I enjoyed that, Rob. You have a very pleasant and accepting on-camera personality. I learned a lot about the intricacies of veneering, even though this was my first time. Thank you.
I like the idea that we have two approaches to applying veneer, the craftsman's way and the easier way (two choices of application). While both are great starting points for beginners, I would like to see you demonstrate how the applications work on existing furniture. As you know, furniture comes in all shapes and sizes. The contours of the furniture can be difficult to maneuver around.
I've restored several VERY old pieces that, seventy years in, had damaged veneers. They, ALL, were solid wood with veneer. Just sayin. P.S. Thanks for another helpful video. It's been great hanging out around you all these decades. ;)
Can you glue up shorter length 6" wide or so veneers together to make them longer this way? I am thinking of a veneer that goes over an 8ft door stile, but I can't slice 8ft long veneers, maybe 4ft at best. So if I could glue up two 4ft by 6" wide veneers (1/8" or so thick) this way and assuming then gluing to the faces of door stiles (stave core door) that would be great.
We paper-hangers lap the edge of the latest course over the top of the one previous and draw a razor knife through them both - it does not have to be perfectly straight. Pull back the top course, strip off the "tail" of the one beneath, then remove the tail of the top piece too. When they are pressed together their edges are perfectly matched. We also apply paste to the back of the paper as well as to the wall.
This clamping method should do the job perfectly fine. Using a J-roller may force the glue to strike through and leave glue spots on the face of the veneer.
I've got a 1948 RCA television set. It's a huge metal chassis that sits inside a thick real wood case. The problem is that the veneer has started peeling or is bubbled/chipped in multiple areas. The set currently does not function as it needs a full wax capacitor replacement and that is its own can of worms but if I get it working, I would like to attempt a re-veneer of the existing cabinet or construct and veneer a new example.
I like the roll tip. I have spread too much glue using the brush making the glue to bleed through the veneer grain and stain the viewable side. Unfortunately I don't have cold press glue available so I have to work with Titebond original. I'll try and see if it solve my problems.
I want to had Walnut burl veneer as an accent on my fireplace mantle. And I was thinking of doing a bit of a pattern with different colours of wood. I'm assuming that mounting it onto a thin board. It has to be rather thin or the burl parts will protrude from the mantle face. I have less than a quarter inch, maybe more like1/8th of an inch. I'm guessing taping the design together and mounting right onto the mantle is a bad idea!! But how do people mount veneer to walls?? I've never done this but I'm itching to give it a try!! Do you have any suggestions? ps If I totally bomb, I may do a mosaic instead!! lol What I really want to do Walnut!!!!!! Help!
I've done a lot of veneering in yachts where clamping is not possible, so in that case, contact adhesive is a great option. Apply glue on veneer and work piece, let it dry for the time needed and carefully start gluing it on and flatten with your hand. After that I go over it with a rubber roller.
Thanks for the info and the demonstration on applying veneer. One question though, Rob, what did you use to trim the extra, overhanging veneer? Will a veneer trim/jig be sufficient or will it tear the veneer? Or is there some other tool that was used? Thanks!! 👍
From Rob - In the case of this video, I was able to cut the veneer to the edges of the substrate with a sharp shop knife and then cut the panel to actual size on the table saw. Trimming the veneer to the edge of a panel is easy to do with a sharp knife on a hard surface. Be aware of the grain, cut “with” the grain on the long edges where the grain is running away from the edge. Trimming across the grain at the end of the panel is easy. I’ve seen folks use a flush trim bit employing a climb cut (moving the piece with the rotation of the bit) for these tasks and it seems to work. I have not tried it.
Is it better if you apply your veneer first to your plywood before turning it to a furniture? Because veneering a a furniture sometimes is very tricky.
Hi there, veneering a larger workpiece and then cutting it into the actual part size or sizes you need can save effort on the veneering process, but the compromise would be wasting veneer. You'll have to determine what the greater benefit is.
How do you feel about iron on veneer? I have an old bureau that has very damaged veneer on the inside, Mostly from terrible dark varnish sinking into it and the colour doesn’t match the outside. I wouldn’t be able to put it in a press like you used, so could I just put iron on veneer on top?
Iron-on veneer would likely work on the inside of a bureau. The challenge would be preparing the surface to be smooth and contaminant-free. If you can achieve that goal, the iron-on should work fine. Another solution might be veneer with pressure-sensitive adhesive. It would be less work, but the adhesive may release with age.
