The Paul Sellers’ Mortise & Tenon Method | Paul Sellers
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Paul has developed his own system for cutting mortise and tenon joints using a conventional hand router plane to create perfectly sized mortise and tenons that are accurately aligned. This system will revolutionise the way you think about mortise and tenon joinery.
To see a beginner friendly guide on how to make a mortise and tenon, see our sister site: commonwoodwork...
For more information on these topics, see paulsellers.com or woodworkingmas...
The idea in this presentation everyone is to kick start thinking differently and then working differently.
I think this will change the way I do mortise tenons from here on, could I respectfully ask if I could make the tenon length say 9/16th longer, then cut it off to finish size after the router work, rather than route the last 1/2 inch ?
McAVIT Yourway good idea !
I have been using guides for a while now for perpendicular cuts. I learned it from Charles Neil. He showed how he drilled and parried Mortise before he was able to afford a mortise machine. I have done it that way too.
I now own a bench top mortise machine but I will definitely try this method because sometimes the setup time might just be longer than the actual time used to cut a mortise by hand.
Yes, that is fine, but in my work, and in an upcoming project on masterclasses.com I add enough to the tenon length of the first tenon top make my gauge from. I also always cut two tenons at once so the length of tenons at say 1 1/2" becomes three inches between shoulder lines plus a kerf width and `i get two tenons at once.
The idea of doing 2 two tenons as a single piece and then cutting it in half just blew my mind... :) Thanks for all the amazing work you and your team do on this channel; you're an amazing teacher!
Mr. Sellers - how are you not knighted yet? Your love for woodworking, and the great detail in teaching has made woodworking such an important part of my own life. I appreciate everything you do for us.
knighted? what being a knight has anything to do with it? Paul is a great woodworker, a master at his craft.
But a Knight?
@@beepIL It's um, called a- nevermind
@@mynameisman1254 knights ride horses and swing swords, stop knighting everything Brits! ;)
Avi Hillel I’m American 🤦♂️
@@mynameisman1254 Hi American, I'm joking, nice to meet you
I'm just starting out. The end of this video is why I can't get enough of Paul Sellers. "And it's all yours. You go ahead."
Great tutorial as usual, Paul. I like to make the tenon half an inch longer than finished size. That way you can just cut off the end router support rather than muck about getting down to thickness.
You do not have to have two routers to do this. You can use the one router and reset after the depth lines are marked. In this case you will rough down all of the cheeks and then, when all are roughed down, reset the depth according to the depth line and finish off to depth.
Paul Sellers Dear Paul with all the respect, please let us to use two or even better three hand routers and enjoy this project the most! Cheers
Paul- How did you determine the depth of the Router to make the shoulder markings? Did you take the width of the board, subtract the thickness of the desired tenon, and then divide by 2 to get the depth of the router plane chisel?
The chisel width determines the general size of tenon and mortise. In this method we actually ignore the dead width of the chisel and 1-2mm. In other words we set the router cutting edge to about 1/2 to 1mm shy of dead on so that we leave meat (wood) on the walls of the mortise and the face of the tenon. The last skim with the router surface planes the tenon on both cheeks and the pare cuts with the wider (1") chisel surfaces the inside walls of the mortise by using the guide to reference the face of the chisel as it progresses down into and along the walls.
I see, thank you!
Thanks, Paul. Im starting the workbench project from your book. Now I know I'll get the joints perfect, but I don't have 3 routers. I think I'll use a poor mans routers for the first passes, keep my Stanley set in one place for the entire operation. Another possibility, I could stick a shim to my router base, then peel it off for the final pass.
Sorry Paul, but you shouldn't really encourage palming the chisel when we know it causes scarring of tissues contributing to Carpal Tunnel and believe me I know after two ops and still suffering! I had to say although I respect your work
Great tutorial Paul, thanks mate.
Brilliant - Awesome and Simple but oh so Effective! Makes a novice / wannabe woodworker believe he or she can really do this.
