Hello, even though this video is a couple of years old now I want to thank you for putting it together and the info you are presenting. I'm studying for my ASE brakes test and you finally helped me clarify the difference in the proportioning and metering valves. I've been looking for a way to sperate the two mentally and I finally got it when you said pressure reducing valve! Thank you!
Nice, thank you for that tutorial and your willingness to share your knowledge with others . God bless you also keep up the good work. The world needs more people like you.
Big Ron learned more about these combo valves in 12 min. than in the last 20 years Good Job . by the way I'm a Ram man myself got two 2001 ram 2500 4x4 & 2014 1500 4x4
Big Ron you need to get some of our locking hubs!! Check out our videos on our locking hub kits you will ABSOLUTELY love them! Check out some of the videos on our channel under the Dodge Hubs playlist! Call us if you have any questions 817-429-0105 we are always happy to help!
That was the best spiel I’ve ever heard that clarified a lot of things I had question I’m glad you’re still people to come in since I’ve been through it and use your experience and bring into the foreground
We appreciate the compliment Christopher! Please share our new website therammaninc.com/ which is loaded with more helful videos. We are slowly but surely updating the website with new products each week.
Solid video. I leaned lots. Always wanted to spend more time on this. Question: any issues cutting in a manual Valve or what I call `bias`valve between the proportioning valve exit to rear and connection to existing rear line? Brake stands is one reason to do this. To test tires. To burn up tires presumably you`d adjust the manual bias valve to run 100% of the pressure to the front breaks and none to the rear. Recently lost master cylinder and booster so replacing those 2. The adjustable bias valve has 3/16 in and out so I need to convert from 3/16 to 1/4"line for the rears,. Haven't bothered with rear discs but maybe I should. Any suggestion? Okay cutting in manual value after master cylinder and before rear brake? Line would be coming out 3 /16
At around 6:40 talking about the metering valve you described the brake lockup condition exactly opposite of what EVERYONE on the net says, ie, "if the rears lockup the back of the vehicle spins around so the metering valve limits the pressure to the rears cyls. (but also allows the rears to engage first)" I have a 4 whl. drum vehicle whose rears did and do virtually no work at all from the factory and nose-dives and the front drums are raging hot with normal braking, rears are basically at ambient temp. no matter how they're adjusted. I'll go to your website and maybe give you a call or email. Good video.
I have referred a handful of people to this video. I can tell you know your stuff. I'm glad to have ABS nowadays. Any brakes can lock up easy in bad weather lmao.
Thank you for the great video.. I like it really... I have daewoo nubira 2006, i converted the rear brakes to disk brakes instead of drum brake... Do i still need valves on the brakes lines?
When you have disc front and back, you want even flow on your brake lines (regular distribution block). It's only when you have front disc / rear drum that sometimes requires a proportioning valve (depending on how the car behaves in hard braking).
so can I retain my original pressure reducing valve & put an adjustable valve(the black one shown) in the line to the rear. $ wheel disc brake conversion. 67 Barracuda 15" x 8" wheels, 235 60 15 tyres?
I have a 1974 Dodge B100 the driver side caliper is locking, I have replaced both front calipers and brake hoses. Can the prop valve get stuck and not let the fluid return to the master cilynder ?
Prop valves are NOT usually the culprit. Watch the two videos at the link titled "Brakes Dragging": therammaninc.com/videos/Trouble-Shooting-Videos-142
If it's a brass or aluminum valve body, we might be able to rebuild your original for you. Email us some photos of your valve. therammaninc.com/products/Brake-Component-Rebuilds-143
recently ( last week) i converted my 68 fury power drum car to disc on the front with a 72 fury set up. i notice the rotors are a little hard to turn by hand with the wheel off, i didnt change the master cylinder from the drum master cyl to a disc cyl yet but im going to, would that take care of the rotor not wanting to spin easily ? and should i change the prop valve? and if so, should i use one like the combo valve/ta one you showed in the video?
Hello Aaron. Email us some photos of your master cylinder to (info@TheRamManINC.com) so we can help you. We suspect it's residual valves in the master cylinder.
Hello Aaron. Your master cylinder is a 'drum brake' unit and has check valves behind the brass seats in the line ports. These valves maintain a constant 5-10 psi on the wheel cylinders for faster drum shoe engagement. SOLUTIONS: 1. We have a special 15/16 Master Cylinder that bolts right up to the original Bendix Single Diaphragm Booster that you have. Not just any master cylinder will bolt up because of the Booster’s pushrod. AND your master cylinder MUST have the correct bore depth in the rear piston chamber so that they match regarding power distribution…….nothing will work better! 2. You can also just simply remove the check valves from the brake line ports of your existing master cylinder. Either one of the two scenarios will most likely fix your problem.