You could, but the cost of a whole second veneer vs. some tape and a thin bead of glue, is much higher. Not to mention more work and risk involved if the veneers want to separate or shift in the long run.
Hi Alex, this presents a very difficult problem and, really, there are no perfect answers. Likely, the most practical way for you to fix the drawers is by using a paper-backed veneer and applying it to the drawer faces with contact cement. Pay close attention to the edges of the drawer front, filing the veneer back at a slight chamfer.
@@rockler thank you for your reply! They are serpentine drawers and unfortunately I don't think I am skilled enough. Will have to weigh my options of hiring a professional or paint. Not sure it is valuable enough for the cost associated with restoration. 😔
great video, i buy this titebond cold pressed venner glue, i wanna know if it is possible to glue this venner to a plastic surface with this ? thanks !
The platen needs to be flat and not be able to stick to glue if it gets on it. Perhaps use a sheet of wax paper between the veneer and platen. Or maybe you could try covering the mdf or plywood platen in sheathing tape.
The platen is meant to be very smooth with no defects, to not damage the veneer when clamped. Glue shouldn't be able to stick to the material as well, so that any squeeze out or glue contact that may occur, won't damage the veneer when it is removed after clamping. What we meant was that if you use plywood or mdf as the platen, put a sheet or two of wax paper between it and the veneer or completely cover the plywood or mdf with sheathing tape. The sheathing tape method would need to be applied very carefully so that each seam is right up against the opposing strip, with no overlap or gap. The gap could let glue get on the ply or mdf and damage the veneer when trying to remove it. Overlap in the tape could make a ridge or dent in the veneer when clamped. Hope that clarifies things.
Great question, and one we have almost no experience with, but even so, here is our best advice. First, sand the surface of the board smooth and clean. The challenge will be firmly clamping the veneer in place as the adhesive cures. Making a clamping caul that matches the shape of the skateboard face would be the best way to do it, but it is a bit tricky to execute. Another way to do that would be to make three (or perhaps more) clamping cauls that will apply pressure on the entire face of the skateboard. Last piece of advice we have is the adhesive. The veneer on the board will take a beating. Our advice is to use epoxy resin (www.rockler.com/mas-table-top-pro-epoxy) as the adhesive for the veneer. In addition, that product would be a very good top coat finish for the veneer. Good luck!
Hi Charisma, we recommend reaching out to our Product Support team at 1-800-260-9663 or support@rockler.com. They may be able to assist you. Thank you!
Please help me with some advice. I have a custom made melamine chipboard cabinet and it is difficult and expensive to replace it with another custom made wooden cabinet. That's why I'm thinking of applying veneer directly on melamine. I know it can be applied on chipboard but I need your advice if it can be applied on melamine. Maybe another adhesive should be used. This is a DIY work. Thank You. By the way, it is great your demonstration. I like your workshop.
Hi Adrian, applying veneer to a melamine surface is far less than an optional situation. Without seeing the cabinet and knowing how large it is makes this advice even more difficult. One thing you can do is sand the melamine surface off and get down to the core material. Then a cold press veneer adhesive or a regular white glue will work just fine. If you’d like a quick fix but one that is not as durable, you could apply paper-backed veneer and use contact adhesive to secure it to the cabinet. It is not ideal, but it would get the job done quickly and would look pretty good.
@@rocklerHello and thank you for your answer.. I found an adhesive named Titebond Melamine Glue. The producer says that it will bond extremelly strong the pieces of melamine, wood, etc. So, I'm thinking that it will work well. To sand the pieces, is a good solution, but locally for me is more expensive than to buy new replica of genuine pieces of chipboards without melamine. On the question regarding how large are the parts of the cabinet, I could say the the average piece is something about 24" x 30". What do you think about this aproach with Titebond Melamine Glue?
Almost nothing sticks to melamine. The melamine on your cupboards is very thin (like paper). What you can do is use a belt sander, or vibrating orbital sander, to remove the melamine. At that point, it will look ugly, but the veneer and glue will stick to the partical board underneathe the melamine coating after the melamine is removed.
