You may have noticed that the video doesn't show me removing the blue tape from the back side before placing it into the vacuum bag. The answer is YES, I did remove the tape, but I forgot to show it in the final edit. Sorry for any confusion. I also want to let everyone know that I've reconsidered which glues to use. Many people use regular white and yellow glue with veneer, but I now recommend using glue that is specifically intended for veneering. Unibond One is an excellent choice: www.woodcraft.com/products/unibondone-veneer-adhesive-quart?gclid=CjwKCAiAuOieBhAIEiwAgjCvckbvqqWEnlYTg7fL3fSdUV0FIhaZ0vGOp6x1qS2sxndZa10w0k11IhoCISUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I fell in love with the way you instructed it. . . more than even the purpose I came here for. You are at ( or even more than ) the grade of any lecturer in Harvard or MIT. Kudos !!!
Charlie, while I've been a professional woodworker/cabinetmaker for 40 years, I was scratching my head when I realized you did not show yourself removing the blue tape from the glue side. I knew you would have to but it took me several minutes to confirm that in the questions/comments. If I was a beginner I'd have not even thought of removing it. I'd suggest at least showing a message on the screen reminding people to remove the blue tape before applying the glue. It could prevent a novice from learning something the hard way when the tape telegraphs through the finished veneer. Very good instructions otherwise.
HI Greg, you're absolutely right about the tape and I feel terrible about it. I didn't realize that I omitted removing it from the video until after it had been uploaded.
@@JackbenchWoodworking Jack I think Greg is suggesting that you use a pop up text box I think UA-cam will let you add to your video at some timestamp. Thank you for the video!
I realized the same thing about the tape and even went through the video a couple of times thinking that I missed something. Figured it was an oversight but was glad that someone else realized the omission. Good job with the explanations.@@JackbenchWoodworking
Well.Thank you for your video. I worked in kitchen company, now I am looking for a job a in the same field and your videos are very helpful to learn more. Thank you very much for you wonderful and very comlpete explanation.
Thanks! A good track saw is a great way to trim the panels because they tend to have minimal tear out. You can improve your odds of eliminating tear out by keeping the show side facing down. This way the blade is cutting in (or up) towards the show side.
Amazing and very helpfull description you made. Very simple english spoken and understantable language. First time to see how veneering is carried out. Love from Pakistan.
I have a solid 1920 dining table and I’m replacing the wood veneer top. There is another layer between the veneer and the table top. Can you tell me what it would be and how to apply it to the table top. Is it a two step process or done all at once with the veneer
Veneer is typically applied directly to the substrate, and I'm not sure what the "second Layer" is. My guess is that it's another layer of veneer that was applied with the grain running 90 degrees to the face veneer. If you removed both layers then it's best to replicate the original construction. The safest way to apply two layers of veneer to an existing table would be to apply them one at a time.
I enjoyed your veneer demonstration thank you, will help me in refitting the teak veneer onto my cupboard table, because I thought Nathan Furniture was pure wood oops I found out it is "NOT I Went Through Approximately 6" Square into Chipboard". I have just ordered up all I need to fix my cupboard.
Charlie i really appreciate you taking the time to help me out. i severely underbid this job so any help is greatly appreciated. thanks for keeping it real
Thanks for the question. You can apply veneer to smaller pieces using clamps and cauls. Smaller meaning anything that you have enough clamps to secure the whole surface. Otherwise the easiest thing would be to get a vacuum bag that is large enough for the project. It's also possible to iron veneer on, but that doesn't work well on large surfaces. Another method is to use hot hide glue, but that's an entirely different skill set.
Hi Jack, I am about to embark on my first veneering project. The boards I am trying to veneer are about 5 feet long. I don’t own a vacuum pump or a vacuum bag. Can you rent them anywhere? Secondly I wasn’t planning to veneer both sides since one side will be the lower portion of a shelf. I hate to use a good quality Birdseye maple veneer for the underside of a shelf that no one will see. What about using some Baltic birch plywood. The multiple veneers of the plywood would keep it pretty dimensionally stable. Thoughts? Also I don’t know if a veneer bag can accommodate something that long??
HI Thomas, you can absolutely fit a 5' board into a vacuum bag. If there are any maker spaces, or woodworking guilds in your area then maybe you can find one to rent. If the boards aren't too wide then you can probably press the veneer using clamps and cauls. The veneer on each side of the board do not have to be the same. You can use birdseye maple on one side and a cheaper, secondary veneer on the other side. You can use plywood as a substrate, but you still have to add veneer to each side to prevent imbalances.
Fantastic how-to! Your verbal descriptions complement the visual. I have been intimidated by veneer, but after seeing your video I am eager to give it a go someday. Thanks for posting!
I found out the hard way My Coffee Table I have has a wood veneer sheet by sanding a stain on it. I was a little upset at first until I had to do the research.
Great vdo, I picked up a table that sits 12 for free 4ftt x4ft, but the center and a small bit on one side is damaged, what’s the best way to replace the veneer on a large surface?
Thanks, I'm glad that you liked the video! If it were my table I would prep the surface of the table by either removing all of the existing veneer or sanding it smooth. I would probably remove the legs and apply new veneer to the entire surface. I would use a large vacuum bag to press the veneer in place.
Great over view! I have been using dry gluing and attaching with an iron but just got my first vacuum bag. I think the best practice is that you have the veneer smaller then the substrate and then cut the final assembly to what you need. I understand this since the bag will want to bend the veneer over the edge if left larger then the substrate. Most of the work I do is for re-veneering existing sewing table cabinets. In this process I disassemble the cabinet and either take off one or both layers of veneer depending on the amount of damage. The issue comes into the the edge of pieces are double fluted like an ogee router bit and I have been trimming back the veneer after it has been glued down. I did try some scrap and left the veneer hang over and when in it came out the edge was not glued down very well; the bending of the veneer must be lifting it off near the edge. When I put the veneer in, with out glue, and clamp it it makes and nice edge that I could use as a mark for cutting it off before gluing it up. Do you have any other suggestions?
I'm not sure what the best way would be. If I'm understanding you right then you're saying that when you overlap the new veneer across the edge profile then the veneer doesn't stay flat. But, it does stay flat if you use clamps and cauls. Maybe try using a heavy caul inside the vacuum bag.
@@JackbenchWoodworking good idea, I will give that a try; have to see how the clamping will work in the bag, or should I sandwich the assembly between some 3/4" MDF board
@@boephco I would sandwich it between some 1/2" material, maybe 3/8". Then tape it in place so that it's just a bit larger than the veneer before placing it into the bag.
Well I had all things set and then I chickened out. I ended up tracing the veneer on the piece and within 16th to 8th of an inch which was close enough to tape it sufficiently to get it in the bag. I was too concerned with how much it was overhanging and being able to get the tape held on correctly and holding into position. On another note my 1st piece I did I ended up using a polyester net fabric the that was probably too thin or not stiff enough and ended up putting in a small imprint from the tube inlet; was able to iron and sand out sufficiently. On my 2nd piece I ended up using the netting that came with the bag and it actually gave the veneer a texture because of the netting. I think this was partially due to the quality of the veneer itself. I am going to try your method of using window screen. This has been a good learning process for me and again I appreciate your video that you provided.
hey charlie, nice video, ive never worked with veneer and your instructions were very good, i do have a 4x8 sheet of walnut that ive had for a long time, im waiting for the right project...thanks a bunch.