Ramman: can a stuck p-valve ball cause low brake pedal? my 97 corrolla pedal goes to the floor but does stop. (i replaced master cyl, adju drum and diskpads,bled system....all that done by a master mechanic and car builder i'eve knowm my whole life....he's stumped on the low pedal prob.....my only componet left to replace is the p-valve....you think that my be the prob?
Valves are almost NEVER the problem. However, too much pedal travel (with a front disc / rear drum setup) is almost always due to a problem with the rear drum setup. Worn drums, worn brake shoes, not adjusted properly, etc are usually the culprit. Most people don't realize that even a small amount of wear past the drum's wear specifications, can have an exponential effect on pedal travel. That's why, many years ago, you could buy brakes shoes that were slightly thicker than the normal specs, to compensate for drum wear. Jack the rear end of your car up, get a buddy to help you gently press the brakes while you observe the behavior of the rear wheels braking and simultaneously communicate with your buddy on how much pedal travel there is. Then pull the drums and do the same thing again....is one side acting differently from the other (one side braking sooner)? How far does the pedal travel before the shoes engage with the drums? What's happening with the wheel cylinder pistons? These are all the things that can be the culprit to your pedal travel. Once you are able to see with your own eyes what is going on when he pushes on that brake pedal, you'll probably discover the cause of your pedal travel problem.
THERAMMAN01 thx for the reply but we did all that we have a lift to to do thorough checks for leaks as well. nice to know the P-valve is probably not the prob because that is a spaghetti factory in there!
I like the way he presented his info. very simple with lots of facts. very well done.
Best and most informative video regarding brakes. Very good teacher !
Keep preaching the truth, Brother.
Hello, even though this video is a couple of years old now I want to thank you for putting it together and the info you are presenting. I'm studying for my ASE brakes test and you finally helped me clarify the difference in the proportioning and metering valves. I've been looking for a way to sperate the two mentally and I finally got it when you said pressure reducing valve! Thank you!
Nice, thank you for that tutorial and your willingness to share your knowledge with others . God bless you also keep up the good work. The world needs more people like you.
Thanks man, you explained it really well.
I really enjoyed your presentation! Thank you!
Big Ron learned more about these combo valves in 12 min. than in the last 20 years Good Job . by the way I'm a Ram man myself got two 2001 ram 2500 4x4 & 2014 1500 4x4
Big Ron you need to get some of our locking hubs!! Check out our videos on our locking hub kits you will ABSOLUTELY love them! Check out some of the videos on our channel under the Dodge Hubs playlist! Call us if you have any questions 817-429-0105 we are always happy to help!
That was the best spiel I’ve ever heard that clarified a lot of things I had question I’m glad you’re still people to come in since I’ve been through it and use your experience and bring into the foreground
Great, informative video. Hope you never stop.
Thanks my friend. Feel free to let your friends know about us. You can visit our new website at therammaninc.com/
Thank you for the video. Helps on the ASE brake test
Now that's a guy who seems to know what he's talking about. And he's funny too. Awesome video.
Wayne's awesome. love watching his videos. bought a couple things from Ramman already
Love your knowledge and enthusiasm... friend!
Awesome video. You just taught me a bunch. Thanks
Nice explanation. Thank you!
Thanks Peter. Be sure to subscribe if you haven't already to keep up with out latest videos.
Our new website is therammaninc.com/
Very informative you go girl.
Well done thank you.
You kick ass, man.
We appreciate the compliment Christopher! Please share our new website therammaninc.com/ which is loaded with more helful videos. We are slowly but surely updating the website with new products each week.
Awesome ..Thank you for info ..helped me understand how the valves work. Keep it up..
Solid video. I leaned lots. Always wanted to spend more time on this. Question: any issues cutting in a manual Valve or what I call `bias`valve between the proportioning valve exit to rear and connection to existing rear line? Brake stands is one reason to do this. To test tires. To burn up tires presumably you`d adjust the manual bias valve to run 100% of the pressure to the front breaks and none to the rear. Recently lost master cylinder and booster so replacing those 2. The adjustable bias valve has 3/16 in and out so I need to convert from 3/16 to 1/4"line for the rears,. Haven't bothered with rear discs but maybe I should. Any suggestion? Okay cutting in manual value after master cylinder and before rear brake? Line would be coming out 3 /16
Thanks for the Video yes it was very helpful.
He is ausome keep up the great work..whell explained
At around 6:40 talking about the metering valve you described the brake lockup condition exactly opposite of what EVERYONE on the net says, ie, "if the rears lockup the back of the vehicle spins around so the metering valve limits the pressure to the rears cyls. (but also allows the rears to engage first)" I have a 4 whl. drum vehicle whose rears did and do virtually no work at all from the factory and nose-dives and the front drums are raging hot with normal braking, rears are basically at ambient temp. no matter how they're adjusted. I'll go to your website and maybe give you a call or email. Good video.