@weh375xen ... AMEN to THAT!!! :-D
You can do this! Practice and practice until it's perfect!
Simple and effective. It works, which is the most important thing. If it offends a "purist". Tough luck.
“I’ll do this one while I’m in the zone”. Legend.
Thank you Paul. That's all I needed..... an excuse to buy a second router plane.
Was thinking exactly the same :)
orbodman only a second?
orbodman .....I've made my decisions, I'm going to buy my third hand router!
It, in fact, is very handy to have three Router planes and three marking gauges when repeating multiple joineries in one project.
Best place to buy router planes online?
nice technique. i will try this. But i was thinking when doing the tenons why not make them longer then needed and then just chop off the end section that was left? quicker and also stops any mistakes that might happen when doing that last section of the tenon (router slightly tipping etc. Any thoughts?
I believe it is a good idea. But you would have to make sure your tenon piece is longer than needed at least by the same extra length of the tenon and longer.
Good idea, or place two pieces end to end and do two tenons if the router is wide enough.
Once you have too marking, cutting then you will not need to cut the tenon off.
Love it.
Thanks Paul, for all the fantastic videos and sharing of techniques and knowledge. I have reduced my machines to just a bandsaw as hand tool woodworking is so enjoyable.
Thank you for the tip and for your kind comment!
Aldi chisels go on sale 9/13 in North Texas! $6.99.
can they be ordered long distance? Or do you have to pick them up in person?
Snowwalker As far as I know you have to go to the store!
That's what I thought, thanks, No Aldi store within at least 300 miles from me.
David Oakes For at least 8 years around here!
Hmm. We have them in OK, but never saw any tools....
You're such a legend for sharing these techniques, Paul.
It's not what you earn that makes a man, it's what you give. Super generous. Merci.
You sir, are a world heritage treasure! Thanks for all you do! And thanks to your son and team of videographers for the outstanding footage!
Have you moved to a new shop? It looks and sounds so empty!
Not yet. But, we are packing up ready to move to a new workshop (just a few miles down the road). I'll be posting about our move on Facebook and Instagram soon. Follow me for updates:
facebook.com/paul.a.j.sellers/instagram.com/paul.a.j.sellers/
How I wish I could quit my job move to UK and just work in your shop. That's all I want to do, learn from you and do good woodwork.
every damn time I watch one of your instructional videos I learn 100 new things. Blown away, again.
A joy too watch thank you.
I've tried it, and I love it! I've struggled with mortise and tenons, and this method made them so much better. Still not perfect, but with some practice I think I'll have it. Thanks for sharing!
When I started wood working as a kid, my dad told me wood working is using common sense to work things out, this method proves he was right,
Great video. And I've been woodworking for 20 years and still learning from videos like this, it's what it's all about.👍
Mr. Sellers, you are a genius! You have opened the door for me to a world of working wood "unplugged". I have two of your great books ( "Essential Woodworking Hand Tools" and "Working Wood") and the DVD set "Using and Sharpening Essential Woodworking Hand Tools". I cannot thank you enough.
Amazing as always, Paul!
Thank you for passing on techniques such as this with such dedication to simplicity and quality.
Cheers from Brazil.
Thank you Paul, that was unquestionably the most valuable and impressive example of ingenuity and skill that I have ever seen . The longest video I have ever watched , and shall watch again.
You have given all of us out 'ere something priceless
The joinery is amazing, Paul. Thank you for making it less scary for we mere mortals! 😊
Bloody brilliant, reminds me of one of my lecturers who was another master of his craft, I felt like I was back at college learning brickwork for a while. thanks Paul.
This is a superb method for the people like me I can never make tenon or mortise straight ever I will definitely try this method thanks for sharing this video
Just an observation, Paul...If you moved your shoulder line back 1/2", you could just cut that last 1/2" part off instead of going back to clean it up after.
Yes, I know all of these offerings, but what if you don't have that half inch. Most people will work that out for themselves I am sure. I actually cut a double length tenon with 1 1/2 extra in length and then cut the tenon half way along. We cover that in our masterclasses videos.