Thank you for this video. I have an antique desk that is in need of veneer replacement on the top. Now I can do the work myself. I wont have to pay anyone else to do it and I will have a desk that I had a hand in repairing.
Hello that was very easy to follow. Thank you. Just seeing this for the first time I know it's been on seven years. Do you take the blue tape off the back before putting in the vacuum bag? I didn't see you do that and I'm wondering if you leave it on.
Thanks James! I'm not planning a video about convex/concave surfaces, but Scott Grove has an excellent video on just that and I highly recommend it: www.imaginegrove.com/veneering-curved-edges/
Charlie, Nice presentation. Liked the idea of the PSA on the square aluminum tube. Also liked you tape dispenser. Thought about the vacuum you used and hey it works!
I have a set of speakers, they have a walnut verneer on them now that is in bad shape. can i glue new verneer to the old after i sand it? Can you do a video verneering verneer?
That is an excellent question! The older masking tapes were difficult to remove after the veneer had been pressed. Lately, I have heard that some people are using just the "easy removal" masking tape. I plan to test this sometime in the near future. Thanks!
Yes, that is possible. It might be easier to do that with a veneer saw, but certainly you can do it with a knife, too. I like your "name" Mr. Noneyabidness!
@@JackbenchWoodworking cool thanks. I'm going to give veneering" a try. Be nice to make a bird's eye top to a jewelry box, without having to use up dimensional lumber.
Net video, especially the pump. Hadn't seen that before and it appears to make the process more doable. What do you do though with edges, say if you wanted to use that MDF piece as a door? Do you fold the veneer or do you need to cut it and sand it just like the rest? Will the vacuum bag work for the edges just as well?
There are a few ways to finish the edges. One way is to cut small strips of veneer and glue them on. I usually iron them on. The process is to spread glue on both the edge of the board and the strip of veneer, then let the glue sit for at least 10 minutes. It's ok to let it sit overnight, too. Then apply the strip of veneer on to the edge and press it in place with a hot clothes iron. You can also glue small strips of hardwood to the edges. In this case, you would clamp them in place just like any other glue up.
I've been thinking about getting into veneer work. I noticed your bag was still rolled up at the end, does that not cause any issues? Looking at bags to buy, the incremental cost for one large bag vs a smaller bag makes it seem the large is the way to go. Especially if you can just leave the part you don't need rolled up.
Thanks for the 101 veneering lesson. I've been wanting to see something like this for a while now. The last veneering I did was 30+ years ago and the veneer had a glue back that was ironed hot and that adhered it to the substrate.
could you please tell me if you know of a veneer that is not so fragile (doesnt crack or chip ) and is easier to work with..thank you..enjoyed like your video.
Thanks Mark. Figured woods are usually more difficult to work with. Usually a straight grained veneer is easier. Two of the most difficult veneers are white oak and wenge. Veneer softener helps, too. Like this: www.veneersupplies.com/products/Super-Soft-2-Veneer-Softener-Conditioner.html
hey Jack, awesome video thanks !! I'd like to build a mahogany back gammon game and I'm thinking of veneering only the inside with cherry tree and other woods for the triangles. However I really don't want to veneer the exterior of the box as it seems pointless to veneer mahogany on mahogany... would you on anyone else have any tips to avoid warping when veneering only one side of small panels (40x50cm) of hard wood such as mahogany ? would the joints between different wood veneers on the inside design prevent warping by allowing a bit more play between the veneers ? thanks a lot !!! Stan
HI Stan, you definitely have to veneer both sides with man made sheet goods. But, veneering both sides is not always required when using solid wood as a substrate. If the mahogany that you're veneering on to is very thin, then I would suggest making a test piece on a similarly sized piece of scrap wood. If it is closer to 3/4" thick then you should be ok.
This is something I have never tried as I always thought it was a complicated, intricate process that I thought I wasn't ready, or perhaps capable enough, to try. I might have to re-think that. Thanks for the information. I look forward to seeing some more.
my piece is not a perfect sq. is the top of a dresser. i can’t put a dresser in a bag 😂 right! so how do i go about repairing only sections of a piece!
As I understand it, you want to replace the veneer on just the top of the dresser. Is that right? Replacing veneer on just one side of an existing piece is a bit more difficult, but totally doable. One way might be to simply cut your new veneer to the approximate size or maybe a bit larger than needed. If the dresser is stout enough then you might be able to just weight it down after applying the glue. You would want to use "cauls"; a few sheets of plywood over the veneer with lots of weight applied evenly over the entire area. Be sure to put some wax paper between the veneer and the plywood to ensure that the veneer doesn't accidently get glued to the plywood. Another way would be to iron the veneer on, but I think using weight would be easier.
exactly,the only place i have where i live is lowes so the selection is limited. i picked out english chestnut.im hoping amber shellac will give it the orangeish tint im looking for. im sure you know how old pieces have a amber color. have you ever found a stain similar to match.on the back 1705 in big numbers and a 2 thats smaller is stamped.have any idea the meaning. thanks
Hi Chad, you might want to contact Certainly Wood. They are a very large and first class veneer supply house and they might be able to give you some personal help with the match. You might even be able to send them a sample and ask them if they can find a good match for you.
I haven't tried veneering onto steel, but I'm can't see why not! I think the easiest way would be to use thin coat of epoxy to glue it down. Recently, I've been spreading glue with a 1/32" toothed trowel and that seems to work very well. Of course, I would perform a test run before gluing the final piece.
Good catch! My primary concern is allowing the air to reach the vacuum hose. But, you are right, it is best to put something on both sides. On a piece like this it is fairly easy to wrap a bath towel around the panel before placing it into the bag. Thanks!
I used blue tape in place of veneer tape on the show side. Everything worked pretty well when I placed the veneer on the substrate (inside of a kitchen cabinet door). But while the glue was drying under a towel pressed by a flat board and about 40 pound of old copper pennies, the veneer seems to have expanded so that there was about a 1 mm overlap at one of the seems. Also, there were a lot of gaps around the edge where the glue did not bond. I used a razor blade dipped in glue to work glue into the edge gaps, and to cut through the overlap (and work more glue under the veneer there). The result was full of ripple and a lot of unbonded interior areas. Looks OK after sanding, seems OK as long as you don't touch. I'm glad it's the inside surface of the cabinet where nobody will notice. Fantastic perfect video, blah blah blah, etc. Except you don't mention anything that can go wrong and how to fix or avoid it. I have a large supply of sheet mahogany left over to experiment with. It is all your fault for getting me started on this.
Hi Richard, I'm glad you liked the video. How to fix what can or might go wrong would be a very long video and sure enough, I would miss something. I can't say what happened with your project, but maybe the pennies didn't provide enough pressure and/or the pressure was uneven across the panel. Or, possibly the veneer moved while you were applying pressure. I've had good success using clamps on small to medium size panels. The trick with that is to use thick cauls to evenly distribute the pressure. Also, put a piece of wax paper over the panel to prevent it from sticking to the cauls.