@@samuelmuldoon4839 Thank you. I used a sander and removed the first layer of the melamine. After that I applied by Titebond Melamine Glue the veneer and pressed into a press. The method works very well. Before those works I done a test in two cases - first the veneer applied by Titebond Melamine Glue directly on melamine without any sander and second by the method described on the beggining. In the case when I tried to glue the veneer directly on the melamine, the result was very bad, but in the second test, probably, removing the first layer of melamine, I created a porosity on melamine which has contribute to a very strong adherence between melamine and veneer. So, maybe my experience could help other guys which like DIY. Best regards.
thanks for the great tutorial. I wanted to ask if i have a sort of engrave in the wood panel like engraved shapes or something. will i still be able to veneer it ?
If you want to engrave through the veneer, the answer is yes, it can be done. But the surface below the veneer would be exposed. Most commercially sold veneer is about 1/16” thick, so engraving within the thickness of the veneer is possible, but is very delicate work. You can inlay various pieces of differently colored veneer within a larger veneered area or panel. It can be as simple as a geometric shape or as complicated as an entire picture created from shaped veneer pieces (that technique is called marquetry).
Great question! First, you will need to find some veneer that matches the species and figure pattern in the veneer you are patching. You can find packs of veneer in our retail locations or on our website. Next, we recommend making a template from thin stock to match with the new veneer. Cut out the shape on the furniture and scrape the substrate clean. When you have the shape of the new veneer matching the shape that you’ve removed from the furniture, you can simply glue it in place with liquid hide glue or white glue, but before you do, determine if the veneer is thicker than the existing veneer or thinner. If you find it to be thinner, you will need to build up the void so the veneer is proud of the surface when glued in place. Scrape or sand it flush. Then, you need to use the remaining “scrap” veneer to test staining and finishing the veneer to match the look of the piece of furniture’s finish. Leave the patch of raw wood until you get a suitable look on the scrap veneer, then stain and finish the veneer patch. You may need to use pore filler to help hide the edges of the patch, but again, you will probably not be able to perfectly hide the patch. An expert furniture restorer with experience might be able to do that, but us mere mortals will need to be satisfied with less than perfection.
Hi Jayne, oriented strand board is really intended to be building or subfloor sheathing and not a product for woodworking. It has a coarse, uneven surface that will likely telegraph through thin wood veneer. MDF is a better sheet goods choice for veneering. Or use a veneered plywood instead. Either option will provide the super smooth surface you need for high-quality veneering.
Hi Chris, when you sand the veneer for finishing you will remove the adhesive residue. You can also scrub it off with some paint thinner and a fine synthetic “scratchy” pad.
The edges of the panel can be treated in a few ways. If the panel is captured in a frame and panel, they can be left uncovered. You can glue solid lumber around the perimeter of the panel and lay the veneer over that edging. This means taking into account trimming the panel to size. You can also use iron on premade veneer tape, or you can make your own iron-on strips. Lastly you could glue a molding or other type of edging around the panel, of the same species as the veneer or a complementary species.
Could you please try applying veneer (single sheet) on a drum? Any wooden drum will do. I need to do it to hide all filled holes and am quite not confident about doing that... Thanks!
This was really helpful. I have to make inset cabinet doors and plan to use veneer and mdf. I’d like to surround the MDF perimeter with a thin band of solid wood, then veneer over the entire substrate. I have no experience whatsoever. Dies this seem like a feesible approach?
How about buying veneered MDF and edge band it yourself with solid wood. I guess this will save both time and money and the result will be same. What did you end up doing then?
Most wooden looking IKEA furniture is veneered. Mdf is perfect as it's super stable, just need to choose the right adhesive based on the surface you're applying it to.
Hi, instead of veneering the bottom could you paint it to seal it? Also how do you trim the edges. I have not had good luck with hand held edge trimmers. Great video thank you
Dont need to veneer the bottom. That's a stupid rumor based on a woodworking magazine. The veneer cant bow any panel as it's expansion and contraction is negligible. Its only the moisture from the glue which can lead to bow. Use other kind of glue like plastic resin or contact cement and you'll never get any bow. (No need to veneer the other side)
You can attach a 1/4 inch square, round piece of scrap or plexiglass, or in a pinch, sneak into the kitchen and swipe the cutting board. A larger base will add stability until you get used to it.
I've come here after watching a few videos of people veneering diy speakers. I always wondered if they were using the right technique. I had my doubts. I was right. The videos I've seen they were doing it all wrong.