And if you have a long piece, you can also make a double tenon in the middle and then cut it in two.
But sometimes you don't have any spare wood, and being frugal is always a good thing in my opinion.
Holy crap! That alone is worth the price of admission.
“For the rest of your life”. ‘Love that. ‘Preciate it, sir, thank you.
The first time I used a guide to parry something perpendicular my woodworking became 100% better. It's really hard to do free handed and the walls are so much crisper. I think if I would have learned or thought of this technique I wouldn't have even bothered to have bought a mortising machine.
Just saying keep up the good work I love how youtube can bring you into a person's workshop and see just how other people do things and keeping an open mind to it.
simply beautiful paul .you are awesome.love your videos from the USA wish i lived closer,i would take your classes.
Arthrur Jackson same here.
Arthrur Jackso
He says "I'm going to use a router" and I'm wondering where is the DeWalt or Porter Cable? Imagine making joints without wearing a sawdust mask and hearing protection? How civilized! I'm sold! Now I just need to buy 300 hand tools :)
This is great, but I really thought you were simply going to cut off the end with the level shoulders on it, and reveal you’d made allowance for this when measuring out the length of your tenon! Think that’s what I’ll do!
Love your work Paul . I recently used a similar method to do a 25 Inch scarf joint on a sailing mast and it was something I learnt from you a wile back I just applied it to a different application . I have recently finished another Christmas star in another table top this time in teak wood and spotted gum and spruce similar to the one in the photo I sent you some time back You must of liked it as you have placed it in your photo section on your web site . This last table was for a client on a 7 Million dollar yacht the owner was ecstatic and said it was a work of art so I thank you for what you have achieved in being able to come up with simple but effective ways of teaching people all over the globe the fine art of Joinery I'm looking forward to re-joining your paid section once financers allow me to do so .
I never got the chance to spend time with my grandpas before they passed away. I wish I could have learned from them the same way I'm learning from you. Thanks gramps!
A wonderful idea, simple. I'm trying that this weekend with a bit of ash. Can't wait.
Mate that's fantastic Paul. Thanks heaps for putting in the time to teach!
Wow! You have made thee seemingly Impossible, Simple!! Wonderful video, thanks very much.
I had created a tenon and then watched this video, tenon scrapped and redone, I even purchased a small had router as my mortise and tenon is for a hand mirror. Guess what one perfect tenon, your videos are brilliant and this method is the total opposite of what I was taught at school nearly 50 years ago. Hope you are going to do a dovetail version.
"and it's all yours, go ahead and practice it, and you will have tenon making down for the rest of your life" this is what i love about these videos. There is a tradition of master craftsmen being closemouthed and secretive, but here one of the best just wishes to pass on the craft to those who care to learn. Thank . you.
I have only recently discovered these posts by Paul Sellers. Just an absolute pleasure to watch and learn.
What make of Router Chisel is that old red one you're using for the roughing routing?
Also what's the benefit of the wood plate on the bottom of the Stanley No.71 open mouth router plane?
The right tools for the job and the right attitude all combined with the skill of a master. A joy to watch. Thanks a lot.
It’s very impressive that you can show a new method in 2017 for a very old joinery technique. Your craft is superb, keep up the good work.
Everyone DOT JUMP ON ME but...and this is an honest question from a retired mechanic in the wood hobby for 18 months, would not power tools make a more accurate joint and do it at the very least 20 times faster? I am working out of a newly built 10X12 shed with close to 10=15k in recently purchased power tools, almost every imaginable tool in the industry. Well, every tool purchase I could convince my wife I needed.
Simply beautiful work. Looking forward to trying this on my first workbench!
Wonderful stuff. Never ever tire of watching Paul..
Paul, love your videos! I'm having trouble finding routers like you use in the video. I'm in the US, can you tell me the name of the manufacturer? Thanks!!