Hi im wondering why we need to veneer over solid wood? Will it cause stress to the wood? Solid wood needs to expand and contract. I thought veneer is a cheaper way to immitate real solid wood.
People veneer over solid wood for various reasons. One common example is veneering over drawer fronts. Doing this allows you to achieve a matched grain pattern across all drawers, while leaving the solid wood look when the drawers are opened. It is "possible" to have wood movement issues when veneering over solid wood, but it's a fairly common practice and I've never had a problem with it.
great video, i buy this titebond cold pressed venner glue, i wanna know if it is possible to glue this venner to a plastic surface with this ? thanks !
HI, sorry that I didn't see your comment right away. No, pva glue is not good for plastic. It's difficult to glue plastic. Depending on the type and surface texture of the plastic you might be ok with epoxy or maybe polyurethane glue. Definitely test it ahead of time to be sure that it works.
I would recommend that beginners do a piece of scrap before working on a serious piece. Note that Titebond glue can be instantly set by application of heat from an iron. The “cotton” setting is hot enough.
HI Richard, I always do a test piece with any new technique. Absolutely, yes a hot iron is a great way to adhere edgebanding and small pieces of veneer.
Yes, you can definitely laminate veneer together to make curved pieces. Since most wood glue is water based it can cause the veneer to expand when it is applied. It is generally ok to use water based glue, but get it into the clamps quickly to minimize this effect. Also, I recommend using either Better Bond or Unibond One because the veneer will hold its shape better with them than with regular wood glue. Another good option would be polyurethane glue (Gorilla glue) because it is not water based. If you choose polyurethane glue, then be sure to practice on scrap material before using it on your final project. Resin glues are exceptionally good for laminating, but again, they are water based and can cause the veneer to move.
Jack Bench Woodworking thanks you so much for helping, and what’s about using epoxy ? Wouldn’t make it much more harder ? Or it’s stupid idea for sone reasons?
Thanks for the video! Very clear. Just to check, do you glue the masking tape pieces under the veneer? Presumably after sanding there is no noticeable bump? Thanks again!
Nicely done! I have an 'antique' (1953) Hammond C2 organ that has a curved strip of mahogany veneer missing (the curve is in one plane only). I obviously can't use a vacuum bag. Any ideas on how best to apply sufficient pressure to the curved surface? Thanks!
I have a picture, but there's no way to display it here...doggone it!! This is a 450-lb. organ console, and where the missing piece is, isn't going to lend itself to rubber bands or clamps! Maybe you can see it via this link: facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151777715159272&set=a.10151777715019272.1073741829.680239271&type=3&theater The missing piece is on the left side of the keyboard, and is pretty obvious...especially when compared to the right side. If you have a minute, please take a quick look and see if any ideas spring to mind. Thank you!
Norm Jacques Glad you added the photo. That's an easy fix. Appy a heavy coat of Tightbond II to the organ and on the piece of veneer that you want to apply. Wait until the glue is almost dry, 10-15 minutes. Then place the veneer onto the organ and heat it with a clothes iron. Set the iron on a medium/high heat. Move the iron along as the veneer/ glue heat up. Follow the iron with a board to press and cool the veneer as you go. The heat from the iron will help the veneer to bend over the curve. Trim the excess after it cools. Of course it's a good idea to practice with scraps before attempting the actual repair.
Thank you, Charlie! I never would have thought of using an iron! Fortunately, the veneer package I bought has way more than I need, so I will definitely do a couple of test runs. I can simulate the curves on the bandsaw with some 2X stock. I'll let you know how I do with it. Thanks again!
Other ways to press veneer are with clamps or a screw press. The larger the piece is the more difficult it is to press it with clamps. If there are any woodworking organizations in your area then maybe you can find someone who would let you use their vacuum press. Someone in the area might even have a screw press.
Thanks for your reply regarding where you shop for veneers. I especially enjoyed the joewoodworker link on Veneer Supplies. Very informative. Which leads me to one more question….was the mahogany veneer you used on the video paper backed? It looked very sturdy. As mentioned before your videos are super! Thanks again
HI Norman, I hardly ever use paper backed veneers and the ones in this video weren't paper backed either. I recently had the opportunity to meet Joe at veneer supplies and he's a really great guy.
Hi, Charlie was hoping you could give me some helpful advice on book matching. BTW love your videos I find them extremely helpful. I'm a novice when it comes to book matching. Here my question I have 2 door panels I'm trying to veneer. the demensions of the panels are 19 3/4in high by 16" wide cut out of 1/4 maple plywood. I bought two packs of 4 way book matched maple burl trouble is the veneer is only 18" in length and 8" wide. I was hope to make a book match in the front and another in the back out of one package (this isn't going to happen anymore). One way I thought of handling this situation is to book match all 4 pieces and place it the center of the door panel but that seems like an awful lot of waste. How would you handle this situation? Obiviously, I'm an 1 3/4 short on the length. If you could give me your ideas it would be most appreciated. Thanks Charlie and keep making those great videos! Best Phil Cusimano
HI Phil, Thanks for the kind words. I really appreciate it. Personally, I think the best option is to make a 4-way book match out of the pieces that you have. Of course we hate to lose any of that nice (and sometimes expensive) veneer, but I would rather buy a little more if that's what it takes for me to be satisfied with the final result. You may have already seen it, but I did a video on how to do a 4-way match: ua-cam.com/video/SyIgw0udsT4/v-deo.html Best of luck, and don't hesitate to contact me again. Charlie
Hi Charlie, just be honest about your videos. Way ahead of you, I had seen your video on 4-way book matching a few months back. That video is what made me think about veneering the doors to my project, I figured it would add a nice touch to my project. Since I value your opinion that's the way I'm going to go, I'll make a 4-way book match which will get me one paneled door, and in the meantime, I'll just order two more packs of 4-way book match to handle the other door. Wishing me luck! thanks for getting back to me so quickly its much appreciated. Keep on making those great videos Charlie!
For sure Charlie, why not I can send you photos. Just finished the rails and stiles out of walnut this morning, also cut the panels. Sketch up is a wonderful thing. Do have another question for you when flatting out the veneer with Veneer Glycerine is it necessary to put one veneer sheet at a time under plattens (sp?) or can you put all 4 Veneer sheets under pressure at the same time? Thanks Charlie.
Some great information Charlie. I also have never seen the trick with the sanding bar for jointing the edges. I will definitely try that on my next veneer project which is coming up pretty soon. Thanks so much for putting this video together!
Hi Jack, I respect your clarity of instruction! About the blue painter’s tape contacting the substrate, does it cause any unevenness or bumps to show through on the show side when completed? Thank you!
Hi, I'm totally new to the concept of using veneer, and I was just wondering why it's so important to keep it in sequence? What would happen if you were to just grab pieces at random and apply them? Great video by the way, you've earned yourself a new subscriber!!