The cupboards in my kitchen have oak faces, but the side of the cupboards are partical board. Some of the partical board sides are exposed (visible) I purchased veneer to put on the exposed sides of my existing kitchen cupboards there is no easy way to clamp it on.
Everything worked well until my waxed platen transferred wax to my raw wood veneer. Down in the grain. Impossible to stain. A VERY thin coat of wax, rubbed out very well.
ummmmm. when you "wipe the glue into the joint" you are pushing all the glue into the grain of the wood so when you finish it.. you will see all the glue. Having veneered many projects, I can say there is no need to glue the joint, just put it in the press.
For trimming: Use a light weight trim router, $20-40 dollars. A flush cut bit with bearing on the end. Lightly sand the whole thing and apply sealer and/or stain.
I enjoyed that, Rob. You have a very pleasant and accepting on-camera personality. I learned a lot about the intricacies of veneering, even though this was my first time. Thank you.
💙
Fantastic job explaining it for everyone! Thank you for your contribution to the community!
I like the idea that we have two approaches to applying veneer, the craftsman's way and the easier way (two choices of application). While both are great starting points for beginners, I would like to see you demonstrate how the applications work on existing furniture. As you know, furniture comes in all shapes and sizes. The contours of the furniture can be difficult to maneuver around.
Thanks Rob, from Lisbon! you are a great and kind teacher!
Learned a lot. Wish i saw this yesterday. I did most of these things minus the parts that you made look easy. I know now moving forward. Thanks!
I've restored several VERY old pieces that, seventy years in, had damaged veneers. They, ALL, were solid wood with veneer.
Just sayin.
P.S. Thanks for another helpful video. It's been great hanging out around you all these decades. ;)
Very well-thought out and helpful presentation that isn’t only going to save my project but transform it, thank you.
Great and informative.
Right to the point with no stupid jokes or extra monolog
Thanks for watching!
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to explain how it's done.
Thx for posting Rob, an excellent tutorial👌
I still feel a bit in over my head, but wow this man inspires confidence. Appreciate the tutorial. Here I go...
looks great when screwed with galvanized square steel
Can you glue up shorter length 6" wide or so veneers together to make them longer this way? I am thinking of a veneer that goes over an 8ft door stile, but I can't slice 8ft long veneers, maybe 4ft at best. So if I could glue up two 4ft by 6" wide veneers (1/8" or so thick) this way and assuming then gluing to the faces of door stiles (stave core door) that would be great.
Excellent video - the curved batten or veneer taped in center is brilliant.
Thank you so much, you gave a very detailed teaching♥♥
Thanks for watching!
Great demonstration, there were a few things I would have never thought of, very informative. Thanks!
Thank you. You mentioned "waxed masonite" What wax do you use on the masonite?
Any kind of paste wax will work just fine.
What do you put on the exposed sides if you’re putting veneer on a table
you would probably put edge banding, which is veneer with a thin width meant for the edges of boards
We paper-hangers lap the edge of the latest course over the top of the one previous and draw a razor knife through them both - it does not have to be perfectly straight. Pull back the top course, strip off the "tail" of the one beneath, then remove the tail of the top piece too. When they are pressed together their edges are perfectly matched. We also apply paste to the back of the paper as well as to the wall.
If I put this on plywood that has small hump, will you still feel it.
Would using a "J" roller on the veneer before putting the panel in the press help any?
This clamping method should do the job perfectly fine. Using a J-roller may force the glue to strike through and leave glue spots on the face of the veneer.
I've got a 1948 RCA television set. It's a huge metal chassis that sits inside a thick real wood case. The problem is that the veneer has started peeling or is bubbled/chipped in multiple areas. The set currently does not function as it needs a full wax capacitor replacement and that is its own can of worms but if I get it working, I would like to attempt a re-veneer of the existing cabinet or construct and veneer a new example.
Sounds cool!
I like the roll tip. I have spread too much glue using the brush making the glue to bleed through the veneer grain and stain the viewable side. Unfortunately I don't have cold press glue available so I have to work with Titebond original. I'll try and see if it solve my problems.