Brilliant video. Thank you.
Thank you RamMan, this was very helpful!
Awesome video , very informative and Well said , Loved it , Mopar to Ya !
Thanks. Good info.
Good video, detailed information. Was actually thinking about buying the thing.
Pre thought presentation here! Long enough to get the point across and short enough that you end up wanting More. 👍🇺🇸🤙😃✌️
I have referred a handful of people to this video. I can tell you know your stuff. I'm glad to have ABS nowadays. Any brakes can lock up easy in bad weather lmao.
GREAT INFO!
Thank you for the great video.. I like it really... I have daewoo nubira 2006, i converted the rear brakes to disk brakes instead of drum brake... Do i still need valves on the brakes lines?
When you have disc front and back, you want even flow on your brake lines (regular distribution block). It's only when you have front disc / rear drum that sometimes requires a proportioning valve (depending on how the car behaves in hard braking).
Excellent
Excellent!
thank you
Great video bro
thank you for the info
Bravo!
pure gold
so can I retain my original pressure reducing valve & put an adjustable valve(the black one shown) in the line to the rear. $ wheel disc brake conversion. 67 Barracuda 15" x 8" wheels, 235 60 15 tyres?
I have a 1974 Dodge B100 the driver side caliper is locking, I have replaced both front calipers and brake hoses. Can the prop valve get stuck and not let the fluid return to the master cilynder ?
Prop valves are NOT usually the culprit. Watch the two videos at the link titled "Brakes Dragging":
therammaninc.com/videos/Trouble-Shooting-Videos-142
I'm subscribed, now.
I need to order this part. Can you help me find one for my Suzuki
If it's a brass or aluminum valve body, we might be able to rebuild your original for you. Email us some photos of your valve.
therammaninc.com/products/Brake-Component-Rebuilds-143
on my 2002 dodge dakota slt 4.7 v8
Give us a call Anthony.......we can probably rebuild that valve for you.
therammaninc.com/
817-429-0105
recently ( last week) i converted my 68 fury power drum car to disc on the front with a 72 fury set up. i notice the rotors are a little hard to turn by hand with the wheel off, i didnt change the master cylinder from the drum master cyl to a disc cyl yet but im going to, would that take care of the rotor not wanting to spin easily ? and should i change the prop valve? and if so, should i use one like the combo valve/ta one you showed in the video?
Hello Aaron. Email us some photos of your master cylinder to (info@TheRamManINC.com) so we can help you. We suspect it's residual valves in the master cylinder.
Hello Aaron. Your master cylinder is a 'drum brake' unit and has check valves behind the brass seats in the line ports. These valves maintain a constant 5-10 psi on the wheel cylinders for faster drum shoe engagement.
SOLUTIONS:
1. We have a special 15/16 Master Cylinder that bolts right up to the original Bendix Single Diaphragm Booster that you have. Not just any master cylinder will bolt up because of the Booster’s pushrod. AND your master cylinder MUST have the correct bore depth in the rear piston chamber so that they match regarding power distribution…….nothing will work better!
2. You can also just simply remove the check valves from the brake line ports of your existing master cylinder.
Either one of the two scenarios will most likely fix your problem.
Ramman: can a stuck p-valve ball cause low brake pedal? my 97 corrolla pedal goes to the floor but does stop. (i replaced master cyl, adju drum and diskpads,bled system....all that done by a master mechanic and car builder i'eve knowm my whole life....he's stumped on the low pedal prob.....my only componet left to replace is the p-valve....you think that my be the prob?
Valves are almost NEVER the problem. However, too much pedal travel (with a front disc / rear drum setup) is almost always due to a problem with the rear drum setup. Worn drums, worn brake shoes, not adjusted properly, etc are usually the culprit. Most people don't realize that even a small amount of wear past the drum's wear specifications, can have an exponential effect on pedal travel. That's why, many years ago, you could buy brakes shoes that were slightly thicker than the normal specs, to compensate for drum wear.
Jack the rear end of your car up, get a buddy to help you gently press the brakes while you observe the behavior of the rear wheels braking and simultaneously communicate with your buddy on how much pedal travel there is. Then pull the drums and do the same thing again....is one side acting differently from the other (one side braking sooner)? How far does the pedal travel before the shoes engage with the drums? What's happening with the wheel cylinder pistons? These are all the things that can be the culprit to your pedal travel. Once you are able to see with your own eyes what is going on when he pushes on that brake pedal, you'll probably discover the cause of your pedal travel problem.
THERAMMAN01
thx for the reply but we did all that we have a lift to to do thorough checks for leaks as well. nice to know the P-valve is probably not the prob because that is a spaghetti factory in there!