HI John, two sheets of veneer that are together in the sequence will be nearly identical. The further they get away from each other the less likely that they will match each other. Very often this is irrelevant. But, sometimes I want to put two (or more) matching pieces together. In this case, it is important to keep track of the sequence. My video on 4-way book matching will explain it better: ua-cam.com/video/SyIgw0udsT4/v-deo.html
The two most common ways to cover the edges of a veneered panel are to: 1 - Glue similar hardwood strips to the edges of the panel and then apply the veneer to the faces. 2 - Glue strips of veneer to the edges of the panel. Often this is done by applying glue to the surfaces and then ironing them on after the glue dries.
I have a Lane cedar chest from 1950 that I would love to restore but what stops me is having to balance the veneer. I want to replace the awful old veneer on the outside but leave the cedar interior alone. Would the wood panels still warp if new veneer was applied?
HI Lori, If the panels are solid wood then it will probably be ok. It's more critical to balance both sides when veneering sheet goods like plywood or mdf.
Question: Can you veneer over a 1/4" round over, or a chanfered edge. What about a routed edge with a profile? Or do you have to terminate the veneer at a 90 degree edge? Then what, use hardwood edge-banding (or hardwood strips on the edges)?
HI Randy, heating veneer with an iron will allow it to bend. It is possible, with extra effort, to veneer over a 1/4" round over and possibly a chamfered edge, too. There are advanced techniques for veneering over (some) profiles, too.
Great video on the basics of veneers, just what I needed! Question: What's your take on PSA Veneer? Can it hold up in a kitchen cabinet face environment? Thanks!
HI Dan, I haven't used PSA veneer. My guess is that it's "OK", but I wonder if it would have adhesion issues. I have used iron on veneer for edgebanding and it works great for that. I'm not sure how well iron on would work over large areas, though.
Hi Ray, I think you're referring to a radial pattern. I haven't done a video on that, but Scott Grove did a video with Matt Cremona on that. They are both great guys and Scott is a master veneer artist. You can see their video here: ua-cam.com/video/vL_gNRKQSVE/v-deo.html
@@JackbenchWoodworking thanks. I'm a complete amateur on veneers and I probably pick the worst project to start with. I have a 10 mil 24 by 96 sheet I need to cut. Appreciate the referral
I never saw you remove the painters tape from the back before you glued. You didn't really leave it on did you? I watched twice and can't figure it out.
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You may have noticed that the video doesn't show me removing the blue tape from the back side before placing it into the vacuum bag. The answer is YES, I did remove the tape, but I forgot to show it in the final edit. Sorry for any confusion. I also want to let everyone know that I've reconsidered which glues to use. Many people use regular white and yellow glue with veneer, but I now recommend using glue that is specifically intended for veneering. Unibond One is an excellent choice: www.woodcraft.com/products/unibondone-veneer-adhesive-quart?gclid=CjwKCAiAuOieBhAIEiwAgjCvckbvqqWEnlYTg7fL3fSdUV0FIhaZ0vGOp6x1qS2sxndZa10w0k11IhoCISUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Your instructions are so clear. You talk like teacher in olden days school. Much appreciated your time and efforts. Subscribed
Thank you so very much.
I fell in love with the way you instructed it. . . more than even the purpose I came here for. You are at ( or even more than ) the grade of any lecturer in Harvard or MIT. Kudos !!!
Thank you so much! I am smiling now! 😃
Charlie, while I've been a professional woodworker/cabinetmaker for 40 years, I was scratching my head when I realized you did not show yourself removing the blue tape from the glue side. I knew you would have to but it took me several minutes to confirm that in the questions/comments. If I was a beginner I'd have not even thought of removing it. I'd suggest at least showing a message on the screen reminding people to remove the blue tape before applying the glue. It could prevent a novice from learning something the hard way when the tape telegraphs through the finished veneer. Very good instructions otherwise.
HI Greg, you're absolutely right about the tape and I feel terrible about it. I didn't realize that I omitted removing it from the video until after it had been uploaded.
@@JackbenchWoodworking Jack I think Greg is suggesting that you use a pop up text box I think UA-cam will let you add to your video at some timestamp. Thank you for the video!
I realized the same thing about the tape and even went through the video a couple of times thinking that I missed something. Figured it was an oversight but was glad that someone else realized the omission. Good job with the explanations.@@JackbenchWoodworking
Well.Thank you for your video. I worked in kitchen company, now I am looking for a job a in the same field and your videos are very helpful to learn more. Thank you very much for you wonderful and very comlpete explanation.
Thank you, I'm so glad that you liked it.
Love your videos, thanks Jack! When you then trim the panels, can you do this with a track saw or is veneer likely to splinter?
Thanks! A good track saw is a great way to trim the panels because they tend to have minimal tear out. You can improve your odds of eliminating tear out by keeping the show side facing down. This way the blade is cutting in (or up) towards the show side.
@@JackbenchWoodworking that's great to know as I'm planning a kitchen build. Thanks Jack!
great video, no ums or "go ahead and", great info, fast paced, A+. Thanks!
Thank You!😊
Amazing and very helpfull description you made. Very simple english spoken and understantable language. First time to see how veneering is carried out. Love from Pakistan.
I'm glad you liked the video, thanks so much for the nice comment.
Well done. Reminds me of the clear instructions I would receive from a professor or expert in college back in the day. Thanks so much.
Thanks for you very kind words
This video is great. Thanks for the straight forward presentation.
Thanks so much, I'm glad that you liked it!
I have a solid 1920 dining table and I’m replacing the wood veneer top. There is another layer between the veneer and the table top. Can you tell me what it would be and how to apply it to the table top. Is it a two step process or done all at once with the veneer
Veneer is typically applied directly to the substrate, and I'm not sure what the "second Layer" is. My guess is that it's another layer of veneer that was applied with the grain running 90 degrees to the face veneer. If you removed both layers then it's best to replicate the original construction. The safest way to apply two layers of veneer to an existing table would be to apply them one at a time.
I enjoyed your veneer demonstration thank you, will help me in refitting the teak veneer onto my
cupboard table, because I thought Nathan Furniture was pure wood oops I found out it is "NOT
I Went Through Approximately 6" Square into Chipboard". I have just ordered up all I need to
fix my cupboard.
I'm glad it was helpful to you!
I like your easy to watch videos Charlie. Where do you get those wonderful looking veneers?
Thanks! My favorite places to buy veneer are CertainlyWood.com and VeneerSuplies.com
Charlie i really appreciate you taking the time to help me out. i severely underbid this job so any help is greatly appreciated. thanks for keeping it real
Let me know how it goes. I would love to see before and after pics!
Nice video of the basics of veneering. Did I miss you talk about removing the blue tape before gluing down to the substrate ? .
Thanks John. No, you didn't miss anything. I accidentally omitted removing the blue tape from the final video. Sorry for the confusion.
Thanks man. I am building some speakers and this helps so much.
Thanks, I'm glad to hear that!
What method do you suggest when applying veneer to drawer fronts or other pieces that wouldn't fit in the bag?
Thanks for the question. You can apply veneer to smaller pieces using clamps and cauls. Smaller meaning anything that you have enough clamps to secure the whole surface. Otherwise the easiest thing would be to get a vacuum bag that is large enough for the project. It's also possible to iron veneer on, but that doesn't work well on large surfaces. Another method is to use hot hide glue, but that's an entirely different skill set.
thanks. Im taking a veneer class right now and this helped clear up some confusions.