Hopefully this helps! Thanks for watching. 🙌
Thank you for teaching me this I found this so interesting!!!!
a wonderful presentation that is full of detail with comprehensive explanation and information
I want to had Walnut burl veneer as an accent on my fireplace mantle. And I was thinking of doing a bit of a pattern with different colours of wood. I'm assuming that mounting it onto a thin board. It has to be rather thin or the burl parts will protrude from the mantle face. I have less than a quarter inch, maybe more like1/8th of an inch. I'm guessing taping the design together and mounting right onto the mantle is a bad idea!! But how do people mount veneer to walls?? I've never done this but I'm itching to give it a try!! Do you have any suggestions?
ps If I totally bomb, I may do a mosaic instead!! lol What I really want to do Walnut!!!!!! Help!
Very clear demonstration.
How do you apply veneer as a replacement.
I've done a lot of veneering in yachts where clamping is not possible, so in that case, contact adhesive is a great option. Apply glue on veneer and work piece, let it dry for the time needed and carefully start gluing it on and flatten with your hand. After that I go over it with a rubber roller.
Got any pics of your yacht work?
Thanks for the info and the demonstration on applying veneer. One question though, Rob, what did you use to trim the extra, overhanging veneer? Will a veneer trim/jig be sufficient or will it tear the veneer? Or is there some other tool that was used?
Thanks!! 👍
From Rob - In the case of this video, I was able to cut the veneer to the edges of the substrate with a sharp shop knife and then cut the panel to actual size on the table saw.
Trimming the veneer to the edge of a panel is easy to do with a sharp knife on a hard surface. Be aware of the grain, cut “with” the grain on the long edges where the grain is running away from the edge. Trimming across the grain at the end of the panel is easy. I’ve seen folks use a flush trim bit employing a climb cut (moving the piece with the rotation of the bit) for these tasks and it seems to work. I have not tried it.
@rockler ... thanks Rob!
Is it better if you apply your veneer first to your plywood before turning it to a furniture? Because veneering a a furniture sometimes is very tricky.
Hi there, veneering a larger workpiece and then cutting it into the actual part size or sizes you need can save effort on the veneering process, but the compromise would be wasting veneer. You'll have to determine what the greater benefit is.
How do you feel about iron on veneer? I have an old bureau that has very damaged veneer on the inside,
Mostly from terrible dark varnish sinking into it and the colour doesn’t match the outside. I wouldn’t be able to put it in a press like you used, so could I just put iron on veneer on top?
Iron-on veneer would likely work on the inside of a bureau. The challenge would be preparing the surface to be smooth and contaminant-free. If you can achieve that goal, the iron-on should work fine. Another solution might be veneer with pressure-sensitive adhesive. It would be less work, but the adhesive may release with age.
Can't you press a raw wood veneer to a PSA veneer, using the PSA to join them together?
You could, but the cost of a whole second veneer vs. some tape and a thin bead of glue, is much higher. Not to mention more work and risk involved if the veneers want to separate or shift in the long run.
What if I want like 1” on the outter perimeter to not have veneer?
Your best options would be to inlay the veneer or veneer the edges with the same wood as the base.
Really enjoyed your presentation.Great job. Keep up the Great Work!
Thku
For the final trimming around the edges , did you use the block planer?
very nicely explained. I was wondering if anyone uses contact cement as the glue?
no
I used a stripper on an antique dresser and it ruined the veneer! How would I do this on the curved drawers?
Hi Alex, this presents a very difficult problem and, really, there are no perfect answers. Likely, the most practical way for you to fix the drawers is by using a paper-backed veneer and applying it to the drawer faces with contact cement. Pay close attention to the edges of the drawer front, filing the veneer back at a slight chamfer.
@@rockler thank you for your reply! They are serpentine drawers and unfortunately I don't think I am skilled enough. Will have to weigh my options of hiring a professional or paint. Not sure it is valuable enough for the cost associated with restoration. 😔
Exactly video I’m looking for, thank for help
Glad it helped! 🙌
great video, i buy this titebond cold pressed venner glue, i wanna know if it is possible to glue this venner to a plastic surface with this ? thanks !
Hi there! To the best of our knowledge, veneer will not adhere to plastic.
@@rockler thanks for your respond! there is no way to do it ...? thanks!
This is a great video; super clear instruction. Thanks for sharing! Cheers, Paul
can this last for 10,000 years?
We'll let you know in 9,994 years.
Very nice! If i don't have access to this platin, is it also okay to use mdf or plywood?