Thank you Paul, for sharing your knowledge. I have always wondered what kind of paint the Stanley No71 routers had, could you tell me something about it?
Brilliant & now I can't wait to try a Mortise & Tenon my self
Thank you Oh so much Mister Sellers. You've actually managed to make me think I might succeed in doing this !
An excellent woodworker but these sycophantic comments are ridiculous. .
5 yrs and no71's are still expensive.... The Sellers effect is longer lasting than any political promises. Special thanks to your team in solving the problem.
That’s freaking awesome!
Paul reminds me of Norm Abrahms but without all of the machinery
Great video - Not many of us have a 'Granny's tooth' router though so I'll have to find another way. A problem is advertisements - I see 2 of these at start and every time I stop/rewind etc. watching via Firestick on TV.
Amazing way to keep the edges of the mortise square.
Brilliant method. Thank you. Could you possibly cut the tenon pieces slightly longer and then lop off the whole excess end?
Thank You !
This is such an innovative method for making a beautiful mortise and tenon joint.
Hi Paul, In another your Mortice & Tenon video, you mentioned that you always do the Mortice first. Yet in this video you start with the Tenon. Is there a particular reason for this? BTW. Love your videos.
I've watched this several times and it is solid gold. Thanks Paul.
Another rippa video Paul. Thanks so much mate for sharing your treasure trove. Just one thing, with the video, is that the sub-titles are often inserted/added, exactly over where the piece is held in the vice, and where the 'action' is. Black rectangle with white type, can't see the process. Cheers mate.
Wild enthusiastic applause. This is why I need to upgrade from my poor man’s router. Come to think of it though, my poor man’s router does hold its adjustment very very well (I was very forceful getting it in there…) so if you don’t have two routers a poor man’s router can be useful for the finishing depth, and a more adjustable router to the roughing work.
Dagnabbit, Mr. Sellers, because of you I have a router plane; now it looks like I'll have to get another and, while I'm at it, a set of a few mortise chisels (or at least firmer) to keep the pair of planes company. (Yes it truly is impossible to have enough tools, space to keep them in, and/or, especially, enough money to afford it all. But at least the work keeps us out of trouble. and it looks like this time I'll be making a router plane instead of buying one, as well as adding a wider wooden base to the one I have.)
Just shows you don't need all the chop saws and mortise machines to do fantastic job. No noise from machines top job
Would you mind providing some information on those hand router gadgets you used, please? I'd be very interested in looking in to purchasing a couple of them !! Thanks for a great video !!
Really good informational video well explained however, for future videos maybe consider . . . 1) have the item you are talking about in view & in focus. Too much of the fine detail was missed as the item was either ‘out of shot’ above the camera or when ‘in shot’ was out of focus. Meant as ,constructive comment, as overall your video was really helpful so thank you👍
That’s perfect , Greatness over Great , God bless you , we are grateful for you sharing with us your knowledge
This method is okay for same size stock. It wouldn't work the same way if the Tenon stock was smaller than the Mortice stock.
a true joiner would make his own mallet. Very unprofessional using a nylon hammer. I have never in 55 years bought or used a nylon hammer.
Sorry to be a plum but I don't like your new workshop backdrop. It's cold and dull, not like you or the reason I subscribed. The authenticity and heritage of your many tools etc is part of what you represent (for me at least). Such an influence on my life and now not chuffed 😞
Nice technique, but it would have been nice if you would have explained at the start that you were making a jig to guide the chisel while chopping mortises.
When cleaning shavings from the bottom of the hole I use an old screwdriver as the scraping action seems to blunt a sharp chisel quite quickly .
Are there router planes with 2 depth stops? One final one and a threaded one? That would solve the problem of having 2 routers and accidentally overshooting with the 'roughing' router. You do the marking with the router plane set with the max. depth stop. And then you use the threaded stop (wheel) to slowly sneak up to that max. depth.
Beautifully planed & executed. Elegant in its simplicity! A bow to thank the Master.