Hi Rodney, I'm glad the video was helpful to you!
If I build a countertop from chipboard I’ll have to do the underside as well ?
I would veneer both sides
Veneer on the bottom can be inexpensive
Hi Jack, I am about to embark on my first veneering project. The boards I am trying to veneer are about 5 feet long. I don’t own a vacuum pump or a vacuum bag. Can you rent them anywhere? Secondly I wasn’t planning to veneer both sides since one side will be the lower portion of a shelf. I hate to use a good quality Birdseye maple veneer for the underside of a shelf that no one will see. What about using some Baltic birch plywood. The multiple veneers of the plywood would keep it pretty dimensionally stable. Thoughts? Also I don’t know if a veneer bag can accommodate something that long??
HI Thomas, you can absolutely fit a 5' board into a vacuum bag. If there are any maker spaces, or woodworking guilds in your area then maybe you can find one to rent. If the boards aren't too wide then you can probably press the veneer using clamps and cauls. The veneer on each side of the board do not have to be the same. You can use birdseye maple on one side and a cheaper, secondary veneer on the other side. You can use plywood as a substrate, but you still have to add veneer to each side to prevent imbalances.
Good overview of basic techniques
Thanks Mark, I'm glad you liked the video.
Brilliant instructional. Great details. Too many to mention. THANK YOU
Thanks so much for the positive feedback!
Fantastic how-to! Your verbal descriptions complement the visual. I have been intimidated by veneer, but after seeing your video I am eager to give it a go someday. Thanks for posting!
Thanks man! Veneering adds so much to your "bag of tricks", give it a try and let me know how it goes!
Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions when you are ready to try veneering for the first time.
Jack Bench Woodworking thank you!
What do you mean by white glue? Is it like Elmer's glue?
I'm sorry I didn't respond MUCH sooner, but I just spotted your question. Yes, I mean Elmers Glue All.
Where can you get a vacuum bag? Search on Amazon only turns up things for food savers.
VeneerSuplies.com JoeWoodworker.com and others
Thanks for the video. Can you recommend a veneer dealer? Thanks
My two favorites are Certainly Wood, and Veneer Supplies.
@@JackbenchWoodworking Thank You
Great video. As a keen hobby wood worker I've always found the thought of veneering a bit intimidating but now I think I might give it a go.
Thanks Alan, I am so glad to hear that. Please don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.
Fascinating tutorial Thankyou. Now I understand what veneer is. ❤️
Thank you so much!
I found out the hard way My Coffee Table I have has a wood veneer sheet by sanding a stain on it. I was a little upset at first until I had to do the research.
Great vdo, I picked up a table that sits 12 for free 4ftt x4ft, but the center and a small bit on one side is damaged, what’s the best way to replace the veneer on a large surface?
Thanks, I'm glad that you liked the video! If it were my table I would prep the surface of the table by either removing all of the existing veneer or sanding it smooth. I would probably remove the legs and apply new veneer to the entire surface. I would use a large vacuum bag to press the veneer in place.
Also, I would use a slow setting glue. Probably a resin glue, but possibly slow set epoxy.
Great over view! I have been using dry gluing and attaching with an iron but just got my first vacuum bag. I think the best practice is that you have the veneer smaller then the substrate and then cut the final assembly to what you need. I understand this since the bag will want to bend the veneer over the edge if left larger then the substrate. Most of the work I do is for re-veneering existing sewing table cabinets. In this process I disassemble the cabinet and either take off one or both layers of veneer depending on the amount of damage. The issue comes into the the edge of pieces are double fluted like an ogee router bit and I have been trimming back the veneer after it has been glued down. I did try some scrap and left the veneer hang over and when in it came out the edge was not glued down very well; the bending of the veneer must be lifting it off near the edge. When I put the veneer in, with out glue, and clamp it it makes and nice edge that I could use as a mark for cutting it off before gluing it up. Do you have any other suggestions?
I'm not sure what the best way would be. If I'm understanding you right then you're saying that when you overlap the new veneer across the edge profile then the veneer doesn't stay flat. But, it does stay flat if you use clamps and cauls. Maybe try using a heavy caul inside the vacuum bag.
@@JackbenchWoodworking good idea, I will give that a try; have to see how the clamping will work in the bag, or should I sandwich the assembly between some 3/4" MDF board
@@boephco I would sandwich it between some 1/2" material, maybe 3/8". Then tape it in place so that it's just a bit larger than the veneer before placing it into the bag.
Well I had all things set and then I chickened out. I ended up tracing the veneer on the piece and within 16th to 8th of an inch which was close enough to tape it sufficiently to get it in the bag. I was too concerned with how much it was overhanging and being able to get the tape held on correctly and holding into position. On another note my 1st piece I did I ended up using a polyester net fabric the that was probably too thin or not stiff enough and ended up putting in a small imprint from the tube inlet; was able to iron and sand out sufficiently. On my 2nd piece I ended up using the netting that came with the bag and it actually gave the veneer a texture because of the netting. I think this was partially due to the quality of the veneer itself. I am going to try your method of using window screen. This has been a good learning process for me and again I appreciate your video that you provided.
Thank you for all the tips,never have done this and will need to do this on a dresser.
Thanks Janice, I'm glad you liked it!
Thanks for the video. Were blue tapes on the back side removed before gluing or stayed on?
Good info Jack. Thanks for taking the time to show the process.
Thanks for watching, Chuck.
hey charlie, nice video, ive never worked with veneer and your instructions were very good, i do have a 4x8 sheet of walnut that ive had for a long time, im waiting for the right project...thanks a bunch.
Thanks for watching. Wow, a single 4'x8' sheet of veneer, that's a big piece of veneer!
Very well explained, thank you very much.
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful!
Where do buy vacuum bags and vacuum pumps?
A good place to shop for vacuum bags and pumps is Veneer Supplies.com www.veneersupplies.com/categories/Vacuum__Press__Items/Vacuum__Press__Kits/
Thank you for this video. I have an antique desk that is in need of veneer replacement on the top.
Now I can do the work myself. I wont have to pay anyone else to do it and I will have a desk that I had a hand in repairing.
I'm glad to hear that! Let me know if you have any questions about that and I will try to help
@@JackbenchWoodworking Thank you very much.
Hello that was very easy to follow. Thank you. Just seeing this for the first time I know it's been on seven years. Do you take the blue tape off the back before putting in the vacuum bag? I didn't see you do that and I'm wondering if you leave it on.
Thanks! Yes, I did take the tape off before placing it into the bag, but I forgot to show that in the final edit.
Great video, would you be able to show how to do concave and convex surfaces? I have a piece that has both. Thank you
Thanks James! I'm not planning a video about convex/concave surfaces, but Scott Grove has an excellent video on just that and I highly recommend it: www.imaginegrove.com/veneering-curved-edges/
Wow...I learned quite a bit. Thanks
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful!
Charlie, Nice presentation. Liked the idea of the PSA on the square aluminum tube. Also liked you tape dispenser. Thought about the vacuum you used and hey it works!
Thanks Tom. Of course I learned all I know about veneering from Tom Schrunk!
Perfect! This is going to help me to restore an end table from Italy I had in my family for decades. Thanks for sharing.
