moth larvae, I've still not got round to fixing it.
I'm not a fan of Landrovers. I've had the body off on this thing 3 times, replaced both turbos, EGR pipes, rear arms, etc etc. They are a bloody nightmare 😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit The fuel tank of my old series 3 fell off going to work once. found some heavy duty wire and tied it back on to get home. sold that as a non-runner a few years later as i got fed up fixing it. The Disco 2 was to scratch an itch from the series 3 days.
So maybe I'll do a few videos as it get welded back together and dried out. Never know it might even get back on the road.
I wonder, aren't those blue coloured caps some kind of weird dielectric like solid or something ? at first I thought that the ESR wasn't showing up because of a peculiarity about how they hold charge and it was buggering up the meter but changing them worked so Bingo !!...cheers.
Cheers AndyMouse 👍
Nice... I'd like to get some easier ones now and then🤣
Cheers
My honda accord had the same problem with the battery drain due to the Bluetooth module
Interesting, I wonder if it uses the same or similar module.
Hi. I have tried to repair a Bluetooth dongle for a launch obd scanner. I have tried to repair it for a friend but have failed. Would you be interested to have a look? Thanks again for your nice videos
What's up with it?
@@BuyitFixit it powers on when you put it in the obd port or if you connect it to USB but you can't connect to it via Bluetooth
So it works fine USB still, just not over Bluetooth? If you have any pictures of the insides drop me an email at the channel's name at out look dot com.
Love your fixes, do you do genetic repairs?! Can mail myself 😂 I’m sure you’ll knock up a dna testing and sequencer to apply the necessary fix😅
Thanks 👍I actually did look at genetic engineering a while back and bought a broken PCR machine which I repaired. Unfortunately it was before I was doing repair videos. I've actually still got the unit, along with a centrifuge I repaired too 😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit I can just see you doing bioBricks videos too
I am a retired electronic engineer and I have a very large pile of equipment of various types waiting to be fixed. I am unable to find the motivation to actually get down and fix the equipment. When I actually do get down to fixing something I do enjoy it but to find the motivation is hard. How do you find the motivation to do the repairs that you do?
Thanks for commenting. I can totally understand that. I sometimes feel the same way too. I seem to have a bit of a following now on UA-cam so partly that is what gives me motivation. I also volunteer at our local repair cafe which is good to chat with fellow repairers and drink coffee with a biscuit. I was there yesterday and had a look at a greenhouse electronic digital thermostat, an electric chainsaw, a petrol rotavator, kids electric bike, and a bread maker which I've brought home so I'll probably do a video on that one.
So often its the caps !
Yes agree 👍
How did you determine the BT module was the source of the parasitic draw ? Or was it just a guess because it started playing up at the same time ?
The bluetooth stopped working, and the battery started going flat after a couple of days of it not being used. I did a quick search on the internet and it seems a common problem. Most people just bypass it with a special fiber optic coupler called a MOST bypass cable.
Irrelevant now but is that not a hot smd cap to the right of the big chip? 9:57
Is that board made by Milwaukee? Just funnin.
😂😂😂👍
Hi there how do I contact you I got a problem with my house battery bmc
You can drop me an email at the channels name at out look dot com
Would someone explain what the two values on the component tester show for capacitors please? I think ESR and Vloss? I understand the microfarad reading (well, that caps have them!) Love Mick’s videos, but can’t always keep up with the “aha” moments so trying to learn! Thanks!
Vloss = voltage loss across the capacitor. ESR = equivalent series resistance which will truly show if a capacitor is bad even when the farads measure okay. I prefer the MESR-100 for testing the ESR of capacitors.
Great work. The suspicious little cynic in me thinks that SOME manufacturers may deliberately use cheap and nasty caps in their devices as a built in 'end of life' to try and force the owner to buy replacement devices or upgrades. After all, caps are a common point of failure and they are often badly made.
Sourcing, who can say?
Thanks, although the unit is over 13 years old so they haven't done too bad.
Just to clarify, there are several grades of electronic components. They are generally graded by temperature. Automotive is 125c to -40c, industrial is 85c to -40c and consumer is 25c to 0c. These are the temps the components are tested to when they're assembled. There are other grades but these three are the main ones (military is 125c to -55c). Capacitors are also graded by temperature. If you look at the specs for a cap, capacitance vs. temperature, there's always a serious roll off at temperature, the higher the grade, the less the roll off. A cap that is rated at 100 uf may only be 100 uf up to 85c and roll off to zero past 125c. Automotive electronic are graded from 125c to -40c. All electronic components used in a car by the manufacturer has to be automotive grade. The components are tested, the modules, once assembled are tested and the systems are tested at these temperatures. During device/module qualification, the devices are subjected to an operational life test where the devices are stressed electronically (dynamically) and thermally (125c) to simulate a specific life expectancy, usually to 10 to 15 years. But components do fail in the real world and all the testing in the world can't catch all the latent defects. (I worked as a product engineer qualifying new automotive components for 30 years.)