The platen needs to be flat and not be able to stick to glue if it gets on it. Perhaps use a sheet of wax paper between the veneer and platen. Or maybe you could try covering the mdf or plywood platen in sheathing tape.
@rockler oh got it, but paper is really thin, the platin doesn't act as additional "squeeze" power? It's purpose is only to prevent glue sticking?
The platen is meant to be very smooth with no defects, to not damage the veneer when clamped. Glue shouldn't be able to stick to the material as well, so that any squeeze out or glue contact that may occur, won't damage the veneer when it is removed after clamping. What we meant was that if you use plywood or mdf as the platen, put a sheet or two of wax paper between it and the veneer or completely cover the plywood or mdf with sheathing tape. The sheathing tape method would need to be applied very carefully so that each seam is right up against the opposing strip, with no overlap or gap. The gap could let glue get on the ply or mdf and damage the veneer when trying to remove it. Overlap in the tape could make a ridge or dent in the veneer when clamped. Hope that clarifies things.
Thank you very much! Extremely helpful!
You're welcome.
How can we glue a veneer on a longboard skate ? 🤔
Great question, and one we have almost no experience with, but even so, here is our best advice. First, sand the surface of the board smooth and clean. The challenge will be firmly clamping the veneer in place as the adhesive cures. Making a clamping caul that matches the shape of the skateboard face would be the best way to do it, but it is a bit tricky to execute. Another way to do that would be to make three (or perhaps more) clamping cauls that will apply pressure on the entire face of the skateboard.
Last piece of advice we have is the adhesive. The veneer on the board will take a beating. Our advice is to use epoxy resin (www.rockler.com/mas-table-top-pro-epoxy) as the adhesive for the veneer. In addition, that product would be a very good top coat finish for the veneer. Good luck!
@@rockler Thank you, this is very precious ! Continue your video, I love it !
Excellent video and great channel!
Super good demo. Thank you.
Can you link the type of veneer you used? Thank you.
Here is the link www.rockler.com/domestic-3-square-foot-veneer-packs
So how do I glue thinner veneer strips to my ceiling?
Hi Charisma, we recommend reaching out to our Product Support team at 1-800-260-9663 or support@rockler.com. They may be able to assist you. Thank you!
May be waterproofed???
Hi, Please reach out to our product support team at 1-800-260-9663 or support@rockler.com. They'll be able to assist you. Thank you
Can you stain and varnish veneer panels?
Yes! After they are applied, you can stain and finish them as you would any project.
@@rockler
Thanks
Fantastic Video!!! I learned a lot. Thanks !
ECO FRIENDLY WOOD VENEER!!! 🗣🗣🗣🔥🔥🔥🔥💯💯💯‼️‼️
Please help me with some advice. I have a custom made melamine chipboard cabinet and it is difficult and expensive to replace it with another custom made wooden cabinet. That's why I'm thinking of applying veneer directly on melamine. I know it can be applied on chipboard but I need your advice if it can be applied on melamine. Maybe another adhesive should be used. This is a DIY work. Thank You. By the way, it is great your demonstration. I like your workshop.
Hi Adrian, applying veneer to a melamine surface is far less than an optional situation. Without seeing the cabinet and knowing how large it is makes this advice even more difficult.
One thing you can do is sand the melamine surface off and get down to the core material. Then a cold press veneer adhesive or a regular white glue will work just fine. If you’d like a quick fix but one that is not as durable, you could apply paper-backed veneer and use contact adhesive to secure it to the cabinet. It is not ideal, but it would get the job done quickly and would look pretty good.
@@rocklerHello and thank you for your answer.. I found an adhesive named Titebond Melamine Glue. The producer says that it will bond extremelly strong the pieces of melamine, wood, etc. So, I'm thinking that it will work well. To sand the pieces, is a good solution, but locally for me is more expensive than to buy new replica of genuine pieces of chipboards without melamine. On the question regarding how large are the parts of the cabinet, I could say the the average piece is something about 24" x 30".
What do you think about this aproach with Titebond Melamine Glue?
Almost nothing sticks to melamine. The melamine on your cupboards is very thin (like paper). What you can do is use a belt sander, or vibrating orbital sander, to remove the melamine. At that point, it will look ugly, but the veneer and glue will stick to the partical board underneathe the melamine coating after the melamine is removed.