Fantastic! Thanks.
What about veneering a piece as large as a door? Is it possible to buy longer pieces of veneer?
Absolutely! Veneer is readily available up to 9 or 10 feet long. Check out Certainly Wood. Com
Very good video. Great concise, detailed instructions. Just subscribe. Look forward to more.
Awesome, thank you!
Very good explanation. One of those things I always shied away from. Maybe I will give it a shot. Thanks for posting.
Thanks Neil, it is really not that difficult.
Hi Neil, I will be happy to answer any questions you might have when you are ready to give it a try, so don't hesitate to ask.
I have a set of speakers, they have a walnut verneer on them now that is in bad shape. can i glue new verneer to the old after i sand it? Can you do a video verneering verneer?
HI Tim,
You can definitely veneer over old veneer as long as it loose or falling off. All the best, Charlie
@@JackbenchWoodworking thanks for the reply.... maybe a good video for your channel
OK, the was very helpful. Thanks for making the video. Why do you use veneer tape not just the blue tape Thanks
That is an excellent question! The older masking tapes were difficult to remove after the veneer had been pressed. Lately, I have heard that some people are using just the "easy removal" masking tape. I plan to test this sometime in the near future. Thanks!
Is it possible to do an overlap joint and make one cut through the middle kind of like you would with wallpaper
Yes, that is possible. It might be easier to do that with a veneer saw, but certainly you can do it with a knife, too. I like your "name" Mr. Noneyabidness!
@@JackbenchWoodworking cool thanks. I'm going to give veneering" a try. Be nice to make a bird's eye top to a jewelry box, without having to use up dimensional lumber.
Great! Let me know how it goes.
@@JackbenchWoodworking 👍
This sounds a daft question, BUT, after sticking the veneer tape do you remove the blue tape from the glue side? Your video doesn't show that.
Hi Bob, sorry for the confusion. You're right. I did remove the blue tape, but I accidentally omitted that from the final edit.
Is a very nice explanation. thanks a lot. God bless you.
Thanks Jose
Net video, especially the pump. Hadn't seen that before and it appears to make the process more doable. What do you do though with edges, say if you wanted to use that MDF piece as a door? Do you fold the veneer or do you need to cut it and sand it just like the rest? Will the vacuum bag work for the edges just as well?
There are a few ways to finish the edges. One way is to cut small strips of veneer and glue them on. I usually iron them on. The process is to spread glue on both the edge of the board and the strip of veneer, then let the glue sit for at least 10 minutes. It's ok to let it sit overnight, too. Then apply the strip of veneer on to the edge and press it in place with a hot clothes iron. You can also glue small strips of hardwood to the edges. In this case, you would clamp them in place just like any other glue up.
I've been thinking about getting into veneer work. I noticed your bag was still rolled up at the end, does that not cause any issues? Looking at bags to buy, the incremental cost for one large bag vs a smaller bag makes it seem the large is the way to go. Especially if you can just leave the part you don't need rolled up.
Leaving the excess rolled up is not a problem. An oversized bag can be cumbersome, but if you plan to do larger projects, then that's the way to go.
Merhaba Vakum Pres in içinde kaç dakika bekliyor?
Excellent Tutorial! Thanks!
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the 101 veneering lesson. I've been wanting to see something like this for a while now. The last veneering I did was 30+ years ago and the veneer had a glue back that was ironed hot and that adhered it to the substrate.
Thanks John! I'm glad you liked the video.
could you please tell me if you know of a veneer that is not so fragile (doesnt crack or chip ) and is easier to work with..thank you..enjoyed like your video.
Thanks Mark. Figured woods are usually more difficult to work with. Usually a straight grained veneer is easier. Two of the most difficult veneers are white oak and wenge. Veneer softener helps, too. Like this: www.veneersupplies.com/products/Super-Soft-2-Veneer-Softener-Conditioner.html
thank you
Lovely job!
Very simple and useful. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
hey Jack, awesome video thanks !! I'd like to build a mahogany back gammon game and I'm thinking of veneering only the inside with cherry tree and other woods for the triangles. However I really don't want to veneer the exterior of the box as it seems pointless to veneer mahogany on mahogany... would you on anyone else have any tips to avoid warping when veneering only one side of small panels (40x50cm) of hard wood such as mahogany ? would the joints between different wood veneers on the inside design prevent warping by allowing a bit more play between the veneers ? thanks a lot !!! Stan
HI Stan, you definitely have to veneer both sides with man made sheet goods. But, veneering both sides is not always required when using solid wood as a substrate. If the mahogany that you're veneering on to is very thin, then I would suggest making a test piece on a similarly sized piece of scrap wood. If it is closer to 3/4" thick then you should be ok.
@@JackbenchWoodworking that's good news but I'll definetly make a test and let you know ! Thanks again 💪💪
This is something I have never tried as I always thought it was a complicated, intricate process that I thought I wasn't ready, or perhaps capable enough, to try. I might have to re-think that. Thanks for the information. I look forward to seeing some more.
Thanks! Basic veneering is really pretty easy.
Let me know if you have any questions when you are ready to give it a try!
Thanks, Charlie! I'll keep that in mind, but right now I'm deep into a couple of other projects.
my piece is not a perfect sq. is the top of a dresser. i can’t put a dresser in a bag 😂 right! so how do i go about repairing only sections of a piece!
As I understand it, you want to replace the veneer on just the top of the dresser. Is that right? Replacing veneer on just one side of an existing piece is a bit more difficult, but totally doable. One way might be to simply cut your new veneer to the approximate size or maybe a bit larger than needed. If the dresser is stout enough then you might be able to just weight it down after applying the glue. You would want to use "cauls"; a few sheets of plywood over the veneer with lots of weight applied evenly over the entire area. Be sure to put some wax paper between the veneer and the plywood to ensure that the veneer doesn't accidently get glued to the plywood. Another way would be to iron the veneer on, but I think using weight would be easier.
This was very helpful. I've never worked with veneer, so this will come in handy once I need to use it. Thanks.
Waylight Creations Thanks for watching, Ryan.
exactly,the only place i have where i live is lowes so the selection is limited. i picked out english chestnut.im hoping amber shellac will give it the orangeish tint im looking for. im sure you know how old pieces have a amber color. have you ever found a stain similar to match.on the back 1705 in big numbers and a 2 thats smaller is stamped.have any idea the meaning. thanks
Hi Chad, you might want to contact Certainly Wood. They are a very large and first class veneer supply house and they might be able to give you some personal help with the match. You might even be able to send them a sample and ask them if they can find a good match for you.
Is there any chance to veneering on steel? Like on comandantw grinder.. maybe you could suggest what glue or adhessive to make it stick
I haven't tried veneering onto steel, but I'm can't see why not! I think the easiest way would be to use thin coat of epoxy to glue it down. Recently, I've been spreading glue with a 1/32" toothed trowel and that seems to work very well. Of course, I would perform a test run before gluing the final piece.
Can you veneer directly on a door?
Yes, depending on the door. For sure you can veneer onto a solid core door, especially if it is flat without raised panels.
Jack you only use the screening on the top in the veneer bag, but not the bottom?