Hello everyone, would this method work on softwoods, like fir or pine? The chisel tends to wonder around with those, in my experience…
I don't think I understand; if the guide is 1 mil away from the side of the mortise, and you keep the upper part of your chisel registered against it while chopping, wouldn't that mean the lower part of your chisel is at an angle, as again, the side of the mortise is 1 mil from the guide but your chisel is resting on the guide.
Agreed that is the best way I have seen to make a mortise & tenon joint by hand! It would result in better quality hardwood doors.
It looks great, but in many cases, you will be dealing with rebates, mouldings, asymmetry of the tenon position, and different rail and stile widths. Not clear how the method works then. And it's not so easy if the the tenon is not full width.
I have been a cabinet maker for nearly 50 years and have never seen any body use this method far to labour intensive, ok for hobbyist but you wouldn’t make a living using this method
A suggestion - butt up againt another piece of wood levelled with the top of the workpiece. That way you can plane away the entire tenon in one operation with support on both sides. If you clamp both pieces to a support below you can be confident they will not move relative to each other in the vise.
Lovely to watch you work - you make it look effortless. It's only when one tries it oneself that one realizes what an artist you are: how much of what you do is directed at making everything you do exactly what you are trying to do.
Paul... How would you go about using your Tenon guide technique for putting a 1 x 4 into a 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 ?
Do you create a new jig for each joint? I understand you can't use the rail as a jig because the chisel won't fit. If you make a jig and then tenon the rail, aren't there very small differences between the rail tenon and the jig tenon?
If the wood cost isn't that much you could cut the tenon a little longer (1/2 inch)and then just cut the tip once you finished planing the first time. Or am I missing some point?
Hello Paul, great tutorial! Could you tell me more about the router plane. Which brand amare them? Where could i buy one(one line i write from italy) thank you
So great! I'm glad having stumbled upon your channel, cheers!
Brilliant! I wish I'd learned this in wood shop so many years ago. Amazingly, we were not provided with hand routers like Paul is using. I'd never seen these until recently. Trying to saw the tenons with a back-saw was the best we learned. The keys to this method:
1. proper millwork of the stock
2. NOT adjusting the finish router
3. Keeping chisels very, very sharp
+Bill Crowell
Saw and chisel skills are more important. The exact same skills can then be applied to using Planes and mortice sets.
Some people drill out the bulk of the material. I never saw you do this .Any reason?
Hi Paul, What can you recommend with your technique if I only have one router plane?
I so appreciate the gift you give me. I do worry that using your fists as hammers will come back to haunt you in the form of arthritis.
You are the best! I am learning a lot with you. Thanks from Brazil.
Good but 30 minutes for a mortise and tenon joint isn't realistic for anything other than a hobby.
This will only work if width of the 2 pieces of wood are perfectly equal. If the tennon piece is bigger the tennon won't fit in and it the mortice piece is thicker the mortise will be to thick. I hand plane and shoot my wood so don't think it will work for me, but awesome video non the less
When you're making the jig, couldn't you just one cheek? It seems like the other is not necessary.
would you possibly be able to make a video on how you would re grind and sharpen a router plane blade I am a joinery technician in a college an I have not sharpened one before and some are in a poor state thank you
Happy I'm not the only one with a battered old workbench, would hate to have to watch every little ding and saw cut I'd put in it.
you should never hit the chisel with the heel of your hand. It bruises very easy. You should know that.
Paul could you add onto this technique by cutting the total tenon piece 1 inch longer than needed work the cheeks down as shown THEN use a saw to register against the end of the tenon where you left it proud to saw to perfect length
Using the heal of your hand to hit the chisel is correct. Many people use the palm and it scares me. There are nerves in your hand. I have seen more than once people permsnently paralyse their hand by hitting a spanner or something with their palm. The hand is not a mallet!
Couldn’t you use the mortise piece in lieu of the two end pieces that you have to remove later? Clamp it all up on the bench top in dogs and chisel/route it to perfection?