@@samuelmuldoon4839 Thank you. I used a sander and removed the first layer of the melamine. After that I applied by Titebond Melamine Glue the veneer and pressed into a press. The method works very well. Before those works I done a test in two cases - first the veneer applied by Titebond Melamine Glue directly on melamine without any sander and second by the method described on the beggining. In the case when I tried to glue the veneer directly on the melamine, the result was very bad, but in the second test, probably, removing the first layer of melamine, I created a porosity on melamine which has contribute to a very strong adherence between melamine and veneer. So, maybe my experience could help other guys which like DIY. Best regards.
thanks for the great tutorial. I wanted to ask if i have a sort of engrave in the wood panel like engraved shapes or something. will i still be able to veneer it ?
If you want to engrave through the veneer, the answer is yes, it can be done. But the surface below the veneer would be exposed. Most commercially sold veneer is about 1/16” thick, so engraving within the thickness of the veneer is possible, but is very delicate work. You can inlay various pieces of differently colored veneer within a larger veneered area or panel. It can be as simple as a geometric shape or as complicated as an entire picture created from shaped veneer pieces (that technique is called marquetry).
I enjoyed your video. How would I go about matching veneer on an antique piece of furniture and where should I go to purchase it? Thanks .
Great question! First, you will need to find some veneer that matches the species and figure pattern in the veneer you are patching. You can find packs of veneer in our retail locations or on our website. Next, we recommend making a template from thin stock to match with the new veneer. Cut out the shape on the furniture and scrape the substrate clean. When you have the shape of the new veneer matching the shape that you’ve removed from the furniture, you can simply glue it in place with liquid hide glue or white glue, but before you do, determine if the veneer is thicker than the existing veneer or thinner. If you find it to be thinner, you will need to build up the void so the veneer is proud of the surface when glued in place. Scrape or sand it flush. Then, you need to use the remaining “scrap” veneer to test staining and finishing the veneer to match the look of the piece of furniture’s finish. Leave the patch of raw wood until you get a suitable look on the scrap veneer, then stain and finish the veneer patch. You may need to use pore filler to help hide the edges of the patch, but again, you will probably not be able to perfectly hide the patch. An expert furniture restorer with experience might be able to do that, but us mere mortals will need to be satisfied with less than perfection.
You can put pva glue on both sides, let it barely dry, then stick the two sides together with a hot iron.
My guy
I don’t have to watch the vid
@@bencoates787 n
I wonder how the gentleman trimmed the overhang of veneer that is on both sides that are so close together... more planing?
It could be trimmed in many ways, such as a chisel, a veneer saw, a file and sandpaper, or a very sharp shop knife.
Can osb be veneered?
Hi Jayne, oriented strand board is really intended to be building or subfloor sheathing and not a product for woodworking. It has a coarse, uneven surface that will likely telegraph through thin wood veneer. MDF is a better sheet goods choice for veneering. Or use a veneered plywood instead. Either option will provide the super smooth surface you need for high-quality veneering.
@@rockler thank you so much!
بارك الله فيك
Thank you! Super helpfull
Glad to hear it. Thanks for watching!
What's the best way to remove the masking tape residue from the raw veneer?
Hi Chris, when you sand the veneer for finishing you will remove the adhesive residue. You can also scrub it off with some paint thinner and a fine synthetic “scratchy” pad.
Thanks for an excellent video, but I have a question, how to stain already glued veneer? glue spots are all around....
Why stain it at all? Use birch plywood if you feel the need for stain
Where do u buy vaneer big rolls
Hi there, you can buy veneer on our website! You can find it at www.rockler.com/shop?w=wood+veneer or by searching "Wood veneer" at www.rockler.com
Very informative. Thanks.
Thanks a lot!
One question please. How do you get your ply wood perfectly straight thanks?
Using a table saw
Get a table saw yo
How to treat the edges? What about the edges?
The edges of the panel can be treated in a few ways. If the panel is captured in a frame and panel, they can be left uncovered. You can glue solid lumber around the perimeter of the panel and lay the veneer over that edging. This means taking into account trimming the panel to size. You can also use iron on premade veneer tape, or you can make your own iron-on strips. Lastly you could glue a molding or other type of edging around the panel, of the same species as the veneer or a complementary species.
Could you please try applying veneer (single sheet) on a drum? Any wooden drum will do. I need to do it to hide all filled holes and am quite not confident about doing that... Thanks!