Good catch! My primary concern is allowing the air to reach the vacuum hose. But, you are right, it is best to put something on both sides. On a piece like this it is fairly easy to wrap a bath towel around the panel before placing it into the bag. Thanks!
Thank you so much. This tutorial was very informative.
You're very welcome!
I used blue tape in place of veneer tape on the show side. Everything worked pretty well when I placed the veneer on the substrate (inside of a kitchen cabinet door). But while the glue was drying under a towel pressed by a flat board and about 40 pound of old copper pennies, the veneer seems to have expanded so that there was about a 1 mm overlap at one of the seems. Also, there were a lot of gaps around the edge where the glue did not bond. I used a razor blade dipped in glue to work glue into the edge gaps, and to cut through the overlap (and work more glue under the veneer there). The result was full of ripple and a lot of unbonded interior areas. Looks OK after sanding, seems OK as long as you don't touch. I'm glad it's the inside surface of the cabinet where nobody will notice. Fantastic perfect video, blah blah blah, etc. Except you don't mention anything that can go wrong and how to fix or avoid it. I have a large supply of sheet mahogany left over to experiment with. It is all your fault for getting me started on this.
Hi Richard, I'm glad you liked the video. How to fix what can or might go wrong would be a very long video and sure enough, I would miss something. I can't say what happened with your project, but maybe the pennies didn't provide enough pressure and/or the pressure was uneven across the panel. Or, possibly the veneer moved while you were applying pressure. I've had good success using clamps on small to medium size panels. The trick with that is to use thick cauls to evenly distribute the pressure. Also, put a piece of wax paper over the panel to prevent it from sticking to the cauls.
Thank you JBW, I’ve learned quite a bit with this video.
tango down Glad to hear that this was helpful! I have a few other veneering videos on my channel and plan to add more sometime in the near future.
Hi im wondering why we need to veneer over solid wood? Will it cause stress to the wood? Solid wood needs to expand and contract. I thought veneer is a cheaper way to immitate real solid wood.
People veneer over solid wood for various reasons. One common example is veneering over drawer fronts. Doing this allows you to achieve a matched grain pattern across all drawers, while leaving the solid wood look when the drawers are opened. It is "possible" to have wood movement issues when veneering over solid wood, but it's a fairly common practice and I've never had a problem with it.
Awesome how to vlog Charlie, looking forward to the rest of the veneering series!
Thanks, I am glad you liked it!
great video, i buy this titebond cold pressed venner glue, i wanna know if it is possible to glue this venner to a plastic surface with this ? thanks !
HI, sorry that I didn't see your comment right away. No, pva glue is not good for plastic. It's difficult to glue plastic. Depending on the type and surface texture of the plastic you might be ok with epoxy or maybe polyurethane glue. Definitely test it ahead of time to be sure that it works.
Might sound dumb but I noticed that the veneer did not go all the way to the edge. Was there a reason
HI Michael, you can apply the veneer to an exact sized substrate, but it's nice to leave a little wiggle room in case it slips.
I would recommend that beginners do a piece of scrap before working on a serious piece. Note that Titebond glue can be instantly set by application of heat from an iron. The “cotton” setting is hot enough.
HI Richard, I always do a test piece with any new technique. Absolutely, yes a hot iron is a great way to adhere edgebanding and small pieces of veneer.
Such a nice video and wonderfully explained. Thank you very much!
Thank you!
Fantastic tutorial 👏🏻⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️…subbed
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Can I put several sheets of veneer over each others and glue them to make a bending form that I wasn't able to achieve using normal solid wood ?
Yes, you can definitely laminate veneer together to make curved pieces. Since most wood glue is water based it can cause the veneer to expand when it is applied. It is generally ok to use water based glue, but get it into the clamps quickly to minimize this effect. Also, I recommend using either Better Bond or Unibond One because the veneer will hold its shape better with them than with regular wood glue. Another good option would be polyurethane glue (Gorilla glue) because it is not water based. If you choose polyurethane glue, then be sure to practice on scrap material before using it on your final project. Resin glues are exceptionally good for laminating, but again, they are water based and can cause the veneer to move.
Jack Bench Woodworking thanks you so much for helping, and what’s about using epoxy ? Wouldn’t make it much more harder ? Or it’s stupid idea for sone reasons?
Not stupid at all! Epoxy is a good choice.
Thanks for the video! Very clear.
Just to check, do you glue the masking tape pieces under the veneer? Presumably after sanding there is no noticeable bump?
Thanks again!
Thanks Sam, I'm glad you liked the video. My apologies, I forgot to include the part where I removed the blue tape before gluing it to the substrate.
Nicely done! I have an 'antique' (1953) Hammond C2 organ that has a curved strip of mahogany veneer missing (the curve is in one plane only). I obviously can't use a vacuum bag. Any ideas on how best to apply sufficient pressure to the curved surface? Thanks!
It's hard to say without seeing it, but I might try hide glue. Or, use regular wood glue (pva) and secure it with a light caul and elastic bands.
I have a picture, but there's no way to display it here...doggone it!! This is a 450-lb. organ console, and where the missing piece is, isn't going to lend itself to rubber bands or clamps! Maybe you can see it via this link: facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151777715159272&set=a.10151777715019272.1073741829.680239271&type=3&theater
The missing piece is on the left side of the keyboard, and is pretty obvious...especially when compared to the right side. If you have a minute, please take a quick look and see if any ideas spring to mind. Thank you!
Norm Jacques Glad you added the photo. That's an easy fix. Appy a heavy coat of Tightbond II to the organ and on the piece of veneer that you want to apply. Wait until the glue is almost dry, 10-15 minutes. Then place the veneer onto the organ and heat it with a clothes iron. Set the iron on a medium/high heat. Move the iron along as the veneer/ glue heat up. Follow the iron with a board to press and cool the veneer as you go. The heat from the iron will help the veneer to bend over the curve. Trim the excess after it cools. Of course it's a good idea to practice with scraps before attempting the actual repair.
Thank you, Charlie! I never would have thought of using an iron! Fortunately, the veneer package I bought has way more than I need, so I will definitely do a couple of test runs. I can simulate the curves on the bandsaw with some 2X stock. I'll let you know how I do with it. Thanks again!
Let me know how it turns out!
Was looking to use veneer on a bulkhead on a boat.. Could I do it without the vacum ?
Other ways to press veneer are with clamps or a screw press. The larger the piece is the more difficult it is to press it with clamps. If there are any woodworking organizations in your area then maybe you can find someone who would let you use their vacuum press. Someone in the area might even have a screw press.
Thanks for your reply regarding where you shop for veneers. I especially enjoyed the joewoodworker link on Veneer Supplies. Very informative. Which leads me to one more question….was the mahogany veneer you used on the video paper backed? It looked very sturdy. As mentioned before your videos are super! Thanks again
HI Norman, I hardly ever use paper backed veneers and the ones in this video weren't paper backed either. I recently had the opportunity to meet Joe at veneer supplies and he's a really great guy.
Very detailed and comprehensive! Thanks for sharing
Glad you liked it, David!
Thanks for the great vid! I'm going to try some larger pieces when I do my garage cabinets.