Any idea how much land rover wanted for a new unit?
I'm not sure on the dealers but I've seen units for sale on the internet from £50 - £150, so I would imagine 2 or 3x that at least!
How do I find these capacitors? I have tried searching for 12volt 110 nf capacitor, but I am unable to find anything. Can you give me the correct term to search for?
@@johnhorgan5313 I'm sure the originals were 6.3v 100uf
@@BuyitFixit Thanks very much.
Ah the times when you could toss out the stock radio and install 1-2dinn aftermarket radio with all the bells and whistles. These days you are stuck with the OEM crap
Yes, agree. The software also becomes outdated quickly compared to the lifespan of the car too.
Ah, but the OEM stuff usually already has all you would need built in. It just may need to be unlocked via software.
Even my old Beta 4 radio from my '98 golf has expansion ports which allowed me to add Bluetooth to it.
My dads golf 6 oem radio also had an Aux in port in the back. Just software locked.
So, they ain't so bad, those OEM radios.
I would say rather replace the electrolytic's with the same metal caps that were in there, the metal caps do not have a "liquid electrolyte" in them as far as I know they have a solid state type of electrolyte material in them ( am not 100% sure but do think so), that is why they can last so long. Other than that and maybe a dab of hot snot for stress relief on the caps, I would say, a job well done sir!
I'm not sure if it's for lower ESR why they use the other types of capacitor. Good call on the hot snot!
Electrolytic capacitors have a finite life. It’s not if, but when they fail.
Very true 👍
Your soldering flux link doesn't work
Thermal cam wont show anything unless their is a short circuit sinking amps of current, but caps are always the usual suspects
I wasn't sure if there was any shorted caps or anything, just thought I'd check just in case.
o.0 they put the bluetooth module THERE? WTAF?...
Yes, bit of an odd place I thought too!
There are cars that start with bluetooth now? How fine we have become!
No the bluetooth is for mobile hands free calling 🙂
as defpom saids its always a cap :P
😂😂👍
The usual suspects - caps, diods...
The whole point of those metal caps is that they don't dry out. They must be really poorly manufactured.
I've had the same types of capacitors fail on the fire alarm power supply I recently looked at on here and the game gear I repaired too.
The moral of the story is, when in doubt, replace the capacitors.
Yep, agree 👍
Vehicles have become way to complex to be of any use to the common man.
Totally agree!
Wouldn't it have prudent to change the other 2 electrolytic's while you had all that stuff removed? I hate these new cars!
Probably, I wasn't 100% at the time if the issue was fixed or not but it's still working some 4 months later 👍
I knew the problem immediately. Someone put the steering wheel on the wrong side.
😂😂😂😂👍
Heya, and again bad cap's after 13 years
Yes 🙂👍
maybe clean both plugs on the fiber optic cable
overcomplicated bluetooth.
Has anyone ever told you that you sound like bigclive?
No, he really doesn't B.C. is Scottish for goodness sake
Not remotely the same.
No 😂😂I'm a little further South than Clive, although not that much further 🙂
Nice repair, but had the owner of the car could not have cleaned it. It looks like a wheeled trash can
Thanks 👍That would be my wife, but it's pretty much a farm vehicle as we live on a farm. So it's always got hay or straw or other stuff like that shoved in the back 😂😂
@@BuyitFixit sorry haha yes on the farm you have that. but it works again. greetings from the Netherlands
Why the F do people need bluetooth in car ?
This is why I don't buy shitty new cars.
For hands free phone calls. In the UK it's illegal to touch your phone while driving.
@@BuyitFixit Sums up trhe mentality today ........... don't answer it your driving !
I call bull shit, how the hell did you just know that a flashlight would keep it powered on and it just so happens you have a flashlight right there. This guy has mad skills but i dont think this is true live troubleshooting, he’s working off line for the video.
I didn't know that the flash light would work until I tried it. I normally have it on my bench anyway. The only connections on this module are power and the optical. It doesn't take any other signals, so if the flash light hadn't worked then I would have been a little stuck. Sometimes I do edit bits out of the video as the video might be too boring or too long, or sometimes I have to stop recording and do other things around the farm. I didn't have a chance to do a video this week as we've been too busy lambing but luckily I had this one nearly finished from a few months ago.
Hi buyitfixit I sent an email last week to you about a graphics card I hope you received it
Yes, got it, just been really busy the last couple of weeks with lambing. I'll reply soon.
A Land Drover POS, Some people just don't have any taste in cars HA.
I totally agree. It's my wifes and yes it is POS. I've had the body off it 3 times to do repairs on it. She needs to get something else.