Excellent.
Thanks for watching!
This was really helpful. I have to make inset cabinet doors and plan to use veneer and mdf. I’d like to surround the MDF perimeter with a thin band of solid wood, then veneer over the entire substrate. I have no experience whatsoever. Dies this seem like a feesible approach?
How about buying veneered MDF and edge band it yourself with solid wood. I guess this will save both time and money and the result will be same. What did you end up doing then?
Are you using plain wood glue ? Thanks for the video.
Hi Tom, we are using plain wood glue in this video!
this is amazing you should sell these!
I agree with everything except the blue tape???? I use clear tape, why would you not>>>
can you apply venner on a cheap mdf furniture like IKEA malm?
Most wooden looking IKEA furniture is veneered. Mdf is perfect as it's super stable, just need to choose the right adhesive based on the surface you're applying it to.
Thank you .
Thank you
Hi, instead of veneering the bottom could you paint it to seal it? Also how do you trim the edges. I have not had good luck with hand held edge trimmers. Great video thank you
Dont need to veneer the bottom. That's a stupid rumor based on a woodworking magazine. The veneer cant bow any panel as it's expansion and contraction is negligible. Its only the moisture from the glue which can lead to bow. Use other kind of glue like plastic resin or contact cement and you'll never get any bow. (No need to veneer the other side)
flush trim router will get the job done
You can attach a 1/4 inch square, round piece of scrap or plexiglass, or in a pinch, sneak into the kitchen and swipe the cutting board. A larger base will add stability until you get used to it.
great video, thank you
Great video, thanks. What was the "best" glue you mentioned again?
The "best" glue mentioned in the video ("best" being subjective) was titebond wood glue.
WHAT ABOUT THE SIDES?
Really great video! I'm going to veneer the dashboard in my old MGB GT. Do you have any tips for applying veneer to a car dash?
Solid video, great editing and explanations. Not to short or long of a video.
use contact cement. how did it turn out?
Wait... Explain to me why I cannot build a building with UV light?
Super.
I've come here after watching a few videos of people veneering diy speakers. I always wondered if they were using the right technique. I had my doubts. I was right. The videos I've seen they were doing it all wrong.
You cant do this technıcs on large surfaces.
Awesome 👍👍👍
Finished watching the video then ordered some pre veneered mdf sheets
Where do you order these I’m being serious
Hi sar tsis VEENER job my experience 12 hirs
I use veneer for fingerboard
And I for make flamed maple tops or other patterns on cheap guitar bodies 😅
Wow, I thought we would be using some of that repair tape to fix it, I thought it was a feature in all the videos hahahahah!
The cupboards in my kitchen have oak faces, but the side of the cupboards are partical board. Some of the partical board sides are exposed (visible) I purchased veneer to put on the exposed sides of my existing kitchen cupboards there is no easy way to clamp it on.
use contact cement. problem solved.
could you please tell me if you know of a veneer that is not so fragile (doesnt crack or chip ) and is easier to work with..thank you.. great video.
Veneer is also sold in “two ply” varieties of double thickness, making the sheets stiffer, flatter and less prone to breaking.
@@rockler thanks
Everything worked well until my waxed platen transferred wax to my raw wood veneer. Down in the grain. Impossible to stain. A VERY thin coat of wax, rubbed out very well.
ummmmm. when you "wipe the glue into the joint" you are pushing all the glue into the grain of the wood so when you finish it.. you will see all the glue. Having veneered many projects, I can say there is no need to glue the joint, just put it in the press.
Thank you for the feedback. We have passed this along to our video team.
Just use vacuum please!
Not everyone has a vacuum bag setup. This is for those people. 🙌
I stand corrected. Veneer is wood, and Laminate is plastic.
I think i'm just gunna use solid wood now.
Lol
you better get rich then, or have rich clients
Go and inspect some Amish made furniture sometime
The question is... Where to buy veneer to hobby projects? You cant find them in the big box store...
There's usually a higher end woodworking lumber shop. In our neighborhood, it's Ganahl Lumber.
Rockler Woodworking and Hardware
Hi sar Tes bEEner gob my experience 12
Wish you would have covered trimming instead of just glossing over it.
For trimming: Use a light weight trim router, $20-40 dollars. A flush cut bit with bearing on the end. Lightly sand the whole thing and apply sealer and/or stain.