Thanks, I'm glad to hear that my video was helpful to you!
Born teacher. Thanks for a great vid.
Hi, Charlie was hoping you could give me some helpful advice on book matching. BTW love your videos I find them extremely helpful. I'm a novice when it comes to book matching. Here my question I have 2 door panels I'm trying to veneer. the demensions of the panels are 19 3/4in high by 16" wide cut out of 1/4 maple plywood. I bought two packs of 4 way book matched maple burl trouble is the veneer is only 18" in length and 8" wide. I was hope to make a book match in the front and another in the back out of one package (this isn't going to happen anymore). One way I thought of handling this situation is to book match all 4 pieces and place it the center of the door panel but that seems like an awful lot of waste. How would you handle this situation? Obiviously, I'm an 1 3/4 short on the length. If you could give me your ideas it would be most appreciated. Thanks Charlie and keep making those great videos! Best Phil Cusimano
HI Phil, Thanks for the kind words. I really appreciate it. Personally, I think the best option is to make a 4-way book match out of the pieces that you have. Of course we hate to lose any of that nice (and sometimes expensive) veneer, but I would rather buy a little more if that's what it takes for me to be satisfied with the final result. You may have already seen it, but I did a video on how to do a 4-way match: ua-cam.com/video/SyIgw0udsT4/v-deo.html Best of luck, and don't hesitate to contact me again. Charlie
Hi Charlie, just be honest about your videos. Way ahead of you, I had seen your video on 4-way book matching a few months back. That video is what made me think about veneering the doors to my project, I figured it would add a nice touch to my project. Since I value your opinion that's the way I'm going to go, I'll make a 4-way book match which will get me one paneled door, and in the meantime, I'll just order two more packs of 4-way book match to handle the other door. Wishing me luck! thanks for getting back to me so quickly its much appreciated. Keep on making those great videos Charlie!
Thanks Phil, I would love to see your panels when they are done. Can you send me some photos?
For sure Charlie, why not I can send you photos. Just finished the rails and stiles out of walnut this morning, also cut the panels. Sketch up is a wonderful thing. Do have another question for you when flatting out the veneer with Veneer Glycerine is it necessary to put one veneer sheet at a time under plattens (sp?) or can you put all 4 Veneer sheets under pressure at the same time? Thanks Charlie.
HI Phil, after spraying the softener on you can place paper towels between the sheets of veneer and press them all at once between two cauls/platens.
Do you have some websites I can buy it from? I need to cover a drywalled that looks like a beam.
Certainly Wood is one of my favorite sites for buying veneer: certainlywood.com/
Where do you get the vacuum bag?
I got it at veneersupplies.com It's a real one stop shop for veneer supplies.
Jack Bench Woodworking
Thanks, I’ll check it out.👍
Really enjoyed your informative video. Now I know where to start using veneer. Thanks.
Thanks Kathleen, I'm glad you liked it. I have other videos on veneer and plan to upload a few more later this year.
Some great information Charlie. I also have never seen the trick with the sanding bar for jointing the edges. I will definitely try that on my next veneer project which is coming up pretty soon. Thanks so much for putting this video together!
Thanks Guy. I think jointing the edges with sandpaper helps to get tighter seams.
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@@JackbenchWoodworking what grit of sandpaper did you use on the aluminum tubing?
@@darrendirk4427 Hi Darren, 120 grit works pretty well for sanding the edges of veneer.
I wish I would have watched this A LOOOOONG time ago! Great video!
Thanks Nate!!!
Jack Bench Woodworking one thing: do you take the tape off the side that you glue down? I didn't see that part.
Nathan Duitch Yes, remove the tape from the glue side before pressing the veneer to the substrate
Hi Jack, I respect your clarity of instruction!
About the blue painter’s tape contacting the substrate, does it cause any unevenness or bumps to show through on the show side when completed? Thank you!
Hi again, I found your answer to my question in the comments thread. Thank you!
Thanks Daniel! Sorry about the confusion on the tape.
Thank you very much for this video. Very helpful.
Thanks Jason, I'm glad you liked it!
Awesome work! I'm new to this and I am going to attempt veneering a vintage Yamaha receiver cabinet once I gain a little more confidence.
Go for it!
Hi, I'm totally new to the concept of using veneer, and I was just wondering why it's so important to keep it in sequence? What would happen if you were to just grab pieces at random and apply them?
Great video by the way, you've earned yourself a new subscriber!!
HI John, two sheets of veneer that are together in the sequence will be nearly identical. The further they get away from each other the less likely that they will match each other. Very often this is irrelevant. But, sometimes I want to put two (or more) matching pieces together. In this case, it is important to keep track of the sequence. My video on 4-way book matching will explain it better: ua-cam.com/video/SyIgw0udsT4/v-deo.html
Very helpful for this beginner.
Thanks Dave, I'm glad it was helpful to you!
What about the edges of your panel?
The two most common ways to cover the edges of a veneered panel are to:
1 - Glue similar hardwood strips to the edges of the panel and then apply the veneer to the faces.
2 - Glue strips of veneer to the edges of the panel. Often this is done by applying glue to the surfaces and then ironing them on after the glue dries.
I have a Lane cedar chest from 1950 that I would love to restore but what stops me is having to balance the veneer. I want to replace the awful old veneer on the outside but leave the cedar interior alone. Would the wood panels still warp if new veneer was applied?
HI Lori,
If the panels are solid wood then it will probably be ok. It's more critical to balance both sides when veneering sheet goods like plywood or mdf.
@@JackbenchWoodworking Thanks. I just might give it a go. I think veneer would look much better than staining the wood underneath.
Let me know how it turns out!
Question: Can you veneer over a 1/4" round over, or a chanfered edge. What about a routed edge with a profile? Or do you have to terminate the veneer at a 90 degree edge? Then what, use hardwood edge-banding (or hardwood strips on the edges)?
HI Randy, heating veneer with an iron will allow it to bend. It is possible, with extra effort, to veneer over a 1/4" round over and possibly a chamfered edge, too. There are advanced techniques for veneering over (some) profiles, too.
Great video on the basics of veneers, just what I needed! Question: What's your take on PSA Veneer? Can it hold up in a kitchen cabinet face environment? Thanks!
HI Dan, I haven't used PSA veneer. My guess is that it's "OK", but I wonder if it would have adhesion issues. I have used iron on veneer for edgebanding and it works great for that. I'm not sure how well iron on would work over large areas, though.
Not sure if you've done one on how to apply a wood veneer to a round living room coffee table
Hi Ray, I think you're referring to a radial pattern. I haven't done a video on that, but Scott Grove did a video with Matt Cremona on that. They are both great guys and Scott is a master veneer artist. You can see their video here: ua-cam.com/video/vL_gNRKQSVE/v-deo.html
@@JackbenchWoodworking thanks. I'm a complete amateur on veneers and I probably pick the worst project to start with. I have a 10 mil 24 by 96 sheet I need to cut. Appreciate the referral
I never saw you remove the painters tape from the back before you glued. You didn't really leave it on did you? I watched twice and can't figure it out.
I missed that when I was editing the video. Yes, I did remove the blue tape before I pressed the panel on to the substrate. Sorry for the confusion.